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*This might take a few days, but I'll try to recap progress over the past few years, up until where I'm at now*
PICTURES: http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast)
I’ve been hesitant to make a build thread, but I figure it’s somewhat relevant. haha. I only found this forum earlier this year. Mainly I’m hoping it’ll help me get some ideas/help as things progress. And, maybe some would find this somewhat interesting. I’m just a guy with more time than money that wants to go fast.
1976 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham - AA/BFCC
*Note: from what I’ve been able to find, this is the longest non-“limo” post WW2 Cadillac made. It was the last year of the big land yachts with big engines (500cid v8 stock) before the EPA down-sizing in 77’. I measured it 19’8” long with a 133” wheelbase. The last time I weighed it before disassembly, it was 5860lbs. The car had almost every option available from the factory (electric windows/seats, AC, couches for seats, etc.) so it’s quite a beast.
Quick history rundown-
Grandfather bought it in 1978. Before that it was a chief of police car for some city in Michigan, iirc. (I have the original papers for it somewhere). It sat in the garage in Florida until he died in the and gave it to my dad. It was finally brought up from Florida to my parent’s house in 2004, then I ended up taking it as my daily driver while in school. When I acquired it, it had about 60k miles and it appeared to be in great condition. Thanks to Virginia’s abundant use of salt on the roads, that didn’t last long. I still drove the car daily until late 2007 when gas was between $4-$5 a gallon, and I realized I spent was spending upwards of a grand in gas a month. 32 gallon tank and I was averaging about 5-6mpg on a good day. Then it was relegated to weekend warrior. Even then, thanks to a failing transmission, it wasn’t getting much use.
Around 2008 I decided to rebuild it. At first it would be a mild rebuild of the motor (500hp/600ftlbs with rebuild) and be a weekend show cruiser. Then I got hooked up with a set of heavily ported heads (porter’s mistake when all I wanted was a mild cleanup) …then decided I wanted turbos…new pistons, roller cams, a few intake changes, etc. Slowly but surely it went way overboard and I had to admit it would inevitable be a “track only” car. Needless to say my parents (still technically “theirs” since I never switched over the title) were none too pleased.
The car circa 2004/5. Before the salt got to it.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/PreDisassembly/i-WpXkr8f/0/L/Caddy3-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/PreDisassembly/IMG3985/902026833_PAwfU-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/PreDisassembly/IMG4006/902026873_cZrhr-L.jpg)
Then in 2006 the vinyl top had to go. It was cracking and I didn’t want the metal underneath to rust. This started the downward spiral of madness :)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/FirstHeaderBuild/i-3zQC8T6/0/M/IMG5568-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/FirstHeaderBuild/i-FB2DscQ/0/M/IMG5570-M.jpg)
The reason I ended up blowing the transmission. It got a laugh. Apparently a loose column shifter linkage promotes going from second to neutral with angry noises resulting. I have a video of the run somewhere on youtube that i'll have to find
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/PreDisassembly/IMG3614/902026814_xNRzH-M.jpg)
Which brings us to the actual build. First and foremost, as a lot of you have experienced, no parts are available other than junky oem replacements, and the relevant information about making a nearly 6000lb car handle is little to nill. Luckily at least, over the past few years there has been an increase in aftermarket support for the motor, so I was able to make sure I built that right. However, the rest was left up to me to figure out on my own.
DISCLAIMER: Pretty much everything you see, I’m learning and coming up with as I go. If it looks like junk (aka my fuel tank as you’ll later see), I mainly build them as a “version #1” to at least get this on the road and see what the car actually needs, or what works best.
Also, I’m making this thread as I look through the pictures I took in chronological order. I feel it helps you see how the process works, how much I jump around, and that something as simple as welding a tab on can take me months, since I will get angry and not want to mess with it until I forget why I was mad in the first place.
When you look at the photo albums, older pictures are at the back, and newest are at the front. Essentially work backwards.
General motor build specs:
-Original 1976 block bored .050” over (512”cid) 4.350” bore x 4.304” stroke
-oem nodular iron crank (from a 1970 Eldorado)
-oem small chamber iron heads (from 70’ Eldorado) ported way too much with oversized valves
-Hyd roller cam, roller rockers
-one-off main cap girdle with steel center mains.
-one-off Diamond pistons giving roughly 8.5:1 compression. Coated with ceramic/teflon.
-Block is filled with fancy reinforced grout (embeco 885) to 3.5” from the deck
-Homemade Dry sump oiling system/ belt drive fuel pump
-Homemade reverse flow cooling system
-Fuel injection (160lb x 8 injectors) and spark (ls2 coils) controlled by Megasquirt 3x.
-Way-too-big intake manifold with equally way too big throttle body (105mm)
-Two Precision Turbo pt-76 turbos, dual 60mm tial WG’s and 50mm bov’s.
-A/W intercooler with huge ice tank (22 gallon for now-most likely bigger later) in the trunk
-Running on e85
For LSR I'm planning on running the AA/BFCC class as i figure if i'm trying to go faster than i ever should be allowed, i might as well modify the car to the extreme. Plus I like to punish myself and over complicate anything I do. And the fact I’ve never seen anything like this done before is pretty entertaining in itself (to me, at least).
Hopefully I can sum up the work in a way to see how things evolved/how I jumped around quite a bit.
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NOVEMBER 2008- pulling the motor
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/PreInspection/1101081112/901490510_LdkDh-L-1.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/PreInspection/1101081112a/901490585_EhgUs-L-1.jpg)
You can see the state of the car then. I pulley off the trim, had to pull off the vinyl top, etc. It wasn't horrible, but not as nice as the first pictures
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/PreInspection/1026081236/901490276_Ai4vG-L-1.jpg)
Engine disassembly:
As it first looked
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/EngineDisassembly/DSCF0238/901500886_FYqs4-L-2.jpg)
When I took off the intake, I found the source of engine troubles. You think you have problems with Squirrels? Scrap yard wouldn’t give me much, so I decided to keep her.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/EngineDisassembly/DSCF0282/901961516_YfF9a-L-1.jpg)
One of the weaker links of the engine- the stock rockers.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/EngineDisassembly/DSCF0288/901962735_GEwFs-L-1.jpg)
Relative size comparison of the 4.3” cylinders:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/EngineDisassembly/DSCF0303/901965302_7NpvU-S-1.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/EngineDisassembly/DSCF0304/901965477_Z5Jup-S-1.jpg)
Overall, engine was still in good shape. Bearings looked good, clearances were fine, etc. Just old and tired.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/EngineDisassembly/DSCF0300/901964813_qwjMh-L-1.jpg)
The motor was actually in very good shape. The main caps were incredibly tight, no major bearing damage, and there was still some cross hatching on the cylinders.
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:cheers:
The "out of the ordinary" always piques my interest!! Good Luck with your endevor, and I'll see you on the Salt!
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OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2009
Now, I have to admit, a LOT of the parts I use on this are steals off ebay and friends. Just be warned.
I picked up a used intake that was a first generation of the manifold and was way too big. Note the plenum filled with epoxy. The others I’ve seen in use had had the runners epoxied also. Also i sent it out and had the injector bungs welded in.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/OctDec2009/DSCF1217/901979631_DNC2A-L.jpg)
There was around an inch of that epoxy layed up. Took me nearly a week to get it all out
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/OctDec2009/DSCF1223/901980057_RqjVd-L.jpg)
I found an Adams Pump on ebay. I had no clue what it was at the time as it was just listed as some nascar take-off. I picked it up because it was setup for external plumbing and looked promising. The napa “performance” pump is next to it for comparison.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/OctDec2009/DSCF1463/901981451_zt7fc-L.jpg)
Also found was an old q45 throttle body. Here's an initial picture of how I was thinking of mounting it. I ended up slightly porting the inside and knocked off all the extra brackets on the outside.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/OctDec2009/DSCF1515/901984071_RvYVC-L.jpg)
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JANUARY 2010 (When the real progress began)
Admittedly, I was still trying to figure out the direction I wanted to go with the car, so not much was really accomplished in 2009. 2010 is when I really started making progress.
I ended up taking a slice out of my heads since I broke a piece off of one of the bolt bosses, and being the low compression- big chamber heads, its not even worth repairing.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Jan2010/DSCF1533/901984189_oCgc7-L.jpg)
At the time I was planning on running the stock fuel tank, so I welded on a sump. At least the other car is handy for something (Was filling the tank with exhaust fumes while drilling)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Jan2010/IMG00034-20100124-1128/911508609_Suiey-L.jpg)
Drilled some holes
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Jan2010/DSCF1582/901987961_ouv9V-M.jpg)
Formed and Welded on the sump
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Jan2010/DSCF1581/901987817_LTTh5-M.jpg)
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FEBRUARY 2010
Parts finally started showing up.
An old comp flat tappet on top (I never installed it, but bought it used), and the new roller on bottom
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/DSCF1625/901989044_nUYYd-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/DSCF1629/901989635_vt4UB-M.jpg)
Some Carillo K1 H beams
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/DSCF1636/901990636_VuLU5-M.jpg)
I then drew up a new throttle body plate in autodesk and had a friend cnc it for me at his work
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/2010-02-16-162323/911508246_UbdbQ-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/flange/902026774_yD7rd-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/DSCF1641/901991355_Ckkw5-L.jpg)
I also picked up a used dry sump pump off ebay for pennies
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/IMG00051-20100222-1815/911509266_57mUi-L.jpg)
Around this time I got the new set of heads back. I originally wanted a mild port job, but apparently the guy mistook “street port” for “extreme”. This started the downward spiral of excess.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/DSCF1648/901991794_7SLU5-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/DSCF1659/901993289_KLsPD-L.jpg)
I had a set of diamond pistons made. The only thing “off the shelf” available for the Cadillac is high compression pistons around 10:1. Since I was planning on boost, I needed much less. These are around 8.5:1.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/IMG00053-20100225-1735/911509364_qnxsA-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/IMG00055-20100225-1736/911509546_fG99C-L.jpg)
Another ebay catch (that ends up being a common occurrence). Busted up circle track oil tank. Nothing a hammer and a few hours couldn’t fix. Not bad for 20 bucks
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February-2010/IMG00056-20100225-1737/911509624_bpcVi-L.jpg)
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MARCH 2010
Roller shaft rockers and a torque plate showed up.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/IMG00067-20100308-2003/911510303_yEm22-L.jpg)
Also I found the “better” nodular iron crank from a 1970 eldorado. Shipping this from Seattle to VA was horrible.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/IMG00066-20100308-1958/911510239_7iZWw-L.jpg)
Now, after looking over the engine and thinking about it for a while, I decided I was going to partially fill the block with grout. The measurement from the bottom of the water jacket to the deck was 10.8”. The stroke is only 4.3”. My thinking was why not fill the jackets up to the stroke length, so the sections exposed to combustion are cooled, but the rest is supported? Also, because of the reverse flow cooling I was planning, I needed a way to extract water, and the center freeze plug seemed like the ideal place. I used Embeco (BASF) 885 grout. Apparently it’s the same stuff they use on the space shuttle launch pad? Supposedly its expansion rate is extremely close to that or iron.
So water needed to come out that center freeze plug port you can see
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/IMG00068-20100309-1747/911510379_c5S9T-L.jpg)
This is what I came up with: Copper 90* elbow, 1-1/2” reducer from mcmaster, ebay npt tap, and lots of jb weld connecting the two.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/IMG00063-20100308-1852/911510103_hj2hi-L.jpg
My high tech drawing) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/IMG00062-20100308-1831/911510049_vGLSP-L.jpg)
After pouring the grout this was the result. A nice open return port for water
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1670/901994643_BbgGe-L.jpg)
I even made a drain hole using some vinyl tubing. It actually ended up coming out nice
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1682/901996525_iSg8g-L.jpg)
other fleabay pickups- pulley (from a sbc I think?) and a sweet power steering pump. 1500psi one, as the oem steering pump put that out, I figured it was what I should aim for.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1684/901996818_pGctu-L.jpg)
This is when I first started to tackle the intake elbow. Mind you, I have no fancy tools. I used a jigsaw, and a work bench. Oh, I did draw this out in autodesk first so I had a general idea/ a pattern I could print out and trace on the metal.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/IMG00072-20100314-1702/911510628_tsiQr-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/IMG00073-20100314-1713/911510761_ietzc-M.jpg)
this + a 2x4 with my weight on it = my high tech break
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1706/901997308_2MQSB-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1707/901997496_vPdwE-M.jpg)
The blue marks on the intake are where I wasn’t able to fully reach with my holesaw and drill press. I had to auger it out later with a die grinder
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1712/901998335_EMu6d-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1708/901997662_5tyaJ-M.jpg)
I also tried to make a roof for the elbow using a leftover piece of sheet, but after I finished I decided it needed to be redone
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1721/901999634_SAqw2-M.jpg)
I simply beat it over an air compressor tank
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1719/901999251_8o8Vs-L.jpg)
I had the same friend who did the intake elbow plate cut out some coil brackets I also drew up for ls2 coils. The Chevy ones didn’t work due to my 5” bore spacing.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March-2010/DSCF1714/901998607_bJ6CJ-L.jpg)
**Note- Later in March I took the motor and all the parts to the machine shop in Richmond to get it built. Owner told me no problem to have it done by June….
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APRIL 2010
After struggling for a bit to try and build my own solution, I finally caved and has jones racing in PA make a crank mandrel for me.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/IMG00078-20100412-1735/911511704_Kh29A-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/IMG00079-20100412-1735/911511778_oRCqe-L.jpg)
As it was getting warmer, I decided it was time to start stripping the car
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1762/902002710_hhMJL-L.jpg)
The engine bay fenderwells were huge
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1763/902002861_N4bYQ-L.jpg)
Detroit quality circa 1970’s (this is original)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1753/902001682_9vG3t-L.jpg)
Out came the interior bits
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1796/902007669_62mro-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1798/902007987_reMur-M.jpg)
AC unit came out.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1815/902010758_tNiJB-M.jpg)
Hole it left behind
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1807/902009452_XuGQB-L.jpg)
Front end finally stripped down.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1827/902011291_7y2CE-L.jpg)
The end result of yanking out all the wire under the dash and in the engine bay. There must be 20-30lbs easy.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1837/902013107_2AAMJ-L.jpg)
I also pulled out the seats. As everyone knows, those back seats are like a buried treasure chest. Here’s the booty:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April-2010/DSCF1842/902013894_EnaYv-L.jpg)
An empty pack of cigarettes, 11 cents, marker, pen, old lipstick tube, gum wrapper, dead lizard, and it looks like someone got a meat gift basket without the card.
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June 2010
I ended up driving to Harrisburg, PA to pick up a spare engine block while mine was at the machine shop. I needed to build the motorplates.
Piece of 12” (or was it 14”) x 48 x 3/8” piece of aluminum. No one makes motorplates for this thing, so I have to improvise.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF1942/902024551_eCz4B-L.jpg)
Take the timing cover, center punch all the holes, drill them out
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF1947/902025106_9H8T4-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF1956/902026312_NpEyE-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF1958/902026581_if4k7-L.jpg)
success!
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF1976/904754902_56Ko4-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF1979/904754990_nReuj-M.jpg)
Same thing for the midplate, but using the gutted transmission
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF2128/916851546_GGBvK-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF2130/916852607_kTTVG-L.jpg)
Also around this time I picked up the 105mm TB (someone had used it for mockup)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF2138/916888028_8zTXL-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2010/DSCF2140/916888904_S5z5R-L.jpg)
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WOW!!! (in a good way).
I had to look up the record for AA/BFCC - 249.xxx mph. I hope you can "Get R Done" with your Caddy.
