Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: kustombrad on February 24, 2014, 01:04:07 PM
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Hi! I Figured I'd tell a bit about myself before I jump right in. I've been a Striping/Lettering/Custom Paint/Artist guy for many years and have been fortunate enough to work with some of the biggest names in hot rods and race cars (I even lettered the Pierson coupe when Pete restored it) and have played with some fun car projects. I've always had a passion for drag racing and Bonneville and decided when I turned 50 last year, I needed to quit talking and get busy before my window of opportunity got smaller! Last summer I started playing with some drawings of what I was thinking. Seeing Jack Costella's stuff (He's my hero!) and the size of his cars, decided the direction I wanted to go! I sat down in front of my computer and using Coreldraw, I started laying out what I thought was a good plan. Once I had it drawn to scale and to where I figured I could make it work, I took the files (side view and floor plan) to Kinko's and had them print out both views also to scale. I now had some basic blueprints to play with. Now this is my first attempt at building any kind of race car and I decided on a streamliner because the engine possibilities are unlimited. I bounced the idea off my neighbor and told him my plan. He had an older Mittler Brothers drill press tubing notcher he donated to the cause so I save a few bucks there. Since a 2 car garage isn't big enough to do this my friends Mike and Roger at Romic Shocks told me I could use the back area in there shop to do this. I scored a 20'x26" wide fab table that was Mel Swains before he retired (it has a whole lot of history) set up my band saw, disc/belt sander, drill press and welders and I was off! Here's the bottom print laying on the table (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-08-19_16-10-00_551_zpsb9e39285.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-08-19_16-10-00_551_zpsb9e39285.jpg.html) this gave me something to lay on the floor and take all my measurements from. I took the bottom drawing to my friend Ron at Victory Race Cars and he helped me bend up my bottom frame rails so the fit right in with the drawing. After cutting and notching all the cross braces (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/2013-09-05_18-59-59_533_zpsf3051853.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/2013-09-05_18-59-59_533_zpsf3051853.jpg.html), I started squaring everything up to tack together (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/2013-09-13_17-57-39_115_zps74c5d1b2.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/2013-09-13_17-57-39_115_zps74c5d1b2.jpg.html). I used my Mig to tack everything together because it was just easier having to do it all by myself (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/2013-09-26_17-51-56_69_zpsb9790b4c.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/2013-09-26_17-51-56_69_zpsb9790b4c.jpg.html).
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Wow! Nice project. Keep up with the posts.
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Fordboy
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Build your rotisserie NOW.
It will save you a lot of time and worry.
Here is a link to the one used in the Target550 build.
http://www.target550.com/gallery/156_rotisserie_clamps/index.html
FREUD
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Outstanding craftsmanship :cheers: Looking forward :cheers:to the build :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Fast forward a few weeks... basic chassis all done! (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-13_12-52-28_934_zps758f2898.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-13_12-52-28_934_zps758f2898.jpg.html) my friend Mike Loyd who's an outstanding TIG welder came over and finish welded the whole thing for me! It came out awesome! Here's some of his welds (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-20_19-27-33_602_zpsffca5d55.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-20_19-27-33_602_zpsffca5d55.jpg.html) (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-07_09-36-03_210_zpsc2ee2752.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-07_09-36-03_210_zpsc2ee2752.jpg.html) I'll post up some more stuff soon!
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That rotisserie came out pretty cool!
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Here's the rear with one of the wheels mocked up (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-26_15-00-25_80_zpsijfo8gmc.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-26_15-00-25_80_zpsijfo8gmc.jpg.html) and another at ride height (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-26_15-03-21_755_zpsvgpqlkwo.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-26_15-03-21_755_zpsvgpqlkwo.jpg.html) I'm roughly 5' 10" and I wanted to get an idea where it was at. I used 1 5/8" and 1" .095 chromoly which might be a bit overkill but I figured better safe than sorry with some of the engine combinations I want to play with.
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That rotisserie came out pretty cool!
and very useful. It is a time saver.
I failed to include the next diary page that is much bigger then the first one I sent.
Check this out: http://www.target550.com/gallery/157_frame_on_rotisserie/index.html
That quite well covers it.
FREUD
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The steering I based off what Jack Costella did (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-18_15-40-00_210_zps1946cb81.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-18_15-40-00_210_zps1946cb81.jpg.html) but tried to take it a step further. I found a 120 degree gearbox to make getting in and out a whole lot easier (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-19_14-31-43_326_zps1fa4b6f7.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-19_14-31-43_326_zps1fa4b6f7.jpg.html) and using funny car hatch latches to hold it down. I can also get out when it's down just in case!
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Since I didn't want to be playing dancing feet at speed and since room in the footwell was at a premium, I decided on a handbrake. After climbing inside numerous times to figure out an exact angle, I made up a cardboard template and carved the handle out of some 1/4" aluminum. (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-06_16-41-43_711_zpsa9c7085e.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-06_16-41-43_711_zpsa9c7085e.jpg.html)
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Very nice build. I know of Ron Williams and Victory Race Cars from my years in drag racing. Nice to have someone like that to help out on stuff. Cant wait to see more updates.
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I had the front suspension kinda figured out in my head so I drew more parts up. This where using the computer really is a plus. Since I'd drawn in all up to scale, it made it easier to figure my dimensions and playing room, but it's going to be tight. After drawing all my brackets up, I sent them as a CAD file to my friends at Western Fabricators to get cut out on the laser. Here's part of the suspension tacked in place (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-18_15-58-38_788_zps302b1a6c.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-18_15-58-38_788_zps302b1a6c.jpg.html). Spindles are from Strange and the mock up wheels and tires came from Brad Anderson and his daughter Shelley's top fuel car. Here's mote laser goodies to support the spindles (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-19_14-40-32_43_zps47928e54.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-19_14-40-32_43_zps47928e54.jpg.html) With the spindles tacked in place and pivot bushings fabbed up, was time to measure the 2 link arms. (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-01_17-03-34_130_zps0752f7ae.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-01_17-03-34_130_zps0752f7ae.jpg.html) I made a template out of cardboard and a jig (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-02_13-21-34_601_zps11a837d5.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-02_13-21-34_601_zps11a837d5.jpg.html) and cut the chromoly flat stock on a jigsaw and made my 4 arms. Here's 1 flipped over so I could weld plates on the back side (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-08_14-10-23_16_zps8ca8808c.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-08_14-10-23_16_zps8ca8808c.jpg.html)
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Thank you Speed and Frankie!
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Brad:
Nice going, and nice diary. But -- I think I'll offer to help you figure out how to post your Photobucket photos so the text isn't starting way the heck over there or over here or under that. I can read along -- but it takes a bit of effort - effort that I'd rather spend enjoying the build itself. Send a PM or email so I get yours and, if you are interested, I'll see if I can help figure out how to get things more "presentable".
This in no way should be taken as an insult, please. Thanks. :-)
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very nice work Brad
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Very Nice! Sounds and looks like you have a very well thought out plan of attack. Keep up the great work! :cheers:
Scottie J
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Arms all tacked up (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-13_14-33-36_437_zpsbb388ac9.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-13_14-33-36_437_zpsbb388ac9.jpg.html) and mounted up (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-08_17-29-40_385_zpsce374446.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-08_17-29-40_385_zpsce374446.jpg.html) (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-20_16-21-28_139_zps4cca2147.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-20_16-21-28_139_zps4cca2147.jpg.html) I went with the 2 link design to keep the caster parallel though the travel arc. Will have around an 1" of total travel. Up next, coilover shock mounts...
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This is a really nice job of fabrication. The only question I have is how much can you turn the wheels? It looks like they're pretty much against the insides. I know you don't require much.
Pete
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They turn 5 degrees, which is all I need. The real wheels /tires will be carved out of aluminum (these things are from the 90's so I'm not running them!) and be narrower at the outside parameter, so clearance won't be an issue at all!
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Awesome fabrication and welding skills!!
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Fordboy
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In rereading I noticed you referred to them as mock up wheels and tires. I thought they looked like old dragster front tires and the reread confirmed that. You are doing some mighty fine work. Keep it up! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Man! After seeing all of these pics of this great work on a custom frame/chassis, it kind of makes me want to build a streamliner bike! I feel another build coming on as soon as I finish building and running my '59 RE/Inidan. :-D Seriously great work. Your welder has some amazing talent with that TIG to lay down such clean welds.
Scottie J
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Thanks Fordboy and Pete! I have a plan in my head and bunch of things I want to do that I've never seen done on a 'liner! Scottie, dude you gotta do the streamliner bike! Set your mind on kill mode and go for it! In another thread on here, there was talk of streamliner budgets and since I don't have much in the budget department but I have a little ability and a ton of passion I decided I needed to do it! All the safety gear you need to run one if these things is a pile of money and I'm not too excited about that deal! Here's a pic of the shock frame brackets. (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-20_16-49-00_687_zpsa48b4ea9.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-20_16-49-00_687_zpsa48b4ea9.jpg.html) I drew these up to get laser cut and designed them with the frame notch in the bottom. Since the bottom rail is even all the way across, that was my keeping them even deal. I had to cut the notch in the tops with a hole saw in 4 different areas because the top rail tapers down. I took a piece of square 1 1/4" and milled some notches to allow the shock to fit up inside, move and not hit anything (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-21_15-29-07_539_zpseb321360.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-21_15-29-07_539_zpseb321360.jpg.html) After drilling a 1/2" hole I welded a grade 8 washer to each side for added strength (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-21_15-50-40_503_zpsd2154938.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-21_15-50-40_503_zpsd2154938.jpg.html) tacked it all together and there it is. (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-22_15-32-33_356_zpsbf3118b1.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-22_15-32-33_356_zpsbf3118b1.jpg.html) Now I just need Mike to finish welding it! In all the pics you'll see a bunch of crappy nuts and bolts and it's all garbage for mockup. I'll use good stuff during final assembly!
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I think it looks pretty cool! (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-22_16-39-24_357_zps6bf0f0da.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-22_16-39-24_357_zps6bf0f0da.jpg.html) Now I need to finish the actual steering nightmare!
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What are those small coilover shocks? Thx.
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Mountain bike double adjustables custom built by my friend Roger at Romic Shocks.
