Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: Paul P on October 09, 2018, 04:17:02 PM
-
I was a rookie this year at Speed Week 2018. I bought a car that had a proven track record and spent almost a year getting it ready for my rookie attempts. I had great success with the car and couldn't be happier with it but (you all know what is coming) I want to go faster in 2019 so I am upgrading the motor for more power. Now I have built a lot of old muscle cars over the years and I know the first issue you will deal with is overheating. More power will equal more heat. Simple thermodynamics. My poor mans data logger (a GoPro pointed at the gauges during a run) tells me that I am at 220 degrees on water and about 210 oil temp when I throw the chute with my old setup. I could easily live with those numbers but I hope to bump the power about 20% with better head flow, a better cam, and more boost on the turbo. I am running an F motor with a fairly stock aluminum radiator with an electric fan and mechanical pump. Here are a few questions:
1. Anyone running Evans Coolant? I am thinking it will help but would like to hear from people with experience before I spent $50/gallon.
2. I want to add a reservoir/tank to increase the water volume. Just give it more water to to try to heat up.
3. Oil cooler? Couldn't hurt I'm thinking but will it really have an effect on engine temp to a great extent.
4. I think the electric fan is a waste of time unless you need it to cool between runs but then I need an electric water pump (I do this between runs in drag racing, run the pump and fan with engine off).
-
Evans is glycol based - SCTA-BNI won't let you use it.
-
Add an oil cooler and rig water spray bars to mist water into the radiator and oil cooler when running....
with adjustments, you can find the perfect flow rate to keep the temps where you want them...
At the Reno Air Races, this is what keeps the temps under control at 200 % power levels using only original radiators and oil coolers...
Robert
Red Baron Race Team
-
Well Evans Coolant is out. Thanks Milwaukee.
Hey TheBaron can you give any details of the spray bars (manufacturer info) and what type of pump are you using? Any details would be appreciated. My air intake is under the hood so the motor would be eating the water too. Not sure what effect, if any, that would have on performance.
I did leave out one detail, I am running an air/water intercooler for the turbo. It uses 3 bags of ice per run. Tank holds a total of 15 gallons and the water in the tank after a run is lukewarm.
-
Add an oil cooler and rig water spray bars to mist water into the radiator and oil cooler when running....
with adjustments, you can find the perfect flow rate to keep the temps where you want them...
At the Reno Air Races, this is what keeps the temps under control at 200 % power levels using only original radiators and oil coolers...
Robert
Red Baron Race Team
Those WW2 engines are my idol. Most Bonneville racers [self included] still haven't applied some of their tech. 2 stage supercharging
even 3 for the German engines and shifting the blowers and more.
I have used water injection but have had a problem with water etching the cylinders. We made 100 hp more at a lower rpm with
water inj. But stopped after problems.
From what I've read the WW2 engines used an additive to prevent corrosion but can't find info. They even used salt water in the South
Pacific from what I've read. That had to be real corrosive :-o
Does the Red Baron use this additive?
JL222
-
210 F oil temp? That's what my Ram EcoDiesel runs with the cruise set at 70 mph. The ECU starts pulling boost when the oil temps are above 260 F. And doesn't give you a warning until 270 F.
-
Like I said, I'm happy with the current numbers but with the increase in power I'm sure those numbers will go up fast. One other piece of information about the oil temp., when I hit the timing mark for the last mile of the run the oil temp was about 150. During that last mile that needle was going up very fast. With the added power I fear I may start the last mile at 170 or 180 and I think it will get too hot. I am more concerned with the water temp. That's where I think the trouble will come.
-
This might be a dumb question Paul but what RPM are you reaching?.
Maybe the water pump is cavitating?.
-
The highest rpm I was turning was 7100 although I was targeting 8000. Didn't have enough power to continue to pull past the 7100 mark but the new motor upgrades and a change in the gearing will put me at my target. At least that's the plan. The motor builder has extensive experience with type of build and I am using one of their billet pumps. He is confident the water pump is not an issue.
-
Hello all,
from memory, here are a few recollections concerning temps and H20...
Water soluble oil was added to the spray-bar water to protect the aircraft fuel pumps and plumbing from the corrosion and friction effects of not pumping gasoline.
Ratio was about 80:1 I think ,,,one quart in 20 gallons of water....