SteveM.
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Did the engine building shop tell you which June?
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July 2010/ August 2010
Now at the beginning of July I got tired of getting the blow-off by the machine shop. A friend of mine who used the same guy told me he saw my engine and parts still in the corner where I left them. I called one last time and asked the owner if he had done anything, he finally said “yeah....I don’t know if I’ll get to it.” That was the last straw, so I went and yanked it out of there. Being tired of machine shops giving me run around answers about “oh, its not a ford/chevy? We can’t work on it,” (all but one told me that) I decided to take it to the Cadillac-only shop I’ve been getting my parts from in Ohio. But before I did I needed to fix a problem.
With the reverse flow cooling, I completely forgot to block off the water returns from the head to the thermostat. Just a small port on the front-inside corners of the block. Easy enough to fill with the grout, but I needed a way to contain it while it hardened. After munching on some jumbo marshmallows I figured out my solution.
Looking down through the thermostat- I need to block this passage:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/DSCF2173/920247432_n6LYi-L.jpg)
Remove half-eaten marshmallow from mouth
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/DSCF2174/920247822_abgR9-L.jpg)
Create dam
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/DSCF2175/920248145_chquJ-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/DSCF2176/920248447_itcgN-M.jpg)
Yup, it worked
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/DSCF2180/920249072_cU8LT-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/DSCF2181/920249358_eR7B6-L.jpg)
After letting it set
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/DSCF2189/920250710_jdJ9m-L.jpg)
Also I welded up breather holes in the valve covers I picked up. Finished on top/original bottom
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/IMG00183-20100709-1552/929011183_Tf693-L.jpg)
Instead I was going to put bungs on the back, since the coil brackets would mount on top
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August-2010/IMG00271-20100803-2050/957714670_8jN4c-L.jpg)
One problem with my motorplate was that the SFI balancer I acquired was back spaced way too much. So I needed to clearance the 3/8” plate down to 1/16” or so, right behind the balancer. I did this entirely with a wood router and a handful of carbide ¾” bits. It was very messy
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/IMG00188-20100710-1537/930013780_rJe4P-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/IMG00199-20100710-1623/930014324_DEhJb-L.jpg)
How the balancer sits
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/IMG00195-20100710-1600/930014068_fkzDK-L.jpg)
and the clearance
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/IMG00191-20100710-1540/930013903_C8x9Q-L.jpg)
The beginning of one of the most difficult parts of this. How to I build a serpentine belt system using parts from completely difference engines. Alternator is from an econovan, tensioner form a late model mustang, ebay dry sump/ power steering/water pump(I found its off a sb2.2 motor).
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July-2010/IMG00202-20100710-2128/930402457_whxgG-L.jpg)
Later in July I took a day trip from south of DC to middle of Ohio (8-10hr each way?) and dropped all my engine stuff off. While there though, I finally got some info from the builder about the hp limit of my main caps before they basically shatter, and he showed me the mockup of a new main girdle they were working on. It didn’t take much, but I decided to get the girdle and new main caps made as I wanted to really push the motor.
Also during this time, I realized I needed to get the car in the garage if I was going to make any significant progress. Having to stop when it was raining or when it got dark put a big damper on the whole project.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August-2010/DSCF2558/971005082_EYMKu-L.jpg)
Once I figured out the weird connectors on the water pump were wiggins style, I welded on a couple -16an outlets
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August-2010/IMG00284-20100805-2005/970241758_taX4i-L.jpg)
Picture of the stock firewall (will be relevant later)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August-2010/IMG00301-20100814-1712/970241803_Rhpi4-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August-2010/IMG00302-20100814-1713/970241832_cJZY7-L.jpg)
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September 2010
After notching the motorplate plate for the dry sump pump, I realized I needed to notch the crossmember.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/2010/DSCF2773/1005130450_e93i3-L-1.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/2010/DSCF2797/1005139051_K8mkB-L-1.jpg)
Because I didn’t want the big behemoth brake booster, and I wanted a little more stopping power, I found a hydroboost from a late model mustang
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/2010/DSCF2818/1013478198_NTLkG-L-1.jpg)
Cut a hole in the floor for it
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/2010/DSCF2826/1013480115_ZbApN-L-1.jpg)
Something around here
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/2010/DSCF2843/1013481983_o8dra-L-1.jpg)
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October 2010
For some reason it took me long enough to notice that the water pump pulley actually lined up fairly well with the crank pulley, IF I did a little modification. I had a friend with a lathe cut down the separator between the 3/6 rib pulley sections to make it another groove. Also I had him get rid of the pointless forward section
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Pulleys/125/1071796116_R3ELE-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Pulleys/243/1071796159_pLc3j-L.jpg)
To space out the belt tensioner, I traced the tensioner on a piece of aluminum plate, drilled out the hole, and welded it to some aluminum pipe to fit
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Pulleys/IMG00394-20101030-1446/1071796486_53GWA-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Pulleys/IMG00402-20101030-1706/1071797138_UN4HX-L.jpg)
I made the oil inlet plate for where the stock oil pump would be. Traced it using a gasket and welded a bung on
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Pulleys/IMG00405-20101031-1439/1071797395_4dSji-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Pulleys/IMG00407-20101031-1543/1071797560_vJXGV-L.jpg)
Also picked up and made a bracket made for a belt drive fuel pump (realized electric pump simply wouldn’t cut it)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Pulleys/IMG00413-20101031-1830/1071797938_cEp2B-L.jpg)
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Interesting choice for CC. At least you wont have to clutter you build worring about all that aero BS. Big hole going in, huge hole going out. No calculations needed.
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Interesting choice for CC. At least you wont have to clutter you build worring about all that aero BS. Big hole going in, huge hole going out. No calculations needed.
Ha! made paperwork today worth while, thanks Dallas!
I like that front plate.
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Dude, your crazy!
I love it! :cheers:
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Interesting choice for CC. At least you wont have to clutter you build worring about all that aero BS. Big hole going in, huge hole going out. No calculations needed.
The top chop/belly pan/front end mods are later after I get everything else sorted out. From what I remember the windshield height now is around 16-18". I think last time we played around with seat positioning, I could chop it down somewhere between 8"-10" and still have a clear view/ room for the helmet and rollcage tubing. That would put total height from ground to roof somewhere a little more than 2' but less than 3'. I'd have to remeasure. Definitely going to the extreme with the chop, though.
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November 2010
Finally got around to finishing the coil brackets. Each was cut in 2 parts (The guy’s cnc mill was too small. But it was free, so I didn’t complain) so I had to weld them together.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG00363-20101015-2054/1069667105_8XzUr-L-1.jpg)
I ordered some press-in nuts from Mcmaster along with some 3/8” spacers to give the coils a little breathing room
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG00378-20101023-2130/1069667321_wLYpf-L-1.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG00365-20101022-1933/1069667147_G7fUw-L-1.jpg)
And we have spark!
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG00367-20101022-2117/1069667229_ZuwQt-L-1.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG00368-20101022-2118/1069667190_DQmhF-L-1.jpg)
Cut out part of the firewall. The big bulge that was there (Room for AC) had to go
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG00376-20101023-2100/1069667280_9fvik-L-1.jpg)
Built a spacer for the dry sump and ordered some pulleys/belt
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0018/1077915403_y3gho-L-1.jpg)
Jumped back on the tensioner spacer and completed that (needed to build the base), I notched the bottom with a hole saw to fit the tube
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0085/1079220644_svsYH-L-1.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0092/1079219729_afrTq-L-1.jpg)
I also was able to make the spacers for the Alternator. The great thing I like, is all of these spacers were at pretty big incriments to get it to align correctly. Dry sump was ½”, fuel pump was 1.5”, and I believe the alternator was 1.5 also?
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0057/1079220072_FVaqU-L-1.jpg)
A couple of plates and some spacers from mcmaster and we were good to go
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0081/1079220484_n9Ecu-L-1.jpg)
Slowly coming together:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0102/1080317836_25Jkw-L-1.jpg)
Somewhere in the serpentine system I would need an idler pulley. This seemed like the best place:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0134/1081818416_J4tev-L-1.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0137/1081817116_MF9V7-L-1.jpg)
The goods finally arrives. PT76’s with .96ar
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0147/1084629633_EcSBP-L-1.jpg)
Dog blenders
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0151/1084630307_ma4iz-L-1.jpg)
The waste gates
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0184/1087864985_4w4Tw-L-1.jpg)
and BOV’s
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0181/1087864657_qw44s-L-1.jpg)
Finally patched up the firewall.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0177/1087127786_WGeSB-L-1.jpg)
Now, one of the ideas I’ve gotten a lot of flack for was something I saw on a few other cars. This picture highlights the stock AC/fresh air inlet. Its not all that big, but seeing that gave me an idea
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August-2010/brace/976593887_KXNVG-L.jpg)
Thinking about attempting 200+, I definitely didnt want an air scoop hanging out creating lots of drag. So the solution is to turn that stock fresh air inlet for the AC into my high-pressure zone air inlet for the turbos.
Like this
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0192/1087865746_7JLG8-L-1.jpg)
And “here-ish” would be the other inlet
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0201/1088364937_7GQTG-L-1.jpg)
As you can tell, I used wiener dogs to measure size. Everything on this car is big
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0197/1087864662_KFVzm-L-1.jpg)
I cut out the stock fresh air channel and taped out where I wanted the new one to go
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0206/1088419606_aXuAy-L-1.jpg)
I took some sheet and welded it to the firewall. Start of the air channels.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2010/IMG0224/1089431300_kLbkm-L-1.jpg)
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A definite aside . . . 20 or so years ago a good friend chopped his 71(?) Coupe deVille a mild 12 inches I was told. It had wild pink and purple scallops over white pearl. (Those that know me wonder why I didn't buy it on the spot.) The coils were properly heated and it sat a lot closer to the ground. The roof was widened to line things up (sorta) and patched to expand it. It had a lexan windshield and a white vinereal roof to cover the damage. And no headliner. I took it to a snooty street rod meeting and parked as close as I could to the most pastel car there. What a hit (not!). My only problem driving it was somehow the battery was shorting out across the top of the door frame and shocking you while you bounced down the street catching your hair in the under-the-top welds. I loved it.
What's this have to do with the build?
It, too, was a Cadillac.
Stan
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I don't know much about such things, but I don't think I have ever seen a Bonneville car with power steering or power brakes. But that isn't a criticism. Just an observation.
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Greatly enjoying your diary, I hope to see this car on the salt someday. :cheers:
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I don't know much about such things, but I don't think I have ever seen a Bonneville car with power steering or power brakes. But that isn't a criticism. Just an observation.
Alas, I started before finding out about this forum. But it would be nothing to disconnect it all. I have to admit its a work in progress.
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December 2010
Finally got around to building the hydroboost support box
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0257/1115727220_KL9t4-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0270/1115728853_izHvM-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0274/1115729639_x8bJ3-L.jpg)
Time to make the charge pipe tubing into the cabin. Mark the hole, cut it out with a jigsaw and die grinder
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0299/1115731943_uzT2V-L.jpg)
Put a pass through v-band on it
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0310/1115733072_2ULtP-L.jpg)
The next big thing. This front crossmember had to go.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0318/1117385328_4GaBS-L.jpg)
One of the things I definitely didn’t like was the lower rod/single control arm type suspension on the front. That needed to go to make way for a lower A arm
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0336/1117386738_owjYt-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0341/1117387449_nuaoj-L.jpg)
Knock everything off and reinforce with some 1/8” plate (frame is already 1/8” thick)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0355/1123949175_7qjdm-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0357/1123949229_EuCYK-L.jpg)
Cut some 2x2x.180 tubing to fit, and we now have a lot more space
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2010/IMG0372/1123964351_TDNM4-L.jpg)
Here is the start of the air boxes for the turbo. Just some 1x1 angle welded up.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0379/1128824090_umMaW-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0389/1129841352_JT4fC-L.jpg)
A piece of .125 aluminum left over from the ice tank build
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0393/1129841547_ukDte-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0396/1129841017_T3ays-L.jpg)
Poor man’s bending brake
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0408/1130726477_nzope-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0410/1130726756_AoT3y-L.jpg)
Then cut out a hole for the air filter tube
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0411/1130726898_vfQ8f-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0415/1130727010_5QsWi-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0416/1130727180_4H8pB-L.jpg)
Since the air filter plate was done, it was time to mount the turbos
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0433/1131435574_46WmW-L.jpg)
I ended up laying the camera and taking a bunch of placement photos for a few hours
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0443/1131476162_RUmH7-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0448/1131586187_Sw6mS-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0451/1131586259_kj6Fj-L.jpg)
I shaped the 3” collector tube to the turbo flange, then make a mounting “bracket”
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0476/1132302026_XEwqG-L.jpg)
It’ll mount to a bracket on the side of the frame
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0479/1132302121_fzf7z-L.jpg)
And more high tech mockup-ery
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0505/1133044292_dhUNN-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0510/1133044717_KebYM-L.jpg)
With the placement in a “good enough” position I bent up the first support tube
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0511/1133044820_PergS-L.jpg)
Then took it off and welded on another
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0513/1133045027_F75G3-L.jpg)
Not too shabby. Hasn’t fallen off yet.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0518/1133055371_MVfz6-L.jpg)
Clearance with the usual 29” tires which are bigger than what will be used
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0521/1133055688_cH8QP-L.jpg)
Next project: Mount the oil tank. The space between the frame and bumper looked like a good spot. And this removable bumper mount looked like a good place to mount the tank
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0552/1137256892_JrVfS-L.jpg)
I removed the bumper mounting bracket and welded on some mounting tabs (1” angle)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0555/1137257059_H5udu-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0556/1137257156_Ki6VN-L.jpg)
The top mounting bracked needed a revision, and I ended up building this 3 sided box that works
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0558/1137257258_LZsvz-L.jpg)
And all back together
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0561/1137257337_76KJh-L.jpg)
Turns out the headlight buckets stick too far back. Oh well, who needs headlights anyway
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0564/1137257557_8oenT-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0565/1137257517_ovCQf-L.jpg)
Driver side airbox. It’s closer in than the passenger due to how the firewall is shaped (it doesn’t extend as far to the side of the car) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0575/1137258178_UgZSS-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0591/1138708765_2fFwV-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0593/1138709109_FULwJ-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0594/1138709119_pNEVw-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0597/1138709435_S2XBu-L.jpg)
Turbos finally mounted!
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0604/1138709728_9KpQH-L.jpg)
How I secured the air filter panels. Just a piece of 1/8” sheet welded to the frame, then a nut tacked to the back of that
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0613/1139080689_U2uYh-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0608/1139080590_AyYGK-L.jpg)
Firewall pass through for the charge tubing
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0619/1139080890_WYyuc-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0631/1139081437_qKyYH-L.jpg)
Initially the downpipe was just going to dump out the side of the front fenders. That’s since been scrapped due to what I read here. It’ll now be routed straight back under the car
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0635/1139081780_TuA3u-L.jpg)
Since there was no flat area in the firewall for the driver charge pipe, I had to make my own
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0651/1144866410_r35cZ-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0661/1144867240_yRvrG-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/ChristmasBreak2010/IMG0666/1144867759_wxkrz-L.jpg)
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Insanely cool 8-) Whoda thunk :roll:
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Well, if it doesn't pan out for you as a race car, could I borrow it for use as a garage? :-D
Seriously, welcome to the forum. The 472 and 500 Caddy engines, I think, have a lot of potential. I actually came within a whisker of attempting to drop a 472 into a right hand drive postal jeep.
