Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Rasmussen on February 14, 2014, 07:11:04 AM
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Hi all
New guy from Denmark here, who just did an intro after being a lurker for 3-4 years. Went to Speedweek in 2012 where I had the pleasure of joining Bill Anderson (Nortonist) who has been an online friend for years. Right after getting home I started building the bike I hope to bring over this year with the help of Bill and his crewchief Joe, who has both been a tremendous help in making this happen.
Bike is currently being tested, and although it looks finished there`s still a bunch to do (isn`t there allways?).
The stupid name? Well it seems like every LSR bike needs a name, So thought I might as well make it a "sweet" one. The pics should explain the somewhat far reached logic behind it :-D
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010155_zpsd747dab2.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010155_zpsd747dab2.jpg.html)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010161_zpse7498476.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010161_zpse7498476.jpg.html)
A few basics:1967 350cc BSA ex Danish army bike. 300cc Aisin blower fed through a 38 mm Mikuni butterfly carb off a Sportster. B44 intake valve and ported head. Welded crank and lightened rockers, but apart from that pretty much a stock engine.
Not hoping to be the new Burt Munro or anything like it, but just following an old dream of racing at Bonneville.
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Almost forgot! First teststart:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3341r6de55pjzdo/20131229_134738.mp4
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Great stuff.
The bike looks great.
Thanks for the pics. :cheers:
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Welcome,
The BSA B40 was the highly underrated poor stepchild of the earlier 350 Goldstar. With its short stroke design, it has a lot of potential, especially with the welded crank. Unfortunately, a few years too new for vintage class, but the records are yours for the taking. Are you a member of the B50 forum (http://www.b50.org/index2.htm)? All the BSA single cylinder experts are on that site. The addition of the supercharger is stunning on the old bike. When you come (and I hope you do) I hope you stay for the BUB speed trials.
Tom
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Excellent! The more the merrier! Look forward to seeing you there.
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Looks and sounds great Ivan. Looking forward to seeing it blitz the salt!!
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I'm interested in your supercharger drive. Is it chain or belt? If it is belt, how are you oiling your clutch bearings?
Tom
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Thanks Bill and Tauruck :-)
Briz: Likewise! I actually had the pleasure of speaking briefly with you in 2012 when admiring the Weslake. Had been following your build here, and it was one of those bikes I just had to see for myself. Was really impressed with it, as I am with the Salt Flash. Wish I had that sort of talent.
Tom: Thanks a bunch for the encouragement. Your build has been a great inspiration too, and am truly impressed with the kind of speed you have managed to get that old girl up to. I totally agree on the B40 or the B models in general being way underrated. Always supposed the bad rep here comes from the military having a bunch of them in a very low state of tune, when in fact with a little tinkering they can be made into very reliable and fun bikes.
Not totally sure I get what you mean by lubricating the clutch bearing? The basket just runs on greased rollers normal Brit style. The clutch seems to work just fine in dry state, at least for now. The only problem I see is the primarychain running dry. A belt would probably be the right thing, but failing that I believe bringing an extra primarychain should get me through the week. Recall you saying something in your build diary about the B50 sharing gear and primary oil? is that right?, then I believe that explains your question. The B40 has separate primary and gearbox, so it really doesn`t present a problem running the blower off the crank. Please let me know if this is what you asked, and if not I`ll do my best to give you a proper answer.
For the drive I chose a single v belt for 2 reasons. I wanted to keep it narrow and most importantly, stepping on new ground here, wanted to be absolutely sure, that in the case of severe blowbacks I wanted to have a little "give" in the system and not having my lobes shift destroying the blower. I would never run a chaindrive like some do, being the cautious type :-D. The belt should be good up to at least 5 HP and at the moderate power I´m aiming for believe that will be sufficient, fingers crossed.
Will try uploading a few pics of the setup.
BUB`s is unfortunately not likely to happen. Have talked my mate Lars into joining for a 3 week vacation. The deal is we go to SW, and he decides where we`re going after that. but who knows, he may be getting saltfever and want to go back to Bonneville. Would love to come by and have a chat.
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First mock up:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/image_zps39680c4b.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/image_zps39680c4b.jpg.html)
Machining the beltwheels (proper term?) out of a couple of lumbs of aluminum. Took forever as I didn`t have any round stock, but had to work from a piece of thick plate cut out with an angle grinder:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/image_zpsf2db04c0.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/image_zpsf2db04c0.jpg.html)
A little further. Mounting the drive on the crank turned out to be very simple. Where the alternator magnet used to sit, the axle was 3/4" which is approx 19,05 mm`s, or close enough to use a 19 mm double sided taperlock and a straight bored drivewheel. The nut is only there for show. The beltwheel holds the primary drive sprocket in place just fine:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/image_zps5b4df079.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/image_zps5b4df079.jpg.html)
Milling the stock primary cover:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/image_zps56e0a6d3.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/image_zps56e0a6d3.jpg.html)
And it all fits nicely:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/image_zpsb16dd016.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/image_zpsb16dd016.jpg.html)
In order to keep everything tight and within stock width (and thereby be able to use the stock footrests) I had to move the blower slightly outwards to have the belt clear the frame. Total offset of drive is approx 3/8". Read on a chart somewhere on the net that with this fairly long belt this should give me a drive of 95% or thereabouts efficiency. I can live with that, especially considering how much work it saved in the rest of the setup 8-)
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A little background information may be in order. Here`s a couple of scans of some old pictures. As bought in 1984 from a military surplus dealer:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/Unavngivet_zpsb674a4ef.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/Unavngivet_zpsb674a4ef.jpg.html)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/Unavngivetpng1_zps328dd2a1.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/Unavngivetpng1_zps328dd2a1.jpg.html)
The bike was painted all black, and given a quick overhaul, but was pretty much left as was until 2000 when turned into a dragbike to compete in the annual all British sprint held here in Denmark. It was given (almost) the full threatment at that time. Fresh bore, high comp, ported head, oversized valves, new bearings all through and so on. Raced it once where I came last against the 500`s in the street legal up to 500 cc class. After 500 miles of riding, a good friend made me an offer I couldn`t refuse. An even swap for his 1939 500 cc BSA all in boxes. My friend Jørgen had a heart condition, wasn`t really well, and realized he probably never would get the 500 assembled, so he`d rather have a less desirable but complete bike in his garage.
Jørgen sadly passed away in 2008, unfortunately he never got to ride the B40, not even once.
His mother found it fitting to let me have the bike for free, rather than to just sell it to someone who wouldn`t appreciate it, and I made a promise to never sell it again.
Having more bikes, I realized that I would probably not really get much riding done on it, and after sitting again for 4 years, except for a couple of trips down the dragstrip being ridden by friends, I found turning it into a LSR bike would be the right thing to do. Also as a sort of way to remember my old friend.
Sorry about the sob story :-(. Just feels it`s an important part of the reasoning behind making this my preferred choice of projectbike :-)
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Ivan,
The clutch hub bearings are the ones I was concerned with. You say they are greased, but because the bearing is not sealed, the grease might potentially get thrown off. I've looked at a couple of clutch hubs and clutch chain wheels where these bearings were starved of oil and started skidding which ruined both parts.
As for the B50, it is like the B40 and does not share primary oil with the transmission. However, the B50 main crankshaft bearing is unsealed and there are holes drilled in between the primary case and the crankcase, so the B50 breathes thru the primary case and the oil can move back and forth thru the main bearing and thru the breather holes.
I believe you can further modify your primary case by separating the primary drive chain from your supercharger drive pulley with a flat aluminum plate with a seal between the two drives. Cut away all the primary case outboard of this plate back to the clutch. You may have to use an idler pulley on the slack side of the belt to get it to clear the bulge at the clutch. The belt will run outboard of this welded in plate, the chain will run inboard and can therefore be within the then sealed primary case which can then contain oil which will lubricate both you chain and your clutch hub bearings. Similar to the photo I show below, but the drive pulley can be moved back closer to the motor if you cut away part of the primary case.
Another question I have is that of your fuel supply. It appears to be gravity feed. Will the boost created by your blower prevent fuel from flowing into the carb?