Aircraft spray bars we fabricated from "streamline" tubing and we used commercial spray nozzles designed for crop spraying...
Round tubing in an X pattern is a good place to start...
Oil Temps: with mineral based oils, temps under 225 degrees F are fine,,,,225 to 250 are ok but the oil is oxidizing and should be changed more often than normal,,,,
Temps above 250 degrees are "cooking" the oil, breaking it down rapidly, and it should be changed immediately....
High horsepower engine need heavier weight oils if operating at high oil temps...
Mario Andretti won his first Indy with the oil temp running 300 to 350 F for the entire race....He said he was expecting it to blow any second, but it never did,,,go figure !
Robert "Smitty" Smith
-
There could be more help if you say what class as some close off the front of the vehicle. Many of us do not use a radiator of any kind even if the vehicle must have one in the stock location. I have made water spray bars for trucks out of metal tubing with tiny holes spraying onto radiator using a windshield washer pump and tank very successfully a gallon goes a long way. A fine mist does wonders.
As for oil you may need more of it. Where are you reading temp. Good luck
-
IMHO nothing wrong with oil temps over 212F, helps boil away any moisture from condensation which keeps the formation of internal baby snot at bay. Over 250F I'd start worrying about keeping it cooler. YMMV.
Ed
-
Totally agree. My issue is how to hold that temp down when the increased power levels will want to push it much higher than recommended. Like I said in my previous statements the temp rose very fast in the last mile of the run. Added power will definitely push it too high.
-
There could be more help if you say what class as some close off the front of the vehicle. Many of us do not use a radiator of any kind even if the vehicle must have one in the stock location. I have made water spray bars for trucks out of metal tubing with tiny holes spraying onto radiator using a windshield washer pump and tank very successfully a gallon goes a long way. A fine mist does wonders.
As for oil you may need more of it. Where are you reading temp. Good luck
I am reading the water temp coming out of the motor as it heads to the radiator. I am reading the oil temp in the pan. I was thinking of maybe trying small spray bar/boom setup from a chemical spraying rig (shorten it to spray across the radiator) with an electric pump similar to one I use at home on my yard. The pump will put out 3 gallons/minute at 30 psi. I don't need anywhere near 3 gallons per minute of actual flow (I think) and I could control that with nozzle sizing. I'm thinking 3 nozzles with 180 degree spray patterns should cover the radiator. One nozzle at the bottom of the radiator shooting up towards the middle and one on each side. What do you think?
-
Well Evans Coolant is out. Thanks Milwaukee.
Hey TheBaron can you give any details of the spray bars (manufacturer info) and what type of pump are you using? Any details would be appreciated. My air intake is under the hood so the motor would be eating the water too. Not sure what effect, if any, that would have on performance.
I did leave out one detail, I am running an air/water intercooler for the turbo. It uses 3 bags of ice per run. Tank holds a total of 15 gallons and the water in the tank after a run is lukewarm.
Can you put more ice in the tank? We put 10 bags, 100 lbs in our tank but its about 38 gal and a 12 x12 internal size intercooler. 24 lbs boost, no radiator about 24 gal water tank over 2000 hp and no cooling problems.
How much boost do you have? Bigger intercooler and tank should help lower air temps = lower engine temps.
JL222
-
Like I said in my previous statements the temp rose very fast in the last mile of the run.
:roll:
Sustained high speed operation can lead to coolant cavitation.
If it's a stock style pump, how fast are you spinning it?
I'd be tempted to make sure the system you have in place is working 100% - there may not actually be a problem that simply changing the pulley to slow the pump down won't fix.
-
Like I said in my previous statements the temp rose very fast in the last mile of the run.
:roll:
Sustained high speed operation can lead to coolant cavitation.
If it's a stock style pump, how fast are you spinning it?
I'd be tempted to make sure the system you have in place is working 100% - there may not actually be a problem that simply changing the pulley to slow the pump down won't fix.
It's a billet pump specifically designed to run at high speed. The fastest I could spin it was 7100 rpm's but my target is 8000 rpm's. I have changed gears so 8000 rpm's will happen next time.
-
Well Evans Coolant is out. Thanks Milwaukee.
Hey TheBaron can you give any details of the spray bars (manufacturer info) and what type of pump are you using? Any details would be appreciated. My air intake is under the hood so the motor would be eating the water too. Not sure what effect, if any, that would have on performance.
