Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: 55chevr on April 02, 2012, 10:39:14 PM
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I was originally going to use a Z1 type drag frame for the new bike and shoe horn in a newer ZX10 engine. Similar to what I did with the ironhead / evo Buell build. I picked up a 2006 ZX10R engine off Ebay and a dummy engine locally. When I tried to mock up the engine in the frame it reminded me of someone trying to put a jet engine in a biplane. The design of the new ZX10 isnt compatible with the older aircooled Z1-s. I was struck by the design that Oz did on his CBR and asked for and was given permission by Oz to use his design. He also sent me some detailed photos of the engine mounting system ... It is a slick frame design and it has been raced successfully.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/ZXFrameC.jpg)
Built the jig using 2 - 8' long 2" x 4" steel channels ... 2" x 3" box tubing for the head post
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/ZXFrameD.jpg)
Machined up a steel neck to take stock ZX-9 bearings to match the donor front end.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/ZXFramea.jpg)
Deviated slightly from Oz plans by using 1" x 2" box tubing for the axle ... built an engine mount that sets the engine in proper alignment with the rear wheel and sprocket and 3" of ground clearance.
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Looking forward Joe!
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Looking good Joe, will be watching this.
Bit puzzled by the 1" x 2" rhs axle?
Cheers
jon
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That is a good idea how you set up the table & etc. to be level and plumb. You can quickly check its alignment and adjust as needed. A lot of folks do not do that and it is hard for them to keep everything correct.
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Looking good Joe, will be watching this.
Bit puzzled by the 1" x 2" rhs axle?
Cheers
jon
Correction 1 x 2 box tubing for the axle mount ... I have axle adjusters from an S1 Buell that I am planning on using.
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I like your frame design, Joe. I can't tell the profile of the two main tubes, but the one thing on my bike that is a small problem, is the width where my hips and legs must hug the frame to keep my knees tucked in. Mine is 8" wide and is almost too wide to straddle. Doing it again, I would narrow it up just a bit more at that point.
Tom
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Very cool Joe :cheers:
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Thats a lovely bit of turning on the neck and locators!! are you going to slot the RHS and use internal adjusters if so make them nice and long for different gearing.I cant tell if they have already been done but good idea to do it before you weld them in.
Cheers Oz
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2 inch slots already done ... the S1 Buell axle adjusters are for 25mm axle which same as the XB9 axle I have from donor parts ...
Joe
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I'm not familiar with Buel chain adjusters, I hunted around for some decent wall thickness RHS for the adjuster I wanted to use.
Then I changed an cut one side out of the RHS and boxed the top bottom and end in when I worked out I wasn't going to get decent clamping until I wound it up tight enough to bend the wall of the RHS.
That and when I worked out I didn't enough room in my body for a Hayabussa width swingarm with the wider style adjusters.
Buel ones may work differently but just thought I'd share in case it helps.
Cheers
jon
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This is what the Buell axle sliders look like ...
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Should work good but you may want to extend the slots a little and the studs on the adjusters just for a greater range of sprocket combinations, just a thought buddy easier to do now rather than later.
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I was planning 2" of travel ...
Joe
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Hi Joe
Maybe you could get the Dia. of the largest & smallest rear sprockts you would use, and draw it out for how much axle travel you would need .
And modify you adjusters now and know it will work down the road when you change a gear.
Just my 2 c worth.
Looking forward to seeing your bike all done and at Salt City
I too scratch built a frame way back in 72' for a light weight fire road special, using a 386cc Honda 4 valve single that came out 220 lbs ready to fly. It was all .049 chrome moly and nickel plated.
Don
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a different length of chain might work.
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(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P4040475.jpg)
Steering neck ---
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P4040473.jpg)
40* Rake
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P4040472.jpg)
Tacked in place
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(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P4040471.jpg)
There is 2" of travel in the rear axle sliders ... should do most any chain adjustment ... will take up to 4" of chain differential
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P4040476.jpg)
the resemblance to Oz frame is not an accident.
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Great work & progress Joe, blinked and there was a complete frame :-o
You be riding next week?
Cheers
jon
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4 tack welds on tubing joints is not recommended for land speed racing. I need to get my son over to tig it for me. He worked 4 years on a NASCAR team as a fabricator and he is a skilled welder. Plus there are a lot more tubes to be cut and fit . Maybe 2 weeks.
Joe
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Looking good!!!!
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I like it!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Great job.
Ride safe, fast and forever....