By the way, the B50 is nothing more than an expanded B25/B40/B44, and uses the same clutch (extra plate) and transmission, which obviously becomes the weak link.
Tom
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Hi Tom
Ok, now I get it, must have gotten it all wrong when reading your diary. Sorry about that :roll:. Mine has a seal on the driveside of the crank. I know there are a few differences between the WDCO cases and civilian versions, this may be one?. Another funny thing is, all my bearings are metrics, suppose that could be a difference also?
I actually worried more about having grease thrown into the clutchplates, but I do see the potential risc of failure here. Still, it's not that different from what is on the old Albion box on my BSA M21 that runs an open primary, or even my Shovel that runs a belt, and therefore a dry primary. Your suggestion sounds like a brilliant mod, and I'll keep it in mind. Just don't feel I have the time to start over at the moment :-) Will have a look when there's a few miles on it and see if there's any problem :-)
The pictures are just mockups with the old carb in the normal place. I run a suck through setup, so should be fine.
Now you have me scratching my head and wondering how the h... my cases are breathing. Honestly never given it much thought. You believe there could be a horse ot two hidden here by relieving the pressure? Would it do any good to drill and put a hose on the rear valve cap, and let some air out through the pusrod tube?
Are you still considering supercharging yourself?
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Your B40 likely breathes thru the camshaft with a "timed breather" hole that allows the crankcase pressure to exit into the timing cover, and then out thru a small hole in the upper timing cover. I don't know the exact location, but these timed breathers never worked very well, and eventually with the B50 they just decided to let it breath thru the primary case with a breather tube exiting under the rear fender. Is there a cover on the front of the timing cover for a tach hookup, like the later ones? You can use this as well and let it breath thru a one-way valve, reed valve is best but a PCV valve will work. You may need this, as with the blower, you'll probably get more blow-by past the rings than the timed breather can handle - - read lots of oil leaks! Once again, the B50 forum guys have all the answers for single cylinder BSA's.
As for supercharging, I'm just in the watch-and-see mode because there are a couple of new ones coming on stream (including your friend Bill Anderson, I believe (Nortonist?). I don't know if a bored out B50 motor, clutch, and tranny can handle that much hp. In fact, I was considering building a 350 motor based on a set of B50 cases which are better with a 3rd bearing on the crankshaft and bigger studs. I'll be watching your performance closely.
Tom
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Ivan, thanks for sharing the history of your bike. There is nothing to be ashamed of by paying tribute to the past. All of us race in the shadows of those that have gone before. This is something you really feel when you are on the salt.
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Looking GOOD Ivan :-D
This forum's members have a wealth of information that comes from experience, I know , sometimes this creates a head spin while you try to digest it all, , , ,
I'm still sorting my 250 out, but getting there
:cheers:
Tiny
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Thanks WW. It feels good to get a positive response on something I felt a bit awkward posting :-)
Tom: believe you`re right about the cases breathing through the timing side. Unfortunately I only took one picture with the engine apart, and that only shows a bunch of parts spread out. Regret not taking a lot now, it might just have been possible to see something. if I don`t get something figured out before, it`ll be on my to do list next time it`s disassembled.
Tiny: from the noise that thing of yours produce I`d guess you`re really close to getting there :-D
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Well, back to the build :-)
Have spent quite some time lately testing on the backroads. The bike is surprisingly well behaved, starts first kick almost every time. Idles fine, and feels "right". My main issue has been a large power drop when shifting into fourth. I get a significant drop in RPM, and unfortunately run out of road long before I´m able to pick up the revvs again. No doubt of it leaning out at WOT.
My first thought was (what I understand almost all are struggling with) to little flow to the fuel bowl.
First measurements showed a measly 0,2 liters of flow per minute. Realised that with my setup there may be a need to keep the tank full to get enough flow, and I had only filled in a couple of liters (or half a gallon). A full tank got me to 0,5 l/m, a huge difference.
Next couple of runs showed a (very) slight improvement, but still far from good enough. Went crazy on the mainjet going from 160 to a gigantic (and silly) 210 in a couple of steps, but still had a leanout :-(
Drastic steps where called for:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/BBlitz/image_zps993fc17d.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/BBlitz/image_zps993fc17d.jpg.html)
I really, really hated doing this! knowing all to well I was going to mess up an otherwise fine carb I drilled the inlet from 4 to 5 mm`s. Just had to be sure, and have a couple of carbs in spare. The idea was simply to test, and if finally getting it rich enough, mess with making/finding a suitable float/needle setup later.
Took off with fuel spraying out the overflow, but still, a leanout in high gear :-o bummer!
It suddenly dawned on me, that maybe my carb was too large (38 mm Keihin butterfly). It makes sense (to me at least). Up to third I may be running on the pilot jet at a moderate throttle opening giving me a good vacuum signal in the venturi to draw the fuel. Shifted into fourth, hammering the throttle, my high gearing (got a very widespread "trials" gearing) drops RPM on both engine and of course blower enough to loose a lot of vacuum in the venturi combined with a fully open throttlevalve.
Next logic step:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-02-22094938_zps2375abdf.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-02-22094938_zps2375abdf.jpg.html)
A Keihin CV borrowed from my shovelhead. Larger at 40 mm, but being a CV should help keeping my airflow, and thus vacuum at WOT.
First tests have shown a huge improvement. I´m able to go full bore, and still have the bike accelerate albeit a bit slowly.
Still think I need a smaller carb, so got these yesterday:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-02-21131214_zps2d018bff.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-02-21131214_zps2d018bff.jpg.html)
A row of 36 mm Mikuni CV`s taken from a FJ 1200 Yamaha. It should be possible to get at least one good carb out of this, and leave me with enough spares to experiment. This will be my project for this weekend.
Where I`m at now
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-02-22080841_zps0414e57e.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-02-22080841_zps0414e57e.jpg.html)
Still way to lean. Would one of you in the know please have a look at the "firing ring" (what`s the right expression?) marked with the red arrow. Got a feeling I may run a bit too advanced. It should be in the middle of the bend on the side electrode, not?. Comments on this, the look of the plug in general, and everything else will be greatly appreciated :-)
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yes, the optumin point for the ignition timing is in/on the middle of the bend,, :-)
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Thanks ST :-) Then should I advance or retard to move the line to where it should be? my gutfeeling says retard, which is probably also the safest thing to do :-)
Completely forgot, you may be able to answer this also: the hole just above the "made in Japan" marking. What`s that for? I was thinking maybe a vacuumline for the fueltap? should I just plug it?
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-02-21142236-1_zpsd5f78d0b.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-02-21142236-1_zpsd5f78d0b.jpg.html)
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go with your gut feeling, the thing needs retarding, :wink:,
not sure what the hole in the carby is for,, if its the vacume for the fuel tap, wont hurt to just plug it,, :-)
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A vacuum gauge hooked up to a hose on the intake manifold helps when you are learning how to use big carbs. The goal is to open them slowly enough to maintain the intake vacuum. Sometimes it is awkward to wait long enough to get the carb open and maintain vacuum during the opening process. The track is too short, etc. This is a sign the carb is too big, as you have figured out.
The best carb size, in my experience, is the smallest one that will provide adequate atomization at peak horsepower. How many rear wheel HP is your goal?
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Stay Tee: thanks a lot, retarded it will be :-)
WW: A vacuumgauge! Now that is a brilliant idea. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks for suggesting it. The more I think about it, the more sense it makes. I mean, I could be jetting from now on until hell freezes over, but if I for some reason (blowerpulses?) have a positive pressure spike there's no way I'm getting fuel into the manifold. I'm sure you mean the largest carb that still gives good atomization :-). That sounds like good advice.
Have spent the weekend messing with my new (old) 36 mm Mikuni CV. It only had a 1,5 mm inlet to the fuelbowl. Got it up to 3,8 using a needlevalve from a flatslide carb. Took a lot of fiddling, but got it to work. Don't really feel comfortable with it though. Somehow I don't really trust it to keep on working properly, it being quite used and with a heavily modified float and needlevalve. Took a quick decision, and ordered a Keihin CV like the one I have had the best results with. It did actually work, and hooking up a vacuumgauge, rolling on the throttle slowly, and enlarging the jets I believe it should be possible to (finally) get it right.