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Wow, what a great build!! It looks like you have been doing this forever even it you haven't.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11-26_15-03-21_755_zpsvgpqlkwo.jpg)
It looks like you have been very through on thinking things out and probably have this covered but if not I'd look into it. I think I'm going to have to move my cage up about 1 1/2 inches to get helmet and roll bar padding room that I need. Helmets have grown since I first started and the padding on the tubes takes up more room than I first accounted for due to the curved shape. You most likely have already checked but if not put the cage padding in, the helmet and suit on along with the belts and make sure you fit and still have forward vision.
The other problem with these lay-down cars is the steering and all the controls need to be very specific to anyone that will drive the car. I have my foot pedals and steering both setup so they can be moved between drivers if that happens.
I'll be interested in seeing how the hand brake works. I've wanted to go that route but there again laying down in there it is hard to move your arm in the direction you need to operate one. I'm having the same problem with the gearshift as I hope to stay away from an air shifter. I'm looking at having the shifter swing just under the steering in an arc parallel to the bottom of the car with the pivot point forward on my right elbow, if that makes sense.
With the limited arm movement with restraints and just how your arm can bend, getting the hand brake, hand shifter and the fire bottle controls and the chute releases where they all can be worked can be a challenge. Much easier in a car where you aren't so prone. I wish I would of worked on this area earlier in the build.
What are you planning on for power-plants?
Keep posting as you have some really good ideas,
Sum
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Stainless, has an educated opinion on chute release control placement.
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It will be interesting in seeing how you design the steering linkage to prevent bump steer .
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I pretty much designed the cage area around me wearing a helmet. I actually have plenty of room even being cramped. The shifter and fire bottles I have figured within arms reach but still playing with a couple ideas for chute levers. As far as suspension goes, I should have zero bump steer the way I'm doing it.
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Hey Sumner, I've been in and out of that car so many times I've lost count! Here's a bad pic when I first tacked the car up and no the pillows haven't gone through tech yet! (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG958086_zpsc7c7a315.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG958086_zpsc7c7a315.jpg.html) As far as the brake lever, it's literally an 1 1/2" away from the steering. All I do is think of this car every waking moment I have and while doing that, every inch of the car goes through its build up from every possible angle! The shifter handle has a home as do the fire bottle handles and I have a couple ideas for the chute levers, I just need to get back in the car with a Sharpie!
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Unfortunately they're probably going to require you to extend the legs on your fire suit. :evil: :evil: :-D
Pete
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:cheers:That is art work in progress :cheers:
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Mountain bike double adjustables custom built by my friend Roger at Romic Shocks.
I have a few of those laying around.
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Do you plan on using an air shifter? Might be helpful for space in the cockpit,
but not sure how big of a CO2 tank you'd need to fit somewhere else...
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Streamliner - - Question,
So how do these things work when you have a problem, say a seized motor? You pull the brake handle with one hand, the chute with your other hand, while pushing the clutch in to avoid locking up the wheels, and you steer with.... your other knee? On a bike you pull the clutch in and pull the brake on while holding onto to the bars for dear life, but in the end it doesn't matter because you're no longer on the bike anyway(been there and done that)! Just wondering.
Tom
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Streamliner - - Question,
So how do these things work when you have a problem, say a seized motor? You pull the brake handle with one hand, the chute with your other hand, while pushing the clutch in to avoid locking up the wheels, and you steer with.... your other knee? On a bike you pull the clutch in and pull the brake on while holding onto to the bars for dear life, but in the end it doesn't matter because you're no longer on the bike anyway(been there and done that)! Just wondering.
Tom
To me the chute is the first out, with the clutch at the same time. Then worry about any braking. When the throttle stuck wide open on me at about 180 and the car started to spin I couldn't get the chute out quick enough so then didn't as I just thought it would wrap around the car, but then the vertical stabilizers caught the car and as it went back around I got the chute out. If is probably going to depend on just what is happening and how quickly,
Sum
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If I seize a motor, the FIRST thing I'm doing is pushing in the clutch! After that reach over, pull the chute, mumble some stuff about said seized motor then slow it to a stop! Pretty simple stuff actually...Stupid motor!
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Stainless and I have learned that a chute button on the wheel might save you and the car. Electric on the Lakester and air on the Liner. You only have to move your thumb a small amount and it gives you the fastest response.
John
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Nope, no air shifter. I'm not a fan at all because those things are brutal on parts! I'd much rather reach over and pull the next gear than have some killer solenoid shove it in! Plus, if you're doing it you can feel any funny stuff, but hitting the button all you'll hear is crunching of parts! Just my opinion ...
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Stainless and I have learned that a chute button on the wheel might save you and the car. Electric on the Lakester and air on the Liner. You only have to move your thumb a small amount and it gives you the fastest response.
John
Stainless ought to write up what he presented last Friday on this and put it into the safety section. He sure convinced me that an "<close to> under the thumb" button is much better (and faster) than reaching over and pulling something to deploy the chute.
Mike
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I'm going to keep the chutes manual too! I've seen too many chutes that DIDN'T open that were either electronic or really short throw levers at the drags over the years! Too much at stake to trust another solenoid!
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Stainless and I have learned that a chute button on the wheel might save you and the car. Electric on the Lakester and air on the Liner. You only have to move your thumb a small amount and it gives you the fastest response.
John
I agree and will do the same. Wish I would of had the button on that one run. The chute is vital and if it isn't out as soon as possible might never be able to do its job. It is there for far more than to just stop a car. I'll have the button and the manual backup as I believe the rules require,
Sum
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So on the 'liner are you putting 2 buttons on, one for the high speed chute and one for the low speed?
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So on the 'liner are you putting 2 buttons on, one for the high speed chute and one for the low speed?
Not sure who the question is for. I have 2 tubes on the lakester but only one chute at present and might never run fast enough to need the second tube. If I did I'd have 2 buttons possibly but consider the first one the vital "get it out as soon as possible if Subaru happens" one to have.
Unless the first chute didn't deploy the second doesn't have to get out near as fast. I guess on that one it would be whatever is more convenient as far as operating (still need to have the manual backup),
Sum
P.S. From your other picture looks like you will have plenty of room above the helmet :-)
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P.S. From your other picture looks like you will have plenty of room above the helmet :-)
If he can see sitting that low.
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Would it make sense to use a motorcycle clutch handle on your steering mechanism to release the chute? It could be manual and you wouldn't have to take your hands off the wheel or handlebar or whatever. I was also thinking that a second master cylinder with a foot operated brake pedal hooked up in parallel with the hand brake, with a couple of check valves, might be nice in case you had a lot of steering feedback to deal with when you wanted to start applying the brakes. Maybe I'm overthinking; cold night and it's snowing again.
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We use a hand brake, no problems. Works great for loading and unloading and pushing the car in the waiting line to the starting line.
Richard 2
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Wow! Ok first is first... Sumner, I wanted you to see the rollbar so you knew where I was at. Second, I'm not as paranoid stopping on the salt than if I was running at Pomona and had to stop a much heavier car at the same speed. The car is 28' long 26" wide and 27" tall. It has a 250+" wheelbase with not a lot of rear overhang and 25 degrees of caster. With the design of the body and the way the car is set up, I'll be able to drive it with one hand. With only rear brakes, panic stops are pretty much out of the question UNLESS I want to put put it on it's lid! As far as sitting too low, I'd sit behind a wall and use a mirror if that's what it took to break records! I'm not building it to be comfortable, I'm building it to be long, low, safe and FAST! I'll figure out the safest, most efficient chute deal and go with that. I do appreciate the input though! Thanks guys!
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Richard, you are the man!
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Hey Koncrete, the clutch lever is a really good idea!
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Helmet Space....
- is there now the restrict helmet movement under the rollcage for new streamliner/lakester in the rule book - which moves the front tube of the rollcage far forward?
- is a mirror for a while not anymore allowed - see rule book
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Hey Pork! Same rules for the cage as always. I have the distance from the front of the bars more than covered and more than sufficient room for the padding. I put that pic in there cuz I wanted to show Sumner my room situation. As far as the mirror comment, I can see out of car (perfect for a minute and a half drive!) but I was being a bit if a smartass!
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Some gussets tacked in place.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-22_14-44-35_280_zpsdfcaacdf.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02-22_14-44-35_280_zpsdfcaacdf.jpg.html)
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Don (Salt27) and Tom Burkland both PMd me with some really good ideas. I kinda got a bit of a 'tude yesterday and I apologize! I know some of you have been doing this for years and I need to be open to EVERYONE and not just the people I choose! Thank you again everyone for your input! Brad
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Your craftsmanship is outstanding :cheers:Thanks again for posting the photos. An inspiration to perfection :cheers:
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Don (Salt27) and Tom Burkland both PMd me with some really good ideas. I kinda got a bit of a 'tude yesterday and I apologize! I know some of you have been doing this for years and I need to be open to EVERYONE and not just the people I choose! Thank you again everyone for your input! Brad
No problem Brad and thanks for posting your build.
Don
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This was a little cheesy but I had to do it. Being the crown is part of my last name I decided to try something a bit different. When I drew up my gussets to send to the laser guy I added the crowns too.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-14_19-52-48_824_zpsc62fc785.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-14_19-52-48_824_zpsc62fc785.jpg.html)
To keep it from potentially cracking, I welded a piece of .125" steel to the back
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-18_15-59-52_840_zps42ae19b3.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-18_15-59-52_840_zps42ae19b3.jpg.html)
Then tacked them in place
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-18_16-20-01_920-1_zps88acaa38.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-18_16-20-01_920-1_zps88acaa38.jpg.html)
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I like the touch. A little personalizing adds something special to a project. :-D :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Breaking Wind!! (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/PAINTWITHLOGOS2_zpsa00d4650.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PAINTWITHLOGOS2_zpsa00d4650.jpg.html)
Here's a rough plan for the body. Will fine tune the shape in a couple areas but you get the idea. The paint layout will pretty much be like this but I'm still not sure of the lettering/style layout. I'm planning on NO decals on the car like in the old top fuel/funny car days and brushing them all on! Paint will be pearls and candies.
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Absolutely LOVE this build!
Excellent planning and execution so far! Crown in the gusset is impeccable!
Paint shceme and the name are the crowning (no pun intended) touches!
Hope to see it on the salt one day!