I did leave out one detail, I am running an air/water intercooler for the turbo. It uses 3 bags of ice per run. Tank holds a total of 15 gallons and the water in the tank after a run is lukewarm.
Can you put more ice in the tank? We put 10 bags, 100 lbs in our tank but its about 38 gal and a 12 x12 internal size intercooler. 24 lbs boost, no radiator about 24 gal water tank over 2000 hp and no cooling problems.
How much boost do you have? Bigger intercooler and tank should help lower air temps = lower engine temps.
JL222
Yes I could add more ice to the tank for the intercooler. It's 15 gallons total and I could drain more water and add more ice per run. I have been running up to 25 lbs of boost but I want to increase it to 40 lbs.
-
We have had success using our 55gpm electric pump to feed the stock mechanical drive pump. This helps to prevent cavitation I high pump speeds.
You would plumb the pump in line on the lower radiator hose with the pump outlet going toward the inlet of the stock pump.
I also suggest running the stock size hose which is normally about 1.75”.
This also allows you to run the electric pump after running the engine to continue to cool the engine.
The 1 drawback is you need to make sure the electric pump is running whenever you are running the engine.
The mechanical pump will not be able to pull coolant through the electric pump.
Let me know if you need any help.
-
We have had success using our 55gpm electric pump to feed the stock mechanical drive pump. This helps to prevent cavitation I high pump speeds.
You would plumb the pump in line on the lower radiator hose with the pump outlet going toward the inlet of the stock pump.
I also suggest running the stock size hose which is normally about 1.75”.
This also allows you to run the electric pump after running the engine to continue to cool the engine.
The 1 drawback is you need to make sure the electric pump is running whenever you are running the engine.
The mechanical pump will not be able to pull coolant through the electric pump.
Let me know if you need any help.
After much thought and a few calls to the tech guys for SCTA I think my best approach is to build a 10-15 gallon external tank that will feed the mechanical pump with an electric pump (like you described) then run the output from the engine through the radiator and the outlet of the radiator back into the external tank. I will mount a couple of good puller fans on the radiator for cooling between runs and I have verified with the mechanical pump builder that the electric pump will be able to pump past the mechanical pump fairly easy when the motor is not running. The biggest challenge I see is accounting for the pressure in the cooling system with all the hoses running from the back of the car to the front and the possibility of a high pressure situation such as a blown head gasket. I don't want the tank blowing hot water inside the car if a blown head gasket causes the pressure to spike.
What's your opinion on the size of the external tank? I am running a small (172 ci) F class motor and I am sure the regular cooling system doesn't hold more than 3-4 gallons. I am thinking a 10-15 gallon tank will be completely circulated about twice during the 2 minutes of actual run time. That should keep things under control I think. What do you think?
-
Do you run a thermostat?
I'm sure you run a pressure cap... one should also be on your tank.... that should keep the water confined to the hoses... but you can use stainless tubing to run through the cockpit so water hot water can't spray on you if there is a mishap
You may want to look at putting a radiator in a water tank... search the site for info on that.
-
Do you run a thermostat?
I'm sure you run a pressure cap... one should also be on your tank.... that should keep the water confined to the hoses... but you can use stainless tubing to run through the cockpit so water hot water can't spray on you if there is a mishap
You may want to look at putting a radiator in a water tank... search the site for info on that.
No thermostat. I will run a 20 lb. cap.
-
Paul , thermostats create back pressure that raises the boiling point in the engine quite a bit .
-
It's a billet pump specifically designed to run at high speed. The fastest I could spin it was 7100 rpm's but my target is 8000 rpm's. I have changed gears so 8000 rpm's will happen next time.
This is my point - you may actually be spinning the water pump too fast for an LSR application.
By slowing the flow down, you may actually be able to pull more heat out of the engine.
If the coolant is moving too fast through the block and radiator, you may not be able to effectively release the heat through the radiator, which allows warmer water into the engine and the temp creeps up.
We wound using pulleys which slowed our water pump down to about 60% of what the stock pump was turning, and and I don't think we hit 200 degrees.
-
Chris is right. Not all but most automotive water pumps are designed turn ~4,500 rpm max. My water pump is a racing pump but I run it at 60% of crank speed. YMMV
-
It's a billet pump specifically designed to run at high speed.