Keep us posted. :cheers:
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January 2011
Time to make the intercooler ice tank (more of a chance for me to get better with my tig. I’m sure I’ll replace it eventually. Definitely will be replacing the fuel tank)
I needed to build a little sump for the bilge pump
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2011/IMG0707/1150920530_o32Sx-L.jpg)
it’s a rule 4000gph pump. 2” outlet
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2011/IMG0712/1150920794_6XVYL-L.jpg)
Cut the sides with a jigsaw again, and make some holes for the outlet and return
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2011/IMG0720/1151884854_FkNPo-L.jpg)
Make the top with a little water “diffuser” so it doesn’t shoot to the back of the tank where the pump is
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2011/IMG0727/1155145372_9KVcB-L.jpg)
And a big boat deck plate to drop lots of ice in
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2011/IMG0735/1158586154_7qsUd-L.jpg)
Ordered some upper control arms from UB machine. They seem kind of…small.. (iirc only 1” tubing.)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2011/IMG0742/1158587291_arjcX-L.jpg)
Then I got bored and started working on the headers finally. 2” 308 stainless to a 3” collector
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2011/IMG0778/1171705393_yC2fy-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2011/IMG0786/1171705628_qsVAk-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2011/IMG0789/1171705969_TmG93-L.jpg)
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Thanks guys.
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FEBRUARY 2011
Key part of the reverse flow system. Fittings for the heads with restirctors under the –an adaptors
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Feb2011/IMG0800/1179172394_aihKS-L-1.jpg)
Passenger side header V1. Definitely didn’t like this
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Feb2011/IMG0808/1179172546_NAKPM-L-1.jpg)
That’s better
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Feb2011/IMG0813/1179172383_kYzLn-L-1.jpg)
With fancy V-band to quick engine removal when needed
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Feb2011/IMG0814/1193496054_gheMf-L-1.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Feb2011/IMG0817/1193496149_Yq25T-L-1.jpg)
Around this time I realized I’d need a full containment seat, so my kirkey would be relegated to "passenger seat" / I needed a break from other stuff. Might make it an office chair eventually. I built a mount out of some 2x2 and 2x2 tubing I had left over to mount in the stock seat brackets
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Feb2011/IMG0837/1193503268_e9G9r-L-1.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/Feb2011/IMG0839/1193502305_hCr48-L-1.jpg)
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See, those of you who have never done drugs or drank Mad Dog 20/20 probably can't understand the logic of having a cash toilet like this wonderful car, but having run a Early Old's engine for eight years against new Billet Bullet's I want to marry this guy's daughter!
This is the thread of all threads!
We have met the enemy, and he is us (Walt Kelly's Pogo I think). Bob :cheers: :cheers:
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MARCH 2011
What a pain in the butt it was to fit the 3” tubing into the turbo flange. I left it long to form it with a hammer, then after being welded up I cut it short to fit
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG0843/1206879380_oEEZN-L.jpg)
Then I created the issue of fitting a round tube in a square hole in a very short distance
Trim #1
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG0847/1206879865_ydRCG-L.jpg)
Trim #2
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG0848/1206879946_WsxoP-L.jpg)
Issues are always popping up. Because turbo is much closer on this side, i’ll have to get creative
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG0851/1206880029_wnk4u-L.jpg)
It seems the only way I get things done is to start building, and figure out the solution later, so I started with the primaries and just aimed them towards the turbo flange
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG0871/1215193985_eYQuN-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG0875/1215194534_LWbGY-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG0883/1215220369_Hj94m-L.jpg)
Unfortunately I had to make piecuts. The frame was just too close to the motor
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG0903/1221524736_J5HjL-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG0918/1221524718_u5qZZ-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG1058/1222548423_vdcCw-L.jpg)
Maybe ¼” to the valve covers.. will require some heat shielding
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG1065/1222549615_juG3Q-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG1074/1222551335_YZd4x-L.jpg)
I picked up a distributor from a Vortec engine with the idea of using it with a spacer to act as my cam trigger. Everything was the same, except the shaft was too long. I figure I can make something to clamp on the outside to push it up the 2-3” required
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2011/IMG1089/1230412792_k9XLu-L.jpg)
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I want to marry this guy's daughter!
More Like if any of you have any available daughters... :) I'm only in my late 20's.
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APRIL 2011
Back to finishing the fuel tank
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2011/i-B56j86s/0/L/IMG1220-L.jpg)
Lay it on
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2011/i-xMTJSZ3/0/L/IMG1221-L.jpg)
Mark and drill the bolt holes
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2011/i-nPndcqg/0/L/IMG1222-L.jpg)
Use the gasket as the opening size for the center
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2011/i-x8k8W8V/0/L/IMG1223-L.jpg)
Cut the center to fit
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2011/i-c8Hp9Xr/0/L/IMG1227-L.jpg)
Install a buttload of aluminum rivnuts
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2011/i-8fcd96C/0/L/IMG1230-L.jpg)
Hazaa
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2011/i-XVBNckb/0/L/IMG1231-L.jpg)
Baffles
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2011/i-t9Q9zfz/0/L/IMG1235-L.jpg)
Weld it all together and test for leaks. Good to go for now
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2011/i-M3xgJdv/0/L/IMG1243-L.jpg)
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MAY 2011
Due to clearance issues with the fuel pump, and most likely the oil pan too. the big honkin’ crossmember needs to go
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-573KQtN/0/L/IMG1270-L.jpg)
Nice and meaty
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-TCd77XK/0/L/IMG1284-L.jpg)
Welded on some 3/16” plates
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-GtPGvq8/0/L/IMG1311-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-8p9b3wN/0/M/IMG1319-M.jpg)
I also finished the driver side air filter panel
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-ppnzvzB/0/M/IMG1363-M.jpg)
Well, At the end of may I finally went to pick up my motor from the builder in ohio. 1 day trip, ~400 miles each way. I get there, and sure enough… it’s not done.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-hCcqRXk/0/L/IMAG0164-L.jpg)
Rockers had clearance issues, heads weren’t on, etc. I said I wasn’t leaving until it was done, and sure enough it was thrown together in time.
There was a clearance problem with the shaft rocker base
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-hdxLrS5/0/L/IMAG0167-L.jpg)
Had the guy build the oil pan too due to it needing to be notched for the girdle
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-28KRd3c/0/L/IMAG0171-L.jpg)
Fancy aluminum heads (I was like a kid in a candy store)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-cmxNBMX/0/L/IMAG0174-L.jpg)
I got there around 11am, around 4/5pm we finally got it crated up
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-GvV2sqn/0/L/IMAG0176-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-J8gthm4/0/L/IMG1369-L.jpg)
I called a friend on the way out and he told me I had to make a detour (About an hour out of my way) to get “Fat kid food.” That was a good decision. One of the best pizza’s I’ve ever had
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-Bks5kWV/0/L/IMAG0181-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-QXWxJbz/0/L/IMAG0183-L.jpg)
I rolled back into my driveway just after midnight (I had left at 3am). 882 miles and 21 hours later:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-56rZwRr/0/M/IMAG0186-M.jpg)
The next day:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-vFVfZDF/0/L/IMG1374-L.jpg)
That’s a might fine looking engine
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-9Z3B2B6/0/L/IMG1380-L.jpg)
Finally a good look at the girdle. Lets just hope it works as well as designed.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-7KvRmXL/0/L/IMAG0197-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2011/i-KSGZr73/0/L/IMAG0198-L.jpg)
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JUNE 2011
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-xLQJ2bh/0/L/IMG1421-L.jpg)
spare headgaskets for when I blow the composites
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-p8rk2DF/0/L/IMG1417-L.jpg)
Got the headers welded up
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-PmbtVtg/1/L/IMG1435-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-hwbxFf5/0/L/IMG1437-L.jpg)
Remember the driver side header next to the valve cover? It’s going to need a hammer
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-3m3WK23/0/L/IMG1439-L.jpg)
Space for the spark plug
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-QDqBWpW/0/L/IMG1440-L.jpg)
I told the guy to install bungs for the turbo drains.. I guess he forgot about a starter
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-w32Bx9s/0/L/IMG1481-L.jpg)
Guess I need to fix it
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-BnDNqgm/0/L/IMG1489-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-rQvwR6h/0/L/IMG1495-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-35rc42d/0/L/IMG1502-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-XT9hnPC/0/L/IMG1504-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-gzJJ4X6/0/L/IMG1522-L.jpg)
Back to the crossmember:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-Nd486Z3/0/L/IMG1539-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-M2F2sjc/0/L/IMG1542-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-KnBF5NW/0/L/IMG1544-L.jpg)
Make the section to connect a front and back section
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-HV5nTGG/0/L/IMG1546-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-nRkmWCq/0/L/IMG1548-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-sj4cqJk/0/L/IMG1550-L.jpg)
Engine back in
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-HF9VbFv/0/L/IMG1556-L.jpg)
Crap. A friend That I had weld on the collector angled it wrong. Not good
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-VDPGk2t/0/L/IMG1562-L.jpg)
Oh well, back to the crossmember
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-Lr6pn6D/0/L/IMG1571-L.jpg)
Cut and grind and tack in place
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-g8MDdtV/0/L/IMG1575-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June2011/i-LV6VPBG/0/L/IMG1579-L.jpg)
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I don't know much about such things, but I don't think I have ever seen a Bonneville car with power steering or power brakes. But that isn't a criticism. Just an observation.
Actually I have never seen a comp coup anything like yours. At all. If you say power steering and brakes. So be it. Neat project under any circumstance.
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INFORMATION OVERLOAD! :-o
Dude, you're posting it faster than I can read it! :cheers:
I'd like to thumb ahead to where you're at now, but I'll be patient, chew slowly, and take it all in.
This is going to be great!
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Lol that's all for now. I've been writing it up as i browse through my picture album online. I'll post some more tomorrow.
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I want to marry this guy's daughter!
More Like if any of you have any available daughters... :) I'm only in my late 20's.
There ya go, Bob! Adopt him!
Mike
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JULY 2011
Since the driver side pipes are way too close to the turbo flange, I had to make my own collector. Far from pretty, but it’ll have to do
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-KNgTtS9/0/L/IMG1593-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-mn5LpDv/0/L/IMG1605-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-gwCJN99/0/L/IMG1613-L.jpg)
And the problem with the passenger side collector being too long
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-Qt3kZHh/0/L/IMG1618-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-jTFDGv3/0/L/IMG1622-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-s6xKSfz/0/L/IMG1624-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-Q3zGWCx/0/L/IMG1632-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-3rrjwGD/0/L/IMG1643-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-MGdPbRX/0/L/IMG1647-L.jpg)
Good to go
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-65W9nVm/0/L/IMG1650-L.jpg)
Initial failed idea- fuel line primer to push fuel to the front. Good in theory (jet injection nozzle), not enough oomph to get over rear end hump+ counteract acceleration forces. Put here, just because:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-w3wF9fd/0/L/IMG1664-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-m2nfnb6/0/L/IMG1665-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-6qSB5Nw/0/L/IMG1666-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-XGCG9zn/0/L/IMG1714-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-Zk7bHQ6/0/L/IMG1724-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-bk9dMRn/0/L/IMG1734-L.jpg)
Needed to make a frame for the tanks
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-xQ8GV85/0/L/IMG1663-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-CdFNFwh/0/L/IMG1669-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-kLzfW82/0/L/IMG1672-L.jpg)
Need to cut out the oem fuel tank hump out of the floor. It was getting in the way
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-kPT5W5J/0/L/IMG1773-L.jpg)
Access holes for fuel and water sumps
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-kCZbt6p/0/L/IMG1785-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-Vkn7KGP/0/L/IMG1787-L.jpg)
Well, the filler tube for the fuel tank is too long and wont let the trunk shut. Definitely had to redo that
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-5n8TJLh/0/L/IMG1792-L.jpg)
Grr, friend that finished the welding warped my flanges! I told him not to weld on the outside! Looks like i'll be hitting it with the belt sander later.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-TS4K9wk/0/L/IMG1625-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-fnj5Wtd/0/L/IMG1630-L.jpg)
Frame for “sealed” battery box. The floor will be completely replaced (to be flat) when the rollcage goes in/ the battery box will be attached to the cage.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-ZwFPSTR/0/L/IMG1678-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-Z8wkKJP/0/L/IMG1679-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-f2NJq3C/0/M/IMG1680-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-bkt8Wvj/0/M/IMG1729-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-vtbxRZ5/0/L/IMG1684-L.jpg)
That $100 ebay dry sump pump? Yaa… needed a complete rebuild.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-skntL9h/0/L/IMG1688-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-QqvFfNn/0/L/IMG1697-L.jpg)
Making the intake elbow fit the firewall:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-9X7bc8k/0/L/IMG1735-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-T2GWxkd/0/L/IMG1737-L.jpg)
Cut a new piece of aluminum, this is how I bent it
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-q92mRwP/0/L/IMG1744-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-X7m3pgt/0/L/IMG1747-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-s89LkHQ/0/L/IMG1762-L.jpg)
Now the fun stuff. I built my own lower A-Arm brackets
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-kHnThnD/0/L/IMG1795-L.jpg)
cut and grind, repeat
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-V469HGC/0/L/IMG1797-L.jpg)
use a threaded rod through the oem bushing hole for alignment
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-CR7vmJ4/0/L/IMG1799-L.jpg)
weld it on
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-Z5fjTMb/0/L/IMG1803-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-WrTxcXz/0/L/IMG1805-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-kFWh9HN/0/L/IMG1848-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/17936044_6sz92m#1409794822_kFWh9HN)
View through the new bushing tabs to stock location
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-bLB8FGj/0/L/IMG1867-L.jpg)
Fixing the motor plate
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-fWtpVds/0/L/IMG1810-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-sxZxtsr/0/L/IMG1811-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-7HqL8T3/0/L/IMG1813-L.jpg)
welded on
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-gc3CkHb/0/L/IMG1831-L.jpg)
oem crank seal glued in with right-stuff / smash rivets.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-6NMpHNB/0/L/IMG1834-L.jpg)
Had to clearance two bolts to fit so it wouldn’t rub the balancer. I put them in the drill press and lightly rubbed then with the angle grinder
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-nMPGw92/0/L/IMG1836-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2011/i-XCXPcd3/0/L/IMG1840-L.jpg)
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See, those of you who have never done drugs or drank Mad Dog 20/20 probably can't understand the logic of having a cash toilet like this wonderful car, but having run a Early Old's engine for eight years against new Billet Bullet's I want to marry this guy's daughter!
This is the thread of all threads!
We have met the enemy, and he is us (Walt Kelly's Pogo I think). Bob :cheers: :cheers:
He also said. "We are surrounded by insurmountable opportunities!" :-o
This build just proves that the answer to "Why?" is "Why (the F?) not?" :? :?
Build on stobl - build on!!! :cheers:
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AUGUST 2011
I decided to box in the front control arm mounts with the stock frame.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-JFMgTpb/0/L/IMG1874-L.jpg)
The ever growing “To Do” list
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-R8xvvc8/0/L/IMG1875-L.jpg)
When building the oil pan, the idea was the use no gaskets on the motor (or as little as possible) everything that needs to be sealed was done so with right-stuff.
