Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: 93SVT5.0TT on April 21, 2013, 09:56:52 PM
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So this is my 93 Ranger 5.0. I have had this truck for over 10 years now, as it was my first vehicle. It's mostly been a street/strip/show vehicle over it's life, and was a daily driver for me in high school. I don't want it to become a dedicated racer, I love driving it on the street too.
About the combo.
It's a 93 Splash, 3" lowering beams in the front, 4.5" lower in the back via flipped axle. That setup is an 8.8 from an '01 Explorer, so it has limited slip, 3.73 gears, disc brakes, and 31 spline axles where most 8.8's have 28 splines. The engine is a 5.0 from an '89 mustang. I'm in the process of added twin turbos to the setup, along with the prep's for Speed Week 2014. There's too much to list about the engine, but let's just say I'm hoping to limit it at 425 rwhp, so I don't crack the block. Eventually I will get a Dart/Boss block and set it up properly, but I'm not made of money! :-P The trans is a T5 from a 91 mustang.
I have a cardomain page for it too if anyone wants to see more pics of it all put together before I started this twin turbo project. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/217533/1993-ford-ranger-regular-cab/ (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/217533/1993-ford-ranger-regular-cab/)
To the pics... oh and sorry for the junky iphone quality, everything from this post forward will be better. :|
This was about a year ago, when I first started pulling things apart
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0067_zps41281d3a.jpg)
With the Trick Flow upper intake off. Note the mess of wiring.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0175_zps48e8e031.jpg)
With the heater core removed, this side of the engine bay opens up nicely.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0178_zps9be4ce38.jpg)
Dash removed, can see the ignition box.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0180_zps10ca8fa3.jpg)
My box full of turbo and interior parts
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0182_zps25fb4e86.jpg)
The lesser seen side of the dash, there is some opportunity for weight removal here. I will probably upgrade to an aftermarket or custom built dash in the future, but I had to remove that from my scope of work for the time being.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0183_zpsba9a6a0e.jpg)
This is your brain on EFI. I'm planning on almost completely re-doing the engine wiring, as the fella who did the engine swap before I owned the truck decided to leave in the ranger engine harness. :?
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0186_zps4250ede1.jpg)
...and this is your brain on drugs. :roll: Finding this kind of thing in my wiring harness makes my brain want to explode. This connection was taped over.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0187_zpseb9063de.jpg)
Gots ta love Autosol! :lol: This is an MSD alternator, 160 amp. Good little unit, got it before they started making everything in china.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0189_zps3e265094.jpg)
With the fenders and inner fenders removed. Not sure yet if I will run inner fenders or not...
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0191_zps24297a1f.jpg)
No wiring mess cleans it up a bit
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0192_zpsf9d40936.jpg)
An old battery box I'm going to clean up. Will be moving the battery to the box.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0196_zpsb5010e0f.jpg)
Lower intake removed. The plan is to tear down the engine, and spend a bit of time making the block stronger and improve the coolant flow a bit.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0197_zps3a25f219.jpg)
Valvetrain. Comp lifters and roller fulcrum rockers. The cam has plenty of lift for a stock headed 5.0, so I stuck with 1.6 ratio rockers.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0198_zps7ff73f28.jpg)
Stock E7 heads, I put in 1.94/1.54" valves a few years back and also did a bit of hand porting. I don't have flow numbers :-( So this time around I'm just going to polish the combustion chamber pockets to reduce pre-ignition tendency.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0199_zpsb240eb4b.jpg)
With the heads off, getting ready to pull it.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0201_zps6606e82e.jpg)
Hey look, motor mounts
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0202_zps8af27468.jpg)
big mess
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0206_zpsff160af0.jpg)
more of the same
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0207_zpsd98f874e.jpg)
the short block on the stand
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0208_zpsaa7823ca.jpg)
bottom end of the short block. Turns out that's a Melling M-68HV on there, bonus! :cheers:
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/IMG_0210_zpscef5600a.jpg)
Well hey that's about it for now, thanks for checking it out! :-)
Stay tuned for progress updates, and let me know if you have any questions/comments!
Tristan
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Tristan, it might be a good idea to clean up those wire ends and solder everything together before you tape it up. It looks like this truck is not all Ranger but it is all Ford.
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They say if you can't take a joke don't buy a Ford :-D. Go for it man.
