Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Jesse9938 on November 05, 2014, 07:35:27 PM
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Hello All,
I am going to post some pictures of the C4 Corvette I have been working on for the last 3 years and hope to have finished for the 2015 racing season.
Thank you,
Jesse Armstrong
NW PA.
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Rollcage started
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Rollcage otherside
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Engine install last 2013
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Nice work ..putting a cage in a c-4 will drive you nuts lol..What size big block you running? and good luck with the build.
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mxnuke,
Thanks, A friend of mine is doing the cage for me, as he does them as a side business. Plus, Joe Timney has been a great help to us, THANKS Joe! The engine is a 505 right now.
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Cage start...
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Cage start 2...
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All,
Please if anyone sees any issues that I might encounter with tech, please let me know. All help will be much appreciated, as this is my first build for land-speed racing.
Thank you,
Jesse Armstrong
Jsmonteracer@yahoo.com
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Other than the standard "rule book" answer, I would check out some other builds on this site. Robfrey built a very successful C4 that has a diary, to name just one.
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I'd say Rob's car did ok... The YouTube videos of that car on the dyno give me goosebumps!
Looks good Jesse. You will hear this a thousand times, but, get a current rule book. And I promise you, even then you will have some questions. The fellas here on the forum are an amazing source of information and knowledge. They have helped me with my build more than I can ever thank them.
Good luck, and keep us updated!
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What kind of headers are you running ? Good looking build!!
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[quote Robfrey built a very successful C4
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And Rob lives very close to you in Butler Pa.
Dave # 3611
56 Corvette
BGMS
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Rollcage continued... Sorry if I am boring anyone! LOL
Thank you all for the information, I ordered a 2014 rulebook from SCTA last week and I have the 2012 and 2013 rulebooks from the ECTA.
Does anyone know off hand what the size and thickness requirements are for the seat support structure?
Thank you,
Jesse
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Cont...
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Cont...
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F A N T A S T I C image sizes.
The better to see You my Dear.
FREUD
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Have you checked your top rollbar above the drivers head.
I built my C4 Roadrace car with a similar top bar and my helmet was
in contact with the bar. My seat was sitting almost flush with the floor
and I am only 5" 10'
I had to remove the bar and move it out about 2 inches to clear
my helmet.
Dave
56 Corvette
# 3611 BGMS
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Inspectors "like" to see lower tubes connecting the four corner "posts" forming an upper and lower "halo"
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Freud - I agree, much better to see! Thank you!
Gray63 - Thank goodness I am only 5'8", because he had the upper bar totally straight at first and with the Halo seat 1.5" off the floor my helmet was almost touching that upper bar, so he took it back out and added that slight kick up.
My biggest worry now is getting my fat butt into the car once the other bars are in place...LOL!
Sparky - Please, educate me more, I really appreciate any and all advice! I am new to roll-cage construction and want to be sure I bring up your advice/recommendation to him, so I meet all the desired tech requirements and also so I am 'safe'.
Thank you,
Jesse
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Redhotracing and lsrjunkie - Thanks for the info. I am hoping I will get the 2014 rulebook any day.
Leadfoot - I have 2.125" dia. Hooker Super Comps that I modified sightly to fit the chassis. Thanks.
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When we built our Production VW Passat over the last 3 years, we were fortunate to hire the racecar fabrication services of (, to name two...) Brian Thomas and Tim McNees, both local here in Salt Lake City. Our car has passed Tech Inspection smoothly from its first Speedweek in 2012, and has given us confidence to safely exceed 200 mph at Bonneville dozens of times since... There are tons of build photos on our facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/PotterBrosRacing/photos_stream?tab=photos_albums
Hope that is useful!
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Hi Jesse
Are you going to lift off the body to get to all the welds on your cage?
When checking your fit in the car be sure to have all your gear on as you will get bigger
Andy Welker used metal brackets and hose clamps to hold his cage in place , to be sure it all was right then welded it up
Very crafty idea, you might want to check out his tank build as he did one hell of a great build job
What kind of speed are you looking at in your class ?
Looking good, G Don
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When checking your fit in the car be sure to have all your gear on as you will get bigger
Just to piggy back on the last post a little, also have your required sfi roll cage padding in place when you do a fit check... the pad in commonly 3/4 inch thick... You do not want your helmet touching anything during a run.
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Piggy back #2
Allow for some belt stretch too, not sure how much?
Since you are 5'8" maybe you can recline your seat for more room on top, that would be a good thing !!!
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A few more pictures of our progress!
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Another...
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Finishing welds after trial fitting....