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Joe, how have you locked the steering neck locators in position onto the jig, :?,, nice job, doin well, :cheers:,,
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I bought the neck fixture from MechWerks .... the taper cones have a set screw to lock on the shaft. The neck has a lot of work in it ... the ZX9 Kawasaki bearings have fairly large OD and had to machine out a lot steel from a piece of bar stock .... The rest of the jig I built. Nice working on a steel table. Leveled the table, then leveled the channel stock rails and tacked them to the table. Same with the neck fixture. Got it plumb and then tacked it into place.
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Wow, that looks great Joe!
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Thanks Joe,, i have built a number of dragbike frames, my steel table jig utilizes a neck holder similar to yours, the difference being that it has a 3/4" piece of Booker Bar (threaded rod), with the neck and locaters in place its just a matter of screwing the nuts in against the locators,,
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joe,
that looks nice.
do you think it'll be ready for july at limestone?
bill
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Bill - that is the plan ... I was going to try for Ohio but decided that it wasnt feasible and slowed the project down. Makes it fun instead of work.
Joe
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I am quietly watching your build, especially the jig and head post. I plan to make one for my first bike build too.
Thanks for educating me. Your pictures are clear and show the details I need to learn. My appreciation. :cheers:
Bill
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The frame was originally designed by Oz ... I know a good design when I see it ... He was gracious and even sent me some double secret photos of details. I suggest you check his threads "My CBR1000 AF" and "My CBR1000 AF - again". The jig and post stuff is basic chopper stuff. Simple design and very effective. It is downsized car chassis jig similar to what Nascar teams use. I have larger jig of similar design under the Model A. I found that dial levels are a little easier to use than bar levels. A string line is needed to center the rear axle on the steering neck.
Joe
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Cut a lot of the diagonal braces and tacked them on ... Need my son to come over and tig the tubes together. I can't go much further until it welded strong.
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Joe, it's coming along great!
It's pretty cool that Oz shared his design with you! :cheers:
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I was very flatterd that it was liked enough to be imitated and the fact I was asked! the least I could do was to try and help if I could,
I reckon its coming together excellently.
Cheers Oz
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I was very flatterd that it was liked enough to be imitated and the fact I was asked! the least I could do was to try and help if I could,
I reckon its coming together excellently.
Cheers Oz
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Oz,
I know the goods when I see it. Asking is just the right thing to do.
Joe
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Very impressive Joe. Do you have a tubing bender and if so, any chance of showing some info about it? Can I ask about material size and specs for the frame?
Frank
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I worked off a 72" wheel base as it worked well on the chapman frame. Rail material is 1" x .090 DOM tubing. The neck was machined from 1020 CRS round stock. It is set up for stock ZX7 bearings which match the donor bike components. I used a JD Squared 32 tubing bender. Some years back I made an exhaust system for the 55 Chevy and I bent up EMT conduit for patterns. It worked well then so I did that again. The pictures that I got from Oz helped a lot. The differences in Honda and Kawasaki engines created some design challenges but nothing too tough. I cut the tubing and fit it together then tack it in place with a mig. I need to get my son over to tig it. He is a much better welder than I am. Funny, I taught him to weld.
Joe
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I like the EMT idea, was wondering if PVC could work but EMT seems more robust. Thanks for the info.
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(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/IMG00009-20120512-1852.jpg)
Got some frame welding done today ...
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/IMG00005-20120512-1604.jpg)
Son came over and gave me a few hours ...
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My son Joe got the top side welded where it was accessible. I took the mock up engine out so he could get to the inside joints. Tough to get him over as he has 5 children and someone is always playing baseball or hockey.
Need him for another 2 hour session and I can start on the motor mounts.
Joe
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Joe,
Any chance you'll be ready for Loring?
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Just cant tell ... I will have the frame welded and rolling with a stock engine by July. I just dont know if I can get it all done with the damn job getting in the way. I have a bunch of stuff in work and I might run out of time. I am determined to get the 55 Chevy on the road this year. Too many projects too little time
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(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/IMG00011-20120513-1549.jpg)
Got the kid for an hour today and making progress ...
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Coming along nicely Joe... :cheers:
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Larry -
Are you going to Bubs this year ?
Joe
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Larry-
The plan is to race Bubs. I will have the 1000cc Buell drag bike ready. This build could be ready. Plus the nephews are pushing for Bubs.
Joe
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Hey Joe, no Bub's for me this year. Should have 2 bikes for Speedweek this year. My 1350 and another 2000. Was hoping to have the 2000 ready for El M this weekend but no luck...