Now if all else fails :-D:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/image_zps150c5312.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/image_zps150c5312.jpg.html)
Inspired by the mentioning of a Wal Phillips fuel injector on Generatorshovels build diary, I just had to try. Yes I know it's turned the wrong way, but that saved me from turning a flange. Believe it or not, it actually started and ran with this! Just for a few seconds, and I didn't dare to take it out for a ride, with this primitive setup, but it just maybe could work.
Hope to have my new carb this week, and if the weather holds up, take the bike out with retarded ignition and a vacuumgauge :-)
Almost forgot, targeted HP: not really any specific target. It's got (a claimed) 18 stock, so there should be room for improvement. I'd say anything above 30 would be satisfactory. 35 would be fantastic:-)
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Adjust your float level as per manufacturer's recommendations for pump gasoline. Connect a clear piece of fuel line tubing to a hose barb on the float bowl drain screw. Route the hose up alongside the float bowl with the hose end open. Open the fuel supply and let the float bowl fill with pump gasoline. The fuel level you see in the hose will be the level in the bowl. Make a scratch mark on the side of the float bowl.
Drain the gas and put in your race fuel. Do the same thing and look at the fuel level. Fuels that are heavier than pump gas will show a low level. The floats float higher in them and they shut the valve off too soon. You will need to readjust your floats upward so the fuel level in the bowl is the same as with pump gas. Use the mark you made earlier. The opposite is true if your fuel is lighter than pump gas.
Look at the fuel level in the hose alongside your bowl during your dyno work. It should not drop significantly. There is a fuel delivery problem if it does.
35 hp needs a 34 through 40 mm carb based on my old carb chart. 40mm would be about right for a carb with a butterfly and 34 or 35mm with a slide carb.
Baron's Speed Shop in London has a lot of experience with Amal carbs in race applications. Amal makes special parts for all sorts of racing fuels and applications. An advantage to the animal carbs is it is bonehead simple to jet. The monobloc is my favorite. Every jet in the thing is easy to get at including the insides of the float bowl.
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Not much progress here. Blame it on work and foul weather :-(
WW: Going to put my trust in your chart and go with the 40 CV :-). Got mixed emotions about the Amals. What little experience I have with them have been with the MK2 (the one with the black plastic lid) and it wasn`t all good. Really think I should settle on the CV, and make it work instead of keeping on messing around and wasting precious time. Really comforting to know your chart says I`m in the ballpark though.
While waiting for the weather to clear up, I thought some of you may find these thermographic images I did interesting. Especially those of you working on or considering a blower.
Please note that these are taken in cold damp weather, and after a very short (1/2 mile) run. Almost as far from Bonneville conditions as you can possibly get. Actual temperatures should not be taken to seriously, considering this. Instead focus should be on the temperatures relative to one another. The text is my interpretation of what is going on, some of you may disagree, in which case it would be really interesting to know what you make of it :-)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/D0124-21_zpsbc4a0864.png) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/D0124-21_zpsbc4a0864.png.html)
Overall view, shows no major worries. Mostly interested in the exhaust here. No major restrictions. A returning heatwawe clashing with an outgoing one would have shown as a hot spot.
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/D0124-24_zpsed6bdaa0.png) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/D0124-24_zpsed6bdaa0.png.html)
The very good atomization provided by the CV helps in keeping the runner from carb to blower very cold. This is actually colder than ambient, and feels cold to the touch.
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/D0124-23_zps47887078.png) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/D0124-23_zps47887078.png.html)
The blower itself, as expected, gets hot. But (what surprised me the most)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/D0124-25_zpsa6e11d88.png) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/D0124-25_zpsa6e11d88.png.html)
when expanding into the plenum, it cools considerably again. Not nearly as bad as feared :-D
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/D0124-39_zpsc1a9270b.png) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/D0124-39_zpsc1a9270b.png.html)
Unexpected find. My pop off valve leaks, running a calculated 8-10 PSI, and with the valve set at approx 30. Blowback? if so it`s completely undetectable when running. Pulses having the valve bounce on the seat sounds more likely. A richer mixture and a retarded ignition setting may help. At least that`s what I hope for. Doesn`t seem to affect running though, and could maybe just be disregarded if not too bad.
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/D0124-29_zps4ef16c67.png) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/D0124-29_zps4ef16c67.png.html)
Unexpected finding #2. Beltwhip makes the belt hit the guard. It has to move nearly an inch for this to happen? Should be an easy fix, but nice to find out this early, and something I probably wouldn`t have discovered otherwise before the belt was ruined.
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that's a lot of good info gained from those thermal pictures.
will be interesting to know why there are leaks at the blow off valve.
any damage to the belt ?
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That's awesome! Where does one buy a thermal camera? I can see how this information can be very useful, like the fact you were able to detect a blow off leak and the belt slapping the guard, both of which would be undetectable to the naked eye. Very cool stuff! 8-)
As for the Amal MK2..... NOT a fan. I have a brand new 930 on my '58 RE/Indian and it is a PITA to say the least. Problems that I've noticed with it are: There are NO external vents for the carb and it tends to vapor lock under heavy acceleration if you don't have both fuel feeds turned on. If you leave the bike parked in the sun, the fuel will actually cook out of the bowl and cause the float to stick closed, making it a big PITA to get fuel back into the carb. And the tunability is sub-par at best. I've tried several different jets, needles, and slide cut-aways and I've NEVER been able to turn out the air-screw more than 3/4 to a full turn out before it stalls. Seriously, the air-screw is usually at maybe 3/8 of a turn out. I really REALLY wish I had just spent my money on a Mikuni. The Amal will be getting replaced this summer and probably go up on Ebay.
Scottie J
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There are vents on Mk2s, they are the small hose fittings high up on the carb body.
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I think the only actual vent on MY carb is in the body and exits into the air filter. All I know is mine is barely a year old and has been giving me problems since I put it on.
Scottie J
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Be extremely careful using IR cameras to measure temperature, it's a complicated science but some basics are:
IR cameras do not measure temperature <- if you remember nothing else, remember this.
IR cameras measure infra red, what they 'see' depends upon the target temperature and the 'emissivity' of the material.
The simplest way to get good IR temperature measurements is to paint everything with black stove paint, you will then get sensible results.
You will never get good IR temperature measurements from shiny stuff.
a list of emissivities of some materials http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/emissivity-coefficients-d_447.html (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/emissivity-coefficients-d_447.html)
Your camera will be calibrated to measure the temperature of a 'black body', this is an object with an emissivity of 1 (practically this is 0.98). You probably have software that will allow you to adjust for the emissivity of the object you're looking at, this is very laborious in reality. There is another sting in the tail, anything that isn't emissivity is reflectivity, so a black body has no reflectivity, and an object with emissivity 0.2 has a reflectivity of 0.8. What this means is when you look at something with low emissivity the majority of what you measure may well be something hot being reflected in the surface.
You can't see infra red, things that look black aren't necessarily black bodies.
IR cameras are a great tool, but so often I see them being used badly, and to jump to poor conclusions.
Andy
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Amen, Andy.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Saltwheels: It could also be the plenum being to small I guess. It's still something I have to look into though, so not really sure yet. Belt is still good, a few scuffs on the outer edge, but should be able to keep it until everything is sorted out :-)
Scotty: they're easy to find, but rather expensive. The one I'm using was close to 50k $ 15 years ago, but since then prices have gone down considerably. They're getting more and more common, and you may be able to find an electric company that has one. IMO they're very valuable instruments, often showing you things you didn't even know you were looking for :-)
Andy: Agree, in that you have some real good points there, but still there's nothing wrong in what I'm claiming. Specifically pointed out that actual temperatures were not to be taken to seriously. My main goal was to check the exhaust, which is all chrome, so like stated, any hot spots would have shown up. The intake runner is very cold like stated, and the charge (one of my concerns) IS getting colder when entering the plenum. Finding the leaking pop off, and the rubbing belt where just extra benefits. Things I weren't looking for but immediately noticed, and probably would have overlooked had it not been for the IR camera. Had there been a minor headgasket leak or a slipping clutch it would have shown up too, something I know from experience. So let's just say we agree on the temperatures being somewhat misleading. I still find this to be an extremely useful tool though :-)
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Just a note?