Gregg
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PM sent
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Something I forgot to share that I did when I built the chassis that was something a friend who works on Speed Demon told me to do. On all my tubing where EVERY ONE OF THEM intersect, I drilled an 1/8" hole (that was fun trying to remember even with tape and Sharpie notes reminding me!) so all the tubing is literally connected. On my very back tube, it's plugged with a thicker piece of steel with an 1/8" pipe hole in it for a shrader valve. When I get back from an event, I'll put around 5 lbs of nitrogen or some other "dry" air and watch the gauge. If it doesn't move, no frame cracks but if it does, put more air inside and walk around with a bottle full of soapy water and look for bubbles! Brilliant idea, cheap insurance and simple to do!
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What an awesome idea! :cheers:
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Something I forgot to share that I did when I built the chassis that was something a friend who works on Speed Demon told me to do. On all my tubing where EVERY ONE OF THEM intersect, I drilled an 1/8" hole (that was fun trying to remember even with tape and Sharpie notes reminding me!) so all the tubing is literally connected. On my very back tube, it's plugged with a thicker piece of steel with an 1/8" pipe hole in it for a shrader valve. When I get back from an event, I'll put around 5 lbs of nitrogen or some other "dry" air and watch the gauge. If it doesn't move, no frame cracks but if it does, put more air inside and walk around with a bottle full of soapy water and look for bubbles! Brilliant idea, cheap insurance and simple to do!
Porsche did that in the 1970s on their 917 tube chassis. It is a good indicator of cracks forming in the structure.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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I did it once I heard about it because I wanted a nice paint job on the chassis and still be able to find cracks just in case! The chassis is pretty beefy and the welds are first class, but I figured it's easy enough so why not.
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The magic ingredient for leak check is foaming spray Glass Cleaner. It bubbles easily at very low leak level and low pressure, and evaporates away with no messy residue.
Glass cleaner is also a really good way to inspect for wheel/tire/valve stem leaks, without sliming up stuff.
JimL
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That is a trick Mel Swain showed me a while back. Problem is, some of the tubes and connector inserts I added I did not drill. My check has to be in three sections.
I "think I remember which ones".
I don't need magic, I need protection from myself!
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The Treit Streamliner has a build diary post addressing that situation.
It showed Jason checking the gage for pressure drop.
Here is the url: http://www.target550.com/gallery/158_harness_attachments_%20pin_holes_paint/index.html
FREUD
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...the welds are first class, but I figured it's easy enough so why not...
Cool idea, but I thought you were going to put gas in there for say an air shifter or chute release as others have done. Didn't think about checking for frame cracks.
Anyone that is mig welding the frame might have some problems with this as it is a lot harder to mig weld and not have pin holes than if you are TIG welding. I love the TIG for welding without pin holes although they can still happen as I found out making some aluminum tanks :cry:
Hooley is using his front down tubes to store the oil coming off the engine breathers and there are drains at their bottoms. I guess we will know if we have frame cracks as the oil will drain out 8-),
Sum
Sum
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There were places on the Target 550 frame that brackets were removed. Some times
there were pinholes related to those places. The small plastic tube made it easy to detect
very small leaks. As you moved along you could also feel the air on your face.
I don't think I would store air in the frame rails that would be used to deploy the chutes.
If a major crack happened it could compromise the pressure for your deployment.
FREUD
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...
If a major crack happened it could compromise the pressure for your deployment.
FREUD
At that point it might be past the point of using them 8-) but something one would have to make up there mind on,
Sum
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It's sketchy enough driving something this narrow, low and fast WITHOUT filling the tubes with pressure and realizing I'm driving a really fast pipe bomb! Lol
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I had to jump on Ebay the other night after Koncretekid had the great idea of the clutch levers for my chute release! Found some 2 finger (small size!) mountain bike levers and made sure they were nylon so they could be heated and bent. The body is mounted to the down bar and with the lever bent, it's parallel with the top bar! Perfect deal! Now back to my steering!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-06_12-39-09_727_zpsff5e6ad4.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-06_12-39-09_727_zpsff5e6ad4.jpg.html)
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I do like that idea with the brake lever/s, but I would have thought you would go with something a little more robust like these levers below. I know it's just inside your car and isn't going to get a whole lot of use, but I'd hate to see that plastic lever fail at a time when you really need to pull your chute. I used to ride a lot of mountain and BMX bikes when I was younger and I have had the cable end pull right out of those plastic levers, I have also seen them bind up where you pull the lever and the lever just bends instead of moving the cable. Granted, these incidents don't occur too terribly often, but they can happen. JMO and wanted to share my experience with those plastic levers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AVID-SPEED-DIAL-7-MOUNTAIN-BIKE-BRAKE-LEVERS-PAIR-/291090633247?pt=US_Brake_Levers&hash=item43c65a921f
Scottie J
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Thanks Scottie! The ones I used are seriously beefy! Also remember, all the lever is doing is pulling a cable with zero resistance on the other end, the complete opposite of actual brakes!
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Both of the Vesco streamliners have chute releases on the steering wheel, The brakes are foot brakes ans no reason to reach for a release lever. How ever the manual overrides are right beside the steering .
keep up the good work and never shy away from asking questions. :cheers:
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Excellent build Brad.
I wish you lots of enjoyment and high speeds.
Mike. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Worked on the steering Friday and yesterday and got part of it tacked in place
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-08_18-58-33_340_zpsb26e3445.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-08_18-58-33_340_zpsb26e3445.jpg.html)
I'll finish it up as soon as I get the rest of my parts from Brett, my laser guy.
Since there's a million more things to make, I'll figure out how and where to mount the shifter. After climbing in the car, here's what I came up with
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-08_18-40-17_973_zpsc4f9c64c.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-08_18-40-17_973_zpsc4f9c64c.jpg.html) (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-08_18-39-07_978_zps32c561c9.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-08_18-39-07_978_zps32c561c9.jpg.html)
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from the " been there, built it too small had to do it over" :cry: advise crowd---- make your inner panels---now--- make them easy to remove, install the 9 point harness ASAP put the fattest driver in his fire suit and helmet as you figure out placement of stuff ----I thought I was being as careful as possible and still had to change the configuration of my front hoop at the very end---I could not get out--I could get in with every thing on but could not get the helmet from under the frt hoop. The cause: the new harness set up when all of the NEW STRAPS were installed--not just the old ones that we were building with.
The new ones we could not "rotate" our body the same!
PS that is very nice looking workmanship!!
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(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-08_18-40-17_973_zpsc4f9c64c.jpg)
That looks nice and you are really moving along :cheers:.
How wide is the inside of the car in the area from your hips to your shoulder? I'm 18 inches wide on the inside and I've tried the brake and the gear shift like you have and I can't work them since I can't bring my arm back (rotating at the shoulder) to pull on them belted in and more or less wedged in there. I can rotate my lower arm at the elbow but that doesn't work well as I don't have much strength in that direction and the angles are not right. Just curious as to how this is working for you. I'm guessing you have room beside your body to move your arm back from the shoulder and not just the elbow,
Sum
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Thanks guys! The seat is the next thing on the interior list. Sparky, thanks for the advice on the seating situation. If you noticed on the one pic I posted I have plenty of headroom so getting out isn't a big deal. The car is wider than I would've liked, but that's what I needed for the 1 engine I wanted to run! When I'm laying in the car Sumner, the steering is right at my crotch. The brake and shifter are at the same distance (down/away) from my shoulders, so pulling them is actually very easy. My arms/elbows aren't bunched up at all if that makes any sense.
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.When I'm laying in the car ...... My arms/elbows aren't bunched up at all if that makes any sense.
Yes that clears it up. You must be a little wider than I am inside. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something before I explored other options.
I am down to the last 5 feet of re-flooring the whole house and then it is back to the car :-). Two areas I'll get cleared up first will be the cage area and all the controls. Then the very back of the car and how I'm handling the chute/chutes and the chute doors and their deployment so that I'll still be able to keep the back of the car closed in. Then it will be on to cutting the car in half and adding 3 feet.
Sum
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The area where the shifter and brake are mounted is 18 1/2" wide. It's a small bit wider at the shoulders.
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Jeez Sum, that's ALL you have to do? I thought you had a LOT left to do! Lol. I'm doing everything I can to make EVERYTHING work in this small space because the car CAN'T be made bigger/taller/wider! I'm going after Jack and it has to stay very petite and tight. My frontal area is not quite 4.9 sq. ft. and needs to stay that way...
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.... I thought you had a LOT left to do! Lol. ....
Actually lots and lots to do :cry:.
....My frontal area is not quite 4.9 sq. ft. and needs to stay that way...
I'm right at 5.4 sq. ft. for the body and side pods plus another small factor that will account for over 60% of my drag and that is those darn wheels and tires 8-)
Sum
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Decided to do some pedals today. The buggy master cylinder/pedal assembly I snagged was cool, but the pedals definitely had to go! After hacking up the original to fit where and how it needed, I made a pattern up and carved one out of aluminum. Now it fits like I want and is way lighter!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-09_17-49-22_97_zps4948fd03.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-09_17-49-22_97_zps4948fd03.jpg.html) (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-09_17-35-58_149_zps8eac86c1.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-09_17-35-58_149_zps8eac86c1.jpg.html)
Now just need to weld a spacer on the bottom, make a bronze insert and finish up the throttle pedal .
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Hi Brad,
Yep, you're a clever one, just stunning work.
Skip
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Attachment of pedal "pad" to its arm isn't visible?
Will the arm get welded to its shaft?
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Yes, the pad is tack welded on the other side. It'll be fully welded once I finish both spacers (throttle too) and a few other things. No, it will pivot on the shaft.
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Had and hr. and a half to kill this afternoon, so I whipped up the throttle pedal. Thought it came out cool for one piece of aluminum! Need to finish welding the bottom spacers then put bushings in. One more thing out of the way.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-11_17-34-25_997_zpsf568786e.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-11_17-34-25_997_zpsf568786e.jpg.html)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-11_17-41-10_95_zpsd5ef3563.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-11_17-41-10_95_zpsd5ef3563.jpg.html)
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What grade of aluminum are you using? Are you normalizing it (heating it to take the temper out of it) before you're bending it?
Tom
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1/4" 5052... It's about the only one you can bend without it cracking or breaking. I'll build stops on both of those pedals so I don't kill them by pushing down too hard. It takes quite a bit to bend it, but it does very nicely.