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(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/IMG_0850.jpg)
Got son and grandson over today. Welding up the frame.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/IMG_0849.jpg)
Going good. Who knows this thing may get finished yet.
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(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/ZX10c.jpg)
My son Joe came over and finished all the frame structure welding yesterday.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/zx10e.jpg)
I put the mock up engine in, assembled the front end and put the wheels on. I have tires on the way and then it will be a roller.
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Looks pretty stout Joe, nice work. Will you use the stock airbox?
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I am planning on using the stock airbox. Not sure on how I will duct the intakes. I probably will fab an air box out of aluminum later on. The stock air box is the highest part of the bike right now.
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Nice looking frame, Joe. It looks wide at the seat area. Try your riding position to make sure you can get your legs tucked in where you want them. Better to find out now than on the track.
Tom
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Those stock air boxes on Japanese bikes are magic. The tuneup depends on them.
I pulled the air cleaner from a Honda 500 Interceptor and lost 27 MPH. It didn't even
want to run with the choke on. There's more to that air box than meets the eye.
FREUD
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The only problem with the stock air box is that it will be the highest point on the bike. I noticed that the mini sprint cars use zx10 engines with different air box with success. This will require some research.
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The only problem with the stock air box is that it will be the highest point on the bike. I noticed that the mini sprint cars use zx10 engines with different air box with success. This will require some research.
something to think about, Joe--
the sprint cars are at full throttle for short bursts on the round the round.
the Zx 10 R will be wot for 1 - 3 miles, or more. that bike could wind up on the long course at Bonneville.
the air box application could make a difference in how it performs.
bf
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I am sure that the inlet length and the plenum volume have a lot of engineering invested in them. I am planning on running the stock box initially. The inlet tubes are going to be a bigger challenge. The reason I want to go a different way then the stock air box is that it will be proud 4 inches over the engine.
Joe
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That's why we experiment and learn. :roll: :cheers:
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Bill - you are correct about sprint cars. Mini-sprint more so as they usually run on really short tracks. They are built for quick acceleration off the turns. Will have to research before I mod the air box.
Joe
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Where are the underhead camshafts and pushrods? Er, never mind. I see you intend to go fast.
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This worked well
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Photo0064-1.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Photo0077.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010139.jpg)
Certainly got positive pressure even with the flexi hose
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Ah --- ZX10 air box ... I just happen to have one or two of those. I like the air inlets a lot engineering there.
Bike is finally coming together.
Joe
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Joe, glad to see you're moving forward again on this one. Keep up the good work. I'm selling a couple of street bikes so I can get my project moving.
Frank
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man o' man JD003 is looking great :cheers:
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Nice work Joe I look forward to seeing the finished product!
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Picked up the engine that I had Steve Knecum build for me yesterday. Steve is the engine guy for a lot of successful land speed projects. He is very busy but does all the assembly himself. I will go strong on the bike right after Christmas.
Joe
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"go strong on the bike right after Christmas"
So, what's Gnu ? Any words or pix to share ?
Get the motor in ?
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The motor mounts are complete. The bike is now a roller. I have a Scotts steering damper but it appears that it will take a bit of engineering (like everything else). I am designing a fuel tank and battery case. I have designed and redesigned the rear foot pegs, shifter and brakes at least 4 times. Still not happy with that setup. I have my nephew's turbo bike on the bench this week. It needs some troubleshooting on the electrics from salt corrosion. I should have that one done by next week end and then back to the ZX10. Plan is to have the bike complete for the June Ohio race. Confidence is high.
Joe
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Is that a pretty picture?
Joe
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Those are nice Joe. Who put them together?
Pete
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They pipe is Brock's Sidewinder ... made for drag racing but with the short megaphone it should be strong up top ... I have to fab a gas tank which has me baffled at the moment.
Joe
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Looks great Joe. What's the problem with the tank?
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Need best possible design for entire system. Has a fuel pump, 2 filters and a pressure regulator in a fairly small space. Plus need to carry at least 2 gallons of alcohol. Will do my usual cardboard mock up and then cut it out of metal and get my son to weld it up. Just want to plan it well and get it right first time. I was able to do that with the last bike. Took a bit of engineering.
Joe
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Worked on the nephews turbo bike today and found the electrical problem. Bad cam position sensor. Took one out of parts engine and got spark. So now it is just button it up and get to the ZX10 project.
I made my first mockup fuel tank.
Joe
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looking good!!