The "stepchild" remark is relevant - it's not a direct descendant or modification.
The "modern" unit B25, etc. singles share almost nothing with the earlier Gold Star, Empire Star etc. non-unit engines. The most obvious difference (other than physical bulk) is that all unit camshafts have both lobes on a single shaft, and cannot be adjusted for any function except advance/retard of both event simultaneously and in the same increment.
By comparison, the older B31, M20 etc. have a separate camshaft for each tappet (or valve, where SV) and this permits re-clocking the lobes WRT each other, changing the LSA and overlap.
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Andy: Agree, in that you have some real good points there, but still there's nothing wrong in what I'm claiming. Specifically pointed out that actual temperatures were not to be taken to seriously. My main goal was to check the exhaust, which is all chrome, so like stated, any hot spots would have shown up. The intake runner is very cold like stated, and the charge (one of my concerns) IS getting colder when entering the plenum. Finding the leaking pop off, and the rubbing belt where just extra benefits. Things I weren't looking for but immediately noticed, and probably would have overlooked had it not been for the IR camera. Had there been a minor headgasket leak or a slipping clutch it would have shown up too, something I know from experience. So let's just say we agree on the temperatures being somewhat misleading. I still find this to be an extremely useful tool though :-)
You were there, and able to wave the camera around, but from the images alone I'd want to investigate further as the hot spots on the belt cover and pop off just look like reflections of the hot engine onto the low emissivity parts. I saw when you'd said about not reading the temperatures too seriously, so realised that you understood about emissivity, but it's the flip side of that coin, the reflectivity that was for your benefit. Maybe this is all obvious to you, and the polished spot on the inside of the belt cover will confirm the touching, but for me, based purely on the images posted, I wouldn't be convinced.
Andy :cheers:
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Re: blow-off valve.
You're in an awkward place, the "duty cycle" of your intake valve is brief compared to the supercharger discharge, which is pulsed as well. The Aisin has a 2-lobe rotor which means that the exact timing of rotor exposure to the discharge port vs. intake valve opening may be significant but your belt won't allow them to be reliably timed.
Normally, this would call for a plenum volume of at least 350cc (minus the volume already present in the inter-rotor space; yours is 150cc, manifold etc.), but this is very dangerous since it will be full of combustible mixture. A backfire will instantly overcome anything like a "normal" blow-off valve - it's too small. What's needed is a burst panel with much larger cross-sectional area as a "sacrificial" component.
The blower is at about engine speed, yes? That should product about 10 psi at sea level.
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from the images alone I'd want to investigate further as the hot spots on the belt cover and pop off just look like reflections of the hot engine onto the low emissivity parts. Cover will confirm the touching, but for me, based purely on the images posted, I wouldn't be convinced.
Andy :cheers:
[/quote]
Hi Andy. This is exactly the sort of comment I was hoping for. Someone else giving their interpretation. Looking further into it, I actually believe you could be right about the belt. At least it looks way worse than it is. It was running kind of loose. Pretty sure I got it fixed. The popoff on the other hand, is leaking. Not much it looks, but it was definitely moist at the outlet.
Thanks for your input :-)
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Panic: Thanks for chiming in, please keep them coming, I´m listening :cheers:
Here`s the Blow-off
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/BBlitz/image_zps55e01e70.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/BBlitz/image_zps55e01e70.jpg.html)
I did make it quite large, because it worried me a bit, this being a first for me :-)
Plenum is 300 cc. It started out as 400, but as you can see there`s not much room to play with. I haven`t calculated the amount in the blower into it, but that makes sense.
About the blower: Aisin definitely wasn`t my first choice. I would much rather have used my Eaton 45 with it`s twisted lobes and smooth delivery, but unfortunately it is way to bulky for a bike this size.
Blower runs very close to 1:1. Have had my worries about how timing could have an effect with these numbers, thinking worst case I could have 3 "deliveries" on one intake stroke and only 1 on the next, everything being so close in size (cylinder, plenum and blower) Hope it makes sense?
What eases my mind a lot (believe I`ve already mentioned this :-)) is the way the bike behaves. It amazes me every time it is fired up how easy it starts (first kick) idles almost like a stocker and runs really smooth and "civilized". Once I get the carburation and timing right I´m convinced I could almost use this as an everyday runner :-)
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If you get chance to play with the IR camera again you can do a couple of things to help with reflections. Moving the camera around will allow you to see if it's a real hot spot, or just a reflection. Alternatively you hold a piece of board, or card such that it shields the thing you're interested in from the hot engine(or whatever). Just don't burn yourself :-D
Andy
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I`m there! It finally runs how I want it to, and I`m very pleased :-D
The weather has improved considerably, so took 3 days of work, and have been experimenting every day from early morning to late afternoon.
Changed the carb back to a 40 mm Keihin CV that I got on Ebay. Same results as with the old carb, running reasonably well, but leaning out at WOT, so time for jetdrilling. Have gone from 45 to 75 on the pilot and from 195 to currently 210 on the main, and have had huge improvements
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-03-16102615-1_zps9717dea6.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-03-16102615-1_zps9717dea6.jpg.html)
Still a tad to lean, but a 230 or 240 ought to cure that.
Retarded the ignition as I was advised to do. Started out with 6 degrees, that made the bike very sluggish. Went back to 2, meaning it`s now 2 degrees retarded from what Pazon recommends for a stocker. Got the firing ring right in the center of the bend now. Amazing how much difference 2 degrees can make.
Have decided to go partially streamlined. Tried a couple of different fairings, but all were to large, the bike being really small. Really, really wanted a "Hagon nose cone" as was used in dragracing in the 60`s 70`s on dragbikes but have had no luck finding one. Wonder why no one repops these?
Decided to jump into it, and try making my own after watching a few videos on how to lay fiberglass.
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-03-08195556_zps8ac91f77.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-03-08195556_zps8ac91f77.jpg.html)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-03-08202158_zps31e56333.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-03-08202158_zps31e56333.jpg.html)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-03-12120642_zps833eaf45.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-03-12120642_zps833eaf45.jpg.html)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-03-13151746_zps91722d53.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-03-13151746_zps91722d53.jpg.html)
Well, it`s not totally perfect, but for a first try into fiberglass I can definitely live with how it turned out. A decent paintjob, and it`ll be just fine. Really suits the bike IMO, and may actually do it`s job and provide a little aero.
Next on the list is finishing the fairing, start drilling for locking wire and try to get the bike look reasonably clean again. Testing on the salted winterroads has left everything looking like it had already been on the salt. Rusted bits, and pitted aluminium all over. Even my brand new rearchain has traces of rust forming on it :-(. If I had the time I would probably take everything apart again, but it`s probably about time I start looking into logistics regarding transport.
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Ras.............Interesting..............a real challenge to get the one-lungers to work with SC or Blower. I run a Triumph Cub both naked and PS. Take a look........www.facebook.com/pages/Salt-Team-Advanced-Landspeed/222251137821263
I know the A-C has be someplace..........but think of the drag and how much air it may be LOSING at speed. Also footpeg and handlebar 'shape' will affect your aero.............
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Ivan, is your BOV metal to metal contact where the seal is ?
I use a sheet of Viton between the plenum and the BOV with no leaks or problems (so far) & it's banged open a few times (LOUD !)
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa399/Blowncbr/Cluster014_zps81a68352.jpg) (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Blowncbr/media/Cluster014_zps81a68352.jpg.html)
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa399/Blowncbr/Cluster015_zps40bfcfc0.jpg) (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/Blowncbr/media/Cluster015_zps40bfcfc0.jpg.html)
I have fitted a "power jet" to my carb , hopefully. it'll help solve my wot lean out problem, without having to mess with the midrange I know that works.
I returned from the DLRA Speedweek burned out & returned to work, so life has kept me from the shed, but the desire to has returned.