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We used to solder stuff all the time, on cars and airplanes... but a good crimp will last longer in a vibration environment. Solder will make the copper brittle, just be careful not to over crimp. If you can find heat shrink with internal glue (military grade) it will seal the connection from salt corrosion.
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I was planning on using the crimp connectors with the built in heat shrink for most connections, but may have to solder a connection like that one where multiple lines are going into one line. Stainless, is there a solder you can get that has similar elasticity to copper?? I found the heat shrink you are talking about on McMaster-Carr, thanks for the advice! :cheers:
Wobbly, I'm not going to be using any tape on this harness, hate the stuff with a passion! haha What I will be using is a "self wrapping split braided sleeve" from Pegasus Racing for abrasion resistance, and a heat reflective flexible metallic convoluted tubing from McMaster-Carr for any areas where heat will be a problem. Will be better than factory when I'm done :-D
Looks like Ford jokes are inescapable... lol :-P
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Tristan,
Looking good so far! :cheers:
As I posted before, let me know if I can help with anything.
Gregg
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Tristan, there are actually barrel crimps that will work for situations like that, the key is the right crimper and finding the barrels. When I put the Motec in the lakester last year I had to improvise on a couple of them but I'll let you know if they worked out OK in about 10 years :-D
Don't know of a solder that will stay flexible as the wire, there are things that require solder, those are the connections that seem to fail when you need them most... :-o
Everyone hates tape, but we still use it here and there :cheers:
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Thanks Gregg, will do! :cheers:
Rob, I found some 3 and 4 way ring terminal style crimps. I suppose I could use regular ring terminals and rivet them together haha
you mean you don't inspect your wiring harness between seasons?? :-P
I would imagine the tough part is simulating the intense desert heat during testing...
Tristan
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Tristan, there are actually barrel crimps that will work for situations like that, the key is the right crimper and finding the barrels. When I put the Motec in the lakester last year I had to improvise on a couple of them but I'll let you know if they worked out OK in about 10 years :-D
Don't know of a solder that will stay flexible as the wire, there are things that require solder, those are the connections that seem to fail when you need them most... :-o
Everyone hates tape, but we still use it here and there :cheers:
Anybody ever try Permatex "liquid tape" from a can to seal electrical connections and joints for protection against corrosion? Any long term result conclusions good or bad?
Ed
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Rob, I found some 3 and 4 way ring terminal style crimps. I suppose I could use regular ring terminals and rivet them together haha
you mean you don't inspect your wiring harness between seasons??
Tristan, take a 12 gauge terminal, cut the ring end off, and you have a wire splice crimp for multiple wires, be sure to file the sharp parts
If I had an x-ray machine I could look at it under the shrink... we shrink over connections on switches, have multiple layers where wires join a bundle...
Everything works in the shop, the electrical gremlins appear on the salt, last year Pork Pie was running for his 200 MPH back up run when the shifter solenoid quit.... worked fine until it could cause the greatest impact :|
That's racing on the salt
If it was easy everybody would be doing it :cheers:
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For some extra-critical connections I use liquid electrical tape. And it does work. For instance, the thermocouple for our hot tub spends 100% of the time under water in 100++F water. The first one died in a few weeks. The second one - when I remembered to use the liquid tape - has been fine for over a year. It's non-repairable, so you'd best use it on something that's going to stay permanent.
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My mustang harness had a bunch of that liquid electrical tape. I hated every minute of taking it apart, but I must admit that the copper underneath looked pretty good. It might be a good thing to put in the hauler for race day, but I will try to use heat shrink only I think. How many of you guys have regretted a 'permanent' change/fix/etc on race day? As Rob was saying, Mr. Murphy rears his head at the worst possible time. :-P
I like the ring terminal idea, Rob. My 2nd favorite web site, McMaster-Carr, also has butt connectors with different sized ends. Many ways to make it professional. :-D
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Thanks to everybody for the feedback on the tape out of a can. I recently picked up a can of Permatex, figured it might be easier to dab into tight spots than trying to get a wrap of tape around them. I haven't used it all that much so far so can't honestly offer any valid results yet.
I'll admit to far more than my share of regrets much later about using the latest "trick of the day" for quick and easy fixes. One big reason for me adding "long term" to my results question, I'll be considering the permanent factor more now in my decisions to use it.