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Excellent fit on the tubes.
That wasn't easy for sure. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Sorry for the long delay, Work has been very Crazy! Thank you all!!!
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#2
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#3
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#4
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#5
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Hi All,
Need some advice on transmission selection! I have about $4000 to spend and I want to switch to a manual that will stand up behind a 1000-1100 hp BBC. Rear gear ratios are 2.59 and up and the engine starts to roll over at 6700, hoping for 210-220 mph...in my dreams right. Am I out of luck and need to save my pennies or what? All help and advice is much appreciated!
Thanks,
Jesse
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For about half that budget you should look at a used (Nascar) Jerico or G-Force trans. They have lots of different ratios & can even be worked into an overdrive if needed. Do some Googleing.
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Summer & Hooley. Like their G force choice but talk to Summer the initial choice of cluster really affects your later choices
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Summer & Hooley. Like their G force choice but talk to Summer the initial choice of cluster really affects your later choices
Yep really like the G-Force 101-A in the Stude and I bought one for the lakester if it ever runs. You still might find some in the $2000 range but I couldn't. A couple years ago I found some in the $1500 range but the drag guys have found them and driven the price. If you look at the used ones be careful as there are different generations of these and you want some of the last ones as they can handle more power than the earlier ones (need one with the 'full cuff' between the main and jackshaft).
I haven't checked lately but G-Force was selling about one transmission a month on ebay under an individual's name (he is an officer in the company). I think I got mine bidding about the second time I tried for a little over $3000. The nice thing about this is the transmission is suppose to be reconditioned but looks new and I think it might all be new from the looks of all the parts and you get to pick your gear ratios in that price so you aren't stuck with the ones in a used transmission and then have to go hunting and paying for gear sets, but the sets are out there and for about $100 or less you can pick up either the drive gear sets or 1st, 2nd and 3rd sets and as Mike mentioned 3rd can be an overdrive (what we run in the Stude) tons of ratios but you need to understand the gear charts and the options between the drive gears and the other gears. Get one where 1st gear isn't integral to the jackshaft and you even have more flexibility.
If you get the transmission from G-force (north) you also have a choice of shifter in the price, either an H-Pattern or a Vertical gate you just row back and forth which is what I got for the lakester and which is what we wished we had in the Stude. If you don't want to mess with the ebay thing the last time I looked you could get the transmission outright by just ordering it for around $4000. I believe they rate the the 4 speed for 1000 HP on pavement (much higher on the salt) and the 5 speed I think up to about 1500 on pavement. If I would of had the money I would of gone the 5 speed, not for the power, but the extra ratio. You can get the transmission in either clutch-assist or clutchless. Personally I wouldn't get the clutchless as it is designed more for the drag guys and as understand is made to more or less pop out of gear when the power goes off during the shift for a faster shift. Since you are getting in and out of the throttle on the salt you don't want it coming out of gear (talk to them). We have the clutch assist but a couple years we had throwout bearing problems and I would push the car up to speed and Hooley would pull it into 1st take off and make the shifts no clutch and pop it into neutral at the 5 and it will do that over and over with no problem so even though they say clutch assist you don't need it on the shifts.
Once the transmission is out of the car you could change gear sets in 45 minutes or less. With the Stude it is a pain to get the transmission out so we change before going but could change there. I'm setting the transmission in the lakester to come out very quickly and I have one gear set that I'll try using on the short course to maximize getting over 175 by the 2 1/4 on the short course. If that happens then I'll switch to an overdrive 3rd for the long course.
I have a lot more info on these that if some one needs PM me and you could call. Also I would not buy the Tex 101 as it is the earlier model and won't take as much HP. G-Force bought up Tex and then continued development with the transmission,
Sumner
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Dynaroom, Sparky and Summer,
Thank you all for the advice and help! I really appreciate it! I had G-Force north send me a CD with all their information, but I was still having a hard time knowing what might be the right way to go. I will be in touch once I get closer to the purchase as the Wife is saying Christmas comes first...LOL! Thanks again and any and all other advice is much appreciated!
Thanks,
Jesse
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Jesse, you are one lucky dude - having a wife that's encouraging you to let her buy you a tranny for Christmas. That's really sweet to hear. :cheers: :roll:
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Seldom, I agree, she is so good to me... :cheers:
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We run a 4 speed Jerico dr4. There is one for sale right now on racingjunk.com for $1999.00 with some good ratios for your combination. 2.18,1.68,1.28 and 1 to 1. You can always change the ratios latter by changing the main drive gears. We have never had a problem with our gearbox and have run 274 in gt/ms.