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By the look of your liner you've killed a lot of hours. :-D
Nice work Brad. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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1/4" 5052... It's about the only one you can bend without it cracking or breaking. I'll build stops on both of those pedals so I don't kill them by pushing down too hard. It takes quite a bit to bend it, but it does very nicely.
Thanks. I did a little research on the alloys of Aluminum and found a good summary on MetalsOnline.com. The 5052 they sell is H32 treated which is "Strain hardened and stabilized by low temperature heating to 1/4 hard" It has a yield strength of about 28,000 psi compared to 6061-T6, which has a yield strength of about 40,000 psi. I know that 6061-T6 can be cold bent carefully around a radius, but not sharply. I have successfully bent 1/8" thick flat bar around a 1" diameter mandrel, and 1/4" around a 4" mandrel, but trying to bend it sharply, as in a vise, will crack or break it. It can be annealed (I said "normalized" in my above question, but that apparently only applies to carbon steel) by heating to the correct temperature, even after cooling, for bending more sharply. I believe it will air harden in time, but I'm not sure if it will attain the same strength.
I had not tried 5052, but you have shown it can be bent more easily than the more common 6061. The article also mentioned that 6061 can be annodized, but it didn't mention annodizing 5052.
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Hey Koncrete! You did way more research than I did! I knew that 6061 didn't bend without cracking/breaking and 5052 had no issues, so I went with that. I'm not too sure about anodizing, but since it's aluminum I don't see why it wouldn't work!
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Brad;
You can bend any aluminum alloy, it's just a matter of how big a radius you need. The most common 6061-T6 is bendable but you need a much greater radius than lower strength stuff like 5052, 3003, etc.
If you want an alloy that is super tough, use 2024-T3 or 7075-T6. They need such a large bending radius and so much force to bend that they are used mostly in flat sheet applications.
Bending radius charts can be found with Google.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Subscribing to this thread. Good job Brad! :cheers:
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Wow, you guys are on it! I knew enough to sort of keep myself out of trouble but I never really seriously researched aluminum and what it's bending/breaking point was. I knew I could use the 5052 for making my handles, pedals and a few other miscellaneous parts. I have 7075 for my rear bearing carriers, hubs and knew that's what we're cutting the front wheels out of. I figured the interior would be 3003, but not sure what I'm making my tanks out of yet. My welder friend makes aluminum aircraft tanks for a living so I figured I'd go with what he tells me.
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Since we are talking about aluminum. What grade & what rod can be welded & polished with little color difference? Low stress apps like valve covers.
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Just got my front arms back from Mike the welder, they look awesome!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-22_13-57-49_797_zpscf31342b.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-22_13-57-49_797_zpscf31342b.jpg.html)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-22_13-57-31_400_zps81286921.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-22_13-57-31_400_zps81286921.jpg.html)
When I get my spindle supports back from him Tuesday, I'll finish my steering up! In the meantime, I'm doing the rear swing arm brackets and mounts. Hopefully this thing's a roller before long!
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I'm pretty sure all aluminum can be polished. As far as trying to "match" it up to cast, I would imagine it's all going to be a little off as far as a color difference.
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Worked on steering the last few days and holy crap, what a pain!!! This was kind of like painting myself into a corner except worse! I'm always trying to think 10 moves ahead to save myself lots of headaches down the road and this was no exception. This whole suspension/steering deal is in a 9 1/2" wide area (measure that out and you'll realize how crazy it is) and it had to work smoothly and minimal to no bumpsteer. I made a little jig to build my steering arms to. They had to be 7" centers to match the suspension arms that way they are in the same plane.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-29_15-17-16_860_zps64ad929e.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-29_15-17-16_860_zps64ad929e.jpg.html)
I also had to trim and bend the spindle arm.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-29_15-17-46_402_zps6813c1d2.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-29_15-17-46_402_zps6813c1d2.jpg.html)
After making some pieces up to keep everything square and parallel with the bottom rails, I made my steering mounts.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-01_16-53-02_716_zps2dd1728a.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-01_16-53-02_716_zps2dd1728a.jpg.html)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-02_16-39-58_270_zpsd4edfa49.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-02_16-39-58_270_zpsd4edfa49.jpg.html)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-02_16-40-17_581_zps3d126e7c.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-02_16-40-17_581_zps3d126e7c.jpg.html)
So far so good!
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I'm impressed, maybe even dazzled with this build. Keep up the great work. My mental filing cabinet is being replenished! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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You said it Pete. :cheers:
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Thanks guys!
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Brad, you're flying along and the work is fantastic.
You're committed 100%. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Yep, I 100% SHOULD be committed! :-D
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Most of us need to be committed lol. Beautiful work Brad
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Thank you!
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It's not pinned or finish welded, but here's the back part of the steering all mocked up.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-05_17-25-00_165_zps83d7fbd4.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-05_17-25-00_165_zps83d7fbd4.jpg.html)
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In my opinion, steering always seems to be the most difficult part of any build. Looks great Brad! Keep up the hard work and keep those pictures coming! :cheers:
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It's not pinned or finish welded, but here's the back part of the steering all mocked up.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-05_17-25-00_165_zps83d7fbd4.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-05_17-25-00_165_zps83d7fbd4.jpg.html)
Is the horizontal shaft the steering shaft? If so, when you turn the wheel, or bars, the rearward wheel turns more than the forward wheel (shorter radius), is that correct? I can't see the rest of the mechanism, so I'm guessing.
Tom
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Yes, the horizontal one is the steering shaft. As far as the steering goes, they're both on the same plane so they turn evenly. It looks complicated but it really isn't too bad.
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Is that bag of snakes what I have ahead of me?. :-D
It looks special, I'll give you that.
The quality of the materials and parts is way up there. :cheers:
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Worked on the back suspension a bit yesterday. I took some brackets that my friend Brett laser cut, put a support tube in the middle and tacked them together
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-12_15-29-59_157_zps17a66fe0.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-12_15-29-59_157_zps17a66fe0.jpg.html)
Here they are with the swingarm pivot shaft
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-12_15-30-28_151_zps72b3cfc3.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-12_15-30-28_151_zps72b3cfc3.jpg.html)
And mocked up on the frame
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-12_15-28-43_284_zps8ec2c0ec.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-12_15-28-43_284_zps8ec2c0ec.jpg.html)
It's slowly coming together!
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Very nice work!!!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-12_15-28-43_284_zps8ec2c0ec.jpg)
Is the swing arm going to be trapped between the mounts or is there a way to remove it? I've tried to keep everything where it can come apart as salt/rust will get into everything.
If it is trapped how about the mounts welded to a flat plate and then a second flat plate welded to the frame so that the two plates could be bolted together. You could then separated the plates and slide the mounts off the swing arm ends. Just a suggestion, you probably already have this all worked out,
Sum
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Hey Sum! Thank you sir! The mounts will be fully welded then welded to the frame. To remove the swingarm, you just have to take the nuts off the shaft (which is hard chromed so no rust) and slide it out! It's actually pretty simple. Now I'll build the swingarm (around the tube), bearing carriers and shock mounts.
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I also scored the domain name "breakingwindstreamliner.com" so I have somewhere to sell shirts and other merchandise once we finish the website up. I have a couple other artists besides myself for a bunch of different styles! Should be fun!
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... To remove the swingarm, you just have to take the nuts off the shaft (which is hard chromed so no rust) and slide it out! It's actually pretty simple. Now I'll build the swingarm (around the tube), bearing carriers and shock mounts.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-12_15-30-28_151_zps72b3cfc3.jpg)
Good deal, I was thinking that was all one piece and didn't realize that it had a separate center shaft. My bad :cry:. Should work great the way you have it.
Put up a link when you have the shirts and so forth up. I'd like to see them
Sumner
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The shirts and goodies will be after the car is painted and lettered so it all looks right! Here's some of my latest shirt artwork so you guys will know how crazy it'll be when "Breaking Wind"!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/shirt8_zpsa4320c4f.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/shirt8_zpsa4320c4f.jpg.html)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/Shirtartblack_zps8e5b67a6.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Shirtartblack_zps8e5b67a6.jpg.html)
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Killer build!
What's going to power it> I didn't see that in the thread
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Thank you! It'll be 1000cc's of something! I'm still pondering what I'll use, but in the meantime I'll keep gluing stuff together!
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... some of my latest shirt artwork...
Who is the artist- you? It's impressive!
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Yep, that's me! When I'm not doing pinstriping and lettering or building stuff, I'm doing shirt artwork. I do all sorts of goofy things!
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Bitchin' art work Brad! Jack of all trades, I see. :cheers:
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I enjoy your build. Thank you for posting it. Your artwork looks great :cheers: Maybe you could help Slim with the Salt Talk shirts :roll:
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Great artwork...
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/shirt8_zpsa4320c4f.jpg)
I'll have to add for anyone not familiar with the truck on the shirt.... "do not walk along side of one of these trucks when they are loaded". That might not be dirt in the foreground by the truck :-D,
Sum
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Bull S*it :-D
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Very true! :-D
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Yep, that's me! When I'm not doing pinstriping and lettering or building stuff, I'm doing shirt artwork. I do all sorts of goofy things!
Nothing goofy about what you do. That's awesome work. :cheers:
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Thank you sir!
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Got the swingarm brackets welded up and tacked on the chassis this afternoon.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-14_17-44-13_130_zps7e8d949c.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-14_17-44-13_130_zps7e8d949c.jpg.html)
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Tell Slim I'd be more than happy to help him on his shirt artwork! On a side note, I also did the artwork for the High Desert Racers...
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Started building the rear suspension yesterday! Got the swingarm put together and all the inside welding done (I do the crap that nobody sees!) and the axle mounts tacked up. I welded caps on the axle end of the swingarm to keep the salt out and will cover the top, bottom and front with .100 plate to seal everything up and so it'll have ZERO flex!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-19_14-34-14_227-1_zpse5f7dcf0.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-19_14-34-14_227-1_zpse5f7dcf0.jpg.html)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-19_19-13-59_621_zps1783597f.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-19_19-13-59_621_zps1783597f.jpg.html)
Getting closer to being a roller!
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Brad, you're flying along.
Nicely done man. :cheers:
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Thank you sir! I'll probably cruise the brown beast out to Elmo next month so if anyone sees me yell, I'd love to meet you! Here's the beast...