Ed
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So the bike guys out there may be familiar with RB Racing. I found a great article on their web site that shows how to do a professional wiring harness (ie: Formula 1 quality) that they have used on Harley's at Bonneville. This was exactly the kind of thing I had in mind. I will cheap out a little bit on it, though!
Ed, they use a 1 part epoxy in areas where a shrink sleeve isn't practical or just can't be used. They also have links to suppliers in the article.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html (http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html)
Tristan
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Good site, thanks for the link. Here is a favorite supplier of mine for wiring supplies.
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/
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I was planning on using the crimp connectors with the built in heat shrink for most connections, but may have to solder a connection like that one where multiple lines are going into one line. Stainless, is there a solder you can get that has similar elasticity to copper?? I found the heat shrink you are talking about on McMaster-Carr, thanks for the advice! :cheers:
Wobbly, I'm not going to be using any tape on this harness, hate the stuff with a passion! haha What I will be using is a "self wrapping split braided sleeve" from Pegasus Racing for abrasion resistance, and a heat reflective flexible metallic convoluted tubing from McMaster-Carr for any areas where heat will be a problem. Will be better than factory when I'm done :-D
Looks like Ford jokes are inescapable... lol :-P
Yup, I've been on the receiving end for years. I thought I'd just get your blood going a bit. :-D Go Ford or go home. :cheers:
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Thanks for the link Tman! Good selection of switches there.
Cheers on the Blue Oval! :cheers:
Tristan
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So over the last couple weeks I have ran the main feeder line to my garage, so now I have power for my air compressor, welder and plasma cutter. Let the games begin! :evil:
So I have the heads off and I'm going to polish the combustion chambers. Here I duct taped the face of the head so if I slip its no problem.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130510_194237_zpsf80261b4.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130510_194237_zpsf80261b4.jpg.html)
Removed the valves with one of those junky screw type spring compressors.... kind of a drawback living in a smallish city, can't get the right tools without ordering online. :roll:
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130511_142219_zps20bc90c1.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130511_142219_zps20bc90c1.jpg.html)
chambers partially polished
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130511_142225_zps7eea2b76.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130511_142225_zps7eea2b76.jpg.html)
here's a fully polished chamber, I'm not going so far as to mirror shine them, a rotary diamond file will do a good enough job for this build.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130511_154439_zps9ee26199.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130511_154439_zps9ee26199.jpg.html)
Before I pulled my engine apart a heard a slight ticking, and I thought it was the lifters. I adjusted the lifters a couple times, but it made no difference. Checked the lifters when I pulled them, and all seems well. (they are comp cams hydraulic rollers.) but I may have found the cause of the ticking here. :cheers:
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130511_154549_zpsc852f60b.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130511_154549_zpsc852f60b.jpg.html)
2 exhaust valves have some galling on the stem, both were on the same bank. Will have to get replacements and new guides..
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130511_154633_zpsc46ddd7b.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130511_154633_zpsc46ddd7b.jpg.html)
so now I'm on to deburring some parts of the block, and opening up the coolant passages where there is restriction to flow. I expect it's hot in Bonneville... 8-)
Will post more soon. :-)
Tristan
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You're getting there Tristan. Keep at it. :cheers:
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When I still was working at Montana Power we used the liquid electrical tape for all kinds of wet connections and also heat shrinks with a liquid inside that melted at high temperature. Either way works well but I preferred the heat shrinks, just dont overheat them or shrink them too fast with high heat
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Plenty left, Mike, as you know with your project :cheers:
mt, McMaster Carr has some adhesive sealing heat shrink that sound like what you are talking about. I'll make sure to get a heat gun, so I don't shrink them too fast, thanks for the advice! :-)
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Wiring will drive one nuts. i don't know a thing about electrical. I'm good at taking directions though. I rewired my F2 car by taking one wire off at a time and replacing. Neatest job ever. :-D I admire you guys that know electrical.
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Wiring will drive one nuts. i don't know a thing about electrical. I'm good at taking directions though. I rewired my F2 car by taking one wire off at a time and replacing. Neatest job ever. :-D I admire you guys that know electrical.