Patent nonsense. Unless you have a valid pump delivery curve hopefully operating under the required conditions, you don’t know what it is doing.
By slowing the flow down, you may actually be able to pull more heat out of the engine.
If the coolant is moving too fast through the block and radiator, you may not be able to effectively release the heat through the radiator, which allows warmer water into the engine and the temp creeps up.
Unfortunately, this too is an erroneous notion, however seductive it is. It will not stand up to an actual heat transfer analysis.
Slowing the pump down may be advantageous due to possibly avoiding cavitation and consuming less horsepower, but not because the coolant goes through the radiator too fast.
-
It's a billet pump specifically designed to run at high speed. The fastest I could spin it was 7100 rpm's but my target is 8000 rpm's. I have changed gears so 8000 rpm's will happen next time.
This is my point - you may actually be spinning the water pump too fast for an LSR application.
By slowing the flow down, you may actually be able to pull more heat out of the engine.
If the coolant is moving too fast through the block and radiator, you may not be able to effectively release the heat through the radiator, which allows warmer water into the engine and the temp creeps up.
We wound using pulleys which slowed our water pump down to about 60% of what the stock pump was turning, and and I don't think we hit 200 degrees.
Chris is right. Not all but most automotive water pumps are designed turn ~4,500 rpm max. My water pump is a racing pump but I run it at 60% of crank speed. YMMV
Paul,
Some things to consider:
A/ Oil temp in the pan is fine. Wet Sump? Oil manufacturer can suggest the "optimum" temp range for their product. Sustained operation @ very elevated temps is going to require use of a synthetic based lubricant to retain film strength at those high temps. Loss of lubricant film or lubricant "breakdown" will kill your bottom end in short order with a turbo. Depending on high temp film strength, very hot oil might gain extra bhp. I typically use 220/235 degrees F.
2/ Some sort of "restrictor" should be installed in the engine coolant (water) outlet. This will raise the pressure in the coolant passages and can prevent localized "boiling", common with a "free flow" system. Run as high a pressure cap as you can, as this also adds protection.
d/ Keeping coolant temp low, within reason, can allow extra boost or timing, thereby improving bhp output. Realize that this is a "balancing act". Your goal should be to have a temp under 212 F (less would be better) at the end of your run.
z/ Billet pump for high speed?!?*? NO SUCH ANIMAL. Check out the pump drives on Cup engines . . . notice that the pumps run @ approx 50% crank speed. That's not a happy accident. Engineer your setup for 4000/4500 pump shaft rpm max. There are numerous pulley ratios available for v-belts, poly v-belts, and gilmer drives. Do some research.
:cheers:
Fordboy
-
Paul , thermostats create back pressure that raises the boiling point in the engine quite a bit .
The main issue I see with using a thermostat is the delay in opening. Can it react fast enough?
-
It's a billet pump specifically designed to run at high speed. The fastest I could spin it was 7100 rpm's but my target is 8000 rpm's. I have changed gears so 8000 rpm's will happen next time.
This is my point - you may actually be spinning the water pump too fast for an LSR application.
By slowing the flow down, you may actually be able to pull more heat out of the engine.
If the coolant is moving too fast through the block and radiator, you may not be able to effectively release the heat through the radiator, which allows warmer water into the engine and the temp creeps up.
We wound using pulleys which slowed our water pump down to about 60% of what the stock pump was turning, and and I don't think we hit 200 degrees.
Chris is right. Not all but most automotive water pumps are designed turn ~4,500 rpm max. My water pump is a racing pump but I run it at 60% of crank speed. YMMV
Paul,
Some things to consider:
A/ Oil temp in the pan is fine. Wet Sump? Oil manufacturer can suggest the "optimum" temp range for their product. Sustained operation @ very elevated temps is going to require use of a synthetic based lubricant to retain film strength at those high temps. Loss of lubricant film or lubricant "breakdown" will kill your bottom end in short order with a turbo. Depending on high temp film strength, very hot oil might gain extra bhp. I typically use 220/235 degrees F.