(I over-estimated how low the oil pan went on the motor plate. Oops. (I fixed this later)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-TRkFmSJ/0/L/IMG1885-L.jpg)
Between the notched pan and girdle
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-5b8tznF/0/L/IMG1887-L.jpg)
View of the oil return plate on the stock oil pump mount. The welded on sheet goes to the sump pickup. I don’t remember what I was going to use that hole for, but decided it wasn’t needed
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-nZBNqh5/0/L/IMG1889-L.jpg)
Installing the headers was a major pain in the butt. I took a belt sander and flattened the flanges some, and then due to the tight bends right out the head, I had to notch a couple bolt holes (not fun on 3/8” 308 plate)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-nmJWwrm/0/L/IMG1890-L.jpg)
This looked like a good location for the oil filter.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-JWDFjNs/0/L/IMG1910-L.jpg)
Off a diesel motor. Apparently pretty good filter with high flow
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-b68w36h/0/L/IMG1911-L.jpg)
Belts came in and I converted the dry sump to HTD belt also
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-3ST4jkV/0/L/IMG1912-L.jpg)
Trying to figure out where to mount the fuel pressure regulator, and this semed like the best spot. When I drew up the intake elbow flange, I left a couple inches on one side thinking I’d probably need it for something later. Turns out I did.
Built a bracket and mounted it to the space on the flange behind it
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-TJdHWTQ/0/L/IMG1927-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-FjNb797/0/L/IMG1917-L.jpg)
Then because I like to have redundant safety catches, I decided I need a direct gauge. Those plugs on the FPR look like a good spot!
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-dCNb9kk/0/L/IMG1918-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-ZgRXVk3/0/L/IMG1920-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-DVbKPKv/0/L/IMG1921-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-s3DrcBQ/0/L/IMG1922-L.jpg)
With a lot of power and heat I definitely needed some coolers and dedicated fans. These apparently review pretty well (with ebay special fans)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-HHqXFhN/0/L/IMG1924-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-GZB2McM/0/L/IMG1925-L.jpg)
Wanting to make the options versitile for adding/removing things later, the coolers needed their own specific mounting location. In comes more 1” angle
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-wCj54HL/0/L/IMG1926-L.jpg)
add a 1x1” tube in the middle
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-Ffd4VNc/0/L/IMG1931-L.jpg)
mount fans and you have a trans and oil cooler
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-QXhm5Ch/0/L/IMG1934-L.jpg)
This looks like a good spot to mount them. I’ll fab up the ducting later
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-wxM4M4q/0/L/IMG1935-L.jpg)
I took some 1/8” strip and bent/drilled/welded it onto the crossmember up front
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-kqpzc8T/0/L/IMG1937-L.jpg)
In the back on my tube crossmember, I ran a 3/8” threaded rod through a ½” tube, cut it in a few pieces and welded some to the crossmember, and some to the coolers. Therefore I can now unbolt the front, swing it down, or completely take out the entire unit. I figured it would be in my best interest to make it removable
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-82TxQzx/0/L/IMG1939-L.jpg)
view underneath
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-C5FBS82/0/L/IMG1960-L.jpg)
Lower radiator support (yes, you're thinking "why a radiator?"- more on that later)
Dumb mistake of the day. Think about what way you’re bending tubing.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-R7VxGfX/0/L/IMG1940-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-FBtv3TR/0/L/IMG1941-L.jpg)
I cut the tube, spliced it together with another tube in the middle and welded it back up. Good as new
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-gh2SL3q/0/L/IMG1947-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-7xFpLgR/0/L/IMG1949-L.jpg)
The radiator is 19x31”. It’s not the width that’s an issue, it’s the height. So it would have to lean back like this:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-SNMmt7w/0/L/IMG1952-L.jpg)
After it dawned upon me that I had previously cut off the oem hood hinge mounts since I wasn't planning on using them anyway, theres no point of having the hood latch. Time to make a new upper support. Some 1”x2” tubing works
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-fgmF5Fh/0/L/IMG1953-L.jpg)
much better
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-MQdJ3sz/0/L/IMG1954-L.jpg)
Also made vertical supports for it that bolted to the stock bumper mounts
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-DnRDZv7/0/L/IMG1974-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-ms6kszk/1/L/IMG1975-L.jpg)
What I did with the bottom of the radiator is cut some 1x2 in half then welded on angle in the middle so it would ride on that lower support bar I made. Seemed simple enough
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-tmqWRdT/0/L/IMG1972-L.jpg)
After the radiator was sitting on the lower bar, I bent up some tubing and made upper mounts
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-D65wg9T/0/L/IMG1980-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-2Bx9P4K/0/L/IMG1978-L.jpg)
The vertical supports made a good spot for the radiator overflow can
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-DrcT3WH/0/L/IMG1982-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-BwcnM9J/0/L/IMG1983-L.jpg)
Time to finally finish the intake elbow: I took some aluminum flashing and used it as my mockup piece
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-NqkFvSs/0/L/IMG1990-L.jpg)
then cut some 1/8” sheet
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-trZJphB/0/L/IMG1991-L.jpg)
Beat it to fit with lots of cutting
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-vfn64tq/0/L/IMG1992-L.jpg)
top and bottom tacked up (notice extra pieces on the tube to the firewall. I cut those out later
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-68M88cf/0/L/IMG1996-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-TT9xTVm/0/L/IMG1998-L.jpg)
all done
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-Dj8CcNk/0/L/IMG2001-L.jpg)
Throttle body finally mounted on the inside
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-v2rSkL9/0/L/IMG2007-L.jpg)
I also welded in a bung (center bottom) for the Intake air temp sensor
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-qQVBGw8/0/L/IMG2013-L.jpg)
Oh, cheap homemade tool trick. Go to lowes in the bandclamp section, they have this tool specifically for tightening band clamps to 5 ft/lbs (aka, torque wrench). It costs $7.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-9SsDs64/0/L/IMG2016-L.jpg)
Cut off the end and weld on a 3/8 – ¼” socket adaptor
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-9GWqckx/0/L/IMG2014-L.jpg)
Cheap torque wrench!
Ok, back to build
Since I wont immediately be running the turbochargers (need to get NA tune down) I hodgepodged some old mac flowpath mufflers I had (used to be on Cadillac) and made temporary bolt on exhausts. Wasn't too concerned with flow with the pie cuts since it's only temporary
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-8zQGMdg/0/L/IMG2019-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-4XqGJ8c/0/L/IMG2018-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-hF3pbhr/0/L/IMG2179-L.jpg)
I ripped out the stock rear end so i could more easily access the body in the rear. The only problem is it was only made for the Cadillac, so there are no parts available. Some GM 10/12bolt monster child. No worries, I’ll figure out how to build stuff for it until i switch it out with something else.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2011/i-bWJ3f9S/0/L/IMG2023-L.jpg)
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Cool project, this is one of the things i love about Bonneville, build what you want. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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This build just proves that the answer to "Why?" is "Why (the F?) not?" :? :?
Build on stobl - build on!!! :cheers:
"Why (the F?) not?" indeed. This is incredibly thinking so far outside the box.
Great build.
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Great photo history of the build. Nice work. Looking forward to seeing it on the salt.
:cheers:
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SEPTEMBER 2011
The guy that was supposed to convert the vortec distributor for me flaked, and I got tired of waiting so I just decided to modify my oem HEI unit. Cut down the weight plate into a point to act as the cam sensor trigger
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-cSxBvD9/0/L/IMG2029-L.jpg)
Crank sensor from a early 2000’s ford escort (I believe). Although I'm starting to get the feeling those sensors are a big POS (more on that later). Might need to look into sourcing better quality ones
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-LQfX7Dg/0/L/IMG2031-L.jpg)
Fits well enough. I’ll have to figure out some sort of cover for it. Looks like a small stainless mixing bowl would work. Also, you see those brake lines? That’s the air vents on the cylinder heads. 3an lines from rear go to the T’s at the front of the heads, then dump after the thermostat. Should help greatly with getting rid of air pockets in the heads.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-W8wgD9g/0/L/IMG2037-L.jpg)
Welded a oil temp sensor on the tank. The more sensors the merrier
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-GqkjfFD/0/L/IMG2040-L.jpg)
Then wrapped it with some pipe heat band
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-4mF4Prf/0/L/IMG2041-L.jpg)
After only a few minutes
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-VNzxgN3/0/L/IMG2043-L.jpg)
Not bad for right next to it
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-fK6nmx2/0/L/IMG2044-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-mVGsrvV/0/L/IMG2045-L.jpg)
Well, after trying to rotate the engine, the engine just wouldn’t go. Something was hitting… Frustrated I had glued the pan on, I knew it had to come off. Yup…. Another issue of one-offs. This can be explained by not using a gasket.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-kTsSgVg/0/L/IMG2054-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-scTdm9V/0/L/IMG2056-L.jpg)
Rod bolts touch. Crap. No big deal, nothing that can't be easily fixed
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-CL2RGGs/0/L/IMG2061-L.jpg)
So I beat it out with a hammer, stripped the paint, gave it a soaking with some prep-n-etch then repainted
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-3xGG9rz/0/L/IMG2134-L.jpg)
With the engine out to fix the oil pan, I took the liberty to start mounting my mess of hoses. The fuel cutoff T is on top and the oil distribution block is next to the midplate. The oil comes from the T on the left (mounted on oil inlet plate), then from there goes to the Tee by the midplate, where the left capped outlet is a -6an to the turbos, and the top goes to the rear of the block (oem pressure sensor location that goes directly to mains). Just to ensure lots of oil gets to the bearings
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-FnRGzvH/0/L/IMG2064-L.jpg)
Another problem surfaced. The Tee that mounts to the oil inlet plate was about ¼” too long and hit the frame. So I’d have to modify the inlet plate…....again.....
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-Fq6Qd3z/0/L/IMG2067-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-xMrwp5D/0/L/IMG2068-L.jpg)
Much better
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-QhN3rBt/0/L/IMG2069-L.jpg)
I jumped around some more and made electrical pass throughs
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-JthDmV3/0/L/IMG2070-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-rqwkf3T/0/L/IMG2079-L.jpg)
Version one of crank trigger bracket
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-32qBJWR/0/L/IMG2072-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-CWPMCnT/0/L/IMG2074-L.jpg)
Version 2 of the tensioner mount. The first one was too far out and simply wouldn’t tighten the belt enough. This moves it closer to the belt line between the alternator and crank
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-WRJSLhP/0/L/IMG2076-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-VHzc37B/0/L/IMG2085-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-SMGQ9jJ/0/L/IMG2088-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-q3SCdRj/0/L/IMG2090-L.jpg)
Crap. I broke the stupid hydroboost mount. Oops. Looks like I'll be buying a new one instead of rebuilding this
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-hM2dRNK/0/L/IMG2093-L.jpg)
I had a friend CNC me some mockup bushing inserts for my new LCA’s (So i dont melt the poly bushings while welding)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-PXfBSC8/0/L/IMG2138-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-wn9H57v/0/L/IMG2136-L.jpg)
Also took the time to make the vacuum port for the FPR. Some ¼” quick fit tubing and fittings. I had to disassembly the FPR/drill/tap it ffrom the stock 1/16”npt to 1/8” npt.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-9jHHwqF/0/L/IMG2149-L.jpg)
The mess of hoses begins. Mind you, I bought all these off ebay. There’s startlite, icore Kevlar, progold fittings, goodwrench 910, 810, lots of nice ptfe, etc. What I would do is measure, buy, hope it fits, if not, I’d see what else it would possibly work for. The measure again, buy more, repeat. Saved me a ton of money. God bless old nascar parts
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-CJxkwqp/0/L/IMG2150-L.jpg)
The mess in the rear
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-sKBKZWC/0/L/IMG2153-L.jpg)
Front driver side is a tight fit, but luckily it worked. In the left picture, the closest to you is cold water feed to head, the one behind is the return to the thermostat section. and the big hose crossing across the bottom/front is -16 feed off water pump.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-pdZgG8L/0/L/IMG2168-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-zx3RQHQ/0/L/IMG2175-L.jpg)
The fuel cutoff/oil T with the engine in place
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-gXHpbqD/0/L/IMG2181-L.jpg)
Direct oil pressure gauge
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-XbtffZB/0/L/IMG2158-L.jpg)
Mechanical Oil pressure and the electric sensor are tapped into a port in the oil galley
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-FpNnSsd/0/L/IMG2161-L.jpg)
Throttle pedal assembly. Some 1" tube, a couple bearings, and some leftover 3/8" rod
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-dhsTs29/0/L/IMG2187-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-D8n3VPm/0/L/IMG2189-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-62KsMhg/0/L/IMG2226-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-t3QDvCc/0/L/IMG2233-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-PHR3FGj/0/L/IMG2234-L.jpg)
Welded a plate to the floor/ bolted the pedal to it/through the floor. Used some heims as support stands for the next linkage up, then to the throttle body.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-DRbwFGc/0/L/IMG2197-L.jpg)
Built the alternator support bracket. Mounts to the cylinder head
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-bBnTdmn/0/L/IMG2192-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-VprkGJ8/0/L/IMG2238-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-7hW73r7/0/L/IMG2239-L.jpg)
Cheap tool alert:
There is a -12an water return in the very front of the motor that I simply couldn’t get to. So I bought a set of harbor freight wrenches, cut them in half and notched the box end
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-VgtkJKx/0/L/IMG2207-L.jpg)
Easy fit AN box wrenches. It solved my problem, and now I have some neat new tools to use
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-WfCdT3h/0/L/IMG2205-L.jpg)
Battery box found a new home
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-RhwdSf5/0/L/IMG2219-L.jpg)
Bolted it through the floor. Still need to weld some 1/8” plates on the underside for the time being
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-6nChVCd/0/L/IMG2215-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-Zh5Vxn7/0/L/IMG2218-L.jpg)
Looks like a good spot for a battery disconnect. There will be a shutoff on the rear of the car, and a lever for me to pull from the driver seat (you never know when you need to cut power)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-DdXq3HQ/0/L/IMG2220-L.jpg)
Now I need an arm to mount some heims to control the shutoff. In comes some scrap 3/8” plate (I never throw out my scraps. They always come in handy)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-hBRnr4R/0/L/IMG2246-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-C2FBmGF/0/L/IMG2247-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-RSQJqxt/0/L/IMG2248-L.jpg)
Just needs a few holes for the heims (and of course to make it visually pleasing eventually)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2011/i-XKZFdr7/0/L/IMG2252-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-BCPrtgL/0/L/IMG2284-L.jpg)
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OCTOBER 2011
I got tired of trying to explain to people what all the hoses for, so I made this chart. This is just the passenger side:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-8WJHWKr/0/L/hose-listings-L.jpg)
Fuel filter mount V1. Yes, it’s what I’m using
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-FKxcBwS/0/L/IMAG0390-L.jpg)
Splitters I built for the cooling system. -16an in from the pump, splits to -12 outs to either side of the heads
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-6rJgbRq/0/L/IMG2263-L.jpg)
-10an fuel return line
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-DrRfsQc/0/L/IMG2273-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-K28MFmv/0/L/IMG2278-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-SKWrhbN/0/L/IMAG0392-L.jpg)
Fuel primer section V1. That primer thing I made mounted here. 16an off of tank, and the 10 feeds the primer pump.. that fabricated section isn’t going to be used, and ill use a 8an off the walbro and feed a swirl pot in the front.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-bn4pvL2/0/L/IMAG0394-L.jpg)
Installed the fuel strainer and glued on the fill plate
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-FJxFRvZ/0/L/IMAG0403-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-rTN64Xb/0/L/IMAG0404-L.jpg)
I found out they recently installed a couple E85 pumps 5 miles from my house. Good reason to pick up a couple fuel jugs. It smells awesome
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-GsCgGzv/0/L/IMAG0405-L.jpg)
Finally time for wiring! I’m starting with a 12’ harness for megasquirt 3x and cutting it to fit. Simply was easier to do it that way
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-XDHPStZ/0/L/IMAG0401-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-p3gTCDd/0/L/IMAG0402-L.jpg)
Ugh. This will never do. Looks like there will be a version 2 of the crank sensor.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-32fzvqt/0/L/IMG2295-L.jpg)
Starter relay and electric battery disconnect (aka key switch) so I can quickly cut power to everything BUT the computer/datalogger/emergency stuff.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-jwTNWZj/0/L/IMG2291-L.jpg)
Cut it to length then start shoving it in expanding loom with lots of heat shrink
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-zZ5gS6C/0/L/IMAG0417-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-ZcPPn8r/0/L/IMG2297-L.jpg)
The annoying part. Connect it all to some Deutsch-like (Delphi HES specifically) connectors for the firewall passthrough.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-ZcPPn8r/0/L/IMG2297-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-j6FSDHs/0/L/IMG2298-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-3QHQcW9/0/L/IMAG0422-L.jpg)
My chart as I went through it all (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-z6DFFZR/0/L/IMG2300-L.jpg)
Also my temporary wiring section until I build the dashboard. It’s a mess
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-Kn2Gbcz/0/L/IMAG0425-L.jpg)
A cookie sheet makes a good switch panel (I only really needed the left group for now).