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Oz -
I am considering a TLR tail and seat ... I really like that design ... You just can't keep me away from your builds.
Joe
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I got the TL1000R sub frame and tail piece mounted. I researched all the rules and I am in compliance with ECTA / LTA . To comply with AMA I will have to shave 1" off the top of the tail piece. Can only be 5" higher then seat. I hate to cut up one of Kent's AirTech seats. I have to think this one over.
Joe
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If you can't drop the tail lower I have an idea on how to cut the part with minimal impact. Mike.
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Cant drop the tail any lower. The entire wheel must be visible from the side. It is as low as the rules allow.
I can trim a bit off the top and flatten it down a bit. I have to plan it as I don't want to lose the shape.
Joe
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More set cushion.......nice and soft......
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Once I get the foot pegs located I may have to sit further forward but not a real worry as there isn't any aero in the design. Tough to reach the clip ons when fully stretched out. At Bonneville there is no need to maneuver so the long stretch is okay ... On the paved courses you have to steer and that is when the adventure begins. I was thinking of making 2 tail pieces to accommodate different courses.
Joe
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Joe, I agree with racer. Add another inch or whatever you need to the back of the seat pad. The last time I was at Bubs I say many seats that did not meet the 5" rule. But, if you're like me you would get popped for it. :roll:
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Working on a solution that wont involve cutting the fiberglass ... just too nice to chop up.
Joe
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The sub frame from the TLR is really nice. Aluminum, weighs next to nothing. I have to fab an under tray for the electrics. Factory tray is ugly.
Joe
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Got the gas tank roughed in. Holds 2.3 gallons.
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Holds 2.3 gallons.
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I started making a plug for a replacement solo seat hump. I have a factory tail piece and decided to fab the hump to fit Bub's rules. This is going to take some work. It can't be more then 5" higher then the seat and longer then the rear edge of the tire. I just can't bring myself to cut the Air Tech tail piece.
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I just can't bring myself to cut the Air Tech tail piece.
Too bad we're clear across the country from each other, I could cut it. :evil:
Don :-D
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Here's a sketch I did. Cut out the areas between the red lines, pull the top down and secure with Clecos. Make sure you rough up the inside to get a mechanical bond when you add new fiberglass.
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T-
I didn't consider cutting it the way you show. The white tail is legal for most venues just not Bub's. I will shape the foam and make a shape I like then consider best way to go.
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Cool.
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Joe, what makes it illegal for Bub's?
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Fred, too tall for the seat I think....bub has a 5 inch rule if I remember correctly
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Tail cannot be more then 5" higher then the seat ... I have it shaped nicely at 5-1/4" height right now with the bike level and even with the rear edge of the tire. Need to either lower another 1/4" or raise the seat ... It might be easier to raise the seat at this point.
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The plastic seat pan from the TL1000R was ugly. I needed more tire clearance so I made an aluminum replacement. I am still reworking the tail piece to meet the AMA rules ... I have a plug shaped to 5" so I am close. Just don't like the shape.
Joe
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Joe, I go away for a couple of days andd the chat line goes to hell
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That was discussed on the chat line ... its needs the moderator ... I mentioned that you went to Gas Up ...
Joe
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Joe,
Don't forget to shield the front of the tire as well, or add an inner fender. We regularly scrape a couple of pounds of salt off the inner fender.
Tom
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Joe, the bike is coming along nicely!
Could you take the 1/4 off the bottom of the tail, and mount it 1/4' lower, sot that didn't lose the 'look' you like?
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That was discussed on the chat line ... its needs the moderator ... I mentioned that you went to Gas Up ...
Joe
I stepped away to put the kid to bed and when I came back you had all left!
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Everyone left in a period of about 1 minute. When there was only you and I and you had stepped away I decided it was time to get back to work. :-D
Pete
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I have the seat hump shaped down to the legal height of 5" above the seat ... surface needs a little more work but it is nicely shaped.
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Looks good Joe! Should be careful spreading pictures around like that. You'll have customers lining up at the door. The problem is they'll be fellow racers working on the usual budget! :-D :-D :evil:
Pete
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Steering stop done
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patent pending
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I fab'd the steering damper today also. The front end is from a '94 ZX7 and Scotts doesn't make the adapter for it. A friend made me a mount for the damper body out of stainless steel. He left a small shoulder on the factory stem nut to center it. Welded the two together for attachment. The stem rod was a little easier to fab. I took a piece for a later Kawi and used coupling nuts that are 1" long. Drilled a hole into the frame and welded them on. Looks like a factory piece.