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-20_15-05-02_447_zps9436ded4.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-01-20_15-05-02_447_zps9436ded4.jpg.html)
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Finished boxing in the swingarm and now it's ready for final welding!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-21_17-41-03_652_zps0415eb95.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-21_17-41-03_652_zps0415eb95.jpg.html)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-21_17-41-14_976_zpsaf245047.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-21_17-41-14_976_zpsaf245047.jpg.html)
Now to finish the upper shock mounts
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Way to go Brad.
:cheers:
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This project just gets nicer and nicer. I really like your nice clean craftsman like approach. Keep up the GREAT work. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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brad pm sent
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Finished tacking in the upper shock mounts on the rear suspension.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-26_12-23-17_229_zpsbffabca4.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-26_12-23-17_229_zpsbffabca4.jpg.html) (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-26_13-01-26_163_zpsce511d5a.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-26_13-01-26_163_zpsce511d5a.jpg.html)
Getting closer to being a roller!
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Awesome work. :cheers:
Do you have any drawings/renderings of what she'll look like when finished?.
I'd really love to see that. :wink:
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The bottom of page 4 is the only thing I've sketched the shows my idea. The painting part will be lots of fun 'cuz that's what I do!
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I don't know how I missed that sketch.
It looks great and my reason for asking was because you paint etc.
It's going to look great for sure.
I also do a little painting but not on that scale. :-D
Thanks Brad.
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Not sure yet how I'll do the name lettering style. The version in the drawing was a quick computer deal and not quite the style I wanted. Thank you! Today was a good day as I got my bearing carriers this morning from my friend Mike Harper (of Romic Shocks) after he whittled them out of some 7075!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-28_13-09-03_727_zps84574913.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-28_13-09-03_727_zps84574913.jpg.html)
They came out AWESOME and the bearings fit perfectly! I slid them in place and stuck some bolts in see how they fit
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-28_13-10-46_21_zps8e6e292a.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-28_13-10-46_21_zps8e6e292a.jpg.html)
I then slid the axle (not cut to length yet) to see how it fit
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-28_13-09-38_939_zps1a474867.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-28_13-09-38_939_zps1a474867.jpg.html)
I'm diggin' the feel!!
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My friend Big Mike (Loyd) is now coming in to finish welding all my tacks, other Mike (Harper) is doing the rear hubs and it will soon be a roller! Was talking to my composite guys last week about the next step with the body. I'm getting excited!
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Looking great! Does Romic still play with mountainbike shocks? They did years ago but am curious now.
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Not so much with the mountain bike stuff now, once everyone started importing them! Thank goodness there's LOTS of parts for us to play with!
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Was a little weird taking the whole chassis apart today. Mike is coming over Monday to finish weld all the suspension mounts and various brackets. It's a stripped naked bare chassis again which looks a little weird. Hey it's almost a roller!
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I know how you feel; my chassis is also stripped bare and I'm doing the final welding on it. After it is sandblasted, primed & painted it will look a lot better! Then all the stuff gets put back together and it will start to look like a racecar again. :cheers:
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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I figured this will be the first of many times it will get put together and taken back apart just to get it right. And we wonder why we "enjoy" this stuff! :)
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So now I'm sending my front wheel design to my guys to be FEA tested to keep the momentum on that part going! Still moving forward on lots of little things. This thing is going to be a blast!
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If you think this is fun, and it is, wait until you crank it over and it comes alive and moves under its own power. :cheers:
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The "fun" I really want is too do, is have to pay a visit to "Warnerville"!
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The first visit is good but the second one is better. :cheers:
Don
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I bet it is!!
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Out at Elmo today! Was fun 'til it got called for wind! For the last month and a half this desert has sucked (blows) with all the wind we've had! Met some new people and heard some compliments on the liner which definitely made my day (thanks Fred!)!
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Sorry to hear about the lousy weather.
The compliments you get will keep you motivated all the way.
I can't wait to see what the car looks like when you get it back. :cheers:
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Quick question... Could I drag my roller out to Elmo for the next meet and have the tech guys check it out? I can grab a log book and start checking things off. I wanted to get the tubing size and thickness (still stamped on the tubing) checked off before it's all painted and done. What does this entail on my part? When are all the other cars done being teched so stragglers like me can show up? Any ideas? Thanks
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Brad, when do you get it back?.
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The chassis is still sitting on my table. It's all being built and welded where it's at! I'll put the front suspension back on the end of this week and the rear stuff this weekend!
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The Tech people are very cooperative. They would probably come and check it at your place.
Just ask to find out.
FREUD
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Freud, what about mine?. :-D 8-) :lol:
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You can always ask. They may not have proper
shoes for walking below the equator.
FREUD
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Brad, sorry about the thread jack but I couldn't resist.
Freud, we have M/T experimental or Goodyear.
Let them choose. :-D :-D :-D
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Awesome! I want a pair!
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Brad, sorry about the thread jack but I couldn't resist.
Freud, we have M/T experimental or Goodyear.
Let them choose. :-D :-D :-D
Pretty sure that's all Nate Stewart wears! :-D
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No pictures, but got a bunch of stuff done today! Trying to make things such as steering (at the moment) with backup/redundant fasteners/welds, that way if something actually fails I can actually get the car safely stopped. My thinking is better safe than sorry!
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Hi
You putting a twostroke in it?
Richard
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You putting a twostroke in it? Maybe.. :-) Got the front suspension back in after all the brackets and mounts were final welded and also worked on the rear a little. Mike Harper is making my rear hubs, so had to do a quick mock-up and see how it all fits in the back.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05-27_12-20-39_42_zpsac88877a.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05-27_12-20-39_42_zpsac88877a.jpg.html)
Starting to look like a race car!
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I know a tech guy that could look at it. 2stroke Brad?? :roll: should of had a v8
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Big day today, took it off the table! Too freakin' cool!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2555_zps3dd05ba2.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2555_zps3dd05ba2.jpg.html) (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2556_zps0c715f51.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2556_zps0c715f51.jpg.html) (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-06-07_15-07-20_203_zps2f0b9b45.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-06-07_15-07-20_203_zps2f0b9b45.jpg.html) (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2560_zps5aa21a5a.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2560_zps5aa21a5a.jpg.html)
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Way to go Brad. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
I think you already broke a record!.
And if you're using a 2 stroke like you said, power to you my brother.
Awesome, awesome build.
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Awesome Brad!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
That thing is fast standing still with no body or power. Think how it'll go when it's finished!
Pete
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Was such an awesome feeling to see it FINALLY on the ground! You couldn't wipe the stupid grin off my face!
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10lbs. of crap stuffed in a sandwich bag!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2576_zps5e170a72.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2576_zps5e170a72.jpg.html)
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Brad, I have fallen asleep in my car before but I never had a pillow :cheers:
I am studying your swing up steering wheel system very closely. Mine is very flimsy and I have been asked to "refine it "LOL. How will it interact with the canopy?
Congrats on the milestone and Again :cheers:
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I haven't finished the back "seat" tubes which is why the pillows are there! The steering setup is more than stiff enough and I'm still figuring out the canopy in my head! I'll make it work.
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Getting in the car
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2559_zps42278593.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2559_zps42278593.jpg.html)
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Thanks, I look forward to seeing your solution to:
"the canopy shall not be attached to the steering mechanism"
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Rule book pg 25--2.M canopies cannot be attached to the steering. :cheers:
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Guys... C'mon, do you honestly think I haven't memorized every inch of the rule book?! The canopy will be part of the body and a totally separate deal from the chassis! I got it covered! :-D
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Rule book pg 25--2.M canopies cannot be attached to the steering. :cheers:
That's another rule that I'd like to hear the backstory on (assuming there is one).
Mike
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Brad we had no doubt you had it covered---I am looking forward to seeing how your superior fab skills are going to do it ---so it will inspire me---thanks
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Looks killer Brad! Got the mouse crap outta my GMC so hope to have it in the shop this week! You are an inspiration on both of my projects!
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Sparky, I will do my best to inspire you! Tman, thank you for the compliment...wow! You guys made my day!
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Just awesome, love the steering.
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Dude if I had any part of making your day---you are easy!!! lol
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Pushed the 'liner out into the sunshine for the first time today ... it liked it!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-06-11_13-40-26_29_zps931e7a50.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-06-11_13-40-26_29_zps931e7a50.jpg.html)
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That looks good Brad.
It's way smaller when its on the ground don't you think?.
Great build brother.
Keep up the good work.
You're flying at top speed. :cheers:
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Your engineering and fab skills are out of this world :cheers: Thank you so much for sharing your build with the LR community. This build takes quality and speed to the next level.
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:cheers:
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Rule book pg 25--2.M canopies cannot be attached to the steering. :cheers:
That's another rule that I'd like to hear the backstory on (assuming there is one).
Mike
When we asked about our plan to use an electromagnet as a canopy latch Lee Kennedy said it was fine as the canopy was one of the first things to detach in a crash anyway no matter what the holding device. That may be the reason for the rule.
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I'm not arguing but how much steering do you think you'll be doing if you crash hard enough to tear the canopy off? :? Wayno
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I'm not arguing but how much steering do you think you'll be doing if you crash hard enough to tear the canopy off? :? Wayno
I agree about the 'steering after the crash' but there have been some canopy's either blown off or that have opened just due to the air pressure or lack of it on one side.
I was re-reading some of my BRN papers and yesterday reread the report from Rocky on their 360 mph motorcycle record in 2008 and the canopy unlatched some and lifted some on both of the record runs. If it would of been attached to the steering then it could of possibly caused a crash but it didn't. They felt there was enough low pressure inside the streamliner that it caused the canopy to deform and lift if I read it right,
Sum
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One of the reasons for my self called "goofy looking canopy" is trying to address the low pressure area that is at the back of most canopies. I have watched lots of film, lots of pretty fast cars and bikes have canopies that are sucking up and out at speed.
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Kennedy said that canopies opening because of pressure differentials was a concern.
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Now it makes sense to me. 8-) :cheers: Wayno
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How and why they open is for 2 reasons ... A crappy latching design and/too big of an intake blowing air into the drivers area. Stuffing a mass amount of high pressure air inside the car and it's definitely going to be pushing and shoving on the canopy and latch setup! I don't see how high pressure behind it pushing out would be considered "low pressure". I'll be using the aircraft/funny car hatch latches on my canopy... flush and positive locking!