Left side group- power switch, starter, ignition coil power, injector power, fuel primer pump
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-pzdmPk7/0/L/IMAG0426-L.jpg)
And my temporary air intake. Haha
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-7SNBr2s/0/L/IMG2312-L.jpg)
At this point I attempted to start the motor. It kinda-sorta ran. LOTS of problems (timing, fuel. Mainly the crank and cam sensors). One big issue was the cam trigger was too “thin” and not giving me a nice signal so I fixed it with some washers to build height to it
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-9CKZvk5/0/L/IMAG0432-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-sk2xVdP/0/L/IMAG0433-L.jpg)
Poor man’s lathe. Drill press and angle grinder. I turned it by hand and held the grinder steady to try and get a concentric arc
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-7dhXvsr/0/L/IMAG0434-L.jpg)
Slowly getting better
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-MwLhBzs/0/L/IMAG0442-L.jpg)
Not too shabby (I need to fill in those holes)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/October2011/i-TqGsWfN/0/L/IMAG0445-L.jpg)
Here's a youtube video of the first "start" the timing is completely jacked up and it was running insanely rich (burning your eyes rich on e85). This was due to a problem with the crank and cam sensors loosing sync with the computer, so it would only run with the timing 4* after TDC. That's why it sounds like an old beat up truck. I need to figure out something better than those ford sensors. After this i decided i need to get it started first with regular gasoline before i start fiddling with e85, so this is the only video at this point.
http://youtu.be/WlBWCWR6qnU
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NOVEMBER 2011
I found a sale on NOS (circa 2004) carrera late model coilover shocks (cheaper than oem replacements). 7” stroke.. Good enough to get me going and allow me to build the mounts I need.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-Rfwmmxd/0/L/IMAG0493-L.jpg)
After scrapping the idea of the rear fuel primer section, I decided to go the route of a swirl pot. Some 6” x .125 wall tubing and hemisphere architectural end caps.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-h4rFtxW/0/L/IMAG0523-L.jpg)
This 8an outlet on the bottom/side is for the pre-start fuel primer. Because I'm using a belt drive fuel pump for EFI, it wont build enough pressure until the engine starts. So to start the car, i have to turn on another electrical pump which will build pressure in the fuel rails until the engine catches. Then i can turn off that pump and let the belt drive take over
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-7p9X5qm/0/L/IMAG0527-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-t87VLwq/0/L/IMAG0528-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-gv9MSTL/0/L/IMAG0529-L.jpg)
IIRC this holds about 1.3 gallons. For those of you who haven't seen one. It works as follows- the electric pump in the rear of the car constantly feeds fuel to the lower 8an on the side of the tank. the 16an on the bottom goes to the belt drive pump. the 8an on the bottom goes to the startup primer. the 10an on the side is the return from the fuel pressure regulator. Doing it this way minimizes fuel lines running the length of the car, and ensures this swirl tank is always full of fuel. the 10an bung on the very top is the return line back to the gas tank in the trunk.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-2L2TgvD/0/L/IMAG0533-L.jpg)
Now I need to mount it. Take some old 4” exhaust tubing, slit it, and bend it around your argon tank
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-BC9DvjD/0/L/IMAG0547-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-3rRhmtw/0/L/IMAG0546-L.jpg)
1x1 tubing with some extra junk on it
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-txcgvGz/0/L/IMAG0549-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-rWPkc7c/0/L/IMAG0553-L.jpg)
Then weld it to this side. (Had to cut off fuel filter, I’ll remount it somewhere near by)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/November2011/i-tqJ6Q4m/0/L/IMAG0556-L.jpg)
The holes i cut out in the 1x1 tubing are slots for 3/4" wide t bolt clamps. I figure 3 should be enough to ensure it doesnt move. Once i get everything else figured out, this tank will get it's own protective "cage" around it, since it's outside of the frame.
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Blake,
I like this build. Lots going on... and off for modifications.
A few thoughts. The air bleeds do not look like they flow upstream. An air bleed will not work if there is any downward flow. The right angle at the "T" at the front of the heads is down from the back of the heads as is the flow to the central "T" and perhaps the flow to the air purge point - radiator or puke can? The ignition trigger needs to be a sharp cutoff like the crank trigger wheel teeth, only less thick. As deep and there is a gap spec like spark plugs. The ECU needs to see a distinct on and off from the sensor, not a gradual increase and decrease like your smooth radius trigger. The positive side harness is done so now build a ground harness and make the wire from the starter-block point to the battery as big as your positive cables. Ground all the components that do not have a ground - ECU fuel ignition computer, headers if sensors do not have grounds, instruments, switch panel...
OK, I ready for the next post. Pant, pant sure kept me busy today! Thanks! :cheers:
Geo
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Holy shit!..just when I thought things were getting a little boring here.
Blake , finding this site must have been a buzz, because at some point you probably started to think everyone who thought you were mad, was right. Then you found this place where people don't just tolerate you, they cheer you on.
Go for it brother, we're all loving this. :cheers:
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This is insanely awesome!
It also made me late for a meeting on Friday and supper tonight! Whoops :cheers:
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Lotsa whittlin, grindin, bangin & weldin goin on here, puts a smile on my dial. :-D :-D
There are lakesters & liners shorter than this one. :cheers:
It's gotta be tough to fit a race seat in there! :roll:
Welcome to the land of the crazy's, you fit right in.
Sid.
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speaking of liners and lakesters---this thing is almost qualifying for "special Construction"
when Andy gets back to the pickup AA/BMP build we will be spending hours on here studying this build-- what little bit we did we uncovered a lot of the same clearances issues
creative and original :cheers: :cheers:
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Wow is right. Way to go. I love "enginuity" and you sure have some going on there. Thanks for the build diary. Now I know why I build bikes and not cars.
Keep on posting.
Don
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Thanks for sharing. We know all this posting takes time. We do appreciate it! :-)
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Love the build and thanks for sharing! I have always beena big fan of the big cubic inch caddy motors. Keep up the good work cant wait to see more!
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Great job so far. Where are you in Va.? Keep it up!
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An air bleed will not work if there is any downward flow.
As far as I’ve talked it over, it should work for its intended purpose of simply allowing a continues path for steam to exit the heads. The basic idea is that the two corners of each head provide the “high point” for steam to escape into. Once steam is in the brake line (3an size) it should be able to be forced in a slightly lower point of exit by means of a pressure differential/ air being compressible vs incompressible water pushing it. The outlet of that vent line is right above the thermostat which “should” provide a lower pressure than the heads. Essentially the same idea as to how you can bleed brakes when the outlet at the caliper is much lower than the master cylinder. (true, water isn’t as viscous as brake fluid, same basic principle applies). Of course there are lots of other factors, but I’ll have to wait until I get it on the road to test to see if it works as planned.
As for the ignition problems, I changed the ECU settings from full sequential to a batch fire to actually get it running, so that it only relied on the crank trigger. That was giving me a lot of false readings, even though the oscilloscope showed a nice clean signal. I messed with the sensor spacing between .010” up to .060” and it kept kicking out lost sync errors. Talking it over with a friend, I believe the problem was more along the lines of the fueling, in that because I’m using 160lb injectors (8 of them), and at this point have very little experience with e85, I was getting small backfires which would cause noise in the electrical system, causing the ecu to lose it’s place and have to start over. I decided that until I can get the fuel in the ballpark, I’m going to throw regular 93 gasoline in there, since I at least have a lot more experience with getting those tunes down. I have a feeling if I can get rid of the random small backfires with a decent tune the ecu problems will disappear.
I’ve since pulled all the wiring out so I can finish up the firewall and make the dashboard, so trying to start it up again will have to wait a while. No use in adding extra wear to the engine before the car even moves.
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Just a quick update since we’re pretty much caught up where I’m at now (December 2011)
I’ve since built the welding jig to make the new lower control arms (A-arm style).
I measured the space between the mounts on the frame and both came up at 10.125” ID So I took the rod, spaced out the bushings and made this
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-R95Zr2x/0/L/IMG2397-L.jpg)
Also, because the oem control arm bolt is 9/16”, and the new bolt holes are 5/8”, I used some aluminum 5/8” fuel line to make bushings to temporarily center the bolt holes
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-zBGPQjK/0/L/IMG2400-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-2fcX8W8/0/L/IMG2401-L.jpg)
Homemade ball joint cup holder:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-5Kp4VgR/0/L/IMG2414-L.jpg)
Weld a washer on the inside
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-Hdgt96b/0/L/IMG2415-L.jpg)
Cup sits right on the edge where the tubing expands
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-xXQx5DT/0/L/IMG2417-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-X7FJnDZ/0/L/IMG2425-L.jpg)
I tacked a piece of angle on the side and marked where the stock shock mounted. Just a reference point for me
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-Wwfhp9r/0/L/IMG2426-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-BGBTGBP/0/L/IMG2428-L.jpg)
Trim the exhaust pipe reducer and bolt on a piece of plate on top to hold it securely
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-WJbXJD9/0/L/IMG2431-L.jpg)
The cup is 1” tall, and the tubing is 1.5” in diameter. I needed to squish it a bit to fit. The tubing is in the bench vice/I was yanking on it with my breaker bar
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-HQBgzFd/0/L/IMG2435-L.jpg)
All with just an angle grinder and flap wheel
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-K8mDcFh/0/L/IMG2436-L.jpg)
Tacked on the cup, and attempting to trim for the bushing
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-CTGgzTj/0/L/IMG2437-L.jpg)
much better
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-KfhP6Jp/0/L/IMG2446-L.jpg)
looks like it works
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-VkR4XDk/0/L/IMG2451-L.jpg)
Difference:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-33pfNHM/0/L/IMG2460-L.jpg)
I finally received the new front coilover mounts. These are from some 4x4 shop that I’ll cut/weld/make fit in the stock spring pockets
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-5VrN54v/0/L/IMG2475-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-mbw85FX/0/L/IMG2477-L.jpg)
The second side of the arm was fitted
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-jkJmcfq/0/L/IMG2478-L.jpg)
I finished welding this side up last night
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-bJ3427C/0/L/IMG2483-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-S5V5QqC/0/L/IMG2480-L.jpg)
HOWEVER, I don’t like it. This will go into the parts of shame pile. Haha. One of the big things I didn’t like is that the shell for the bushing is only 1/8” wall. Last night I found a supplier of bushings with ¼” wall that I would much rather use. I’ll still finish this arm up just to see how it looks and fits, plus it can always come in handy as a spare.
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Thanks for taking the time to take, post, and caption these pics.
"Cash toilet" is a great phrase, but I think this salt boat will be worth a lot more than the sum of its parts.
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When you get a chance have a "blanket" made to surround the heater on your oil tank. Without one you are wasting 90% of the heat generated by the heater. Good Luck
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Great absolutely fascinating project. I love the attitude. But now you've given away all your secrets, and everybody will be building one.
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If everybody wants to build one -- well, I've got the donor car for you. We have "inherited" a 1987 Cadillac Fleetwood. Four door, kinda smashed right side. Runs and drives, too. the owner stored it with us - and has since abandoned it. It's your (here) if you'll pay for the legal fees to get the abandoned title through the system and the courts.
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I must admit when I first saw this build I thought here is another idiot that saw the worlds fastest indian and thinks they are going to build a racer out of some piece of junk they had lying around. I've seen it a bunch, usually get a few pics of the car pre-build and a bunch of ideas and then never here from that person again. You are not that person. Don't get me wrong, your crazy as a loon, but your mad professor crazy. Landracing kind of crazy. I was looking at your build and it reminded me of when I was a youngin and I was hanging out with the Burklands. Gene was talking about cars and said he wanted to build a CC out of a Gremlin. His reasoning was Gremlins were so ugly they are cute, and he was pretty sure he'd be breaking new ground with a 200 MPH Gremlin. Your build is reminding me of that kind of thinking. Huge compliment by the way. :cheers:
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Dallas, I thought the same thing. But then the posts came fast and furious, and by the time I saw he was setting up the front end, I realized Stoble is serious.
Stoble, keep posting, even if the progress is slowing - it will help motivate you on those days when you don't even want to think about the garage, and it also provides incentive for the rest of us.
The Flyin' Fleetwood has fans.
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Yes! The Flying Fleetwood does have fans! I am one!
Please keep posting.
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He may have to pit next to Jeff Brock.
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Blake. You are an inspiration.
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I have had the biggest sh-- eat'n grin on my face reading thru this build , my jaw muscles actually ache ! Reminds me of my first encounter with the "Bonneville bombshell betty Buick" Gotta love it baby ! Cant wait to see the body mods !
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When you get a chance have a "blanket" made to surround the heater on your oil tank. Without one you are wasting 90% of the heat generated by the heater. Good Luck
Thanks for the idea. I completely didn’t think about that. When I was testing the heater, it took a good hour to get the oil up to 170*. Seemed way too long. I'll have to see if i can find some foil faced fiberglass and figure out how to make a jacket for the tank.
Unfortunately I’ve been a bit slacking the past few weeks. The new aluminum mockup bushings for my new LCA bushings still haven’t come in (Ordered mid Dec). And I realized those control arms need to go in first before I can finish a lot of other things (Coilover mounts, sway bar position, steering bars, motor limiters, etc.) I definitely need to call the company up and see what the holdup is - it’s putting a big damper on work I get done.
Besides that, I actually made progress on the brake system (The only “major” thing I worked on) but I’ll post pictures of that after this weekend. With a 4 day weekend coming up for me, I’m sure I’ll be able to make quite a bit of progress.
The plan for this weekend:
Brake system – Master cylinders, run most of the hard lines
Firewall - Finish the air filter inlet channel/ weld up the remaining holes, build dashboard frame
Transmission – Mount, build crossmember, install new dipstick tube (came up with an easy-access idea), run cooler lines
Differential – start work on welding on new control arm brackets
Of course my “to do this weekend” lists are always much longer than I can ever get done. But it’ll give me the ability to jump around when I get stumped.
I'll do another update after the weekend so i don't have a bunch of unfinished projects to show.
-Blake
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Hey Blake, love the build! Nice to see outta the box thinking and some younger blood. Check out your local HVAC supply store or a Grainger for the oil tank wrap. Look at the insulated compressor blankets/ sound insulators, cheap and easy.
Looking forward to seeing this one run.
Later
Dan
:cheers:
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I do the same thing by adding too
much to my to do list but I still get more done than if I make no list or goals. I usually work off a white board so that if friends are helping, they can look at it and get straight to it. Feels like your doing something when you cross stuff off.
Funny thing here is that the list will keep growing, but the tasks will get simpler and more specific.
