Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: RICK on April 01, 2006, 07:24:48 AM
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Last night I pulled an all-nighter laying down glass/resin/mat. Sometime around 2:30 this morn,run out of cloth. I found an old exploded SIR passenger air bag,,,,, seems to be made of high quality cloth,,,hope it works?????? guess I'll find out tomarrow when I try to pull it from the mold.
thanks, RICK
p.s. Anybody know why these pictures are so BIG?
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Dont worry I resized it for you.
In order for them to fit the page you should resize the image to something under 600x480 with any photo program. Then you will be golden..
Nice work on the glass hope everything turns out good for you.
Jon
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The first piece 'poped' out, and all is good! Now on to the doors, deck lid etc.,,,
RICK
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Next step? Lay out some frame rails? I saw where Summner started with wood, thought I might give it a try. Just rembered that a 2x4 is really a 1 1/2x3 1/2. Ran down to the saw mill where they start out full size[2x4] But I'm thinking of skipin the wood route and going straight to steel
Now if I start screwin up,,,,PLEASE jump right in and let me know if theres a better way.
thanks RICK
PS seeing that wooden motorscooter might had sumthin to do with changin my mind too.
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Rick,
I am impressed with you glass work!! Must not be your first time. I find it interesting how we can put some rails down and add a body and it really looks like sh-t is happening, I have some pictures of my roadster under construction from a couple of years ago and man it looked like I could drive it! Well it's been apart and together at least 5 time since then and maybe I'm doing the assembly the last time right now! But from the looks of your shop you've done this type of thing before and know how the big parts are easy and the details take all the time.
Best of luck and looking forward to seeing you at the salt!!!
Rex
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Some years ago a group did a mockup of a chassis using PVC pipe. It worked great and saved a lot of time in the real chassis. As I recall it was the BMW streamliner car. It only ran one year, don't know what happened to it. Neat car, small frontal area, etc.
Glen :shock:
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..........the right Reverend Hedgash did a mock up of our subframe in heavy cardboard tube (the type used for rolls of fabric) which is easy to come by.It was easy to work with a tenon saw and a coarse rasp , yes you heard right he notched it all and zipped it up with packing tape.Then I copied it in thin wall steel tube . The cardboard was great because we could try all sorts of things(placement of triangulation) and in actual size and it was quick and cheap. Once done in steel we could sit in it and drop the block into it...Mind , this was done after a long time tooling around with 3D renders because we wnted to keep the original bellytank dimensions.
I like steel , zap , done....my old man was a wood man and my brother makes a living out of it but it doesn't "talk" to me like steel :wink:
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I'm using plywood disks and PVC tubing to mock up the chassis for my Tank. I've got one of those plastic Flathead blocks, too. It's really easy to work with and it perks up my living room. Wayno
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OK,,,,,,,Going with "ZAP DONE" moving on to steel. With only 4 1/2 months to go, I decided to skip the bamboo and duct tape.
Yesterday I spotted an old school bus with a tall deck big block chev waiting for me in the local salvage yard. Could be my new motor? Can we say A/cgalt?
Last night I layed out some 2x4x.120, got the hot glue gun,[mig], and stuck it together. Pretty much tryed to follow the stock curve and shape of a 34 frame.
Rick
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:twisted: Better look that tall blk over real careful before you get to excited , lot of them are 366 {small bore w 427 crank] could make good eng depending what cubs you want.
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Looks like I scored. It was a 7.0,,,427 tall deck school bus. Now all I have to do is add an new 'affordable?' stroker crank,reasonably priced +.400 rods, with a .070 over bore and should end up with 498,,,,=A.
And with around 4 1/2 months left, I need to get crackin,,,,,,"spend less time typin, and more time wrenchin!" "Yes dear"
If you need me I'll be down in the shop. Rick
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Where do I find the pictures of the work?
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If you don't see the photos in three of the posts above it might be because you are not logged in. When i am not logged in - no photos. Then I log in and the photos can be viewed.[/quote]
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Check your Private message box when you get a chance
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Thanks to all that responded, and helped me to decide on 'SUSPENSION?' After concidering all options, I decided to give it some and to make it independent. In the spirit of 'old school' having to build everything from scratch, I plan to TRY to make/fabricate as much as time and money will allow.
It don't look like much, and took more tape measure time than I thought it would, but heres the first draft of the control arms.
Let me know if this looks wrong
Thanks RICK
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Wanting the best of all worlds, I'm trying to build a front with as much caster adjustment as possible. Something like 15 to 18 degrees for tracking true at high speed, but then be able to turn it down to around 3 to 5 so I can turn it around while crusin the fair grounds. I made the upper control arm mount so that they can slide front to back in their mounting tube. Camber adjustments will be made by threading the poly bushed rodend in or out. I've got some coil-over shocks from an old project around here ,,,,somewhere. Maybe today would be a good day pick-up my mess and try to find some of those part-n-pieces I've been hiding all these years?
thanks for lookin RICK
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Keep at it . I enjoy seeing,hearing about what others are doing/building.
And I learn more every time. ( I need all the help I can get). That is one bad a. car. Terry
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Next installment. Pretty much have the frt suspension figured out,,,time to move to the rear. A couple years ago on a rainy weekend I tryed to make my own rear end housing out of scrap 4130 tube and sheet pieces that I had laying around. After sitting inthe corner of the shop for years it started to rust pretty good. I decided to either use it or pitch it.
