Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: 07R1LSR on February 16, 2020, 06:24:53 PM
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Searched the forum and didn't come up with much. Does anyone know the requirements for the chain master link type? Curious if it is a scrutinized item or if any master link will work.
Thanks again!
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I always liked the rivet type, but any type is allowed I believe... if you use a clip, try to seal it on.
:cheers:
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Thanks again Stainless!
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After 50 years of Dragracing (8 second turbo bikes) and now almost 15 years LandSpeed (200mph bikes),, I have "always" used links, and "never" had a failure,,
Always ensure the c clips are not stretched, and always wipe the outer link surface and clip with Shellite before applying a sealent
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As stay'tee says, clean the master clip and side plate well with any solvent and seal it with Goop (Shoegoo, plumbers Goop, etc.)! I actually came back from a run with the clip missing and the pins worn from hitting the chain guard, but the side plate was still intact held only with the Goop. Had to cut the Goop off to take the side plate off.
Tom
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always wipe the outer link surface and clip with Shellite before applying a sealent
For the Yanks - Shellite is what we refer to as Naphtha.
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Lost clips too often, press fit side plates never moved thankfully , we only use rivet links now
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Rivet links it is!
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I always use clips BUT I do silicon the clip AND paint the the clip/silicon with high visibility paint. Never lost one, yet.
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One way to keep the clip on is to clean the link real good, apply a dab of JB weld to the side plate while making sure there is good coverage, installing the clip, and smearing on a little bit more JB. The clip is on permanent so the master link is removed by pushing the pins out from the other side of the chain. A new master link is needed each time the chain is installed.
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I always use clips BUT I do silicon the clip AND paint the the clip/silicon with high visibility paint. Never lost one, yet.
I guess the hi-vis paint makes them easier to find on the salt.... :evil:
Over the last 40 years we have only had one clip disappear... the chain stayed together because the plate had to be pressed on the link... that was 20 years ago... never had the problem again because we switched to rivet style... yes the are one time use, but you don't really need to break the chain a lot.
Have never been able to make a chain last more than one season anyway... :cheers:
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Have never been able to make a chain last more than one season anyway...
This. The first part to rust, and the worst rust on the whole bike. New ones are only $30 for my bike so I just replace every year. This year I think I will try dipping the new one in paraffin.
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Have never been able to make a chain last more than one season anyway...
This. The first part to rust, and the worst rust on the whole bike. New ones are only $30 for my bike so I just replace every year. This year I think I will try dipping the new one in paraffin.
We switched from Silkolene, an excellent chain lube, to spray-on Chain Wax on our Roadster and our chain never rusts; less messy, too. Having said that, we still view chains as a consumable and replace them often.
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We have had several seasons from a chain, but it requires remembering to remove it from the bike , cleaning and lubing then storing in a ziplock bag
shortest life we had was less than a meeting on a non oring chain, no way could we keep it lubricated , friction reduction of non o ring was not worth the short life
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Yes... quality chain... we stretch cheap chains too fast...
Always pull them off, clean them thoroughly, oil them and throw them in a zip lock with extra oil...
Pull them out the next year, notice they are stiff and rusty... throw them away and put on a new one. The O-ring and X-ring seem to lock in the salt and lock out the oil...
We can make them run 3 races as long as they are SpeedWeek, World of Speed and World Finals the same year... otherwise they seem to have too much opportunity to rust
:cheers:
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After the event I always remove the chain and wash it down with kerosene, then boil it in chain wax, leaving it in the wax until the next event where I then have to reboil the wax to extract the chain,, at a event I have never had to apply lubricant, and the chain lasts four to five years,,
530 RK Drag racing non o ring chain, on a solid rear end, where its not subjected to various load (suspenshion) conditions 8-)
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Duke and I run a non "0" ring chain made for drag racing and we have had great luck with it. Right now it is in a large bowl filled with Gibbs oil and has been there for the last several months. I removed and cleaned the chain when we got back from World of Speed and dropped it into the Gibbs oil. I have had good luck with Gibbs oil for greatly reducing corrosion and lubing the chain. We will probably buy a second chain, also non "0" ring, for next year as we are making some changes to the gearing.
Rex
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I always use clips BUT I do silicon the clip AND paint the the clip/silicon with high visibility paint. Never lost one, yet.
I guess the hi-vis paint makes them easier to find on the salt.... :evil:
LOL! I guess that's true too ... I use it so I can easily verify that I haven't lost it ..... lol8