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Any news on this project lately?
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Oops, forgot to update. Had some family come stay with us for a a couple weeks so it slipped my mind/ forgot to take a few pictures.
Worked on the brakes- went through two versions pretty quick. The first one was way too long and would have required me to sit in the back seat. new version is just right.
Used assembly I had lying around
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-Jm9Tbg5/0/L/IMG2501-L.jpg)
mounted to hydroboost
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-vm7Jm7d/0/L/IMG2516-L.jpg)
was almost 2 feet long
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-P8z9pT2/0/L/IMG2520-L.jpg)
Version 2- reverse mount ontop of the unit
The plan after a saturday morning of searching the internet for ideas
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-Rwpj9p4/0/L/IMAG0742-L.jpg)
Use some spare angle, drill some holes
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-46hZJkX/0/L/IMG2555-L.jpg)
Shock mount as a pivot point
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-2XFj4Gw/0/L/IMG2562-L.jpg)
Drill some holes in a plate and make a new master cylinder mount
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-gsG5sRP/0/L/IMG2569-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-f7nKTnz/0/L/IMG2570-L.jpg)
Make a pivot arm to contain the bias adjuster
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-d6QdcLx/0/L/IMG2605-L.jpg)
View inside the bottom of the arm- i welded some 1/2" tube as heim spacers which will attach to the hydroboost pushrod. i still need to cut the side off the arm for clearance
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-xL62pVq/0/L/IMG2610-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-zpMb59s/0/L/IMG2611-L.jpg)
And after welding it all together:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-63P56bs/0/L/IMG2632-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-xLv3LKL/0/L/IMG2635-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-JK3qgPP/0/L/IMG2633-L.jpg)
Then I built the oil breather catch can. some 4" spare intake tubing with a 2" tube on the inside/ ebay special air filter on top
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-5wZBJHq/0/L/IMG2502-L.jpg)
One side of the inside pipe has a bunch of 1/4" holes drilled in it from the bottom to about 3/4 the way up. The inlet bung is at the top on the opposite side (no-hole side)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-krnGMpC/0/L/IMG2637-L.jpg)
bung and tube welded in place
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-Zmn3Hmz/0/L/IMG2638-L.jpg)
add two stainless steel pot scrubbers
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-v65TC6t/0/L/IMG2640-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-ZH8G8LD/0/L/IMG2642-L.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-wGzCNSH/0/L/IMG2643-L.jpg)
weld on the bottom and make a drain hole
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-KNgvK4N/0/L/IMG2646-L.jpg)
And drain welded on
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-ThQhNgZ/0/L/IMG2671-L.jpg)
I need to figure out a mount for it somewhere near the power steering reservoir (probably need to rotate the oil tank lid too)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-bNhJf4P/0/L/IMG2672-L.jpg)
While I was at it, i tore apart the old torque converter and checked it out/ cleaned off the rust and painted it (probably use it for the ecta mile at first)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-rJnpsZM/0/M/IMG2521-M.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/December2011/i-bKjbsrG/0/L/IMG2534-L.jpg)
Some silver hammered finish rustoleum I had lying around. I like it
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-drqBpz8/0/L/IMG2567-L.jpg)
I built the other side of the front LCA jig. The bushing shell wouldn't pop out of the passenger side, so i improvised. 1.25" tube with a 1" square inside fit a 5/8" bolt perfectly.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-D7KK58K/0/L/IMG2649-L.jpg)
welded a new balljoint cup support. I just need to label the jig so i remember what side is which
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-HVX93h8/0/L/IMG2652-L.jpg)
While I was at it, i took apart the trans since I wanted to mount it. I changed the filter, added a temp sensor to the pan, replaced the oil pump seal/gasket, added pan studs (I need to threadcert a couple of the holes that were stripped), tapped the breather hole for a 1/4" quick connect hose fitting, installed the JW bell, and mounted the trans. Everything looked good.
(sorry for blurry pic) Trans is a rossler 210
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-SpHcmWr/0/L/IMG2655-L.jpg)
Drain bolt is on far side - i drilled a hole here, welded a bung and threw in the sensor
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-Xd9Vvrk/0/L/IMG2666-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-c4QK4vj/0/L/IMG2668-L.jpg)
Then gave it a quick coat of paint and used my poor man's curing room
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-5BBcsQD/0/L/IMG2669-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-7LDQxQG/0/L/IMG2674-L.jpg)
Bell housing mounted up
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-BnBTqFd/0/L/IMG2697-L.jpg)
Oh, sorry another blurry picture. I had a couple of upper control arms made while i was at it. Need to measure and have the bottoms made when I figure out the diff position (heightwise since im going to lower the car quite a bit) Adjustable ends are 1-1/8" thread. Should hold up.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-Nw2BJcw/0/L/IMG2679-L.jpg)
I'll take pictures of the trans mounted- We took a rough measurement and it's pushing 80" from trans end to diff. I'm thinking i'm going to have to run a 2 piece drive shaft. The oem trans is a long tail, this is a short. We'll see when i get the diff mounted.
Umm.... I got half of the firewall sealed up this past weekend, but need to build the driver's side now. I started working on the car after work this past week in an attempt to start getting a bit done each day . I'd REALLY like to get this able to putz around the neighborhood by march so I can start working on the tune a bit (no turbos at first). If i can get off my butt and get the booster welded in, front control arms built, and mount the diff, i can get a few friends to help with all the other bits and pieces (Brakes, wiring, mount the hood) to make it all get together much faster.
-Blake
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Stobl......since I have a little experience feeding a build site I can only say, " H e l l of a site."
You have also mastered the path around the posting conditions of 4 images max and 500kb total.
Marvelously satisfying to see your ingenuity and progress.
FREUD
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We've been using a electronically boosted master cylinder from a 87 Buick GN. It works really great but we do not have the bias adjust that you have.
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This is just a really fun build. :-D :-D :-D
Keep up the GOOD work. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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The Rossler t-400 looks like a trans brake unit. I was not aware a trans brake was used in landspeed racin.
:-D
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Random update time
(JANUARY - FEBRUARY 2012)
Finally got around to installing the bell housing and mounting it on the car. One less thing to trip over.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-BnBTqFd/0/L/IMG2697-L.jpg)
Because i need a primer pump to build pressure in the fuel rails before the belt drive pump kicks in, i welded a bung onto the fuel filter head (sorry, forgot to get a finished one. I'll snap it later). Basically i hit the primer pump to get me the 40psi for the injectors until the engine fires and normal pressure can be maintained with the belt drive
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-jLk4N4z/0/L/IMG2699-L.jpg)
View of the cramped "work space" I really need to replace the bench- it's definitely going to collapse on me one of these days. I really need to clean it up too. lol.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-3MdwLrK/0/L/IMG2700-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-NsVXG4S/0/L/IMG2762-L.jpg)
Well, I FINALLY got around to finishing the firewall (for the most part). only took a year. haha.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-4cXc7QL/0/L/IMG2704-L.jpg)
The explanation- the aluminum panel holds the air filter which is crammed in the space created with the above picture.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-J6Qwxtk/0/L/IMG2711-L.jpg)
In the above picture, you see the air intake holes by the windshield? This is a view down it. Low drag air inlet at high pressure zone.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-2mPfRB6/0/L/IMG2713-L.jpg)
A view inside:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/January2012/i-z5Xr6v8/0/L/IMG2714-L.jpg)
I did the same thing with the driver side:
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-MVtFr5q/0/L/IMG2734-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-5vtxGgX/0/L/IMG2739-L.jpg)
I had to cut this little piece out as it was folding over on itself. I was just using my knee, a beater bag, and a hammer. I just patched it up afterwards.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-3PVwnzm/0/L/IMG2740-L.jpg)
Since I wont be needing a speedometer drive anymore, I made a blockoff plate using the original (going to pick up a GPS unit one of these days)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-3hNhX3t/0/L/IMG2717-L.jpg)
Cut everything off, tap the hole, then lather a bolt with thread locker and sealer and torque it in there. Simple and free
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-Rc6HjS6/0/L/IMG2722-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-XR42pqC/0/L/IMG2723-L.jpg)
Then I hauled in the rear end to get some new brackets welded on, and to give it a once-over
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-MMVkqtt/0/L/IMG2741-L.jpg)
These are the original lower control arms for the diff. They have to go
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-FhdjqW2/0/L/IMG2743-L.jpg)
Then....i proceeded to measure and chop off all the brackets (LCA, Shock, Spring)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-HwXkPPv/0/L/IMG2748-L.jpg)
Whatever welding rod GM used in the 70's is hard as heck. it took forever and a half to grind all of those down
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-h44pzbS/0/L/IMG2756-L.jpg)
All done
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-fqxj9zq/0/L/IMG2767-L.jpg)
Then I took the measurements from the stock LCA mounts and transferred them back on for the new LCA mounts
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-VfbPzLT/0/L/IMG2771-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-sNKRK8W/0/L/IMG2769-L.jpg)
Tacked on
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-2phPVPM/0/L/IMG2773-L.jpg)
Then proceeded to weld an inch, wait a half hour, weld another inch, etc. Took a whole weekend
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-wfB3kG6/0/L/IMG2789-L.jpg)
Because I couldn't weld on the shock mounts yet (havent come in), i took the diff cover off to have a look. For anyone who doesnt know, cadillac in the late 60's-70's had their own specific diff. It's some sort of cross breed between a 10/12/and 14 bolt. For now, I'm just going to give it a once over to check it out, then throw it back in. I just need something to get me moving until i can get back to the rear suspension. I'm mad because i definitely can't use a spool from anything else for the time being.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-ffGN8X9/0/L/IMG2812-L.jpg)
what amazes me, is it's only 26 spline axles. I can't even get a mini-spool for it, unless the 26 spline 10 bolt one will fit. I need to call someone up and see if they'll measure
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-czKz8fV/0/L/IMG2813-L.jpg)
Then i completely yanked it apart, taking measurements of everything single thing i could to hopefully find parts that interchange
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-X8HbHbP/0/L/IMG2841-L.jpg)
After that, i welded the tabs on for the rear sway bar (in case i need/want one later), and also finished the welding on the LCA brackets since the brake backing plates were in the way of the outside braces
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-k9QF5Q5/0/L/IMG2871-L.jpg)
Finally I caved, and after 2 months of getting no where with the lower control arms, I broke down and bought a press and tubing notcher. I should have done that months ago
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-hrkkcFb/0/L/IMAG0787-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-zdWnhDB/0/L/IMAG0807-L.jpg)
First test notch, it fits the ball joint cup perfectly
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/February2012/i-hPFRT6m/0/L/IMAG0809-L.jpg)
With that being said, I was able to crank out the lower control arms this past saturday with no problems at all
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-Kt69W3n/0/L/IMAG0813-L.jpg)
My limited welding ability with the tig
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-bbDpk9f/0/L/IMAG0811-L.jpg)
I also made a cross bar that connected where the shock will mount
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-DZj9BtL/0/L/IMG2902-L.jpg)
I'm kicking myself for not getting a notcher sooner. No way could I have done this with a grinder (all i was using before)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-fvc2mGQ/0/L/IMG2903-L.jpg)
The finished arms. The only "oops" that came out of it, was that welding the cross bar in pulled the bushings in just a bit, so its a tight fit on the body now. but it fits. Just takes some finesse with a hammer.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-g3sHDKn/0/L/IMG2913-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-5pZx4s8/0/L/IMG2914-L.jpg)
And installed on the car (I had to make new inner sleeves since the tubing that came with the poly bushings was for 9/16" bolts, and i'm using 5/8". So I took some 3/4" CM tube and drilled it out to fit (didn't need much)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-7Z7bT4X/0/L/IMG2905-L.jpg)
Now I can finally work on getting the coilovers mounted
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-XMPVx5H/0/L/IMG2919-L.jpg)
After this, since I needed a change of pace, I pulled out the ring gear and pinion, since i also want to change the pinion flange to a normal u-joint pinion (12bolt will fit with slight modification)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-HrPXxP5/0/L/IMG2927-L.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-3nV7qZd/0/L/IMG2954-L.jpg)
As of now (3/5/2012) im waiting on a 3-3/8" holesaw to come in, so i can open up the shock mounts to fit the housing (3-3/8"od tubing), then I will weld those on. Johnny joints should be in this week for the LCA, so I will mount the diff in the car, measure it up, and crank out a set of arms for the bottom. After that, hopefully I can get a new pinion in, which will allow me to finally measure and order a driveshaft. Unfortunately I have a feeling i'm going to need a 2 piece, and the initial eyeball measurements puts it near 80" in length. We'll see.
The other major task is the front coilover mounts because it interferes with upper control arm mount. I have a set of adjustable mounts, but we'll see if i even need those. I'll have to get creative to figure it out.
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HFS. We love this guy!
Nice one Blake, watching with interest here...
You're right about the 70's GM axles...try getting those axles tubes out of a diff housing, them's real real hard...
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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from what I can see, those are pretty nice tig welds.
wouldn't a ford 9 inch work better?
bf
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wouldn't a ford 9 inch work better?
I actually have a 9" laying in the yard from a late 70's pickup that I was going to use, however since the pinion is offset, by the time i cut one housing end off and center it, it would be too narrow for my frame rails (IIRC, around 56", and the housing is 65").
Anyway, this is just a temporary setup. I'm not a fan of the stock 4 link setup (both geometry and mounting), so when the time comes after everything else is in order and the piggy bank refills, I'll completely redo the rear 4 link suspension and dish out for a nice built 9". So far all I have in the rear is the cost of the brackets. Depending how the bearings look, i might just clean them up and throw it back together. Cliffnotes of my reasoning: it's cheap and requires less effort to get it to work :)
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Well I figure its about time I update again since I got a little motivation from last weekends ECTA meet and seeing Sean run his Cadillac.
MARCH 2012
Front LCA’s version 2.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-5pZx4s8/0/M/IMG2914-M.jpg)
Slowly getting better at tig welding. I'm still spotty with aluminum though. I have my good days and bad.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-7CJkWV4/0/M/IMG2912-M.jpg)
Oh, one thing I forgot. LCA tubing is 1.5”, the BJ cup is 1” tall and at an angle. so I squished the very end in the press to get it down to size and then notched it to fit. Worked perfect.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-Fr8hzcP/0/M/IMG2910-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-XMPVx5H/0/M/IMG2919-M.jpg)
Attention back to the rear end. I wanted to toss the stock flange.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-2kV5pVh/0/M/IMG2926-M.jpg)
Since crush sleeves aren’t available, I took a measurement of the one I took out and had a friend machine a solid sleeve out of some tubing, then I used shims from Ratech that were close enough to get proper preload.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-h8dr8d4/0/M/IMG2946-M.jpg)
I picked up a 12 bolt pinion yoke that fit “close enough.” The problem is it wasn’t long enough, so I cut a piece of tubing (leftover rear LCA) and tacked it on. I think it was maybe 3/16” thick, just enough to allow me to bolt it on.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-Cdb4xfT/0/M/IMG3102-M.jpg)
Got the Johnny joints in for the LCA’s. The stock lower control arms are about 3” closer(Spread-wise) on the frame than they are on the rear end (1.5” out each side). The bracket on the frame rails is angled out from the factory, so these will allow that slight mismatch at the rear end. IIRC it was something like 62" on the frame vs 65" on the rear end.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-V7QNgdH/0/M/IMAG0815-M.jpg)
Built the LCA’s, threw some paint on them (note their positioning in these pictures is arbitrary. The johnny joints are because the mounting brackets on the frame are actually 3" smaller than the brackets on the rear end (this was stock positioning). IIRC, frame is 62", rear end is 65" on center. Also note sway bar brackets on that last picture.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-VjC7xjL/0/M/IMG2978-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-4phMXBF/0/M/IMG3025-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-QVHRQdv/0/M/IMG3027-M.jpg)
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MARCH 2012 (2)
Warning, this next part jumps around a bit. I'm just posting the pictures as I jump around and worked on different things.