I'm gonna use it.
I squared it up, and mounted some brakes....with a rear park brake caliper. Man that thing got rusty on me.
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Got to do somthing to get rid of that rust!
After I got all my brackets glued on,,,I washed it off and out with some acid to eat off the rust. Then I took it to the far end of my driveway[ or as far as my garden hose would reach] and pressure washed and neutralized it. Look like brand new metal,,,,but,
Before I could get it back and dry it off or oil it up,,,that chrome moly stuff oxidizes so fast.
At least it not heavy pitted rust and only 'surface' rusy now. Should clean off with a scothbrite.
DAMN that humidity!
thanks RICK
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Over the weekend I cut about 3 inches out of the roof. Then I screwed up [in a hurry] and put it back on. I should have bent and welded up the roll cage when I had it off!
I got the floor and fire wall in, most the stuff is just 'tacked' in place so I can be sure it all fits. Still need to decide which rear carrier to use. The whole idea when I started this adventure was to use what I already had, and to fabricate the rest,,,,,,within limits.
After reading the rule book again, I think my frame does'nt hang down low enough from the door frt to rear wheel? might be a good place for a weight bar /ballast?
Last night I installed the door glass,,,inspired by 'fastnlo' I put them on power regulators. Now I'm thinking about A/C,,,,,it gets hot in August.
thanks RICK
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Rick:
There's a product I've heard nothing but good things about although I haven't used it myself. It's called Gibbs Brand Penetrant. It apparently breaks down rust, preserves the surface and you can paint right over it. It's probably worth a try for the few bucks investment and if it works as well as all its proponents claim you can let us all know.
Pete
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Check out Gibbs at www.roadsters.com as he is a dealer
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I'm thinking that I've got all my differential whoa's behind me now.[no pun] The biggest problem is probally that its chromemoly, that stuff gets rusty if it gets cloudy outside. Anyhow,,,,,,,,I got some stuff off the shelf at the local hardeware store in a pump spray, RUSTAWAY or RUST-B-GONE, I don't rember the exact name, I got in a hurry and didn't have time to send off for the good stuff. It seems that one of my biggest hurdles is that living out in the boonies, if I need anykind of special part, its a 2 hour drive.,,,,,,rant rant
Sorry.
So I got the rear end hung. I had some extra Jerry Bickle 4 Link brackets, threaded some 1 in. x.188 wall to make the tubes. I do need to remember to drill a vent hole, and figure out some kind of 'safety' strap for the link bars? Any ideas?
Also,,any thoughts on interior color? I know morton white on the outside is a no no.But some guys like the inside light, bright, so they can see stuff inside the car. Others say paint it dark and dull, keep the reflections down?
I checked out my cabinet of leftover/extra paint. I've got a lot of shades of red and yellow, not enough of any one to paint a car.Thinking of throwing them all together. Orange.
Let me know what you think. Thanks RICK
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Hey Rick you are getting a lot done. Hope you make it this year.
I see you aren't too far from where I grew up, north St. Louis county. I was in Missouri a couple weeks ago to see my mom, but she is the other side of the state in Branson.
Oh yeah, the color. Orange sounds good to me and looks good on the salt :) .
c ya in August,
Sum
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Sum, McCluer 75.
RICK
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Sum, McCluer 75.
RICK
I went there when it first opened in Jr. High and graduated from the High School in '62. I think we might have been one of the last classes there and then it became a Jr. High if I remember right. I grew up about 1/4 mile off of Hudson rd. (unincorporated then, but annexed by Ferguson later).
When I was about 14 my mom was on the school board and I think McCluer was the superintendent or ex-superintendent, and I went quail hunting on his farm, somewhere west of St. Louis. He wasn't well so I went by myself with his dogs and an Ithaca 28 gauge he lent me. I was in heaven, but afraid I might accidentally shoot one of the dogs. Well the dogs and the quail all survived the day :) .
c ya in August,
Sum
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NO WAY!!!!! How bizarre! Sum, I grew up about a 1/2 mile from there. Sum, I'll send you a PM.
Mean while,,,anybody got any ideas on a clean method of 'safety looping' those 4 link bars or suggestions on interior color?
Thanks RICK
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As for interior color, we used two-part black bedliner paint on our roadster. It seals up stuff, is durable, and covers ugly oops pretty well. Non reflective to a degree, too. The commercially-applied stuff is the best, but the do-it-yourself stuff has lasted and held up pretty well.
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Got to do somthing to get rid of that rust!
DAMN that humidity!
thanks RICK
Agricultural or chemical supply companies sell phosphoric acid at higher concentrations for a fraction of the price that the "relabelled" rust products do....I always use Sodium bicarbonate to neutralize after reduction which gives a nice clean finish ........never tried it on 4130 .I steer away from anything that you put on and leave there because you'll never know if the reaction is complete or the surface pH neutral but more importantly you can't wire brush or sand it and removing all the impurities from the surface is the only way to make sure you won't be doing the same job next year..I reckon that stuff is for wrought iron and little else . Sounds wierd but a molasses tank is pretty hard to beat.A friend said once "and they're so quick " ....I said " na it's been in there for weeks " to which he replied " yeah and all you had to do was put it in there ."....he's right .it's the easiest and least time consuming but you need to have your gig organised to take advantage of it.
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German tanks in WW II used to paint the inside light blue (even lighter than Petty blue). Probably to make them more cheerful and homey.