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... I don't see how high pressure behind it pushing out would be considered "low pressure". ..
It is going to depend on the car but if you look at some cars from the side they look very similar to a wing with the flat bottom of the car being the bottom of the wing and the curved upper body front to back mimicking the upper side of the wing. In the case of the wing it is the low pressure area on the top which keeps the plane in the air.
The front of a canopy should probably be a high pressure area, but the top could become a low pressure area that wants to suck the canopy up. So you don't necessarily have to have a high pressure area in the cockpit from outside air coming it to have a lower pressure on top of the canopy, although for the driver it probably is good to have a positive pressure in there.
Most latches will probably be more than adequate as long as the canopy maintains its width at the point where they latch and isn't drawn in by the upward pull if a low pressure does exist.
The car looks great,
Sum
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You might give a thought to the instance where in a crash the canopy opens/leaves the vehicle and the steering system goes with it. There is strong tendency for the limbs of the driver to exit the vehicle resulting in severe injuries.
DW
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Don't worry Dan, the steering and canopy are completely separate! If I'm killed because it's my time to go, so be it but I definitely DON'T want to be the guy famous for dying because he was STUPID! Every bit of this car is built to be as safe (and bitchin') as it can possibly be!
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Don Vesco told us that our canopy latching system won't matter when the car goes sideways.... or spins... the canopy is going to open and likely tear off. So far on the little car he is 5 for 5.... the big car pictures show it rolled once prior to the canopy exiting.
I suspect that the rule has been written with someone's blood, good plan to keep them separated Brad. It is obvious that the guy building that car is anything but stupid!
:cheers:
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Ok, so enough with the canopy comments cuz I think we got it handled! So here's the next really cool thing! I've teamed up with Sage Cheshire Aerospace with the design and build of my body! They built the capsule and did the whole deal when Felix Baumgarter did the 130000ft freefall out of the Red Bull Stratos! Beyond amazing guys! So anyway, they've taken my initial drawing, made a 3D model and have been playing with CFD stuff (i.e. pressure tests, drag CD, etc) to take the body design to within a gnats ass! Once everything is fine tuned, they'll carve the body plug out of foam on a 5 axis CNC mill! Crazy cool stuff and I'm beyond honored that they believed in a pretty much goofy pinstriper and his crazy ideas and game plan! I've ALSO teamed up with an amazing engine builder who's on the same plane as me to push his stuff to the absolute edge! I feel so privelaged to be teamed up with this absolutely AMAZING group of guys and the potential they're helping give me! Stay tuned for more craziness!!!
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Now that is how LSR's "get by with a little help from their friends" :cheers:
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Don't worry Dan, the steering and canopy are completely separate! If I'm killed because it's my time to go, so be it but I definitely DON'T want to be the guy famous for dying because he was STUPID! Every bit of this car is built to be as safe (and bitchin') as it can possibly be!
You gotta love Brad!!!!! Go Brad go. 8-)
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Congrats on all the help Brad! :cheers: Out here in the sticks the 3 shop cats and I are covering all bases. They chase mice, I work.
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My shop cat is not mine---he hides in the yard under things and sleeps in Andy's old 56 next door that has no window---he is a refugee from the great horned owl we see from time to time and the coyotes pack that lives under the golf coarse in its huge storm drain system.
I do enjoy not having kangaroo or so called pack rats though.
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Good news Brad. Should be fast.
BR
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Good things happen to good people. :cheers: :cheers:
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:cheers:
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Thanks Guys!
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Took the car out to El Mirage and figured I'd have the tech guys take a peek at what I've done and see what kind of input I'd get.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-06-21_14-52-23_894_zpsb60a5e86.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-06-21_14-52-23_894_zpsb60a5e86.jpg.html)
Can you believe the 2 tech guys that I'd needed to see apparently had truck trouble and couldn't make it today! That was worth a good chuckle! Met lots of really awesome guys who had some great opinions to throw into the mix (I wish I could remember all their names...Derek MacLeish, Jim Miller, Ron Main were some) and heard some really great ideas! Very cool day!
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sorta looks like it is going to be right at home there :cheers:
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Brad, it seems like you're making all the right moves.
The car has been on its first outing already and the guys you met must help the motivation. :cheers:
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Mike,
Would it be cheaper/easier, for you to put your car in a container and ship it over here or just ship one of the inspectors to South Africa to get a pre-inspection like that?
Doug :-D :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Was hoping to get over to look at it and didn't get the chance
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Mike,
Would it be cheaper/easier, for you to put your car in a container and ship it over here or just ship one of the inspectors to South Africa to get a pre-inspection like that?
Doug :-D :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
I'd like to put all my belongings in a container............. :-D
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Finished the hinged steering latch today. I sorta took a break on the car, to work on my '49 pickup and get it dialed in for Speed Week and we know how that turned out! Sheesh! So anyways, got back at it building pieces and parts. Originally I was going to use funny car hatch latches but a little input when I took it out to El Mirage was the direction I went. I took some 5/8" bar stock, drilled a 5/16" hole down the center and cut 4 pieces 1" long. I chucked up 2 of them in the mill and put a 5/16" by 3/8" deep notch in them
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_125826661_zps338a6468.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_125826661_zps338a6468.jpg.html)
I then made the latching rod out of 5/16" hardened bar stock. Took a 2" chunk and tig'd it at a 90 degree from the longer piece
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_133640178_zps9ecadd70.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_133640178_zps9ecadd70.jpg.html)
Once I had them tacked in place, I put a spring, an AN washer and drilled the rod for a hitch pin to hold them in place
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_183053831_HDR_zps64eda2a3.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_183053831_HDR_zps64eda2a3.jpg.html)
I then built a tab that went on the steering frame, welded a 3/8" long receiver tube on to the end of it
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_183042412_zps41d33d88.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_183042412_zps41d33d88.jpg.html)
With it tacked in place and the latch locked in
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_182924591_HDR_zps1d611e77.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_182924591_HDR_zps1d611e77.jpg.html)
The rod slid back out of the notch and slid up and the latch is released
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_182954508_zpsbaec531b.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140823_182954508_zpsbaec531b.jpg.html)
I'm stoked, it works awesome and both sides are nice and smooth! Now to finish welding it!
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:cheers: good to see you back on it!!
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Brad. I hope you plan to shorten the handle a little, just a thought, you don't want that deep of a hole in you should things turn ugly...
I can hardly wait to see this one go... nice work :cheers:
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Ugly? What could go wrong?
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When you're getting in or out of the car they're folded towards the outside. When I'm in the car and strapped in place I shouldn't be able to actually turn them until my arm restraints (seatbelts) are undone. When I'm strapped in they're not an issue.
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Glad to see you working on it Brad. Read your truck thread yesterday over coffee for inspiration since I am back working on my GMC!
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Thanks Tman! That was a lot of coffee!!
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Yo Stainless! So you didn't worry about me, I took a half hr. and did a quick fix. Took a piece of 1/2" round stock, drilled a hole in the center and cut (2) 1/4" long pieces off. A quick Tig weld on the end, ground it smooth and now no worry about Brad ending up with extra orifices! :-D
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140824_123050168_zps06c55d50.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140824_123050168_zps06c55d50.jpg.html)
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Brad, I don't want to be thought of as piling on here so please take this as constructive criticism or at least something for other to consider when building a similar system. There is nothing in the rules that make what you're doing illegal; but think about trying to exit in a mishap. In the hurry to escape the vehicle when vision can be obscured by smoke, fire, or even salt in the eyes, try not to have items protruding into the cockpit that might grab your firesuit to hinder your rapid exit. It works well in it's "as designed" form but keep in mind less obvious issues that could cause problems.
Your chassis is of superb construction so again please don't take my comment as rock throwing.
Best of luck with your project.
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Hey Mike! Thanks for the input (honestly never thought about salt in the eyes, crazy!) on what I'm doing. Yesterday I pretty much spent the day getting in and out of the car (with and without the helmet) laying out the structure for the seat. While in the car, I closed my eyes more than once and went through the routine (and still figuring where I'll mount the fire bottle handles) and how I I'll get out of the car in a hurry. My latch handles may change again just depending on how the body fits. Everything about building one of these cars is a never ending change (even if only a little bit) from the initial game plan. Thank you again for the input!
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Brad, your second last sentence is right on. :-D
Man, the long cars are no joke.
I'm tacking bits on out of fear. :-D
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... I pretty much spent the day getting in and out of the car (with and without the helmet)...
Thanks for the updates. Do you have a -20 fire suit yet? If not I'd try and buy or borrow one during this process of figuring out cockpit controls/belts/exit/etc.. Before getting the suit...
(http://pro.clothing/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/bd8bbaec3450.jpg)
... I had one of these thick quilted work overalls that I used. It isn't quite as thick as a 20 suit but close. I had one since I lived in Wyoming, being as you are in Calif. probably no need for one but maybe you could find a used one cheap,
Sum
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A friend of mine who raced funny cars has let me use his 20 suit (pants, jacket, gloves, shoes). It changed a couple things with my basic layout but so far, so good! It's definitely something you need when doing one of these cars because a heavy jacket and regular clothes isn't really the same.
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Spent the afternoon at Sage Cheshire Aerospace with Art and Jon while they worked on the Chassis. Jon set up the laser and proceeded to scan every inch of it so he had a complete 3D model of it to use for the CFD and Aero tests! I'm beyond honored and humbled to be involved with a great group of guys who are just as excited about this project as I am!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/IMG_20140828_170538660_zpsffea6f75.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/IMG_20140828_170538660_zpsffea6f75.jpg.html)(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/IMG_20140828_183017294_HDR_zps6f54448b.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/IMG_20140828_183017294_HDR_zps6f54448b.jpg.html)(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/IMG_20140828_183040283_zpsf4dd9dbf.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/IMG_20140828_183040283_zpsf4dd9dbf.jpg.html)(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/IMG_20140828_185058458_HDR_zpsc1302d92.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/IMG_20140828_185058458_HDR_zpsc1302d92.jpg.html)
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Take advantage of all the technology available ... Good deal.
Joe
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Wowie zowie that stuff is HI tech
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Just awesome Brad. That is one heck of a crew to have. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Thanks Tman! That was a lot of coffee!!
One LARGE mug!