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Photo of the nut and mounts
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Joe, I really like the damper installation. :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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I really wanted to use a Scotts Damper ... nothing wrong with the other type but the damn rod has to have an obstructed path and that usually means it is hanging off the side. On the Buell engine bike I used 2 short Hayabusa dampers and minimized the stroke but this is "more better".
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Looks good Joe! Should be careful spreading pictures around like that. You'll have customers lining up at the door. The problem is they'll be fellow racers working on the usual budget! :-D :-D :evil:
Pete
Just what I need. Plus that would mean I have to suffer the rant of Kent.
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Damper and mount looks great!
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Back at the ZX10R project. Got some work done tonight on the rear sets, rear master cylinder and shifter. I am going at this project hard for the next 2 months. Anticipate completion of all fabrication before the end of the year. Than I have another bike to build for my nephew.
Joe
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Good to see you back at it :cheers:
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that damper works great mounted to bottom of steering stem as well, out of sight line ...
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Never thought of that Joe ... I like the idea of out of sight line ...
Joe
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Looking forward to more updates Joe...
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I spent most of the day searching for the parts I promised Jesse off the red XB altered bike. Good news is that I located just about everything I thought I still had. I am assembling the ZX10 now. I have to do something with the radiator. Stock radiator is huge. I was considering using a smaller one off a Suzuki 250 .... Not sure just how much cooling I will need on an open bike.
Joe
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I spent most of the day searching for the parts I promised Jesse off the red XB altered bike. Good news is that I located just about everything I thought I still had. I am assembling the ZX10 now. I have to do something with the radiator. Stock radiator is huge. I was considering using a smaller one off a Suzuki 250 .... Not sure just how much cooling I will need on an open bike.
Joe
Sure..its my fault he didn't work on it :-D Oh, and thanks again!
On cooling: check out YZ250 radiators, I think 05 up. They are two, narrow units. It would be easy to incorporate them into your bike. Granted I don't know the cooling capacity, but even with as hot as I get the dirt bike on spray, the water temp still stays low.
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A friend has one ... think YZ250 ... He offered it and it cant be big. The ZX10 radiator is wide and tall. I considered shortening it will be still big. I like the small radiator that Joe has on the Suzuki. Not sure where it came from.
Joe
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I can send down these YZ250 radiators if you want them.
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Thanks Jesse. I will text you if I need it. I worked out the controls tonight. Have to locate the fuel pump and the filters tomorrow. I don't like the battery location that I did. Just don't like anything around the chain. I think I will relocate it under the tail piece if I can find room there.
Joe
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I would think a small radiator would work fine for paved tracks. Longer runs would take some more thought though.
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I looked at the YZ radiators this morning. The right side radiator I think would work well with minimal work...I think. All though, to mount it the way I envision the radiator cap would be on the side....hmm
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Finished the rear brake setup. I used a Sportster rear master cylinder. They seem to work well for me and are easy to mount with an integral reservoir. Kawasaki ZX7 rear caliper.
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Also have the shifter completed.
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The radiator is a trial fit. Stock it too high and too big. I will need to find a solution.
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What does the small hose from the radiator go to?
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The small hose goes to an oil cooler.
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it is looking good, Joe.
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Years ago I build a pull tractor with a liquid cooled snowmobile engine. I used a radiator off a CX500..I think. That radiator would fit up in the frame, then just a matter of running lines to a cooler for the oil, if needed. Perhaps a small oil cooler like the XB's use would suffice on that end. Let me do some digging to see if I can figure out what I used.
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The oil filter base is a heat exchanger using engine coolant from a water pump bypass. The hose runs from the water pump to the oil filter base and then to the radiator. I have a radiator from a CBR250. It is tiny and the hose connections are small. Best option might be to cut down the stock radiator.
Joe
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It rolls ... next is getting it running
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What a great looking bike Joe. It scares the heck out of me just standing still. Well done!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Looks great!
Making it a roller is a big milestone. Congrats!
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that is very nice. a metric engine in a custom rigid frame.
sitting next to a 69 charger ?
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The Charge Dodger is Steve Von Blarcom's. Real deal 440 Six Pack. I brought the bike to Steve's annual Land Speed open house at his shop.
Joe
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Looks good.
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Great progress Joe!
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(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/20150505_172233_zps04cdb9cm.jpg) (http://s221.photobucket.com/user/55chevr/media/20150505_172233_zps04cdb9cm.jpg.html)
It starts and runs. Sounds strong. Now for a dyno tune.