Tiny
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Nice work man. :cheers:
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Hi all, sorry about rather infrequent updates, but being this close, most work consists of boring little details not worth showing, like drilling for safetywire and the like.
Old Scrambler: thanks for the comments and the link. Good stuff! Yes, it has been sort of a challenge getting this to work. Going from "nearly good enough" to "satisfyingly good" was the most mindchallenging part of it, although it seems like no big deal now :-)
I did have my worries about the aircleaner location, knowing how a velocity stack sticking out in the air can upset carburation pretty badly on a HD, but no worries, it runs just fine, and it is nice to have enough area to pick up a lot of salt and still be able to let air in.
About the aero:Don`t think The bike parts are the issue here, but the shape of the rider most certainly is. It`s hard to see how tiny the bike is, until you see a photo of yourself sitting on it. Damned, this bike makes me look fat:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/SAM_1442_zps5ba913e8.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/SAM_1442_zps5ba913e8.jpg.html)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/SAM_1445_zps47393546.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/SAM_1445_zps47393546.jpg.html)
Tiny: I believe I have the BOV leak issue pretty much sorted out. Started out with some real soft rubber that kept on moving off the seat. Have now changed to some harder stuff. No idea what sort of rubber, just found some old packing material and used that. It doesn`t seem to be affected by the gas, and it stays in place, so all is fine.
Good to know that yours make a lot of noise when the valve lifts. Have been wanting to ask, but allways forgotten. No loud bangs from mine, so reckon the valve isn´t actually lifting, but maybe just leaks a tiny bit at certain RPM´s. Imagine when starting and when it´s accelerating in high gear. Nice plenum you got there, makes mine look kind of crude :|
Tauruck: Thanks mate! As allways very encouraging to have a comment from you, especially as you`re playing in a whole different league, and I´m just a happy amateur trying his best :-D
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Cool work you're doing there. :cheers:
I too am an amateur, believe me. :-D
I started building a bike but had to shelve it due to pressure from someone I live with. :evil:
You Danes are all the same.
My friend Guido is also into "some" special projects. 19 or 20. :cheers: :cheers:
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Have done a little besides the boring nutdrilling thing.
Had a good look at my rearwheel, which was okay I guess, but quite crappy looking. Started looking for a new one, and found this:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/image_zpsc0f02408.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/image_zpsc0f02408.jpg.html)
(Note to Scotty: you`re not the first guy to dream of building the worlds fastest Royal Enfield, I would put my money on you though :-D)
Another thing that bothered me even more, was the "spongy" feeling axle adjusters. Have allways hated these, and a change of rearwheel seemed like the right time to make a new set of heavy duty ones.
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/axleadj_zpse3adeff4.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/axleadj_zpse3adeff4.jpg.html)
Old ones in the middle (obviously), new ones on the axle. Took way more time than what it looks like, having milled them on my +50 years old Pedersen mill with manual feed. About 200 passes to mill the grooves! Looks like total overkill, but once mounted they look kinda just right IMO. Adjuster bolts have been taken from 6 to 10 mm or 1/4 to 3/8". These stay straight, and keep the wheel from moving when being tightened, which was not allways the case with the old ones:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/axleadj1_zpsb4e09626.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/axleadj1_zpsb4e09626.jpg.html)
Need to drill a few more holes, to paint the tank and the fairing, finishmount the rearwheel, and probably a few things more that I forgot.
Working on finding a shipper at the moment. Have talked to DHL. They want close to 4000$ to ship both ways :-(. I was told that Friday, and it kind of ruined my good mood for the weekend. There has to be a cheaper way, just have to figure it out, and preferably SOON! :-)
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I too am an amateur, believe me. :-D
Haha, no way, or maybe so, but then an extremely talented one :-)
Even your gardengates would beat my bike in a beauty contest anyday :cheers:
I´m pretty sure my "better half" think it`s about time I get something done around the house too :-D
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Thanks man.
Your axle adjusters look great.
Way better than factory.
Shipping is crazy these days and $4000 is big bucks in any language.
What do you think the whole trip would cost?.
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Shipping,
Be sure and check with the Brits who are supposed to be bringing over what seems to be a container load of bikes for Speedweeks.
So what is the other bike - - another sleeper in your stable? Is it a single cylinder Royal Enfield? At BUBs, I think they let those things run in Vintage class. The design lends itself well to keeping the body low. Compare the seating position on that bike compared to yours.
Question: what wheels are you using? Looks like SR500 front (19"?) but I don't recognize the rear wheel. I found it difficult to find a cast rim that had the sprocket line close enough to use with the BSA. I believe Avon has some AM26's in classic sizes rated for 149 mph. Above that, I think you have to go to 17's.
Tom
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DHL are never going to be cheap on stuff like this. Airfreight is always a bit eye-watering. Some of our guys did it last year and it did come in at around $4000 with all expenses on a 600kg packace.
If you have the time, sea-freight will be a lot less, but you'll need to allow 8 weeks.
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Ivan, now is a good time to figure out your wheel alignment. It is simply making sure the back wheel tracks behind the front one and is not cocked to one side or the other. This is very important and care should be used to make sure it is correct. People use string, straight edges, lasers, etc. This is the chart for my bike. The wheels are in line when the axle adjusters are like shown. This chart is handy whenever I adjust the chain or take out and put back the rear wheel. - Bo
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Tauruck: you`re welcome :-D. Initially had a budget around 8k, 2 for the airplane ticket and car rental, another 2 to ship the bike, and 4 for accomodation and general living, but it does look like it`s slipping a bit, soooo 10 maybe, and I´ll be living on beans for the rest of the year :-)
Koncrete: Yup, that`s an old Royal Enfield. It used to be in a street bike frame, and was used for classic dragracing, until I built this frame to go from "street legal class" to open/top fuel. Stopped working on it after SW 2012 when I started on the B40. It`s a 1946 model J2, so would be old enough for vintage, but it`s been so modified it wouldn`t be allowed there (it would also be in Altered and not modified like the BSA). Head and crank are Jawa speedway parts. Cylinder is aluminium. Piston is modified Wiseco, it has 11:1 compression and Hitchcocks competition cams. Runs really well, and would be a pleasure to race at Bonneville.
Wheels are Kaw 1000 up front, and Yam 400 at the rear, both 18". The sprocket was 15 mms off, but there was enough material to turn down the hub without weakening it at all, it may actually be stronger with the sprocket closer to the center. Another thing that may be of interest to you, is that I went from 5/8 to 1/2" pitch on chain and sprockets. This leaves room for up to 23 teeth (I`m running 22) on the front sprocket instead of the max 19 I believe you can get in there originally. Believe the smaller sized sprockets help keep rolling resistance low, and probably reduces chainwhip.
No need for 17`s for me just yet, haha. Tires are rated (if I recall correctly, will check it out if you want me to) up to 240 km`s an hour or like you mentioned 149 MPH :-)
Briz: Thanks for the info! The quoted 4k is for seafreight! :-(. I actually have put your number on my cellphone, and considered calling you asking if you got any space left in your container. Just hate the thought of having to ask such a big favour from you guys, and would only ask as a very last resort. Would be great to join up with someone else though. Have asked for Swedes on the Bonneville 2014 thread to see if someone wants to share a container. Have also contacted another shipping company today, and hope that solves it.
WW: Thanks for mentioning that. I was very careful getting both adjusters just right, and when measuring like you showed from adjuster to frame, have the wheel dead straight when both are adjusted the same. You have to be lucky sometimes :-D. I used a straight piece of flat aluminum for checking. Heard once that flourescent lightbulbs are very handy for this. They`re either straight or broken :-D
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Wobbly, just a thought: If I should experience that my adjusters are slightly off, it would be simple to make one bolt a bit shorter than the other, and end up having the exact same measurement from head of bolt to adjuster, when everything is correct, but I sincerely believe I´m spot on as it is :-)
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Couple more ways to get there from here:
Way I was taught back in the early '60's was use a straight edge or string to line the wheels up initially. Lasers weren't commonly available here in the woods back then, string always seemed to work easiest for me so I've stuck with it. Then always move each adjuster equally by keeping track of the number of "flats" the adjuster bolts are turned when making chain adjustments or backing off for wheel removal and replacement etc. Using an additional wrench to hold the bolt while loosening or tightening the locknut helps to maintain accurate flat positions.