2/ Some sort of "restrictor" should be installed in the engine coolant (water) outlet. This will raise the pressure in the coolant passages and can prevent localized "boiling", common with a "free flow" system. Run as high a pressure cap as you can, as this also adds protection.
d/ Keeping coolant temp low, within reason, can allow extra boost or timing, thereby improving bhp output. Realize that this is a "balancing act". Your goal should be to have a temp under 212 F (less would be better) at the end of your run.
z/ Billet pump for high speed?!?*? NO SUCH ANIMAL. Check out the pump drives on Cup engines . . . notice that the pumps run @ approx 50% crank speed. That's not a happy accident. Engineer your setup for 4000/4500 pump shaft rpm max. There are numerous pulley ratios available for v-belts, poly v-belts, and gilmer drives. Do some research.
:cheers:
Fordboy
I seem to have created a monster from my statement that the pump is designed to run at high rpm. I should have added the pump AND pulley combination are designed to run at high rpm. It's an Esslinger pump and pulley and I am sure they know about high rpm applications.
-
Personal opinion... Run a thermostat... especially if you add a water tank
We ran without one for a lot of years, data always showed the water was in the 220 range at the end of a run... we had a small radiator with a NACA duct, data showed it removed about 3-5 degrees, we needed the room so we took it out. This is an enclosed car, 5 gallon water tank, both 1 liter and 65 inch, approximately 250 HP (not dyno verified) N2O motors that were warmed to 100 degree tank water temp and hotter than that oil temp before a run.
Changed to a 90 inch motor after the 65 inch motor failed (understatement) and left the stock 180* thermostat in. Warm up time reduced to thermostat opening, about 5 minutes or so with oil pan too hot to leave your hand on it, then allowing the motor to heat soak from there. Can see thermostat opening and restricting on the data, water 180 to 190 entire run. HP close to the same, ran about 1 MPH slower on gas than the 65 did on N20.
So yes I recommend running a thermostat to help control the heat
YMMV :cheers:
-
Personal opinion... Run a thermostat... especially if you add a water tank
We ran without one for a lot of years, data always showed the water was in the 220 range at the end of a run... we had a small radiator with a NACA duct, data showed it removed about 3-5 degrees, we needed the room so we took it out. This is an enclosed car, 5 gallon water tank, both 1 liter and 65 inch, approximately 250 HP (not dyno verified) N2O motors that were warmed to 100 degree tank water temp and hotter than that oil temp before a run.
Changed to a 90 inch motor after the 65 inch motor failed (understatement) and left the stock 180* thermostat in. Warm up time reduced to thermostat opening, about 5 minutes or so with oil pan too hot to leave your hand on it, then allowing the motor to heat soak from there. Can see thermostat opening and restricting on the data, water 180 to 190 entire run. HP close to the same, ran about 1 MPH slower on gas than the 65 did on N20.
So yes I recommend running a thermostat to help control the heat
YMMV :cheers:
That is interesting data. I think once I get this thing set up I will put it on the chassis dyno and simulate some runs. I will try it with and without the stat and see what happens.
-
...You may want to look at putting a radiator in a water tank... search the site for info on that...
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/Hooley%202013/rad-in-box-76.jpg)
We switched from running water from a large tank through the motor and back again to 'a-radiator-in-a-tank' and like this approach much better. Now we have a low pressure loop from the large tank to the tank the radiator is in and a high pressure side in the loop from the engine to the radiator and back again. Lots of benefits to this. More on the build here....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/Hooley%202013/13%20-%20construction%20menu.html
Not saying this is the best approach for you. I'd probably start by optimizing what you have, but if you consider going to a larger tank and trying to use it directly I'd consider it for sure,
Sumner
-
...You may want to look at putting a radiator in a water tank... search the site for info on that...
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/Hooley%202013/rad-in-box-76.jpg)
We switched from running water from a large tank through the motor and back again to 'a-radiator-in-a-tank' and like this approach much better. Now we have a low pressure loop from the large tank to the tank the radiator is in and a high pressure side in the loop from the engine to the radiator and back again. Lots of benefits to this. More on the build here....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/Hooley%202013/13%20-%20construction%20menu.html
Not saying this is the best approach for you. I'd probably start by optimizing what you have, but if you consider going to a larger tank and trying to use it directly I'd consider it for sure,
Sumner
I looked at the photos of the build of your rad-in-a-box. You have a ton of hours in that invention. I am very impressed by the amount of work and the amount of thought you put into this project. It's truly innovative. What is the fastest speed for the car to date?
-
... What is the fastest speed for the car to date?