And the laser stuff is wayyy cool!
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Climbed in and out of the car yesterday probably 25 times with and without the driving suit on trying to fine tune my seating position. What a pain! Finally got the angle right and started putting tubing in place. The weirdest part is figuring out the seat belt attachment points and trying to keep them in the correct spot.
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I'm hoping you find a solution.
Do you find that every time you get in it feels different?.
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Sometimes you can't always be space age, high tech! This was how I was test fitting the angle of the seat until I got it right.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/_20140831_091838_zpse3a02cb9.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/_20140831_091838_zpse3a02cb9.jpg.html)
It actually stops at the last vertical tube in the "living quarters" as far as that part of the seat goes. The rest goes from there to the back of the cage. I kept feeling under my back at the lower area where it makes the transition to make sure I had no gaps and was supported from my butt to my shoulders. Now I'm working on the part behind it that supports my head. LOTS of duct tape and whatever is laying around!
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At my garage I thought this is how everyone did it. :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D
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Wow Brad you have really made some great progress on this build! And it looks like you have a fantastic crew with some extremely high tech equipment. Very cool stuff. 8-)
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SFI 20 suit, laydown seat, head restraint systems, and 7-9 point harness ---yep it gets frustrating to get them ALL working together with out driving one batty :cheers:
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Finished seat tubing, just needs final welding!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140831_174848649_HDR_zps716ce68b.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140831_174848649_HDR_zps716ce68b.jpg.html)(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140831_174840699_zps5e622070.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140831_174840699_zps5e622070.jpg.html)
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What did we ever do before the "Sharpie"? :? :? :-D
Pete
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welding chalk :?
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Grease pencil? :?
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Gee Brad, that's a recliner. Not a seat in sight. :-D
Happy you got it sorted.
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The "recliner" with some cardboard for reference.(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/MG_20140831_175159340_zps926ab1dc.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/MG_20140831_175159340_zps926ab1dc.jpg.html)
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Gives a better idea of how small and low she is.
Awesome build man.
I love it. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Hmmm I think this guy "Gets It"
smallest, cleanest car possible, + BIG HP should = BIG #s :-D
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I want my own mailbox in "Warnerville"!
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I hope you made all the right engine sounds when you were doing the seat fitting?.
It's way more fun that way. :evil: :-D
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LOL I can't think of any higher goal in LSR than to have your own address within the "Mayor's" township! :-D
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You know I made ALL the noises while in the car! Usually go through the whole routine of throttle, shifting, clutch in, chutes, etc. while in there! Then I close my eyes and go through my exit strategy so getting out is second nature. As far as the "Warnerville" deal, that is my goal! My idea of Bonneville "fun" is to have Dan tired of seeing my ugly mug in his "town"...
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Looks great! Here's something that haunts us every time we run a new cable or wire. Try to make an accommodation for wires, tubes or cables that have to go past the driver's compartment. Things get so tight that it's a real pain. Maybe make a place for passing future stuff fore and aft. Brake lines, clutch lines, shift cables, wiring, fire lines, etc., vents, etc. Things get tight real quick.
Doug :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Will not happen--just remember to come bearing a host gift!
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Having never built a /S, fitting of components and wiring wasn't that challenging, but I
definitely agree with BuickGuy on having alternate conduit passages for future changes.
You've done an amazing job, Brad. Can't wait to see the finished product!
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It's funny you guys are talking about this, because I was plotting out my morse cables and water hose routes too. It really is amazing how fast real estate goes away in these things! I will say, doing a streamliner compared to a "normal" car is a whole different mindset because nothing works the same way. Thanks for the input guys and for the kind words!
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some of my stuff goes through the frame rails that that runs front to back chute cables and metal brake lines that are in plastic tubing for vibration protection.
-- I have provided for 2, 1.5" .062 that runs from back in the eng bay to in front of my fire wall . I only have one active electrical It is up off the bottom of the car so that if there was ever a massive leak no fuel could get to it . On the drivers side it is wrapped and taped to seal from a low press being able to pull through. In the bay area it is sealed with fire sealant----yes it is a pain but it really is a lesson I learned on my first car it does not eliminate all---some of the others that just go trough the fire wall and are sealed.
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Next step is to start working on the seatbelt layout. I have the shoulder harness mount situated and will bend up my side bars to mount the lap belts up. My only concern is with the antisubmarine (crotch) belt. Looking at the diagram in the rulebook it shows it aimed FORWARD of my laying down position. I'm going to need to talk with John and Lee because looking at that layout will allow me to slide forward and there's no way I want to be moving at all once I'm winched down. I know how I'd like to do it, because the seatbelts are everything and there is no secondary system to hold my body from moving even an inch!
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the anti straps are butt straps you "sit" in them the forward strap that anchors down between your knees and ankles hold the lap belt down
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I'm referring to the secondary strap.
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mine anchor at the same point as my lap belt and come toward the center then up between my legs to tie into the lap belt latch, they are the 5&6 belt; the 7th ties into the latch and goes forward as I mentioned earlier
they function just like the between the leg straps on a parachute
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Brad, the forward "anti-submarine" strap is actually to keep you from sliding rearward and crushing your little skull in the cage. :wink: Wayno
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I pretty sure that would be the job of my shoulder harnesses to keep my skull from getting squished! Lol
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Brad, that is correct. The anti-submarine belt connects to the shoulder harnesses at the buckle and accomplishes that task. Make sense? By the way, good looking build. :cheers: Wayno
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Brad;
Check the Simpson website- it has the best diagrams of the safety harness mounting bolt locations that I've found.
BTW, even the latest rule book shoulder harness bolt location drawings conflict with the HANS website drawings of how far they should be located below your shoulders.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Elmo, you are correct. Sparky,you are talking about 7 point harness. That is a Must for laydown Or in my opinion any car. Rick White aT Autopower has the additionaL strap you need.
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I learned something new today! I'm thinking anti-submarine belt to keep me from sliding down/under (hence the name) but I guess as soon as you lay down the whole concept goes backwards! Weird... Thanks Wayno!
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Yeah. That's what it sounds like, huh? :roll: But when you think about it that'd be like pushing on a rope. :cheers: Wayno
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the seventh strap should be in a straight line with your shoulder straps it keeps the lap belt and hence the attaching point at the latch from riding up and letting your helmet get up into the cage top. In 2001 I drove in speed week without one and WOS with one HUGE difference in the way I felt in the car:
the new 9 point makes almost as much difference they really LOCK you down
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Thanks guys! Next big thing on the list is after the interior is finished up. I plan on doing a pour in seat after I decide who's brand I want to use (beads vs. foam) and then need to figure out my helmet padding. I designed the 1" parameter tubing in the cage to be used with ISP's padding which is pretty awesome stuff! My sorta quandary now is trying to fine tune the padding BETWEEN my helmet and the ISP high density stuff. Building a lay down car has the disadvantage of HAVING to lay your head down on something. I've been playing with different densities of memory foam (and testing it by resting my helmeted head on a vibrating bead polisher with different padding types and yes a LOT of headaches!) to keep the vibration to my head at a minimum! In the rules I'm allowed a 2" max gap and I'm going to fill the gap up. I'll wrap in in flameproof material when it's done and hopefully the design will keep vibration headaches to a minimum.
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Mike came over and welded up the seat tubing so that's done
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140910_180356297_zpsbe5b53f2.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140910_180356297_zpsbe5b53f2.jpg.html)
Also made some small flat support plates in the center floor area in the interior. Used .100" chromoly sheet, then cut and bent them up to make them flush with the top plane of the lower tube.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140910_180409997_zpscc2bf2c2.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140910_180409997_zpscc2bf2c2.jpg.html)
With the 1 5/8" outer tubes and 1" cross tubes there was about a 3/8" drop in the middle. With the pads done, the aluminum floor will now be supported and have no droop.
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Got my brake and clutch setup installed. I removed the hand brake after realizing my arm restraints would cause a problem. I had to make my pedals to fit the angle of my feet, so I whittled some up out of aluminum and had Mike do his awesome welding to finish them off!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/MG952014091495162042295_zpsfbf9ac53.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/MG952014091495162042295_zpsfbf9ac53.jpg.html)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/MG952014091495162021674_zps85b2fec0.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/MG952014091495162021674_zps85b2fec0.jpg.html)
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My my friend Rob had a great idea and name for the group of guys who've been helping with ideas for the Streamliner. He came up with the name the "Slide Rule Syndicate" so I decided to put some shirt artwork together and this is what the first batch will look like. This is the back.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/SlideRuleBACK_zps4b7f613d.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/SlideRuleBACK_zps4b7f613d.jpg.html)
This is the front.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/SlideRulefront3_zpsc38c475c.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/SlideRulefront3_zpsc38c475c.jpg.html)
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Love the design Brad. You should be able to sell a bunch. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Remember when you are in the process of getting race shirts for your team - or whomever. Kudos Laser (that's Nancy and me) makes t-shirts with whatever design you want. The shirts MUST BE WHITE or light grey, but other than that -- there's no limits on colors for the art and the design is wide open. We use a process that imprints photographs right on the shirt, in full color. The price for racers is probably quite a bit lower than retail -- and maybe even lower than regular online places -- 'specially if you want a small quantity, not 5,000. Contact me -- you and anyone. Click on the Kudos ad at the bottom of the page to contact me (among other ways).
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Thanks for the offer Jon! I've got the shirt deal handled with a screen printer friend of mine. The color seps are done, just need to get a few cases of blanks!
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No color "seps" with us, but that's beside the point. Get in touch if you'd like an idea of where to buy shirts online - for cheap.
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Thank you sir!
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Awesome project! Great workmanship! On page 13, the photo of such a long chassis on the ground (driveway) makes me wonder whether in fact there will be sufficient clearance to allow for flex, suspension travel, and minor irregularities in the racing surface (i.e., salt). You might want to check all that, bearing in mind that the final weight will be substantially greater than what you now have. Additionally, aerodynamics might conceivably create some downforce that tends to lower the central part of the entire chassis.
If some of the body (sheemetal, for example?) is below the lowest frame tube, that crowds the ground even more. Scraping the ground during a run isn't likely to help you achieve your goal. Best wishes.
tallguy
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Thanks Tallguy! The car is set up with an inch and a half of ground clearance which is low, but will work just fine. As far as the added weight lowering the car farther, the springs and adjustability will prevent that. One of the reasons I went with chromoly was to keep flex to an absolute minimum and not have the center of the chassis droop at any speed.