Late '70's I asked a cousin who was raised in the UK how he did it on his bikes. Said back in the day he had seen one of Hailwood's tuners kneel down about 8-10' behind the bike in a paddock, close one eye and squint ahead for the alignment. He figured if it was good enough for them it was good enough for him so that's the method he was using at that time. No idea if he is still using it.
I've tried the eyeball method but still prefer a string and counting flats.
Ed
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Rasmussen; we do still have room for a bike or 2. But you'd have to have it in London for shipping by the 28th of May.
It would have to be on a shipping pallet made from a material that is acceptable for US import.
Many of us are using the steel pallets that HDs are imported on.
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Couple more ways to get there from here:
Late '70's I asked a cousin who was raised in the UK how he did it on his bikes. Said back in the day he had seen one of Hailwood's tuners kneel down about 8-10' behind the bike in a paddock, close one eye and squint ahead for the alignment. He figured if it was good enough for them it was good enough for him so that's the method he was using at that time. No idea if he is still using it.
I've tried the eyeball method but still prefer a string and counting flats.
Ed
I use the eyeball method exactly as you have described. Because the front wheel/tire is usually a bit narrower than the rear, you peer past the rear tire edges (front/rear) and adjust until you can't see the front tire unless you move your head out of line. String is susceptible to bending, and I don't usually have an 8' long straight edge with me. Always have my eyeballs with me!
quote author=Rasmussen link=topic=13626.msg248086#msg248086 date=1396281946]
Koncrete: Yup, that`s an old Royal Enfield. It used to be in a street bike frame, and was used for classic dragracing, until I built this frame to go from "street legal class" to open/top fuel. Stopped working on it after SW 2012 when I started on the B40. It`s a 1946 model J2, so would be old enough for vintage, but it`s been so modified it wouldn`t be allowed there (it would also be in Altered and not modified like the BSA). Head and crank are Jawa speedway parts. Cylinder is aluminium. Piston is modified Wiseco, it has 11:1 compression and Hitchcocks competition cams. Runs really well, and would be a pleasure to race at Bonneville.
[/quote]
You would have to use O.E.M. heads, cylinders, and block to stay in Vintage. Have you converted to OHC or is it still pushrod? If pushrod, you would run APG.
Tom
Note! 149 mph is just a number! I started at 109 mph and am now running 143 mph. That 149 number is looking pretty attractive at this point, and I'm glad I have the higher rated tires for this year.
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RidgeRunner: I`ve been told that`s how the vikings built their longboats. Not sure how anybody would know that for sure though :-D
Briz: Man, I am extremely thankful for that offer! It would mean a lot of logistics, but also would be great to be going with fellow speedfreaks :-). I expect a quote from another shipper in a couple of days, but if that falls through, I`ll give you a call. When do you guys expect to pick up your bikes? I can be in the US, on the fourth or fifth of August (late Monday, or early Tuesday) would that be soon enough?
Tom: Still pushrod. It`s an old 2 valve Jawa head, with enlarged inlet valve (modified Chevy small block). The cylinder is scrap, but still have the original head for it, 20 pounds of cast iron with dual exhaust ports (hence the J2 designation). SCTA allows a non original cylinder (look at Briz`s Beeza) for an OHV, and non original head for a SV. Doesn`t BUBs?
I remember when reading that you reached 114 (or was it 116) on it, and thinking wauw!!! that is one fast Beeza. 143 is totally out of this world. If you didn`t have the record to prove it, I honestly wouldn`t believe it :-o, that`s as fast as my fairly modern 1000 cc K model Beemer will go, and that is almost scary running on asphalt :-D
Is it a secret (then I can understand), but if you don`t mind, what gearing are you running?
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PM'd you.
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Ivan,
The gearing I used last year for the "Open" bike class, at 125 mph, was 20 front with a 45 rear sprocket. That motor (500cc short stroke) will easily turn 8,000 RPM. The "partially streamlined" version ran 143 mph with a 20 front and a 40 rear. If you give me your front sprocket size and rear wheel size, and your primary gear ratio, I can email you a spreadsheet in M.S. Excel that will calculate all your speeds with any sprockets you input. Sumner on this forum has one that will also tell you speed in each gear if you know the ratios.
By the way, I too and running modified Chevy valves in my motors.
Tom
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Hi Tom
Sorry about the late reply, had a crazy week at work and haven't been on the net :-(
Now 20/40 that's a pretty tall gearing. I thought 19 was max on the frontsprocket when running a 5/8 pitch sprocket. Assume you don't have a whole lot of space left up front? Short stroke, that's 70 mm's like I got, not?
Yes please, on the spreadsheet :-D. I did my own calculations, but it would be fun to see if we reach the same result.
Engine is 23T, clutch 52, gearbox 22, rearwheel 53 (started out with 52, but changed it when making a sprocket for the new rearwheel), and the reartire says 18 110/90.
Measured the rearwheel diameter to 654 mm's, and got 100 MPH at a little over 7000 RPM. I sincerely doubt it'll pull to 7k in high gear though, and don't even dare thinking about 8. I think a little under 6 isn't unrealistic, and that should give me the 80 that I set as the number I'll be satisfied to begin with :-)
Have never had a tacho on it, but now I want to, if there's enough time left to find and mount one.
No internal gear ratios, but they are LOW! With a 20T sprocket up front, and before the blower was added it would pull wheelies in second gear when the clutch was dropped at high revs :-D
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Ivan,
You can fit a 20 tooth front 520 sprocket on the unit singles but you have to clearance the case a bit so the chain will pass thru. I am actually using a 21 tooth this year. We clearanced the case very carefully on a milling machine which left something like .060" of wall thickness. OK if I don't throw a chain (maybe).
I made a spreadsheet using your numbers with a 53 tooth rear and came up with 99.8 mph at 7100 RPM. At Bonneville, I allow for about 4% slippage (from experience) so the actual speed you get might only be 96 mph. I don't know if it's actually slippage, or just reduction on the wheel radius at the contact point, but using the 4% reduction works very closely for me. I think you'll have to PM me with an email address if you want me to email you the spreadsheet. With it, you can change any of the parameters to get a new speed. For example, 22 to 50 on the rear wheel will get you about 106mph at 7100 RPM without the 4% reduction for slippage.
As for a tachometer, I recommend the Scitsu. Large, easy to read, and just an induction wire to tie onto your high tension lead. It has it's own isolastic mounting so you only have to fasten it somewhere with one 6mm or 1/4" bolt. You just have to remember to charge it up at night from any 12v battery and it will last all day, no problem.
Tom
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Once upon a time I was riding my first motorcycle -- a sorta customised Honda 750 chopper. It threw a chain while I was driving down the road (I can remember exactly where it was -- strange, it being almost 40 years ago) and the chain wadded up as it was trying to enter at the top of the drive sprocket. The rear wheel locked up and I slowed abruptly - but at least kept it up. After I managed to clear the jam and install a new chain I discovered that I now was the proud owner of a Honda 750 with an automatic chain oiler. The leak from the crack was just about right for oiling - maybe a tad too big, but close.
I don't think you should go that way on purpose. :roll: :cheers:
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Jon,
I'd say you were lucky. When I broke the primary chain (first time), it wadded itself up around the clutch chainwheel and locked up the rear wheel when entering the front straight at Shubie (Nova Scotia road racing track). I did somersaults down the front straight - - ended up with a badly abraded helmet and faceshield, torn leathers, and a broken ankle. I didn't know it was broken, so I loaded up the wreckage and drove 250 miles home only to find out the next day when I had trouble putting my boot on.
I'm buying a new chain for this years runs, even though the old one doesn't look worn out! If I throw a chain, it will probably end up inside the crankcase.