Coilover mounts for the rear – some cheap jegster brackets that I modified, and I enlarged the 3” size to 3-3/8” to fit my rear end. I just simply doubled up two hole saws and used the 3” as a guide.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-zk9ct3K/0/M/IMG2960-M.jpg)
I found a deal on fleabay for some slightly used superspeedway spindles
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-LM35fj2/0/M/IMG2965-M.jpg)
I also finally started working on the front suspension that I've been putting off
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-sHKzFcz/0/M/IMG2962-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-sxvp7h5/0/M/IMG2981-M.jpg)
This is how I maintained the upper control arm position:
Cut away as much of the stock spring pocket as I could, while leaving the UCA mount holes (6” on center). Make a simple strap with the same hole spread, and tack weld a piece of angle to the frame to maintain position. Note this is an aluminum piece. I had a brain fart before I realized this wouldn’t work, and I make another strap out of steel. So then
put steel strap between angle iron and bolt holes, tack strap to angle, then unbolt all, make sure it didn’t move, then cut out rest of spring pocket. You have a simple position-maintainer.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-tKWR43P/0/M/IMG2983-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-hTzqMW9/0/M/IMG2990-M.jpg)
Then I took some leftover heavy wall 2x3” box tube from the LCA jig and cut it to size, drilled some bolt holes for the 6” spread, tacked/welded it in place. I need to pull the engine to properly brace it. For now its basically just tacked
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-vR5XTr2/0/L/IMG2993-L.jpg)
Remove the angle and strap, and you have a properly position upper control arm mount
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-Zm96dNr/0/M/IMG2995-M.jpg)
I also had to cut out some of the frame in the area to fit the coilover. Before I finish it up i'll probably box it in with some 1/8" sheet.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-tZ3pbWF/0/M/IMG2998-M.jpg)
Back to rear coilover mounts. I took some more crappy jegster brackets and modified them to work. I doubled them up and made an adjustable unit so I can adjust ride height
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-mL8k6NS/0/M/IMG3029-M.jpg)
Then to weld it on the rear end, I cut a bunch of spacers out of ½” tubing, bolted it all together to maintain position, then welded it on
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-VpBnhz4/0/M/IMAG0823-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-xkKnhLb/0/M/IMAG0825-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-MkrjsLm/0/M/IMAG0830-M.jpg)
By sheer luck I caught a hell of a deal on some super speedway spindles that are near identical matches for my OEM ones. Just has greater spindle drop which actually is what I wanted, but they were cheap and will work great
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-ZSWvdvp/0/M/IMAG0831-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-cnH5VHw/0/M/IMG3096-M.jpg)
While going through my stash of parts, I noticed the throttle body seemed to drag a bit. It seems one of the backfires from the engine startup in October bent the throttle shaft
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-fWnrnsD/0/M/IMAG0832-M.jpg)
Now onto the rear upper coilover mounts
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-vm4kdHR/0/M/IMG3055-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-9bVMGcP/0/M/IMG3057-M.jpg)
Cut off stock spring mounts
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-rwZkTtk/0/M/IMG3069-M.jpg)
Heavy wall 2”x2” box tube welded in, upper coilover brackets made, welded on
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-LcqGtXf/0/M/IMG3085-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-5gfFRk8/0/M/IMG3089-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/March2012/i-dgTLNJv/0/M/IMG3091-M.jpg)
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APRIL 2012 (1)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-K7VDhWP/0/M/IMG3120-M.jpg)
Turns out stock control arm angles don’t like monoballs when everything is moved for a lower rideheight. Grr. That will need to be fixed. This is at the ends of travel that aren't quite extreme enough.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-9nnSx4F/0/M/IMG3122-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-CJszwFS/0/M/IMG3125-M.jpg)
But at least I got to play around with visualizing the ground clearance. This is with 3” on a 28” tire
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-jgrLkgB/0/M/IMG3137-M.jpg)
6” clearance (to lowest point on frame (at trans crossmember)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-qccvmBq/0/M/IMG3143-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-WPHmxpk/0/M/IMG3147-M.jpg)
I figure while I’m working on the front end I might as well do the brakes too. More nascar junk For a GT wilwood rotor.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-H5gC3MZ/0/M/IMG3150-M.jpg)
Tirerack was having a closeout on Conti extremes in 18. Good enough reason to get tires for the front. IIRC they're rated to 186 or so.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-VVLkDwr/0/M/IMAG0839-M.jpg)
“Street wheels” until I figure out what sort of wheels I’m going to get. I just needed something cheap for now. These did the job. Don't worry, they'll get painted black.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-cfCV5Pf/0/M/IMG3162-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-WkcqJqd/0/M/IMG3164-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-W2jz9jx/0/M/IMG3190-M.jpg)
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APRIL 2012 (2)
Since the floor is all screwy, I made a simple plate to mount the pedals to
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-vj47Wjm/0/M/IMG3181-M.jpg)
Calipers showed up after a delay. Along with 13” GT rotors (This is mainly for when i give ORR a try)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-P9bPcfM/0/M/IMAG0851-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-TPCjbSJ/0/M/IMAG0856-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-xnkDxC6/0/M/IMAG0855-M.jpg)
Needed to make some sort of crossmember for the rear sway bar (Sorry for blurry picture)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-5KBkgL2/0/M/IMG3212-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-J3PJL38/0/M/IMG3217-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-KBNhB9t/0/M/IMG3222-M.jpg)
Driveshaft showed up. 70-7/8” between the yokes. 5” aluminum due to length. Critical speed is 6400rpm, so there's my max rpm until I can put in a gear vendors unit and get the length down. I'll get a picture of it unboxed at some point.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-H8sxC55/0/M/IMAG0857-M.jpg)
Due to the wheels seemingly only being designed for ½” studs, I had to modify a socket (angle grinder while it was chucked in a drill press) to get it to fit the extremely small clearance. A thinwall socket was slightly too large. Now that I know what works, I’ll get a couple more turned on the lathe.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-8dMmqBQ/0/M/IMAG0864-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-Gmvk77T/0/M/IMAG0866-M.jpg)
Ordered the Intercooler cores. 2x 1000hp Garrett A/W units
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-CnLDCxB/0/M/IMG3220-M.jpg)
Built a steering column for now. Also I mounted the seat (seat now back to being driver's for now)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-qVhsccf/0/M/IMG3226-M.jpg)
Now to make the calipers fit. 3.5” Superlite bracket to a 5.25” (set to an offset for an unknown rotor).
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-GG88p99/0/M/IMAG0880-M.jpg)
Cut a piece of 1/8” aluminum as a bracket to work from and scribe a bunch of reference lines for the caliper, and drill holes for the spindle
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-ChbS576/0/M/IMG3230-M.jpg)
With the brake pads in, I moved/shimmed the caliper around until it looked right on the edge of the rotor. Using the reference lines and a piece of welding rod, I was able to measure how far offset the new caliper bolt holes need to be (IIRC ½”)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-zVVrT9C/0/M/IMG3234-M.jpg)
Then take some 1.5”x1/2” cold rolled stock, transfer dimensions to that and drill
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-GMTzgR8/0/M/IMG3239-M.jpg)
I had to slightly clearance the spindle’s brackets for the caliper to fit
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-qMcDsdL/0/M/IMG3247-M.jpg)
Success! It just looks like it needs to be shimmed maybe .032” or so, so that it’s centered on the rotor
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-QPRvqS8/0/M/IMG3241-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-jr4pwQb/0/M/IMG3244-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/April2012/i-Ct66Ln9/0/M/IMG3249-M.jpg)
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Great documentation.
I know how much work that is and you had to build it before you could foto it.
That's a lotta dedication.
THANKS,
FREUD
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I read the whole post at one time. I am very interested to see how this car does on the salt. I love long cars, while all of my other friends were building Novas and Chevelles I was cruising in an old Impala. Just because they are long and heavy that does not mean they cant be fast. Keep up the good work.
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This is the shit! :cheers: :cheers:
Keep up the good work!
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Man posessed ! :cheers:
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Wow, I haven't updated this in forever....
MAY 2012
didn't get much done..another burnt out month. I think all i did was lay the base structure for the new driveshaft tunnel
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/May2012/i-W3gW3d9/0/M/IMG3256-M.jpg)
JUNE 2012
Due to previous start up issues last year because the belt-drive fuel pump wasn't building enough pressure for the injectors, i have a "pre-start primer pump" to get to the proper pressure before the belt drive can take over. Needed a mount for it and next to the swirl pot looked like a good enough place
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/i-RXQBcgB/0/M/IMG3658-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/i-8xd4TF6/0/M/IMG3664-M.jpg)
After junking the stock trunk catch (it was 100% electric), i decided to make a new latch that didn't need a key, but was somewhat hidden. The solution was a bearclaw latch that fit the stock spot perfect. I drilled a hole in the back wall for the release arm to slide through, and it's positioning is kind of hidden behind the rear license plate (old style tilt for the stock gas can) for when i putz around on the street.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/i-W3hKBb8/0/M/IMG3667-M.jpg)
Just bolted the latch to a piece of steel, and bolted all that to the stock mount
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/i-sDzxZ47/0/M/IMG3673-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/i-c5bQrm2/0/M/IMG3670-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/i-Hv6zKp8/0/M/IMG3677-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/i-pWmH8zJ/0/M/IMG3681-M.jpg)
And a video playing around with it.
http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/23505876_j68kbt#!i=1900097106&k=qzmzVpz&lb=1&s=A
Built a transmission crossmember - had to modify the bushing mount to fit. just fits in the stock location.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/i-CLT3B87/0/M/IMG3700-M.jpg)
These are the rear axle bump stops. Measuring the distance i gave myself 4" up / 3" down travel. With the 4 link at the position i wanted, i needed to make a spacer for the bumpstops to lower it off the frame rails. I had some 1.5"od x .5"id tubing, that i opened up the inside a bit, pressed in some 3/8" nuts on both sides, then ground them flat. Bushing screws in one side, and a bolt in the other side screws into the frame rail. easiest solution i could thing of. should be solid enough
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/i-ThsTtSF/0/M/IMG3699-M.jpg)
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JULY 2012
Pulled the engine out again. UCA version 3 (I think), and also built the upper coilover mounts until i can redesign the front end when the cage goes in
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2012/i-JDrxSBJ/0/M/IMG3701-M.jpg)
Had to open up the frame a bit for the coilover to fit, so i boxed it in to make up for the loss of material
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2012/i-vH7wmfH/0/M/IMG3704-M.jpg)
Start of the upper coilover mount
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2012/i-2sWm8ns/0/M/IMAG1117-M.jpg)
Mostly done
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/July2012/i-2GGBhDZ/0/M/IMG3718-M.jpg)
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AUGUST 2012
Around mid-august I got a call from my dad telling me this thing better be out of his garage by labor day..so i kind of rushed to get a lot done. Turns out he was just trying to put a boot in my rear to get me to come work on it again. It worked.
Good enough for now coilover mount
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-w2B9Jpj/0/M/IMG3751-M.jpg)
Threw a heavy/quick coat of primer on the engine bay since most of it was still bare steel
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-zvBgZmk/0/M/IMG3753-M.jpg)
Built a new crank trigger and cam trigger mount for the new hall sensors (old scrap piece i had laying around- this is midway through the chops). MUCH easier and hopefully much better signal
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-dS9K5MN/0/M/IMG3755-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-X6Ht3P4/0/M/IMG3757-M.jpg)
Finally boxed in the floor supports to the driveshaft tunnel. I'll build a removeable piece below to become the driveshaft loops
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-FdTH8nX/0/M/IMG3763-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-rd3ZMc6/0/M/IMG3767-M.jpg)
Installed the steering column and mounted my "dashboard"- Since I'm using megasquirt and it has an integrated dashboard, it saves me the trouble of having to install separate gauges. This is just an old 15" LCD i had laying around from my old computer
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-R2V6GWb/0/M/IMAG1204-M.jpg)
Found a couple of these suckers on ebay. They're advertised as breather tanks for gokarts. I threw a hose connector on the side, and a small filter on top, and now they're my transmission / diff puke/breather tanks!
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-fBPRKXm/0/M/IMG3784-M.jpg)
I finally got around to running the brake lines- braided up front, and a 1/4" hard line to the back. the right is the rear line, and the left is the front split
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-NNxJtzZ/0/M/IMG3789-M.jpg)
Engine back in and i had a problem. The passenger side upper control arm tab was touching the header, which shifted the engine over about 3/16" to the driver side which threw that side headers into the coilover uprights. argh!
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-MCm3jFB/0/M/IMAG1208-M.jpg)
So i pulled the motor back out, ground down the backside of the mounting tabs, and it solved the problem. Not bad considering i had to reference the header clearance while building these mounts from the bad pictures i took before hand.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-Kjvg6kB/0/M/IMAG1218-M.jpg)
I rebuilt the original carb and threw it on for now. With the issues i was having last time of starting from scratch with the timing and fuel system, i'll start the motor first with the carb (knowing it works) to get a rough timing map set. Once that's good i'll pull it and reinstall the throttle body elbow and start with the fuel injector tuning. I figure it'll be much easier trying to figure out one parameter at a time instead of wildly guessing at both.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-k3jj36p/0/M/IMAG1221-M.jpg)
Built mounts for the shifter and shutoff levers (a 4 speed circle track shifter). Levers will be for battery (left), parachute (center), fuel (right).
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-gFcF9Xj/0/M/IMAG1224-M.jpg)
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SEPTEMBER 2012 (First week)
Finally reinstalled the differential, and time to install the driveshaft. 6"x 71". luckily a truck shop in texas could make it for me. I'm 5'9" for reference. I was panicking because i thought it didn't fit, but after some shimmying it slipped in like a glove.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-RRRCM5R/0/M/IMAG1226-M.jpg)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-JchgK2C/0/M/IMAG1228-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-nwL7vrz/0/M/IMAG1229-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-qwHdfNz/0/M/IMAG1234-M.jpg)
Also in this picture you can see the switch panel I made (also has the brake bias adjuster mounted on it)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-9KpXGBz/0/M/IMAG1232-M.jpg)
After all that I realized there isn't any other reason why i need to go back under the car at this point, so the car when on it's own feet for the first time in 2+ years. I like it! Also this is with the coilovers at the lowest settings. Definitely need to jack it up some.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-MkWrzdP/0/M/IMAG1241-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-3WPwJPx/0/M/IMAG1245-M.jpg)
Two issues- the driver side front tire (being as this one is much wider than stock), hits both the oil filter and oil tank. I need to move them both forward a couple inches to clear, but that shouldn't be a problem. Just need to put the bumper on to check clearances.
How it sits at the lowest setting.. maybe 1.5" off the ground to the cooler.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-prfNsNw/0/M/IMAG1242-M.jpg)
The only thing I had for reference :)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-R9hqcfZ/0/M/IMAG1243-M.jpg)
Which brings us to today (Sept 7). I wired the megasquirt back up, filled the brake system, bled it, everything appears to work. Today i'm going to throw back on the radiator and connect the throttle cable. If i can get those done in time, then i'll try starting it up later tonight, but most likely tomorrow morning. I still can't drive it due to not having the steering linkage hooked up, but it'll be a nice reminder of why i've been building this. Saturday i need to build some chassis setup stands (just a bunch of 2x4's) so i can set the pinion angle and steering linkages with ease. Plus i have a couple other projects i want to use them for. If all goes well, hopefully next weekend i can actually take it around the neighborhood to get it broken in a bit :-D
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With the suspension travel measurements you gave us earlier I'd be looking at relocating the radiator in a much higher position. It's really not designed to act as a skid plate. The street can have some unexpected "bumps in the road" and at other venues such as Bonneville the areas off the racing surface can be rather rough.