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I finished the cardboard templates for the fuel and 2 water tanks. Now making them of aluminum. The car is at my friend Rudy's getting the interior done up. He's a master at aluminum fabrication. Here's what part of the sides look like. The bottom area roles out so I have room for hoses and electrical to hide behind
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/20141016_095422_zpsb98ecadc.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141016_095422_zpsb98ecadc.jpg.html)
Here's a view from the front
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/20141016_095435_zps9a0954e9.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141016_095435_zps9a0954e9.jpg.html)
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glad to see you up date post!!
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This is such a well thought out and neatly put together car.
Way to go Brad. :cheers:
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It's a pleasure to view the workmanship!
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Just saw a great quote by Hunter S. Thompson. Sure he was a bit "out there" but what he said fits EVERYONE who has or will run on the lake beds... "Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death!" Awesome!
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are you sure it isn't "Faster, faster, faster, until the fear of death overcomes the thrill of speed!"
Either way it definitely describes LSR
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...or until your azz starts clipping buttonholes in your shorts. :-D
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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That was awesome guys! I was laughing so hard I was crying!
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Back on the liner, looking great, can't wait to see it on the salt
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I'm dying to get it out there! One of the things on my list is to de-throne my friend Dennis Jones who crews on the Ferguson streamliner. He drove it to 260 mph and got his red hat and as far as I know is the world's fastest Pinstriper! That needs to change!!
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Crazy cool video! The guys on the radio are beyond stale though.. http://bangshift.com/general-news/videos/terror-triumph-watch-craig-breedlove-become-fastest-man-history-nearly-killed-process-incredible-video/
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Got the fuel and water intercooler tanks back today from the guys at Western Fab! Awesome job and one more thing off the list.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/Message951417040925345_zps75e2e185.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Message951417040925345_zps75e2e185.jpg.html)
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Nice tank Brad. Just looking at it I can tell it's assembled and welded properly resulting in a really strong tank.
Pete
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It's pretty cool how they did it. The panels are flanged at a 90 degree angle to make it less likely to flex, plus it gives it a flat piece to be welded to. Very strong and less likely to crack. Once I finish the mounts I'll mount all the bungs and filler necks.
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Dropped in one of the water tanks and fuel tank to see how they'd fit. They'll work perfect. Now to finish the mounts and figure plumbing bung location.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141222_130955381_HDR_zpsa9cb4560.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141222_130955381_HDR_zpsa9cb4560.jpg.html)
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Your's is definitely one of the neatest builds on the forum.
All I see is quality.
Nicely done Brad. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Looking great Brad!
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Had to share the newest addition to the "Breaking Wind Streamliner" group of AWESOME sponsors! If you're not familiar with them it's because you're NOT online (and obviously not reading this) and don't follow much racing BESIDES NASCAR! If you read Hot Rod Magazine you'll know who I'm talking about... BangShift.com ! Hanging out with Chad the other day and he was stoked to hang with us crazies and be part of our plans! Stay tuned!!
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Very cool news!
:cheers: :cheers:
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My MAN!!!!!!!!!
Finding backing for racing is tough but for LSR nigh impossible, well almost. :wink:
Nicely done Brad, I wish you and the sponsor all you deserve. :cheers:
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Congrats Brad! :cheers:
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I'm still alive! Still working on racecar stuff, building a cool tow/push vehicle and starting on both dolly and tow trailers! LOTS to do! I printed up our first round of shirts dedicated to all the brains involved in this thing. They're Gildan 6.1 oz. 100% cotton, heavyweight shirts. If anyone wants one, I'm selling them for $20 +5 bucks for shipping. They're pretty cool..
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/20150317_125443_zpsj0rthcr7.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150317_125443_zpsj0rthcr7.jpg.html).(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/truckdude123/Mobile%20Uploads/20150317_125455_zpshtmrki6o.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/truckdude123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150317_125455_zpshtmrki6o.jpg.html)
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Awesome shirts Brad.
I wish you the best and hope you sell 100s. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Brad, are you still out there?. :-)
You've been quiet man.
I'm blue in the face here!!!!!!. :-D
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Hey Dude, I'm still here! Had a few things jump in (my oldest daughter got married last week in Texas) and slow production just a bit. Changed a few things on the body design to get rid of drag in a few areas that were bugging my aero guy and myself. A little more CFD and It's body time. Picked up a Chevy dually and did a bunch of serious chassis work to put it on the ground for a push/tow vehicle. BESIDES being fast, we have to look good too! Lol... Working on a little bit of everything, checking things off the list! How goes it on your side of the planet? Anything new?
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To your future Texan Grands :cheers:
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Texas hey?. Only two things come out of Texas........ :-D :-D :-D
Seriously, congrats. How's the other grandchild?. :cheers:
You know how we love photos so I was just thinking!!!.
My side is just like anywhere else. Never enough money for racing. :evil:
I can't wait to see what progress you've made and I know you'll post when
you have pics.
Go well Brad.
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Spark "defected" a longtime ago! :dhorse: I am here for life, so watch it :-D.
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Fred.... defected :roll: come on... once a Texan always a Texan... he just moved to west Texas
location has nothing to do with state of mind :cheers:
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True! I have lived all over the country but always considered myself a Texan.
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I'm back! I took a little break to work on a potential TV project but hated the fact I never finished this goal! It's taking me a little while to figure out where I want to dive back in, but it'll be cool! Here we go...
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That happens a lot in LSR... don't know of any short term projects :evil:
Welcome back, now get to work and remember... without pictures it never happened :wink: :cheers:
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Me too Brad! Give me a call some time.
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Good evening!! I hated the fact that I haven't finished this up yet and now I'm on a mission! I'm back in my cozy little "shop"working on my favorite money pit. I'll have some pics shortly and bring everything back into my world. Stay tuned for more STUFF!
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Finally getting my front wheels cut out. Wasn't sure what "hardness" aluminum I was using until I had a nice talk with my machinist explaining everything. Onward ho...
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Brad,
Remember that you have to accelerate the wheels to rotate and your present design is pretty massive and has a high polar moment of inertia which is what you have to accelerate. I think you "tread" design is pretty good as you have enough crown and side radius to help prevent to much salt "ploughying" when the wheels are turned but the rim thickness, the "web" between the rim and the bearing carrier and the area that the bearings are carried in are massive and certainly much more than is required. Any of the alloys that you have listed on your drawing will be more that strong enough for a wheel of this size, although the two 7500 series will probably cost you over double the cost of 6061-T6. I did a solid wheel design for a 21 inch dia wheel that would weight less than 1/2 of your present design and have it signed off by the SCTA tech inspectors.
On the other hand if you do happen to crash with these wheels you will probably be able to run them on your next car as they look indestructible!
Rex
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Brad, if you haven't already acquired aluminum give me a PM... We have a large surplus aircraft aluminum Yard here.... even with shipping from Kansas it will be less than half of new price. I can check to see if they have what you need.
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Since we have such a good supply of LSR tires these days, why do you want to build a solid wheel??
Sid.
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Sid... 13 inches tall... even my little tires are bigger than that... everything you don't put in the air has 0 drag
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I went back & scrolled through the pics & I see it was designed around front tires so why the change?
Sid.
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Like you Sid, I had to refresh the path of the rabbit hole... and reread a bunch of this to see where this project was going. It looks to be designed for those little dragster wheels... so aluminum is a good way to go.
Brad... consult with a bearing guy if you have not already... about expected rpm and loads.
Back to work :cheers:
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Rex, I definitely need to talk to you when you're not too busy. As far as surplus aluminum goes, I'm definitely game to find out more! Can I call you guys when you're not too busy? I'm doing aluminum front wheels because these mock-up tires I have are date coded 1989! Scary...
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Back in the late 80 before the second generation Mickey's were available we were nocking on 400 with 1970's Firestone's. Some of the older guys might remember us giving the snapped cords a "haircut" & running them again. 8-)
Sid.
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Back in the late 80 before the second generation Mickey's were available we were nocking on 400 with 1970's Firestone's. Some of the older guys might remember us giving the snapped cords a "haircut" & running them again. 8-)
Sid.
Boy those were different times when men were men and sheep were scared :cheers:
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First time ever at Bonneville I was watching in amazement as crew of Al Teagues streamliner painted black latex paint over the cords of there tires after cutting the straw along the rims off. they explained the tires were like 10 ply and no worries. Actually Poteet would probable run on the cords if they let him.
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I'm not running 30yr old tires no matter how many ply's...
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Was great talking to you today Rex! Thanks for the kind words, listening to me ramble and sharing some great advice!!
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Back in the 70s, we ran a set of 18s (one an Indy and the other a Bonneville -- about 1/2 inch different in diameter with cords showing all over) that were marked good for 175.
We only went about 150, no problem.
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Wheel design is now handled and being built, so that's exciting! After I get them back, they're off to get hard (thanks again Rex!) anodized. I'll have some pictures up shortly of my little shop I'm finishing the car in. I had to get creative after the building I was using got sold, so I drug a 40' container over and finally got busy. The electrical, interior siding, lights, chain hoist, tunes and man door are done. Now just to clean-up and get everything situated! I'll have some photos up soon to show my little shop in action!
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Since I'm having to be creative on a budget, I'm also on the lookout for a few safety things. I'm starting from scratch but figured I'd start collecting what I need. I need to find an SFI 20 one piece suit (I'm 5' 10"ish, 175 lbs) and a neck restraint for laying nearly flat. If someone knows of anything, please let me know. Thank you!
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Changed the wheel design a bit to lighten it up (thanks again Rex!) and got my machinist after them. I'm excited to see how they look...
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When I first started building this car, my friends Mike Harper and Roger Hurd offered me use of their shop. After they sold the building, I put the car in a 40' container next to my house. I decided it was time to finish the 'Liner and make do with what I have to work with. It's getting close to being done and here's an idea of what it looks like. It's going to work out great!
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That's a pretty nice shop an added bonus will be not much room to add clutter.
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Looking at the floorboards chassis doesn't look straight. Hopefully an illusion.
Good luck JL222
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I built it on Mel Swain's chassis table, it's dead on! Thank you...
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Finally!!
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Looks great, nice chat today