The car ran a 249+ record with a 253 exit speed, but that was with the older B motor running a roots blower and using the water tank directly to the engine (before the radiator in a box).
With the new AA motor the car has yet to be run hard. I ran license runs the first year with it and ran 218 at 45% throttle on my A license. We thought we might have a problem so took the car to my place intending to return for WOS but the year rained out. Went back the next year to be rained out. The following year Hooley ran 220+ but the course was so bad we gave up with no real run to see what we had. That was the last the car ran,
Sumner
-
It seems that you really don't know much about your water pump. I am sure that Esslinger can provide you with flow/pressure/rpm curves and from these you can begin to figure out what your water system should be and what rpm you should turn the pump. You want the water to travel at the maximum velocity through both the engine and the radiator, you want enough pump and system pressure to both raise the water boiling point and eliminate any potential steam pockets that may occur around the exhaust valves. Be careful using electric water pumps as they are flow rated at zero pressure. To my knowledge only the Davis- Craig pumps out of Aussie land provide flow/pressure charts on their pumps that should be used to select a proper pump. Also "supercharging" your mechanical pump with an electric pump requires that the electric pump should be 20-50 percent larger than the mechanical pump to ensure that it doesn't be come the flow limiting device in the system. Absolutely run a thermostat! Period.
Rex
-
Actually, I doubt that Esslinger can supply flow curves. I worked with Dan Esslinger as far back as the mid eighties, I became very close to the family and they were a great help with my engine program.
If the pump that you refer to is the remote pump the midget motors currently use, I have some knowledge of how it came into being.
This all occured during my tenure at Ford Engine Engineering in the 2.3L OHC design group. The Ford water pump is nothing more than a paddle wheel, and I was looking for an external pump for my turbocharged 2.5L engine for my Merkur Land Speed Efforts.
I found the external mounted 2.3/2.5L HSC engine water pump. I was able to have it flowed in several configurations, Restricting Inlet to 0.98" and 0.84" which is the id of -16 AN braided stainless hose.
The pump has good flow and there was NO cavitation, up to 9K rpm which was the highest we tested. (pump speed) This test was in 1992. The only data I have left are some hand written notes I made at my design intent.
At the design point of 0.84 inlet restriction and a thermostat.
9000 RPM it required 5.90HP Flow was 74.3GPM at 302f H2O
Pressure B4 thermostat 67.7psi and after stat 39.9psi.
NO I didn't run at this point. Since I had all the data, I looked at running 1:1 down to .3:1 pump speed. Actually back then I had too much of an OEM mentality that I was targeting 7000 RPM. At that point flow was 38.2 GPM at 47.9 PSI.
Dan used this pump and data supplied by Ford SVO in 1992 on their Stadium racing truck. SVO supplied a few pumps and all the data I had.
Since that time Dan basically reverse engineered the pump castings and produced his version of the design intent. I don't believe they had water pump flow capability. They would have used data I supplied.
With the time passing, two fires in their building, and sale of the company to an offshore owner, I'm guessing that much of the data and history of Esslinger Engineering/Racing has been lost. BUT the remote pump they have for sale is a very good copy and performs well.
Bottom line USE A THERMOSTAT and you should be fine.
-
Stewart does not want their water pump turning over +- 5000 so I stepped my water pump and alt. down accordingly we are shifting at 82 and shooting for 77-7800 last mile exit speed.
Stewart told me to shoot for 35-40 PSI between the pump and the thermostat if it was below that --go to restrictors you have to eliminate the "boil bubbles" from forming on the head surfaces.
I have been running a radiator in a box system for 10 = years in 2 different cars. 28 PSi radiator cap on the closed 2 pass system. The radiator box also has a 2 pass system with a 55 gpm electric pump that actually delivers about 20 gpm for the back of the car. We have another cheap HF Chicom transfer pump that we can move the water from the radiator box back to the rear.
Run procedure: empty the box with the transfer pump, warm the eng to 150 degs, kill run the rear pump for 30-35 seconds when we are ready to fire for the run, stop pump, fire the eng, when we are ready to run when the oil and coolant is where we want it 155, turn the coolant pump back on , close the canopy. Don't ask me why the guy on the out side is responsible for the pump.
We are cooling a little over 900 hp for about 1 min 40 seconds on a BBC 10 gallons in the radiator in a box and 22 gallons in the rear tank. easy peasy