Tom
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Tom: PM`ed you. Great info on the Scitsu. Never heard about them, but they surely look like the right choice, especially the built in rechargeable battery is a nice option when running without a generator. It doesn`t make a lot of sense to order one at the moment, as I hope to disassemble real soon, and probably won`t ride the bike before that. It´s definitely going on my wishlist though.
Jon: Automatic chainoiling doesn`t sound all bad. You may know this, but the first of the 750 SOHC K models actually had it fitted from the factory, I believe up until the K4 :-)
Had the day off today, and got a few loose ends tightened up:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010162_zps8d2ea668.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010162_zps8d2ea668.jpg.html)
Had the tire moved to the new rearwheel. Made a brakestay and a new attachment for the cable. It feels like this brake may actually be able to slow the bike somewhat down from speed as opposed to the old Jawa drum I used to run.
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010164_zpsad09b8d2.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010164_zpsad09b8d2.jpg.html)
Finished mounting the fairing. Rulebook says at least 3 attachments, so that`s what it got. 2 bolts to the lower triple tree, and this, kind of rude, attachment at the top. Could have made it fancier, but this was the easiest, and makes the fairing very easy to remove in case of a class change.
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010165_zps996b6b07.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010165_zps996b6b07.jpg.html)
This could be the last photo of it assembled on the lift :-)
Have drilled a lot of nuts and bolts for lockingwire. Needed just one single hole in the frontaxle, when my drillpress suddenly started to run kind of concentric. In my hamfistedness I managed to break both the small titanium coated drills I had at hand, and ruin my borejig, before figuring out what was wrong. Bugger!
Hope to get my tank and fairing painted this weekend, if it isn`t to cold. Painted the frame last January in 5 degrees centigrade, and won`t do that mistake again. Paint never adhered properly, and a simple slip of a spanner is enough to make it scratch or in some instances even come of.
My leathers are at the taylor to be made SCTA legal. Had 2 sets, a onepiece suit and a zip together set. Reading the rulebook carefully I suddenly realised none of them were legal. The suit has minor perforations on the back of the legs and on the inside of the elbows, and the zip together set only zips together in the rear. Well, nothing is simple I guess. I´m having it fixed and hope to bring them both, just in case.
UPS has promised to give me a quote on shipping tomorrow at the latest. Hope to get a decent offer, and start building a shipping container next weekend. Fingers crossed!
Keep forgetting: numberplates! I have to make numberplates :-P
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Are both ends of your stay removable?
When we installed a Charlie Toy/AirTech fairing on my ZX12 I wanted to be able to take it off and run naked, too, so I used some stays to hold the windscreen/fairing top stable. All was fine until I took off the top of the fairing - and noticed these two pieces of 5/16 rod sticking back and up at me from the nose of the bike. I cut 'em near the bottom, drilled both the cut ends, and fitted a collar (holes drilled to match the ones in the rods) and secured with safety pins. I expected that the inspectors wouldn't like it if I had two shishkebab skewers sticking out and pointing towards my shoulders when making a run. It doesn't look all that pretty, but it does pass inspection. :-)
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D***! Yes it is, now I have to admit I lazied out and simply bent a piece of threaded rod :roll:
4 bolts removed and both brackets and fairing comes off as a complete unit :-)
Saw your bike on their homepage btw. Beautiful fairing indeed :-).
Funny how I`ve considered myself a gearhead for all of my adult life, but never had given aero a thought until half a year ago. Now I read anything on the subject I can find. This place is slowly changing me :-D
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Ivan,
Good Aero is everything at Bonneville and a good body has netted me 15% gain over naked (well I never really had a good body, anyway!) However, partial attempts rarely pay off big dividends, but they do add to the "Bling" factor. The tail end is at least as important as the front. Keep up the good work.
Tom
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Tom
A 15% gain! That is not to be taken lightly. When seeing the lenghts some of you guys go to to get good aero, I can see how primitive my attempt seems. Would love to try my hand at building a full fairing one day, but initially I wasn`t going for PS, it was like a last moment decision, mostly because the record was lower. If everything goes well, I hope to remove the fairing and run unstreamlined. I also did build to fuel specs despite running gas. Just wanted to keep my options open :-)
Todays work: A fresh coat of paint on tank and fairing
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010174_zps40696358.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010174_zps40696358.jpg.html)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010175_zps65699566.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010175_zps65699566.jpg.html)
Used Hammerite metal paint because it`s simple to work with and pretty tough stuff.The hammered effect is probably not to everyones liking, but hey; who can argue against a paint that comes with built in "speed dimples"? :-D
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Uh-oh......... this isn't going to start another one of those "golf ball dimple" discussions, is it? :evil:
That looks good. I've always liked the look of Hammerite but I can never get the proper finish with the spray cans. I think using Hammerite out of the regular cans and a small roller probably gives the better dimpled effect. Did you roll or spray?
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Haha, now that would be fun :-D
I sprayed this on, but with a decent spray gun, and not a rattlecan. I´m not sure Hammerite wants you to do that. Have used the stuff for about 15 years, and there used to be instructions on how to spray it on the can, but those disappeared some years ago, and now it only says apply by brush or roll. Another peculiar thing is that is used to say it took a month to harden, now it says 4 hours. Guess they changed the formula :-)
You can get a fairly decent result with a brush, maybe not good enough for a tank, but pretty allright for a wheelhub or similar stuff :-)
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Tom
A 15% gain! That is not to be taken lightly. When seeing the lenghts some of you guys go to to get good aero, I can see how primitive my attempt seems. Would love to try my hand at building a full fairing one day, but initially I wasn`t going for PS, it was like a last moment decision, mostly because the record was lower. If everything goes well, I hope to remove the fairing and run unstreamlined. I also did build to fuel specs despite running gas. Just wanted to keep my options open :-)
Todays work: A fresh coat of paint on tank and fairing
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010174_zps40696358.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010174_zps40696358.jpg.html)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010175_zps65699566.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010175_zps65699566.jpg.html)
Used Hammerite metal paint because it`s simple to work with and pretty tough stuff.The hammered effect is probably not to everyones liking, but hey; who can argue against a paint that comes with built in "speed dimples"? :-D
Ivan,
Can't argue with your logic. In 2011, first year for my bike, I built a small tail section which was (by the new 5" rule) ruled partial streamlining. I went 114 mph without the tail section, then mounted the primitive tail and added 3mph to get both ends of the record. In 2012 I built the full fairing and went 134 mph, so you see the advantage of the full meal deal. Just a few changes for 2013 and added another 9 mph.
I hope I get to see your bike, but I just can't make it to Speedweeks; only Bubs.
Tom
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Hi all. Sorry about the lack of updates. It`s not that I haven`t been doing anything, on the contrary I`ve been very busy working with getting eveything ready.
UPS finally came through with a decent offer. 1000$ shipping each way. On top of that comes 500$ worth of customs papers. Apparently some special papers are needed, to avoid paying import taxes going into the US and again when returning here. The UPS representative has been very helpful in explaining to me how it works, and they even offered to handle everything for 200$. An offer I definitely couldn`t refuse :-)
A big thank you, to all of you who have been helpful with advice regarding shipping, both here in the diary and through PM`s
Time to build a shipping container:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/2014-04-19155320_zpsc3da84ef.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/2014-04-19155320_zpsc3da84ef.jpg.html)
The size of the frame pretty much dictated the shape of the box, that has to stay below 1 m3. Lenght and height of frame +roughly an inch is the same as the inside measurements of box, and width was adjusted to just stay below the 1 m3. Had hoped to be allowed to make a square box and put it on a pallet, but was told the size of the pallet would be added to the final measurements. That`s the reason for the "fork lift opening" in the bottom of the boxframe.
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010191_zpscb132f4b.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010191_zpscb132f4b.jpg.html)
Finished box. Believe I have more hours in this thing than I have in my blower setup.
An unexpected problem was that I´m not allowed to ship to a private person, but have to ship to a company.