Other than that this has been a really fun build to watch. Keep up the good work Blake!
Pete
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The only thing I had for reference :)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-R9hqcfZ/0/M/IMAG1243-M.jpg)
So you're about 3 ounces off of the ground? :wink:
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Keep going - happy to see this thread alive again.
This thing is frickin' awesome.
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With the suspension travel measurements you gave us earlier I'd be looking at relocating the radiator in a much higher position. It's really not designed to act as a skid plate. The street can have some unexpected "bumps in the road" and at other venues such as Bonneville the areas off the racing surface can be rather rough.
Other than that this has been a really fun build to watch. Keep up the good work Blake!
Pete
The radiator actually mounts on top of that small bar infront of the front cross member. those things hanging below are the trans/oil coolers. Those definitely do need to be relocated but I'll leave them for now till i get everything else sorted out. As it sits right now IIRC there was only about 1" space between the LCA and bumpstop, so the front end needs to be jacked up another 4-5" which would put the coolers around 7-9 I believe. The cross member below the oil pan was just about touching the ground in this picture. When i get the front bumper back on i'll take another picture. I'm pretty sure it extends below the coolers (I could very well be wrong, it's been off for so long), however the engine engine bay needs a protective belly pan anyway considering how close i have the oil pan to the crankshaft. Definitely don't need anything bouncing off the road and making those two touch.
My brother in law just picked up a nice hydraulic tubing bender, so i'm hoping early this winter we can kick out the roll cage and front clip, and be ready for racing next year
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When I build my '56 PhatPhord PU this will be my inspiration I have read it several times and will more :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Good to hear from you!! Keep digging!!!
Will we see you at the end of the month?
:cheers:
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Normally I would think you were nuts but I have friends that put a straight 8 Buick into a Jaguar 4 door sedan that also happened to be in stock & set records with it. The only place you stumped me was moving the air intake so it didnt hurt the aerodynamics ??????? I look forward to seeing the monster on the salt, best of luck to you.
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Nice project-- thanks for posting such helpful photos.
Without any shrouding you won't get much airflow through your oil coolers. I suspect that is already in your plans, though.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Hi Blake
What a Wild Hot Rod, arn't you concerned about some salt build up in the radiator being that close to the surface.
Hate to see you cook your motor, maybe in the trunk with some ducting and an electric fan?
Don
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Don, check out reply #96 above to my similar enquiry.
Pete
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Blake, I gotta say reading this build has to be what a woman reading 50 Shades of Grey mustve felt like. I just couldnt stop reading. Very cool. Thank you for taking the time to put such detailed posts and pictures up. As someone said you are quite the mad scientist but in a most awesome way. Looking foward to reading more updates as you progress along.
Not sure if I missed any backgroung info but what do you do for a living and did you have much welding experience prior to the start of the build. And for someone who says their tig skills arent all that, those are some pretty welds
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Oops, seems i moved some of the August and September pictures around. here's a couple from august:
Here's the ground down upper control arm mount that gave me enough clearance
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-qCn6G9G/0/M/IMAG1219-M.jpg)
Shifter and shut-off lever mounts. (From driver to passenger side is battery disconnect, parachute, fuel disconnect)
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/August2012/i-qdqFgRC/0/M/IMG3810-M.jpg)
SEPTEMBER 2012 (since the last september post's pictures were moved around on my site, and i added new ones, here's a better post)
Prototype switch panel
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-SgJrQvj/0/M/IMG3818-M.jpg)
Everything mostly in it's position at this point. Once it's all set i'll pull it all out and do some final bracing/welding.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-z4W9kfR/0/M/IMG3817-M.jpg)
Rear bumpstop spacers. some 1.5" OD x .5" ID steel tube that i pressed in some nuts, with the tube cut to the length i needed. Just bolted to the frame rail.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-Wqxkxp8/0/M/IMG3826-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-WFMjDCm/0/M/IMG3829-M.jpg)
Finally installed the driveshaft. I'm 5'9" for reference. 6" aluminum x 70-7/8" between u-joints. Found a truck place in texas that could make it. This is why i had to redo the transmission tunnel.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-V7X4qtP/0/M/IMAG1226-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-XdFPD8v/0/M/IMAG1228-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-bWC3DkN/0/M/IMAG1232-M.jpg)
In an effort to clean up my wiring i made a little power/ electronics section behind the dash. some 1/2" tubing bent, fuse boxes, buss strips, and relays were eventually mounted to the right on the bar going to the firewall
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-cZrtZwL/0/M/IMG3832-M.jpg)
When i mounted the wheels on, i realized i'm going to have to move the oil filter and oil tank. lots of space when aimed straight ahead, but due to new spindles/wider tires (for the road), it hits way before steering lock. Going to move it forward 3" so i also have room to mount a rock shield between the wheel and tank.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-PW85xLD/0/M/IMG3835-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-dpnqhD5/0/M/IMG3836-M.jpg)
At around this point I attempted to start cranking on the motor. I got a decent signal from the crank, but i simply was not getting fuel. I looked, and the carb wasn't giving any. Not wanting to waste more time, i just pulled it and reinstalled the EFI intake. When i went to pressurize the fuel system, i saw my fuel filter head was leaking like a sieve. too much welding, and i hit a dirty porous spot when adding a new bung..so it was shot. luckily i still have my old oil filter head. I pulled the 1-1/8" filter nipple and had a friend CNC me an adapter to fit me 1"-14" fuel filter thread. perfect! (need to upload the picture of the new one) Not often you see a Caterpillar filter on a C&R head. haha. This is the oil filter head as i took it apart. 12an in and out, and an 8an "primer" inlet for pre-start electric pump.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-K4PdBLR/0/M/IMAG1250-M.jpg)
I then attacked the steering and made the tubes. doing a simple cross-over style. When the front end gets to a better ride height, there should be plenty of clearance.
(http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-9qrV69x/0/M/IMG3847-M.jpg) (http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/September2012/i-LDbn7c8/0/M/IMG3853-M.jpg)
Now, the wall of text...
The weekend of Sept 15th i finally got back my fuel filter adapter, so in all aspects, i was ready to crank it up. Pressurized the system, tweaked some settings and went to town. The issue i had last year was a bad crank sensor, so this year i put in a hall type sensor to hopefully give me a better signal. After about 10 minutes of fiddling with the settings..i got it to run. Still was getting an intermittant loss of sync, but i could at least hold it around 1500rpms for a few minutes. The downside is it was running pig-rich and so only after a few minutes it fouled the plugs in died. HOWEVER. I was able to capture a little of the second attempt before i called it quits for the night: :-D And yes, i know i need to flip those cinder blocks.
http://youtu.be/1AVqEbvSYJI
Still running rough due to the way rich (10-11:1) fueling, and bad crankshaft signal...but this is 100% better than i had it last year. now that im in the ballpark, i just need to whittle it down. I have a few electronic parts coming so i can hook up my oscilloscope to the signal feed and hopefully get that dialed in some more. Also a few resistors and bits that i need to solder in place. If nothing major pops up, I'm hoping by the end of the weekend i can have it moving under it's own power out to the driveway!
As of today (Thursday 9/20) i put a new set of plugs in, and tweaked the ECU a bit more. If my resistors and electronic parts are waiting for me when I get home, I'll try starting it up again this evening in hopes of at least getting it to idle properly. Since it's taken this long just to get it running, looks like i'll be missing the last ECTA run this year.
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Without any shrouding you won't get much airflow through your oil coolers. I suspect that is already in your plans, though.
arn't you concerned about some salt build up in the radiator being that close to the surface.
As I’m still suspecting it’ll be a couple more years until I can take it to the salt, I’m going to build a couple of air coops / rock guards for the coolers that will extend forward to just under (or maybe make some cutouts into) the front bumper. When I get to the aero portion of this build, all of those coolers will be ducted out of the engine bay also to help reduce/eliminate high pressure in that area. Plus, before I actually get it to the salt, I’m fairly certain I’ll extend the front end a bit forward, which will give me a lot more room to move things around.
Not sure if I missed any backgroung info but what do you do for a living and did you have much welding experience prior to the start of the build. And for someone who says their tig skills arent all that, those are some pretty welds
Nope, no real welding training, all self taught. Just a 28yr/old office monkey. I bought a flux core when I was 16, but didn’t really accomplish much with that until my early 20s when i started building stuff for my motorcycles. I bought a used mig and tig at the beginning of this project from a friend who was upgrading. Total time tig welding is maybe just under 2 years at this point. Probably went through half a dozen bottles of argon, so whatever amount of time welding that would give me. At the beginning a lot of what I was building, i was doing more for the practice (water and fuel tanks, etc.) rather than making a final product. Oddly enough, to me tig welding seems rather easy once I finally grasped the concept of what I was actually looking for. All it took was a friend of mine letting me stick my head in his way while he welded. I had to actually see it to understand.
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Quick update (two in same day, i must be sick. haha)
Got my new resistors in, tweaked my fuel numbers (from a 4.1ms base to a 2.1) and got it running. need to cut the fuel even more i think.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvNm-usc4_0&feature=share&list=UUJFUi8GivnpPtj5DusKrXkA
I'm getting there! At least its running now. Probabaly Sunday i'll see about making it move under it's own power to drive it out of the garage...
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This is one of the most badass builds I have ever seen. Very impressive display of technical knowledge and abilities to be able to thinnk through the issues, fabricate and weld the solution, then use the laptop to make it all talk to each other...
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Keep digging!!!!!!
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Since this got bumped- I finally got it moved out of the garage yesterday. Re read all i could on the tuning manuals so i had a much better idea of what i was looking for. Only tuned it for idle/no load up to 1500 so it didn't have enough oomph to make the turn before I got to the bad/untouched parts of the maps. Now the task of running in the fuel and timing maps. I'll get those to "good enough" in the driveway before taking to the back roads to get it dialed in. Hopefully the next videos I post are of some mighty burn outs :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBz81XGUhKc&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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That's cool, interesting build. :cheers:
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I laughed my ass off when ur Pop's walked in and said, "...turn the fan around..." the exhaust is coming in the house!!!
I also had a laugh when the big "Cad" back fired!! He laughed too!!!!!
Keep digging!!!!!
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Stobl, Fun build to read and follow, of course you are doing all the work. :-D
Do you have one or two contacts on your cam senser shaft?
Richard
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Stobl, Fun build to read and follow, of course you are doing all the work. :-D
Do you have one or two contacts on your cam senser shaft?
Richard
The cam sensor is my old distributor with a half-moon shaped trigger wheel welded on top to let it know what rotation it's on. It uses a hall sensor (same one used for the crank sensor). While i was moving the car out of the garage, i actually finally realized that the reason the car was randomly turning off when it warmed up, was because the crank sensor is mounted off the water pump...and when it heated up too much (Spec says its good to 80*C, or 176*F), the sensor dies. After turning on the radiator fans for a few minutes to cool it down, the car starts right up. I guess i need to figure out a way to either not mount it off the water pump (would be a pain pain), or figure out how to remove the heat transfer through the mounting plate. I'm thinking maybe minimize the mounting contact with the pump, and also drill some holes in the sensor mounting plate (1/4" aluminum) to allow it to radiate heat better.
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Stobl, Fun build to read and follow, of course you are doing all the work. :-D
Do you have one or two contacts on your cam senser shaft?
Richard
The cam sensor is my old distributor with a half-moon shaped trigger wheel welded on top to let it know what rotation it's on. It uses a hall sensor (same one used for the crank sensor). While i was moving the car out of the garage, i actually finally realized that the reason the car was randomly turning off when it warmed up, was because the crank sensor is mounted off the water pump...and when it heated up too much (Spec says its good to 80*C, or 176*F), the sensor dies. After turning on the radiator fans for a few minutes to cool it down, the car starts right up. I guess i need to figure out a way to either not mount it off the water pump (would be a pain pain), or figure out how to remove the heat transfer through the mounting plate. I'm thinking maybe minimize the mounting contact with the pump, and also drill some holes in the sensor mounting plate (1/4" aluminum) to allow it to radiate heat better.
You might replace the aluminum mounting plate with a piece of Phenolic board or something similar-- even birch plywood-- so that its heat conductivity is lower.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Bumpity, Bumpity, Bumpity. 8-)
Hey Stobl you alive?????? :-D
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Stobl, its been a while, any new updates?
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Stobl, its been a while, any new updates?
Oops. Sorry about the lack of updates. Nothing tooooo exciting at this point. Back to finishing up all the half-completed tasks i had laying around. New springs for the front, built a puke tank, patching the floor, new timing bracket, etc. I did start building the intercooler which is pretty interesting to me. I was looking around for my camera this weekend to post pictures, but it turns out I left it with the girlfriend who's up in Boston now- so pictures are going to have to wait until she brings it back to me in a week or so.
The biggest hurdle now is still the tuning. I had it running decent enough before the weather turned cold, but then it screwed up my half-assed tune and I couldn't get it started. I gave up on that in late October since it was getting colder and there were other things i wanted to get done. I'll admit i was just frustrated and didn't feel like messing with it at that point. I saw the 2013 ECTA schedule and I'm hoping if all goes well I should be able to get to the June event. My job's contract is ending in March so I have to scale back on the car a bit until i can get another gig lined up. After that it'll be full speed to get it ready.
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HE IS ALIVE!!!!!!!!! 8-)
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With the nice weather I brought it out of hibernation :)
http://youtu.be/RJcxH3dp1zk
http://youtu.be/FdVW6eVwN7s
Going to haul it to a friends farm this weekend to do some major tuning (neighbors house is about 30 feet away and they're not too happy I'm making noise all the time). Friend has 10+ acres so I can make all the noise I want for 14+ hours. Once that's all good to go, then time to start finishing up all the lose ends I have left :-) Then of course, I'll have to put the turbos on and get a little more tuning done.
Getting close!!! (And getting excited too)
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Wow, He lives again....now I gotta reread this thing. :-D make big noise
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If a newbie wanted to build a car and read this thread he'd run for the hills. That is a lot of work. I'm impressed by your tenacity. Awesome job. Great stuff there Blake. :cheers:
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Glad to see you are back at it.
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:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
AGREED!!!!!
Gregg
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W :-o W !!!
Just read the whole thing... Inspirational! :cheers:
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Stobl, You got a great build going, keep us updated with your tuning. Can you post some more pictures of the plumbing between the turbos and engine? :cheers:
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Well, I got it running enough to go up and down the street. Had the timing locked at 25* in this (I'll bump it up to 35 while getting the fuel map set). Fuel map still shotty, and i only got it up to 3k with part throttle. Definitely making Progress.
http://youtu.be/-t05zVymq_o
This week and next to give myself some motivation, I'm in a sprint to get the floor patched back up, hood and fenders mounted, along with a few other things to get it able to be on the road (Still NA for the time) and take it to a car show at Virginia Tech
next weekend (27th) while you guys are racing in Ohio. Mainly, there's a nice very long and very steep hill where i can do some good tuning and break-in runs. If anyone's in the area, bring your car out to the show. I'll have my jalopy there.
Flyer here for show.
http://i.imgur.com/4YnUtJ4.jpg
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Stobl.
Where ya been brother? We miss reading about your build.