Joe
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I want to make Deans list with this in July.
Joe
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Oh yea ccool
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This was a long build for me. Started in 2012. I had a number of interruptions and distractions, mostly earning a living. The chassis was designed by Oz. He built the original frame in 2007. ( http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,2972.0.html ) I followed his build. His design and engineering is superb. With his permission I built this one "under license". He is quite a gentlemen and sent me photos of details and advice on adapting the design to ZX10 platform. I couldn't have built it without his assistance. Another example of the Land Speed brotherhood.
Joe
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Bike looks good 8-)
Might want to wear an extra sock on your right foot.... :cheers:
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Looks great Joe, nice work :cheers: Do you have pics form the front?
Is the engine internally stock? Good luck on the dyno.
best,
Dean
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This was a long build for me. Started in 2012. I had a number of interruptions and distractions, mostly earning a living. The chassis was designed by Oz. He built the original frame in 2007. ( http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,2972.0.html ) I followed his build. His design and engineering is superb. With his permission I built this one "under license". He is quite a gentlemen and sent me photos of details and advice on adapting the design to ZX10 platform. I couldn't have built it without his assistance. Another example of the Land Speed brotherhood.
Joe
Your too kind it's your hard work that built it imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.and you have done a great job there.
The CBR is up for sale if you need a spare bike.
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Looks great Joe, nice work :cheers: Do you have pics form the front?
Is the engine internally stock? Good luck on the dyno.
best,
Dean
Dean,
The engine was done by Steve Knecum. Methanol fuel system was done by Don Guhl.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/20150505_172554_zpsxo4qxfhb.jpg) (http://s221.photobucket.com/user/55chevr/media/20150505_172554_zpsxo4qxfhb.jpg.html)
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Nice looking bike Joe.
Wish you all the best. :cheers:
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As others have said....looks GREAT Joe.
Look forward to seeing that bad boy make some runs at Loring.
See you in July.
Gregg
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wow !! That is slick.
what is the CR on that methanol fueled engine ?
Franey
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wow !! That is slick.
what is the CR on that methanol fueled engine ?
Franey
Bill ... 13 to 1
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Joe, what bodywork or will you run naked?
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Bodywork is a future consideration. Planning on running un-faired this year.
Joe
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that should be running well and very fast.
Bf262
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Hey Joe
Which meetings will you be doing?
I have built a similar chassis for a Busa, less rake and is VERY stable.
I ran 205 at Gairdner this year and I recon the 1000 should be as fast and stable.
I would like to see it in the flesh.
I'll be at BMST and WoS
cheers Bones
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Still undecided about BMST ...
Joe
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Ran the bike in LTA July race. First pass went easy thru gears shut off before the mile and coasted thru at 140. Handling excellent but rear brake was not very effective. Reworked it some and made a second pass. A little stronger thru the gears and shut off at the mile for a 160 pass. Rear brake no better. Decided to err on the side of caution and re-engineer the brakes before running again. The seat was too far aft and I decided to move it forward 5". New rear caliper, brake line and pads seems to have solved the problem. I also changed the front master cylinder for a Brembo off an F1 Yamaha. It has a stronger return spring which gives it less drag rolling resistance.
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It looks really good Joe and it sounds like it performs as good as it looks. Well done. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Joe.......Great looking bike...I really like the chassis/frame...............outstanding workmanship.......
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Just to give everyone an update on this. Joe ran the bike last Sept to 187. However, the rigid design and 200+ hp was found to be unrideable. It kept unloading the rear tire.
A swing arm was added over the winter and I rode the bike at the Maine event last week. I took it very easy and ran a 145 first pass. A bit more throttle gave me a 181 on the second pass. The bike had much more in it and on the third pass I encountered some motor issues and ended the event for this bike.
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Update on the 9516 bike. Loring last week Nephew Cliff Daly rode to 175 with a stock ZX10r engine. He is planning on spraying in the near future. The addition of a rear swingarm has made a huge difference in handling.
Joe
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Tell us dummies how that translates ? gas/fuel? displacement?
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AG1000 ? stock 2006 Kawasaki ZX10R engine. The original frame was rigid but the surface was too rough and the tire would unload on the slightest bump. Has a Soft Tail Harley shock with a Buell swingarm. Now actually quite stable. The engine is tired and a stronger engine is in work using a Bob Carpenter head. The original design was done by "Oz" from England. His design used a Honda 1000 engine. He shared his notes, construction photos and design measurements which made the fabrication fairly easy.
Joe