It helps to have had amateur radio as a hobby when you were a kid and to have built lots of Heathkits. 8-)
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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All right, the hijack continues for at least one post. I built a bunch of Heathkits, too -- partly because the factory was about 15 miles from where I lived and I could go get either factory pricing and/or "defective" units or best -- "demo" models that were factory assembled. I enjoyed building them -- great instructions and fun to do. I remember building a color television for someone that wanted it. I got to have the fun without having to actually use the set. I don't remember hearing back from that guy, so the TV must have worked pretty well.
Yes, Heathkits were good training. I wish today's assemble-it-yourself thingies were so well designed and had such good step-by-step instructions.
Hijack over for me, at least.
Jon a/k/a WA8GDW
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Wiring will drive one nuts. i don't know a thing about electrical. I'm good at taking directions though. I rewired my F2 car by taking one wire off at a time and replacing. Neatest job ever. :-D I admire you guys that know electrical.
If you don't mind different colored wires find as many different colors as you can that are available. If you are stuck on having only one color, they sell wire numbers that Electricians use, put same number on each end of wire and keep a record of where each numbered wire goes.
Tom G.
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Well I don't know what a Heathkit is, but I will be re-using the factory wire, so it will stay color coded. :)
Went to the US border to pick up some parts this weekend;
SFI Bellhousing
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130519_170831_zpse07a8340.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130519_170831_zpse07a8340.jpg.html)
Racing seat (will keep the street seats for around town)
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130519_170848_zps2cc7d113.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130519_170848_zps2cc7d113.jpg.html)
Also picked up the roll cage, hood pins, main girdle, pushrod guide plates, ARP rod bolts, steering u-joints (so I can clear the turbo headers), a washable oil filter, and a couple wicked impact wrenches.
More importantly, I fired up the TIG for the first time this weekend! :evil:
humble beginnings :oops:
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130520_151624_zps2fe7442d.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130520_151624_zps2fe7442d.jpg.html)
but improving with each weld
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130522_201111_zps9b8c0c02.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130522_201111_zps9b8c0c02.jpg.html)
This is the beginning of the obligatory welding cart that is every person's first welding project lol
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130522_201135_zps9b9007b2.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130522_201135_zps9b9007b2.jpg.html)
I will post the Solidworks model and the real thing when it is done :cheers:
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Hey all, been awhile since the last update, was in eastern Europe for a few weeks, traveling for work for a few weeks, and have been building for a few weeks. So since last time:
I finished the welding cart
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130601_161320_zps83ba870a.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130601_161320_zps83ba870a.jpg.html)
Stripped the interior
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130601_161348_zpsa8c2d32e.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130601_161348_zpsa8c2d32e.jpg.html)
Received my roll cage kit
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130602_135641_zps960d55a5.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130602_135641_zps960d55a5.jpg.html)
Filled the box of the truck with various planned parts :-P
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130612_205551_zps7303b727.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130612_205551_zps7303b727.jpg.html)
Welded on the anti-pierce plates. This took a long time, because of the different thickness between the plate and the floor of the truck
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130827_210000_zpsad8b6774.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130827_210000_zpsad8b6774.jpg.html)
Fit up the new seat
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130910_181508_zps7c6c5913.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130910_181508_zps7c6c5913.jpg.html)
Turbos! I disassembled them to an extent to replace some of the fasteners with higher quality pieces. Still waiting on some fasteners to finish the job. Has anyone used Nord-Lock washers before? I got some for this project and man they kick as5!!