Wes of Four Aces Cycle Supply, has very kindly agreed to receive the bike, and keep it until I come and pick it up :cheers:
A few photos of the finished bike before disassembly:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010188_zps5d3172c3.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010188_zps5d3172c3.jpg.html)
In front of the container. Not much room to spare it looks like:
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/P1010192_zps200044f4.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/P1010192_zps200044f4.jpg.html)
Still have to figure out where to place the numbers :? Believe the sides of the fairing will be ok, but in case of a classchange to non streamlined I´m lost. Can`t see any way to mount plates without violating some rule. Bill has been in touch with tech, and they have promised to take a look. So far the plan is to just bring along the plates and a bunch of printed stickers with the numbers, and figure it out on the salt, in case they don`t get back before I start packing.
Still waiting on my leathers to come back from the taylor, but helmet and gloves have been bought, and I´ve started collecting spareparts from Ebay and other sources. Shipping price is independent of weight up to a metric ton, so may as well bring everything that can be crammed into the container :-D
Tom: I´d really love to meet up with you some day, and pick up some of that "go fast" knowledge you have aquired :cheers:. Maybe, just maybe I`ll show up at BUB`s in a couple of years :-)
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One final update:
Not nearly as much space in the container as hoped for. Well, managed to cram it all in with a little effort. On the bright side there won`t be much space for my stuff to bounce around to much
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/imagejpg1_zpsd5111260.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/imagejpg1_zpsd5111260.jpg.html)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/imagejpg1_zpsad52ae4b.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/imagejpg1_zpsad52ae4b.jpg.html)
Around the 28`th of May, when I know the Brits had their deadline I started to worry a bit, and called UPS twice a week. At last they got tired of me, and finally picked up the crate 2 weeks ago. They tell me not to worry, and promise to have it in California by the first of August
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/imagejpg1_zps529abe95.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/imagejpg1_zps529abe95.jpg.html)
Tickets have been ordered, and we`ll be flying into LAX late Sunday evening on the third of August. 2 return tickets were cheaper than freighting the bike, as expected. Makes you wonder :roll:
Had the bike drawn from a photo, and figured it would be a nice touch to have some t-shirts printed to hand out to those who have helped come this far. They`re not here yet, but looks nice in the photo. Being black they`ll help to keep us warm on the salt :-D
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/imagejpg1_zps7798eeaf.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/imagejpg1_zps7798eeaf.jpg.html)
Had a few parts coming in to late to be packed in the crate, so they`ll have to go in the suitcase. A spare blower may be overdoing it, but made a good deal on a brand new one, and couldn`t resist. Hopefully it won`t be needed and will find a new home on a streetbike after SW. Also Bill is running a similar unit, and I suspect someone else may be running one also, so if I won`t need it, it could maybe save the day for someone else.
The new piston is a stock 6,5:1, as opposed to the 8,7 in there now. If the current one decides to give up, going down in compression may be a wise move :-)
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/imagejpg1_zps4bb38f85.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/imagejpg1_zps4bb38f85.jpg.html)
Suddenly having the project out of the shop left a bit of a vacuum after some busy months, so to avoid going cold turkey I turned my old lawnmover into this. Doing almost 30 MPH I hope it won`t get me killed before Speedweek :-D
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/imagejpg1_zps0355aca1.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/imagejpg1_zps0355aca1.jpg.html)
See you guys on the salt!
D.... it felt good writing that :-D
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Hey, son of Rasmus.
Hope you have a great time over there.
Run fast and safe.
Do you know how to put that bike together?. :-D
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Hi Rasmussen,
See you on the Salt Flats, not too long to wait now...
Patrick
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The UPS folks do a good job. A few years ago they shipped an adult live killer whale from here in Oregon to some place far away. The big fish survived the trip and no one got eaten during the journey.
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I'd love to know how they'd handle Luis Suarez?. :-D
He bites.
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Problem:
(http://cdn2.coresites.mpora.com/surfeurope_new/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/luis-suarez-mountings.jpg)
Solution:
(http://cdn3-www.craveonline.com/assets/uploads/2013/04/Suarez_Cone.jpg.jpg)
;-) Patrick
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Thanks Mike! Very much appreciated :-)
Now about getting the bike properly assembled..... why do you think I got the t-shirts made with a blueprint on them? :-D. In all seriousness, if no parts have gone missing, I hope it'll be a straight forward 5-6 hour job :-)
Hi Patrick. Real glad to hear you'll be there. Really looking forward to meeting you in person. So is my friend Lars who's coming along. He rides a 1945 ULH and is a huge HD sidevalve fan :-)
WW, thanks for the help trying to ease my mind a bit. Everyone (including UPS themselves :-D) tells me not to worry. They know what they're doing. Well, I can honestly say, they have been extremely friendly and helpful all the way through (Karsten, if you're reading this, I don't have any sponsors at all :-D)
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Ivan, my mate Dave who owns a mega fast 125cc "postie bike" (111 mph record holder) has found a use for Aisin blowers
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t24/generatorshovel/assin_zpsc3f00f27.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/generatorshovel/media/assin_zpsc3f00f27.jpg.html)
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t24/generatorshovel/daves_zps01decc8a.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/generatorshovel/media/daves_zps01decc8a.jpg.html)
Thanks for your kind offer too mate
Tiny
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Damm Tiny seeing that kind of hurts :-o
Short update: got a phonecall from UPS last Friday (yes 4 days ago, one week before SW), my bike had been "misplaced" and had been found in Hamburg Germany!!! Can't even explain how that made me feel, but it wasn't good :cry:
Was leaving home early Sunday, not knowing anything else than UPS would try to figure something out, and being in a miserably mood. Had my airplane ticket been refundable I would have cancelled and waited another year :-(
Is in LA at the moment, and woke up this morning to an email with good news. Bike is being flown into SLC. ETA Thursday morning :-D
There's still hope. See you on the salt :-D
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No tour is complete without a visit to Hamburg!. :-D
Glad they sorted it out.
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Jeeez Ivan, your cutting it fine :-o
At this stage, Wilso will be at Bonneville before you (he would make a great addition to your pit crew)
The dunny roll Aisin was beyond repair before making it to the rest room (dunny) wall, so there's some more good news for you.
I HOPE your bike gets reunited with you SOON mate.
Tiny
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Good luck, Ivan. It looks like everything will turn out OK.
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Ivan:
Friday is not bad, pits are open until 8pm. Just be a busy day. Good luck and glad your scoot is in route.
BR
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And with the rain there is a day delay----- :-(
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Thanks a lot guys. Really appreciate it :-)
We rolled into SLC this morning after a long drive from LA only interrupted by a short stop for a few hours of sleep. Didn't have an address to go to or any paperwork, as all papers had been made in the very last minute and had to be sent with the crate. The first UPS we went to couldn't do anything without any paperwork and told us to go another office. Here we where told to go to customs, which we couldn't do, again due to the lack of papers. After a lot of explaining a very nice lady said: I can see this is important to you, so she left her desk, got with us in the truck, and went all over SLC to locate the crate, get the attached paperwork and get us through customs. A couple of exciting hours that helped restore my faith in humanity.
(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq90/irasmusdk/imagejpg1_zps28b635cb.jpg) (http://s436.photobucket.com/user/irasmusdk/media/imagejpg1_zps28b635cb.jpg.html)
We rolled into Wendover this afternoon.
Sadly, as most of you probably know, to see the lakebed covered with water. So far we've been told the pits are closed until Sunday morning. We'll hope for the best :-)
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Hey Ivan, what an adventure!!!.
Glad you met that nice lady. A bunch of flowers?. :cheers:
Holding thumbs for you.
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Gee Ivan, I think you were kissed on the **** by a fairy :cheers:
I can imagine how you felt jumping those hurdles, and I can see how you felt after the bike was back in your hands.
Well done lads :-D :-D :-D
Tiny
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Ivan:
Good to hear you were finally re-united with your crate. Nothing is easy at Bonneville.
Looks like you will get to run on Monday. On the bright side you will have some time to mill around and meet people before you get busy racing.
Good luck
BR
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Congratulations on your Mohave mile times. It looks like you got a bunch of nice runs.
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Hello Ivan,,, my Great Friend from the Mojave Mile…..
Are you planing on coming over to try the salt this year ?????
Robert "Smitty" Smith
The Baron Race Team
Moto Morini 350 A(M)PS-PBG