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130910_181528_zps781cd005.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130910_181528_zps781cd005.jpg.html)
here is the block off plate and v-band flange I had made up. I have to convert these turbos from internal to external wastegate, so these plates are needed.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130910_181542_zps16e7b525.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130910_181542_zps16e7b525.jpg.html)
rear hoop tacked in place
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130914_115024_zps16e99f6f.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130914_115024_zps16e99f6f.jpg.html)
these are some footpegs for a buddies V-max that I welded. The TIG skills are getting better through practice.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130915_161841_zps3551768a.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130915_161841_zps3551768a.jpg.html)
Engine back from machine shop
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130920_170447_zps1036d1fd.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130920_170447_zps1036d1fd.jpg.html)
getting ready to weld the v-band flanges to the block off plates
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130920_170500_zps9bc1a699.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130920_170500_zps9bc1a699.jpg.html)
clean parts
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130920_170521_zps49f4d3a7.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130920_170521_zps49f4d3a7.jpg.html)
in the box you can see some hose I got from McMaster Carr for the vacuum system. I am going to try to use the quick push-connect fittings and manifolds that are commonplace in robotics for the vacuum system. The 5.0 Ford has main vacuum takeoff underneath the manifold and it's a huge PITA! So my plan is to route those to a common manifold with the push-lock fittings. Never seen it done on a car before, so should be interesting to see if it holds up to the heat and vibration.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130920_170548_zpsb968420f.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130920_170548_zpsb968420f.jpg.html)
Almost finished block offs. Sent them to my co-workers machine shop to face them, as the welding has a tendency to pull the plate out of shape. I was surprised how much considering the plate is 1/2" and I didn't pour a ton of heat into the weld.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130920_174718_zps88ff0b5a.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130920_174718_zps88ff0b5a.jpg.html)
here you can see the compressor side of the turbo with the hole for the internal wastegate.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130921_142357_zps9b460437.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130921_142357_zps9b460437.jpg.html)
Block off plates resting on the turbo. I drilled holes to dowel the plate for perfect alignment of the exhaust orifice.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130921_142450_zpsea359125.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130921_142450_zpsea359125.jpg.html)
TURBO
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130921_142831_zps029c6822.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130921_142831_zps029c6822.jpg.html)
I polished the stock valve covers years ago, and now I'm going a different direction with the look. This is a "before" pic...... stay tuned! :cheers:
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/93SVT/20130922_194825_zps1ddd3355.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/93SVT/media/20130922_194825_zps1ddd3355.jpg.html)
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Looking good. From the cart to the truck you've done nice work. Good to see you're back at it.
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Thanks Mike! How's the other side of the world this time of year?
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Where did you get the cage kit from? You probably read the rule book in regards to the cage but was just checking. I would assume it would be a custom kit to abide by the SCTA rules?
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Hi Joe, I got the kit from Jeg's actually. It is designed for NHRA, and best I can tell from the rule book, a cage built to NHRA will pass for SCTA. But, yes, I am also checking and measuring again before each weld :)
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On you vaccum tubing route it thru five sleeve. It won't take much heat.Is the roll bar 1-5/8 .120, wall? Double with the truck committee.
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Thanks Mike! How's the other side of the world this time of year?
It's not hockey season, that's for sure. It's hot and we had our first thunderstorm last night. :-D
Your project is coming along nicely. When you fit the cage tie it into the cab where ever you can. (Ron Fournier, Metal Fabricator's Handbook).
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Hey Glen,
Will do on the vacuum line, was planning to do that near the turbos anyhow. :-) Roll cage is mainly 1 5/8" .134 wall. With the NHRA rules, the cage cannot be below 0.118 in any place and 0.120 wall usually doesn't make the thickness requirement in the bends, once typical manufacturing tolerance is included. So 0.134 is the best we can do. The less critical parts are from 1 1/4" 0.134 wall. Are there contact names/emails for the truck committee on the website somewhere?
Mike, good to hear you've heard of hockey haha jk :cheers: should be only of the start of rainy season there I imagine... :|
Good point on the tying into the body, especially since the body on these trucks are essentially 2 shells glued together :-o
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I've used some of the Jegs kit myself, but replaced the 1 1/4 pieces with 1 5/8 though out. You can get replacement 1 5/8 from Jegs pretty cheap. Phil
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Hey Glen,
Will do on the vacuum line, was planning to do that near the turbos anyhow. :-) Roll cage is mainly 1 5/8" .134 wall. With the NHRA rules, the cage cannot be below 0.118 in any place and 0.120 wall usually doesn't make the thickness requirement in the bends, once typical manufacturing tolerance is included. So 0.134 is the best we can do. The less critical parts are from 1 1/4" 0.134 wall. Are there contact names/emails for the truck committee on the website somewhere?
Mike, good to hear you've heard of hockey haha jk :cheers: should be only of the start of rainy season there I imagine... :|
Good point on the tying into the body, especially since the body on these trucks are essentially 2 shells glued together :-o
I'm a rare bird. I know what a Newfie is and who we call a Quebeqois. :-D :-D :-D
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What Phil said. ALL CAGE TUBES must conform to the minimum requirements in the Rule Book....The only exceptions I am thinking would be for the seat back reinforcements, as discussed on some other Builds here. I`m not the Tech Chief though, so run all your stuff through the Committee Chair for your Class.... :wink: