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I'm in the very early stages of an LSR build with an '84 Dodge Rampage. Seldom Seen Slim suggested that I should start a build thread, and I agree that it's a good idea to start one. Even though I'm still in the "tear apart" stages, I thought I'd start posting photos, and hopefully will get into the good habit of keeping up with the photos and information.
Anyway, as with most car projects, this one starts with an interesting story. I've always had a soft spot in my heart (head) for the '80's Dodge FWD vehicles. One of my first cars was an '80 Dodge 024, which was equipped with a VW 1.7L gas engine. This was the predecessor to the 2.2L Dodge 4-banger that came out in '82 or so.
So, as I'm coming home from a bicycle race on a recent Sunday afternoon, I see this Rampage sitting on the shoulder of the highway, within 3-4 miles from my home. I think to myself - "hmm, you don't see one of those everyday". Then the next morning, it's still parked there on the side of the highway. I didn't have time to stop then, but I decided that I would come back at lunchtime and leave a note if it was still there. So I went back at lunchtime, lo and behold, it's still there - no license plates on it, but no visible damage. I figure, "what the heck", maybe the door's unlocked. Sure enough, the door is unlocked and the key is in the ignition. So I laid my note on the seat with my phone #, and tried the key. Nothing, not even a click, but the radio display lit up. I shut the door, step back to take a few photos, and a Missouri State Trooper pulls up, lights flashing.... He asks if everything is OK, and I tell him what I'm doing, as I ask how long they will let it sit before towing it away. He tells me at least 48 hours, to allow the owner to retrieve it. I hope back in my car and head back to work.
On my way home, the Rampage is gone, and I figure that I may never see it again. However, the next morning, a guy calls me, saying that he got my note. I ask him about the Rampage, and he says he had just bought it, and was on his way home when the engine let go. He said that another engine came with the Rampage, but that he didn't feel up to putting it in. I made him an offer for the Rampage and all the extra parts - he accepted, and I showed up at his home about 75 miles away (he had the broke-down Rampage towed to his house from the side of the highway). Here is the first of my photos, with the Rampage on a friend's trailer, about to be unloaded at its new home (my house).
Ooops, I forgot to upload the pics to photobucket - will post soon.
SteveM.
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Steve, what are the details of the planned build?
Good luck with the project!
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OK, let's see if I can successfully post photos.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/OnTrailer.jpg)
This is what she looked like when I brought her home. Pretty much stock, with the exception of some tacky looking flames and a pretty decent tint job. The outer sheet metal looks good, with almost no rust. However, these things are known for rust in the front footwells. They tend to get leaks at the bottom of the windshield frames, which keeps the carpets wet. Back in '86, my '80 was already rusted through in the floorboards. This one is going to get "subframe" connectors and a full cage, so the rust in the floors won't be too much of a concern. It's all going to be fabbed in.
After I got it in the garage and started pulling it apart, I couldn't resist the urge to see how low I'll be able to get the front suspension. There is a pretty good wealth of knowledge about these cars/trucks. It's the same platform as an Omni/Horizon/O24/TC3/Turismo/Charger/Scamp. The "hot" setup for the front suspension is a swap from a later model Neon. There are a lot of coil-over and air suspension options for the Neon suspension. Anyway, this is what I'm aiming for in terms of ride height for the front end.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Lowering.jpg)
Let's see if I posted the photos right before getting any deeper.
Steve
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Steve, what are the details of the planned build?
Good luck with the project!
My plan is to run this in one or more of the Diesel Truck categories. The VW Rabbit pickups have done well in these classes, and I'm hoping there is some room for improvement with this chassis over the Rabbit pickup. Obviously, Mike Manghelli has been quite successful with his front-wheel-drive Rabbit P/U, with both diesel and gasoline fired engines. Since this chassis was originally offered with a Volkswagen gasser drivetrain, most of the common VW diesel engines are a more-or-less direct bolt-in, using all factory motor mounts and brackets.
There is also potential with some of the 4 and 6 cylinder Chrysler powerplants (gasoline), but what I'm aiming to do will be in the diesel world.
My mind is constantly racing with the details of the build (suspension, engine, chassis, cooling, weight distribution, tire sizes, transmission ratios, etc). I'm a Metallurgical Engineer in my day job. I don't say that to try to impress anyone, just to give a little background in terms of the way I will think about this project.
I'm currently working on a Body rotisserie, which should be done in another couple of weeks. The rotisserie should make a lot of the chassis fabrication work much easier than laying on my back while welding overhead. Here are a couple of very basic pics of the beginnings of the rotisserie.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/SteelRotisserie.jpg)
Just some of the very rough-cut pieces to make the ends of the rotisserie.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/RotisserieBasics.jpg)
Here are the basics of the end pieces of the rotisserie.
Over the weekend, I managed to cut a lot of square tubing and drill a lot of holes for the adjustable portions of the rotisserie. More pics to follow.
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A few more pics for now - all taken from my camera phone. I'll have some better pics loaded later, taken with more of a "real" camera, but these are not bad considering they came from my phone.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/NoNoseHood.jpg)
Just in case anyone was wondering what an '84 Rampage looks like with the nose and hood removed. I've started labeling the wiring harness so that I'll know what's what at a later date.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/NoDoors.jpg)
Here it is, stripped down a little further. The engine, trans, and most of the front suspension have been removed, along with the fenders and doors (those doors are a PITA to remove, the hinges are welded on, instead of being bolted). The hinges contain 1/4" roll pins which have to be driven out to remove the doors, and there is almost no room to get a punch and hammer in there. Anyway, they are out now. Next, the wiring harness, glass, and rear suspension will get pulled off. Then it will be ready to put onto the rotisserie (when the rotisserie is done).
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The chassis plan is as follows, and I'm certainly open for suggestions, commentary, and critique....
Before mounting the shell on the rotisserie, I will weld in some X shaped supports in the door frames from thin-walled square tubing, to keep the body from racking or distorting while on the rotisserie. I'd like to be able to open and close the doors after I put it back together.
There is rust in both sides of the front floorpans and formed "frame rails" in the footwells. My plan is to cut away the bad parts of the sheet-metal formed frame rails, and will weld in rectangular tubing, probably 1-1/2" x 3" x 1/8" wall. The rectangular tubing will then extend rearward to the point where the front of the rear springs attach, with some "ladder" like supports along the way, making a basic ladder frame from the point where the front K-member attaches, back to the front of the rear springs (leaf springs in the rear). On the outside of this ladder frame, will be additional sections of rectangular tubing (again 1-1/2"x 3" x 1/8 wall) that will tie into the rocker channels. I'll call these "frame horns" for now, even though that description isn't entirely perfect.
My plan is for the roll cage to tie into these frame horns both at the front and rear of the passenger compartment. In addition, I will have tubes extending from the front of the cage, through the firewall, and tying into the front strut supports. I'll have to finish up most of the cage before welding in these frame horns, so that I can have room to move the cage around for welding on the top side. After the cage is done and the frame horns welded in place, the cage can be welded to the frame horns, and the cut-out portions of the floor can be covered.
Jeg's makes a Chrysler roll cage in 10 and 12 point varieties, but I think I will be better off buying a tubing bender and making my own. I have read thet the Jegster cages are not a perfect fit to the interior of the chassis they are intended for, often giving up space that could be better utilized with a custom cage.
My day job includes managing a machine shop complete with all of the tools of the trade, Bridgeport, manual lathes, CNC milling equipment, CNC lathe, cut-off saws, bead-blasting, welding equipment, etc. Lack of tools will not hold me back. Lack of knowledge and expertise will be a bigger hurdle, but I fully intend to do all of the work myself. I'm sure there will be some things that I won't be able to do, but I haven't been able to see far enough ahead to figure out what they might be.
We deal a lot with a local powder coater for some of the equipment we manufacture. I plan to have a lot of the underbody parts done in black powdercoat, in the hopes that it can help repel some of the salt effects.
Steve.
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Nice start Steve.
The old saying of "Don't give up your day job." has a whole new meaning here. If the machinery's there, there's probably some helpful knowledge too! :-D
Pete
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There is a good supply of knowledge here also. The M/C shop leadperson / supervisor campaigns a 410 inch sprint car and one of those 650 cc mini-sprint cars. He's a big time gear-head. I can tap into the machinist's knowledge base, but I still want to do all the hands-on work myself.
Like I said - lack of equipment and materials will not hold me back. The lack of ability to keep my thumb away from the phone's camera might be a problem, though.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/MachineShop.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/BridgeportThumb.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/MaterialRack.jpg)
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Steve, not second guessing... but why not just build a tube frame for the truck, your roll structure should probably be mounted to the frame and not a piece that sticks out of your frame.
Or maybe I don't understand your horns. :|
Keep us posted, looks like you have a good start.
:cheers:
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When I get the body rotisserized, I'll try to show a little better how I think the frame will work. The "horns" will be short sections (maybe 6" long or so) that will help to tie the unibody rocker panel rails to the rectangular tube ladder frame. I don't have a good way to post drawings at this point in time - hopefully I'll be able to figure out how to do so. At least in my mind, the horns will be an integral part of the fabricated frame and the unibody of the truck, tying the two together. I envision some cross-shaped support gussets that will tie the main frame rails into the supports that will tie the frame rails together, as well as tying the short horns to the main rails. The outer ends of the horns will tie into the rocker channels, probably with some 1/8" support plates. I think that this design will help to tie the entire cage and unibody together, but I'm definitely open for suggestions.
I'll definitely post photos and mock-ups before doing any serious welding.
I'm afraid that construction of a complete tube chassis is beyond my abilities.
Steve.
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Here's a crude sketch of what I'm thinking about the frame / subframe connectors, and how the rails would be tied into the unibody structure. At the front, the rectangular tubing would tie into the front K-frame mounts on the Rampage. At the rear, the rectangular tubing would tie into the rear unibody "rails" at the location of the rear leaf springs. The short horns would tie into the main rails and to the rocker channels. There would be additional cross-pieces between the two frame rails, as shown.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Framesketch.jpg)
I think there will have to be some tri-angulation and gussets involved as well.
Please let me know if this looks like a reasonable plan.
Steve.
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1 more pic, this time of more rotisserie parts. The 3" tubing with the "saddles" bolted on will be attached to the ends of the rotisserie. The saddles will be welded to the underside of the ends, and the 3" tubes will bolt to the saddles. This will allow it to break down into a smaller package after the rotisserie is done being used. The 2-1/2" tubes with all the holes will provide the vertical adjustment for the mounting points to the body (to get the center of gravity right for rotational purposes). The 5" tubing with the holes and bolts will be fitted to some Neon stub axles, which will allow the entire body to rotate. The shorter piece of 3" tubing in the foreground will tie together the 2 long pieces of 2-1/2" tubing that will join the 2 ends, underneath the truck's body.
I realize that these may not be the most interesting photos, but this is where I'm at in the build.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Rotisserieparts.jpg)
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Steve
Make it lower
For years I didn't lower the Merk much and made lots of passes of 200 +-5 MPH, but couldn't put 2 together till 98. In 1999 and 2000 lowered the car a bunch and went fairly fast with a N/A motor.
I just thought too much like an OEM engineer. Not a RACER.
I don't make that mistake these days.
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Rick - thanks for the input. I think you are right, I should get it as low as possible. I have been studying the suspension with an eye towards getting lower. Once on the salt, I don't think there is much need for ground clearance, correct? Any idea how much ground clearance you were running with your Merk?
The tires shown in the photo are about 1/2" bigger than I intend to run at race time, but 1/4" on the radius isn't much in terms of lowering. The other current limiting factor is that the factory strut is just about bottomed out in that photo. The 1st generation Neon struts are about 2" shorter, which would allow a deeper drop. The other thing that happens is that the lower control arms start to get a funny geometry with an extreme drop. Something I'm looking at changing is the relative elevation of the front K-frame, where the lower CA's mount. I think I might be able to raise the K-frame up about an inch, which would help to improve the geometry to some extent. I also plan to flip the tie-rod ends to the underside of the steering arm for better geometry (using heim joints), and to keep the tie rods from hitting the subframe rail. I can always come up with some camber adjustment plates for the upper strut mounts.
I'm actually day-dreaming about running an air suspension system (air bags which fit over the struts) to fine-tune the ride height, and also allow the truck to go over a curb or up onto the trailer as needed by airing up the bags. I think that's do-able, but is not exactly in keeping with the K.I.S.S. parameters.
Steve
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Steve,
Great start and project! Good to see you have plenty of shop back up, it is amazing what the shop guys can make for you if you get them involved with your project. Also like your commitment to doing all of the car your self, what great experience and learning potential. You will be surprised what you can do and how much you will learn. Listen to the guys on this site, a lot of really great experience here. Looking forward to the progress reports.
Rex
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Steve
The Merkur lowering was limited by the front crossmember which I chose to not replace. It would have required dry sump and shallow pan and I just wasn't prepared to do that at the time.
The very lowest clearance at that crossmember was 2", which made it impossible to roll a floor jack far enough in for stable jacking. (that struggle is what led me to the air jacks in the lakester)
Two photos One as run in 98 as a turbo 2.5L and the second in 2000 as a 3.0L N/A
Since I couldn't get the car much lower, I did a front end air dam that managed the air much better than production parts. The lower (rubber) skirt was 1/8" from the salt. Even in Altered class that front end wasn't quite legal and required some mods before the Mayor allowed me into impound for an overnight visit. Actualy we cut off the offending parts, went faster and qualified again.
All that said, lower is better, and I probably would have been further ahead to dry sump in the beginning. I did do that for the 3 litre engine in 2000, but still didn't have the real shallow pan, just a majorly reworked stocker.
It looks like you have the beginning of a really fun project. Use your resources well.
The whole shop will want to help once they get wind of what you are doing.
Enjoy
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Thanks for the pics, Rick. I always thought those Merkur XR4TI's were cool. A buddy of mine had one (actually his dad's car) when we were in college in the late '80's. Very different for the US market at the time, and the turbo motors certainly have a lot of potential. I know that the ABS on that thing saved his butt at least once, also.
I have already investigated the possibility of a dry sump setup, but it's pretty cost prohibitive for what I want to do. The dry sump setup from the main VW hot-rod guy would cost about as much as the rest of the engine combined. I think I may be able to get by with a factory oil pan, but would like to add a skid plate, or skid bars, if the rules allow for a skid plate in the production classes.
The floor jack clearance is certainly an issue. I'm picturing the need to carry a couple of very short ramps around with me in order to get it jacked up. I have also considered beefing up the front bumper and front frame to the point that bumper jacking would be possible.
I haven't been able to tell by the rulebook if a skid plate to protect the engine and trans would be allowed, or if that's too close to "streamlining" to be permitted. When I get a little deeper into the build, I'm sure that I'll make a request for an official answer at some point.
As far as help from the machinists, I solicit help on most of my "government" projects. I'm into guns, bicycles, cars, pinewood derby, boats, etc., and have the opportunity/need to make parts from time to time. I can run the Bridgeport and lathe to make simple parts, I can weld, cut, measure, and layout parts - but I don't have any skills with the CNC stuff. Some of the other guys will say - "Just give it to so-and-so, he can whip that up for you in no time". However, I prefer to ask some questions, then come in on a Saturday morning, take my time, and make my own chips.
The earliest I'd be looking to get onto the salt would be in the summer of 2013. We already have summer vacation plans for 2012, and the truck wouldn't be ready in time, anyway. I'm just hoping that none of the existing records in classes where I could run will get raised significantly before I can make it out. I guess that's just part of the LSR racing experience.
Steve.
Steve.
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oh the heavy footfalls of a competetior with a new car :-P
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Yes, I'm riding high on a wave of enthusiasm right now. I can't stop thinking about this project. I'm sure that the intensity will drop and rise many times before this thing gets a chance to race, but that's just the way it goes. Big visions, small budgets, and no experience with LSR racing will make this an interesting adventure.
I have some friends and acquaintances involved with other forms of racing (drag racing, SCCA sports cars). All of those guys are fired up about my project as well. I've already had a friend volunteer his SCCA safety equipment for the effort (fire suit, HANS device, helmet, etc). I'll be happy to take as much help as I can get, provided that his stuff meets the requirements for SCTA racing.
I'm 43 years old, and have been reading and fantasizing about LSR racing ever since I can remember (maybe since I was 10-12 years old). I'm at a point in my life where this is probably the most realistic chance I will have at getting into the game.
SteveM.
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You do realize that once you're afflicted with salt fever it's almost impossible to cure? :-D :-D :-D
You'll find that you may be considered a young'n around there! :roll: :roll: :evil:
Pete
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Steve, what kind of bike racing? Road, Mtn? There are a few of us into that sort of thing as well. It was my vocation and avocation for half my adult life.
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You do realize that once you're afflicted with salt fever it's almost impossible to cure? :-D :-D :-D
You'll find that you may be considered a young'n around there! :roll: :roll: :evil:
Pete
I believe you on both accounts. One of my other hobbies is bicycle racing (road racing, crits, Time Trial, and Cyclocross), which I have a lot of fun with, but I am not very good at. I frequently get beat by bicycle racers much older than myself. My main excuse is that they have had much more time to train than I have. :-D
Steve.
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At least with cross you can drink more beer and mask your fitness level! :cheers:
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It is usually more difficult to tell if one has been "dropped" in a 'cross race, as the field tends to get spread out quite a bit. The last race of our local 'cross season is this upcoming weekend. It's snowing right now, so that should be a fun race. The heckling should have a little extra intensity, as there won't be another 'cross race to heckle until next fall.
Steve.
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The heckling is more fun than racing!
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I'm going to try a couple of higher-resolution photos to see how they look.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0225.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0191.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0186.jpg)
My neighbor and fellow gear-head helping me strip the Rampage down. I think he found the original "build sheet" in this photo.
One last pic for now - me in another racing venue. Yes, that is a pink & black carbon fiber cyclocross frame. It belongs to my wife, but she was letting me borrow it for this race, as I had loaned my bike out to someone else.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/QueenyCross1.jpg)
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The second one doesn't look that great! :-D :-D :evil:
Pete
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Not going hard enough, I can't see spittle and lung butter! Nothing wrong with rocking the pink.
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The footwells in these trucks are known for rust. The root cause is usually a leaky windshield seal. This one is no different. That rust is the main reason why I want to weld in some rectangular tubing to tie the front K-member into the rear "frame rails", as much as you can call them frame rails. By the time I get done cutting out the rust in the floor, it will be pretty Flintstone-ish. Fresh steel is the prescription for this ailment.
As far as the spittle and lung butter, it was definitely flying out of me during that race, but I must have stopped hacking at least long enough for that photo to be taken.
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One more pic for today. These are a couple of half-moon rings I made for the 'round-the-clock adjustment of the rotisserie. The hubs I'm using for the rotation of the rotisserie have a 5 on 100mm bolt pattern. These half-moons have 3 different 5 on 100 mm bolt patterns drilled into them, each one clocked 18 degrees out of phase with respect to the next. By combining the 5 hole pattern on the fixed part of the hub, combined with the 9 holes on each of these half-moon pieces, I should have plenty of positioning options when it comes to spinning the Rampage chassis around.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0235.jpg)
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A couple of better pics of the trucklet as-recieved (I spent quite a bit of time uploading photos to my Photobucket account yesterday).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0181.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0176.jpg)
If I had any decent Photoshop skills, I could slam it on the ground, scab on some Moon disks, and have a decent approximation of what it will look like after a lot of the work is completed.
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Make sure you save those 'before' photos to put in your log book.
DW
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I've never understood why this and the Rabbits are SCTA legal in truck classes but Rancheros and El Caminos aren't.
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One of life's great mysteries. I think I understand the history, but not the reasoning.
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I have no idea about how the various vehicles have been classed over the years. As long as the rules don't change before I can get to the salt, at least I know that I'll be within the rules.
On another topic - I just had lunch with a local VW racer (drag racing and autocross). One of the topics that came up was his recommendation that I might want to consider running an automatic transmission. He has been using one in his VW drag car (runs in the 10's), and says that his car will run quicker and faster with the automatic, as he can stay "on the boost" the entire run. What do you guys think about this possibility for getting the most out of a turbo diesel application?
I know that in the Mercedes turbodiesel world, the only 2.5 Turbo Diesel cars brought to the USA were all automatics. Many people say that these cars are quicker and faster than the Euro versions which were available with 5-speeds, due to the same effect (being able to stay under boost while under accelleration). I have a Mercedes 190 2.5 Turbo Diesel, which I have swapped a 5-speed into. I think there is something to this effect, as I have to lift momentarily to shift between gears.
Would an automatic with manual valve body be worth considering?
Steve.
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Steve, here's an interesting comment about diesel engines and the pause between gears (if there is a pause):
The company that bought me out three or four years ago runs International trucks with 6-speed automatic trannys. I've driven them a couple of times, just putting the gear lever into "D" and get going. Between each of the gears, though, there is a pause - that sounds about the same length as the pause would be for a well-trained driver on a manual transmission. It's programmed into the trans, I believe. I've never ask a mechanic about the pause. But there is one, and that would lay a dark cloud over your "keep it on the boost" theory. Maybe it's only for larger engines/trucks.
I know that more and more semi tractors these days are equipped with automatic trans, some only for going back and forth between the two top gears (hilly highways, for instance), and some are advertised as fully automatic. End of this digression.
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With respect to the chassis/cage construction, it has been suggested that I might be better off to cut the entire floor out of the truck, from door sill to door sill, and start fresh with the chassis/cage construction, as opposed to trying to weld into the existing floor.
As far as the transmission question, that decision still lays down the road a bit, but it's interesting to think about.
As I ponder this issue of chassis/cage construction, I'm definitely seeing the logic behind cutting out the entire floor and starting fresh. Other opinons?
Steve.
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I've never understood why this and the Rabbits are SCTA legal in truck classes but Rancheros and El Caminos aren't.
They are not legal in all truck classes, just the "mid-mini" truck classes.
When the rule declaring Rancheros and El Caminos to not be full size trucks was made there was no mid-mini truck class to put them in. You were either a full size truck or a coupe/sedan, no 3rd option. so they were dumped there.
I think Rancheros and El Caminos should be allowed to compete as Mid-Mini pickups just like Rabbit pickups and Rampages but nobody has ever submitted that rule change request.
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They are not legal in all truck classes, just the "mid-mini" truck classes.
Rabbits race in "Diesel Truck".
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Rabbit Pickups. (also called Caddy's in the VW world).
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Not all of them race in the DT classes.
BONNEVILLE NATIONAL CAR RECORDS
Blown Modified Mid-Mini Pickup - /BMMP
G White Goose Bar Racing K. Pedersen 08/11 194.520
Production Mid/Mini Pickup - /PMP
G White Goose Bar Racing/Sloan
K. Pedersen 08/08 129.694
EL MIRAGE CAR RECORDS
Blown Modified Mid-Mini Pickup - /BMMP
F White Goose bar Racing K. Pederson 05/10 162.910
G White Goose Bar Racing K. Pedersen 11/11 168.916
Modified Mid-Mini Pickup - /MMP
H White Goose Bar Racing M. Manghelli 05/07 114.661
Production Mid-Mini Pickup - /P/MP
G White Goose Bar Racing R. Yacoucci 09/08 123.007
DW
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They are not legal in all truck classes, just the "mid-mini" truck classes.
Rabbits race in "Diesel Truck".
Yep, you are right. I should have clarified by saying they are not legal in the full size pickup truck classes (PP, MP & BMP) which is where the Rancheros and El Caminos mentioned earlier are specifically prohibited from running. I thought that's what we were talking about.
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You are correct too JR. I was helping the fans.
DW
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You are correct too JR. I was helping the fans.
DW
You have fans now Dan? Thats progression from the usual internet stalkers! :-D :-)
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Regarding cage construction and the factory floorpan, are there any rules of thumb regarding how much of the original floorpan needs to stay intact in order to meet the requirements for various production classes. I have sent an email to the rules coordinator at SCTA-BNI, but it never hurts to solicit opinions here, either.
Since the rules require all factory body panels, mounted in original locations, what can be done about the floorpan(s) with respect to cage construction. Since I already have holes rusted through both footwells, does it seem OK to weld in some subframe connectors and then patch the missing areas of floorpan with common flat steel sheet, bent into approximately the same as original shape?
That would be much easier than trying to find a set of virgin floorpans for one of these cars. To my knowledge, there are no reproduction pans available, and almost all of the original ones are rusted.
One of the other suggestions was to cut away the entire floorpan, build the cage, drop the body over the cage, and then re-construct the floor, using a combination of the original floorpan and fabricated steel sheet. Anybody want to hazard a guess whether or not this is allowable for production-based vehicles?
My mind is open, and I'm hungry for ideas.
Steve.
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In production class vehicles the airflow under the vehicle is as important as the flow over the top. Since belly pans and step pans are illegal in production class vehicles, showing up with a fabricated floorpan (whatever the original reasoning for it) in a production class car could be very hazardous to your chances of setting a record and get it certified.
Just my $0.02
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Fabricated floor pans have been accepted. The caveat however is that the new pan must be in the OEM location and not appear to offer any aero advantage. If the original pan is NOT flat but has dips and bulges the new pan must be done in the same manner. As always, it is the competitor who must provide documentation as to OEM compatability.
DW
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I won't cut out and throw away any of the floor just yet. I'll take lots of pics and not take any irreversible actions until I hear from the rules chariman. I need to sit down with a tape measure and graph paper to capture a bunch of dimensions before I start cutting, also.
Steve.
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A little more progress this evening. I managed to remove all the old "clip" style windshield trim without mangling any of it, and managed to remove the windshield without breaking it. I feel pretty fortunate on both accounts.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0240.jpg)
I think it's time I let you all see the full extent of the driver's side floorboard rust....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0243.jpg)
And the overall interior condition...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0244.jpg)
I think you'll be able to see why I have some questions about what is allowable in terms of floorpan replacement, and re-inforcement of the existing subframe rails. I have a plan coming together in my mind, based on information presented here, as well as hearing back from the SCTA Rules Coordinator. I think I'll have to re-create the existing subframe rails as close to the original design as possible on the outside of the floorpan. As long as I follow the contour of the original floor (no streamlining, flat belly pan, etc), I should be OK. The remaining reinforcement and cage construction will have to take place inside the passenger compartment, leaving the under-side contour in the stock shape.
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May I suggest you contact the guys on the truck committee directly?
From section 16 of your 2011 rulebook:
Truck Category/Pickup Classes:
Ed Whiteley
559-791-0947
edwhiteley@hotmail.com
Jim Dunn
805-495-5229
dieselsalttoy@aol.com
DW
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Yabba Dubba Dooo - that's what they do. I've owned two Rampages, and to be honest, if I could find an affordable clean one, I'd own another.
I'd talk with Ed and Jim, and see what kind of latitude they'll allow you.
I was very fortunate with the Midget when I replaced my passenger side floor, in that stampings are still available. After Chrysler stopped making the Omni/Horizon platform, I seriously doubt that anybody else was interested in seeing the lineage continue.
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I'll email the truck category committee members - very good idea. After hearing from the rules committee chair, I think I'll be re-constructing the subframe and floor to be "stock replacement" on the outside surfaces, and will keep all the cage and reinforcements on the inside of the cab.
Today, however, I'll be welding on the rotisserie project. Gotta keep it moving forward....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/WeldingRotiss.jpg)
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I got the rotisserie "mostly" done. There are a few more gussets that need to be added, and the overall length needs to be set before attaching the front bumper mounts. The 8 foot piece of 2-1/2" tubing is just being used as a placeholder for now.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/photo2.jpg)
The rotating mechanism turned out to be more complicated than originally planned, but I think the addition of a bearing-containing hub will be nice.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/photo1.jpg)
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Nice work on the Rotisserie, Steve. Hope there is enough height in it to swing the shell 90 degrees or more. Also, your Garage is WAY TOO CLEAN AND TIDY!! Anyone would think you had an organised mind or something..... :evil: :evil: :evil:
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Paul - thanks for the compliments. The end sections of the rotisserie telescope upwards to bring the centerline of rotation up to a max of 4 feet. That "should" be enough to allow the entire body to rotate 360 degrees. As I'm sure you know, however, there are always unforseen problems.
Steve.
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Just a little update - emails have been sent to Jim Dunn and Ed Whiteley, just waiting for a reply. I expect them to tell me that it's OK to replace the rust with fresh steel, as long as the contours and dimensions of the new stuff match what was removed. You can see in the pics below that some 2 x 3 rectangular tubing should be a nice replacement for the rusted subframe rail that is pictured.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0247.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0249.jpg)
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That's not rust, wait till get out on the salt. :-o Tony
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Steve,
The floors in my Rampage were not as bad as yours but if you look again at my Photobucket you can see what my chassis guy did originally. For the drivers side he took 1/8th inch sheet steel and formed a new inside drivers side and just put a flat piece over the passenger side. I still cannot figure out why (southern translation i guess) :? but he did not patch the holes, just plated the floors and left the holes. :x
I am in the process of drilling holes in the new drivers floor so it can be welded to the frame. After this is done, I will patch the remaining holes from the bottom. For the passenger side, I am patching from the inside and welding to the frame.
Hope this helps. :cheers:
Gregg
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Either seal up the frame tubes or leave drain holes so you can wash the salt out... I recommend sealing it all up. Bonneville salt will rust it out quite quickly
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Gregg - I looked through your photos, and I did notice the rust in the floorpan. Like you said, it's not nearly as severe as in my truck, but yours suffers from the same condition as most Rapages, Shelby Chargers, Omnis, etc.
Your cage looks very, very impressive. I was a little surprised to see that the floorpan rust hadn't been addressed before the cage was fully welded in. My intention is to fix the rusty bits first, then start on the cage.
Do you know which class(es) you intend to run, Gregg? The cage looks like it is suitable for any speed that you might expect to achieve.
Stainless - good point about either sealing or leaving drain holes. I agree that sealing will be the best course of action. I work with carbon steel all day long, and there are some decent ways to prevent corrosion in the products we make. Of course, our products don't typically come in direct contact with high amounts of salt and water. I'm thinking about applying some anti-rust coating and possibly "emitters" inside the tubes before they are completely sealed.
Steve.
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Gregg:
Have you done the Lexan for your side windows yet? I'm trying to figure out if it's more practical to make "fixed" side windows that are attached to a square tube frame mounted to the door, or try to make the Lexan windows into "roll-up" windows.
Steve
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If your widow glass is curved the lexan will need to be curved if you want to do roll up. just thought I'd say.
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I am setting up my Rampage for F/BMMP.
I have not done the windows yet but they will be fixed - Pro Stock style. As you can see the back window is already lexan.
Gregg
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I finally got some more work done on the Rampage. I got the back glass out without breaking it, got most of the wiring harness out, the dash out, and today I got the rear suspension off.
It was one of those fussing, fighting, cussing, spitting kind of days trying to get those darn rear leaf spring bolts out. You know the type, where the bolt rusts itself to the steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing, and there is no way in heck that you can wrench it, pound it, or cuss it out of there. After cutting the heads and the "tails" off the bolts, and spreading the spring mount apart while prying the spring eye out, the whole rearend finally came out from under the Rampage.
I welded in some X shaped braces into the door openings in an attempt to stiffen the structure for rotisserie mounting.
I also fabbed up some stubby front bumper bracket mounts for the rotisserie.
Tomorrow should be the day that she takes her first spin upside-down.
Anyway, here are some pics in no particular order. I was also messing around with the B&W setting on the camera, let's see how the pics turn out. I want to become a better photographer, so please feel free to leave feedback.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0480.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0481.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0487.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0489_01.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0490_01.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0496_01.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0484.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0485.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0492_01.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0482.jpg)
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It was one of those fussing, fighting, cussing, spitting kind of days trying to get those darn rear leaf spring bolts out. You know the type, where the bolt rusts itself to the steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing, and there is no way in heck that you can wrench it, pound it, or cuss it out of there. After cutting the heads and the "tails" off the bolts, and spreading the spring mount apart while prying the spring eye out, the whole rearend finally came out from under the Rampage.
Steve,
Yep.....Been There, Done That and mine was no fun either.
Gregg
P.S.
Go to polybushings.com and get new bushings from Johnny....Really Great guy to work with.
http://www.polybushings.com/pages/rampbushings.html (http://www.polybushings.com/pages/rampbushings.html)
http://www.polybushings.com/pages/rampsprings.html (http://www.polybushings.com/pages/rampsprings.html)
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That's a good tip on the poly bushings. I was thinking about having a go at making some myself, but the price seems fair for the "store bought" poly units.
I'm planning a rear axle "flip", it looks like you might have done the same with your Rampage, Gregg. I want to do a disc brake swap for the rear axle, do the axle flip, and get rid of that springy proportion valve thing near the rearend.
Anyway, here are some more progress pics. I got the Rampage mounted on the rotisserie today and took it out for a "spin". Yes, that's my homely mug posing next the rotisserized Rampage.
This should make the rust repair and subframe reinforcement much easier.
Steve.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0498_01.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0499_01.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0500_01.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0502.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0503.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0505.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0509.jpg)
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Well, I had some time last night to start cutting out the rusty portion of a subframe rail, and start brainstorming about how to most effectively repair it while keeping the underbody profile as close to stock as possible. Here's a photo essay of the work I got done last night. (having the body mounted on a rotisserie is going to make this job much easier).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0519.jpg)
The area you are looking at in the photo above is in the passenger's side footwell/firewall area. The mounting pad in the right hand side of the photo is for the front of the K-member. I wanted to leave the position of this mounting pad intact, so I could maintain the correct geometry when it's time to put it back together. The stud at the 11" mark on the tape measure is the rear mounting point for the K-member. I want to leave this in it's factory location as well. As you can see, the repair section needs to extend about 13" in order to re-form the "corner" of where the floor and firewall sections of the subframe rail will meet.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0516.jpg)
Here is a close-up of the front edge of the area that I cut out. This is immediately behind the front K-member mounting pad. You can see that it is just about 2-1/2" from the "hump" in what remains of the factory stamped rail, to the outside edge of where the factory rail used to be. I will be using 2-1/2" square tubing with 1/8" wall to rebuild this area.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0515.jpg)
You can see here that the factory rail was about 2-1/4" wide at this point. The replacement rail (2-1/2" square) will be slightly wider than the original factory rail. Since the original factory rail had a slight curvature side-to-side, the 2-1/2" square tube should work well to accommodate being welded to this slight curve.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0513.jpg)
This shot shows the slight amount of curvature present in the factory formed rail.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0523.jpg)
In order to strengthen the junction between the square tubing repair and the forward section of the existing formed rail, I will cut away part of the top and bottom of the square tubing, so it can slip over the existing rail, basically following the silver lines drawn on the factory rail. With some careful cutting and welding, this repair should be much stronger than the original construction, and will serve as a solid foundation for the rest of the floorpan repairs and eventual cage construction.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0518.jpg)
The rear section of the stamped subframe rail will be replaced in a similar manner, and will be welded to meet the forward section. The stamped steel "box" shown to the left will be either repaired or replaced with the same shape, but in 1/8" thick steel sheet.
That's all for now,
Steve.
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Looking at the rotisserie I like what you have built but I think a center support on the long tube Would take any twist or flexing when you are upgrading. A 2" x 2" square tube with a couple of leveling holes like a receiver trailer hitch would work.
Just thinking on stuff we have done working on the streamliner.
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Glen:
I'm not exactly picking up what you are laying down about the center support. If you are talking about gusseting the vertical post, then I think I know what you are talking about. I want to add a couple of gussets to prevent any flexing of the vertical post.
If you are describing the long tube (the 16 foot long one down the middle), then I'm a bit lost, but interested.
Steve.
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Steve it looks like the 16' tube is bowing down in the pictures. Only a little but could cause a little mis alignment end to end.
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OK - gotcha. Good eye. I'll make sure that all the bolts are tight on the connector piece in the middle. I see what you are talking about. You are correct that the body could get put in a bind if the 2 axes of rotation aren't aligned.
Steve.
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Got a little more work done tonight, in the form of fitting fresh steel into the hole where rusty steel resided just a few short days ago. I have to go to work for "The Man" tomorrow morning, but hope to get some welding done tomorrow afternoon.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0550.jpg)
Here's the basic plan, before final fitment.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0554.jpg)
Outside edge, after grinding and fitting a bit.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0556.jpg)
Inside edge. The silver line drawn on the square tube is the rough cut for the end of the "down" leg. It will be welded to a piece of 1/8" sheet that will tie into the formed sheet metal box that extends to the rocker channel. From there, another piece of square tubing will replace the rear section of the subframe/floor support.
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Looking good Steve :cheers:
Gregg
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Nice work. Unibody construction is just a bear to work around and rust-repair correctly, and in a production based design, it's seldom conducive to building a race car.
When I started the Midget, I, too, thought it was in bit better shape until I got it completely stripped. Taking the time now to do it right, which I think you are, will pay off.
I've owned 2 Rampages over the years, I always loved them, and I can't wait to see how yours turns out.
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Yassir looks like you got a handle on it. I think that with the rotocar thingy you will be surprise how fast the repairs will go and how tight the car will be. looks good.
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I got to spend a few hours over the weekend cutting out the "under floor" portion of the rotten subframe rails, and getting a replacement rail roughly fitted in place. Here are some photos of that progress....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0702.jpg)
First, to cut away what remained of the original subframe rail.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0705.jpg)
Then, to cut away even more. The area between the rail and the rocker was solid enough to retain, but the metal from the rail to the exhaust tunnel wasn't intact, so I cut some more away.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0707.jpg)
This gives a rough idea of how and where the new section of steel will join the other new section of steel.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0708.jpg)
Here's a view from inside the passenger compartment. The new rail will be joined to the inner rocker/door sill area by some 1/8" sheet.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0711.jpg)
One of my helpers, my neighbor's son, helping out with the mock-up.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0718.jpg)
That's all for now.
A black and white view towards the rear of the truck. I will weld the 2 sections of tubing together, and will reinforce the joint with another section of 1/8" sheet, which will tie into the formed sheet metal "box" that serves to stiffen the jack-point area.
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As before.....Looking good with the progress. :cheers: :cheers:
Gregg
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Thanks for the support. I had some time to work on the Rampage over the weekend. I got the 2 sections of square tubing fitted more closely to the area of the subframe rails which I previously cut away due to rust. I also managed to get a lot of the welding done on the outside of the passenger's side subframe rail repair. The rotisserie is making this job much easier.
I'm pretty happy with how most of the welds turned out, although I'm sure I can do better as I go along. Welding thick-to-thin is made more difficult by the fact that the original subframe rails are thinner in some spots than others. I'll show some photos, and will definitely appreciate any critique. In some areas, what I decided to do was to lay a bead onto the original sheet metal first, just to build up some thickness, before turning up the welder and "burning in" a weld to join the square tubing to the original sheet metal, which I had laid an additional bead onto.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CSC_0068.jpg)
This photo shows most of the inside of the passenger's side fenderwell, including the subframe repair/reinforcement, along with seam welding of the actual inner fender to the factory subframe rail. The inner fender was only spot welded in a few areas from the factory. Many of the places along the junction between the inner fender and the factory subframe rail had gaps around 1/8"!!!. There was plenty of light visible through that seam. It's much more solid now, although the welds aren't as clean as I would like.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CSC_0069.jpg)
Another view of the same area. I started out by stitch welding the inner fender to subframe seam, but eventually stitched them pretty much all together. Looking for feedback on this practice - is it better to stitch weld, leaving 1" or more gaps between welds, or completely seam weld the entire joint?
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CSC_0071.jpg)
Here's a shot of the underside of the floor, where the 2-1/2" square tube x 3/16" wall is joined to the remaining flange of the original subframe rail, which was pretty rusty. You can see where I have tried more than 1 approach to joining these 2 surfaces. The approach of setting the welder power low to establish a bead on the thin section only, then going back with a cover pass, with the welder on higher power, seems to show promise. On the other side of the floor will be 1/8" sheet, tying together the new subframe repair to the inner rocker channel.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CSC_0074.jpg)
I seam welded some more of the area near the front bumper bracket, in an attempt to improve over the 1984 era spot welds on this vehicle.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CSC_0075.jpg)
One last shot of the subframe repair, in the passenger's side footwell area.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CSC_0076.jpg)
I maintained the factory location for the K-frame mount, and basically "boxed around" it with the 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 square tubing. The next step will be to flip the car almost 180 degrees on the rotisserie, to weld the surfaces not shown in this photo sequence.
That's all for now. I'm looking forward to the chance to weld new steel onto new steel, as opposed to welding new steel onto crusty steel that's 28 years old.
Steve.
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Steve, where you can, the easiest way to weld the thin to the thick is to concentrate the heat on the heavier section and then wash the weld onto the thinner section. You should be able to see the fusion happening on the thinner material. The important thing, especially with mig is to ensure your welds aren't too cold. From what I'm seeing you're doing well. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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All righty then.... I got some more work done recently, and just had a chance to upload some photos. I got the driver's side subframe reinforcement/replacement pretty much fitted in place. I also bent the main hoop and halo bar for the roll cage. Anyway, here are some photos of the recent progress.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0169.jpg)
I bolted the K-frame back in place, so that the correct spacing between the K-frame mounting points would not be affected.
At that point, I went to work welding the inside of the passenger's side subframe rail / repair section to what was left of the existing factory rail. The repair was done with 2-1/2" square tubing with 1/8" wall.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0175.jpg)
The repaired area follows the original contour lines and dimensions of the factory rail, but the material is much stronger than the original stamped rail, which had mostly turned to rust.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0167.jpg)
Then I went to work fitting the driver's side repair section to the existing frame rail and K-frame mounting points.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0176-1.jpg)
Here's a progress photo showing the driver's side subframe rail repair, which extends back to the seat brace location.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0183-1.jpg)
The open area of the square tubing, on the passenger's side, where the 2 subframe rails meet, will be covered with a gusset plate made from 1/8" sheet, that will also tie into the rocker channel. That gusset will have to be added after the roll cage is installed.
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Here are a few pics of the main hoop and halo bar for the roll cage. The legs have not yet been cut to length, that's why the cage sections may appear to be uneven.
Even though I want to make an A-pillar bar that extends from the floor all the way to the main hoop, I decided to bend a halo bar while I was in the mood for some bending.
These bends were all done with a substantially modifed Harbor Freight bender, using mechanical tubing that shares the same dimensions as Schedule 40 1-1/4" pipe (1.66" OD, 1.38" ID, 0.140" wall). By filling the tubes with sand, using some custom made "saddles" to support the tubing, and having a custom bracket to hold the tubing tight to the bending shoe, I'm pretty happy with the bends.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0188-1.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0190.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0191-1.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0193.jpg)
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I am enjoying following the project. Concerning your tube bender, you said . . .
. . . . . . bends were all done with a substantially modifed Harbor Freight bender . . . .
Could you detail the modifications to the Harbor Freight bender? Photos of the bender????
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I have some photos, and I'll try to give a description of what I did to the bender. One of the keys is that I am using oversized 1-5/8" tubing. The OD measures 1.66", and has a .140 wall section. This is the same specification (A500 I believe, off the top of my head) as the more common 1.625" OD, but is made in the same size as 1-1/4 schedule 40 pipe. If you look around, this size tubing is not too hard to find. Ryerson has it, and they are a national distributor.
This is important because the HF bender has a "saddle" for 1-1/4" schedule 40 pipe. The main issues that people have when trying to use the HF bender are that the tube will kink at the bend, actually pulling away from the saddle, and that the support rollers don't fit the tubing right. I tried to address both of these issues.
Here is how I made a support clamp to prevent kinking of the tube at the saddle.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0203-1.jpg)
I used a piece of 3" x 7" rectangular tubing, cut a section of it, drilling holes through the 3" section to hold it to the saddle. Then I drilled another hole on the centerline and welded a 1/2" NC nut on top of the rectangular tubing. In theory, running the 1/2" bolt down against the tube when it's mounted in the saddle would help to prevent kinking. However, I wanted a better fit and more even support, so I made this...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0206-1.jpg)
I took a piece of heavy walled tubing (3/8" wall with 1-5/8" ID), and bored the tube to 1.66", so it would be a perfect fit around my tubing. Then I split it lengthwise, milled a flat on it, and welded a short piece of pipe to it. The short piece of pipe serves as a pocket for the 1/2" bolt to seat into. When it's together, it looks like this...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0207-1.jpg)
I also drilled a 1" hole through the 3x7 tube to allow me to see the centerline of the saddle, where the tube sits (not shown in a photo, but 90 degrees to the photo above). That way, I can mark where I want the center of the bend, then view it through the 1" hole "window".
The other issue with the HF benders is that the outer supports are just cast rollers. Here's a photo of what I did to address that issue.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0212-1.jpg)
This photo shows the 2 "shoes" flipped upside down relative to the way they would be when bending a tube. I used the same technique as described above for boring a heavy walled tube to match the OD of the tubing being bent, splitting the tube, then milling a groove to accept a short piece of 1/2" schedule 40 pipe, which also had to be bored to fit the pivot pins on the HF bender.
Here's another photo, showing one of the shoes in the rightside-up position.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0209-1.jpg)
This shoe gives much better support to the tube being bent than the rollers provided by HF, which basically only give point contact. I polished the sliding surface of the shoes, and used a generous application of grease when bending.
This is the bender, shown with the modified saddle in the center, and the custom made shoes in the pivot locations.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0217-1.jpg)
Here's a birds-eye view through the long axis of the bender.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0218-1.jpg)
And here is the bender in action, making a 90 degree bend for the halo bar. The 2 angle finders serve as a pretty good way to keep an eye on the total included angle. I used a much nicer digital level to verify the readings. I also took the precaution of filling the tube with sand before making the bends, in order to minimize any flattening of the outside of the bends.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/HFbender.jpg)
Just a couple more pics for now. I made a basic clamp setup to go on the lathe compound, which will allow me to notch tubing pretty accurately.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Lathenotcher.jpg)
I also picked up a few engines (3 to be exact) and a transmission for the project. Not all of the parts will be used, but I got a deal that I couldn't pass up for all 3.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/16diesel.jpg)
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Just to clear up the 1.660 dia "tubing" is really called 1-1/4 schedule 40 pipe and the material spec is A500. This is not tubing and because it is pipe it "should" work in the HF "pipe" bender. Obviously Steve has decided that he wants better bends and has modified the bender to provide the quality that he wants. There is certainly not a problem from a strength stand point to use a good grade of steel pipe in place of tubing as the material is of equal or better quality to almost any ERW tubing. The very general rule of thumb is that pipe is measured on the ID, although in this case the 1.66 OD less the .140 wall thickness (times 2) gives an ID of 1.38, which is much closer to 1-3/8 inch in my book, but if you go to schedule 80 1-1/4 pipe with .191 wall thickness the ID becomes 1.27 inch, pretty close to 1-1/4 inch.
Tubing is measured by the OD and wall thickness which makes the a 1-1/4 tube actually 1.25 inches in diameter.
Really just a technicality but there is a difference between pipe and tubing and it is a lot easier to get poor quality pipe than it is poor quality tubing. Water pipe comes to mind.
Steve you are doing a great job with a project that has the potential for a lot of pit falls, nice job on getting the reinforcements into the car.
Rex
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Thank you, Rex, although I'll have to disagree slightly about the pipe vs tubing. You are right, it is mostly a matter of semantics (pipe sizes as ID and tube sizes as OD). The material I'm using is not the same as schedule 40 pipe, although it it made in the same size as Sch40 pipe. This material is actually sold as "pipe size" ERW tubing, and is in conformance with ASTM A500 Grade C, which is a specification for structural tubing. This is not the schedule 40 "black pipe" that you can buy from a plumbing supply store.
I agree that tubing is generally spec'ed based on the OD, and pipe on the ID, but at least in my own mind, structural tubing is intended to support loads, and pipe is intended to have water running through it.
http://www.ryerson.com/stocklist/t-1562-Tubing-Pipe-Pipe-A53F-A53E-ERW-Pipe-Size-ERW-Schedule-40-Standard.html
Someone shared a story here a while back about why "pipe size" tubing exists. It was said that pipe sized tubing is popular for applications like handrails, machine guards, etc. This is where bends need to be made, and the pipefitters may already have pipe bending dies, but wouldn't necessarily have "tubing" bending dies. For that reason, structural tubing is made in sizes that match the OD dimensions of some common pipe sizes. I just want to make sure that people understand that the material I'm using is in conformance with ASTM A500 Grade C, which is a specification for structural tubing.
http://www.eaglesteel.com/download/techdocs/ASTM_A500_Grade_C.pdf
Steve.
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Right on Steve, that tubing is real common around here. I think the namePIPE SIZE confuses some folk. (not Rex)
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Steve,
Most of my experience with "pipe" is with the product used for high pressure hydraulic systems, some as high as 7000 psi, so the material quality is extremely high and which, I am sure, would make a great cage but probably costly.
Rex
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Probably tough to bend, too. What kind of work do you do, Rex?
Steve.
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Steve,
The question should be "what kind of work DID I do?" I was a field application engineer for the hydraulic pump division of the Parker Hannifin Co. They bought Denison Hydraulics when I was there and I just stayed on. The Denison pumps would pump 260 gpm at 6000 psi, thats 900+ hp. Great company, great people but not as good as retirement.
Rex
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Rex, You forgot to mention what you did in your previous life. Tony
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Rex, You forgot to mention what you did in your previous life. Tony
Rex is Shirley McClain?
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Trent, You mean you don't know? Shirley You Jest. Tony
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I did some racing stuff too back in the early 80s.
Rex
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Yeah, "some racing stuff" :-D :wink: You mean like gymkhanas and such :roll: ? vic
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Vic, you old dog you!! This is Steve's build thread not for us to pine about the "old days". Let's just say I have been around the block a couple of times.
Rex
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Feel free to share some racing stories. In the meantime, I got a little more "off the clock" work done on my tubing notcher. The 1-5/8 hole saw method works great, but I'm a little worried about the life of the hole saws. I wish I could come up with a metal cutting hole saw that had a higher tooth per inch count.
I also experimented with a 1-1/2" roughing mill as a notcher. It works great, and really chews the metal away. If I decide to use this technique, I'll have to do a bit of hand grinding after notching with the 1-1/2" mill.
If I could get my hands on a 1-5/8" roughing end mill, I think that would be even better.
Anyway, here are a couple of pics of my fixture, and the end result.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/newclamp.jpg)
This photo addresses the age old problem of how to use a C-clamp on a round tube.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/clamplathe.jpg)
The setup with a 1-1/2" roughing mill.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/fishmouth.jpg)
What I think is a darn nice fit. This was done with the hole saw, not the end mill.
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All my pal that have them swear by the Blair Rotabroach instead of holesaws. I gave up on holesaws due to short lifespan and am back to teh cutoffwheel and sander.
You have a nice fit there. BTW, I actually saw a Rampage on the street the other day, not a common site.
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Yes, Rampage sightings are pretty rare. I have not seen one on the road since I picked this one up a few months ago.
I looked into the rotabroach, but they were more $$$ than I wanted to spend for that size. I did manage to find a 1-5/8" end mill on ebay. It must have been made to fit some kind of mill I've never seen before, it has a 1-1/4" shank with threads cut into the end. I think I'll try to braze an extension onto the shank of this one, to give me a little more working length.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180806080312?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Steve.
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Steve,
That type of cutter fixing is quite common.
Have a look for Clarkson Autolock
I've got something similar on my small mill in my shop at home.
Neil
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Neil:
I just checked the Clarkson Autolock collets. I have never seen one before, but I am certainly no machine tool expert, either.
This cutter was made in England. I suspect that the threaded shank mills are more common in the UK than they are over on this side of the pond.
Cheers,
Steve.
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I'm so excited that I have to share some news - I just bought a set of rare Kolbenschmidt oversized pistons for the 1.5L VW diesel engine. Oversized pistons for 1.5 VW diesels are pretty hard to come by to begin with. Most of the ones that you can find, after a long search, are Brazilian made.
However, as you might be able to discern from the name, the Kolbenschmidt's are 100% German. If there's one thing that VW engines like, it's German made parts.
SteveM.
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Hard work and enthusiasm often bring on luck! :-D :-D :-D
Keep at her.
Pete
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I know how you must feel about scoring the rare pistons.....Probably like I did when I got my headlight covers.
:cheers:
Tell us more about the VW diesel you are planning.
Gregg
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While these pistons are rare, they are probably not quite as rare as the Direct Connection headlight covers (close, though). The engine will essentially be a de-stroked 1.6L turbo diesel, intercooled and mechanically injected. The factory 1.5L diesel engines were never available as factory turbo variants, but the larger 1.6's were, as were the later 1.9L engines. They are all the same family of blocks, along with several of the gasser engines, which range from 1.5L to 2.0 4-bangers, across different generations of the engine. The 1.6 turbo block is considered to be the toughest of the factory blocks, and has the added benefit of oil squirter jets located in the block. The squirters direct oil to the underside of the pistons for the turbo engines, helping to keep the piston temps down.
The neat thing about VW 4 cylinder engines, is that a lot of the parts are interchangeable between engine series and generations. In this way, they are kind of like small block Chevy engines. Heads, cranks, rods, pistons, cams, etc. can all find their way from one engine to another in a lot of occasions. It's possible that I will end up with a 1.5 rotating assembly, a 1.6 block and injection pump, and a 1.9 head.
I currently have 3 different blocks, and I may be in the market for another. The early versions like I have are all mechanical lifter versions. I would like to find a later block, which supports the use of a hydraulic lifter head. There are some later model heads that were only available on the hydraulic engines, and I might like to try one. The later (larger) heads are supposed to flow better than the early ones. 1.5, 1.6, and 1.9 heads will all bolt up. I don't have a finished head yet, but I have a couple that would need to be rebuilt. The hydraulic engines don't like to turn as many rpm's as the mechanical heads, but the later hydraulic heads flow better. It's a trade-off, and I'm not sure which way my engine will be in the end.
Anyway, my plan is a de-stroked 1.6 Turbo Diesel (to get under the displacement limit), running a nice big turbo (probably from a larger Mercedes engine), water-to-air intercooler, a nice big oil cooler, and couple it to a 5-speed VW transmission. The spool-up on the larger turbo will be laggy, but I don't think that will be a problem for this application.
I already have the trans, and it has the ratios I'm looking for. 5th gear in these transaxles is "almost" a quick-change operation, as the 5th gear cluster is housed under a cap at the rear of the transmission. There is a pretty good variety of 5th gear and R&P sets for these trannies as well.
Steve.
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I took delivery of the pistons, and now have a 1.9L "AAZ" Canadian-spec cylinder head on it's way to my door. I also feel a little better after cleaning up the garage. It was looking like a junkyard that had been hit by an atomic bomb. Much better now.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/cleangarage.jpg)
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Nothing too fancy, but I did manage to get the first of the floorpan repairs at least partially welded into place today.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/driversfloor.jpg)
Here's the view from inside the passenger compartment.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/driversfloorunder.jpg)
And here's the view from underneath. This patch panel is the area between the subframe rail and the center tunnel.
Steve.
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...more parts. Today I received a "big valve" VW diesel cylinder head. It's from a 1.9L indirect injection engine (non-TDI) They are pretty rare in this country, as this engine was never offered in the USA within a production vehicle. It's basically the Big Block of VW indirect injection diesels.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/AAZcylinderhead.jpg)
Not as rare and cool as the V4 Dodge Brothers type of stuff, but cool in it's own niche.
Steve.
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How far through the body repair are you Steve?
Looking pretty good what you have done.
Is there much info on hp resuls of porting those heads?
jon
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Jon:
The big holes in the floor (where I cut away the rust) are the primary areas needing repair. I would estimate that I'm 1/4 of the way done with the floorpan repairs. The subframe rails have been reconstructed, but I still need sheet metal to tie the balance of the floorpan to the subframe rails.
With respect to the heads, there is not a lot of data, but there are some people who swear by the results of a good porting job. For my application, the biggest benefit will be the larger valves and ports, as compared to the smaller displacement engines.
Steve.
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Nothing too dramatic, but I did manage to find a little time to work on the driver's side floorpan repair. I'm doing what I can to match the factory profile. This is definitely not the glamorous part of the built. That being said, taking and posting the photos is definitely helpful for the overall documentation of this car/truck. The repaired floorpan section and subframe rails are definitely much, much stronger than the stock setup.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0237.jpg)
Lots of tack welds.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0239-1.jpg)
After filling in the gaps between the tacks.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0235-1.jpg)
The view from underneath.
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Again, nothing too spectacular, but I am making some progress. I got the passenger's side floorpan section welded in place. The repairs have been wtih 0.062" thick steel, as compared to the roughly 0.030" steel in the factory pan. The sections outside the subframe rail will be done with 1/8" sheet, topped with 1/4" thick steel where the roll cage will mount.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/floorpanrepair.jpg)
Steve.
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Steve,
As usual, repair work looks really good. As I said before, any kind of progress (fast or slow) is still progress. :-D
Work is progressing on my truck at Rod Crafters and I'm going out there tomorrow to see what Larry and his guys have been up to.
Gregg
P.S. A belated Happy Birthday..... :cheers: .....Hope you had a few for me :-)
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Gregg:
Thanks. I had a great birthday, everything was rolling my way. I went on our local bicycle team's "Shop Ride" in the morning. It just so happened that the Scott bicycle company had dropped off some high-end bikes as demo's for the day. I got to do our shop ride on a $9,000 top-of-the-line Scott Foil aerodynamic road bike (carbon fiber everything). My butt is spoiled now.
Then I got a call from the machine shop manager who is going to do my diesel "big block" cylinder head. I'm heading up there next week to talk about the details before they get into the work. The guy seems excited to work on the project. They have built plenty of race-winning VW engines over the years, but no racing diesels that they know of.
Then my wife and I went to a Trivia Night fundraiser for our kids' school. Our table won the whole thing, put $240 in our pockets, and a certificate for a free loaf of bread every month for a year from Panera. It was a very good day.
Steve.
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Steve,
Sounds like you really did have a good B'day....$9,000 for a bike, Yikes!!!
My B'Day was back on 04/02 and I turned the big 60. I had told my wife, friends and co-workers that I did not want anything special.
My wife sent me 1 dozen Roses and it was the 1st time I have ever received flowers.....really weird feeling for me.
We did have a small celebration at work (cake and ice cream) and co-workers on my Team gave me a Bobblehead of myself. Probably one of the coolest presents I have ever received. I need to get some pics of it and post.
That evening, my wife and I went for a quite, low key dinner.
All-in-all a good day for me also.
Gregg
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I dropped the cylinder head off at AMT Racing Engines, just outside of St Louis, yesterday afternoon. They are the local VW gurus, although they have never built a VW diesel for a land-speed application before. These guys know their stuff pretty well, having built a lot of VW drag race and engines for VW SCCA cars.
They also told me about a unique project they recently worked on for another Bonneville attempt. The combo was half of a Chevy V8, cut "the hard way" to make a V-4, and the owner was using Subaru overhead-cam heads on top of the Chevy (I didn't think to ask if it was a small block or a big block).
Steve.
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Nice road bike, I haven't been on a real road ride in 10 years......................the mountainbiking is just too good out here! I know nothing of these diesels but am interested watching yours.
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I have a mountain bike, but have only ridden it a couple of times in the last year. I have to choose my hobbies carefully, as there is only so much time.
I did get a chance to get out on the local Time Trial series last night. Here I am in the TT, probably similar to my Rampage project - trying to go as fast as possible with relatively low power. Not in the same league as the heavy hitters with the big power, but fun, just the same.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-D686mC4/0/M/i-D686mC4-M.jpg)
At least I'm in the game.
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Haven't done a TT in 20 years! But it was the first type of racing I did at 14. Got spoiled and saw the Coors Classic in 83 on a family vacation.
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Cylinder head is at the machine shop. I have been talking to the injection pump guy and the turbo guy.
Through the magic of Photoshop, I now have a pretty good rendering of what I want the finished project to look like.
Now I have to get my nose back to the grindstone to make it look like this....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Completerendering.jpg)
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Nice job. Now all you have to do is Photoshop it onto the salt! :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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That was attempted, but it just didn't look right. The lighting, shadows, etc. made it look too much "cut and paste".
Steve.
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Completerendering.jpg)
Hmmmm, kinda sorta looks familiar....LOL.
That pic looks almost perfect but you need to get rid of the rear bumper and add on some kind of air dam (they were an over the counter part so I'm thinking it would be legal for you to run in DT).
Also, when you get it running you need to get over to the ECTA in Wilmington, OH. I was there this past weekend and the facilities are incredible.
Gregg
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Yes, for sure on the rear bumper delete. I'm not sure on the air dam being legal in DT, which is basically per the Gas Coupe rules. If a Direct Connection / Mopar Performance front air dam is legal, that would definitely be a bonus.
I'm still looking for a set of DC/MP headlight covers, as well.
Steve.
PS - I'm not the one with the photoshop skills, I had some help in that department.
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Ohio would be a definite possibility, also.
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Yes, for sure on the rear bumper delete. I'm not sure on the air dam being legal in DT, which is basically per the Gas Coupe rules. If a Direct Connection / Mopar Performance front air dam is legal, that would definitely be a bonus.
I'm still looking for a set of DC/MP headlight covers, as well.
Steve.
Steve,
Send and email to Mike Manghelli (Truck chair) and get a ruling on the DC (same as Shelby Chargers) air dam as I think it would be legal in GC.
Also, how about changing your truck over to an 83 and buy the last set of headlight DC covers off of ebay from the place I got mine?
http://www.mmpar.com/StoreVBVS2011/default.aspx?CategoryID=24&selection=8
Just saying it might be easier to do that than spend years trying to find the 84 DC headlight covers.
Gregg
P.S. Photoshop still looks cool who ever did it.
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Ohio would be a definite possibility, also.
You will love this place as everyone did this past weekend. Absolutely incredible facility and Joe and Keith told us last October that the runway is only 4 years old. It will be about a 9 hour tow for me and probably a lot less for you so make plans.
Gregg
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Google says 7 hours 20 minutes to Wilmington, OH from here, which is definitely do-able. How long is the runway? a 1.5L diesel powered Rampage is not exactly going to be a dragster.
The swap-over to an '83 front end has always been interesting to me. I think that a hood swap and new "nose job" would complete the package. I haven't investigated deep enough into the rules to see what is needed. I know that guys have "changed" front ends on Camaro's, etc. and had them declared as different model years than their VIN's declare.
The '84 factory nose is allegedly more slippery than the previous nose, but I haven't seen any real wind tunnel testing to confirm that assertion. With the addition of a Shelby air dam and headlight covers, I suspect the '83 nose would be quite a bit better than a stock '84. I'm also not sure if an '83 style air dam will work directly on an '84.
So many questions....
I also thought there was some language in the rulebook (don't have it in front of me) about not being allowed to declare that a vehicle was a different model year than what it is originally declared to be, however. I'm really not up to speed on how this is done.
Steve.
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Google says 7 hours 20 minutes to Wilmington, OH from here, which is definitely do-able. How long is the runway? a 1.5L diesel powered Rampage is not exactly going to be a dragster.
You are about 1 1/2 hours closer than me. Total length is 1.7 miles. 1 mile to run and .7 to whoa.
The swap-over to an '83 front end has always been interesting to me. I think that a hood swap and new "nose job" would complete the package. I haven't investigated deep enough into the rules to see what is needed. I know that guys have "changed" front ends on Camaro's, etc. and had them declared as different model years than their VIN's declare.
I too remember reading that folks have changed year models but am unsure of exactly what the rules state.
The '84 factory nose is allegedly more slippery than the previous nose, but I haven't seen any real wind tunnel testing to confirm that assertion. With the addition of a Shelby air dam and headlight covers, I suspect the '83 nose would be quite a bit better than a stock '84. I'm also not sure if an '83 style air dam will work directly on an '84.
If I remember correctly on this the only change Dodge made was at the top of the fender by the windshield.....It is angled slightly more than the 83. I would think if you had the 83 nose, the air dam would bolt into place without any changes. I may be way off base on this but I think the 84 hood would work with the 83 nose. If my truck were here I could do some measuring but it is still at Rod Crafters. I am thinking like you that the headlight covers and air dam would be a little slicker than the 84 nose. I did look in the rule book and air dams are acceptable on GC's.
So many questions....
I also thought there was some language in the rulebook (don't have it in front of me) about not being allowed to declare that a vehicle was a different model year than what it is originally declared to be, however. I'm really not up to speed on how this is done.
Sorry, I cannot help you here.
Steve.
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I'll try to learn some more about potential model year changes just to keep my options open. Gregg - I'm 96% sure that the hoods are different. Take a look at the profile of the hood between the headlights. The '83 and prior have a much more pronounced rise in elevation from the center portion of the hood to the area that rises up to follow the headlight profile.
The '84 and up models (except for the Shelby's, which kept the earlier style front end), have a less pronounced "step" between the headlight elevation and the center portion of the hood.
If you have an older DC/MP catalog, would you mind taking a look to see if there is an airdam specifically designated for the '84 and up models?
Steve.
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The only thing I really knew about was the fender. I got a passenger fender from an 84 and it did not fit my 83 because of the angle at the windshield.
I'll look in my DC catalog for the air dam when I get home tonight.
Why are you on landracing.com when you should be working?.....LOL
Gregg
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Steve, driving time was 6.5 hours from Webster Groves via I-70 to Indy and dropping south, time changes at the Ohio border. I gotta get down and see your build before it's finished. No, I'm no source of info on a car build. Form, not function, that's me.
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If you have an older DC/MP catalog, would you mind taking a look to see if there is an airdam specifically designated for the '84 and up models?
Steve.
Here is the air dam description from my 1985 DC/MP catalog
http://s947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/?action=view¤t=SteveMAirDam.jpg
(had to use the HTTP link because the picture was displaying upside down)
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but, from what I read, it looks like you are SOL for your 84 model on the DC spoiler.
Here is an idea if you want to keep it 1984. I took these pictures in Wilmington this past weekend of a really nice spoiler design:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Wilmington%20042012/IMG_3795.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Wilmington%20042012/IMG_3794.jpg)
Again, from the way I read it in the rule book, I think something like this would be legal in GC.
Gregg
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Thanks for the link and the pics. It's too late at night for me to go digging in the rulebook right now.
My memory tells me that a fabricated air dam like the one shown on that Camaro would not be allowed for DT classes which are based on the GC rules.
I would like to see the difference in profile between the pre-84 DC air dams and the profile of the '84 front bumper.
Steve.
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I couldn't rest without doing a little research. A fabbed air dam appears to be legal for DT / GC but has to meet some guidelines like not extending more than 1/4 inch past the leading edge of the factory bumper, not extending back past the factory wheel well opening, and not blocking off the grille opening.
I think I could come up with something that would work within the rules.
If I can come up with a set of those MP headlight covers, then I'd really be cookin.
Steve.
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And Steve, that is why I posted a picture ot thast Camaro's air dam. Just fab up something like that but going straight down.
This is the only picture I have of the Four shifts and Grins Rampage and they appeared to do something very similiar to what you need.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/LSRRampage.jpg)
I really wonder if making it an 83 model would be simpler for you?
Headlight covers are available on eBay. The 83 nose and air dam with side extentions are fairly easy to come by on the Turbo Mopar board. Just saying!
Gregg
P.S.
Got your PM. I'll give you a call sometime this weekend.
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Steve,
Here is a better example of an air dam I think you could run and be legal. These pics are of Mike Manghelli's White Goose Bar VW http://www.whitegoosebar.com/ and I copied (saved) them from his website.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/211120Shop2011_14.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/211120Shop2011_13.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/211120Shop2011_12.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/211120Shop2011_11.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/211120Shop2011_009.jpg)
Hope this helps or at least is fuel for thought.
Gregg
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Gregg:
Thanks for posting the pics. I have something in mind that's similar to the White Goose style air dam, but perhaps mounted lower on the nose. I know there has been some controversy about where the "bumper" is on some other DT entries. Here's a better pic of the front end of mine...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0177.jpg)
My issue will be how far below the black trim strip I have to keep the air dam. The most aero solution would probably be to dam off everything from the black strip down. However, I have another vision that keeps the dam below the opening in the lower valence portion, and then has a splitter like you showed on the White Goose truck above.
The actual metal part of the bumper is obviously hidden behind the plastic/rubber skin. I need to find out if I can air-dam off everything below the black trim strip which is the leading edge, or if I'll be required to leave the lower valence opening uncovered. My interpretation is that the "grille" is only that opening which is located above the bumper, but I will definitely get a ruling on that.
Steve.
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Steve,
I had the same thought process as you about the grille being only above the bumper. I posed the same question to Dan Warner about the lower grille opening (below the black strip) and was told I need to leave that open as is considered part of the grille.
My Rampage will probably end up looking something like the H&H Charger:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/7550-1.jpg)
Please do get a ruling on this as things might have changed.
Gregg
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Steve,
Really good talking with you this morning and finding out more about your truck. :cheers:
I guess I should have warned you that sometimes I can talk a "little" to much. :-o
Talking racing is way better than working.....anytime. :-D
Gregg
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Gregg:
That was a good conversation, with a lot of ground still to cover.
I just have to share a little bit of my excitement. My valvetrain parts are shipping from TechTonics Tuning. I should have them early next week. These guys are "THE" name in VW components. They put together a very nice package of rare and exotic stuff for my 1.5/1.6/1.9 Diesel engine. (Actually, nothing is super rare, or exotic, but the combination of parts for this engine is unique). What's cool about so much of the VW stuff is that a lot of the components are shared between engine series, so if you know what parts work with which other parts, you can put together some neat combos. I'll be running an "AAZ" 1.9L head, using 7mm stem valves which were not stock to this head, dual valve springs from an 8V gasser, custom matched valve seats, retainers, and keepers for this combo, and lightweight lifters with some kind of teflon-type coating from a later model 2.0L gasser.
I have to give a big shout out to the guys at TechTonics, especially Colin, for helping me work through this combination. They ordered in some valves, just to find out if they would work with this setup. When the first valves weren't quite right (1.5mm too long), they dug back into the depths of VW part numbers and specifications to come up with the right stuff. Not everyone can or will go that extra mile, but I can wholeheartedly endorse TechTonics tuning.
Steve M.
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Thats cool Steve, they sound like a good group but who in the world knows these oddball German engines like that!?!?!?!?!?! Crazy! :cheers:
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I must be on a roll - just got an email from a guy who is selling a standard bore 1.6L turbo hydraulic block (with oil squirters for the pistons). These things dont exactly grow on trees, but conversely, they are not as rare as the Vintage 4, flathead Cad, or Studebaker stuff, either. Looks like I found my block. I feel lucky to have found one with a standard bore. Most of them have been bored out at some point over the last 30 years.
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I just bought the engine block.
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Toys, toys and more toys....your really are on a roll with some COOL stuff!!!
Next you'll be posting that you found your headlight covers (fingers crossed for ya and keeping my eyes open as well).
Looking forward to future conversations as well meeting you on our way out to WOS in September.
Gregg
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The search for headlight covers will not end until I find a set. I'm looking forward to having a visit with you in September. If I can stay on schedule, I should be deep and heavy into the roll cage construction at that point in time.
Steve.
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Steve,
Sounds good and looking forward to the visit as well.
If I can help answers any questions, please post, shoot me a PM or give me a call.
Gregg
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I received all my valvetrain goodies last Friday, and the engine block today. I have some pics of the block shown below, but I'll have to unpack and carefully arrange all the valvetrain stuff for a good photo.
This is a German block, never available in the USA. It was imported here by a guy in CA who does that sort of thing. It has the piston oil squirters for the underside of the pistons and top of the rods. It has the desirable 12mm head bolt holes, as opposed to the earlier 11mm holes, which were known to cause problems at higher boost levels. The bosses are actually thicker for the 12mm holes, giving a lot more support to the top end.
This is also a block which is compatible with hydraulic lifters, which is a requirement for the head I'm using.
Another authentic plus is that the block shipped in what I'm told is an East German foot locker from the cold war era. If anyone can read the markings on the tag inside the lid, maybe they provide a clue.
Anyway, in no particular order, here are some pics...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0313.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0314.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0316.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0321.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0322.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0323.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0324.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0318.jpg)
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Steve;
Neat block-- I've never seen one like that.
Yes, the shipping container is East German-- not a footlocker but a container that had 100W lights in it originally. The manufacturer AKA was in Leipzig as the label says; Leipzig was in the Soviet Zone (East Germany) and was pretty well destroyed by Allied bombing during WW II. The stuff was the property of the "NVA" or "Peoples Army".
East Germany was a hellhole under the Soviets.
Regardsm Neil Tucson, AZ
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Thanks for the information about the crate, Manta. The company I work for has a branch in Bucholz, Germany. Some of the employees there grew up behind the Iron Curtain, and confirm what you say about East Germany being a hell hole under Soviet control.
On a lighter note, this weekend is a 4-day long, 1/2 price sale at Pick N Pull junkyards across the country. I'm hoping to score some needed suspension bits, maybe a pedal cluster and shifter setup, and possibly a workable exhaust manifold for my turbo setup.
Steve.
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Steve,
Give me a call and let me know what you are looking for Rampage wise.
I got lots of stuff from mine that I'm not going to use.
Gregg
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Steve I called our local Dodge dealer on the odd chance they would have the headlight covers. Parts lady (very sharp parts person) said no but thought she heard Summit carried a version for the Rampages. Dunno if that helps you in Prod but thought I would throw it out there. Also, check your PMs
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There are some aftermarket (GTS) headlight covers available for the 2nd generation ('84-up) L-body cars, but they are not within the rules as laid out by the SCTA.
Since the Mopar Performance / Direct Connection covers were available as dealer-installed options, that seems to be the thing that allows them to be considered part of the stock bodywork.
While the GTS covers would probably be cool to look at, they just don't meet the rules for SCTA competition.
Steve.
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Valvetrain goodies. Nothing too exotic, but nothing stock, either.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0335.jpg)
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I managed to get to the local Pick-N-Pull junkyard for the 1/2 price sale this weekend. I think I got all the suspension/brakes that I will need for the Rampage. I was going for new front knuckles/hubs, struts/springs, and all new rear stub axles and brakes.
The reason for the swap-over from the stock rampage stuff if for several reasons... By using later "K-Car" front knuckles and hubs, they will work like drop spindles compared to the Rampage knuckles. The centerline of the drive axle is about 1" higher in relation to the lower ball joint. The K-Car knuckles also use a bolt-in bearing carrier which is stronger and more reliable than the pressed-in bearings on the Rampage setup. The K-cars also use a 5-lug on 100mm bolt pattern which will allow me to use 15" 5-lug wheels, instead of the 13" or 14" 4-lug Rampage configuration. The brakes are also bigger, but I don't think that will be much of an issue for this Rampage.
I also grabbed some 1st generation Neon struts and springs, which will give a significant drop to the front end, and are a nearly bolt-in deal (just drill 1 extra hole in the upper fender where the strut mount attaches). The 1st gen Neon will give the lowest ride height available from factory parts. 2nd gen Neon would be a bit higher, and the factory Rampage springs/struts sit higher than the 2nd gen Neon. If the whole thing is too low (which I doubt), then I will change over to the 2nd gen Neon.
In the rear, I pulled the stub axles, backing plates, drums, bearings, etc. from a '90-something LeBaron. Again, I get the bigger brakes and the 5-lug setup to match the front.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0344.jpg)
Here is one of the backing plates for the rear. It must have been my lucky junkyard day, because it looks like these brakes have been recently rebuilt with a new hardware kit, wheel cylinder, and fresh shoes.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0346.jpg)
Front brakes, knuckles, and drive axles are from a '93 Plymouth Acclaim. They are in decent usable condition, needing a good wire wheeling, bead blasting, and some fresh paint before being installed.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0347.jpg)
This is the "Hot" setup for L-bodies like the Rampage, Charger, Turismo, 024, etc. These parts are much more heavy-duty than the stock L-body, and offer the improved geometry. Here's a look at the back side of the Acclaim knuckles, showing the 4 bolts which retain the bearing and drive hub. Since these photos were taken, I spent a couple of hours cleaning, degreasing, wire-wheeling, and generally de-griming these parts. It was a hot, sticky, dirty, gritty weekend.
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Ooo Shiney, Shiney, Steve what is the gist of the SCTA rule for the head light covers?
Frank
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The headlight covers must be the genuine OEM units that were dealer installed options (Mopar Performance #P4286820 or P4286821) for the vehicle.
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Got it, not resonable facsimile there of. :roll:
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Listening to the live webcast from SpeedWeek, and trying to keep up with the SW related messages on the forum has definitely re-energized me with respect to this Rampage H/DT project. Although I haven't made big strides, every step counts.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0558.jpg)
I finished welding in the floorpan sections where my little truck had rusted away. There are no aftermarket floorpan patch panels available, and just about every Rampage in existence is rusted on the floorboards, I had to make my own, using flat sheets of 0.060" steel. The overall contour of the floorpan patch panels is as close to factory as I could make them, but I did not have a way to roll in the "beads" that are present in the factory pans. Seeing the work done on Gkabbt's Rampage has humbled me. In order to re-create those two stamped in beads, I think I'm going to have to split some round tubing and weld it to the underside, in order to match the factory profile, with the humps and bumps.
At the same time, I'm working on the engine combination. This will be a 1.5L rotating assembly in a 1.6 TurboDiesel block. It's kind of like building a 327 or 302 Chevy from a 350 block. If you have the right crank, rods, and pistons, all the geometry works out. In order to build a sub-1.5L diesel in a 1.6L "turbo" VW block, notches need to be milled into the 1.5 piston skirts for oil squirter clearance. The turbo blocks have under-piston oil squirters which are not present in any of the naturally aspirated diesel blocks. This first photo is a test notch that I milled into one of the old pistons for practice.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/15PistonNotch.jpg)
After milling the notch, and re-assembling the #1 piston and rod, re-installing the oil squirter, and rolling the crank over, I could tell that I need another 0.050" or so of clearance. That machining change will be put into place for the "real" pistons, which are a set of NOS Kolbenschmidts, 0.5mm oversized for a 1.5L VW diesel. These pistons are rare, but not unobtanium rare. Good stuff comes in old, slightly ragged boxes.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0523-1.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0560.jpg)
These pistons have what may appear to be valve reliefs in their top surfaces. However, these small pockets are actually part of the diesel injection chamber design.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0548.jpg)
Lastly, for now, here's a photo of the 4 lovelies, with the notch locations roughly marked. These marks are not intended to be a precise outline of the machining, only to show me the correct rough location for the cut. (Kind of like going into surgery and marking one's leg "cut here"). The blue tape is to proect the ring grooves and rings from getting any aluminum chips stuck. These pistons have the entire ring package already installed.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0536.jpg)
That's all for now.
Steve.
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Steve,
Thanks for the comment about the way my floor turned out. It was only $$$$$.....LOL! Seriously, I am very pleased with what Rod Crafters did for me.
All the work that you have done so far looks really good from here. I would shoot an email to the SCTA with pics of your floorpans and see what they say.
Looks like a really good score on the pistons and I like what you are doing to retain the oil squirters.
Let me know if there is anything I can do to help.
Gregg
PS
I'll see you in a couple of weeks on my way to WoS.
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It's been a while since I've updated, but have been making some progress. I feel like I'm at a "tipping point", where I'm going to be able to dedicate more time to this project and get a lot done over the winter. I probably shouldn't have said that out loud.
Anyway, the floorpan repairs are pretty much done, and it's time to start working on the cage. I still haven't welded in the 1/4" pads for the roll cage landing points, but I think I'll tack them in place just to make sure that I remember to account for their height.
Here are some pics for anyone interested.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0838.jpg)
It was a good weekend to get some cutting and welding done, so the Rampage got rolled out onto the driveway.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0848.jpg)
I just recently finished re-fabbing the inner wheelwells on the front of this thing. Cancer had infected it pretty badly, but she's solid now. I used 16 ga. sheet metal for almost all of the patches. The section between the subframe rail and the rocker is 1/8". What remains of the factory floorpans is under these pieces.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0858.jpg)
This is one of the rear corners of the "cab", showing where a lot more rust was cut out, and fresh 16 ga welded in.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0863.jpg)
Inside view of the rear cab area, again showing the 16 ga floor panels. I will weld some 1/8" steel over the top of this 16 ga, then weld the 1/4" roll cage attachment points to the top of the 1/8".
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0864.jpg)
Front portion of the cab floor, with all the new metal welded in. Again, what remains of the original floorpan is hidden under all the fresh new steel.
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I made the mental leap (with a lot of help from this forum), to cut the roof off the Rampage for the cage fabrication. It was recommended to do some diagonal bracing before cutting off the roof, in order to prevent twist.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0868.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0867.jpg)
Then I formed some 16 ga panels to conform to the shape of the A and B pillars, drilled, and Cleco'ed them in place, to help with the re-assembly alignment.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0873.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0871.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0874.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0875.jpg)
Then, as suggested, I laid out a Z-type cut pattern for the pillars.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0877.jpg)
... and then, this is what it looks like in Roadster format.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0879.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0880.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_0881.jpg)
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Great progress Steve.
Hang in there.
FREUD
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Looks good Steve. I hope none of those diagonals fall where you want the cage tubes to go!
Pete
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I tried to avoid the obvious interference points, but there is still a very high likelihood that the tubes will want to intersect somewhere. At that point, I'll have some figuring to do. Hopefully, the cage will be tacked in enough places (including to the sheet metal), that the cross supports can be cut out without causing the whole body to twist. I know the supports are going to have to come out in order to figure out the location for the seat mounts and shoulder cross bar.
Speaking of seat mounts, are there any standard practices or ideas with respect to making the seat mount frame? It would be pretty easy to use the same 1" square tubing that I used for the cross bracing, but it seems to me that I will want something a little more heavy.
Steve.
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Looking real good Steve.
About your seat mount, could do something like my chassis guy did on my Rampage?
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/4.jpg)
Gregg
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That looks good, Gregg. I was hoping to do something similar, but with square tubing instead of round (ease of fabrication, I don't have smaller dies for my bender).
Also, is your shoulder bar set at the correct height? I don't have my rulebook handy, and was trying to remember the requirements for the shoulder bar in relation to the top of the driver's shoulders, and the slots in the seat.
Steve.
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Shoulder bar is just a little low but still meets the rule. I need to trim the belt opening in my seat for the belts to be at the correct angle.
Gregg
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Steve, those are easy bends with a jig or even a receiver hitch. Just get creative. Also, confirm the tubing diameter with a tech guy like Nate. AFAIK they prefer the same diameter seat supports as the rest of the tubing. An even of a hard hit the smaller diameter stuff HAS bent downward. This is from some of my conversations, confirm for your own piece of mind.
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I agree that the seat support rails need to be as strong as the rest of the cage. I think I'll go with the same 1-5/8" tubing as used for the rest of the cage.
Steve.
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I got a couple of door sill bars bent during my lunch hour. If I can keep moving forward, I should have some of the cage tacked into place by the weekend.
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Steve:
Looking good, cutting the roof will make the cage go in so much faster. With the roof on you spend so much time trying to crawl in and out.
For those real hard to reach places where your welding helmet gets in the way... I saw a guy take a black Nomex head sock he made a thin aluminum fram to hold a auto dark welding glass out of an old helmet. He sewed and hot glued the welding glass to the head sock. He could then stick his head through the bars to tack and weld the real tight places then switch beck to his helmet when he had the space. It worked pretty good.
Bill
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You can actually buy a leather head sock with the lens assembly already built in at most real welding supply stores.
Pete
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Peter Jack
I have seen them but there are $50 or more. It has been my experience the people on this forum like the other "B" word...build instead of buy. I have a few extra head socks and at least three welding helmets that I don't use or like anymore. Just saying. Lord knows I have bought stuff I could have built just because I had no time.
Anyway, either way works. You can really get in thight spots and see your weld puddle when it is just your head and not the helmet.
Bill
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I often weld for a living and I don't own one. Just trying to show the available alternatives. :-D :-D :-D
I'd probably buy one because when I'd need it, I'd need it now. That's the way things work when you're trying to scrounge out a living. I actually encourage people to make home brewed solutions when it suits their purposes. The more ingenious you are, probably the more successful you'll be at racing.
Pete
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I have actually used one of those small green "gas torch" type goggles, that only covers the eyes by replacing the shaded lens in tight situations. That type of goggle uses the same small rectangular shades as an "old school" welding mask. I'm not saying it's the safest solution anyone has ever come up with, but by putting in a #10 shade, it works pretty well.
Steve.
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It does Steve, as far as protecting your eyes, but once you've had one of those deep purple sunburns and you hear the stories about melanoma it's unlikely you'll do it again.
Pete
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Good point, Peter. I do have a balaclava type headsock that I could probably seal to the outside of the cutting goggles with tape and/or glue. I'll put that on the list of things to do before I jam my head into some tight crevasse and start welding.
On another note, I decided that I had better put the following note in writing... One one of my friends, who has been helping me with this project, has been telling me that I should paint this thing before I finish putting it back together. I think I have made the mental leap to paint the Rampage in the Mopar "Sub Lime" color. This is the super bright 1970 Dodge/Plymouth lime green color. Now that it's in writing, I stand a much better chance of following through with the paint job.
Steve.
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And it's high time I come down and see it in person.
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For sure, Max. I'm hoping to get a good work session in on Sunday (tacking in roll cage tubes, cutting other tubes, etc.) You have an open invitation to make the short drive (35 minutes, tops, from door to door). I'm also hungry for suggestions on things that might work better, safer, easier, cheaper, whatever.
I'm pretty booked up on Saturday, but should get some time on Sunday. I don't yet know whether the work session will be early or later in the day.
Steve.
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Now that it's in writing, I stand a much better chance of following through with the paint job.
Steve.
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Steve, the more you put it out there, the more difficult it is to back away. That's why I keep my diary so active - it requires me to follow through - it's a reminder that what we're doing is bigger than just us.
I was down to Max's last July - I wish I had known you were that close. I've owned 2 Rampages, and would love to see the progress in person.
So you're thinking WOS next year? Let's see if we both can't have wheels on the salt next September.
Chris
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Chris:
I agree with what you stated about "putting it out there" and following through. That's a technique that I picked up several years back, and it definitely works.
Yeah, I live on the Southern outskirts of the St Louis Metro area. Max is in one of the Western "inner suburbs" of St Louis. I actually race bicycles on a team whose shop is located in the same city as Max lives, probably less than a mile away.
Here's another positive expression of intent. - I will be at WOS in 2013, competing in the H/DT class with my Rampage. It will be painted SubLime green.
See you on the salt, and keep up the great work on your Midget.
Steve.
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This weekend, not so good. Perhaps toward the end of the month. Keep floggin' . . .
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I will keep flogging. My goal is to have the cage mostly done by the end of Oct.
steve.
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I also agree with chris. Putting your goals in writing and leaving them out in the ooen where others can see them and inevitably nag the hell out if you when you start falling behind is a great motivator.
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I think I have made the mental leap to paint the Rampage in the Mopar "Sub Lime" color. This is the super bright 1970 Dodge/Plymouth lime green color. Now that it's in writing, I stand a much better chance of following through with the paint job.
Steve.
Steve,
I guess if you do the "Sub Lime" on your Rampage I should do the "Plum Crazy" on mine.
That would be a lot of color (?!?!?!) on the salt at 2013 WoS. At least we would both be seen.....LOL.
Gregg
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Gregg, how about Panther Pink or Top Banana yellow. :-D :-D
Frank
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One reason that I'd like to do the Sublime, is that it will match my bicycling team "kit" very closely (Cannonball / Hub Racing, in Webster Groves, MO). The colors on our bike shop/club team kits are black, white, orange, and a very bright green which is close to Sublime. Here's a pic. There's more green on the back of the jersey and shorts.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/QueenyCross1.jpg)
Here's a pic of my road racing bike, which has the same bright green on the handlebar tape and saddle. The frame is in the old USPS team design (the doper's team).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Madonecarbonwheels.jpg)
I'm trying to convince the shop owners to foot the bill for the paint job, and keep it in the Cannonball / Hub team colors and general design.
Steve.
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Speaking of paint for a moment - what are your opinions on hardened enamel, versus urethane single stage, versus basecoat/clearcoat (particularly for a racing vehicle)?
I have shot enamel before, but the results always look less than ideal (orange peel, a little dull). The good factors are that enamel is cheap and easy (relatively) to make repairs after the fact.
I have heard good things about single stage urethane, and the cost isn't astronomical. One thing that has me leaning towards single stage urethane is that I believe it would be easier to do touch-ups and repairs at a later date, as compared to basecoat/clearcoat.
Base/Clear should give the best initial results and shine, but I'm concerned about how difficult it may be to make future repairs and/or touchups.
Steve.
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A little orange peel might not be a bad thing. Think golf ball dimples
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Steve, I just bought a new '11 Masi SS Cross bike last night. Missed my last cross bike, a Kona.
I prefer single stage urethane but remember you need a good fresh air system........well that should be said for any of the new paints. On the lakester I am going to look at that water based stuff Marlo and crew are using on Target 550. Spray it in your jammies if you like, very safe stuff.
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Trent - any pics of the Masi?
I have a "pieced together" Trek XO2 'cross bike. The pink bike in the photo belongs to my wife. Last night, I went out for a 'cross training ride with another local guy on my X02, when I noticed trouble shifting the front derailleur. On closer inspection, the braze on clamp adapter was broken at the hinge. Luckily, it didn't completely break and end up jamming between the frame and drivetrain, really ruining my day. I'm glad it broke (or at least I found it broke) yesterday, instead of Sunday, when the first race of our 'cross series takes place.
A quick trip to the bike shop got me a new braze-on clamp.
With respect to painting with catalyzed paint, I "should" have access to a Racal fresh air helmet, which is a very nice unit. I have been allowed to borrow it in the past, so hopefully the offer still stands.
I don't know much of anything about the water based stuff, but maybe it's time to learn.
Steve.
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Steve, here's my take - Go with the simplest paint to touch up. You're constantly working on a race car - stuff gets nicked, new holes get drilled, old holes get filled, you tip a table and it scrapes the side (I was able to cover that with the decal) - so if you use a standard enamel, it's a quick and easy touch up.
If you do get it to the point where it's reliable and the body is set in stone, then pop for the clear coat - or better yet, have a SPONSOR pop for the clear-coat.
You spend more time putting a race vehicle in harms way working on it than you do driving it.
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Lets see if this works
http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/2011-masi-cx-uno-singlespeed-cyclocross-bicycle-bike.jpg
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Very cool single speeder! SS cyclocross takes a lot of gusto (or so I'm told). Does yours have the semi-moustache bars like that?
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They don't flare as much as the picture makes them look. KORE bars, very comfy but I have a couple moustache bars and a fillet brazed Eric-bar (like a Jones) that I may switch to. I bought it mainly for gravel road riding.
I think that will also be my new pit bike for Speedweek. We shall see, the 1x1 has served well 3 times now.
Edit, watching the clock..............2.5 hours and I will be riding.
As for your paint, do the Single stage. It is much more durable than base/clear. You can cut and buff it if needed You can blend it.
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Steve, we went with enamel- my car has about $96 of paint on it!
Looks good from 20ft, looks REAL good over 100 mph!
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Enamel it is, then. :-D Cheap and straightforward to shoot.
Here are a few more pics, as I'm continuing to nibble away, laying out and cutting pieces for the roll cage.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0882_zpsc07a2269.jpg)
Just getting things figured out in this pic above.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0883_zps653970ee.jpg)
This is how the dash bar and dash uprights will lay out.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0884_zps549884a0.jpg)
I spent some time this morning cutting and notching tubes. If I can find some more time over the weekend, I'll start tacking some of this together.
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Looks good Steve, if you go enamel, use hardener, it helps a ton for durability!
And the bike rode great. Just did a few miles in town with a zip around one of our cyclocross courses. Needs two more teeth on the freewheel.
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Trent - I went out for a 'cross ride with my wife yesterday afternoon, instead of racing in the local series. Time spent with the family = happy family.
I also got some more work done on the truck, fitting tubes, getting some tack-welds laid in, and test fitting the steering column and seat.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0910_zpsaa2d79ba.jpg)
this is the initial fit-up of the drivers side footwell.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0912_zps32b08eaa.jpg)
Dash bar on the passenger's side.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0913_zpsab0566fe.jpg)
passenger's side footwell.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_0914_zps38f76cc8.jpg)
Driver's side rear.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1010_zps78a70234.jpg)
Driver's side rear after tacking.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1013_zps9cb0f7e8.jpg)
View of the main hoop from the back side.
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A few more photos from yesterday....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1020_zps6f8c0fa7.jpg)
This is the seat I'm using for the mock-up. In this photo, the seat is sitting way too high. This position is much too high, but it was a starting point. I ended up changing to wooden blocks to get the seat position more realistic.
This is an "economy" road racing seat. I'm not planning to use it - keeping my eyes open for a nice full containment seat.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1014_zps3ee5f9d5.jpg)
After bolting the steering column into the stock location. I think I will end up dropping the column about 2", and probably finding a slightly smaller steering wheel, on a quick disconnect hub. The seat is probably too far forward in this photo. The helmet is not Snell 2005 approved, either.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1017_zps89e4b09b.jpg)
Same thing, from another angle.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1018_zpsb4ad390d.jpg)
Making engine noises and pretending to run through the gears.
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Progress is looking GREAT Steve!!!!! :cheers:
A few things to maybe help:
Be sure to put a plate behind the ends of the dash bar.....Gives anchor support (kinda hard to see till I can get a better pic).
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/10.jpg)
Your seat bars will need to be bent like mine in order to lower the seat:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/4.jpg)
My steering column is dropped about two inches as well:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/57.jpg)
I have a 13" flat aluminum Speedway Motors steering wheel with a Woodward splined quick disconnect (hex was to sloppy for my liking).
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4062.jpg)
Also, be sure to add tabs / gussets on the top bar intersections:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/46.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/47.jpg)
Finally, it's always fun making engine noises and going through the gears :lol: .....I also include the sound of the chute opening as well :-D.
Gregg
P.S.
Let me know if I can help with any questions you may have.
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Gregg:
Thanks for the post. Yes, the ends of the dash bar will have some 1/8" plate welded to the inside of the "upper kick panel" area where the ends of the bar will attach. I'm stealing a lot of the ideas from your cage. I figure since yours was built by a professional chassis shop, it's a good idea to follow their lead.
I will also be bending the seat support bars, like yours, in order to get the seat down lower. I'm not sure how much lower I really need to go - how tall are you?
The gussets are definitely on the checklist of To-Do items. I think I can get the cage mostly tacked together, except for the A-pillar bars, and still be able to pull the cage out of the truck for full-seam welding. Then when it goes back in for the last time, it will get welded to the floor and the upper kick panels, and I'll fab the rear support bars which will go into the bed.
One more question for you - what kind of seat are you using (brand & degrees layback if you don't mind)? The 20 degree seat that I've been using for fitment seems like it's a bit too much of a layback to me.
Thanks again,
Steve.
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Gregg:
Thanks for the post. Yes, the ends of the dash bar will have some 1/8" plate welded to the inside of the "upper kick panel" area where the ends of the bar will attach. I'm stealing a lot of the ideas from your cage. I figure since yours was built by a professional chassis shop, it's a good idea to follow their lead.
Sounds good and 1/8" is what I have.
Also, one of the main things about build diaries is helping others :wink:
I will also be bending the seat support bars, like yours, in order to get the seat down lower. I'm not sure how much lower I really need to go - how tall are you?
6'3" and 235ish lbs. I would guess my bars are bent down about 2". I am very happy with the seat height.
The gussets are definitely on the checklist of To-Do items. I think I can get the cage mostly tacked together, except for the A-pillar bars, and still be able to pull the cage out of the truck for full-seam welding. Then when it goes back in for the last time, it will get welded to the floor and the upper kick panels, and I'll fab the rear support bars which will go into the bed.
Sounds good.....I just wanted to make sure the tabs / gussets were on your radar.
Do your down tubes like my guy did and put a bar under the bed for the down tubes to attach to. This also makes for a good anchor for the push bar / parachute mount.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/71.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/72.jpg)
One more question for you - what kind of seat are you using (brand & degrees layback if you don't mind)? The 20 degree seat that I've been using for fitment seems like it's a bit too much of a layback to me.
It's a Kirkey Layback Containment that I got from Speedway Motors 2 years ago for around $700. If I remember correctly it is 20 degree and with my 6'3" 235ish lump, fits me well
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/48.jpg)
Thanks again,
Steve.
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Steve, One thing to note about the seat you end up with......Easy access.
When I started down this path of my Rampage build the left head support rule did not exist so this is what I'm doing on my Kirkey seat. It is aluminum with a steel insert and will have a quick release pip pin to pull down and let it swing out of the way. Still minior tweaking to do and then final welding and padding will be done.
Also notice that I have a 4" inch extention on the steering wheel disconnect. The combination of the swing out head support and the steering wheel extention give me plenty of room for ingress / egress.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4061.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4062.jpg)
As usual, hope this helps,
Gregg
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When I started down this path of my Rampage build the left head support rule did not exist so this is what I'm doing on my Kirkey seat. It is aluminum with a steel insert and will have a quick release pip pin to pull down and let it swing out of the way. Still minior tweaking to do and then final welding and padding will be done.
Special note on that. I went out to World Finals and watched a number of inspections, paying close attention to the lateral restraints in particular. Here's what the inspector was looking for.
They are going to assume that the harness stretches and that your body will pivot forward at the waist. They're looking for helmet containment at that arc.
Gregg, I'm no inspector, but I think yours looks okay. I'd get in, make a few "vroom vroom" noises with my brain bucket on, and lean forward just to check.
I'm going to start calling you guys, "The Rampage Brothers". This is a great study, seeing two identical doorslammers being built on these pages during the same time period.
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Just a quick update - I'm on the verge of buying an Ultrashield VS Halo seat with the "Bonneville" SCTA compliant halo. This is a new-ish lateral restraint option for the Ultrashield seats. (so new it's not on their website, but if you call them, they can build a seat with that halo).
I'll probably get it ordered within the next day or so.
Steve.
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From what I've seen the last few years with closed body cars you may need 4 or 500 more feet of tubing in there. :-D........Honestly it looks great to me but recently what the "h" do I know. I'm glad my roadster gets thru . . . . . . JD
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My plan is to keep welding tubes in place until I run out of tubing. I think I started with about 200', and I still have some in stock, so I know I'm nowhere near done yet. :wink:
Gregg - I like the 4" extension on the steering shaft - that's another good idea for ingress/egress room. I may have to borrow that idea also. If I can get in & out of the truck with the "Bonneville" halo installed, I'll consider myself fortunate. Otherwise, I'll have to come up with some kind of hinged arrangement like you are describing.
Steve.
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From what I've seen the last few years with closed body cars you may need 4 or 500 more feet of tubing in there. :-D........Honestly it looks great to me but recently what the "h" do I know. I'm glad my roadster gets thru . . . . . . JD
Yeah, if your helmet passes through the door eaisly to hole is too big!
I honestly don't know how Tim gets in and out of his truck. I am 3" shorter and 30 pounds lighter and it is a slither.
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Steve,
You might look at a Kirkey seat. Half the price, and comfortable. Wish you weren't 4.5 hours away from the car, so that you could sit in it and see for yourself!
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Make a solid alum. block to use in place of the the two spacers between the column and the attach point under the dash, this will take any side loading off the column.
Progress is looking GREAT Steve!!!!! :cheers:
A few things to maybe help:
Be sure to put a plate behind the ends of the dash bar.....Gives anchor support (kinda hard to see till I can get a better pic).
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/10.jpg)
Your seat bars will need to be bent like mine in order to lower the seat:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/4.jpg)
My steering column is dropped about two inches as well:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/57.jpg)
I have a 13" flat aluminum Speedway Motors steering wheel with a Woodward splined quick disconnect (hex was to sloppy for my liking).
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4062.jpg)
Also, be sure to add tabs / gussets on the top bar intersections:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/46.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/47.jpg)
Finally, it's always fun making engine noises and going through the gears :lol: .....I also include the sound of the chute opening as well :-D.
Gregg
P.S.
Let me know if I can help with any questions you may have.
-
Glen,
Many thanks for the aluminum block suggestion instead of the spacers.....Something I had not thought of and will be an easy fix.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/57.jpg)
That is now at the top of my "to do" list for this week.
Gregg
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Gregg, I'm no inspector, but I think yours looks okay. I'd get in, make a few "vroom vroom" noises with my brain bucket on, and lean forward just to check.
I'm going to start calling you guys, "The Rampage Brothers". This is a great study, seeing two identical doorslammers being built on these pages during the same time period.
Chris,
Thanks for the info from the WF and what the inspectors were looking for. I am still tweaking mine so nothing is set in stone.....yet.
I will do the vroom, vroom thing with my helment on and see what that gets me.....Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
"The Rampage Brothers".....that's really funny :-D
I'll agree that it is pretty neat to see two Rampages being built at the same time. I really was not going to do a build diary of mine because of the sometimes internet bickering. When Steve started this diary I felt that my pics and input might possibly help him (and others), so that is how mine started.
In talking with Steve, the plan is for both he and I to be at WoS 2013 with our Rampages, so how cool will that be?
The more I think about "The Rampage Brothers".....The more I like it. That IS very cool! :cheers:
Gregg
1/2 of The Rampage Brothers
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Gregg - I like the 4" extension on the steering shaft - that's another good idea for ingress/egress room. I may have to borrow that idea also. If I can get in & out of the truck with the "Bonneville" halo installed, I'll consider myself fortunate. Otherwise, I'll have to come up with some kind of hinged arrangement like you are describing.
Steve.
Steve, I got my steering shaft extension from:
http://www.gre6.com/cgi/quikstore.cgi?search=yes&hits_seen=&product=STEERING:GRE6-4&category=STEERING&keywords=&detail=yes&page=search.html&template=database_list_page&and=
Not really cheap but it does make it easier for me to get in and out of the truck, so I'm happy. :-D
Gregg
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If your going to run a steering shaft extension make it collapsible. It easy to fabricate and in the event of an unexpected event you will be glad you had it. The collapsible part of the lower steering shaft is not adequate if you run the extension. This is a picture of a fabricated unit in an Audi DTM car (picture is from Auto Sport off the net). Tony
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Nice looking piece and simple too. I also like the cage gussets. You can gain a lot of ideas from good pictures.
Pete
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If your going to run a steering shaft extension make it collapsible. It easy to fabricate and in the event of an unexpected event you will be glad you had it. The collapsible part of the lower steering shaft is not adequate if you run the extension. This is a picture of a fabricated unit in an Audi DTM car (picture is from Auto Sport off the net). Tony
Tony,
I hear what you are saying and understand about the collapsible extension, so I have a question for you.
The extension I am using is only 4" in length and the one on your picture "looks" to be about 6 - 8".
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4062.jpg)
I am not as close to the steering wheel as the driver in your picture so would I really need a collapsible one instead of the short extension I am using?
Thanks for your input,
Gregg
P.S.
Steve, Not trying to hijack your thread but I think this is applicable for both you and me.
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Nice looking piece and simple too. I also like the cage gussets. You can gain a lot of ideas from good pictures.
Pete
Pete,
Thanks for your input and it is a nice piece, albeit, not cheap. As I posted earlier, the reason I went this route was for easier ingress / egress.
I made sure my chassis guy did the cage gussets and he was in contact with Kiwi Steve several times about them.
Again, I started my build diary to "try" to help others, hence all the pictures in my build diary. Also, that is why I keep putting some of them in Steve's diary.....Just to help.
Thanks again,
Gregg
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I certainly don't consider it hijacking of "my" thread. I'm open to all ideas, and there are a lot of good ones flowing around. Since I'm not nearly as tall as Gregg - (I'm 5 foot 9), I will have to strike the right balance between seat placement, shifter reach, steering reach, and being able to get out of the truck when needed.
If the seat is too far forward, the side of the seat and lateral head restraints take up a fair bit of the door opening space. Moving the seat back and using a collapsible steering column extension sounds like a good idea. That idea leads to moving the pedal cluster, the shifter position, and re-thinking the location of the switches and controls inside the vehicle.
I'm ordering the new seat today. I'll be cutting, bending, and tacking more tubes over the weekend so that I can be ready to play with the new seat when it gets here.
Let the ideas flow,
Steve.
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Gregg, Even though you are not close to the wheel the 4โ extension is significant and in an unexpected event if there is nothing to give it can be problematic. The body and seat belts also do stretch and it is next to impossible to determine what ifs. I personally donโt believe that the collapsible steering columns are enough (just go to a junkyard and see all the bent steering wheels, and thatโs with air bags). I cant tell you if you need it or not, thatโs a decision that each one of us that builds a car has to make. Tony
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Tony,
I hope I did not come across the wrong way in my post to you. :oops: Sometimes I really hate the internet (not being able to talk face to face).
I have just been looking on the internet for the collapsible extension you were talking about and all I see are rather large diameter ones and nothing like the one in your picture.
In your 1st post you said it would be easy to fabricate. By chance do you have any pictures or diagrams like what you are talking about as these are VERY uncharted waters for me?
Many thanks again,
Gregg
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Gregg:
I think I could make one of those extensions with thin walled tubing, a Bridgeport, and a hole saw. At least that's my vision of how it would work. I assume that the one in the photo is steel, but it may be something more exotic.
Steve.
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Go watch the Youtube of Danny Thompsons Mustang crash to see what can go wrong. Lots of movement there.
Here, I found it real quick.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/TTzbBRyOO0o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Steve, just got home, I assume it is too late to call?
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Gregg, I didn't read anything into your post and the only time I really get upset is when I fill my car up ($75) :-o. Its very easy to make, a couple of flanges and thin wall tubing. Steve has the right idea, and if you look at the Danny Thompson video, it will make you think twice. I am enjoying both rampage builds :cheers:. Tony
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Trent- feel free to call. I'm cleaning up the garage and listening to the Cardinals game.
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You could have cleaned out two garages during that rain delay. :cheers:
I've worn my Cub fandom on my sleeve for years, but I simply can't develop any animosity toward the Redbirds. I was worried when the Professor retired, but last Friday's game made my jaw drop.
-
The Cardinals develop a lot of momentum when they start winning games, especially in the post-season. They expect to win. The fans expect it, the players expect it, the coaches and management expect it. It's not a surprise when they win, it just feels right. Only the NY Yankees have more World Championships than StL.
That being said, last Friday's game was above and beyond what we normally expect. It goes to show that you should never give up, just keep trying to meet your goals. The power of positive thinking was in full effect.
Enough baseball, now I have to find a little time to notch 1 more tube and get the seat support bars bent while I'm at my day job tomorrow. Maybe I can get that stuff done at lunchtime if I'm quick about it.
Steve.
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Those lunchtime jobs are the most rewarding! When they work that is.
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Steve and Tony,
Thanks for the explanation on what the collapsible unit needs to be.....I think I "got it". As I said before, uncharted waters.
It does make sense and I will be doing this a little further down the road when my truck is nearing completion.
Gregg
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Lunchtime was not as productive as I had hoped, but I did manage to get 4 bends made, for the under-seat support bars. One end of each bar was pre-notched. The other ends will probably get notched on Saturday.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/seatsupports.jpg)
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Steve,
Forget my phone call.....Engine had been sold.
Gregg
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No problem, Gregg. If that shop ever has parts that you want me to check out, I'd be happy to swing by.
Steve.
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I got another little nibble done last night - a dry fit of the crossbar which spans from sill bar to sill bar, and the seat support bars. As recommended earlier, I went with the same size tubing as the rest of the cage - 1-5/8" x 0.134".
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1023.jpg)
On another note, I liked the sheetmetal treatment in Tony's most recent post (Audi DTM car) between the cage and the body. I'm starting to have visions. I think I'll do some web surfing about dimple dies.
Steve.
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IOn another note, I liked the sheetmetal treatment in Tony's most recent post (Audi DTM car) between the cage and the body. I'm starting to have visions. I think I'll do some web surfing about dimple dies.
Steve,
Ck out the die sets @ Summit Equiptment.
:cheers:
Fordboy
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Steve, On the Firebird we are guesting both the "A and B" pillars and the horizontal bar by the rocker. I bought some of my dies from Mittler Brothers http://www.mittlerbros.com/index.php/mittler-bros/punch-flares-punches.html Tony
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No problem, Gregg. If that shop ever has parts that you want me to check out, I'd be happy to swing by.
Steve.
Thanks for the offer and will do.
Gregg
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I got some more cuttin', fittin', and tackin' done over the weekend.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1024.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1026.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1030.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1037.jpg)
That's all for now, folks....
Steve.
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Steve,
If you're not careful you might end up with an all out race truck.....LOL!!! :-D
As usual, progress is looking VERY good. Kinda sorta looks familiar too. :evil:
Gregg
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Gregg:
I'm not ashamed to admit to copying the design of your cage (where I can). It's much easier to look at an existing design than to try to figure it all out for myself.
So far, if I remove the roof, I can still get the entire cage out of the car for full welding. That's my plan. I think I can do all of the cage welding out of the truck, with the exception of the under-dash bar, the rear supports, and possibly the A-pillar bars. Cutting the roof off the truck has made the cage construction MUCH easier, and I think the end result will be far superior than if I had tride to fab it with the roof on.
One more pic for now, showing the 20 degree "economy" Kirkey set in place. This is what I'm trying to get worked out (seating position and back angle)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/20degreeKirkey.jpg)
Steve.
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I've fully given up on the dual-purpose street and race vehicle. I'm "All In".
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Just bustin' your chops.... :evil: :-D :cheers:
Gregg
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Steve,
Your cage is really looking first rate!! Nice job, I am putting a cage in a friends car right now and I am going to use a couple of your ideas.
If you have access to a lathe and some steel I can send you a dwg that I have for "belling" dies. I made mine years ago out of aluminum but they work on steel up to .060 but not 4130. Steel would be the best material.
Rex
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Rex:
PM sent. We have plenty of steel, from plain carbon HR, to 4130, 4340, D2, O1, A2, etc.
Steve M.
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I've fully given up on the dual-purpose street and race vehicle. I'm "All In".
Given the rules, it's virtually impossible. 10 years ago, maybe. 20 years ago, sure. Today, you could force the issue, but you'd wind up with a vehicle that would drive you nuts on a trip to the grocery store.
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I certainly never had visions of grocery getter, but I thought it would be cool to be able to put a bike rack on top of the bed, load my bike on it, and show up at a couple of local races (bicycle races) in the Rampage. It will be painted in the colors of my cycling team, so I thought that would be a nice conversation/gawker piece.
It would still theoretically possible to get Classic/Antique plates for this vehicle, helmet up, strap in, and limp it across town. It would be highly impractical and somewhat dangerous at the same time, however. I'll have to see how stupid I'm feeling in another year or so.
Steve.
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I've fully given up on the dual-purpose street and race vehicle. I'm "All In".
Given the rules, it's virtually impossible. 10 years ago, maybe. 20 years ago, sure. Today, you could force the issue, but you'd wind up with a vehicle that would drive you nuts on a trip to the grocery store.
Easily do-able. Just getting in and out of the cage will get to be tiresome!
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I got a new SubLime paint job completed last night by the power of Photoshop. It looks kind of cartoonish right now, but I have someone helping me who says he can make it look more realistic.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/dodge_rampage_complete-green.jpg)
Steve
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Well the spoters sure will not loose your car with that wild color, pretty cool looking
Don
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I got a new SubLime paint job completed last night by the power of Photoshop. It looks kind of cartoonish right now, but I have someone helping me who says he can make it look more realistic.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/dodge_rampage_complete-green.jpg)
Steve
Really COOL.....I likey :cheers:
I swear you are going to make me paint mine Plum Crazy .....LOL. :-D
I have never done anything with Photoshop so, can you do me a favor and do one in Purple.....Seriously!
Gregg
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Gregg:
I'll see what I can do. :-o It might take a while, I had a lot of help with my PS project, but I am learning.
Steve.
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Gregg:
I'll see what I can do. :-o It might take a while, I had a lot of help with my PS project, but I am learning.
Steve.
No problem. If it's a whole lot of work, please don't bother. Just thought it would be cool to see what it would look like.
Gregg
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I took a road trip across Missouri on Saturday to pick up a transmission, shifter and linkage, manual trans pedal cluster, and the "correct" motor mounts to fit a VW diesel into a Rampage.
As a side note - judging by the number and size of the road-killed deer that I saw, this should be a great year for deer hunting in MO.
I did manage to get some welding done on the cage on Sunday. Here's a quick pic, just to keep progress documented. The blue tape shown in the photo represents the location of the next bars to be cut and welded into place.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Cage.jpg)
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Hey, Steve -
You might want to grab the rule book and check the angle of your shoulder attachment bar with respect to your shoulders through the cutout in the seat.
I don't know how tall you sit in the saddle, but I understand that they're looking for some downward pull of the shoulder harness.
I'd feel safe in that cage.
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Good eye. I know what you are saying about the shoulder bar. I'm also concerned about it being too high. That's not the actual seat I'll be using, and I'll probably have to raise the seat a bit. I won't have the new seat for 3-4 weeks, and I'd like to keep moving on the cage.
The location of the shoulder bar as shown is probably going to be borderline too high. For that reason, I'm thinking of welding an additional shoulder bar across the cage, at a location about 4" lower than the one shown in the photo. That should give the cage extra strength, and provide for a shoulder bar/belt mounting position that is 4" lower than shown.
Steve.
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I'm liking the way the cage is going together Steve and having it able to come out sure makes the welding access easier. :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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The build looks good!
You can always wrap the belt under rather than over the bar giving you 1.5 inches difference. Great belt install instructions here:
http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf
Geo
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Steve,
Cage looks very, very nice. Looks like you made the right decision about taking the roof off.....Easier to get to everything.
I agree with what Chris said: "I'd feel safe in that cage".
Gregg
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I was told mounting was to be dead level or up to 10ยบ down -- on my third try to get it right.
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Can anybody quote the actual rulebook language? I don't have mine handy, and I can't get it out of my mind.
Steve.
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" 2" min-4" max. below shoulders" from the ECTA book that emulates the SCTA book....
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I cannot find any specific dimensions in the SCTA rulebook regarding height of shoulder harnesses.
The only thing I can find is under 3.D.2, whis states "SEAT BELTS AND SHOULDER HARNESSES SHALL BE INSTALLED TO THE MANUFACTURER'S SPECIFICATIONS"...
Figures 5, 6, and 7 under the same section say only "See Manufacturer's specifications" when talking about shoulder harness location.
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No new photos today, but I moved another step closer last night. Over the weekend, I took a road trip to buy another transmission, a shifter and linkage, pedal cluster, and the "correct", if there is such a thing, motor and tranny mounts to put a VW drivetrain into a Dodge L-body vehicle.
I spent some time mixing and matching motor and trans mounts last night, and coming up with a vision of how to get the entire drivetrain in and out of the chassis more easily. On these trucks, it's possible to pull the trans while leaving the engine in place, but it's a royal PITA. It's possible to pull the engine while leaving the trans in place, but it's an even bigger PITA. It's kind of a toss-up whether it's easier to pull the engine and trans out the topside as a unit, but that's a PITA also. The easiest way to remove the engine and trans is out the bottom, but that means jacking the truck way up in the air, and having a good way to slide the engine/trans once it's on the ground. I would not look forward to any of these options if I was in a time crunch.
The big issue is that there is a large "box" shaped bracket that the transmission brackets attach to. The box is welded to the driver's side stamped subframe rail. The size and location of the box is what makes it so difficult to pull the drivetrain, or either the engine or trans as an individual piece.
Last night, I think I came up with a vision to drill through the existing bracket, all the way through the subframe rail, reinforce the rail and bracket interface with some tubing, and make the entire box removable with four 3/8" bolts. As long as it works the way I think it will, pulling the engine and trans as a unit will be MUCH simpler, resulting in 90% less cussing and busted knuckles.
I also managed to get one more piece of roll cage tubing cut and fitted.
Thanks for reading,
Steve.
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Steve,
In the beginning, I had kind of the same idea as you for ease of installing / removing the engine and trans.
With my "hoped for" HP / Torque, I decided to leave mine in place and additional welding was done to make it more solid with the frame rail.
I agree it will be more work for to install / remove the engine and trans from the top and that is something I can live with.
Hopefully, removing / installing from the bottom will be easier with the addition of my tubular k-member.....albeit still a PITA.
Gregg
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I received the Ultrashield Full Containment seat with "Bonneville" Halo today :cheers:
Pics to follow.
Steve.
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OK, just a few quick pics of the new seat.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/haloseat.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/SeatBack.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/SeatLabel.jpg)
...now I need to figure out how to get this thing mounted in the cage.
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...and a few more pics of the seat placed in the cage. I now have some ideas about how to effectively mount the seat to the cage. (plywood and duct tape are not part of the plan).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1043.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1042.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1044.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1045.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1041.jpg)
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OK - here is what I've come up with so far for an upper seat mounting support. I will use another piece of 1" square tubing to span the 2 vertical pieces, and then weld a bracket to the 3rd piece, which will bolt to the aluminum flange on the back of the seat.
Please feel free to tell me what you think of this idea.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1172.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1179.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1180.jpg)
Thanks for looking.
Steve.
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I'd really like the look of a diagonal from the bottom passenger's side up into the top drivers side corner, I have a thing for triangles though.
How heavy wall is the 1" RHS?
Regards
jon
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The square tube is 0.062" wall. I could use 1-5/8 round tube (0.134" wall), but I'm not convinced that high rigidity is desired right behind my head.
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I am certainly willing to entertain any/all ideas before making the installation "permanent".
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I like it Steve!!! :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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OK - I got some more work done over the weekend, fabbing the "down" bars from the main hoop to the dash bar. These were the most complex bends and notches I've done so far (3D and with multiple angles). It took quite a bit of test fitting and "sneaking up" on the final lengths to get these bars fitted, but I think they turned out pretty nice.
As far as I can figure, the rest of the bars will be straight, or only have some simple bends.
Next up will be another dash bar, a bar across the top of the windsheild, and continuing the "cage within a cage" section.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1203.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1204.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1205.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1207.jpg)
The headrest support bars are pending approval by the SCTA technical committee, before being welded in place.
Thanks for looking.
Steve.
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Steve looking great. :cheers:
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Nice Mater poster. Cage is looking real good too.
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Steve, did I miss a post somewhere, Whats the plan for the front halo bar?
Lookin good.
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Mater is right at home around here.
As far as the front halo bar... Early in the build, I bent up a "U" shaped halo bar that I intended to use at that time. The legs of the U would weld to the main hoop, and the squared off U would encircle the inside of the roofline. Then I planned to use 2 bars which would tie in this halo to the dash bar.
As I thought about it more, and looked at other cages, I decided that it was better to bend up some bars to run in 1 piece from the dash bar to the main hoop. These bars will be tied together with another dash bar, above the existing dash bar, and an upper bar near the top of the windshield. I will then use tubular gussets to strengthen the intersections of these tubes.
It will be similar to Tony's cage design in the Camaro and Gregg's cage in his Rampage. I am borrowing heavily from other good looking designs.
Steve.
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I guess I'll just keep adding tubes and gussets until I run out of tubing.
:mrgreen:
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Yep, we borrowed our design from just about everyone. Use up your tubong then get a little more. :-D
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Very nice looking cage, Cap'n. That's similar to what I had originally envisioned. I really like your cage within a cage.
I'm considering doing a diagonal cross-bar from the passenger's side front to the driver's side rear, above the driver's head. Are you doing any kind of diagonal bracing across the top of your halo bar?
Steve.
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If I could figure out how to post images on this forum, I could show you a great cage someone built.
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I post all of my photos to my photobucket account. It's the easiest way I have found. Photobucket hosts all of the images for free. Then you simply copy and paste the "img" link from the photobucket site into your message here.
I'd recommend starting a photobucket account. It's easy and free.
Steve.
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Steve, Not yet, the car is complete, for now, we run in C/GALT at ECTA at Ohio. Our cage is plenty stout for the speeds my wife is currently running. Upgrades will come as the dollars do. :?
Tauruck, if you look at the bottom of the post page you will see "Additional Options."when you click it you will see ATTACH:, click browse find your photo and pick open and it will go. be sure the the pic is not to big or it won't go.
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I got a couple more tubes notched, fitted, and tacked into place after work and before dinner.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1209_01.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1210.jpg)
I'm booked tomorrow evening, but might be able to get another one tacked in on Wednesday.
Steve.
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Thanks guys. I do have a Photobucket account. I'll give it a go.
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Here's a cool cage I found somewhere on Google. It has that extra protection around the head area. Steve, your work looks good. IMO it's better not to rush. It's coming along nicely.
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Steve,
Cage is looking VERY nice.
I'm considering doing a diagonal cross-bar from the passenger's side front to the driver's side rear, above the driver's head.
Steve.
You might think about doing something like this:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/67.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/68.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/65.jpg)
Looks sorta complicated but I like it.
Keep up the good work.....You're getting there.
Gregg
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I thought I'd post a few pics to show the current state of the roll cage. By the end of January, the cage needs to be welded into the truck, have the rear support bars welded in place, and get the roof of the truck welded back together.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1249.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1251.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1252.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1254.jpg)
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Wow, looks great., but isn't building in outside of the "truck" cheating? It looks way to easy :-D
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The tough part is lifting it in and out of the truck for test fitting purposes. :-o
It's a snug fit, and it's pretty darn heavy.
I'm guessing that it's in the 300# + range right now, and the dash has been "dimpled" for clearance of the A-pillar bars when installing and removing. With any luck, the next time it goes into the cab of the truck will be the last time it goes into the cab of the truck.
Steve.
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Looks good Steve.
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More bars than Milwaukee!
I'd feel quite safe in either one of these.
Well done, guys!
Chris
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Steve, the cage looks great!
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Steve,
Since you are getting close to mating your cage into the truck for keeps I have a suggestion regarding the plates that you will weld to the truck structure. The rules call for a 1/4 inch plate, which I , and many others, contend it just asking for the 1/4 plate to shear its way through the .035 body metal in a roll over. I know that you have replaced many of the interior body panels with .062 which is a great plus. What I have done on a car that I am putting a cage in right now is to start with a 1/8 inch plate that is much larger than the required area/periferal dimensions as defined by the rule book and then add an aditional 1/8 plate to the rule book required size on top of that and this is the plate that the cage is welded to. This gets you a couple of things. 1) You can form the 1/8 plate to fit into corners and over edges and it will better tie the cage support plate into the cars structure. 2) Welding 1/8 to /.039 ( the car I am doing is a Porsche 914 and the body parts are 1 mm) is much easier and the weld quality is better plus then welding the final 1/8 plate to the sub plate is a snap. I discussed this with Kiwi Steve, the SCTA inspector for cages and he says that this approach exceeds the rule book requirement. It is obviously double work but personally it just makes a lot more sense to me and the cage I am doing is for a close friend and I don't want to compromise his safety.
Rex
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Rex - the approach you describe sounds similar to what I'm trying to achieve. In the front section, between the "frame rail" and the rocker panel, there is 1/8" thick steel sheet already in place. The foot-plates for the cage are 1/4", as required by the rules. the fit at those locations is pretty good between the 1/4" and the 1/8" steel (both surfaces are flat), and there is a lot of reinforcement in that area. I agree with your analysis, it's not a good idea to weld 1/4" directly to the 0.060" if possible.
I hadn't previously considered the possibility of using 2 thicknesses of 1/8" steel to achieve the 1/4" overall thickness however.
At the rear section (intersection of rear floor and inner "cab corners", I have repaired the previous rust with overlapping sections of 0.062" thick pieces). My intention is to weld the 1/4" foot plates onto the cage first, and use 1/8" thick material to tie the 1/4" to the 0.062" material in this rear area, where the curvature is more difficult to match.
With a little bit of torch and hammer work, the 1/8" steel is fairly easy to beat back into the corners of the truck cab structure, as you have described.
Even though the existing record for the class I'm chasing is under 110 mph, I have dreams of running even faster in years to come. Safety First!!!
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PS - I have always wanted a Porsche 914.
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Steve,
Will say it once more.....Cage is looking VERY, VERY nice. You do good work. :cheers:
My chassis guy originally had done the anchor plates on my cage out of 1/8".
When we took it to Maxton to have Joe Timney look it over, the only thing he found wrong were the plates and he said they needed to be 1/4". Another 1/8" plate was added so I should be good to go.
If you look closely at the 1st picture at the top of this page (post #285), you can just make out the passenger side front plate.
Your getting there!
Gregg
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More bars than Milwaukee!
Chris
Chris,
That right there my friend is some funny Chit!!! :-D :-D :-D
I'd feel quite safe in either one of these.
Well done, guys!
Chris
Many thanks for the kind words. I know I will feel safe in mine and it looks like Steve will feel the same in his.
Gregg
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You may want to consider painting the areas of the cockpit that will not be reachable before you put the roof back on. They are alot easier to get to beforehand. Salt and high humidity will eventually find any exposed metal. Plus it makes for a much neater appearance.
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Good thinking, regarding the paint before putting th roof back together.
Steve.
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I didn't get as much done as I wanted over the weekend, but when do we ever???
I got the seat mounting brackets and lower belt mounting brackets worked out. Here are some pics...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1257.jpg)
The seat "pan" is secured with 4 flat-head grade 8 bolts which are countersunk into aluminum stringer washers (boat-rigging stuff) to spread the load. On the underside, 2" x 1/8" steel mounting tabs are welded directly to the roll cage structure.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1255.jpg)
The offset bolt pattern was necessary so that the rear mounting points would clear the under-seat bars.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1267.jpg)
The mounting bracket for the lap belts is located along a 45 degree line, intersecting the center of the belt openings in the seat.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1269.jpg)
The width of the lap belt mounting bracket match the width of the seat.
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At the upper side of the seat frame, in the headrest area, I used 2 more 1/8" thick steel brackets welded to the cage, and secured with the same type of flat head grade 8 bolts countersunk into stringer washers.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1258.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1263.jpg)
These brackets include an intentional bend. My intention here is that if there were a hard impact, that the bent brackets would provide an opportunity for the bracket to continue bending, absorbing some of the energy associated with a hard hit.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1266.jpg)
I hope I never get the opportunity to test this theory.
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Nice work Steve and well thought out. :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Thank you, Peter. This website makes it possible for newbies like me to get started in the right direction, and hopefully stay on path. I've had a nearly lifelong dream of going to Bonneville. Without the ability to get ideas from other likeminded folks, "borrow" techniques from them, and just generally bounce ideas around, this would remain just a dream.
As it stands now, I have a pretty tight timeline that needs to be adhered to if I am to hit the salt in 2013. I fully intend to do so, so I need to keep cracking at it.
I think that posting pics and getting feedback on this forum helps keep me moving forward, as well.
Thanks again,
Steve.
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I am not a race car builder but have some experience building ultralight aircraft. Whenever I see someone mention using Grade 8 fasteners I question the choice. Grade 8 fasteners have virtually NO elasticity. They will not bend when stressed they just snap. They are a big no/no in building airplanes for that reason. Grade5 or AN are safer.
Jim
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Potential trick question - at what stress level do you expect a grade 8 fastener to snap? How about a grade 5 fastener?
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Lets throw some more in the mix. How about in single shear or doudle shear? :-D
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Very nice work as always Steve, enjoying your build.
I don't know the math but those bolts will stand up to anything those brackets can throw at them.
Cheers
jon
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I almost always use Gr. 5 because they're tougher than the base material in most applications and they are a little more malleable. Much more of a problem are the counterfeit bolts in all grades that don't come close to the required specs. They're even made so they appear to be AN or MIL spec. :-o :-o :x
Pete
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I'm just having a little fun with the bolt grades and material properties discussion. This is an age-old debate (grade 5 vs. grade 8). Peter, you are correct regarding the toughness of the bolts. You are speaking of toughness in the defined metallurgical context (ability to absorb energy when an impact load is applied), not in the "World's Toughest Man" context.
In this application, I chose to use the flat heads so they could be countersunk into the washers. At the 4 mounting locations on the seat bottom, I wanted to have as smooth a seating surface as possible. These are "Holo Krome" made in the USA grade 8 bolts. I trust that they will meet the minimum ultimate tensile requirements of 150,000 psi. Shear strength is directly related to tensile strength. Grade 5 hardware requires a minimum UTS of 120,000 psi, so can be expected to have a proportionally lower shear strength.
Toughness is generally a trade-off between ultimate tensile strength (UTS) and %elongation before failure for most steels. (Disclaimer for materials with ductile-to-brittle transition temperatures that might be encountered). No such temperatures are expected in Wendover, Utah during the summer or autumn months.
Grade 8 = stronger. Grade 5 = tougher.
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SteveM;
There is "more to the story" that just the fastener grade. "Grade 8" or "Grade 5" is only a general guide to the choice of a bolt. While the SAE grades are specified as to their properties, many--if not most-- manufacturers have little quality control in place so the actual properties of the bolts can vary over a wide range. When you receive a fastener with no threads, but nicely plated & packaged, you have to question if that manufacturer has any quality control at all. :?
There are a few manufacturers whose commercial bolts I'd trust-- SPS, Holo-Chrome, and Allen make good stuff.
If you want a fastener whose properties are very well specified and produced unded rigid quality control, look to the aerospace industry. Those fasteners are really expensive but they are strong and reliable. If your life depended on a fastener, you wouldn't want to buy it from just any hardware store. If you are careful and well-informed you can find some excellent hardware on the surplus market at decent prices. I'd suggest having a look at Carol Smith's book on fasteners. There are very good reasons that an F-16 or a 787 isn't held together with Ace Hardware bolts. For non-critical applications, AH's stuff is just fine, though.
One final thought-- even the finest fasteners can be ruined by being mis-applied.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Steve,
I am with you regarding bolts specifically socket head capscrews. You are specifying Holo Khrome as the manufacture so they are USA made and although they do meet the strength requirements to be "Grade 8" but because of the material and the processes that they go through they far exceed any "standard" Grade 8 hex bolt in toughness and fatigue. I am a big user of SHCS and have been since I was designing machine tools at Pratt and Whitney 45 years ago.
Looking at your cage build I have come to the conclusion, and you may have stated earlier in your build thread, that you have made a CAD or Solid Works drawing of your cage as I am impressed that you can pretty much manufacture your cage parts more or less "off site" at your place of employment and then bring them to your shop and assemble into such a nice looking fabrication. I, regretfully, am a relic of the cut and fit age, shop engineering, and if I had made one of my "pencil CAD" drawings of the cage I am working on I still could not have been able to as accurately detail the individual tubes as I assume you have. I have to say I am impressed .
Rex
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No CAD drawings here or solid modeling programs, just some graph paper, pencil, and an HP-15C calculator. I'm a metallurgical engineer by profession - not sure if that helps or hurts, but I like to think that I have a decent understanding of how metals behave. Holo-Krome bolts are probably not as good as some aero-space stuff, but I have ready access to these, and don't have ready access to aero stuff. I feel pretty good about this "build", and hearing that other racers think the cage looks good instills more confidence.
The eight grade 8 fasteners holding the seat in place should do a fine job - that's my personal opinion, and would be my professional opinion as well.
Thank you very much for the kind words, Rex. Don't be fooled by the pics, plenty of parts get modified or finalized in my garage. I spend a lot of time sweeping up grinding grit and making sure that no metal shavings get tracked into the house. As they say - if Mama ain't happy, nobody's happy.
My wife is very supportive of my hobby - I'm a lucky man.
Steve.
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Steve,
Glade to hear you are wearing out some 1/2 round files too!!
Rex
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At the upper side of the seat frame, in the headrest area, I used 2 more 1/8" thick steel brackets welded to the cage, and secured with the same type of flat head grade 8 bolts countersunk into stringer washers.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1258.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1263.jpg)
These brackets include an intentional bend. My intention here is that if there were a hard impact, that the bent brackets would provide an opportunity for the bracket to continue bending, absorbing some of the energy associated with a hard hit.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1266.jpg)
I hope I never get the opportunity to test this theory.
Steve,
I really like the way you attached the top of the seat and it looks to be safe in the event of an incident (good thinking).
I was waiting to see how you were going to do your mounts before I did mine.
Since we have been share ideas, I am going to do something similar to my seat mount so I can get rid of the 1/4" plates that are there now.
As usual, good job and keep up the good work,
Gregg
P.S.
Many Thanks P.J.
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I dropped the cage back into the Rampage for what I hope is the second-to-last time on Monday evening. Here's a pic from the "Professional Idiot, Closed Garage, Do Not Attempt" category.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/cageonhoist.jpg)
I made an extension for the lifting arm of my cherry-picker hoist to allow the cage to be set in place. Without the arm extension, the legs hit the center support of the rotisserie before the cage gets into position.
My short-term plan is to tack the rear feet onto the cage, contour the base plates to match the floorpan, then pull the whole cage out one last time for painting. I plan to paint the cage on Saturday. If I have enough time allocated, I'll also paint the inside of the passenger's compartment before setting the cage back in for final welding.
Steve.
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PS - thanks for the support, Greg. As you know, I have taken a lot of ideas from your cage construction to get mine this far.
If there's anything I can do to help, just say the word. If you want to make up some templates of brackets you might need, I'd be happy to cut them out for you.
Steve.
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Keep up the good work! That cage look great!
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PS - thanks for the support, Greg. As you know, I have taken a lot of ideas from your cage construction to get mine this far.
If there's anything I can do to help, just say the word. If you want to make up some templates of brackets you might need, I'd be happy to cut them out for you.
Steve.
Steve,
Many thanks for the offer on the brackets but I'm going to have my chassis guy do it.
I have been waiting on my tubular control arms since last October and hopefully (fingers crossed) they will be finished and to me in a couple of weeks. The control arms, tubular K-member and rear axle will go to my chassis guy for powder coating and I'll get him to do the brackets then.
The delay in the control arms has put me behind schedule on my truck (still up on jack stands with no front end under it) as I did not want to
"beef-up" the factory stamped k-member and control arms. I still have alot of work left to do and just keep plugging away.
Also, back at ya....If there is anything I can do for you, please let me know.
Gregg
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This weekend, the cage is getting yanked out for painting (light machinery gray color).
Steve.
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I like the way it looks in Ford 8N gray...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/photo4.jpg)
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Great looking job, Steve!!! Sure nice to be able to build it on the "bench" and then install.
Rex
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Great looking job, Steve!!! Sure nice to be able to build it on the "bench" and then install.
Rex
Absolutely - you can get at all sides of the welds AND get a sharp coat of paint on all sides.
Let's hope you never have a reason to see if it works! :wink:
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Great looking cage, my pet peave is looking in a car and having the cage "fogged" with areas missing paint.
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As other have said:
Great looking job, Steve!!!
Gregg
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Hi Steve
Looks like a kit car build it on the bench and just put it together like a Erector set.
Very nice job and good color too.
Don
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The cage (or parts of it) have probably been in and out of the truck 20 times, making sure of all the fitment details. The "next" time should be the "last" time.
I have to thank the contributors of this board for the excellent advice regarding cutting the roof off the truck to ease the cage construction. The roof has probably been off and on 10 times. Those Clecos have paid for themselves many times over.
Being able to completely remove the cage from the truck for full welding has been indispensable. I don't know how I could have welded all of the difficult-to see seams with the cage installed in the truck. Thanks to everyone who suggested this approach!!!
Next on my list is to get some fire-proof caulking on the cab seams, paint the inside of the truck's cab (except for the locations where the cage feet will be welded, and get the cage welded in place.
Steve.
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Steve, the chassis looks great. :cheers:
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Steve:
Nice work. Looks great. Your attention to detail will pay dividends. I have enjoyed following your build and I have learned a few things too.
Good luck and keep chipping away at the list.
Bill
:cheers:
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I love it Steve!!!
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Thank you, guys. The machine shop is virtually done with the engine machine work (we all know how that goes), then I've got to get onto the serious and difficult details of selecting a turbo to work with the displacement, cyl head, injection pump, intercooler, intake, etc.
I'm moving into new ground in terms of my knowledge, hoping to learn as much as possible as quickly as possible about getting this little engine to make the needed power at the needed rpms.
There are about a million things to get done between now and September, I just need to keep clicking them off.
Steve.
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I just picked up this somewhat rare (but not impossible to find) "ABL" intake manifold. This intake has the D shaped ports which match the AAZ cylinder head I'm using.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/ABLintake_zps4fc947b1.jpg)
It's a cute little guy. For reference purposes, that's an 8-1/2" x 11" piece of copy paper in the foreground. I have to use my imagination to visualize how this little intake can flow enough to push my Rampage over 100 mph.
The plan is to modify the upper portion of this intake to work with the not-yet-purchased turbo setup.
Since the AAZ engine was never offered in the USA, getting the right combination of parts can be a bit of a challenge.
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That looks nice. Those Audi motors crank out good HP using turbos. They are very popular in my neck of the woods. I'm sure you'll get great Hp from it.
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There are a number of people (mainly in Europe) who use these small VW / Audi diesels to make very good power. The Finns in particular seem to be adept at maxxing out small diesel performance. Maybe it's the long winters spent in the workshop.
Anyway, I turned my attached garage into the most rudimentary of paint booths last night, in order to paint the cab portion of the Rampage, before putting the cage in for the last time.
The good news - success... My wife said she never smelled a whiff of paint in the house, which means that I now have implied consent to paint in the garage again.
Now for a few pics.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1300_zps190f9d68.jpg)
My friend/helper/crewmember Darrell, doing some prep work before painting. His quote of the evening - "Nothing smells like Prep-Sol, other than Prep-Sol."
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1298_zps1a5127c0.jpg)
"Before" pic of the front of the cab, with some rattle-can primer in places.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1302_zps2810f189.jpg)
After
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1303_zpscbbece44.jpg)
After
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1301_zpsac3287ba.jpg)
After
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1304_zps133298df.jpg)
After.
Sharp eyes may notice that I neglected to mask off the areas of the floor where the cage will be welded. That means a little extra grinding before the welding can begin.
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It's working out well Steve! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
I like the light color. It's so much easier to work on and drive when you can see in the interior.
Pete
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It's working out well Steve! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
I like the light color. It's so much easier to work on and drive when you can see in the interior.
Pete
Thank you, Pete. I agree with you; the light color is going to be nice. The cage is now installed "permanently". I have some clean-up to do and some more welding before the roof goes on for good. Then I'll touch up the paint on the cage and interior.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Installedcage_zps589c8367.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Cagefootfront_zps337dee67.jpg)
All 4 of the foot plates are "burned in" like this. There are 2 more attachment points on the upper kick panel / dash area. I still need to do the down bars from the back of the cage into the bed, then the roof can go back on.
I don't remember who was the first to suggest cutting the roof off to fit the cage, but it was invaluable advice!!!
Steve.
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Now might be the time to read a post in the Target 550 website about a special paint.
http://www.target550.com/gallery/159_paint_plus/159_009_jpg.html
FREUD
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That stuff seems more technologically advanced than the $12/quart tractor paint I've been using so far. :-D :-D
It's now time for me to cut and fit the "down bars" from the top of the main hoop down into the bed of the truck.
I'm planning to run them at 45 degrees up from the surface of the bed. Can anyone think of a reason why I should use a different angle?
Steve.
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Steve, It's looking great man. I really like what you've done and those welds on foot plates look very nice. Cutting the roof off was a smart move. This is going to be so cool.
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Steve,
Regarding the "down bars" I would suggest that you make them connect with some part of the bed that has some load carrying structure or maybe where some part of the rear suspension connects to the chassis.
Rex
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Steve, You said the truck ran VW components. Was it a deal between Dodge and VW? We had similar mini pickups here built by VW that were called Jettas.
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Good thinking Rex.
I just went out and double checked. There is a stout (at least by Rampage standards) cross-member just behind the 45 degree intersection. My plan is to lay a good-sized piece of 1/8" steel sheet across the bed at that location (approx 18" x 36"). That piece will be welded to the bed on the topside, and through-bolted to the crossmember underneath. Then, there will be 2 additional 1/8" thick feet for the bottom of the down bars, for a total of 1/4" thickness of new steel, plus the 0.040" or so thickness of the sheetmetal bed, plus another 0.060" or so for the crossmember.
Hopefully, I can get the tubes cut tomorrow afternoon.
Steve.
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When Dodge first came out with the L-bodies (Omni, Horizon, 024, TC3), they had not yet developed the 2.2 Liter Chrysler 4-banger. The early models used 1.7L VW gasoline engines, and either a VW manual or automatic transmission. Some used a 1.6L Peugeot engine, but those were pretty rare, and not very desirable. No VW diesels were ever offered from the factory, but it's a short leap from a 1.7L VW gasser to a 1.5 or 1.6L diesel (same block geometry).
Then in '82 or so, the Chrysler 2.2L engine debuted, and Dodge began phasing out the VW powertrains as the 2.2's came online.
The good news is that the motor mount locations never changed on the chassis, only the bracketry changed from the engines and transmissions. That makes it fairly straightforward to swap drivetrains, if you have all the right brackets.
Steve.
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Hey Steve,
As to the braces for the roll cage the rule book states "On unitized construction and nonocque cars, the roll cage structure and braces shall have 1/4-in. thick support pads on the top and bottom of the floor (or sill), in a sandwich construction and shall be of sufficient area to support an impact load equal to the weight of the car."
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Everything I've seen indicates that the portion of the rulebook you have quoted applies to bolt-in cages (the "sandwich" type construction). Weld-in cages don't need the support pads on the underside.
If I'm not right, I hope someone will set me straight. :-o :-o :oops: :oops:
Although I didn't request a written ruling, I have seen photos of, and read descriptions here, of folks using 2 thicknesses of 1/8" steel to meet the 1/4" thickness rule. Particularly when forming a foot pad to the floorpan, the individual layers of 1/8" steel are much easier to form than 1/4" thick material.
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I have been working with Kiwi Steve, the SCTA inspector for this kind of thing, regarding using a double 1/8 plate in place of the specified 1/4 plate. The plan being as Steve is doing to make the "base" 1/8 plate much larger than the required 1/4 inch plate size and then making an additional 1/8 plate that is the required perimeter dimension that the cage is then welded to. Per Kiwi Steve this approach meets and exceeds the SCTA 1/4 inch plate requirement. Plus it makes a lot more sense as just bolting or welding a square 1/4 inch plate to a piece of .040 sheet metal is just asking for a nice square hole poked through the sheet metal.
Rex
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Thanks, Rex. Your explanation "reads" better than what I posted before, and expresses what I'm trying to do very well.
I could probably omit the step of bolting through the 1/8" sheet, through the bed and into the rear crossmember, but I'd like to tie it all together.
Essentially, it will be welded and bolted.
Steve.
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Nothing wrong with redundancy.
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I'm wearing 3 pairs of underpants right now. :cheers: :cheers:
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Nothing wrong with redundancy.
I'm wearing 3 pairs of underpants right now. :cheers: :cheers:
LOL!!! :-D
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I'm wearing 3 pairs of underpants right now. :cheers: :cheers:
TMI Steve!
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Steve,
You probably knew I was going to chime in on this. :-D
How about what my guy did for my Rampage?
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/71.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/72.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/73.jpg)
This setup has 2 functions: the attachment point for the down tubes as well as the pushbar / parachute mount.
Just a thought.
Gregg
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Gregg:
Yours looks very stout and well engineered, as always. I'm just trying to make mine a little simpler in terms of fabrication. In your undercarriage photo, the shock mount crossmember is located just ahead of where your down-bars go through the bed.
My plan is to weld and bolt a piece of 1/8" thick steel (approximate dimensions of 18" x 36") between the wheelwells, and right above that shock mount crossmember. My down-bars will be straight pieces, no bending required. The welding will be done on the topside, and it will be bolted through the bed floor and through that crossmember.
Then the down-bars will weld onto additional feet (maybe 6" x 6") that will be on top of the larger sheet.
It will be easier for me to fabricate, and I think will provide plenty of strength.
I still have a receiver hitch below the tailgate if I need a push-bar. For the time being, no parachute would be needed. I'd look kind of silly dragging a parachute along the ground. :-D :-D
Steve.
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Quick question, Gregg - have you figured out what to do about the rear shock abosorbers after you have done the axle flip?
I'm thinking that I'll need shocks which are about 4" shorter.
Steve.
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Think Estes Model Rocket Chute Steve. :-D
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As a kid, my grandparents lived only a couple of blocks away from me. I can still remember going to her house at the age of 5 or 6, something like that.
We would make parachutes from Kleenex tissue, using small pieces of string for the parachute lines, and those little green army guys tied to the end of the strings. Then we would throw them off the front porch.
I think that a Kleenex parachute and some newspaper twine would be plenty to get my Rampage slowed to a safe speed.
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Steve,
Your plan seems very simple and workable. :cheers:
To funny about the parachute. :-D
My plans are not definite on the rear shocks. I'm in agreement with you on the approx 4" shorter.
Gregg
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Yup been there. My neighbour started that parachute thing. His big brother was Airborne so we all had ambitions. Lionel Smith, you chicken!!! You sold us down the river. :-D
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Steve,
Should have included this in my previous post and something to think about.
I emailed Mike Manghelli (White Goose Bar VW Truck) about the rear air bags he is using and got this answer:
What kind of rear air bag shocks did you use?.....Really cool setup.
Ride Tech, www.ridetech.com We won them at a club banquet, so the chassis was modified to make them fit.
I thought I had saved the pic but can't seem to find it. If I can find a pic of his setup I'll post it.
C'Ya,
Gregg
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At one time, I had Air Ride Technology bags on my '92 Dakota. They made a big difference in the behavior of that truck when towing my jet boat.
I also had a '63 Nova at another time, and used some S-10 air shocks on the back to compensate for sagging springs. Those worked pretty well, and were also short, although I can't remember how short.
The S-10 air shocks might be a possible solution.
Someone on another board sent me a suggestion to use the stock length shocks, but to re-make the upper mount, attaching it to the roll cage down bars. That's another possibility.
Steve.
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Early 70s 2wd front Chevy pickup shocks are short.
I have used them on spring over conversions.
Don
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Eureka.....Found the WGB air bag shock pic. Was not on my PC but on my laptop (which I rarely use).
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/WGBRearShocks_zps5f43edec.jpg)
I think I remember that this was an early iteration of Mike's truck and he did his axle flip after this pic was taken.
You could mount them kinda like Mike did. If there is room, attach one to the front and one to the rear crossmembers.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/72.jpg)
I'm leaning heavily on doing something similiar.
As I said yesterday, just a thought.
Gregg
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The air ride bag/shocks look good. And Don, thanks for the heads-up on the early '70's pickup shocks.
Steve.
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Speedway has a rather wacky selection of shocks of varying sizes and lengths. These are similar to what I wound up using on my MGB conversion when I got rid of the lever shocks out back -
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pro-Small-Body-Steel-Shock-5-Inch-Stroke-Comp-1-Reb-1,851.html
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Those shocks look like they might have some promise, I need to do a little more research on the correct length.
In the meantime, I got the rear bars welded into the cage and bed...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1311_zps58e81ad4.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1323_zps9658ac9f.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1314_zpse395f480.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1317_zpsc8cadb69.jpg)
I set the roof back on.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1318_zpsbef3792a.jpg)
I'm looking for some input on whether or not these "down" bars need to be gusseted to the main hoop. If I need to gusset them, it's going to be a bit of a PITA to work out the intersection of the gusseted area with the back window.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve.
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Steve,
I will suggest adding an "X" brace to the "down" bars. This would add alot of strength and eliminate(?) the need for having gussets at the top and/or the bottom.
Larry in Scottsdale, AZ
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Really nice job Steve. I like the straight bars as opposed to curved. I always feel that the curves just preset the failure points.
The whole thing looks really good with the roof on.
Pete
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Steve,
What a nice job!! I agree with Larry you need to either add a diagonal or even better and "X" to the rear bars for increase torsional stiffness.
Rex
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My initial concern was whether it needed to be gusseted to the main hoop in order to comply with the rulebook.
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"X" for sure. It's coming along nicely Steve. That is some really neat welding, I really like the work. :cheers:
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Hey Steve, I'm blue in the face here from holding my breath. Where are the pics brother?. :-D :-D
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...One piece at a time. I got two of the "plate" style gussets welded from the down bars to the main hoop, and one of the bars that will form the X has been fitted and tacked.
The other 2 bars, which will form the other leg of the X, will be cut this afternoon, with the goal of having the complete X welded by tomorrow night.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/rearxbrace_zpsb207c17f.jpg)
Steve.
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Steve, I will never use the word overkill when it comes to safety, It looks like the gussets may cause problems down the road. Moving the mounting points of the X braces closer to the attachment points for the down bars would increas the stiffness and ease the install of the back "glass"
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I'd have to agree with Capt. Cage is awesome though. Looks like your roof is going to be a lot easier to put back on than mine is! Looking good Steve. Keep it up! :cheers:
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Nice work Steve. I hope I never rushed you?. Fitting the rear window on a pickup is a real lousy job. Do your rules exclude a clevis setup on attaching the rear braces?.
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I definitely gave the ease of "glass" installation consideration, but really couldn't come up with a good, clean solution. My plan with these gussets is to have no "glass" above the gussets. There will just be a sheet-metal filler piece which will reside between the top surface of the flat gusset and the window mounting flange. On the underside of the gusset, I plan to make another small flange that the rear glass will be attached to by rivets and/or adhesive.
If I had the opportunity to do the whole cage again, I would probably move the main hoop forward a few inches, to allow for gusset clearance inside the passenger compartment. However, at this point, I think I'm going to have to live with the difficulty of installing the rear glass.
In terms of the position of the X brace, I still have the ability to move it "uphill" or "downhill". It is only tacked in place. I know what you mean about giving the cage the maximum amount of support. Currently, there is about 3" of tubing from the top of the X brace to the bottom of the plate gusset, and about 10" on the bottom side. The X bars are set up to be at 45 degrees relative to the down bars.
Steve.
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I appreciate the input as well as the "push". I have to keep moving forward on this project in order to get it done.
I have never seen detachable rear support bars - I would definitely have to get clearance from the SCTA before doing something like that.
I may have been able to get away without using the plate gussets, but didn't want to take the chance. I'd rather spend a little more time fitting the rear glass.
Steve.
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Steve, there are componets out there to fab up removable bars but they should only be used in the correct loading areas IMO. Your stuff is looking real good. keep at it. :cheers:
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Steve, what I had in mind was marking the area at the top of the cage where you would attach the braces. Fit the window and mark the Lexan. Cut your holes lower and bigger than you need and slide the brace set through those holes. You can then attach the clevises (Male) to the brace set and offer it up to where you marked the hoop and tack on the female set. Takes a bit of work but I think you know what I'm getting at. Once you're happy that the window fits and the angles are exactly right you can seperate the clevis setup and finish welding the ends. After that it's a case of making two donuts that slide over the braces so that when the window's in place they cover the larger holes. The clevises can be welded together if the rules don't allow their use. The other way is to do the same deal with pipe but slide the window over before you weld. You're done already but maybe someone else could use the idea. No hijack intended.
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OK - after emails with SCTA regarding the gussets, I decided to cut the plate gussets off, and weld in the X. I realize that it might not be as stout as it could be, but this still "may" be the stoutest built '84 Rampage in existence today.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1372_zps30efc2cf.jpg)
Steve.
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It looks better IMO and I don't think it's compromised the structure. You're doing a great job Steve. Power to you.
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Thanks Tauruck.
Yesterday, I picked up the engine parts that I dropped off at the machine shop a while back. Everything looks great. The shop did an excellent job of balancing all the rods to the pistons, setting all the bearing clearances, polishing the crank, setting up the head, etc., etc.
Here are some pics...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1379_zps98cb494c.jpg)
Reworked stock rods, new small end bushings, ARP bolts installed, resized big ends, and individually weight matched to the corresponding pistons.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1377_zps2791f25c.jpg)
Matching pistons, sized for each bore, and balanced in conjunction with the rods.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1382_zps481b2b07.jpg)
The stock, forged crank only needed to be cleaned up and have the journals polished.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1378_zpse91328a1.jpg)
For reference purposes, the bore sizes are noted on the piston box.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1385_zps0713fb35.jpg)
The assembled head
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1387_zpsc1f83d18.jpg)
A view into 2 ports, showing the tapered guides, lightly ported bowls, and 7mm stems.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1395_zps23c91fe5.jpg)
The guest of honor, with head studs, main studs, line honed main caps, and fresh intermediate shaft bearings.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1397_zpscfed021d.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1400_zpscfcb27e3.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1402_zps92a13ad2.jpg),
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It all looks great. Funny how ARP rod bolts make you more confident.Good luck with the assembly. :cheers:
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Now your talk'in looks good Mr.M :cheers: Just luv when parts come back from the shop.
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The ARP goodies gave me such a boost, I found the energy to weld the roof back onto the truck today. It's not pretty (yet), but it's all in one piece again, and the Cleco holes have been welded shut as well.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1404_zps295d70f2.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1405_zps5ec8f067.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1403_zps408da2fe.jpg)
Steve
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There's huge work going into your truck Steve and it's coming together very quickly. Well done.
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Dude,
Cage looks really good and I'm sure you are glad to have the roof back in place. Motor parts look equally good as well.
Keep pushing.....You're getting there. :cheers:
Gregg
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Thanks guys. I took another step forward today, ordering a Garrett GT2056 turbo.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/default_images/turbogroup/catalog_pdf/GT2056_751578_2_1.pdf
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It's good that you found the right match for your motor. Takes the guess work out of the equation. 8-)
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While you are there, you might like to put a bearing ball under each stud, before you torque it in the block.
It keeps the end of the stud from bulging the cylinder, and it compresses the iron toward the deck, instead of stretching the deck upwards. Just enough ball to keep the stud from bottoming in the threads.
I am enjoying your project, thanks!
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Good tip, Jim. That's one I hadn't known before. I try to learn something new every day. A lot of days don't work out like that, but today just did.
Steve.
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Yesterday afternoon was like Christmas Morning, when I have to pay for all the gifts. :-D
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/GT2056inlet_zpse3005058.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/GT2056exhaust_zps5bcb5234.jpg)
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Shweeet!. Nice one Steve. Have one on me brother. You're going like a Boeing now. :cheers:
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Don't know much about turbos, but I do know this - That should put a little bit more air in it!
Don't you just love shiny new race parts? :-D
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There's nothing quite as cool (or expensive) than shiny new racing parts, right out of the box.
The Rampage is back on its side, on the rotisserie, so that I can weld up a few areas before prepping and painting the underside of the floorpan. Then it's time for the suspension assembly onto the truck, and it's going back on the ground. I'm ordering the suspension bushings today.
Then I'm moving onto the driveline mockup (including the turbo). I'll be fabricating an exhaust header to put the turbo where I need it.
I just bought a secondhand intercooler and plumbing, mainly because the price was so low that it was worth the $$$ just for the tubing, silicone couplings, and clamps. I'll sell off that intercooler and buy an air-to-water unit.
Gotta keep moving forward.
Steve.
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I could not pass all these goodies up for $100!
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Intercoolerandtubing_zpsc71d0626.jpg)
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I could not pass all these goodies up for $100!
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Intercoolerandtubing_zpsc71d0626.jpg)
Park that thing in an ice water tank if you have room Steve.
Sid.
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I'd be interested in the Intercooler Steve.
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Why not just build a water tank around that intercooler?
Pete
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I was planning to buy a purpose built air-to-water intercooler to fit in the area previously occupied by the battery. The idea of putting that I/C into a water tank is interesting, though. That thought had crossed my mind, but I haven't explored it.
I haven't received that stash of parts yet. When I get my hands on them, and work on the layout of the plumbing, I'll have a better idea of the available space.
If I don't use it, you have "dibs" on the I/C, Tman.
Steve.
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Why not just build a water tank around that intercooler?
Pete
Don't give him any ideas! :-D
Thanks Steve, if it works for you that is a heck of a deal.
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Steve, since you have to run a normal cooling radiator, consider the air/air cooler in front of the rad, and downstream an air/water charge cooler where you had planned the original. Ice water tank in the bed of the truck, and its good to go. I used that compound type system on the Merk, and with water spray on the air/air, I found it to be VERY effective.
To keep it simple for this year, just do the air/air, while thinking about what change is next. spray nozzles, air/water etc.
You can't put a value on GOOD AIR
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Hi Stsve
In 70' i bought a set of Carrilo rods and the UPS guy asked why that little box cost just about a grand, so after paying i opened the box and showed him a rod.
He says you put those neat things in a racing engine, i say yes they are the best you can buy looking very special and each in a plastic bag as not to get scratched or dirty
Works of art they were and still are today, the one thing you could put in your engine and not have to touch them other than the rod numbers.
Don
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Steve, since you have to run a normal cooling radiator, consider the air/air cooler in front of the rad, and downstream an air/water charge cooler where you had planned the original. Ice water tank in the bed of the truck, and its good to go. I used that compound type system on the Merk, and with water spray on the air/air, I found it to be VERY effective.
To keep it simple for this year, just do the air/air, while thinking about what change is next. spray nozzles, air/water etc.
You can't put a value on GOOD AIR
Rick:
That thought had crossed my mind - compound intercooling. I was already planning an icewater tank in the bed (igloo cooler), with a livewell type pump circulating icewater to an air/water cooler. Now my mind is swirling.
I need to get the engine/trans/turbo/radiator mocked up in the engine compartment so I can tell where there's any leftover room. It's going to be several weeks before all that is figured out.
Steve.
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this stuff is constantly cirling in my mind. There are so many options. I want to give myself the best chance to be competitive against the existing record, without making my effort overly complex or overly expensive. That's not too much to hope for, is it? :roll:
Steve
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K.I.S.S. Steve.
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Yep. K.I.S.S.
I don't want crap falling off the truck, or have it not run right due to some complex bumfuzzle of my own creation.
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We've been watching your progress, there's a pretty good chance we won't be seeing "crap falling off it" Mate!
Sid.
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this stuff is constantly cirling in my mind. There are so many options. I want to give myself the best chance to be competitive against the existing record, without making my effort overly complex or overly expensive. That's not too much to hope for, is it? :roll:
Steve
What is the existing record?.
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106 mph. A lot of people (none of whom have anything to do with Land Speed Racing) comment that it should be easy. HA! I have to ask them, how many 1.5 Liter diesel trucks do you know of, and how fast can they go?
Steve.
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106 mph. A lot of people (none of whom have anything to do with Land Speed Racing) comment that it should be easy. HA! I have to ask them, how many 1.5 Liter diesel trucks do you know of, and how fast can they go?
Steve.
Yes, the civilians can be quite clueless. We get the same thing with our Production pickup where the record is 165
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I'm predicting it's in the bag. Maybe not on the first run but definitely. Go Steve!!!
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I will count no chicken before it is hatched.
However, I will slather a generous coat of POR 15 on the underside of a Rampage chassis when given the chance.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1411_zps4b36cc06.jpg)
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[/quote]
Yes, the civilians can be quite clueless. We get the same thing with our Production pickup where the record is 165
[/quote]
Guy at work - "105 mph, that's nothing, my F150 can go 120" - Me, taking a look at the record book - "The record for C Production Pickup is 185, you are 65 mph off the pace".
Steve.
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Yes, the civilians can be quite clueless. We get the same thing with our Production pickup where the record is 165
[/quote]
Guy at work - "105 mph, that's nothing, my F150 can go 120" - Me, taking a look at the record book - "The record for C Production Pickup is 185, you are 65 mph off the pace".
Steve.
[/quote]
65 might as well be 200
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Drag racers are the worst! IMHO :roll:
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Steve:
Did you spray or brush the Por15 on. I am getting ready to put my car on the rotissarie and do my floor. I have always brushed it on in the past.
Thanks,
Bill
I will count no chicken before it is hatched.
However, I will slather a generous coat of POR 15 on the underside of a Rampage chassis when given the chance.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1411_zps4b36cc06.jpg)
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Probably the most common comment I've heard from "the others" over the years - "It's easy, all you have to do is change the gearing and you can go as fast as you want....." Ya, right!
Having experienced the journey to both the estacy of decent numbers for equipment run and the agony of broken parts, I have nothing but respect and admiration for anyone who gets any rig to any LSR meet and through the lights at any speed. :cheers:
Ed
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Steve:
Did you spray or brush the Por15 on. I am getting ready to put my car on the rotissarie and do my floor. I have always brushed it on in the past.
Thanks,
Bill
I brushed it on. I was tempted to spray it, but didn't have the guts or experience to spray the POR. I wore head to toe coveralls and rubber gloves. I still got some of the stuff on me. I can't imagine how much I would be wearing if I had sprayed it.
Steve.
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This much maybe? :-D
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LMAO, the boss is wondering why I'm on the floor.........
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There are protective suits that can prevent the Ebola virus from contacting human skin, but I think POR-15 can still get through.
Steve.
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Teaser shot of the bead-blasted and rattle-canned K-frame and lower control arms.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/KframeandArms_zpsfc62107e.jpg)
I've been spending money like I have it to spend (which I don't). I have received all of the Moog control arm bushings, ball joints, and strut rod bushings. I have received the Polybushing rear spring bushings. I have received all of the turbo plumbing goodies that I bought.
Bushing and balljoint installation should be late afternoon/early evening. I like to spend a little "after hours" time at work to get this kind of stuff done.
More pics to follow, later tonight.
My next steps are to get the Rampage off the rotisserie, get the suspension mounted, and get it back on 4 wheels. As always, I'll keep posting pics and try to keep moving forward.
Steve.
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I've been spending money like I have it to spend (which I don't).
Aren't all Racers like this? ??? I know I am :-D
Update sounds and looks good.
Good talking with you yesterday and I look forward to the 16th.
Gregg
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Teaser shot of the bead-blasted and rattle-canned K-frame and lower control arms...
Steve.
Steve, rattle-can paint sounds so cheap :| here in middle Kansas we canodize our parts :-D
keep up the good work
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I have to share my enthusiasm for the rattle-can paint I'm using. It's called Dem-Kote, which is a Grainger house brand. It covers great, goes on smooth, has high gloss, and dries quickly.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEMKOTE-Spray-Paint-6FGH7?BaseItem=1VKA5
We use it on some machinery and parts at work. I ended up buying a case of it for my personal use. All of the suspension components will be this medium machinery gray color, as well as the engine block and some more of the under-hood accessories.
Steve
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Teaser shot of the bead-blasted and rattle-canned K-frame and lower control arms...
Steve.
Steve, rattle-can paint sounds so cheap :| here in middle Kansas we canodize our parts :-D
keep up the good work
That is good, I am going to steal that line!
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Teaser shot of the bead-blasted and rattle-canned K-frame and lower control arms...
Steve.
Steve, rattle-can paint sounds so cheap :| here in middle Kansas we canodize our parts :-D
keep up the good work
That is good, I am going to steal that line!
LMAO and I was thinking the same thing!
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I canodized some bolts and nuts for the suspension last night, but didn't take any photos.
I feel like my project has some good momentum right now. I got the front LCA's rebuilt and ready to install. I got the Poly bushings installed in the rear springs last night, and I got the entire Rampage removed from the rotisserie and put back on jackstands.
A few photos to share...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1421_zps513e2bc2.jpg)
ball joints, control arm bushings, and strut rod bushings.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1419_zps1302dfeb.jpg)
I have gotten into the habit of photographing the part#'s for everything - these photos may come in handy at some point in the future.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1415_zps10435deb.jpg)
all of the poly bushings, new bolts, and new sleeves for the rear leaf springs.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1423_zps91e438c2.jpg)
Canodized LCA's with the new Moog goodies installed.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1425_zps02450366.jpg)
New poly bushings installed in the big end of a rear leaf.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1426_zps01f4cd69.jpg)
After a liberal coating of poly bushing grease.
This poly bushing grease is just about the stickiest, tackiest, most slippery, gummy, get-on-everything substance that I have messed with.
It's another one of those materials which is best described as Gorilla Snot.
Steve.
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For Tman, here are some photos of that intercooler.
Let me know if you are interested. The inlet and outlet are 2-1/2" on the OD.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1427_zps4c2e9f16.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1428_zps129c5709.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1429_zpsdae9619e.jpg)
Steve.
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I like the idea of that grease, what brand is it?
As for the IC, looks like a perfect fit for our car! Let me double check a couple things tonight and will drop you a line. We need to talk bicycles anyway! :cheers:
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Sure thing, Trent. That grease came directly from polybushings.com, as part of the kit for these springs and shackles. It is some seriously tacky stuff.
Our "Tuesday Night Worlds' Championship" racing series starts next week. Hard to believe that it's road racing/criterium season already.
Steve
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Sure thing, Trent. That grease came directly from polybushings.com, as part of the kit for these springs and shackles. It is some seriously tacky stuff.
Our "Tuesday Night Worlds' Championship" racing series starts next week. Hard to believe that it's road racing/criterium season already.
Steve
Yea, I have been up too late all week watching Paris-Nice. Hope to do a slush ride on the monstercross bike this weekend, we need the moisture!
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I have gotten into the habit of photographing the part#'s for everything - these photos may come in handy at some point in the future.
You're probably doing this as well but also write down the year, make, model and part you are getting from other Chryco cars for your Rampage.
Other parts for my Rampage are from Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth cars. Mine list is in my log book for reference.
Gregg
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That grease came directly from polybushings.com, as part of the kit for these springs and shackles. It is some seriously tacky stuff.
Got the same kit and I'll agree.....seriously tacky stuff.
Gregg
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Sure thing, Trent. That grease came directly from polybushings.com, as part of the kit for these springs and shackles. It is some seriously tacky stuff.
Our "Tuesday Night Worlds' Championship" racing series starts next week. Hard to believe that it's road racing/criterium season already.
Steve
So you and Trent are into bike racing?. I shut down shop in July to watch Le Tour.
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I am living proof that USA Cycling will let anyone have a license to race a bicycle. I dabble, but don't devote enough time towards training to be good. My racing age is 45, and I'm a Cat 4 on the road and cyclocross. I don't hold a USAC mountain bike license, but do some local races.
I have a garage & basement & shed full of bikes for the entire family ( TT's, road, cyclocross, and MTB ).
Steve.
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I am 44 and got hooked as a kid seeing the 83 Coors Classic on a family vacation through Colorado. Spent over half my adult life in the bike industry though not currently. I know a lot of hot rodders that are also into bikes, it is the mechanical side of things. When the lakester is done I have all the goodies on the shelf for my first frame building project. A cross bike.
Sure thing, Trent. That grease came directly from polybushings.com, as part of the kit for these springs and shackles. It is some seriously tacky stuff.
Our "Tuesday Night Worlds' Championship" racing series starts next week. Hard to believe that it's road racing/criterium season already.
Steve
So you and Trent are into bike racing?. I shut down shop in July to watch Le Tour.
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If you use 1-5/8 tubing with a .120" wall, it will be heavy.
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If you use 1-5/8 tubing with a .120" wall, it will be heavy.
Crit bike? Holds up to all the crashes~! :-D
I will shoot you a shot of this fine tubing. :cheers:
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Yeah, I just bought a Giant TCR Adcanced, and I'd hate to see it turned into carbon splinters.
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Steve, shoot me your number again, I can not find it in my PMs.
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Yeah, I just bought a Giant TCR Adcanced, and I'd hate to see it turned into carbon splinters.
I had my friend's Specialised bike here for a while. Carbon everything. If it wasn't for the slight vibration from the road you could be fooled you're flying. On Sunday we have the Cape Argus cycle tour. It's the biggest bike race in the world participation wise. I think there will be somewhere close to 35,000 bikes on the road. The course is a tough one and the forecast is for 40kph wind. Good luck to them. The place isn't called the Cape of storms for nothing.
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I have heard of that Cape Argus Tour, and also know of it's reputation of being extremely windy. Wind is a cruel mistress.
Once you have a carbon fiber bicycle, it's hard to go back. I have a carbon Trek Madone that is now my "beater" road bike. The TCR Advanced is super lightweight, stiff, and razor sharp handling. I also recently acquired a carbon fiber Jamis 29'er MTB. It is light years ahead of my previous aluminum Specialized Rockhopper.
We have a team "shop ride" in the morning tomorrow, then I go into work for a while, then home to work on the Rampage suspension later in the afternoon. With any luck, it will be a roller by the end of the weekend!
Steve.
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Steel is real Steve, still riding my 93 Slingshot! Of course that is not a true test.
-
With any luck, it will be a roller by the end of the weekend!
ROCK ON, Rampage Brother :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Gregg
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:cheers: :cheers: Yea wheels is good
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I got her back on the ground, all 4 tires touching pavement. Here's a quick pic documentary - not much text, just some quicky photos, including my 11 year old son helping out.
Steve.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1434_zpsbade2ca7.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1435_zps5c85539f.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1437_zps0689339e.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1439_zps473d373a.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1440_zpsa91d2932.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1446_zpsc2368909.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1447_zpsaa44c4d9.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1450_zps7bec5880.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1451_zps0fc13d13.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1453_zps7746eeea.jpg)
It rained all day long, but then the sun came out around 6:30 or so. A big rainbow was the result. I took it as a sign...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1455_zps6ec12d82.jpg)
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SteveM
Congrats....you have a roller!
Question, how much Pro15 did to take to coat your under body? I ordered two quarts but may need more.
Bill
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I only used 1 quart, and used every last ounce. I could have used a little more, but 2 quarts would have been much too much for me.
It was good to use all of it, I have not had good luck trying to save an open can of POR "for later".
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SteveM
Good to know. I plan in doing under the car and both inside floors. If I have some leftover I do the trunk. You are correct, it does not save well that is if you can get the lid off.
Thanks,
BR
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Looka great Steve!
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Nice one Steve. One more milestone. At least you'll have a dedicated pit crew. Your son must be excited. :cheers:
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Congrats on the roller!
Is that 1st Gen Neon stuff on the front or stock Rampage? Kinda hard to tell from the pics.
Looking forward to Saturday.
Gregg
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The great part of having your son help out and be your pit crew is that it does not have to end when you leave for the salt. Unlike most forms of motorsports, there is no age restriction to be in the pits at Bonneville. He can be involved in every aspect of this sport. By the time he can legally drive, he will be a "Salt Veteran"!
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Congrats on the roller!
Is that 1st Gen Neon stuff on the front or stock Rampage? Kinda hard to tell from the pics.
Looking forward to Saturday.
Gregg
Yes, the struts and springs are from a 1st Gen Neon. They are somewhere in the range of 2.5 - 3 inches shorter than the stock L-body stuff. I am also using the front knuckles/spindles from a '92 (I think) Acclaim. Those knuckles are more HD, in addition to working more like a drop spindle in this application. The distance from the centerline of the drive axle to the lower ball joint is greater on these knuckles. They also use a bolt-in bearing carrier, which is extremely handy in comparison to the press-in bearing design of earlier models.
It's still tough to figure out the ride height. My next move will be to mock up the engine and transmission, which should give a better idea of ride height.
Steve.
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The great part of having your son help out and be your pit crew is that it does not have to end when you leave for the salt. Unlike most forms of motorsports, there is no age restriction to be in the pits at Bonneville. He can be involved in every aspect of this sport. By the time he can legally drive, he will be a "Salt Veteran"!
Yep, he's getting into it pretty deep, and is enjoying the build. It's nice to be able to send him into the engine compartment to get those fasteners that I don't quite feel like bending over and reaching. The ability to use his youth and flexibility are going to pay off in the long run. :-D
Steve
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Tomorrow evening, I'll be dropping the transmission off at our local "guy" who is known for VW 020 transmissions. He's going to check it all out, go through the case, and outfit it with the later model, more heavy duty output flanges.
Gotta keep moving forward.
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Tomorrow evening, I'll be dropping the transmission off at our local "guy" who is known for VW 020 transmissions. He's going to check it all out, go through the case, and outfit it with the later model, more heavy duty output flanges.
Gotta keep moving forward.
I was going to ask you (before we ran out of time) how you got into these things? Maybe you mentioned it once? If so I forgot.
-
It's still tough to figure out the ride height.
I've got a care package that I'm bringing that might change your mind on what you do with ride height. :-D
Gregg
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Now I REALLY can't wait to meet you this weekend.
On a somewhat related note, I may have found a good shock absorber substitute for our rear axles. Searching through the Monroe and Gabriel catalogs, I saw that P/N MA785 (Monroe), and P/N 49304 (Gabriel) are air-adjustable shocks with a compressed length of 9.5", and an extended length of 14".
I'm thinking of buying a pair to see how well they work for adjusting ride height in the rear.
They would require changing to a loop-type lower mount, but that shouldn't be a major issue.
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On a somewhat related note, I may have found a good shock absorber substitute for our rear axles. Searching through the Monroe and Gabriel catalogs, I saw that P/N MA785 (Monroe), and P/N 49304 (Gabriel) are air-adjustable shocks with a compressed length of 9.5", and an extended length of 14".
I'm thinking of buying a pair to see how well they work for adjusting ride height in the rear.
They would require changing to a loop-type lower mount, but that shouldn't be a major issue.
Good detective work! Either of these sound like they would accomplish what we're looking for.
Gregg
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Just an FYI - those shocks are intended to fit '63-'82 Chevy Corvettes. :-D
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Coming along nicely Steve. Your project looks a lot more like a car than mine does at this point! Congrats on the roller! :cheers:
I'd love to be mocking up engine and trans, but alas...
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I just had to share - just got a sneak peek of the injection pump that the Swedish builder is putting together for me....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/SwedishPump_zps626b9026.jpg)
This guy (Goran at Dieselmeken.AB, is arguably the best VW diesel pump builder on the planet).
I can almost see the black exhaust now!!!
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Coming along nicely Steve. Your project looks a lot more like a car than mine does at this point! Congrats on the roller! :cheers:
I'd love to be mocking up engine and trans, but alas...
I'll bet that your project will get to the "break over" point soon, and you will gain even more momentum. Yours has come a long way in a very short period of time.
Steve.
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When it rains, it pours. :-D :-D
Over the last few days, I have made breakthroughs on 2 different transaxle options for my Rampage.
The first one is worthy of a story.
If you didn't know, the city of St Louis is consistenly ranked in the top 5 most-dangerous cities in the USA. I was raised in the "good part" of the city of St Louis, but was bussed to the bad part when I was in middle and high school. The good part of STL is pretty good. The bad part is very bad. Now, I live in a semi-rural suburb, about 30 miles south of the city limits.
Anyway, I heard about this guy who is supposed to be the local guru of all things VW. I get his number, give him a call, and he says that he'll take a look at my trans, and make a few needed upgrades. He gives me his street address, and I recognize it as being in one of the worst parts of StL city that you could possibly think of. I ask him if this is a private residence, or an apartment building, as it's in an area where there used to be some industry and commerce, but now consists of a lot of boarded up buildings, a few bars, and plenty of street crime. He tells me that it's a 2-story warehouse that he lives in. I know he is a friend of some other friends, so I figure everything is OK.
I put a 9mm in the side pocket of my truck, and make the trek. In MO, no permit is required to carry a gun (concealed or unconcealed) in your vehicle.
I get to the address and give him a call. He tells me to pull into the alley and he will open the door. I pull around the alley, keeping a watchful eye for anything that looks too shady. It's a large, commercial garage door, with one of those accordian style steel security fences outside the actual garage door. Once inside, he has an amazing 2-story shop, 9,000 square feet, with 3 phase electric, car lifts, a big lathe, CNC milling machine, 1ton Chevy wrecker, and more VW stuff and vehicles than you could shake a stick at. It turns out that the building was built as a car dealership, probably in the early 50's.
All of the first floor windows have been bricked in. All of the 2nd story windows have been bricked over, with the exception of some very narrow windows. There is one steel entry door with another one of those accordian style steel security fence deals. From the outside, it looks like a boarded up, abandoned building, but contains a wonderland for a car guy with no wife or kids. The guy is a mechanical engineer at his day job, and bought this building for his hobby stuff. I'm sure the building was very cheap due to it's location, and most people will never know of all the goodness inside.
He is going through the 5-speed trans that I hope to use at B-ville.
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As a backup, I was hoping to use a 4-speed trans that I bought as part of a bunch of other VW junk.
It turns out that the 4-speed I have contains the tallest ring and pinion set available in the entirety of the VW 020 transmission world. This is fantastic news.
Today, I made contact with a guy near Chicago who uses these 4-speeds in a VW-based circle track car. He has every known set of gears for these trannies, and is willing to share. I've been playing with an Excel spreadsheet of target speeds, tire sizes, R&P ratios, 4th gear ratios, and engine rpms.
My thinking has now changed to using the 4-speed as my primary trans (4th gear in these transmissions is supposed to be stronger than the 5th gear in the 5 speed trannies), and keeping the 5-speed as my backup.
My guy in "The Hood" can change the drive flanges so that both trannies are the same, making a switch from one to the other a straight bolt-in affair.
Just thought you might like to know.
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That's cool. It's great when a day has surprises that bring wonder and joy! :cheers:
My start in fixing cars was summer work at my uncles VW dealership.
Geo
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I found that neighborhood once I think! Was on my way home from working the summer at my Uncles place, FLW by Rolla ;)
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:-D Steve, I went the other way. My school was in the good part of town. Nice to see you have options with gearboxes.
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Steve,
just be grateful that the shop wasnt in East St. Louis.
Joe
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If it was in ESTL, I would have left it alone. The State of IL won't even let law abiding people defend themselves.
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Steve,
just be grateful that the shop wasnt in East St. Louis.
Joe
Ended up there on the same trip...................Dad says "this doesn't look good." Aunt says, "oh my, I saw someone was murdered here (bar by the road) last week>" :-o
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Bro,
Good stories.
I can only imagine your thoughts as you were in "the hood". BTW 9MM is always good. :-D
Sounds like the 4 speed is the better choice.
I've been West bound with the pedal down all day and am now in Cookeville, TN for the night.
I plan on spending some time in Nashville tomorrow doing the tourist thing. :?
See you Saturday.
Gregg
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Great news on the trans Steve! I'm always happy for a guy that finds something akin to a diamond in the rough! Looking forward to seeing some drivetrain pics! :cheers:
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Here are some photos of the mock-up, with an empty block, a 4 speed trans, the rack&pinion, and the 4-speed linkage "mostly" in place. It looks kind of crummy now, but should be much cleaner when it's time for the real deal.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1456_zps494b2975.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1458_zpsa8757730.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1461_zpsfe78acfb.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1464_zps1129f974.jpg)
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...and I just won an eBay auction for 4 Moon Disks. Now I can make it look like a real LSR car.
Steve.
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Are you going to have that running by the time I get there Saturday? JK :-D
Looks REAL GOOD and I can't wait to see it.
Gregg
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...and I just won an eBay auction for 4 Moon Disks. Now I can make it look like a real LSR car.
Steve.
More new toys.....YES!
Gregg
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Right now, the rest of my garage looks like an atomic bomb hit a junkyard. It's time to re-organize and clean everything up.
There was one casualty tonight. I dropped a 15mm socket into the access hole for the transmission mount. There is that little access hole on the inside of the driver's side frame rail, in the wheel well. The socket rolled back into the subframe rail. I don't think I'll ever see that socket again.
Looking forward to seeing you on Saturday, Gregg.
Steve.
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Your engine is sideways, I would be worried!@
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Does that count as moveable ballast and if so is it legal??? :? :evil: :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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Steve,
Once upon a time, in a galaxy far, far away, I wrenched an SCCA B/Prod Corvette owned by a buddy of mine, along with a batch of his other friends. When we rebuilt the car, we found nine 9/16ths sockets and five 9/16 wrenches, that the car had "swallowed". . . . None were mine though. . . . .
:cheers:
Fordboy
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Does that count as moveable ballast and if so is it legal??? :? :evil: :-D :-D :-D
Pete
I may spend some time with a "grippy grabber", a magnet, a piece of baling wire, and whatever else I can think of to help me retrieve my beloved 15mm socket. It's not a MAC, Snap-On, gold plated Campagnolo limited edition that's been blessed by the Pope, or anything like that (It's a Husky), but I loved it just the same. Now there's an empty spot in the plastic case where she used to reside. It's a sad situation. Sure, I could buy a replacement socket, but that's like a replacement dog when your trusty companion passes away. It's just not the same.
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Your engine is sideways, I would be worried!@
There are some vehicles which use longitudinal engines, but still retain front wheel drive. The obvious examples are cars like the Olds Toronado, Cadillac Eldorado, etc.
However, there are some vehicles which are very similar to what I'm using which also retain the longitudinal engine/FWD layout. VW/Audi Fox and VW Quantum come to mind immediately. The thought had already crossed my mind to use such an arrangement, especially if I ever get to the point of running a larger V6 engine in this same vehicle (daydreaming).
Steve.
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Take a look at this setup. What makes this transaxle so interesting is how close the output shafts are to the "front" of the transaxle.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Quantumtransaxle_zps9a138a38.jpg)
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That box must be a popular choice for guys building rear engine kit sports cars. Steve, I'm cursed or something because if 50 guys are standing in a crowd the bird will find me and when it comes to dropping small things into open manifolds I am the undisputed world champion. Bring on the WBA, WBC, IBF they are small potatoes. :-D A newly built Formula V motor had to be stripped, 125cc Suzuki, 12A Peripheral port Mazda and many others. My solution is to cover all opening with 3M duct tape now. You need to pick that car up and shake it til it spits out the socket :-D :-D :-D If it's a closed end that it's fallen into maybe blowing compressed air might force it to roll towards where it started out. I know you'll get it out somehow.
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Take a look at this setup. What makes this transaxle so interesting is how close the output shafts are to the "front" of the transaxle.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Quantumtransaxle_zps9a138a38.jpg)
Steve -
Is that out of an Intrepid? Shure would make packaging easy.
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I think that one's out of a VW Quantum, but I can't be positive.
What makes it particularly interesting is that VW now has a 3 liter V6 turbodiesel. I can't confirm it, but I suspect it may be a close cousin to the 3 liter V6 turbodiesel that is going to be offered in the Grand Cherokee and also in th 1/2 ton Dodge Pickups in 2014.
Take a look at the F/DT record, and you'll see why it's in my daydreams.
Steve.
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Is VW quite big over there?. They are huge over here, almost every family has a VW somewhere and the racing scene is full of them. Lots of expert tuners here.
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VW is not very popular in terms of market share. It is more of a niche' player, offering several models with diesel drivetrains, which are a small minority of US passenger vehicle sales.
There is a good subculture of VW stuff, but the aftermarket and tuning popularity is dwarfed by GM products, Ford, and Chrysler.
The big benefit for me is that back in the late 70's and early 80's, Chrysler partnered with VW to supply drivetrains for many of the small front wheel drive offerings of the time. That was before Chrysler debuted their own 2.2L 4-banger and associated drivetrain components.
The Chrysler stuff is similar to the VW designs in many ways, but generally won't bolt together with the VW goodies. The key is knowing which models and years used VW components, and when the switch to Chrysler drivetrains took place.
I'm able to use "mostly" bolt-in components from the correct selection of vehicles to put this VW diesel drivetrain into my Rampage. The front motor mount will have to be cut apart and modified for clearance around the injection pump, but the rest of the bracketry has been pulled from a variety of junkyard cars and trucks.
Steve
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Steve,
Been following this entire thread. You're making awesome progress! Hope to see this Rampage out on the salt in August!
All the best... 8-)
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Thanks Duck. I can feel my internal clock ticking away on this project. I'm just trying to get a little bit of something done every day.
Today, I ordered 4 heim joints and some fine-thread allthreaded rod to fabricate some adjustable shifter linkage pieces.
I also located another 4-speed transmission at a semi-local junkyard. A friend of mine has volunteered to pick it up over the weekend.
Tonight, we have a Parish fish-fry. When I get home from that, I'll probably spend most of the evening cleaning up the garage.
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Does that count as moveable ballast and if so is it legal??? :? :evil: :-D :-D :-D
Pete
I may spend some time with a "grippy grabber", a magnet, a piece of baling wire, and whatever else I can think of to help me retrieve my beloved 15mm socket. It's not a MAC, Snap-On, gold plated Campagnolo limited edition that's been blessed by the Pope, or anything like that (It's a Husky), but I loved it just the same. Now there's an empty spot in the plastic case where she used to reside. It's a sad situation. Sure, I could buy a replacement socket, but that's like a replacement dog when your trusty companion passes away. It's just not the same.
Steve, why don't you just wait till Gregg gets there and yall can just pick up the little beasty, give her a flip and shake it till the lost scoket appears on the floor. Say Hi to gregg for me and Amy.
Frank.
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Will do, Cap'n.
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Take a look at this setup. What makes this transaxle so interesting is how close the output shafts are to the "front" of the transaxle.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Quantumtransaxle_zps9a138a38.jpg)
I do agree it is an interesting design. Much different than the Neon transaxle I picked up last week.
On a side note, thanks for the recommendation for Lambert's Cafe. Just got back and I think I'm about 10 lbs heavier. :-o
Staying in Sikeston tonight and will see you in the AM.
Gregg
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Tonight, we have a Parish fish-fry. When I get home from that, I'll probably spend most of the evening cleaning up the garage.
Leave some of the "mess" and I'll be glad to help tomorrow.
Gregg
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Steve, why don't you just wait till Gregg gets there and yall can just pick up the little beasty, give her a flip and shake it till the lost scoket appears on the floor. Say Hi to gregg for me and Amy.
Frank.
I thought the same thing before I read your post.
Hope you guys are doing well.....Tell Amy I said "Hey"
Gregg
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I'm able to use "mostly" bolt-in components from the correct selection of vehicles to put this VW diesel drivetrain into my Rampage. The front motor mount will have to be cut apart and modified for clearance around the injection pump, but the rest of the bracketry has been pulled from a variety of junkyard cars and trucks.
Steve
And on a related note for everyone, a lot of parts interchange between the 80's, 90's and 00's ChryCo cars. As an example, I am using a 2005 Neon SRT 4 engine, 2004 SRT 4 Struts and knuckles and a 1998 Neon transaxle in my Rampage and for the most part, they are bolt-in swaps. Steve is using 90's 1st Gen Neon Struts as well as 80's K car knuckles and again, bolt-in swap.
Makes life kinda easy.....or at least better! :-D
Gregg
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Steve,
Really good finally meeting you, Terry and your wives Saturday. It was a short visit but as you know I wanted to try and outrun the rain on the way home and not get the rotisserie wet.
I must say that I was very impressed with the work you have done on your truck and the cage work is spectacular! That diesel is going to be way cool and a straight bolt-in to boot!
I think the timing of all this was perfect for all this as the parts I left you will be needed very soon.
Here are a couple of links about the camber plates I was telling you about:
The Word doc that was with the pics are exerpts from several posts in this thread. One thing I forgot to mention is that these plates will only work with coilovers and not the stock strut. Please read the entire thread as Rich did make modifications after I got my set from his original batch.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?27818-Any-intrest-in-direct-fit-camber-plates&s=f0d67852ab652913067bd1ae68d3ebfc
This one shows how the plates are installed:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?61852-L-body-camber-plate-install
As for our discussion about your dash, I personnaly recommend doing something similiar to to mine so all control are within a very short reach with your right hand.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/37.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4062.jpg)
Also, please tell Terry thanks for the tip on the Intestates.....worked good and no 2 lane blacktops.
I did manage to outrun the rain and got home late yesterday afternoon.
Rotisserie now at home in the Tar Heel state:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/RotisserieinNC_zpscffd9426.jpg)
I am going to put it back together and try to get my Rampage on it later today.....got to clean up the garage 1st (I got entirely to much crap!) :-D
Again, many thanks for the rotisserie and I hope the parts I left will help you as well. :cheers:
Gregg
P.S.
As usual, if there is anything I can help you with please do not hesitate to let me know.
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You guys are having way too much fun with your pickups. :-D I'm feeling left out here :cry: It's great that you can help each other out. Nice spread you have Gregg!.
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You guys are having way too much fun with your pickups. :-D I'm feeling left out here :cry: It's great that you can help each other out. Nice spread you have Gregg!.
My fun has been slow but as you've seen, Steve's is wide open. Hopefully with the rotisserie, my fun can pick back up.
Don't feel left out.....You're giving long distance support. :cheers:
As the Midget coined it.....Steve and I are Rampage Brothers and bros help each other out :-D
Thanks for the compliment.
Gregg
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It was a great, but short visit on Saturday afternoon. Gregg left me some fantastic race-car goodies, and I convinced him to haul away my no-longer needed rotisserie. I hope he's able to get as much benefit from it as I have. Here are a few quick pics from Saturday....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1471_zps40eff3dd.jpg)
The Rampage Brothers meet in person....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1466_zpse7fce510.jpg)
Gregg brought along this super-trick tubular K-frame for a little show and tell. This piece is VERY nice.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1468_zpsbeb898c1.jpg)
Gregg and my neighbor Terry, strapping in the pieces of the rotisserie. That thing's pretty heavy.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1470_zps0c9c48e8.jpg)
The Rampage brothers again, just before Gregg's departure.
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On Sunday, I braved some fairly nasty weather to do some junkyard searching. I came away with a "GL" code VW 4-speed. I now own 3 of the 4 available sets of gears for these transaxles.
There's a pretty good chance that I'll pick up the 4th available set by this coming weekend.
I'm hoping to be the "Guru" of VW 4-speeds.
Steve.
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Good pics.....It's a wonder that the balding fat guy didn't cause your camera to break. :-o
Great news on the VW gear find! :cheers:
Gregg
P.S.
When you find the 4th gear you need, change your sig line to read:
1/2 of the Rampage Brothers and Guru of VW 4-speeds :-D
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:-D. :cheers: Great pics. Now I know what you geezers look like. You make a fine pair and I'm hoping to see even bigger smiles come August.
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Geezer??? I tell my wife that I'm a much younger man, trapped in an aging man's body and gray hair. HA!
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Apparently, when putting three question marks in a row, an iPhone changes to that frowny face. I was just goofing. My USAC racing age is 45.
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You look like a cyclist brother. You must be a climber of note!. You're a youngster at 45. My old friend Errol (79) called me a kid. :-D
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I'm only a few pounds over a good cycling weight, but I just don't have the fitness right now. I could stand to lose 5-10 more lbs to be in really good cycling shape. It's impossible to REALLY train to race a bicycle and complete a project like this Rampage.
I got out for our team training ride on Saturday morning. As I returned to my home, Gregg was pulling up in his red Toyota. I didn't even take the time to change out of my cycling kit, which is somewhat visible under the black warmup jacket that I'm wearing.
At 6:00 a.m., it was about 60 degrees F. Our training ride started at 7:30, when it was about 55 F. By the time we finished our ride, around 9:15 or so, it was in the low 40's. The temps kept dropping all day.
Steve.
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Plan to ride some this week myself. Need to get out of the shop some! Been looking at new bikes, when I look at the price of a Yeti I think of all the safety gear that would cover, 3-4k!
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Exactly. I picked up a closeout on a "team discount" Giant TCR advanced. It was $2,500 without wheels. Sometimes I kick myself for spending the money on it, but once I'm riding it, all that $$$ is forgotten.
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Santa's brown truck brought me some more goodies today....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Dzusparts_zps6a30f6ef.jpg)
the Dzus goodies needed to mount Moon disks onto my wheels.
Disks have shipped, but I haven't received them yet.
Steve
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...and some goodies to fabricate the 4-speed shift linkage. Goodbye to the 34 year od plastic bushings and bent steel rods. Hello to steel rod ends, 3/8" fine threaded rod, and oilite bushings.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/shiftlinkage_zps54591e62.jpg)
Steve.
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I picked up a great sponsor today - Performance Diesel Injection in Ontario, Canada. Giles at PDI just made it possible for me to run one of his performance diesel camshafts in my Rampage. Without his generous help, there is a high likelihood that I would not have spent the money for this cam.
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Gรถran at Dieselmeken AB, Colin at Techtonics, Gary and Doug at AMT racing engines, and now Giles at Performance Diesel Injection have all stepped up to help me with this project. I can only offer my sincere thanks to all of them.
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Congrats Steve! You deserve some support!
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Good news. :cheers:
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First of all - this forum provides as much or more support than any web-based community I have ever been involved with. The technical information sharing, experienced advice, and all-around good people make this a top-notch website and community. For that, I am very thankful.
The commercial sponsorships really help to defray the costs, freeing up funds for other parts of the project. The commercial help I have received has been from some of the top names in their various industries. For that, I am very thankful.
In short, THANK YOU!
Steve.
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Good one Steve. Sponsors are important and should get all the credit they deserve. :cheers:
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Great new on the sponsorships!
Gregg
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Steve,
I wanted to post this pic and info to show you what our trucks NEED to look like.
This truck was owned by Chris Pauluk out of Modesto, CA and he called it the Ramlet.
Do a search on his name and Ramlet and you'll get back quite a number of hits.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/MVC-274S_zps67e39303.jpg)
It has Koni adjustable shocks all around with coilovers up front, axle flip in rear and 17" wheels (no rubbing!).
Here is his Car Domain link set to page 5 (lowering pics):
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/649171/1984-dodge-rampage/page-5/
Here is a link to MiniTruckin that featured his truck and also note the comment about bump steer:
http://rides.minitruckinweb.com/ride/1002673/chris-d/1984/dodge/rampage/photos/13.html
This search is where he did several aero flow simulations and posted on youtube:
http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AkrT1nJbxvGyCOST41xHTW.bvZx4?p=1984+Dodge+Rampage+%22Ramlet%22+Areo+testing+simulator+&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&fr=yfp-t-200
As usual, hope this helps,
Gregg
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Gregg, we don't have those trucks here but the front looks a lot like a Fiero. We had a few of those here a while back. It's a nice looking truck that you posted.
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Gregg:
Great looking Rampage there. I haven't had time to check out the details yet, but should get to them later today.
Is this the same guy who had that huge build thread on the Turbo Mopar board (the truck started life as a complete rust bucket?)
Steve.
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Gregg:
Great looking Rampage there. I haven't had time to check out the details yet, but should get to them later today.
Is this the same guy who had that huge build thread on the Turbo Mopar board (the truck started life as a complete rust bucket?)
Steve.
Nope, this one was done 6 - 7 years ago. The owner was involved in a bad accident that screwed up his back and he ended up selling it.
Gregg
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I picked up 2 more 4-speeds this morning.
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Cornering the market?
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Steve plans on so much HP that he will break all of them!
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Just a quick pic to show that I'm still making progress....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/4speedlinkage_zpsb714e970.jpg)
This is the re-worked shifter linkage. Gone are the 35 year old plastic bushings and bent rods, having been replaced with metal oilite bushings, Heim joints, and threaded rod.
It needs some refinement (lock nuts, better sized bolts, a little paint here and there), but is fully functional.
Steve.
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While doing some junkyard searching, I did run across this prime candidate for Sports/GT type enthusiasts. I think this 928 has a lot of potential. :-o
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/junkyard928_zps84a9c79a.jpg)
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That 928 would be fun to play with.
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It sure would be fun to run a Porsche 928 in GT or whatever. It's engine compartment is big enough for a V8.
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Needs a bit of work to get ready for the salt flats ... windows are all prep'd for lexan though.
Joe
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I temporarily installed the doors, fenders, and hood for visual purposes. It needs a serious dose of altitude adjustment, which is in the works.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1473_zpsf63e0ad1.jpg)
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Hi Steve
That beauty needs to get turned into a low rider and slammed to the ground, then she be styling for the salt
Don
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Yep- I'm looking for about 5" of drop in the front, and as much as I can get in the back.. The crossmember and oil pan are currently at 7.5" from the pavement. If I can get that down to 2", I'd be very happy.
New tires are about to be ordered P165/50/15 VR15's. That's 21.5" diameter, compared to the 25" diameter donuts that are currently mounted. There's a net drop of 1.75".
The other 3.25" of front-end drop is planned to result from an el-cheapo coilover conversion kit for the Neon front struts, in combination with the camber/caster adjustment plates donated by Gkabbt.
In the rear, I can pull a leaf or two from the spring pack for additional drop. Fine tuning of ride height will be via a pair of Gabriel Hi-Jacker air shocks.
I'm just about to pull the trigger on the tires this afternoon. I hope I can get this truck done before the bank comes to repossess everything. LOL.
Steve.
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The Rampage looks good Steve. Can I ask why you're going smaller on tire diameter?. Is that a Kirkey I see in the truck?.
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In terms of tire size, I've been playing with transmission gear ratios, ring and pinion ratios, tire sizes, engine rpm's, and target speeds on a couple of spreadsheets.
I have 2 combinations that look promising to me, both of which require shorter tires for the speeds I'm looking to run and the favorable rpm window for the engine. I'm afraid that if I went with the larger tires, the engine would "lug", and not be able to pull through the rpm range.
My thinking is to have 2 sets of matched pairs of tires, with slightly different diameters (front & back). Then, a quick change of front tires to rear, and rear tires to front, functions like a quick-change set of gears.
The seat is an UltraShield. This one features what they call their "Bonneville" headrest which is designed specifically to meet the lateral head restraint rules of the SCTA.
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The Rampage looks good Steve. Can I ask why you're going smaller on tire diameter?. Is that a Kirkey I see in the truck?.
Taurucky, I happen to be an UltraShield dealer :wink:
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Steve, back in the very old days when I ran leaf spring stock cars I used to pull the leaf springs apart. You can then re-arch the individual leaf springs rather easily. The advantage to doing that is that you would retain the stiffness of the spring which may help in maintaining the correct attitude. (You don't need attitude problems!!! :-D :-D 8-))
Pete
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I like that plan. What did you use to re-arch the individual springs? Hydraulic press?
Steve.
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We've had it done at a trailer supply shop that does installations. They're also a spring shop. Must be one around somewhere.
Great to watch the guy do it. He rolls each leaf thru a 3-roller affair, and compares it to where he wants to get with a fresh chalkline on the floor. Just right tech for our sledge hammer.
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When you lower, be sure you can still get it on and off the trailer without dragging the pan off of it....
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I've used a hammer and I've used a press. Just put the spring on a couple of pieces of wood had apply the pressure in between the wood. These days I'd probably just use a dead blow hammer and take it slowly. (Lots of little taps.) Springs aren't really as springy as they may seem at first glance. Just keep everything the same side to side.
Pete
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Steve, just a thought.....
My thought for the lowering of the rear is to install a spacer in between the rear axle and spring with longer u-bolts.
This way, there is no need to do anything with the springs. Am I off base on this thinking? :?
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_3722.jpg)
Gregg
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:-D :cheers: Old age ain't so bad hey Gregg!.
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:-D :cheers: Old age ain't so bad hey Gregg!.
It beats the alternative.....And I get another year older in 1 week! :cheers:
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My first idea was to remove a leaf or two from the spring pack, then use air shocks fine tune the ride height. Although air shocks are not intended to support big loads, I think that if I get the height close enough with the springs, I can get maybe a total of 2 inches of travel with the air shocks for clearance in loading/offloading the truck onto the trailer.
I used to have a '63 Chevy II which utilized air shocks on the back, and I was pretty pleased with them. I had the air lines plumbed to a Schraeder valve in the trunk. When I wanted it to sit up higher, I just aired 'em up.
The blocks or de-arching definitely have some appeal, particularly on the basis of simplicity.
Steve.
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Steve, just a thought.....
My thought for the lowering of the rear is to install a spacer in between the rear axle and spring with longer u-bolts.
This way, there is no need to do anything with the springs. Am I off base on this thinking? :?
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_3722.jpg)
Gregg
Steve, with your axle set up blocks would be the the sure fire way to keep both sades even and easy to make changes to. Just say'n
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It's amazing what a few years have done. What's being proposed is the classic lowering blocks which used to be available at every auto supply store to get that neat tail dragger look. Next thing you know the hot items will be cruiser skirts and continental kits! :-D :-D :-D
I never liked lowering blocks because of the leverage they applied to the springs but in this case it probably isn't all that bad. There are still the braking forces and using rear brakes only there might be a tendency to wheel hop.
Pete
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Next thing you know the hot items will be cruiser skirts and continental kits! :-D :-D :-D
Pete
Pete, you laugh, I' looking to see if I can get away with putting skirts on our camaro for areo improvements..... :-D
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I have a set of Moroso high rise front springs tucked away in a box, just waiting for the right application.
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Gregg nailed it :-D The blocks will save you lots of grief.
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I had an ElCamino with air shocks, rode like a Caddy even hauling engines in back. I vote for the air shocks regardless of you using blocks or de-arched springs. Might make it easier to get on the trailer.
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A caution about blocks in this application -
Your axle is already dropped, which puts a forward twisting leverage on the leaf springs when you apply the brakes. By lowering it further with blocks, you increase the mechanical advantage the spindle centerline has over the point where the assembly attaches to the springs.
One of the reasons lowering blocks work okay - and just okay - on a rear wheel drive car with leafs is that this mechanical advantage isn't a big issue - you've moved the pivot point only a short distance - typically 1 to 2 inches - and the axle centerline remains relatively close to the spring.
You're already at what looks like a 4 inch drop from your spindles to the axle beam (which if I recall correctly, is made of stamped steel), so I'd be concerned about the additional leverage extending that drop would have on the spring perch, the beam and the spring mounting perch, and the additional torsion that this arrangement would apply to the springs.
Yup, I HAVE owned two of them! :cheers:
Edited for clarity - I hope . . .
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What if the block (approx. 4") was not just under the axle but had a length of about 12 - 14"+.....kinda like a "mini" leaf?
With what Chris posted, would that help with the additional leverage extending that drop would have on the spring perch, the beam and the spring mounting perch, and the additional torsion that this arrangement would apply to the springs.
Gregg
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I think it would add stress points to the main leaf at either end of the long lowering block in an area where the spring is designed to flex. While the stress would be relatively low as it's only on rebound I still don't like it.
Pete
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Wouldn't a simple traction bar above axle keep all hop out as well as locate rear axle more firmly?
My examples would include the 2000ish ford explorer 2 door as well as mopar's leaf spring drag race program from the 60's before 4 links were allowed.
It essentially turned the front half of the leaf spring into a lower link of a 4link.
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Well, realistically, I don't think it's going to take much - if this were a drive axle where you'd be on and off the power and needed to worry about loading and unloading traction, it would need to be as heavy duty as a typical 4-link.
This type of application might be useful and easy to create -
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=52141&SortOrder=20
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Or...universal Lakewood 28" traction bars are $53.95 at Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-20475/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-20475/overview/) which I imagine could be easily shortened to suit.
Mike
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thats exactly what i was thinking milwaukee midget. except those look just like caltrac bars (without the adjustability) based on the spring end of the brackets.
i was suggesting above the rear axle for the ground clearance issues, as well as keeping the bottom of the car "clean".
this has a fixed front point (important to have height set properly to pivot without suspension bind)
caltrac, or pivoting front point bars can unload and cause more slop and bounce when direction changes
(work on acceleration, but on decel, axle wraps the other way)
http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&safe=off&biw=1280&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=WdsImSC2Bgd28M:&imgrefurl=http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php%3Fid%3D20164&docid=mq5UrV371KpGUM&imgurl=http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/271756/fullsize/22-superlift-traction-bar.jpg&w=565&h=424&ei=mvhRUdqKNKLcyQH2t4CwDQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=619&vpy=307&dur=7979&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=182&ty=113&page=2&tbnh=136&tbnw=193&start=18&ndsp=27&ved=1t:429,r:42,s:0,i:214
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Guys, Seems like your thoughts are simple, yet effective.
I like the looks of this! Good job Crackerman.
http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&safe=off&biw=1280&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=WdsImSC2Bgd28M:&imgrefurl=http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php%3Fid%3D20164&docid=mq5UrV371KpGUM&imgurl=http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/271756/fullsize/22-superlift-traction-bar.jpg&w=565&h=424&ei=mvhRUdqKNKLcyQH2t4CwDQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=619&vpy=307&dur=7979&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=182&ty=113&page=2&tbnh=136&tbnw=193&start=18&ndsp=27&ved=1t:429,r:42,s:0,i:214
Gregg
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thats exactly what i was thinking milwaukee midget. except those look just like caltrac bars (without the adjustability) based on the spring end of the brackets.
i was suggesting above the rear axle for the ground clearance issues, as well as keeping the bottom of the car "clean".
On the MGB, that's exactly how they install.
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In the old auto supply stores they were right beside the lowering blocks and had the brand name "Traction Master". They were normally mounted below the axle. :-D :-D 8-)
Pete
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While I ponder the possibilities for the rear suspension drop, I thought I had better go on record as saying:
I'm planning to get very greasy tonight. I will be investigating the possibility of mixing and matching inner and outer CV joints on the same shaft.
Since I'm using the later model "heavy duty" outer knuckle/spindles from a K-car, and the inner drive flanges of an early Omni/VW trans, there is no 100% bolt-in solution.
With any luck, I'll be able to swap one end of one shaft onto the other end of the other shaft. The alternative is cutting, sleeving, and welding, which I would prefer not to do unless absolutely necessary.
Steve.
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Traction Master bars were very cool to have on your street ride in the 60's, kind of a trick gearhead thing back then.
Don
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Turbo manifold arrived today. This was the most compact manifold I could find for this application.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/TurboManifold_zpsd77b6ccc.jpg)
I'll get it fitted up to the head, bolt on the turbo, and see how much, if any, clearance exists between the turbo and the firewall.
If I get lucky, I won't have to modify the firewall. (keeping fingers crossed)
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that looks like it will do the job!
be sure to wrap it, or use a blanket on it. then maybe a heat shield on top of that. keep the heat in, and let it go out exhaust. it will also help reduce spool time.
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Sid (Kiwi belly tank) told me about a great guy to wrap that intake-Levi, Turbo Performance Products
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Stout looking piece. It seems to confirm that runner length isn't important with a turbo installation. Am I right?. No jack of your thread intended but it would be nice to know. Your build is escalating day by day. You've gained huge momentum lately. GO STEEEEVE!
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I was going to suggest Levi as well.
Tauruck, much unlike a tuned header that only gives 700ish rpm of peak evacuation, turbo diesel exhaust manifolds require flow, velocity and volume. Many high hp (1300+ hp cummins pullers) found that a runner manifold (header) actually loses spool time and sometimes max hp due to not being "on top" of the charger. More hp was to be made with a high flow log type manifold or new to the market "steed speed" brand manifold.
Diesel exhaust is cold and slow compared to gas exhaust.
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The manifold fit great, and I think that the turbo would have cleared the firewall if I had purchased a manifold with the correct turbo flange (T3 versus T25). :? DOH!
I guess I had a brain fart upon ordering the manifold. Now I will return the incorrect manifold, get the right one on it's way, and wait for another day. There's still a huge list of items to be addressed which do not require the turbo and manifold to be in place.
With a 4-day weekend coming up, I hope to get some more work done on the Rampage.
Steve.
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Well, it looks like the T25 manifold would come with it's own set of problems with respect to bolting on the turbo, and be more costly as well.
For those reasons, I'm going to buy a cast T3-to-T25 adapter, which will add just over 2" to the depth of the manifold, but will allow a clean bolt-up. That means I'll have to modify the firewall, but that was always a possibility.
I'm planning to set a cut-away section of 1/4" thick steel tubing, like 6" or 8" wide, and 3" deep, back into the firewall. That will give plenty of turbo clearance, and 1/4" thick steel as an additional safety barrier if the turbo ever came apart.
One step forwards, 2 steps back.
Steve.
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Steve, or anyone else. I found measured drawings somewhere online of the various flanges................then forgot where! Anyone know where I can find them?
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http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/3809-turbo-flange-dimensions-t25-t3-t04.html
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Man, I love when you guys post links. you should see the library I have from this forum :-D
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http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/3809-turbo-flange-dimensions-t25-t3-t04.html
Thank you Steve!
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OK, it's time to upload some new photos....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1533_zps43ec789f.jpg)
When Gregg came to pay me a visit, he left a very cool pair of camber/caster adjustment plates. I tried not to waste much time putting them to use on my project. These are high-quality pieces made by a guy who specializes in front-wheel drive Chrysler vehicles. The plates are designed to be used with coil-overs, as opposed to the factory McPherson strut setup. This is not the final installation, but you can tell how they work from the pic.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1530_zps51253cc6.jpg)
With that in mind, there was only one thing to do - buy a "Drop Zone" coilover conversion kit, which utilizes the factory strut and conventional coil-over adjustment sleeves and springs. Here is the setup on a junkyard-fresh Neon strut. When it goes together for real, I'll have a new set of struts installed.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1534_zpsb4c5c2b4.jpg)
In this pic, you can see that the kit offers a pretty good drop, but there's still a little bit of room to get lower. Shorter tires will handle some of the drop, and some modifications to the coilover kit and mounting hardware will provide the rest.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1536_zps7f11c212.jpg)
This is how she looks with the fender in place. The tire tucks in a bit, and there's not much room for turning side to side.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1537_zpsac115e9f.jpg)
The crossmember and oil pan are about 4-3/4" off the ground. With the smaller tires, this will be more like 3". I don't think I can go much lower.
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Okay - a few more pics. My goals for the weekend were to get the front suspension figured out, and get the steering linkage worked out as well. The front suspension is fairly well sorted out, but not 100% finalized.
I also got the steering linkage attached and functional. The hardware and brackets are for mock-up only, I'll have to remake the brackets with some "real" parts next time. The pedals are also hung in place.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1541_zpsca14033c.jpg)
I'd like some input on how to seal the firewall where the steering shaft passes through. The factory setup was a plastic "bucket" type arrangement which was held to the firewall with sheetmetal screws. Obviously, I'd like something less flammable than the plastic cover. I'm open for ideas.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1544_zps9fe9df26.jpg)
Once the suspension was bolted in, and the steering attached, I decided to roll her outside for the first time in a long time.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1546_zps56661291.jpg)
I also received the turbo flange adapter that I'll be using. This will make installation & removal much easier, and will also serve as a good location for an Exhaust Gas Temperature probe. The Periodic Table coffee mug is to highlight the proper scale.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1547_zpsffad4566.jpg)
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Excellent post Steve. It looks great just standing outside. You've made good progress. :cheers:
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As usual, looks really good.
I agree that when you do the final install of the camber/caster plates and coilovers you'll get the drop you're looking for. :cheers:
I REALLY like this pic. This is CLOSE to what I am looking for on my truck with the Gen 2 Neon stuff.....just a little lower.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1537_zpsac115e9f.jpg)
If you really want/need to go lower than 3" you could get one of the tubular k-frames like I have.....only $$$$.
Remember though, as Stainless posted earlier, you don't want to go to low due to problems getting on/off the trailer.
Gregg
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Steve, How about welding some metal in around your steeing shaft, then slipping a bearing and housing over the shaft, and bolting it down, to seal that part of the firewall? You wouldn't have to use the eccentric collar. Just an idea.
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I'd like some input on how to seal the firewall where the steering shaft passes through. The factory setup was a plastic "bucket" type arrangement which was held to the firewall with sheetmetal screws. Obviously, I'd like something less flammable than the plastic cover. I'm open for ideas.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1541_zpsca14033c.jpg)
Once the suspension was bolted in, and the steering attached, I decided to roll her outside for the first time in a long time.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1546_zps56661291.jpg)
Steve, I'm glad you asked the question about sealing the steering shaft as I need to find that out also. ANYONE?
I REALLY like your second pic as it reminds me of the Four Shifts and Grins which is very similar to what I'm shooting for.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/LSRRampage.jpg)
Gregg
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I was initially hoping to use a bearing plate like the one 38 flattie posted. In my mind's eye, the skinny part of the shaft is what passed through the firewall. The skinny part is probably about 1/2" or 5/8". In reality, it's the thick part that passes through the firewall, and that section is more like 1-1/2 or 2" (I'll measure tonight). A bearing plate with a 2" ID bearing is going to be very stout and expensive.
I've been picturing a tube with a flange on the firewall end, and then a bearing plate up on the skinny part of the shaft. That might work, I'll have to eyeball it a little more. That would allow me to screw the flange portion to the firewall, and still remove it fairly easily if needed.
Gregg - the tires that are on it right now are 195/65/15's, about 25" diameter. If you go to 26" tires, you are going to need a lot of inward offset (I can never remember if that's negative or positive), and skinny tires. Mine start to rub pretty bad as soon as the wheel is turned more than 15 degrees or so.
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I've been picturing a tube with a flange on the firewall end, and then a bearing plate up on the skinny part of the shaft. That might work, I'll have to eyeball it a little more. That would allow me to screw the flange portion to the firewall, and still remove it fairly easily if needed.
Gregg - the tires that are on it right now are 195/65/15's, about 25" diameter. If you go to 26" tires, you are going to need a lot of inward offset (I can never remember if that's negative or positive), and skinny tires. Mine start to rub pretty bad as soon as the wheel is turned more than 15 degrees or so.
Sounds like you may be onto something. Please keep me in mind for whatever you do for the steering shaft. I have known about it for a long time, as I'm sure you have, but just haven't done anything about it.
Thanks for the info on the tires. As for mine, I'll just have to wait and see. I've got a few weeks left of cleaning, painting and waiting on parts before mine can come off the rotisserie. I think I remember reading that a +45 offset puts the wheel in about 1/2" in from the fender but I don't remember what tire/rim was used.....I'll dig that up.
***EDITED to add:
As for the rubbing, Manghelli has the same issue on the WGB VW.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/211120Shop2011_12-1.jpg)
Gregg
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I really like this pair of builds! Thanks for posting both of them. I would lower the front even more. The back too. Use some 2 x 6 to make ramps with about 2 feet (or what's need) of level space before the next layer of 2 x to allow the tire to get up just before the spoiler reaches the next level. Use these in the pits to et up to jack height. Keep the front wheel as covered by the fender as possible. No steering needed past 10 degrees. Use a dolly to tow the car and provide the steering. Use the rear axle off a K car or caravan to make one. Use the same wheels as on the Rampage.
Great idea with the diesel mix. This is making me think... hmmm
Geo
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If it a fireproof issue, what about one of the shift boots they use on Stock cars? Simpson and several others make them. They might be able to help design or modify a boot to suit what you are trying to do.
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I agree. Look up shifter or pedal boots, probably
some used ones on Racing Junk. I got mine from
Muscle Motorsports in Huntersville, NC. $15 used
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If it a fireproof issue, what about one of the shift boots they use on Stock cars? Simpson and several others make them. They might be able to help design or modify a boot to suit what you are trying to do.
I agree. Look up shifter or pedal boots, probably
some used ones on Racing Junk. I got mine from
Muscle Motorsports in Huntersville, NC. $15 used
AJR and Luke, thanks for the tip for Steve and me. I just did a google and saw that Speedway has this on eBay. Is this what you are talking about?
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/ShifterBoot_zpsb2ea6c5f.jpg)
This pic is from my truck and is the plastic "bucket" Steve was talking about.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/57.jpg)
And this pic is from Steve's truck with the "bucket" removed and the hole that needs to be covered.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1541_zpsca14033c.jpg)
Could we just plate around the steering shaft and then use the fireproof shifter boot?
Many thanks to everyone for the input on this. This is why I like this forum so much!!!!! :cheers:
Gregg
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Just had another thought on this after my previous post. :-o
Could we weld a patch panel/plate around the steering shaft where it meets the floor and then bolt that to the floor using 3M Fireblock in between?
Here is a link to 3M for what I'm talking about:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/fire-protection-systems-NA/firestop/firestopping-products/product-catalog/?PC_7_U00M8B1A0OP590IB369UJT2FR7000000_nid=15L6FSM7GVbeTGS9R7QM25gl
That way the steering shaft would be removable and it would also be fireproof and would not need the shifter boot.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1541_zpsca14033c.jpg)
Just found this fireproof collar that might be helpful.....Opinions?
http://www.stifirestop.com/products/product-selector/lcc-intumescent-firestop-collars/
Gregg
EDITED to remove needless babble and added 3M link
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Maybe look at http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw1.php?clickkey=207143 as a possibility. It doesn't look like it would be large enough for your application but might give you some ideas. Or search Aircraft Spruce for "firewall"
Roy
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Looks like the boot should do fine, That fire seal collar may not hold up the the twisting of the steering shaft.
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Maybe look at http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw1.php?clickkey=207143 as a possibility. It doesn't look like it would be large enough for your application but might give you some ideas. Or search Aircraft Spruce for "firewall"
Roy
Roy, Good tip. Now if we can just find something larger.
Gregg
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Looks like the boot should do fine, That fire seal collar may not hold up the the twisting of the steering shaft.
Frank, Thanks for the thumbsup on the boot. Also, to clarify, the steering shaft goes into the column and that is what goes through the firewall. The column does not move.
Gregg
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OK - my vision for the morning is to re-create the general design of the plastic bucket, but use something like a super-heavy duty coffee can design, with a plate mounted "misalignment" bearing attached to the closed end of the can.
I might have to buy a 3" exhaust coupling to form the tubular portion of the can, weld some sheetmetal across one end, then buy a bearing like this...
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Firewall-Mount-Flanged-Bearing-for-Steering-Shaft,2044.html
from Speedway or some other such vendor.
Steve.
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Steve, That sounds like that would work. I was just trying to get away from the original design, hence the patch panel / plate suggestion at the floor.
Gregg
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I agree. Look up shifter or pedal boots, probably
some used ones on Racing Junk. I got mine from
Muscle Motorsports in Huntersville, NC. $15 used
SteveM
I got my shifter boot used from Roush-Yates they have a used shifter boot for $37 http://www.roushyatesparts.com/Used-Racing-Safety-Equipment-s/595.htm (http://www.roushyatesparts.com/Used-Racing-Safety-Equipment-s/595.htm)
Hope this helps
Bill
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If I was going to go with the shift boot, I think I would by 2. I'd test one with an open flame, and see how long before there is a breach.
Remember, if there is an engine fire, any hole in the firewall will be like a blow torch.JMHO
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FYI update - I just received a pair of reman axle shafts for a '79 Horizon (purchased on eBay for $20 each). They should be the correct length, but the outer CV's may need to be changed.
Anyway, they were packed in a couple of dusty boxes, and protected with wadded up newspaper, from August 30, 1990. I guess these have been sitting on a shelf for the last 23 years.
Steve.
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Don't you just love eBay and the surprises they bring? :-D
My headlight covers were new but in old ratty dusty waterstained boxes. :-o
Gregg
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Good news :-D
The CV axles for a '79 Horizon with a 1.7L gas engine fit on both ends and are the correct length for an '84 Rampage with a 1.5 Diesel, a Dodge Omni trans, and the knuckles & drive hubs from a '91 Plymouth Acclaim. HOORAY.
The only thing I had to change was the seals on the outside of the outer CV's, to the inside face of the front wheel bearings. Everything bolts up perfectly, the splines match, the axles are the correct lengths, and the transaxle is centered properly.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1549_zpsde23e315.jpg)
I realize this pic isn't much to look at, but it does show the passenger's side drive shaft fully functional and in the correct location in space.
This news made me feel so good, I decided to start working on modifying the firewall for turbo clearance.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1548_zpsadf89781.jpg)
Making the mental leap to cut the firewall was the toughest part.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1552_zpsbaf2bcd1.jpg)
This is where the Garrett GT2056 will reside.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1560_zps2013cf5b.jpg)
Another view, and shortly after I decided that the turbo openings needed to be covered with blue tape.
That's all for tonight.
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Good news :-D
The CV axles for a '79 Horizon with a 1.7L gas engine fit on both ends and are the correct length for an '84 Rampage with a 1.5 Diesel, a Dodge Omni trans, and the knuckles & drive hubs from a '91 Plymouth Acclaim. HOORAY.
The only thing I had to change was the seals on the outside of the outer CV's, to the inside face of the front wheel bearings. Everything bolts up perfectly, the splines match, the axles are the correct lengths, and the transaxle is centered properly.
This news made me feel so good, I decided to start working on modifying the firewall for turbo clearance.
Steve, really good news on the axle fit and I know that is a major load off your mind.
As we've said before, isn't it incredible how the "new" Chrysler stuff fits the old and vice versa!
The firewall cut for the turbo "box" looks good as well. My engine will not need the turbo adapter like you have so my firewall box is just making room for the O2 housing/downpipe.
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4054.jpg)
Gregg
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Between you and Steve, we're being kept busy. Good progress guys. Thanks for the updates. :cheers:
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Yup, what Mike said. You guys with your parts interchange kill me. We can't find GM junk that swaps out that well. :cheers:
Frank.
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Steve, PM me the diameter on that steering shaft.
As one might expect, I've got a spare MG steering shaft with a proper collar that might be able to be pressed into service.
(http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/milwaukeemidget/Midget%20Build/DSCN3765.jpg)
If it will work, it's yours.
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The smaller shaft diameter is 0.690"???
I didn't measure the larger section (yet).
I was hoping to use a 3/4 ID bearing and a thin sleeve, but if your's will work, I'd be honored to race with it.
Thanks,
Steve.
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In another case of "spending money like I've got it", I purchased 4 brand new "V" rated tires today (2 sets of matched pairs).
If needed, I'll switch the fronts and rears like a poor man's quick change to get a different final drive ratio.
Steve.
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Poor man's quick change??? That must be the quickest, cheapest one ever. If the members on the forum are having fun building, you and Gregg must be at the top of the list. Great stuff and I hope you find a simple solution to sealing the steering shaft. :cheers:
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I had a pretty productive weekend on the Rampage. I managed to get the firewall boxed in for turbo clearance, welded the cowl vent shut, and welded up the other non-needed holes in the firewall.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1561_zps6d5feffc.jpg)
In-process pic.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1563_zps35b6a894.jpg)
A little farther along...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1565_zpsc4b6cde9.jpg)
Cowl vent welded shut (notice the pentastar shape).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1566_zps20ff2909.jpg)
Other holes welded shut.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1567_zps1f5197e4.jpg)
After canodizing.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1574_zps6fd1eabc.jpg)
The turbo nestled into its new home.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1569_zpse77f030c.jpg)
The view from inside the cabin.
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I also put her back up on jackstands, so that I could remove all 4 wheels and tires.
The old tires will get de-mounted tomorrow, so that I can prep the wheels for the Moon disk / Dzus hardware.
Hopefully, by the time I get the Dzus tabs welded in place, the new tires will have arrived.
In addition, I cut the bump stop brackets off the rear frame rails, in anticipation of further lowering.
Steve.
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Also, to clarify, the steering shaft goes into the column and that is what goes through the firewall. The column does not move.
Gregg
My bad on this post from last week.
I had not taken the plastic "bucket" off to see what was underneath and was going on ASSumption.
I took the "bucket" off yesterday and this part of the steering does indeed turn. The lowest part of the shaft is 1 1/2" and the upper part is 5/8".
Here is the pics that Steve originally posted:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1541_zpsca14033c.jpg)
It looks like the flange block bearing that Buddy posted would work.
Gregg
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A quick update - I just dropped off the wheels and tires at the local Western Auto, to have the current tires dis-mounted.
Steve.
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Way to go Steve. You're on it big time. I can't wait for August. The forum is going to go nuts. :cheers:
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Another quick update - the smaller set of tires was delivered today. 165/50/15 V-rated. These little guys are cute.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/fronttires_zps6cc9db6e.jpg)
I love the smell of fresh tires.
Tauruck - I'm not going to be there for Speed Week. I'm going to make my debut at World Of Speed in September.
Steve.
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I'm sure you'll have it all figured out by September. Either way I think you've done great. :cheers: There are a very special set of new tires I'd love to Sniff!.
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Another small update - the Moon/Dzus weld jig should be here by next Tuesday. Until then, I'll have to be content to sit and look at the Moon disks and imagine that they are attached to the wheels.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1575_zps96119d03.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1575_zps96119d03.jpg.html)
I did manage to get a little body work done last night, to cover the seams where the roof has been cut off and re-welded. A little Bondo, and a little bit of Dupli-Color primer later, and it doesn't look too bad. I'm not a body man by any stretch of the imagination, but this should turn out decent.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1577_zps9cd65554.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1577_zps9cd65554.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1580_zps8958de97.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1580_zps8958de97.jpg.html)
That's all for now. My plan is to work on the suspension over the weekend, and keep working on the under-hood layout.
Steve.
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It's come a long way in a short time and it's looking good Steve. :cheers:
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Looking really good as usual Steve! :cheers:
Gregg
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Thanks guys, the positive feedback keeps me energized and moving forward. By next weekend, I should have the Dzus tabs welded to the wheels, the new tires mounted, and have the truck back on all fours, in a new and lower height.
I fabbed up a set of lowering blocks which will also move the rear axle back exactly 1" in the wheelwell. As Gregg can attest, doing the axle flip modification on a Rampage results in the entire axle moving forward in the wheelwell by 1" or so. The lowering blocks I've fabbed will correct this wheel centering issue. I'll try to get some pics uploaded later today or tomorrow.
I understand the concerns about axle wrap/hop on braking, and appreciate the input of the folks who have cautioned against the use of lowering blocks. For my Bonneville attempt, I've decided to go ahead with the lowering blocks. If I run on pavement, I'll need to add front brakes, and can change the rear lowering approach if needed at that time.
Steve.
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I've been meaning to ask you what a moon disc weighs?.
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Methinks you may have the wrong discs for Dzus tab installation -- can't see the dimples.
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You are correct, Stan. I am going to drill and dimple the disks. These are some lightly used, previously loved disks that I picked up on Ebay.
Here's a pretty neat little write-up on retrofitting the Dzus-style fasteners to screw-on disks...
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/1101sr_installing_moon_discs/viewall.html
As far as what the disks weigh - not very much.
Steve.
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Looking good, Steve! :cheers:
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Also, to clarify, the steering shaft goes into the column and that is what goes through the firewall. The column does not move.
Gregg
My bad on this post from last week.
I had not taken the plastic "bucket" off to see what was underneath and was going on ASSumption.
I took the "bucket" off yesterday and this part of the steering does indeed turn. The lowest part of the shaft is 1 1/2" and the upper part is 5/8".
Here is the pics that Steve originally posted:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1541_zpsca14033c.jpg)
It looks like the flange block bearing that Buddy posted would work.
Gregg
Just looking at this picture. I see you foot on the cage crossbar. Do you have provisions to keep your feet protected in the pedal area? It looks like you could end up with your feet in FRONT of the lower front cage legs? May just be the picture? I know they were pretty specific in that area when Tims was screwing the pickup together and he added a tube in the kickpanel area.
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Trent:
You are correct about the crossbar placement. I'm open for suggestions. As you can see on the left side of the photo, the wheelwell intrudes into the "foot box".
If this is going to be a problem, I need to get after a solution right now.
I'm going to send an email to SCTA.
Steve.
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Trent:
You are correct about the crossbar placement. I'm open for suggestions. As you can see on the left side of the photo, the wheelwell intrudes into the "foot box".
If this is going to be a problem, I need to get after a solution right now.
I'm going to send an email to SCTA.
Steve.
On #416 we have a "U" shaped tube layed on its side and welded to the front cage upright. That said our situation was a little different. Asking tech is your best bet.
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Email with photos has been sent.
There is not a lot of room between the pedals and the firewall on this thing. If I need more bars, I'm going to have to get very creative.
Steve.
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Email with photos has been sent.
There is not a lot of room between the pedals and the firewall on this thing. If I need more bars, I'm going to have to get very creative.
Steve.
You know what those tubular pickup bed extenders look like? I envision something like thatgoing forward and following the firewall from side to side.
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I have the same kind of vision if needed - a squared off "U" type shape to hug the firewall.
However, my mind's eye often sees more available space than really exists. I can sit around thinking about something - "yeah, that should fit in the space I'm thinking of.... Then when it comes time to actually put it in the available space, I realize that there's not as much room as I had envisioned.
Steve.
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OK - good news from SCTA - my cage is good to go as it sits.
Here's the promised photo of the lowering blocks I fabbed up - 6" x 2" rectangular tubing with "end caps" welded on. There is a locating hole on the bottom for the existing stud on the spring, and the head of an M10x1.5 bolt on the top side to locate the axle.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1582_zps2558297f.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1582_zps2558297f.jpg.html)
They will look a little nicer after some paint.
Steve.
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Thanks guys, the positive feedback keeps me energized and moving forward. By next weekend, I should have the Dzus tabs welded to the wheels, the new tires mounted, and have the truck back on all fours, in a new and lower height.
I fabbed up a set of lowering blocks which will also move the rear axle back exactly 1" in the wheelwell. As Gregg can attest, doing the axle flip modification on a Rampage results in the entire axle moving forward in the wheelwell by 1" or so. The lowering blocks I've fabbed will correct this wheel centering issue. I'll try to get some pics uploaded later today or tomorrow.
I understand the concerns about axle wrap/hop on braking, and appreciate the input of the folks who have cautioned against the use of lowering blocks. For my Bonneville attempt, I've decided to go ahead with the lowering blocks. If I run on pavement, I'll need to add front brakes, and can change the rear lowering approach if needed at that time.
Steve.
Steve, Can't wait to see the pics and the new height. As for your lowering blocks, I "think" I know what you have done.
Gregg
****EDIT****
You and I were posting at the same time. Thanks for the pic of the lowering block. This is what I thought you came up with. It's kinda like what the Rusty Rampage guy did on his only yours is less complicated.
GOOD JOB! :cheers:
Gregg
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Gregg:
You might have replied while I was posting pics of the lowering blocks.
Steve.
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Yep, see above post. Again, GOOD JOB! :cheers:
Gregg
P.S.
Did you by chance make me a pair?.....LMAO :-D
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Good news Steve :cheers:
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Happy Birthday, Steve!!!!
I hope you have a GREAT BIRTHDAY with many more to come! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
April is a good month as You, The Midget and me have B'Days within 2 weeks of each other!
Gregg
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Happy B'day Steve, Have a great day. you are definately in good company. My Dad's b'day is on 4/2, one day from an Arpil Fools baby, he loves it at 80years young.
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Happy birthday Steve. :cheers:
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:cheers: HAPPY BIRTHDAY, STEVE! :cheers:
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Steve,
Here is an FYI about the steering shaft:
If you remember me telling you, I'm replacing the power steering rack and shaft with a manual one from an Omni.
Yesterday, I took out my old steering shaft and replaced it with the manual one.
The 1st thing I noticed immediately was the shaft is the same size all the way at 5/8"......no 5/8" going to 1 1/2" like the power one.
This pic has both of the shafts:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4515_zps11cb03ea.jpg) (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/GKABBT/media/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4515_zps11cb03ea.jpg.html)
This pic is the new manual shaft:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4516_zpsedf57154.jpg) (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/GKABBT/media/Gregg%20Adams%20Land%20Speed%20Rampage/IMG_4516_zpsedf57154.jpg.html)
Since the manual shaft is the same size, a bearing block like Buddy suggested back on page 39 should be an easy arrangement.
As usual, hope this helps,
Gregg
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That's a win in any language. :cheers:
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Thanks for the Birthday wishes, everyone. I had a fantastic day.
More great information. Gregg - I have read that the input splines are different for the manual vs. power racks. Can you confirm or deny that statement?
I guess you found a steering shaft for a manual-rack Omni in a junkyard somewhere?
I had considered buying a manual rack, but haven't yet. I was just planning to "loop" the hydraulic lines on this power rack. It seems to turn pretty easily, even without the power assist.
Steve.
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I have read that the input splines are different for the manual vs. power racks. Can you confirm or deny that statement?
I guess you found a steering shaft for a manual-rack Omni in a junkyard somewhere?
I had considered buying a manual rack, but haven't yet. I was just planning to "loop" the hydraulic lines on this power rack. It seems to turn pretty easily, even without the power assist.
The splines are definately different. The power steering one has 37 splines and is approximately 3/4" and the manual one is 17 splines and is approximately 5/8".
I got my Omni manual steering rack from a Turbo-Mopar member here in NC about 1 1/2 years ago.
You should be fine with doing the "loop" on your rack. The reason I wanted the manual is for the slower steering ratio.
Gregg
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OK - I managed another baby step yesterday... The Moon weld jig arrived via UPS. I have to give a big THANK YOU to Mooneyes for providing the loaner service on their Dzus tab weld jig.
The jig was straightforward and easy to use. I managed to get all the tabs welded in place without ruining any parts or pieces.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1586_zps2b7f5a66.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1586_zps2b7f5a66.jpg.html)
Now, I need to drill and dimple the Moon disks that I bought from ebay. With any luck, I can get that job done before I go to sleep tonight.
Next up will be some paint for the wheels, then take them back to Western Auto to get my new tires mounted.
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Don't forget -- when you have the tire/wheels balanced -- the weights will all have to be on the inside. They'd interfere with the discs if the weights are outer-rim mounted. It'll take your tire vendor a bit of extra fiddlin', no doubt -- but it'll save you having the "Oh, crap!" moment when you try installing the discs the first time.
As always -- don't ask me how I know. :roll:
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Slim - thanks for the reminder. I had already given that issue consideration, but your post helps to reinforce the fact that all the weights need to go on the inside.
My tire guy also has the "short" metal valvestems ready and waiting.
Steve.
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They can use tape weights on the front side.
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Ya got me there - again, Stan. I was thinking of putting the discs on street vehicles -- where crimp-on weights are the norm. Sure, on a race vehicle, tape weights on either in or out side would oughta should probably maybe be most likely okay. Got that?
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Got it. You guys are correct, there is enough of a "lip" for stick-on weights on the outside.
Steve.
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I place duct tape over the weights.
It not only helps hold them in place but you do not have to wonder if any of them went missing.
Don
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One for the Rampage folks
http://sd.craigslist.org/cto/3746122750.html
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You'd better be careful, Trent. Once you start looking at these things, it's a very short trip to owning one.
If you decide to buy, try to find the most rust-free example you can get your hands on. It would be worth the road trip to CA or AZ if you can find a non-rusty specimen.
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You'd better be careful, Trent. Once you start looking at these things, it's a very short trip to owning one.
If you decide to buy, try to find the most rust-free example you can get your hands on. It would be worth the road trip to CA or AZ if you can find a non-rusty specimen.
Rapid City and the Black Hills are better than those places anyway. We have a high desert climate with very little precip.
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Moving right along Steve! Keep at it! Your wheels turned out nice!
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One for the Rampage folks
http://sd.craigslist.org/cto/3746122750.html
Trent, count me out on this one as my current Rampage has been and continues to drain me of $$$$$..... :-o :evil: :-D
Gregg
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Here's another quick update...
I went to my kids' art show and summer concert at school this evening - it was a good time. Nice artwork, and the school band is getting pretty good. They played a version of "Smoke on the Water" that was really good.
When I got home, I caught my second wind and got out into the garage to make a little more progress
I managed to get the Moon disks drilled, dimpled, and Dzus'ed to the wheels.
I have always wanted a set of genuine Moon disks, and now I do.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1588_zps64a7c546.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1588_zps64a7c546.jpg.html)
My next short term goal is to get the wheels painted, and get the tires mounted by the end of the week.
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:cheers:Steve,lookin good :cheers:
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Baby steps, but I managed to get the wheels changed to a shiny orange color last night.
(semi-crummy cell phone pic).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/orangewheels_zps2445260d.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/orangewheels_zps2445260d.jpg.html)
Tires and balancing are on the books for tomorrow.
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Red Hot Chilli. Great color but it's a pity the moon discs will cover them. Steve, do you have a day job?. You are on this 24/7. I'm only here for the pics and you keep me coming back every day. :-D I can't wait to see the final product. Thanks.
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I do have a "day job", although sometimes it's at night, and sometimes on the weekend. The sheepskin on the wall says Metallurgical Engineer. My business card says Plant Manager. In day to day function, I'm a salesman, production planner, personal life counselor, rules enforcer, fork truck driver, welder, and general get-r-done guy. I'm also personal liason with our shipping folks, ensuring that all of my personal packages are delivered promptly and without damage.
Today, the UPS man brought another important element - a 3 gallon fuel cell. It's never had fuel in it, just smells like fresh aluminum and anti-slosh foam inside....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/fuelcell_zps07af6972.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/fuelcell_zps07af6972.jpg.html)
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Is that foam diesel compatible?
I have seen foam break down over time in gas engines even and wreak havok on the fuel system.
a surge tank is about the best only solution along with creative baffling to limit air ingestion without any foam failures.
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I have wondered about the foam issue myself. I think I'll pull it out.
This thing is 3 gallons, which should be plenty to prevent air ingestion / sloshing / aereation problems with a 1.5 Liter diesel.
Steve.
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Thanks Steve. Good luck with all the nice new stuff. You deserve it man.
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In my ongoing quest to max out all of my credit cards, I purchased a set of Gabriel HiJacker air shocks for the rear suspension.
These are cute little guys - as far as I can tell, they are the shortest available air shocks from the Gabriel or Monroe catalogs.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/hijackers_zps370818ba.jpg)
Sadly, they no longer include the Gabriel HiJacker "bunny" sticker with their product.
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More quick pics.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1603_zps2b8aedc3.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1603_zps2b8aedc3.jpg.html)
I picked up the wheels and tires today, fresh from Western Auto, complete with metal valve stems.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1604_zpsb7565210.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1610_zps958c7341.jpg)
I had to mount the wheels, pop on the Moon disks, and put her back on the ground. Right now, the front crossmember and oil pan are about 3" from the ground. The lowest point on the control arms is about 2-1/2" from the ground. I'm thinking about trying to get another 1" of drop by re-working the coilover setup.
Steve
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Looks fast just sitting there!!!
Rex
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:cheers: That must be a great feeling. It looks good Steve.
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Looks fast just sitting there!!! Rex
I agree Rex!
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1610_zps958c7341.jpg)
Steve, looking REAL GOOD.....It does look fast too! :cheers:
Just curious.....Are the control arms pointing up, parallel to the ground or pointing down?
Gregg
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They are pointing up, which is not considered good for "handling", but I think this will be OK, as the control arms should remain pointed up through the entire range of motion.
Steve.
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Steve, i am positive you will be fine, especially at the speeds you have planned.
I had a 550 hp 89 plymouth colt that was lowered, and control arms pointed up pretty sharply. Even north of 145 on public highways ( not smooth) it had no ill handling issues. It was mighty stable (except for torque steer)
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Thanks, Crackerman. Did you have one of those turbo twin-stick Colts? I can't remember which years they were available, but they were pretty cool little cars.
Yeah, I'm not very worried about the front suspension geometry. It seems to me that the main issues would be associated with a transition from pointed down to pointed up, as the camber curves change. Mine will be pointed up the entire time.
The question running around in my head is "How Low" should/could I go. Right now, the lowest point is in the area of the pivot for the LCA, which is about 2-1/2" from the ground. I'm thinking about going another inch lower, which would put this pivot location at 1-1/2" from the surface.
For getting off and on the trailer, I'll have to make a couple of easily removable split sleeves, which will space the coilovers "up" on the strut body. Then, when it's on level ground, I'll jack it up, remove the sleeves, and let it down to the full droop geometry.
Steve.
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Of all the things discussed on landracing forums Dodge Colts were about the last thing I ever expected to turn up. I had an 88 colt 4 speed. I have to say it was the most fun car I have owned, but by no means fast. I've always heard about the twin stick colts and wanted one.
Kevin G
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Steve maybe the geometry thing is more critical on a road course car.
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1 1/2 to 2" and you will be grading crunchies if you get off the turn outs.
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1 1/2 to 2" and you will be grading crunchies if you get off the turn outs.
But you will be limiting the air going under the truck on the course.... We usually try to put the front of the lakester high enough that you can slip the toe of your shoe to the laces under it. Rarely hit a turnout correctly, the salt is hard on the paint, but washes off.
Have the back a bit higher than the front, give the air that gets under it somewhere to go.
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Steve, no. I did not have a twin stick colt. I have only seen one in the junkyards. Mine was one of 1600 imported into north america. Colt gt turbo with the mitsu 4g61t. Which i swapped for a 63t. Colts are much like mopar kcars. No parts made specifically for them, but easily adaptable from mitsu eclipse, galant vr4 and hyundai elantras and sonatas.
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PM sent.
Gregg
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... a few more updates:
1 - I took my side windows to Jerry Bickel's shop, where they are going to use my windows to create a template for future Rampage / Shelby Charger polycarbonate window mounting applications. They will do the frames, tabs, and mounting brackets for the polycarb. I will cut the windows myself, and may try to curve them in a heat treat furnace at work.
2 - Last night, I had a buddy stop by to help for a couple of hours. He spent his time sanding the body parts, prepping for paint. I spent my time cutting the old shock mounts off the rear axle, and welding on new shock mounts to support the Gabriel HiJacker air shocks. (Sorry, no pics of the shock mounts yet, I was too busy cutting, grinding, welding, and cussing to take any photos).
3 - I spend some time noodling on the window net requirements. Here's a pic of the window/door opening...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1614_zps94fa485c.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1614_zps94fa485c.jpg.html)
What I haven't been able to figure out is a good location for the latch hardware. The absolute top of the opening is about 14". I think I will need to move the upper window net bar down a little bit, maybe to the point where the net would be 16" long across the top.
The bottom part of the net will need to be about 24" (The opening is 27" across the bottom).
I'm open for suggestions regarding the upper bar rod and hardware, as well as any alternative solutions to the common "seat belt" style latch.
Please help with your advice regarding the window net mounting.
STeve.
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Not much time for pics right now, but here's one after the air shocks have been installed and aired-up, along with the nose piece being installed, and some of the body prep being done.
I'm planning to paint it on Mother's Day weekend, and there's plenty to do between now and then...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1616_zps8f3df7b0.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1616_zps8f3df7b0.jpg.html)
Steve
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Just ordered my window net from M&R. They were very friendly and easy to deal with for a custom net.
Waiting to take delivery of a "dune buggy" style master cylinder and the sublime green paint.
Paint is going on next weekend. Hopefully, I will have functional brakes before then.
Steve.
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Paint's here. Eastwood single-stage urethane, SubLime / LimeLight.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1617_zpsb1f27091.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1617_zpsb1f27091.jpg.html)
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You have a fresh air suit to spray that? Lots of us have gotten away with less but isocyantes are nasty. I would give it some thought, maybe see if you can rent one?
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I have some industrial friends with a Rackal (sp?) helmet and air supply I can borrow.
Steve.
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Steve,
As a painter in a former life....just make sure the compressor for the paint hood (fresh air supply) is as far away from the paint room as possible. Believe it or not I have seem some people put it right outside the exhaust duct for the paint booth. If you are doing this at home put the supply where no fumes or overspray can get to it. Good luck, excited to see the results.
Monte.
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Good thinking, Monte. I won't be painting at home (I know better than to poke the Queen with a sharp pointy stick).
It will be at a commercial garage location which is not specifically set up as a paint booth, but will be used as such, with a lot of air volume and a fresh air supply from outside the painting area.
Steve.
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Good thinking, Monte. I won't be painting at home (I know better than to poke the Queen with a sharp pointy stick).
I thought poking the Queen was a good thing... sorry I could not resist. Interested to see how that single stage stuff works for you as Amy (the Queen/Driver) is getting real tired of flat black.
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Sounds like you have it covered :cheers:
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Looking forward to the finished paint scheme! Car is coming along nicely! :cheers:
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I'm a budget paint-job kind of guy. In the past, I have always used enamels, sometimes catalyzed, sometimes not. Sometimes with clear, sometimes not.
I've only done 5 or 6 auto paint jobs. They normally turn out pretty good by my standards. Not professional quality, but good for my needs and budget. I don't like to spend more than $200 on paint materials for a job. I'm not painting Bentleys, Rolls Royces, or '70 Hemi Cudas.
After doing some reading, I'm going to try the Eastwood kit. Word on the street is that the urethane is a bit more forgiving and durable than enamel. No clear coat will be used. That will save me some money, and allow for easier touch-ups in the future. For the price ($122 for the gallon kit, including the activator and shipping), I figure I can't go wrong. I already have enough left-over primer-sealer for the job. I bought a quart of flat black Rust-Oleum for the hood.
I'm planning to do the entire body in Sublime Green, with a flat black hood (nostalgia Mopar style). There are some local pinstriper / signpainter guys who I would like to recruit to paint the numbers on the side, and maybe add a few pinstripe highlights. We'll have to see if I can pull that together in time.
Steve
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You will do fine and really like the urethane. I painted my T with it, solids can even be cut and buffed
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I'm looking forward to trying the urethane.
On a semi-related, note, I received the master cylinder from Latest Rage today. If I devote enough time this weekend, I can have functioning brakes for loading and unloading the Rampage from the trailer.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/MasterCyl_zpsa43f2207.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/MasterCyl_zpsa43f2207.jpg.html)
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How much was that master cylinder? I have found some like that by wilwood in the summit catalog for 50 bucks or so. I will be needing to find something small soon to build a dual caliper rear disc setup for my brothers 72 riviera.
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Sublime Green hey! That sounds like a real stand out color. I bet it's going to look great. Steve, your build just keeps gathering momentum. You are a determined guy and a huge inspiration. Thanks man. :cheers:
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You are a determined guy and a huge inspiration. Thanks man. :cheers:
Steve, gotta agree with what Mike said. Gittin' R done.....LOL! :-D
Gregg
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The master cylinder was $55, including shipping from Latest Rage. They are a pretty big name in the dune buggy world.
Gregg - good news - I went back up to Jerry Bickel's yesterday afternoon and picked up the window frames. I also snagged a window net mounting kit while I was there.
I hope to have a go at forming the Polycarbonate windows this week.
Pics to follow.
Steve.
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Steve, looks good, let me know if I can help with anything. Just got back from a quick gravel grinder on the Masi cross bike. Spring finally got here after a winters worth of snow in 3 weeks. Too steep SS gearin, no miles on the legs, headwind and rolling hills made for a brutal ride. Got to that point coming up the last hill where you are wobbly and right on the edge................flat bikepath gearing needs to go for this spin type rider. On a good note my sinuses are better than they have been in weeks.
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Nonstop rain all weekend kept me off my bicycle. Instead, I spent many hours doing body prep work and sanding the Rampage in anticipation of painting next Saturday.
The Rampage is pretty much ready for paint at this point. My garage looks like the Oklahoma dust bowl, however.
I did manage to find some time this morning to try my hand at hot-forming polycarbonate. I think I have a plan that will work for the side windows...
Here's the result of hot-forming a small test piece. It took the shape properly, and didn't "bubble".
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/curvedlexan_zps303d3236.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/curvedlexan_zps303d3236.jpg.html)
Over the next couple of days, I plan to use my OEM side windows as a buck mold, and make up some polycarbonate replacements.
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Dusty.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/dusty_zpsa291dc7c.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/dusty_zpsa291dc7c.jpg.html)
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Glass looks good, new side business?!
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Dusty.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/dusty_zpsa291dc7c.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/dusty_zpsa291dc7c.jpg.html)
My garage looks kind of the same way after cleaning the underside. Crap everywhere but at least that job is finished! Now I'm cleaning the garage.....again!
Gregg
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Here's the result of hot-forming a small test piece. It took the shape properly, and didn't "bubble".
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/curvedlexan_zps303d3236.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/curvedlexan_zps303d3236.jpg.html)
Over the next couple of days, I plan to use my OEM side windows as a buck mold, and make up some polycarbonate replacements.
Steve, Test piece looks good! Glad there were not any issues!
Gregg
Glass looks good, new side business?!
Trent, I know where Steve's 1st customer lives! :evil: :-) :-D :cheers:
Gregg
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The test piece turned out fine. The real deal will go into the oven later this week (I'm having our maintenance crew make sure the furnace is 100% up to snuff before using it on the Rampage windows).
Last time we used the big furnace (when I baked the paint on my rollcage), it kept shutting off and would have to be re-set. I don't want that hassle for the windows. It's a win-win. The company gets the assurance that the furnace is working properly for stress-relieving coils of steel, and my Rampage windows get to be the guinea pigs.
To make the pattern for the polycarbonate, I used the OEM window to make a cardboard template, then added 3/4" width to all dimensions on the poly. The polycarbonate will shrink a small amount when heated, and then I'm planning to trim the excess after it's in the proper shape.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Lexanpattern_zps2b8fb745.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/Lexanpattern_zps2b8fb745.jpg.html)
Steve.
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Windows just went in the oven!
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A few quick pics...
The blue box - you could cook a lot of pizzas in this thing...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1620_zps91822648.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1620_zps91822648.jpg.html)
...and the first pair of molded polycarbonate windows for an '84 Rampage...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1621_zps031974cf.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1621_zps031974cf.jpg.html)
They turned out pretty good. The overall curve matches perfectly. The only area where I'd like to see some improvement is the molding around the OEM fasteners at the bottom of the glass. Since I'm not planning to do roll-up windows, this won't be a factor, but if someone was looking for drop-in, bolt-in replacements, this could be an issue.
I could go hotter on the temperature, but if I fly too close to the sun, the polycarbonate will bubble. Apparently, the "bubble zone" is a very fine line, and I'd prefer not to cross it.
Steve.
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Excellent work there Steve. You're a natural, most guys that have tried that process cooked their jobs. :cheers:
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I did some research, and tried some small test pieces before jumping to the larger sheets.
Here's my "recipe" for anyone who wants to try it...
1. PRE-HEAT the oven. This step is critical. If you don't pre-heat, the oven will ramp up and overshoot the target temperature, resultin in a bubbled mess. I learned this in my "small test piece" phase.
2. I used a target temp of 260F initially, then took it just a tad higher, to 265F. I let it hold at temperature for just over 2 hrs. VERIFY the temperature with a Ray-Tech or similar temperature measuring device. If you are using a conventional kitchen oven, do not trust the temperature on the dial. On our "shop" oven, I found that the dial needed to be down around 190F in order to achieve an internal temperature of 250F.
3. A little bit of weight applied to the free end of the polycarbonate will help it to sag into the correct shape. I used a 2 foot long piece of Unistrut (maybe a 3-5 pounds) to add weight.
Steve.
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Steve,
Looking good and as Mike posted.....EXCELLENT work! :cheers:
You just have WAY to many cools toys at your disposal!
Gregg
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I have always had day jobs which allowed me access to a wide variety of industrial equipment in steel mills, machine shops, foundries, and now in a steel fabrication plant. I have also made it a point to take advantage of those opportunities. I'm happy about those opportunities.
I'm not sure that I could be satisfied working a job where I wasn't afforded full access to all the toys.
I still have one more set of windows to bake, hopefully I can get then run this afternoon. I can't let any grass grow under my feet, World Of Speed is going to be here in a hurry.
Steve.
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I'm not sure that I could be satisfied working a job where I wasn't afforded full access to all the toys.
I still have one more set of windows to bake, hopefully I can get then run this afternoon.
I can't let any grass grow under my feet, World Of Speed is going to be here in a hurry.
Steve.
Just be glad you didn't get in the IT field. 33+ years for me and most of it was fun but no cool toys like you! 8-)
I wonder who the other windows are for? :? :lol:
I've made up my mind and if I don't have my truck ready for the ECTA September event, you have another crew member at WoS! :-D
Gregg
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Another set of crew hands would be fantastic, especially if you are willing to learn the inner workings of VW 020 4-speed transmissions.
I keep running through different top gear and R&P combos on paper and in my head.
Steve.
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Hi Steve
I've put together a bit of an excel spreadsheet that lets you play with gearbox, final drive ratios and tyres sizes.
If you have a Dyno curve it can show you what force you have at the the wheel.
It's in bike terminology but you just need to put in ring and pinion tooth count rather than sprockets, it also works for twin gearboxes but if you just set the secondary to 1:1 it doesn't effect anything.
Can send you a copy if you want.
jon
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Another set of crew hands would be fantastic, especially if you are willing to learn the inner workings of VW 020 4-speed transmissions.
I keep running through different top gear and R&P combos on paper and in my head.
Steve.
This is why I decided to run the automatic in my truck. Four different transfer gears using either of two R&P ratios gives eight possible final drive ratios from 2.60 to 3.72.
Possible final drive ratios:
2.60---- .91 transfer and 2.86 ring
2.97----1.04 transfer and 2.86 ring
3.02----1.06 transfer and 2.86 ring
3.50----1.22 transfer and 2.86 ring
2.78---- .91 transfer and 3.05 ring
3.17----1.04 transfer and 3.05 ring
3.22----1.06 transfer and 3.05 ring
3.72----1.22 transfer and 3.05 ring
Transfer gears can be swapped out in 15 minutes.....kind of like a mini quick change!
I know it's late in the game for you Steve but wouldn't an automatic from a 1.7L Omni bolt to your engine?
If it would bolt up, the automatic might give you a final drive ratio better suited to your engine instead of the manual.
Also, I "think" a lockup TC is available although I'm really not sure for the 1.7L stuff. (A lockup TC is in the automatic I'm going to run.)
Just a thought. :evil: :-o :-D
Gregg
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Hi Steve
I've put together a bit of an excel spreadsheet that lets you play with gearbox, final drive ratios and tyres sizes.
If you have a Dyno curve it can show you what force you have at the the wheel.
It's in bike terminology but you just need to put in ring and pinion tooth count rather than sprockets, it also works for twin gearboxes but if you just set the secondary to 1:1 it doesn't effect anything.
Can send you a copy if you want.
jon
Jon and Steve,
Here is an pretty good online calculator that has been posted before:
http://www.squirrelpf.com/gearingcalc/index.php
This has both gearing and turbo sizing and you can also download it in excel as well.
Gregg
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Thanks guys, for the advice. I have a couple of spreadsheets to do the calculations. The math is not the problem. I'm just trying to use logic and dead-reckoning to put my best foot forward on my first shot. It's kind of a scramble for me to get this truck done in time, so there may not be time in the schedule for a dyno session.
Trying to figure out the right RPM range for a 1.5L turbodiesel to hit at the target speeds is the challenge swirling in my mind.
I'm planning to put my best guess transmission in the truck, but bring at least 1 spare with a different gearset, and possibly a 3rd transmission, depending on what kind of speed I can achieve with the first setup.
Later 'yall.
Steve.
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Remember, your first time out will be spent working on rookie orientation and licensing runs for at least a couple days.
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Thanks guys, for the advice. I have a couple of spreadsheets to do the calculations. The math is not the problem. I'm just trying to use logic and dead-reckoning to put my best foot forward on my first shot. It's kind of a scramble for me to get this truck done in time, so there may not be time in the schedule for a dyno session.
Trying to figure out the right RPM range for a 1.5L turbodiesel to hit at the target speeds is the challenge swirling in my mind.
I'm planning to put my best guess transmission in the truck, but bring at least 1 spare with a different gearset, and possibly a 3rd transmission, depending on what kind of speed I can achieve with the first setup.
Later 'yall.
Steve.
What trans are you planning on utilizing? The rabbit 4K trans is pretty stout for OEM. As for
skipping a dyno session, better to break it on the rollers than break it on the salt. My $.02...
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Yep, 4 speed 020. I have a GP, GC, and several GM code trannies, in addition to an FN code 5-speed. I also have a separate set of 0.91 4th gears that I want to swap into one of the GM's. The GM code are OEM Dodge Omni transaxles, with a 3.48 R&P.
I certainly want to get onto a chassis dyno before September. At this point, however, I just have to make my best guess as to which trans to put in the truck for the shakedown runs. I don't want to have to swap trannies if I don't have to. There's also a chance that I might have time to run it on the 1/4 mile track at Gateway International. It won't be much of a dragster, but power can be inferred from 1/4 mile speed.
I need to brush up on the number of rookie and licensing runs to expect before I can let it all hang out.. I think that a rule change was put into effect for classes where the record is under 150mph. Something along the lines of a licensing pass also being eligible for a record run (again, I need to check the rulebook on that one).
For now, I spent the evening clearing up some loose ends before painting the Rampage on Saturday.
Steve.
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Rule 1.F - changed for 2013
1.F
QUALIFYING:
Add new sentence:
At Bonneville a rookie driver/rider may qualify for a record
on their rookie run if the exi
sting record is less than 150
MPH.
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:-D
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The paint has been applied. I think it's going to look great. This is probably the best paint job that has ever been applied by my hands.
The Eastwood urethane kit was fantastic. The paint flowed out great, no runs, fantastic coverage. Here's a quick pictorial of the process...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1624_zpsc7b1a21f.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1624_zpsc7b1a21f.jpg.html)
Step 1 - haul it across town.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1626_zps57a27f01.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1626_zps57a27f01.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1627_zps275eab8a.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1627_zps275eab8a.jpg.html)
Step 2 - roll it into the shop.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1632_zpseffd9106.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1632_zpseffd9106.jpg.html)
Step 3 - put it on jackstands and mask it.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1635_zpsbf13d8d2.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1635_zpsbf13d8d2.jpg.html)
Step 4 - lay everything out and wipe it all down..
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1639_zpsd34d6c87.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1639_zpsd34d6c87.jpg.html)
Step 5 - wet down the floor, then shoot the primer/sealer
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1640_zpsb1b18642.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1640_zpsb1b18642.jpg.html)
Primer/sealer continued....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1642_zps7ed88131.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1642_zps7ed88131.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1643_zps6e51843f.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1643_zps6e51843f.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1644_zps5121c4fc.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1644_zps5121c4fc.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1644_zps5121c4fc.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1644_zps5121c4fc.jpg.html)
Step whatever - shoot the color...
Now I'm onto the "clean up the home garage" phase, so that I can bring the green rampage back to a happy, clean home.
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looks awesome...
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Looks fantastic! I know getting to this point was a lot of hours. :cheers: to you.
What was the solvent for the paint?
Geo
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That should make everyone "green" with envy.
Looks great!
Looking forward to seeing you at World of Speed this year.
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It ain't easy being green...............
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Thanks for the support guys. I'm very happy with the paint job. :-D
The paint was a single-stage urethane from Eastwood. Very easy stuff to work with. There was no thinner required, just the paint and the hardener. 3 parts paint to 1 part activator made it super simple. Gone are the days of 8 parts of this, 3 parts of that, and 1 part of another thing. That stuff is too easy to screw up.
I have only shot old-school laquers and enamels in the past. I will not be going back to those materials. This stuff flowed out great, layed down smooth, and was very tolerant of runs. There are no runs or sags in this paint job, which is a first for me.
I'll go over to the shop tomorrow morning to bring all the freshly painted green goodness home.
I feel like this was a pretty significant milestone. Next up will be the drivetrain assembly, and brakes.
Items still to be completed - everything else.
Steve.
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Looks great, Steve. Thanks for your opinion of the Eastwood urethane; I don't know of anyone else who has tried it so yours is the first I've heard.
Green...? How about approaching GEICO for sponsorship? Seriously.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Ooooohhh . . .
Freshly Minted! :wink:
That color RULES! :cheers:
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Turned out absolutely FANTISTIC Steve! Love the COLOR! :cheers:
Gregg
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IT's GREEEEEEEEN. Should be esy to spot from about a jillion miles away :-D
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Got up early, went over to the shop, retrieved all the green goodness, cleaned up the shop, and rolled her home. Dig it.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1648_zps5288e6da.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1648_zps5288e6da.jpg.html)
The nose piece is just loosely bolted on at this point. It will take some careful alignment work to get it looking more "correct"
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1647_zps1778ccec.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1647_zps1778ccec.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1649_zps1a67fa77.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1649_zps1a67fa77.jpg.html)
It's a little tough to tell from the pics, but the paint has a very good gloss, just as it sits. After it cures a while longer, I may polish it to an even better shine.
Steve.
PS - now it's on to the regularly scheduled Mother's Day activities.
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I am green with envy! Looks killer :cheers:
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Steve, that mint green looks perfect on the pickup! :cheers:
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AWESOME Steve!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Right arm! Great job, looks killer :cheers:
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The stance of this thing is just perfect - low, sleek and aggressive.
Pat yourself on the back - that's one impressive looking ride. :cheers:
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That thing is purty!!
Time to update the avatar picture!
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Nicely done Steve. It looks RIGHT!!!! :cheers:
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OK - just a few more pics... :-D
I couldn't be more pleased with the way this turned out. This thing is so far out, it looks like it just landed from another planet.
One of my friends suggested orange tint on the lexan. I think I might just go for it...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1656_zps30240c04.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1656_zps30240c04.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1653_zps60b83458.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1653_zps60b83458.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1652_zpsbf48d309.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1652_zpsbf48d309.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1655_zpsc02fa481.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1655_zpsc02fa481.jpg.html)
The receiver hitch will get the same flat black treatment as the hood.
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It looks like a winner to me. 8-)
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Steve
Nice job. Color will look outstanding against the white salt.
The rake looks just right. Now comes the fun part. The mechanics.
Thanks for sharing.
BR
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Suhweet! 8-)
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Awesome man! Awesome!
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Amazing how much that car and my Mustang have the same front end design.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1647_zps1778ccec.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1647_zps1778ccec.jpg.html)
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/saltracer1/ScrapIron%20II/DSC03243.jpg) (http://s264.photobucket.com/user/saltracer1/media/ScrapIron%20II/DSC03243.jpg.html)
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Indeed. :-o The Rampage is an '84. What year is the Mustang?
Steve.
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I vote for the orange windows!
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Yes!
Dark green would simply not be garish enuf!
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Window net arrived today. Boring black color. :evil:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/WindowNet_zpsb3c21794.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/WindowNet_zpsb3c21794.jpg.html)
The green & orange is a theme I've got working. I know I've posted some of these pics before, but the cycling team I race on (Cannonball / Hub Cycling) has a lot of orange & green on our team kits (jerseys and shorts). I'm trying to keep this color combo working.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/QueenyCross2.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/QueenyCross2.jpg.html)
PS - the cyclocross pic is from last season. Our new "team" helmets are black and green, and the new team shoes are white and green.
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So whats up with the manly pink bike. :-D
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That's actually my wife's bike. I had loaned my cyclocross bike out to a newcomer to the sport, and my wife was generous enough to let me race hers.
Steve.
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Good cover story, Steve. :evil: :evil:
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O K
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If Captain Dondo can rock a pink bike I see nothing wrong with it! We could weird some of these guys out with leg shaving info however :-D
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Here's one you might enjoy, from this year's Halloween 'Cross race. I was dressed as a fairy princess.
I also took a beer handup on every single lap.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Pinkfairy_zps187c3fd3.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/Pinkfairy_zps187c3fd3.jpg.html)
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Cross-dressers racing?
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Cross-dressers racing?
It is actually Cyclo-cross but the copious amounts of beer have strange affects :-o
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Imagine this.... It's a cold night in late October. You are riding a bicycle as hard as you can possibly muster for 9 or 10 laps of a difficult on/off road course with impossible to navigate obstacles (you have to ocassionally dismount and run with the bike). This involves getting your heart rate to it's absolute maximum value for something like 45 minutes straight. People along the course are drinking beer and heckling you the entire time. The crowd is getting drunker and drunker as the night goes on.
Near the finish line, on each lap, there is a woman holding out a foamy cup of PBR. As you ride by at maybe 15-20 mph, you reach out a hand to grab a cup of foamy PBR and chug it before you pass the race official's station. If you bobble the pass, the heckling will greatly intensify. Your mind becomes a foamy swirl. You want the race to be over, but you just keep going as hard as you can.
It's Halloween, and you are surrounded by an increasingly drunken crowd, most of whom are extremely fit bike-racer types. Many of the women are wearing "Naughty Girl" type costumes. THIS IS FUN!!! The woman in this photo is not wearing a naughty costume.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/PostRacePrincess_zps997d9233.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/PostRacePrincess_zps997d9233.jpg.html)
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It might be a good idea for you guys to get together and pit somewhere past the four.
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Imagine this.... It's a cold night in late October. You are riding a bicycle as hard as you can possibly muster for 9 or 10 laps of a difficult on/off road course with impossible to navigate obstacles (you have to ocassionally dismount and run with the bike). This involves getting your heart rate to it's absolute maximum value for something like 45 minutes straight. People along the course are drinking beer and heckling you the entire time. The crowd is getting drunker and drunker as the night goes on.
Near the finish line, on each lap, there is a woman holding out a foamy cup of PBR. As you ride by at maybe 15-20 mph, you reach out a hand to grab a cup of foamy PBR and chug it before you pass the race official's station. If you bobble the pass, the heckling will greatly intensify. Your mind becomes a foamy swirl. You want the race to be over, but you just keep going as hard as you can.
It's Halloween, and you are surrounded by an increasingly drunken crowd, most of whom are extremely fit bike-racer types. Many of the women are wearing "Naughty Girl" type costumes. THIS IS FUN!!! The woman in this photo is not wearing a naughty costume.
Sounds a lot like the White Goose Bar?! :-D
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/PostRacePrincess_zps997d9233.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/PostRacePrincess_zps997d9233.jpg.html)
STEVE.....DUDE!!!!!
What has been seen cannot be unseen! :-o
Maybe the truck should have been painted Dodge Panther Pink or Plymouth Moulin Rouge.
Looks like that color would go well with your outfit! :evil: :lol: :-D
ROTFLMAO,
Gregg
P.S.
Paint code for that color is FM3.....LOL! :-D
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It might be a good idea for you guys to get together and pit somewhere past the four.
Stan,
Does "somewhere past the four" mean four miles East of SLC? :evil: :lol: :-D
ROTFLMAO,
Gregg
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Imagine this.... It's a cold night in late October. You are riding a bicycle as hard as you can possibly muster for 9 or 10 laps of a difficult on/off road course with impossible to navigate obstacles (you have to ocassionally dismount and run with the bike). This involves getting your heart rate to it's absolute maximum value for something like 45 minutes straight. People along the course are drinking beer and heckling you the entire time. The crowd is getting drunker and drunker as the night goes on.
Near the finish line, on each lap, there is a woman holding out a foamy cup of PBR. As you ride by at maybe 15-20 mph, you reach out a hand to grab a cup of foamy PBR and chug it before you pass the race official's station. If you bobble the pass, the heckling will greatly intensify. Your mind becomes a foamy swirl. You want the race to be over, but you just keep going as hard as you can.
It's Halloween, and you are surrounded by an increasingly drunken crowd, most of whom are extremely fit bike-racer types. Many of the women are wearing "Naughty Girl" type costumes. THIS IS FUN!!! The woman in this photo is not wearing a naughty costume.
Just kidding with above posts..... :-D :-D :-D
This really does look like fun and in true landracingracing.com build diary fashion, BEER is involved! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Gregg
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The Rampage is an '84. What year is the Mustang?
the Mustang's a '85. Phil
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We could weird some of these guys out with leg shaving info however :-D
Trent,
Kinda like what I posted to Steve: What has been read cannot be unread! :-o :-D
Gregg
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Now thats class :cheers:
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Pink gives you wings. :-D
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I didn't get a whole lotta time to work on the Rampage over the weekend, but did manage to squeeze in a few hours yesterday.
It's time for a couple of quick pics. I'm starting to work on the engine assembly. First up was a paint job for the block. I went with a light machinery gray color. This is the same color and paint that I used for most of the suspension components.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1701_zps39bde235.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1701_zps39bde235.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1693_zpse341c442.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1693_zpse341c442.jpg.html)
Depending on the weather, I might find some time for real assembly this evening.
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I have been following your build, since the beginning. The car is looking fantastic and your workmanship is superb. Keep up the great work!! I love the green color!!
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Thanks, Skywalker. It's one of those situations where I feel like the workmanship is OK, but I can see all of the flaws. Looking back at each step, I can usually identify something that I think I could have done better.
The proof will be in September.
Steve.
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Thanks, Skywalker. It's one of those situations where I feel like the workmanship is OK, but I can see all of the flaws. Looking back at each step, I can usually identify something that I think I could have done better.
The proof will be in September.
Steve.
No matter how many things one builds, that's always the case. It's why the next build is better-- you learn how to do things better from the previous one.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Thanks, Neil.
Look what arrived in the mail today - an original sales brochure for the 1984 line of Dodge mini trucks...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Rampagebrochure1_zpsa91449ab.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/Rampagebrochure1_zpsa91449ab.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Rampagebrochure2_zps955003ef.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/Rampagebrochure2_zps955003ef.jpg.html)
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C'mon, show us the page where they have the bright green truck. Or if they don't have a real photo of it, show us the color chart where you could select the bilious color for the truck you have 'em build for you. :-D
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The mid-80's were not a vibrant time in terms of Mopar's color offerings. Here's the color chart for an '84 Rampage...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/ColorChart_zpsa575d4e8.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/ColorChart_zpsa575d4e8.jpg.html)
The Ultrashield full containment seat was not an option, either. You could get cloth, or vinyl. For an '84 Rampage, Rich Corinthian Leather was not available from the factory
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/interioroptions_zps717364b2.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/interioroptions_zps717364b2.jpg.html)
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Whatsa Power Ram?
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Power Ram appears to be a 4 wheel drive version of the D-50. I didn't know, either, until the brochure arrived yesterday.
Last night I managed to get the short block assembled. These VW diesels are pretty particular about head gaskets. The bottom end needs to be built, and the piston protrusion measured before the head gasket can be selected. If the head gasket is too thin, the pistons hit the head. If the head gasket is too thick, the C.R. will be off. For a stock 1.5L non-turbo diesel, the stock C.R. is right at 25:1. For this turbo application, and with a non-stock cylinder head, my C.R. will be somewhat lower.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1710_zps1f04b213.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1710_zps1f04b213.jpg.html)
In this case, the piston protrusion is in the range of 0.037" - 0.040". Now, I have to consult the official VW head gasket decoder chart so that I can order the correct gasket set.
Steve
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsa502c52e.jpg)
My first attempt at posting a photo directly from my phone. Window net has been installed
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...here's the steering column, moved towards the center of the truck, and with the brackets tacked in place
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps0ea405f6.jpg)
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The master cylinder has been mounted, and I'm working on routing the brake line.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps06632c5e.jpg)
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It all looks great Steve and in the one pic the colour even looks better. It must be really good in the flesh. You're going like a Boeing right now. :cheers:
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The color (or colour, depending on your nation of residence) definitely pops. I'm not a proficient photographer, so capturing the "true" shade is difficult. I'm sure it will shine brightly on the salt.
One of the highlights of Saturday is that my father and my God-father stopped by for a couple of hours. I managed to put them both to work, helping to work out the window net mounting, steering shaft placement, and drilling holes along the upper edge of the doors for the window mounting.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1711_zps4ef301cc.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1711_zps4ef301cc.jpg.html)
Reference this photo, where Jerry (my godfather and my Dad's best friend for 60+ years) is about to drill a hole into my Dad's upper leg.
Steve
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Steve;
Your build sure looks good!
I've found that using flash tends to wash out the color in a photo. Try using only available light.
Regards, Neil temporarily at Lake Powell, AZ
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When using available light rest the camera against something or better yet use a tripod. I see a lot of pictures on this site with a lot of motion in them. A steady camera makes a huge difference. :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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If your camera is capable increase the ISO setting (like film speed) to 800 or more as needed. Tripod the easly way.
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Several years ago, I caught a mild case of the "Photography" bug. I went on a few photo shoots with some real photographers, started learning some things, and bought a new camera and a few lenses (Nikon D-40 and 3 different lenses). I learned a little bit about exposures, lighting, how to achieve different effects, and how to manually adjust the settings on my camera. I quickly learned how time consuming it is to be a good photographer. My buddies would go on photo shoots for many hours at a time, then go home to select and edit photos for many, many, more hours.
To be a good photog, you have to be dedicated. It didn't take long to figure out that I was not willing to devote that amount of time to becoming a substantially better photographer, although it was fun going on some of the photo shoots, and I learned to take better photos...
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2773/4503116405_7d7be98115.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/48425315@N03/4503116405/)
Jess near flowering tree (http://www.flickr.com/photos/48425315@N03/4503116405/) by Jetmugg (http://www.flickr.com/people/48425315@N03/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4047/4525078948_18a7492ae0.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/48425315@N03/4525078948/)
DSC_0093 cropped (http://www.flickr.com/photos/48425315@N03/4525078948/) by Jetmugg (http://www.flickr.com/people/48425315@N03/), on Flickr
Some of the images on my build thread were taken with my camera phone, which is obviously not the preferred method. Others were taken with my D-40, which allows for better images. I try to shoot using the available light whenever possible. When there are shadows surrounding the area of interest, I tend to use the flash to light up the darker areas.
Steve
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Another quick pic and update. I got the driver's side polycarbonate window Ted to size, mounted to the tubular frame, and got the mounting points figured out.
I also got the window channel and seal re-mounted on the truck.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsa85c5f7f.jpg)
Next up will be attaching it *for real* and welding on the tubular supports.
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Should say "trimmed to size", not "Ted to size".
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Looks good Steve. I was wondering who Ted was. :wink:
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Yea! I have trouble with words when I see a pretty woman! 8-) Can't speak well, can't think well...
Great job on the build. Looking forward to the window attachment to the car.
Geo
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Great job on the build. Looking forward to the window attachment to the car.
Geo
Outstanding work as usual, Steve. :cheers:
I'm with Geo on looking forward to how you do the window attachment as well.
Gregg
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I think I have the mounting figured out, now I just have to execute my vision.
For the front "leg" of the tubing, it will be drilled and through-bolted to the leading edge of the inner door frame. The angle matches perfectly, and I have already flattened the tube at that location.
For the rear leg, you can see in the pic that I have bent an offset into the leg of the tube. It has also been mashed flat on the end, and will be through bolted to the rear structure of the door.
Additionally, the window kit contains 2 pre-bent tubes (per side) and 4 more pieces of tubing (per side) to fabricate triangular gussets which run from the top of the tubular frame, and which will bolt to the upper door "sill" and the door-panel surface of the door.
I think the installed window will look right and be very solid. I should get both sides completed over the weekend.
Steve.
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Quick pic...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps08a74b4f.jpg)
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Looks good, Steve!
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Another quick pic from my phone- showing the tubular supports for the window frame.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps89096d32.jpg)
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And another...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps2b77db73.jpg)
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Steve, thanks for the last two pics. Helps me with how you did the install.
Gregg
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Gregg - I was hoping you might be able to extract some information from those pics. Your stuff shipped out on Monday. According to UPS, it is "Out For Delivery" as of 6:47 this morning, in Rocky Mount, NC.
I left the windows oversized, so you can trim them to a perfect fit. When I trimmed mine, I used my OEM windows as a template, clamped the polycarbonate to the OEM glass during the cuts, and was VERY careful with a jigsaw. (wood cutting blade worked best, a metal cutting blade just melted the polycarbonate).
Steve.
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Steve, Gregg -
I found that a small, sharp cabinetmaker's plane worked really well in trimming the edges of my Lexan, at least on the straight edges.
Smooth, even light strokes with just a fingernail width of blade standing proud - let the tool do the work.
:cheers:
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Try a ground/reverse tooth laminate blade in your jigsaw on a test piece. I have notcut lexan with one but use them for anything fragine and they work wonders. The kerf is very thin and the reverse cut pulls the matrial UP into the pressure of the foot. This keeps the saw;/material from "jumping"
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For the windshield on the camaro I used a CO2 laser tracked with free protons that escaped the CERN lab..nope thats how I set up the suspension. The window I use a med. wood jig saw blade at med speed, let the saw do the work, to sneak up on the line the used a handheld belt sander to get it just right. Greggs a smart guy. He'll figure it out. :-D
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I also used a machinist's carbide de-burring tool to remove the sharp edges on the polycarbonate. Before de-burring, those edges are SHARP!
Steve.
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Try a ground/reverse tooth laminate blade in your jigsaw on a test piece. I have notcut lexan with one but use them for anything fragine and they work wonders. The kerf is very thin and the reverse cut pulls the matrial UP into the pressure of the foot. This keeps the saw;/material from "jumping"
That "jumping" was a bit of a problem. That's why I clamped the poly directly to the OEM window, and had a friend help to hold the work in place. Without good support, the saw definitely wants to jump. I'll have to look into one of those reverse tooth laminate blades. Are those the ones with teeth on both sides?
Steve.
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Try a ground/reverse tooth laminate blade in your jigsaw on a test piece. I have notcut lexan with one but use them for anything fragine and they work wonders. The kerf is very thin and the reverse cut pulls the matrial UP into the pressure of the foot. This keeps the saw;/material from "jumping"
That "jumping" was a bit of a problem. That's why I clamped the poly directly to the OEM window, and had a friend help to hold the work in place. Without good support, the saw definitely wants to jump. I'll have to look into one of those reverse tooth laminate blades. Are those the ones with teeth on both sides?
Steve.
No, the ones I use are blanchard ground so they have a thin kerf and upside down teeth so they cut on the upstroke. I buy either Bosch, Makita or even the Ace house brand ones. All seem to work pretty well.
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Gregg - I was hoping you might be able to extract some information from those pics. Your stuff shipped out on Monday. According to UPS, it is "Out For Delivery" as of 6:47 this morning, in Rocky Mount, NC.
I left the windows oversized, so you can trim them to a perfect fit. When I trimmed mine, I used my OEM windows as a template, clamped the polycarbonate to the OEM glass during the cuts, and was VERY careful with a jigsaw. (wood cutting blade worked best, a metal cutting blade just melted the polycarbonate).
Steve.
UPS Santa dropped them off this afternoon around 1:30.
Many thanks for doing these and getting the frames for me.....DUDE, YOU ROCK!
Also to everyone, thanks for the tips on cutting/smoothing.
Gregg
PS
Steve, PM on the way.
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No problem, Gregg - I'll send a PM later today.
For now, here are a few more pics of the window setup, and how I did mine. First, I cut the polycarbonate to match the outside shape of the OEM glass. I don't have any good photos of that step.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1740_zpsebab4909.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1740_zpsebab4909.jpg.html)
Then, I set one of the OEM windows on a pair of sawhorses, and then applied a strip of tape along the outer edge of the window. I can't remember if the tape is 3/4" or 1", but you can figure that out.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1741_zps5b518ca0.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1741_zps5b518ca0.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1742_zps22ecfddb.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1742_zps22ecfddb.jpg.html)
The next step was to set the tubular frame so it aligned with the edge of this tape strip on the OEM window. At this point, the tubular window frame has not been bent to match the contour of the window.
After I was happy with the alignment of the tube frame, I started carefully bending the tubular frame to match the curvature of the OEM window. I used a wooden dowel, placed on the floor of the garage, and just made a series of gradual bends until the curves matched on the front and rear edges of the glass.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1743_zps832c5a4d.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1743_zps832c5a4d.jpg.html)
I thought I had a few more photos, but apparently not. After the tubular frame was bent to the right curvature, I put the poly window on the sawhorses, applied the same type of tape to the outside edge, then placed the formed frame on the poly, in the same relative position as on the OEM glass. Again, when I was happy with the alignment, I carefully drilled through the pre-made holes in the window frame, directly through the poly, loosely bolting it as I went.
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Here's one more pic that might help show how the tube frame is attached to the door structure. Once it's bolted in place, the structure is quite rigid - much more so than the inner door frame itself.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1739_zpsc02de585.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1739_zpsc02de585.jpg.html)
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Steve,
I REALLY don't know how many more times I'm going to thank you for all your help.....but once again, THANKS! :cheers:
Naturally, I'll need to repeat what you have done and these pics will certainly help with the process.
Gregg
PS
In Wilmington now and ready to see some Land Speed Racing this weekend! :-D
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Lucky you Gregg, dodge the storm and see go fast. Have a good time and post alot of pics. :-D
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I owe some updates, but haven't made the time to post them. I've hit the phase of the build where money is flowing like gravy at Thanksgiving dinner.
Ordered the fire system today.
Engine is assembled. Ordered a bunch of AN fittings and hoses.
Gauges will be purchased tomorrow.
Coilovers are all set up (about 1 inch lower than previous photos).
New this, new that, lots of hours logged recently, but I need to keep the pressure on.
I can feel the stress building...
Tonight, I took a break from the Rampage to get some exercise, and ended up doing pretty well (for me) in a bike race....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/TNWJune17_zps94945682.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/TNWJune17_zps94945682.jpg.html)
That's me in front of this mini-pack (momentarily), fairly early in the race. Anyway, it was a beautiful night to get out and do some bike racing.
Steve.
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Isnt it funny how we look like beer bellies on the bike and can be stick thin in person? :-D Cycling is as odd as LSR. Kinda like solo around the world sailing.
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You speak the truth. Sadly, the camera doesn't lie, and I forgot to suck in the gut in front of the guy with the camera. I have not been training with any kind of seriousness. The soft midsection tells the tale. If I was 5 lbs lighter, it would make a difference on the bike. If I was 10 lbs lighter, I would be at a good racing weight.
I'm hoping that by maintaining some moderate level of fitness, I'll be able to deal with the physical demands of being on the salt flats with a little more ease.
Steve.
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You will be fine, just hydrate like you are doing a century! My single speed makes a good pit bike.
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Time for a few "real" updates...
First, I made the mental leap that until Bonneville, I will not park my daily driver in the 2-car garage where my build is taking place. I got tired of looking for boxes and parts that I knew were stashed "somewhere". I decided to put all the remaining parts on or under a large table.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1761_zps3fbfae4a.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1761_zps3fbfae4a.jpg.html)
For the most part, when all these parts are installed on the vehicle, then the Rampage will be complete, or it will be time to buy more parts...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1753_zps3f789663.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1753_zps3f789663.jpg.html)
The windows turned out pretty nice, but if I had them to do over again, I would have left some additional stock on the window panels, and trimmed to fit after mounting to the doors.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1755_zpsbc483f06.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1755_zpsbc483f06.jpg.html)
The "real" engine is completely assembled, except for a few fiddly bits, and the pump has been timed.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1758_zps248227f4.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1758_zps248227f4.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1746_zps2dd8807a.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1746_zps2dd8807a.jpg.html)
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The coilovers have been finalized....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1764_zpsf42a1368.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1764_zpsf42a1368.jpg.html)
...back on the ground, and lower than ever....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1766_zps5ec9a15a.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1766_zps5ec9a15a.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1768_zpsb1aedc0d.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1768_zpsb1aedc0d.jpg.html)
The low point on the crossmember is now about 1-1/2" from the ground. I don't think I can get it much lower before September.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1759_zps6008ef32.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1759_zps6008ef32.jpg.html)
When the workbench looks like this, it's time to take a pause for the cause, clean up the bench, and catch a second wind.
That's all for now, folks.
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That workbench looks clean!? You should see mine. I will keep you posted on the gauges.
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As usual, looks REALLY good Steve!
I see high test Mountain Dew on the workbench. Plenty of caffine in there to keep you going and that is what I drink as well! :-D :cheers: :-D
Gregg
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Dam.n that thing looks killer!
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A few more pics, and some good news.
Good news first - I bought a reman Bosch alternator, and I guess it was my lucky day, because it came with the somewhat rare "W" terminal on the back.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1769_zps9d42c668.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1769_zps9d42c668.jpg.html)
This means that the alternator was from a VW diesel with a tachometer, which is quite rare. The W terminal sends a signal that the tach can read. There is some calibration required, but this is the most straightforward way to get a tach signal for a VW diesel engine.
A friend came by to help with the exhaust. This was a step that was weighing on my mind. I knew it was going to be tricky to get the exhaust pipe out of the turbo housing and get it under the car without hitting anything.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1772_zpsbaa665b0.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1772_zpsbaa665b0.jpg.html)
As you can see, I had to "massage" the firewall a bit, where I had previously boxed in an area for the turbo. Other than hammering on the firewall, the exhaust came out nice and smooth.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1774_zpsc496efc2.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1774_zpsc496efc2.jpg.html)
Lastly, here's a shot showing the preliminary mock-up of the intercooler location.
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I knew it was going to be tricky to get the exhaust pipe out of the turbo housing and get it under the car without hitting anything.
Once more, it's a TRUCK not a CAR and from you of all people.....!!!!! LOL, LOL, LOL!
How many times have I busted peoples chops about this? :? :? :-D :-D
GREAT find on the alternator.....Maybe you should buy a lottery ticket! :-D
I really like the way the coilovers and Caster/Camber plates turned out.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1764_zpsf42a1368.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1774_zpsc496efc2.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1774_zpsc496efc2.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1768_zpsb1aedc0d.jpg)
Keep up the good work :cheers: and I'll see you in September on the Great White Dyno!
Gregg
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You caught me slippin', Gregg. Thanks for keeping me on point.
Thanks again for the camber plates - they make the whole "homespun" coilover setup possible. If I need to raise it to get on/off the trailer, etc., I will have to install some temporary spacers on the bottom of the coilover sleeve, then remove them for competition.
Steve.
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Steve, you may wan to keep an eye on the ait after the intercooler, i used a smallish frozen boost cooler with the same configuration you have, albeit it was a bigger turbo (hx40) with lowish (16psi) boost, and it never cooled the air down at all, or wamed the water inthe tank up. Ice in tank made no difference.
160dg was common and made power impossible to make. I recommend going with the cooler that air flows through long ways. More time in cooler gives it a better shot at transferring heat out.
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Hmmm, very interesting. Thank you for the information about your experience. I had some concern about the same thing, but figured that this IC would be better than an air/air IC. I'm prepared to be proven wrong, however.
I'll take a look at some of the "longways" style air/water units.
Steve.
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Crackerman:
Out of curiosity, what was the displacement of the engine you were using?
Thanks again for your input, my mind is racing now. The first thing that came to mind was to put one of those "barrel" style air-water units in line with the one I have.
Steve.
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2.0 4g63t
It was used for packaging reasons, and was disappointing.
I believe it was the unit rated for 350hp, but at 16 psi, there is no way that turbo was making that kind of airflow.
We went back with a smallish air to air and now it maxes at 145ish dg at the end of a run at 28psi.
Its a street car.
Yours may be able to get away with it, using large quantities of ice water and a much smaller engine and turbo... Only one way to find out.
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"Only one way to find out" - that's for sure. I just want to put my best foot forward when I "find out".
I'm seriously considering putting one of the tube style intercoolers in-line with the one I have. What's another couple of hundred bucks?
Steve.
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Steve,
Intercooler comments:
When one does an actual heat transfer analysis on a typical crossflow air-to-fluid heat exchanger, it becomes apparent that the most efficient configuration for a given volume of โcoreโ is for the air to see the largest cross-section of core possible, resulting in a relatively thin depth of core. Even if this does not seem intuitively comfortable.
The proposed configuration in the photos seems perfectly suitable and is similar to most successful layouts. One consideration would be whether the momentum of the air coming in is so great that it tends to concentrate at the narrow end of the header and thus not flow evenly across the core. In this case an internal turning vane may be useful to spread the flow more evenly across the face of the core.
It is not clear just what a โsmallish frozen boost coolerโ is, but if it provided zero cooling, there was probably something else wrong somewhere in the system.
โI recommend going with the cooler that air flows through long ways. More time in cooler gives it a better shot at transferring heat out.โ
Who says flowing longways keeps the air in contact for a longer time? Flowing crosswise the air is flowing at a slower velocity. It is easily shown that for a given volumetric flow rate, the transit time through the cooler is proportional to the volume of the core. That is, frontal area times the core depth. Any combination of area and depth that maintains the same volume will result in the same transit time.
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More good info - maybe I can shed a little light on the "small frozen boost cooler". Frozen Boost is the name of a popular vendor for water/air intercoolers. If you check their website, they offer several standard sizes.
I suspect that the "small" size is the description for the core size of intercoolers like the one I have.
I'm going out on a limb and guessing that you (Interested Observer), have a degree in Mechanical Engineering, based on the language you chose to use in your post.
One key factor I've come across while increasing my knowledge of air/water intercoolers is the importance of bleeding off all the air in the intercooler's water chamber. If the central chamber is only 1/2 full of water, and 1/2 full of air, heat transfer suffers.
My mind is racing about as fast as I hope this Rampage will travel.
What are your thoughts about running one of the "long ways" intercoolers in line with the one I have?
Steve.
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Steve,
While more is often better, for the reasons stated earlier, a โlongwiseโ cooler would not be the best use of additional capacity. Further, at this point, it is not apparent that more capacity is needed and adding such now would introduce considerably more plumbing and packaging difficulties that you probably donโt need for an initial attempt and tight schedule.
You are correct that properly bleeding the water side is important. While you have shown the cooler positioned horizontally, it may be better to mount it vertically or close enough to vertical that any air will either be automatically purged or be confined at most to part of the upper outlet cap, assuming the water flow is from the bottom to the top. This would obviate the need to drill and tap bleed ports in one or both of the caps and having to remember each time to turn on the pump and bleed the system before you push off down course. An alternative would be to plumb the bleed ports back to the reservoir.
To assess the suitability of the cooler and system, it would be good to monitor, or better, record the inlet and outlet temperatures of the air and possibly the water for later examination and evaluation.
It is noted that Frozen Boost has cleverly welded mounting lugs in possibly the worst possible location--in the middle of a flat, unsupported, thin, aluminum sheet--a recipe for failure. You may find it better and easier to weld on different lugs in more convenient and structurally sound locations. And bear in mind the plumbing on the air side needs to be secure but able to flex and move around a bit, because it will.
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Interested Observer it is surprising that You have mouthed the same information
that Stan Back presented at the International Cooling Engineers meeting last
month in San Birdo.
FREUD
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Looks to me like some people are very good at the cut n paste game...
I have a larger version of that A/W Intercooler, also from Frozen Boost.
In our experience, this thing was killer for the money. Ours is used on
a 6.0L LS with an S488 at 18 psi. We were looking at 40 degree IAT's
at the beginning of a mile run, 80 degrees by the end. Our tuner told
me that VP C16 actually makes less power with IAT's below 70, so we
go with a lighter ice to water ratio. We can pretty easily maintain 80
to 100 degree IAT's using a large cooler for the reservoir.
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It is noted that Frozen Boost has cleverly welded mounting lugs in possibly the worst possible location--in the middle of a flat, unsupported, thin, aluminum sheet--a recipe for failure.
the end tanks are cast aluminum, heavy, around .187 or thicker, and are able to support the weight of the cooler without much issue.
I installed a bleeder screw to ensure that water completely filled the core, and it did.
I do have to agree that having the water "in" lower than the "out" is best practice for filling the core.
I do have to say, that the situation i used my intercooler in, was not "ideal", and airflow velocity could have indeed been too high through the cooler. But i DID expect some sort of cooling, when in fact a hot pipe with no cooler was almost as effective.
I am no engineer, but can read a lot (getting thoughts out of head to type is a different story), and understand how coolers work, velocities are affected, as well as directing air through the core to make heat exchange efficiency go up.
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=218&products_id=210&osCsid=cbf3e10dd89fc6df4d00443de59b542e
this is the core I used. I alreaady had an existing air to air intercooler to use, and reinstalled it.
As a street car, this was the best route for me, and all waic and associated parts were sold at near cost. So the tryout cost me nothing more than time.
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That is the exact same intercooler I purchased, and yes, the end tanks are cast aluminum, and there is a thicker section where the mounting bosses are drilled and tapped. I would estimate that they are close to 1/2" thick at the mounting location.
I will definitely take a look at mounting the I/C in a vertical position. It's amazing that sometimes the solution is right there all along, and just needs a different set of eyes to look at the problem.
Steve.
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It looks like you have all the room in the world in that engine bay to do whatever you need to! must be nice...
Also in my experience...
The synthetic cord in the silicone boots will break down under heat, 95% of failures seen where the compressor outlet crashes into the corner of the silicone elbow. especially under sustained use. I dont know what your expected compressor outlet temps are, but it is something to be mindful of.
The solution i have found to be most reliable is to weld a cast elbow onto compressor outlet, and use a straight coupler instead, as there is less heat imparted into the coupler on the bend.
with that you can also add a boost brace to keep pipe from seperating under boost.
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FREUD,
I am not aware of what Stan may have presented at your meeting, but isnโt it amazing how Mother Nature can bring different people to similar conclusions?
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I O, I rather related it to duplicate answers on a test paper when I looked over someones shoulder.
FREUD
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Looking good Steve
There's lots of high boost- high hp bikes that very successfully run intercoolers the same style as what you are using. (they have different air inlet and outlet configurations for their packaging needs but same concept)
It's important to get all the air out as in any heat exchange system, a bleed valve in the downstream water tank is the easiest way to do that with a horizontal core.
The example of not getting any charge temperature drop even with ice is very weird, the water temperature shouldn't move much until all the ice is melted though.
Not trying to be a smarta$$ but sounds like a water circulation issue, the water wants to be circulating fairly fast, preferably enough to get a bit of a pressure drop across the water tanks.
I wouldn't be turning the cooler vertical, I like the plumbing you have, it looks like it will then have a fairly straight run back to the inlet with minimal joins.
To me that's more important than tank orientation.
Can you weld a 90 degree on the turbo to intercooler pipe so you can run a straight silicone hose coupling from the turbo to the pipe?
Being diesel I'm guessing your running pretty high boost, it's pretty easy to put a tether system across a straight join to take the strain off the hose and clamps from the boost pressure trying to part the join.
It's difficult on a 90 degree bend, easy to connect the pipes but hard to take the strain off the hose.
My opinion only.
jon
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Thanks for all the valuable information regarding the intercooler and plumbing. Here's where I'm at right now. I have decided to drill and tap the top of the "downstream" side of the intercooler for a small vent line, which will dump back into the icewater tank. I think that will give a good path for any air to escape the intercooler core.
I'm planning on keeping it horizontal for the sake of simplicity and packaging.
The notion to weld an Al 90 degree fitting onto the turbo is a good one. I haven't totally committed to this idea, but would like to. There are some other critical items that MUST be done, and this item is slightly below those on the priority list.
Diesel Fuel Injection Services has my injectors cleaned, tested, rebuilt, and balanced. I'll be picking them up this evening.
I have a call in to my transmission guy. As soon as he's done with the 4-speed rebuilds, the real engine will be going into the truck "for good".
Yesterday, I received a better-flowing, and better fitting intake manifold from a guy in Bulgaria. This is one of those "Never available in the USA" parts.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/BulgarianIntake_zps71d5705b.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/BulgarianIntake_zps71d5705b.jpg.html)
The gauges have all arrived - Big thanks to Tman for sourcing the gauges.
There is plenty of fabrication, wiring, and plumbing still to be completed, but I'm hitting a pretty good groove of catching my second wind after my day job, burning a little midnight oil.
Steve.
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Yesterday, I received a better-flowing, and better fitting intake manifold from a guy in Bulgaria. This is one of those "Never available in the USA" parts.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/BulgarianIntake_zps71d5705b.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/BulgarianIntake_zps71d5705b.jpg.html)
There is plenty of fabrication, wiring, and plumbing still to be completed, but I'm hitting a pretty good groove of catching my second wind after my day job, burning a little midnight oil.
Steve.
Bulgaria, of all places.....LOL! :-D You never cease to amaze me with all the rare, super rare and never available in the USA parts you have gathered so far.
Keep burning the midnight oil! :cheers:
Gregg
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Steve,
Looking at your intercooler if there was anything I would be concerned about it would be the size of the water connection. I looked on the web site and it says the water connection is a 1/2 inch NPT fitting. I would think that this is way to small. On the water side you want the water to go through the core at a pretty good velocity so that it is turbulent flow and really the faster the better. I don't know what you are planning to use for a water pump for the intercooler but I would think that the bigger the better at least 10 to 20 gpm minimum and that would be at some estimated pressure drop. I am sure that you are planning to use some sort of electric motor driven water pump, typically a centrifugal pump, so look at the flow of the pump at several psi of pressure head not at zero pressure as centrifugal pump's flow rate drops pretty fast with back pressure.
You are making pretty good progress, looking forward to seeing your "green truck" a the salt.
Rex
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Yesterday, I received a better-flowing, and better fitting intake manifold from a guy in Bulgaria. This is one of those "Never available in the USA" parts.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/BulgarianIntake_zps71d5705b.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/BulgarianIntake_zps71d5705b.jpg.html)
There is plenty of fabrication, wiring, and plumbing still to be completed, but I'm hitting a pretty good groove of catching my second wind after my day job, burning a little midnight oil.
Steve.
Bulgaria, of all places.....LOL! :-D You never cease to amaze me with all the rare, super rare and never available in the USA parts you have gathered so far.
Keep burning the midnight oil! :cheers:
Gregg
All that and still to find those elusive headlight covers! :-D :mrgreen:
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I haven't purchased a pump yet, but will most likely use a Rule bilge pump (haven't figured out the size yet). I am using brass barbed fittings which accept 3/4" ID hoses. A Coleman-style cooler will reside in the bed of the truck (probably 48 quart), and the water lines will run along the driver's side subframe rail from the bed to the engine compartment.
With respect to pumps, I have seen photos of guys using either the Livewell style pumps or the Bilge style pumps. For the sake of simplicity, I was planning to use a bilge style pump, which would reside inside the cooler, as opposed to a livewell style with external plumbing.
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[/quote]
All that and still to find those elusive headlight covers! :-D :mrgreen:
[/quote]
You are correct. All this other stuff has been easy to find compared to those headlight covers (Part # P4286820 or P4286821). In a year and a half of looking, I still have not seen a pair of them for sale at any price.
Steve.
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I haven't purchased a pump yet, but will most likely use a Rule bilge pump (haven't figured out the size yet). I am using brass barbed fittings which accept 3/4" ID hoses. A Coleman-style cooler will reside in the bed of the truck (probably 48 quart), and the water lines will run along the driver's side subframe rail from the bed to the engine compartment.
With respect to pumps, I have seen photos of guys using either the Livewell style pumps or the Bilge style pumps. For the sake of simplicity, I was planning to use a bilge style pump, which would reside inside the cooler, as opposed to a livewell style with external plumbing.
The Rule bilge pump is what I'm planning to use as well.
Gregg
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All that and still to find those elusive headlight covers! :-D :mrgreen:
[/quote]
You are correct. All this other stuff has been easy to find compared to those headlight covers (Part # P4286820 or P4286821). In a year and a half of looking, I still have not seen a pair of them for sale at any price.
Steve.
[/quote]
If you remember, it took me about 2 1/2 - 3 years to find mine. I do a check about every month for the ones you need.....They ARE out there somewhere!
Gregg
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Sorry Steve, had to throw that one out there. I am still looking for you.
I too am running a Rule pump.
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Another quick update.
After work yesterday, I retrieved a set of injectors which I had earlier dropped off at Diesel Fuel Injection Services in St Louis. As their box states, they are The Original, since 1946. That's a long time in the diesel business, and these guys and gals know their stuff.
I took them 3 sets of injectors, and asked them to test them, pick the best set, and then rebuild and tune the best set.
As a side note, the smell of these fresh and clean injectors takes me to a happy place, in the same way that racing gasoline triggers something magic in the brain.
These injectors smell like some kind of industrial, automotive, almost medical cleanliness. I think it's a Stanadyne product that DFI uses in their shop. Anyway, it's the kind of smell that you will never forget.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1779_zps17ecebd9.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1779_zps17ecebd9.jpg.html)
I also welded in a couple more plate gussets, linking the main hoop and the cross bar for the shoulder, and worked on the steering shaft seal to the firewall. I should finish the steering shaft seal tonight.
My transmission guy says he'll have one of them done by the weekend. Depending on which trans is ready to pick up, I may be putting the engine and trans into the truck for the final time. Hip Hip Hooray.
Steve.
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Too funny on the "smell thing" Steve. Another one off the checkoff list! :-D Also, good to hear about the trans.....I hope it's the one you "need" to do the final install of the engine!
Please post some pics on what you are doing for the steering shaft/firewall seal. I went to our local Tractor Supply to see if they had a flange bearing I could use for mine but they didn't have the right size. I am going to search the WWW and see if I can find one. Just haven't had the time to do it.....been to busy with the cleanup/fixup/paintup campaign here at the house. :cry: Thank God, it's about over.....I'm getting to old for this Subaru! :-D
Gregg
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Gregg:
You read my mind about getting a photo posted. Here's what I came up with....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1781_zpsf4baf1eb.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1781_zpsf4baf1eb.jpg.html)
It's an exhaust pipe adapter, welded to a misalignment bearing which is commonly sold as a steering shaft support bearing. The ID of the bearing is 3/4", but the steering shaft is actually 17mm. I'm using a flanged bushing in the bearing ID, which I need to bore out to slightly over 17mm. The inner bearing race of the misalignment bearing has 2 set screws which will be used to hold the bushing in place.
The exhaust fitting is then welded to a piece of 16 ga. sheet metal, which seals up to the firewall. I'll get more pics when the whole deal is finished.
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Steve, since you have already made the side windows, why not make a set of headlight covers? Brackets should be easy enough, and trimming out lexan/ plexi should not be an issue as you have already done it. They may not be perfect, but they are available "now" vs months or years from now...
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The rules only allow OEM headlight covers. They were not super-plentiful back in '84, so you know what that means now. There are plenty of aftermarket headlight covers available, but I haven't been able to find any of the genuine Mopar items. In the big scheme of things, the headlight covers would only represent a very slight improvement in aerodynamics. However, as we all know, a very slight difference might be all that's needed to put an entry in the record book.
If I had been thinking back in '84, I would have walked down to my friendly neighborhood Dodge dealer, purchased a set over the counter, and held onto them until now. :?
Like Gregg alluded to, I'm confident that there are a set of these covers, probably still in their original box, sitting on a shelf in someone's shop. Finding that person with that box on his shelf is proving to be a challenge.
At one point, I thought I had located a set, with the original box, instructions, mounting brackets, etc. The original label with the correct part# was missing, but I was still hopeful. My hopes were dashed when the mystery set turned out to be for a Lancer/Shadow or some other similar small Mopar car.
Steve.
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps15344650.jpg)
Steering shaft seal, finished but not yet installed.
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps54b9b139.jpg)
End of the turbo "down pipe", with a v-band connection to the rest of the exhaust system.
I'm messing around with the photobucket app on my phone.
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Looking good Steve, coming together quickly now.
If you weld the 90 to the cross pipe rather than the turbo the orientation isn't critical, also easier to swap turbos if you need to.
Then put the hose and boost bar from the turbo to the 90.
Cheers
jon
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Jon:
I like that idea, but then how do I seal the 90 to the turbo outlet?
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Oops, I just re-read your post. Now it makes sense to me.
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One more for now - the steering shaft seal after bolting in place...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps5f7e1cf1.jpg)
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Jon:
I like that idea, but then how do I seal the 90 to the turbo outlet?
The same as from your pipe to the intercooler.
Short piece of hose, 2 clamps and a boost bar to take the strain off the hose.
Same number of hoses and clamps as your 90 but you can put a boost bar on it because its straight.
jon
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Time for a post-weekend update. I had 3 goals set for myself over the weekend.
1) Finish the brake line plumbing.
2) Install the fuel cell and plumb the supply and return lines to the engine compartment.
3) Get the dashboard layed out and holes cut for the gauges.
I'm happy to report that I got all 3 of them taken care of, with the exception of 1 section of brake line (flexible section) I need to order today.
There are no photos of the brake plumbing, as I didn't drag the camera under the truck to document all the bends, clamps, and fittings. I'll bet I made 50 trips under the truck and back to the work bench over the weekend. For my "next" project, I'll try to do all this work while the vehicle is still on the rotisserie.
Fuel cell - I decided to use Uni-Strut for the mounting of the fuel cell, as opposed to fabbing something from scratch. If you haven't used Uni-Strut in the past, I highly recommend it. The number of fittings, clamps, and nut inserts make any type of mounting job much easier.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1782_zps45233eb9.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1782_zps45233eb9.jpg.html)
On Sunday morning, I made a junkyard run with my neighbor, to pick up a few odds and ends. I grabbed 2 of the Ford inertia switches, one of which will be used to kill power to the electric fuel pump in the event of something bad. You can see it mounted to the inner bedside panel in the photo above.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1783_zps368d9ff4.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1783_zps368d9ff4.jpg.html)
This photo shows how the fuel lines (1 supply and 1 return) are routed through the bottom of the truck's bed. I had initially planned to use rubber grommets, but these electrical cord connectors were the perfect size for the 1/2" OD of the fuel line. Again, what you cannot see are the total of 16 cushioned clamps securing the fuel lines from the bed of the truck to the engine compartment, as they are routed along the floorpan, adjacent to the subframe rail. Also visible is the Mr Gasket low-pressure diesel pump and filter, which will ensure a steady supply of diesel fuel to the main injection pump. This pump will be wired through the inertia switch.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1790_zps9e2995d8.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1790_zps9e2995d8.jpg.html)
The photo above shows my first attempt at a dash layout. After posting a pic of this on Facebook last night, I received some feedback that I will put to use this evening. The advice was that I should strap myself into the seat, with the HANS device and helmet on, then check the visibility of the gauges. The person offering this advice suggested that I may want to raise the entire dash panel for better visibility. I will definitely check the layout tonight, before welding the brackets in place.
I brought the dash panel in to work with me today, so that I can use our sheetmetal brake to form the upper and lower edges of the panel. In keeping with my newfound love of Uni-Strut, I'll be making a framework of Uni-Strut to support the panel.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1789_zpsa9d5f769.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1789_zpsa9d5f769.jpg.html)
That's all for now.
Steve.
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Dash frame fabbed and welded to the cage, and the skin has been formed and bolted to the frame.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps665b17c4.jpg)
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Okay - I've been a little slow posting updates, but have remained busy working on the truck. I'm still on track for World Of Speed, but can't afford to slow down.
I picked up the "race" transmission from my rebuilder guy over the weekend.
I pulled the mock-up engine and trans from the engine bay, cleaned up the bay, and shot a couple of coats of can-o-dizing on it.
The "real" engine and trans will be going in (hopefully for good) on Thursday evening
Water lines have been run from the bed to the engine compartment. Fuel lines have been run, as well.
The brakes have been fully plumbed and bled.
Electrical work has been progressing, here are a few semi-crummy cell phone pics....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/lexanbatteryprotector_zps468340a2.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/lexanbatteryprotector_zps468340a2.jpg.html)
I sunk the battery disconnect switch into the side of the bed. It's a fairly tidy installation. I fabbed up a polycarbonate protector for the terminals. That's clear, adhesive containing heat shrink tubing on each terminal. This feature resulted from a discussion on the Technical forum here at landracing.com. Good stuff.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/disconnecthandle_zps53017aed.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/disconnecthandle_zps53017aed.jpg.html)
The disconnect handle is above the passenger's side taillight. I still need to make a label for the handle.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/batteryholddown_zpsf45b3389.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/batteryholddown_zpsf45b3389.jpg.html)
With the help of some more Uni-Strut and related fittings, the battery is firmly secured in the bed of the truck.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Bedbatteryandcooler_zps3bfb5426.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/Bedbatteryandcooler_zps3bfb5426.jpg.html)
Here's a view from the rear of the bed, showing the relative location of all important functions. I made a protective cover for the battery terminals from the lid of an old Attwood battery box. The cover is not structural, it's just to prevent inadvertent contact with the terminals.
The cooler will serve a dual purpose. It will keep beverages and perishables cold during the drive to Wendover, and will then serve as the intercooler icewater tank during WoS runs on the salt.
That's all for now.
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Looks sano Steve. :cheers:
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Pretty bitchin Steve. Like the cleanliness of the wiring.
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Thanks, guys. It's tidy, but not super-duper detailed. It is nice working with all-new stuff.
Tonight, I got the "race" engine and trans installed in the engine compartment. This should be the last time I'll need the engine crane for a while.
Semi-crummy cell phone pics are on their way.
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsdc95fd4e.jpg)
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsd5c7f6ea.jpg)
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Love the little VW diesel... Wish you could find a new TDi to stick
in there... They are pretty wicked from the factory. 140hp/236tq
and can be easily brought up to 275hp/400tq with nozzles & tuning.
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When I started this project, my first inclination was to figure out how to build a 1.5L TDI through some combination of factory available parts. After some research, I realized that there was no easy (affordable) way to de-stroke a 1.9L TDI to fit under the 1.5L limit. I think it can be done, but looks like it would require custom rods and possibly a custom crankshaft.
I also figured that the 2.0L (G/DT) record was a little too steep for a first-time build. The G record is right at 130 mph. The H record currently stands at 106 mph
I have since learned that in Europe, there were some 1.3 and 1.4L, 3 cylinder TDI's, which have good power potential. These smaller TDI's were never sold in the US, but it's possible (at least on paper) to import one for non-road going use.
Of course, if someone had a 275HP TDI engine available, I might be able to find a home for it.....
Steve.
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Spent most of the day in the garage today, getting the flywheel shield, injectors and lines, and intercooler worked out. Cell phone pics to follow
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsc123f6f0.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps1a10934c.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps0ca8e13a.jpg)
This is the pizza I ate for dinner.
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps1a10934c.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps0ca8e13a.jpg)
This is the pizza I ate for dinner.
Steve,
The little engine that CAN! :-D
Pizza looks good and I hope you had several of these :cheers: for your accomplishments! :-D
Looking forward to seeing you and your truck at WoS!
Gregg
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(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps0ca8e13a.jpg)
This is the pizza I ate for dinner.
One of the major food groups during race car construction! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: (The other!)
Pete
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My wife and kids were gone all afternoon. Wife and daughter went to a wedding shower.
My son went with my father-in-law to the shooting range and then fishing. (Sorry I had to miss that trip).
It was a good day in the shop, and I had the opportunity to go out to a local restaurant by myself. There's something satisfying about going out to eat all by myself once in a while. I love my family, but sometimes that "Fortress of Solitude" is needed to keep a man focused.
Steve.
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Steve, Sent you a PM.
Gregg
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Got it, Rampage Brother. See you in Wendover.
Steve.
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Quick pic
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps612ef75b.jpg)
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Looks great Steve! :cheers:
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There wont be any missing the Rampage this weekend, cant wait :-)
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It won't be on the Salt until WofS.
I'd like to make it to SpeedWeek, but that will have to wait for my next visit.
Steve.
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Quick pic
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps612ef75b.jpg)
Steve.....Looking LOUD! :-D
Also, here's something to think about. Vic posted this on page 1 of my build and you might want to do the same on your bed cover.
Gregg - I would rivet an aluminum angle diagonal to each segment of the bed cover to help keep them from "oilcanning" ( and adding drag). Learned this ages ago in Craftsman trucks.
vic
Hope this helps,
Gregg
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Ah shoot Steve I thought you were gonna have it at Speedweek, my bad. Well hopefully ill make it to WoS, only time will tell
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I'm trying to get as much "asses and elbows" time as possible, somewhat at the expense of keeping good photo documentation of everything.
That being said, I now have the intercooler piping sorted out, the radiator, fan, shroud, and overflow tank mounted, the clutch cable fabbed and installed, the throttle cable fabbed and installed, and a pretty good jump on the wiring and gauges. Here are some more pics...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1808_zps062e3cbf.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1808_zps062e3cbf.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1810_zpse59e0ce1.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1810_zpse59e0ce1.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1807_zpscce4de3c.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1807_zpscce4de3c.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1811_zpse4c5f4b7.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1811_zpse4c5f4b7.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1814_zps6e114557.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1814_zps6e114557.jpg.html)
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You should have painted it so it would be easier to find on the salt :cheers:
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I'm trying to get as much "asses and elbows" time as possible, somewhat at the expense of keeping good photo documentation of everything.
With as much as you have accomplished in such a short time, it's a wonder you had the time to take any pics at all.
LOOKING REAL GOOD Steve! I can't wait to see it on the salt at WoS! :cheers:
Gregg
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My retinas! :-D
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I want this thing to look like it landed here from another planet, and it's hungry for SPEED!
Steve
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My retinas! :-D
Your retinas hurt now, wait until it's out on the salt! That thing is going to glow, stare to long and you might have a seizure?
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I've been wrenching all weekend, while listening to the action from Speed Week.
I got the little truck up and running, and drove it around the block once. Here's a quick video. This thing is going to be MEAN!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLIB_fcg0Is
Steve.
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The Green Machine lives! :cheers:
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ Wendover, UT
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Great news Steve. It sounds wicked!!! :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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THE GREEN MEANIE LIVES!
Looking and sounding KILLER.....love that turbo sound. :cheers:
Also, looking forward to seeing you and the truck when we pass through St. Louis (to drop off a few things :-D ) on our way to WoS!
Gregg
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Thanks, guys!
There are a lot of details to get sorted out, but at least she can move under her own power now.
I have a couple of leaks to fix (injector loop return lines, and valve cover gasket) before checking for more leaks.
The ground clearance is only about 1" to the bottom of the scattershield. It's so low, I can't even pull off the curb to my own driveway without some boards. I'm thinking about making some kind of removable "booster" spacers for loading and unloading, etc.
Here are a couple of more videos shot last night. The first one may be a bit confusing. The diesel clatter you hear at the beginning is from my Mercedes, which was being used as a jump start booster for the Rampage battery.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNp8WfyXBjs
... and here I am pulling away from the driveway for a quick shake-down run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiFDCbwFsMA
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Steve that thing sounds awesome! Its a mix between my old open downpipe dsms and didge 12v.
The combustion noise seems very loud for it having precups. I am not complaining because it sounds awesome!
I sure hope its at wos and runs the number first time out!
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It may quiet down some when I complete the exhaust system. That will also get the black smoke out from under the truck. Right now, the exhaust ends about 2 feet from the turbo.
It definitely doesn't sound like any other VW diesels I've been around.
Steve.
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Wooohooo the green bean livescongrats Steve.
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That's great Steve!! Sounds awesome! Nothing like the sound of a turbo spooling behind a very short exhaust system! Can't wait to see this thing run!
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Sounds mean!
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'Lil Phoenix........
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In three weeks from today, I'll be on the salt. :-o
I've been burning a lot of midnight oil, checking things off the To Do list.
I ran into one area where I'm going to do some re-work. I'll try to describe the situation and relate it to the photos. When I did the cage, I ran a bar horizontally over where the driver's helmet would be. Unfortunately, this bar is too low in my opinion. I didn't curve it to match the profile of the main hoop of the cage, I just ran it straight across. After putting it in the truck, I knew it was going to be close. After adding the SFI padding, it's too close (like my helmet will hit the padding if I push up hard).
At this point, I'm planning to go back and cut that bar out. I want to replace it with some 6" wide x 1/4" thick steel plate, welded into sort of a half hexagon shape, closely matching the contour of the main hoop. I will then have to get some SFI sheet type padding for the inside of that area.
Please provide feedback for this proposed solution...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1829_zpsecf3160a.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1829_zpsecf3160a.jpg.html)
The bar without SFI padding, right above the helmet area, is the one that's too close for comfort...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1827_zps2f2397c8.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1827_zps2f2397c8.jpg.html)
I am proposing to cut this bar out, then add a weldment, which will be 3 pieces (one angled up from the left, one angled up from the right, and one horizontal across the top)
Am I worrying too much? Should I just cut the bar out and forget about it? Any other proposed solutions? I don't think there's enough room for me to bend up a new bar to fit in that area (I can't make bends that tight and close together).
Steve.
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In other areas, I have been making progress.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1815_zpsa7204fa2.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1815_zpsa7204fa2.jpg.html)
The dash and switch panel are done.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1816_zpsfc0d779c.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1816_zpsfc0d779c.jpg.html)
I'm pretty happy with the wiring. It's tidy, but not super detailed.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1818_zpscd776e53.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1818_zpscd776e53.jpg.html)
More wiring.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1820_zps20dd934e.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1820_zps20dd934e.jpg.html)
Switch panel. The fire system release knob will also mount on this panel.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1821_zpse7f3b1d1.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1821_zpse7f3b1d1.jpg.html)
Tow point
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1817_zps0d2c257a.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1817_zps0d2c257a.jpg.html)
Main disconnect.
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If you can get another bar in the more the gooder.
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Congrats Steve, it sounds great!
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Thanks, guys. Cap'n - what do you think about the 1/4" steel "top cap" idea for spanning between the two bars that run parallel towards the front of the truck (above the helmet area)?
Steve.
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Thanks, guys. Cap'n - what do you think about the 1/4" steel "top cap" idea for spanning between the two bars that run parallel towards the front of the truck (above the helmet area)?
Steve.
Steve, Didn't Neil do something similar on his Manta? I'll see if I can find a pic in his diary.
Gregg
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Right, Gregg-- I have three tubes running forward and I attached a sheet of 6Al4V titanium to the top. in addition to protecting your noggin, it acts as a shear plate and stiffens the structure. Using 1/4" steel would be fine-- just heavier.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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What Neil said, Steve. Amy's camaro has the funny car set up. The plate will add a lot of strength, much like a roadster cage only you can keep it pointed in the right direction. :-D
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It's pretty much crunch time around here. :-o I'm in pretty good shape, with all the "major" issues taken care of. There are still plenty of minor things to do, though.
I'll share a few pics just to show some of the progress...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1833_zps0ca24eb1.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1833_zps0ca24eb1.jpg.html)
The engine compartment consists mostly of zip ties and cushioned line clamps.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1834_zps84c3bef4.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1834_zps84c3bef4.jpg.html)
The rear lexan window is in place, and trimmed out.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1836_zpsf604c6c6.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1836_zpsf604c6c6.jpg.html)
Exhaust stack is in place, but will be trimmed down a bit before racing. It gives a satisfying puff of black smoke when the throttle is blipped.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1837_zps2d3178b7.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1837_zps2d3178b7.jpg.html)
Gotta share love for the sponsors. Bauman Oil has been great! They let me use their shop to paint the truck, and are supplying all the fluids.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1838_zps31485832.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1838_zps31485832.jpg.html)
Behind the dash, you can see the wiring, and fire system plumbing for the in-cab nozzles.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1840_zps96aa3ee4.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1840_zps96aa3ee4.jpg.html)
Hardy's Hot Rods is a local guy who does custom HotWheels models. He made a replica of my Rampage. I'll have to post a pic a little later.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1841_zpsd1c6798d.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1841_zpsd1c6798d.jpg.html)
NACA duct in the driver's window.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1844_zpsb95b149d.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1844_zpsb95b149d.jpg.html)
FireFox fire bottle mounted solidly in place.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1846_zpse076d6c4.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1846_zpse076d6c4.jpg.html)
Dieselmeken AB is my injection pump builder in Sweden.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1847_zps67026ddb.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1847_zps67026ddb.jpg.html)
Techtonics Tuning supplied all the cylinder head hardware (Valves, springs, retainers, guides, and seals).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1849_zps674091df.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1849_zps674091df.jpg.html)
These are all of the other fine vendors who have contributed to this effort.
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Steve;
Aside from the engine being in there sideways :-D it is looking very fine!!!
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Steve,
Looking GREAT and almost complete.....Only a few days left! :-D
Can't wait to see it on the salt! :cheers:
See you in Wendover!
Gregg
Currently in Sioux Falls, SD on our way to WoS!
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Steve -
I can't tell from the pic.
You do have 10 lbs of fire suppression, I hope?
The machine is gorgeous!
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Chris - yep, at least 10 lbs of fire suppression. It's a Firefox system, 2 nozzles under hood in the exhaust/turbo/oil pan area, and 2 nozzles under the dash.
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Steve, in a fair amount of reading other's experiments on dsmlink forums, with using a fresh air intake duct to keep air cool going into turbo, as well as any way to increase pressure and airflow into the compressor inlet will drastically increase compressor efficiency.
A popular mod is to lose a headlight and convert into velocity stack. Or use it to pressurize (at speed) a sealed airbox with a filtered velocity stack feeding turbo with minimal bends and pipe diameter changes.
I dont know what is legal as far as that type of mod goes, or if the little bit of drag gained would be offset by power gained.
Apparently picking up 2-3 mph in the 1/4 while running 3-5 less psi and needing to add fuel to make up the additional airflow is the norm for a decently designed setup.
It is probably too late in the game to switch things around now, but might be food for thought for next year. And could help you push the record even higher. ( we all know you will get the record, how could you not?)
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"... ( we all know you will get the record, how could you not?) ..."
Don't be fooled by those words, Steve. I can think of many of us that thought a record was in the bag -- and then didn't happen because of this or that. Confidence is good - wariness is better. :-D
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I can think of about a million things that may prevent me from being competitive against the existing record. For my own sake, I want to remain confident, but definitely wary.
The simple fact that the current recordholder in this class, as well as the previous recordholder are very well known names in LSR, with a whole bunch of records between them, tells me that it's not going to be easy.
I've put together a package that I think can be competitive, and was "sort of" within my budget. As I've told a lot of people who have asked me how fast it will go - I tell them that "on paper" it should be able to run the record, but the race isn't run on paper, it's run on the salt.
STeve.
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Excellent reply Steve! I get the same question all the time. On paper, Hank should be very fast. Paper though does not allow for tire slip, corrected altitude, missed shifts, nerves, etc! We would all love to get a record, but in my opinion chasing that record and just seeing how fast our projects will go is fun in itself!
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Thanks, Junkie.
In related news, I took an early lunch today to meet up with my glass installer. The windshield is now in place, the trim strips are installed, and nothing got broken. Hooray.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Windshield_zps7e98517f.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/Windshield_zps7e98517f.jpg.html)
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Remember, folks - a good glass installer doesn't even OWN a screwdriver.
Steve.
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Steve:
Record or no record you are a 1%'er by building your own ride and dragging it to the salt. You built a really nice and cool Rampage in a very short time. It was great to watch it all come together.
It is the most fun I have ever had racing and I am sure it will be for you too. It's cool just sitting in the car, on the starting line, realizing you can only see about the first 2 miles of the course with another 6 miles to explore if you get there...some guys, not me even get to explore the 1/2 mile or so of mud road after the 8th mile.
BR
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Looking good, Steve!
Good luck! :cheers:
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Steve, Now that the windshield is in place, how much is left to do? When are you leaving for Wendover?
Gregg
Currently in Rapid City, SD on our way to WoS!
Hope to catch up with Trent (Tman) Thursday.
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I still have some "checklist" items to complete on the Rampage, but I'm in pretty good shape with those. I am fully committed to having it buttoned up and ready to run on Sept 7th.
I probably have more to do on the trailer that I'm using than on the Rampage itself. I am borrowing an enclosed race car trailer from a friend who races a sports car. I think he only used the trailer once last year, before undergoing knee replacement surgery. Due to a bunch of complications from that surgery, he is still not back in commission, and hasn't done any maintenance or improvements to the trailer.
The trailer was basically "Rode hard and put away wet" last year, so there are several areas that I'm having to address before feeling good about taking off across the country with this trailer (tires, brakes, bearings, electrical issues).
My plan is to depart from St Louis on Thursday morning, with the intent of arriving in Wendover on Friday evening.
See you on the salt.
Steve.
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Good racing Steve, safe travels.
Leave a nice smoke trail.
BR
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Thanks, Wheeler.
Quick update(s) - me and my Crew Chief spent a couple of hours sorting out trailer issues last night. We got pretty much everything working the way it's supposed to, with the exception of 2 "spotlights" mounted on the top of the back of the trailer.
Like so many trailer wiring issues, most of the problems stemmed from spliced connections and bad grounds.
I wish the trailer industry would adopt the practice of running a dedicated ground wire to all 12V accessories, instead of relying on "chassis grounds" at all locations. If I ever get around to re-wiring this whole trailer, that's what I intend to do. Too many Scotch-splice connectors and self-tapping screws for grounds have caused just about every trailer wiring problem I've ever encountered.
Steve.
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Good luck Steve!
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I wish the trailer industry would adopt the practice of running a dedicated ground wire to all 12V accessories, instead of relying on "chassis grounds" at all locations. If I ever get around to re-wiring this whole trailer, that's what I intend to do. Too many Scotch-splice connectors and self-tapping screws for grounds have caused just about every trailer wiring problem I've ever encountered.
Steve.
Part of the issue is the crummy wiring harness kits that tend to get used, and the location of the aux and running lights with respect to the main brake/turn/running light locations.
I cobbled mine together in late July - an annual ritual - and made the trip out without any difficulties, but I'm looking to replace it all with weather proof boxes, Switchcraft connectors and 16/3 insulated wiring.
Nothing more frustrating than getting pulled over for an erratic tail light.
"Yes, officer, it's a 1971."
"No, Bonneville."
"No, that would be Utah."
"Really, your dad had one, too?"
"Yeah, the electricals were bad on these."
"No, I haven't had anything to drink."
"L,M,N,O,P . . ."
Best of luck, Steve!
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To add to your woes - are the wires long enough to do any patching? Our trailer was built by folks that paid top dollar, by the inch, for the hookup wire. The factory wiring was dang near banjo-string taut - and whomever fixed a light here and there before we got it did NOT make good splices with plenty of slack. Crawling underneath the trailer to chase out the newly-corroded connectors is an annual event for me - and each time I refresh my stock of curse words when I find the 4x4 weathertight junction box crammed with seven in and seven out and a bunch of jumpers.
And yes, we have a light or two that flickers because the ground wire to it goes to a sheet metal screw.
Steve, you're not alone - nor are you, Chris. :-(
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Slim:
Obviously, you have been laying underneath my borrowed trailer, checking the connections. One 4x4 box with a spaghetti plate full of unlabeled, not color coded wires, and about a dozen scotch splice connectors.
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They come factory that way Steve!
BTW, should have a Gregg sighting here in a couple hours. They are playing tourist on their way to the Crazy Horse Memorial. Hope this heat doesn't kill em. They hit the only hot time we have had this year!@
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It finally got hot here as well (high 90's, with 120% relative humidity).
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Super-short video of the Rampage "Rollin' some coal". This thing pulls VERY HARD!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p8EYJ7BfH8
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Can't wait to see this belching black smoke on the salt.....On it's way to a record! :cheers:
Gregg
Currently in Rapid City, SD on our way to WoS!
Also, stopped by Trent's this afternoon for a REALLY good visit! Spirit of South Dakota is looking good! :cheers:
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GO Steve, GO!
Best of luck on the salt!
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Fordboy
P.S. If Trent's there, he'll probably have the best beer!
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That's good to know. I'm not a big drinker - I'd much rather have one really good beer than several not-so-good beers.
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More quick pics...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1854_zps2de2f9bc.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1854_zps2de2f9bc.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1855_zpsfc7027c1.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1855_zpsfc7027c1.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1863_zpsd6baa4f1.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1863_zpsd6baa4f1.jpg.html)
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Wow - I'm looking at this, and in 1 1/2 years working on it patiently and in your spare time, the outcome is truly impressive.
Well - time to throw it on the trailer.
Go get 'em! :cheers:
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Got enuf time to paint the hood?
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I just painted it this morning. :-D Flat black Rust-Oleum with catalyzed hardener.
The black is intentional.
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It gives it that late '60s "Super Bee" look.
Don't you DARE paint it to match! :cheers:
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I need some kind of cool graphic for the hood.
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Steve;
Seeing how it is green, how about "The Incredible Hulk"?
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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With only 1.5 liters under the hood, it's more of a "Kermit The Frog" kind of personality.
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A miss piggie with a heart outline around it about 18" across in one of the front corners.
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That's a good idea. :-D
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Will look great with the great white salt background for pictures. :cheers:
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I need some kind of cool graphic for the hood.
Taxonomy is in order for this one.
A small "Ram" would be a "Kid".
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Loading up! :-D
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1866_zps9d83deef.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1866_zps9d83deef.jpg.html)
Snuggled in, safe and sound...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1867_zps3a36ce87.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1867_zps3a36ce87.jpg.html)
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Good luck, Steve-- have a safe trip.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Have a safe trip out and I'll see you in Wendover Friday!
Gregg
Currently in West Yellowstone, MT on our way to WoS!
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Good luck Steve, looks great.
Cheers
jon
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very sweet! i bet it feels great to finally get to this point.
Good luck out there.
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Looks like you're going to be plenty early for WOS. If you are coming down I-15 & want to visit streamlinerland, give me a call.
Sent pm.
Sid.
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Steve, :cheers: You amaze me. I've never seen a guy with such tenacity. Excellent work. She'll run as good as she looks. Have a good one.
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Great Job! I really like the research to match parts to come up with a package. Good luck, be safe, go fast!
Geo
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Sweet! Good luck, safe travels!
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Awesome Steve! I was hoping to see your Rampage run, and it looks like I will! Luckily Bonneville isn't too far from here. And I can't think of a better way to spend my birthday than being out on the salt! See you this weekend!
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Thanks for all the support, guys. I really "feed" off all the energy and feedback you have provided on this project.
Now, all the "pre-work" is done, and it's time to go run it for real. Please stop by the pit area, one and all.
Steve.
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Right back atcha, Steve. Look for the big "Seldom Seen Slim" race trailer. Either I'll be there with it - or I won't. Hang around or leave a note or call me and then I'll find you. Not that the Rampage will be difficult to locate with that paint job. . . :roll:
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Quick update, showing the tow bar mounting on the nose of the Rampage. If I ever find a set of the correct headlight covers, they could hide the unsightly brackets which are tucked into the headlight opening.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Towbar_zps92908f4a.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/Towbar_zps92908f4a.jpg.html)
Steve
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Fab up some full width mudflaps now that hang off the hitch. You will need them. Looks great
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Thanks , Tman. Mud flaps are on the list for this weekend
Tonight, I'm taking the Rampage to a Technical College in STL for a dyno test & tune session.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsbdf13a67.jpg)
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Way to go Steve!!!. You inspire me. You built and finished that truck in record time. It looks great and I hope you get ten time more out of it than you put in. :cheers:
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I hope so too. :-D
I have a problem, though... I'm already daydreaming about the "next" project. :cheers:
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If you're getting mudflaps for the pickup -- consider getting BIG ones and cutting them down to what you need. I use flaps built for full size semi tires. The flaps are about 36" tall x 24" wide. I cut them to about 10" wide and to length so they clear the ground by only three or so inches (when the pickup is loaded and with the trailer on it). I mount them way up into the fender so that they help repel crud that would otherwise get throw way up there, too. The 36" is more than I need -- but not too much more. Installed length is about 28". And I buy flaps (I get 'em at either NAPA or CarQuest) that have the anti-spray "nubbies" on the tire side. They do a good job of reducing the spray that is flung off the tires and ends up both getting extra dirt on the side of your vehicle - and messing up the vision of the vehicles beside or behind you.
Use stainless fasteners - and expect them to last for at least a year before they corrode. I mount my flaps at three or four points depending on access behind the fenders.
I usually use some really high end black paint -- 99 cents/can at discount stores is about as high a price as I can afford) to paint over the advertising that's otherwise showing on 'em. But covering that would be your choice.
The only drawback I've run across is that when backing over a barrier - such as a curb or log - the flap hangs down far enough that it gets caught between the barrier and the tire and gets ripped off. I do that about once a year. . . :|
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What I'm thinking of doing is making a single large mudflap (or 2 smaller ones side-by-side) that would cover the width of the back of the truck, but only when towing the Rampage around on the salt.
This flap would not be for the purpose of protecting the tow vehicle, but to keep from throwing salt onto the front of the towed Rampage.
I'm thinking of attaching it to the drawbar that will have to be used with the towbar arrangement on the front of the Rampage.
Steve.
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Steve
That is what I was thinking. A 60" or so piece of square tubing that pins on the tow bar. Maybe have the flap rise above the square tubing about 10".
The other idea was a venal bra that attached with magnets and snaps that covered the front and the winshield. My windshield got bombarded with salt. We tow at 40 or so on the return road.
BR
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Steve,
I made a "mud flap" that attaches to the reciever that inserts into the hitch, It runs across the back of the truck and the mudflaps go to within 2 inches of the ground. This is only attached to the truck when towing.
I used two tractor trailer mudflaps cut in half. The height is 2/3s way up the bumper because the main cross piece holding the flaps sits above the receiver and the flaps are 1 inch above this cross bar. I have a square tube that clamps around the receiver allowing easy removal.
Geo
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We have used the same Motor Home whiskers for years. They were too long -- cut them to fit. (Maybe had to cut the width, too.) Mounted right before the rear bumper. Never a problem, they're installed in an aluminum bracket that has held up.
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Stan, I think the motorhome whiskers are probably the way to go. They're really effective and come at a fairly reasonable price. They were designed to provide protection for vehicles being towed under a lot of varied conditions.
Pete
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Dyno testing complete - 167 HP AT 4600 rpm. A stock 1.5L VW diesel is 48 HP.
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I'd call that a success Steve. Congratulations! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Here's hoping for great salt conditions at World Finals. :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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Dyno testing complete - 167 HP AT 4600 rpm. A stock 1.5L VW diesel is 48 HP.
Great numbers, Steve.....Rock On! Now it's RECORD TIME! :cheers:
Gregg
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Got to be happy with that Steve :)
What inlet manifold pressure and temperatures were you seeing?
Congratulations
jon
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I was very happy with the power results. :cheers:
There is still work to be done with the boost controller, I basically had "all or nothing" control over the wastegate.
On full boost, it was about 30 psi above atmosphere. The boost and power came on VERY STRONG. I'll get videos uploaded as soon as I can.
EGT's hit something on the high side of 1400F. I need to decide how hot I'm willing to let them go.
Steve.
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that is freakin awesome Steve!!!
what kind of torque at what rpm did it make?
How hot is too hot for the IDI head? at what point do precups start hitting the hood?
maybe 1200 is a little more reasonable for the amount of time you need to be under power?
Along with iat temps after cooler, can you spray water to keep it cooler?
Also, quite a few guys have had excellent results with Power Service silver bottle with cetane booster, it will help the fuel burn faster, and keep egt's down (like 50dg, not a TON) because fuel is buring more in cylinder.
can timing be advanced a degree or two or three to keep temps down? or will that bring your cylinder pressures too high? (result is more power, but much lower life expectancy)
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Got to love them little VW diesels. So much potential in that little package.
Another Idea for a mud flap if you are building a bar for your receiver hitch. If you have a local gravel pit that uses conveyors sometimes you can get used conveyor belt. Varies in width but two, three and four feet are common and cut it to however wide your tow vehicle is. Heavy duty as all get out. We use it as a full width mud flap on gravel trailers.
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Dyno testing complete - 167 HP AT 4600 rpm. A stock 1.5L VW diesel is 48 HP.
It doesn't look like you pulled the engine, so I'll assume that's at the wheels.
Which makes it all the more impressive! :cheers:
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I agree! There's a lot lost getting that power to the ground. That's awesome Steve!! Here's to dry weather for the next couple weeks! :cheers:
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estimated 200-215 flywheel hp, on a turbo rated at 25-27lbs/min that is NOT a bad output for a diesel, that is small, on a non crossflow head.
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Yes, that was power at the wheels.
I am 100% prepared to run it as-is at the World Finals.
If WF is cancelled, I will then have plenty of time to do other tuning. Water injection is certainly on the list of potential activities.
Cetane booster is not allowed - the event fuel must be used as-is.
I didn't have time to mess around with the pump timing, although there may be a few more ponies hiding in there.
Just FYI - I ran through about 30# of ice and 2 gallons of water through the intercooler. I put about 20# of ice in the intercooler about 1 hour before testing began, then added 2 gals of water right before the first test. I think it was after the 3rd test, the dyno operator / class instructor grabbed the supply hose to the intercooler and said it wasn't cold. We popped the lid of the IC open, and all the ice was gone.
We put in another 10# of ice for the last 2 dyno pulls before calling it a night.
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Steve- awesome job! How much FWTQ?
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Here's a video link of one of the pulls (I think it might be the 3rd run, which gave the best results)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NYikOly9S0
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238 Ft-Lbs of torque at 2818 rpm.
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Looks like it was a good idea to have those tow bar mounts on.
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I liked the smoke and I liked the fact that the truck was so firmly in position. Often times vehicles seem to move a round a bit even when well tied down. That may be attributable to the front wheel drive in this case.
I didn't like where the instructor or whatever positioned himself. I've seen a tire tread leave on a chassis dyno. It wouldn't be pretty.
Pete
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Great numbers Steve! Thanks for sharing the video clip. Hope the weather holds out and the salt dries. Will be neat to see the little Rampage in person and meet you.
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Here's an in-cab video shot during the same dyno pull (I think).
The gauge on the far right is boost. Straight up (12:00 position) is 25 psi.
The gauge on the far left is EGT. Straight up on that gauge is 1250F
Straight up on the tach is 6,000 rpm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cC_moP40R5A
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Sounds great!
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Since I am NOT on the road to Wendover this morning, I decided that I needed to do something Rampage related. I towed it into town and putted up and down the main drag for a little while, before there was any significant traffic.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1869_zpsddc3da4e.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1869_zpsddc3da4e.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1870_zps7acfb0f4.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1870_zps7acfb0f4.jpg.html)
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Right in front of a bike store..coincidence? I think not lol :cheers:
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I certainly like it's stance.
FREUD
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I like that Missouri chin spoiler.
So when the patrol office drives by, and says, "Hey, what the hell is that?", he can do a double take and then say, "Oh, never mind - it's got plates." :-D
Freud's spot on with the stance assessment.
So what's next year's plan? Speedweek, WOS or Finals?
As quick as it is, a trip to Wilmington for a 1 mile shake down might not be a bad idea . . .
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Steve, is that a Co-motion tandem?
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It certainly is. The Hub is a Co-Motion dealer. The only one I know of.
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As of right now, my plan is to work on some off-season improvements, with an eye towards running at Wilmington Ohio early in their 2014 season, followed by SpeedWeek on the Salt Flats in August. That's the Grand-Daddy of all the meets. I wouldn't want to take a chance of missing SpeedWeek, then having the subsequent events rained out again.
Steve.
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It certainly is. The Hub is a Co-Motion dealer. The only one I know of.
Yes, I am sick. I nailed that with a thumbnail :-o A pal up here sells them. I have only had a Fisher Gemeni, an Ibis Cousin It and a Burly with a Softride stoker beam in my life. Ridden a couple Trek road tandems on club rides when they were doing them 20+ years ago.
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Pics are GREAT and I especially like the license plate spoiler! But Officer, this IS my daily driver! :-D :-D :-D
LOVE the stance of the truck as well.
Come to Wilmington.....You will not be sorry. It REALLY is a wonderful track!
Gregg
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In the small town of Festus, MO, there's a guy who runs a small, nondescript pinstriping/signpainting business. The guy doesn't advertise, and his shop shows no outward signs of the coolness that lurks inside.
The guy goes by the name of Mr. C (Greg Clark). Every year, he holds a "Panel Jam", with pinstripers, signpainters, and traditional hotrodders attending from all over the country. All kinds of painting was going on all day long. Many of the artists set up inside his shop, striping everything from trash cans to ceiling fans, skateboards, human flesh, etc. This past Saturday, he held the 2013 Jam.
I gimped my Rampage across town for the event, hoping to convince one of the stripers to do some work on my little green truck. I had to take a set of ramps with me to get up on the curb of Mr. C's shop, but the ride was uneventful, otherwise.
Anyway, after hanging out and talking cars/trucks/land speed racing for a while, a guy named Ron Myers took a liking to my Rampage, and agreed to so some work on it. The results are nothing short of fantastic. Here are some pics of the panel jam, some of the results on my Rampage, and a few more of the overall event.
Steve.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1897_zpse1efd303.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1897_zpse1efd303.jpg.html)
Ron Myers at work. He's been pinstriping since 1958.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1899_zps903ffa97.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1899_zps903ffa97.jpg.html)
Partially finished work on the hood.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1902_zps69ddf878.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1902_zps69ddf878.jpg.html)
Mr. C's pickup. He's a RatFink kind of guy.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1908_zps3b7b3169.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1908_zps3b7b3169.jpg.html)
Ron Myers doing some more work on the nose of the Rampage.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1915_zps034d86c7.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1915_zps034d86c7.jpg.html)
Tailgate of the Rampage
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1920_zpse968c756.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1920_zpse968c756.jpg.html)
Inside Mr. C's shop.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1933_zps28a350b0.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1933_zps28a350b0.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1934_zps40b42a34.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1934_zps40b42a34.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/DSC_1946_zps994d9fbc.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/DSC_1946_zps994d9fbc.jpg.html)
I could not be happier with the pinstriping work. Really looking forward to the next opportunity to have my SCTA number painted on the doors by another one of the artists (a guy who goes by Van Gogh will be doing the numbering).
Steve.
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What luck! Striping looks too notch :cheers:
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Looks awesome Steve! One can never go wrong with pinstriping!
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The level of talent doing the pinstriping and paint work at this event was incredible. Ron Myers has been doing this since 1958 - his dedication, skill, and artistic vision was obvious to all. I'm guessing there were 20 or more artists at work during the day.
Here's another quick pic of the outside of the shop, taken fairly early in the day. As the day went on, more and more cool cars showed up, filling the neighbor's parking lots as well.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/PanelJam_zps98f36c7d.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/PanelJam_zps98f36c7d.jpg.html)
I spent some time talking to a guy named Royce (forgot his last name), who runs a Chevette in F/Gas Coupe, using an Ecotec 4 cylinder for power, through the stock Chevette automatic trans and rearend. He's run at Bonneville and Wilmington, OH.
Now, I need to go and try to find some pics of his Chevette.
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REALLY cool story of what must have been a fantastic day! Pinstripes look right at home on the truck!
As for the Chevette, I remember seeing it at one of the ECTA meets earlier this year but did not get a pic of it. Just did a quick search on the ECTA site and his name is Royce Lindsey.
Car ran at the April meet and here is their run log:
F/GC - 'Unblown Gas Coupe - /GC' - Entries: 3 Run 1 Run 2 Run 3 Run 4 Run 5 Run 6 Best Speed
293 Butch Lindsey III GEN. Racing 1985 Chev Chevette 107.8900 118.9800 118.9800
SP1: 94.4000 SP1:104.8500
293A Royce Lindsey III Gen. Racing 1985 Chev Chevette
293B Jim Peirick III Gen. Racing 1985 Chev. Chevette
Gregg
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Striping looks great@! :cheers:
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Sweet striping!
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That's awesome Steve. It looks great. She's come a long way and now it's pure hot rod. You should be proud of your achievement.You rock!!! :cheers:
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Steve;
It is nice to see that the art of pinstriping by hand is still alive & well. "Pinheads" (as they call themselves) have a rare talent; a can of One-Shot in their hands becomes amazing art with the application of sure steady brushwork.
I have a car with striping by "Shaky Jake" (Chuck Babbitt), one of the old-time stripers.
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How did he get to be called Shaky?. Nothing shaky in his work. It's like Tiny, he's always 6'3" and 300. :-D
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How did he get to be called Shaky?. Nothing shaky in his work. It's like Tiny, he's always 6'3" and 300. :-D
According to a newspaper interview back in 1970, he said that nobody paid any attention to "Babbitt" so he assumed the name Shaky Jake (usually misspelled "Shakey"). I guess it was his tongue-in-cheek reference to his steady hand. Charles Babbitt died in '87.
Most stripers have nicknames; easy to remember, I guess-- like von Dutch. How many know that his name was actually Kenny Howard?
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By the looks of the crowd at Mr. C's Panel Jam, the next generation of stripers is going to have some serious talent as well. Lots of folks under 30 years of age were there, learning and practicing the craft.
Gregg:
Thanks for the information regarding Royce Lindsey. He ran at SpeedWeek 2012, as well, but I haven't seen any photos of his Chevette from that event, either.
The only pic he had was on his cellphone, which wasn't a very good pic. I'm going to see if I can dig a little deeper and find a pic.
Steve.
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Shaky did my roadster, just before his demise, 3 whites ago. He was pretty sick and still trying to work outta a place down by the beach. Had just put the roadster back together (again) and the Enderles ate two tanks of gas comin' and goin' for the free (I'd traded him some years before for some little books -- R&C, Honk, etc.) striping job. A guy next to him had a few 2-cylinder Crosleys that I'd never seen before. This had to be 30-40 years ago.
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Keep on Steve and the truck will be too purty to muck up with salt. :-D
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SteveM, I'd check Ray the Rats foto section (http://www.chevyasylum.com/) for fotos of Royce Lindsey at B'ville.
FREUD
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I didn't see any pics of Royce's Chevette at SpeedWeek, but I did see a few photos of it running at Wilmington, on one of the "Photo for sale" type sites.
I couldn't figure out how to post a link to an actual photo, though. I'll have to try again.
Steve.
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Let's see if this works.....
Top left hand corner of page 19.
http://www.photoreflect.com/store/ThumbPage.aspx?e=8917616&g=0U1C004U00
Steve
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It only goes to page 17 on my computer Steve. :? :? :?
Pete
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Hmmm, then maybe try page 15 or 16? :?
It's a pretty plain-Jane looking Chevette.
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Let's see if this works....
http://www.photoreflect.com/store/Orderpage.aspx?pi=0U1C004U000865&po=865&pc=963
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Worked fine the first time for me. Plain Jane grey Chevette. If memory serves me correctly I've never seen a Chevette that wasn't grey.
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That worked. Couldn't be much more Plain Jane than that!
I usually use the MAC when I'm on landracing.com and that may have something to do with how the display works.
Pete
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man that paint is killer
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Steve, how are things going?
Wade
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Update?
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Updates - I'm just keeping her snuggly warm in the garage right now. The last nice day (shortly before Christmas), I pulled her out onto the driveway just to fire up the engine and let it come to operating temps.
I have a few updates / improvements planned for the winter/spring. Nothing major, but I will be installing a new master cylinder and front brakes before running at the Ohio Mile in June. I'd also like to buy and install a water injection system, "Just in case" the EGT's get too high for comfort.
I want to tweak the seat mounting position, and get a new set of safety belts.
Beyond those items, I'm trying to avoid spending a bunch of money, as the Speed Week trip is going to cut into my pocket pretty deep.
Right now, my credit card is still recovering from the Holiday season.
Steve.
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I haven't been able to participate in the Tuesday evening chats recently, either. That's the night that I "work out" with a bunch of my cycling teammates.
We have a group workout session at a local place called the Sports Medicine and Training Center (SMTC). I certainly haven't gained any fitness, but I think these regular sessions have at least helped me to not lose fitness as fast over the winter.
It was -22F here yesterday. I'm looking forward to the 110F temps of Speed Week right now.
Steve.
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Dang!! I am sitting at 40~ dg right now here in north texas. I cant even comprehend -22!!!!!
Why have you(and everyone else up there) not moved south yet? Industry will move down with you. And everyone will be happy come winter time. Air conditioner in summer makes it liveable. Not just surviveable.
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Why have you(and everyone else up there) not moved south yet? Industry will move down with you.
I'm not above trading Bratwurst for Brisket, but that train done left the station a LONG time ago.
Thinking about a trip to Turkey Texas for the Bob Wills Day celebration in April.
Festus is on the way, if I'm not mistaken . . .
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Dang!! I am sitting at 40~ dg right now here in north texas. I cant even comprehend -22!!!!!
Why have you(and everyone else up there) not moved south yet? Industry will move down with you. And everyone will be happy come winter time. Air conditioner in summer makes it liveable. Not just surviveable.
It's fun to embrace all 4 seasons here in St Louis. It gets plenty hot in the summertime (regularly100F+, with about 2000% humidity). Spring and fall are very comfortable, and winters are generally mild, typically with a few cold snaps thrown in. This current "cold snap" has affected most of the Midwest and East coast with below zero temps). Stick around until the weekend, it's supposed to be up in the 40's on Sunday. St Louis gets a good balance of weather.
It's the folks up in Minot, ND and such places that make me scratch my head.
Steve.
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Why have you(and everyone else up there) not moved south yet? Industry will move down with you.
I'm not above trading Bratwurst for Brisket, but that train done left the station a LONG time ago.
Thinking about a trip to Turkey Texas for the Bob Wills Day celebration in April.
Festus is on the way, if I'm not mistaken . . .
Please stop by, Chris. We have both kinds of music - Country and Western.
I didn't know there was a Bob Wills Day. One of the funniest YouTube videos I've ever seen (since then removed for copyright issues) was the 3 Stooges courtroom scene, edited to fit along with Bob Will and the Texas Playboys, doing "Stay All Night".
Steve.
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C-man asked: "Why have you(and everyone else up there) not moved south yet?"
Well, for one reason, Michigan's Upper Peninsula has about 1/3 of Michigan's total land area -- and about 3% of the population. I'm plenty happy having no neighbors and owning 60 acres of hardwood forest. And the cost of this house on this parcel - would buy you a nice 100x70 lot and a new garage.
We've got no neighbors in sight, no waiting lines at the post office, and lock the house doors once or twice a year. It doesn't get much better than living in Skandia, Michigan (look it up. Hint: Find Marquette, Michigan first, then go 20 miles southeast for Skandia.
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C-man asked: "Why have you(and everyone else up there) not moved south yet?"
Well, for one reason, Michigan's Upper Peninsula has about 1/3 of Michigan's total land area -- and about 3% of the population.
And about 70% of the snow . . .
We've got no neighbors in sight, no waiting lines at the post office,
Ooooh - a post office!
I suppose that became a necessity when the guy who fed the carrier pigeons fell through the ice while fishing. :roll:
You and Nancy are heartier than me.
:wink:
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MM said "And about 70% of the snow . . ."
What's your point Chris? 15 feet of snow a year keeps the riff-raff from moving up here from Milwaukee and other towns.
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:-D :-D :-D :-D
Ouch.
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Kate and I actually honeymooned in the U.P.
It's like Niagara Falls, except the water is snow . . . :wink:
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Those UPers exaggerate about their snow all the time... can't really take them too seriously.
I had to go fix an airplane up there one spring... the guys called and told me to bring warm clothes, they had 4 feet of fresh snow that fell the night before...when I arrived I had to call BS... turned out they only got 47 inches :-o
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55 degrees here today. I have a guy coming to look at my 54 Chevy and hopefully it will find a new home.
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Yeah. Good luck on selling your '54. I always liked that body style.
It was 52 degrees F on Saturday here. Hard to believe a 74 degree change since Tuesday.
Steve
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The snow is melting away, my hotel room in Wendover is booked for Speed Week, and it's time to start working on that list of improvements to the Rampage.
If the weather holds up through the weekend, I think I'll roll it out of the garage and fire it up. It's about time to make some black smoke.
Steve
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If the weather holds up through the weekend, I think I'll roll it out of the garage and fire it up. It's about time to make some black smoke.
Steve
Sounds like a plan!
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The snow is melting away, my hotel room in Wendover is booked for Speed Week, and it's time to start working on that list of improvements to the Rampage.
If the weather holds up through the weekend, I think I'll roll it out of the garage and fire it up. It's about time to make some black smoke.
Steve
Glad to hear you got your room for SpeedWeek. :cheers:
You'll be AMAZED by the sights and sounds and you're gonna have fun to boot!
Post up some pics or vids when you're out Choo-Chooing! :-D
Gregg
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Warmer weather allows a man's thoughts to turn towards racing. It seems like the deep freeze conditions we have had this winter have rendered my Rampage virtually "Out of sight, out of mind". I have it covered with blankets, and have some small heat sources placed under the chassis and engine compartment to keep her nice and cozy in the garage.
Our low temp this winter was about -25F, but the Rampage hibernated in comfort.
Steve.
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We had at or above record temps here in the valley of the sun ( Phoenix for those who arent familiar with the nickname ) last week. Its too freaking early to be near 90 degrees. Funny when I read that people are looking foward to the 100+ temps that the salt is capable of throwing at us. Thats about the only reason Id be outside in those temps, usually im in my air conditioned house or office bldg. Cant wait to see the Rampage at SW and meet you Steve ( and see those who I met last year again )
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Warmer weather makes me want to ride my bike!
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I should have gotten a bike ride in yesterday, but I misremembered the start time of our shop ride. All winter long, we have been riding trainers at 8:00 a.m. on Saturday mornings. However, our regular shop ride time is 7:30. Yesterday was the first day that the shop deemed it warm enough to ride outside since 2013. I forgot to wake up early enough to join the shop ride. DOH!, so I went to my day job instead.
Today, I got back on the Rampage project in earnest. I fitted a curved bar to the roll cage above my head, and re-mounted the seat. Now, the seat is about 1" lower, and angles back a bit more. Combined with the curved overhead bar (the old one was straight across), I have gained about 3-1/2" of distance between my helmet and the top bar.
No pics yet, but will load some up soon.
Steve.
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Well, we had an ice/sleet/snow storm over the weekend, and it was 3 degrees F this morning.
I did get to spend a little quality time in the garage yesterday, though. I removed the seat, fire bottle, and rear window, in anticipation of working on the interior of the truck. I also cut out what was left of the old overhead bar, which was situated just a bit too close to my helmet.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_33331_zpsa2ce6ae1.jpg)
I need to weld the new overhead bar into the cage, change the seat mounting brackets, and do several other odds and ends that didn't get done during last summer's push to get the thing track-worthy. When that work is done, a fresh coat of paint will be applied to all of the affected surfaces before re-assembling the interior.
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Steve, getting your sleet tonight :-( been waiting for more than a week of good weather to start plucking on Amys camaro. Don't have much to do this year. Good to see the little truck out from under the blankies.
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No more sleet in the forecast - but we are under a tornado watch right now.
In any event, threatening weather be damned, I have to keep moving on this project - getting ready for The Ohio Mile.
Since I set this thing up for B-ville originally, I used a minimally effective single pot "Dune Buggy" master cylinder for the rear brakes only.
At Ohio, I understand that they prefer that the vehicle should actually stop before running off the end of the pavement. To that end, I'm installing brakes on all 4 corners, controlled by an actual NOS Mopar master cylinder.
I'm also working on some of the finer points of the interior layout, and have fitted an "underdrive" crank pulley which will slow down the water pump and alternator a bit. It should also get rid of the noticeable wobble that was present in the stamped steel OEM pulley.
Anyway - I'm still working on this thing, and plan to be running in Ohio during the month of June, and at Bonneville in August.
Steve.
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Great to hear Steve! I was really hoping to see you run last year. You'll be ready in August! Can't wait to see how the little truck shakes out. :cheers:
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Same here, and I also can't wait to see that Henry J at some point. :cheers:
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On almost as important stuff......................hows the bike racing!?!?! I am back riding as much as I can. Health=many racing years!
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The racing is OK for the amount of training I'm putting in (not a whole lot). As you know, to be good at bike racing is a HUGE time commitment.
I'm doing our local "Tuesday Night World's Championship" crit series, where I can hang in pretty well in the "B" race, but the "A" race is out of reach for my level of fitness. The "C" race is too deadly to even talk about.
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Steve,
Today, I met Royce Lindsey that you talked with at Mr. C's Panel Jam last October.
His Chevette is an N/A 2.4 Ecotec and runs in F/GC.
Here are some pics of his car/engine:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Wilmington%2005022014/IMG_0104_zps003df06a.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Wilmington%2005022014/IMG_0125_zpsee7d5ac4.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Wilmington%2005022014/IMG_0126_zps53aeca64.jpg)
His team is called 3rd Gen Racing and it consists of him, his dad Butch and his son Brady.....Pretty COOL in my book!
Gregg
PS:
REALLY looking forward to seeing you and your Rampage here next month! You're gonna LOVE this place!
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Steve,
Today, I met Royce Lindsey that you talked with at Mr. C's Panel Jam last October.
His Chevette is an N/A 2.4 Ecotec and runs in F/GC.
Here are some pics of his car/engine:
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Wilmington%2005022014/IMG_0104_zps003df06a.jpg)
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Wilmington%2005022014/IMG_0125_zpsee7d5ac4.jpg)
Wow thats pretty cool, Ive never seen a naturally aspirated Ecotec before. If I ever build a REMR, thats one of the engines I would consider running albeit fuel injected
(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad318/GKABBT/Wilmington%2005022014/IMG_0126_zps53aeca64.jpg)
His team is called 3rd Gen Racing and it consists of him, his dad Butch and his son Brady.....Pretty COOL in my book!
Gregg
PS:
REALLY looking forward to seeing you and your Rampage here next month! You're gonna LOVE this place!
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Is that still fwd? :?
Mike
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Is that still fwd? :?
Mike
Mike,
Chevettes were RWD and used a tiny 6.5" diff. As Steve posted back in October, Royce told him that this one uses the stock trans.
I'll check with Royce tomorrow and see what he is using for both.
Gregg
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Is that still fwd? :?
Mike
Mike,
Chevettes were RWD and used a tiny 6.5" diff. As Steve posted back in October, Royce told him that this one uses the stock trans.
I'll check with Royce tomorrow and see what he is using for both.
Gregg
I talked with Royce today. The trans is a modified Chevette unit with a custom engine adapter plate and the rear end stock Chevette with a 3.42 gears.
He ran 119 today, with a nasty headwind, and hopes for better speeds tomorrow.
Gregg
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Didn't the Chevette use the same transmission as the Vega, which, I believe, was just a Saginaw 4 gear?
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Didn't the Chevette use the same transmission as the Vega, which, I believe, was just a Saginaw 4 gear?
My bad for not being more specific on this Chris.....Royce is using the Chevette automatic transmission. I just did a Google and see that it is a GM Turbo-Hydromatic 180. Same trans might have been used in the Vega as well.
Gregg
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That Chevette is cooler than the other side of my pillow!
Yes, Royce was telling me about their Ecotec project, it looks right at home.
The location of their brake master cylinder is certainly thinking outside the box. I can't tell, but it looks like the actuating rod has a very long and circuitous path from the pedal to the cylinder.
I spend a good chunk of the afternoon removing the old brake lines, installing new ones, and washing brake fluid out of my hair.
Gearing up for June, Gregg - see you there.
Steve.
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That Chevette is cooler than the other side of my pillow!
Yes, Royce was telling me about their Ecotec project, it looks right at home.
The location of their brake master cylinder is certainly thinking outside the box. I can't tell, but it looks like the actuating rod has a very long and circuitous path from the pedal to the cylinder.
I spend a good chunk of the afternoon removing the old brake lines, installing new ones, and washing brake fluid out of my hair.
Gearing up for June, Gregg - see you there.
Steve.
Agreed that Royce's Chevette is a cool and fast little car. He, his dad Butch and son Brady are all cool as well!
As far as the Ecotec swap, he did have to modify the k-frame to lower the engine because it is so tall.
The swap is real clean and looks like it came from the factory.
The master cylinder mounting/actuating rod was questioned yesterday in tech and was approved.
I know what you mean about brake fluid.....nasty stuff to play with LOL!
See you in June or maybe sooner if Justin gets my engine completed!
As I keep telling, you're gonna LOVE this place.
Gregg
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After too much delay, I got my 4-wheel brake system buttoned up and bled last night. It uses a somewhat rare (1 year only) manual brakes master cyl from an '82 Chrysler Town & Country, which was spec'ed by our very own T-Man.
The master cyl is a perfect fit, and clears everything else under the hood. The front disks are from a '92 Plymouth Acclaim, and the rears are from a '91-ish Lebaron. With new lines all around, new hardware kits, wheel cylinders, pads, and shoes - this thing is probably one of the best stopping '84 Rampages still in existence.
Just 4 weeks until the Ohio Mile.
Steve.
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I also made my own "solid" front motor mount. I wasn't too happy about the amount of movement that my engine is allowed under-hood, so I bought a replacement rubber motor mount, and filled all the open space with castable urethane.
Hopefully this will cut down on the excess engine movement. (I still have 2 other mounts to do).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_46711_zps819d7690.jpg)
iphone for size comparison.
Steve
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That's a great idea, Steve!
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Thanks.
For anyone interested, here is the stuff that we use at work, and what I used to fill the open spaces in a rubber motor mount:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_46721_zpsad910f85.jpg)
It's available in different hardnesses.
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After too much delay, I got my 4-wheel brake system buttoned up and bled last night. It uses a somewhat rare (1 year only) manual brakes master cyl from an '82 Chrysler Town & Country, which was spec'ed by our very own T-Man.
Steve.
Thanks for the props Steve!
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No problem - thanks for spec'ing out that rare hardware.
Steve.
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No problem - thanks for spec'ing out that rare hardware.
Steve.
I am always happy to help out folks matching brake hardware. Things work well when you do not do things cafeteria style!
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I am always happy to help out folks matching brake hardware. Things work well when you do not do things cafeteria style!
TMAN - PM sent
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I am always happy to help out folks matching brake hardware. Things work well when you do not do things cafeteria style!
TMAN - PM sent
Got it, thanks!
Steve, have you been riding? I am back into my old ways and am actually getting more car stuff done now that I am riding 2-4 nights a week. New full sus mtn bike makes life fun!
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So, I went out to Festus, MO to pick up the engine for my Rampage from JMB Performance.
Naturally, since I was there, I had to meet up with Steve. We had breakfast this morning and then went to his house to see his Rampage. All I can say is cooler than cool! He rolled it out of the garage and started it up.
Diesel smoke in the morning is something to experience.....I wish I hadn't forgotten my camera!
Truck is about ready for it's LSR debut in Wilmington in a few short weeks!
Steve, REALLY good seeing you again and many thanks for taking the time for me.
I'll see you in Wilmington and I'll be sure to get some pics and vids of you smoking down the mile!!!!!
Gregg
PS
Your lime green and orange paint scheme work together really well.....I like it muy mucho!
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Great to see you too, Gregg. Glad you had a safe trip home. Just a quick update - I spent a little time adjusting the front suspension for ride height and toe-in this evening.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/3DF61311-59F6-4C34-B325-749C5B96AB80_zpsmcydknmk.jpg)
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She's just about ready for The Ohio Mile. Just a quick shake-down trip around the neighborhood. There were no mosquitos in the area after this drive-around.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_49251_zps55614450.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_49051_zpse657888e.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_49071_zpscf260a57.jpg)
Steve
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Ah. great, Steve. You're driving your own-built race car. I suppose the lady in the pink hat stood there staring with wonder and awe when you went past her.
Corngratulations on getting the car ready to run on the racetrack this weekend. Be safe, go fast, and HAVE FUN! :cheers: :cheers:
Speaking of this weekend, see the post I'm about to make on this Forum.
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That lady's husband (My Crew Chief) was actually driving the Rampage on that shake-down. I was the guy behind the camera. She was probably just shaking her head.
Steve.
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Good luck this weekend, the truck looks great!
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I am really excited to see how she does! Its been a long road.
Good luck!
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Good Luck Steve, she looks great and you definitely chose the right color. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Good luck Steve!
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Best of luck to you Steve!!!!! ROLL COAL!!!!!!
-
Steve:
Good luck and good racing. Don't forget about us guys stuck 1,100 miles to the south. Post a picture or two. You Rampage is just plain cool.
BR
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If I heard correctly: 121.xxx on his first pass, which is 16mph faster than the B'ville record.
:cheers: :cheers:
Mike
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Way to go Steve! :cheers:
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I must have heard correctly, he has two 123.xxx runs and I may missed a couple.
No mosquitoes at W-ton today I'd bet. :cheers:
Mike
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wow!
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Steve. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Top notch effort there Steve, Congrats :cheers:
Roll on Speedweek!
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Well done at Wilmington Steve. We're looking forward to what it'll do on the salt. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Steve, your Green Machine did a great job-- congratulations! :cheers:
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Steve,
I gotta add my :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: as well!
Truck sure draws a crowd in the pits/staging lanes and is also fantastic looking at speed on the track!
Congrats on the record here in Wilmington......Now go get the one at Bonneville!
EXCELLENT execution and results from beginning to end!
Gregg
PS
The T-Shirts on you and your guys look awesome as well!
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We are safe and sound, back at home.
What a fantastic weekend! We had a great time from the moment we hooked up the trailer until we arrived back home.
Big, Big thanks to everyone who showed encouragement and support.
More stories later, gonna spend some time with my family now.
Steve.
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Looking forward to the stories Steve!
-
Like Trent, looking forward to the stories!
Still blows me away that this was your 1st ever land speed event, spectator or competitor!
Gregg
PS
Looked like you had some REALLY good T-shirt sales too.....LOL!
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It ran flawlessly and broke a record on the first outing?.
What does that say???
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Hard work and preparation pays!
Congratulations!
Ed
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Big thanks to everyone for their support and encouragement. I have typed up a first-day trip report, which is shown below. I didn't have time to take many photos, but my friend Darrell did. I'll get the memory card from his camera and make an album as soon as possible.
Anyway, here's the first installment of the trip report:
I had the truck and trailer loaded and parked on the street Thursday night, in anticipation of heading to Wilmington on Friday afternoon. My plan was to go to work Friday morning, then go to lunch and not come back to work until Monday.
Per the plan, I left work shortly after 11 a.m., headed home, and started to set my mind on the rest of the weekend. My 12 year old son, Ben, had his stuff packed, and was waiting for me to get home so we could head out. After putting our luggage and last-minute items in the trailer, we rolled out. On the way down the street, we picked up our Crew Chief, Terry, who happens to be our neighbor, and headed across town.
Our first stop was at Bauman Oil, who is a major contributor to our LSR effort. They provided all the fluids for the race and tow vehicles, as well as allowing full access to their shop area, where the Rampage was painted. We showed off the truck to the guys at Bauman, fueled up, and headed North to pick up the remaining crew member, Darrell, before turning our eyes and the rig towards the East.
After stops for food, fuel, and nature breaks, we celebrated our entry into the great state of Ohio with a dinnertime meal of Skyline Chili (2 cheese coneys and a small 5-way for me) before arriving at the hotel in Wilmington some time after 10 p.m. We found a spot to park the truck and trailer, and turned in for the evening.
Saturday morning, we were up bright and early (4:30 Central time). That 1 hour time difference doesnโt seem like much, but it makes a difference. When itโs 9:30 at night, and the sun is just setting, itโs noticeable. The HIEโs breakfast was very nice, with plenty of hot and cold options, including an automatic pancake maker, hot biscuits and gravy, good coffee, fresh fruit, etc.
Gregg Adams was right there, waiting in front of the hotel, and helped us all day long as if he were our personal concierge. I canโt thank Gregg enough for all the help he provided!
We arrived at the track shortly before 7 a.m., got the Rampage unloaded and moved over to Tech Inspection, and I headed over to meet with Keith Turk for rookie orientation. Keith did a great job with the orientation, and by the time it was over, I got back to Tech in time to go over a couple of things with the inspector. I need to make some changes to the window/door net before SpeedWeek, and we fixed a small fuel dribble from a vent in the filter/water separator housing.
After completing my bailout, the inspection was signed off, I got my Rookie sticker for my helmet, and we headed back to the pits for preparation before running. At that time, we finished a few housekeeping tasks on the trailer, put ice and water in the icewater tank, and headed for the staging lanes.
Unfortunately, by the time we got in line for staging, someone hit the timing lights at the 1 mile mark, and runs were suspended until the lights were replaced. Iโm estimating that the track was shut down for somewhere in the range of 1-1/2 hours, but I didnโt really pay attention. This delay allowed everyone to relax, check out the other race vehicles, do some bench racing and visiting.
When racing resumed, we were probably about 15th or 20th in line. The following runs progressed smoothly. It didnโt take long for us to be 5 back from the start line, at which point in time my Crew Chief tightened my belts, snapped the window net in place, and stayed with me until I got to the starting line.
We had set the turbo boost controller on a pretty conservative adjustment, basically allowing the turbo and wastegate to act as if there were no boost controller (wastegate opens about 15-16 psi).
The official Starter did a great job, giving me clear hand signals and finally giving me the go-ahead to run. The butterflies were in my stomach, but not too bad. I mainly wanted to protect the engine and get the first rookie run under my belt.
The Rampage pulled strong, especially in the higher rpms. I had mounted a GarminEdge 500 GPS unit to the dash, and I was very pleased to see speeds up around 120 mph through the traps. The actual measured speed for this first run was 121.xxx mph. The response I got coming back along the return road was phenomenal. I was getting a lot of โthumbs upโ from folks I had just met, folks I knew, and some I had never met.
I pulled right back into the staging line, and turned up the turbo boost a bit. The second run yielded 20 psi of boost, and a slightly faster 123.2xx mph.
At that point, I was feeling very good about how the Rampage was running and returned to the pits. After a racetrack meal of pizza and Gatorate, I had a much-welcome visit from some VW Diesel guys who came to Wilmington from other parts of Ohio. These were guys from VW Diesel message boards whom I had never met in person, but knew only from the internet.
There was time for a couple of more runs in the afternoon, but I only made 1 more pass on Saturday. This one was on full boost (30 psi+). The Rampage left the line hard, spinning the tires a bit and charging very hard through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. On the 3-4 shift, I completely missed 4th gear and probably coasted a couple of hundred feet before finding 4th, letting the clutch out, and accelerating again. It pulled well in 4th gear down the rest of the track, giving the fastest run of 123.3 mph. I really felt like it had 125 mph potential, but I totally botched the 3-4 shift. I think I need to spend some time adjusting the shift linkage. Those VW and Dodge Omni shifter setups are finicky.
At that point, it was somewhere around 5 p.m. My son wanted to go see the new XMEN movie, which was playing at the Wilmington theater at 6:55, so we headed back to the hotel and into town. A quick meal at Gold Star Chili provided fuel for the rest of the evening.
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Your first event! How cool. You'll remember it for a long, loonng time, Steve. The fact that the truck ran well is good, too, but just being there for the people and the time with Ben -- yup. you're hooked. Corngratulations.
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I'm hooked for sure. I need to get my credit card to cooperate with my addiction.
Here's a video of Sunday's run, at 122.something mph.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBGNUAL5nzw&feature=youtu.be
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Nice run, good video, Steve.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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:cheers:
Mike
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Nice job Steve!
Hope you have continued success.
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Fordboy
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Steve -
Runs like a watch!
One concern. Maybe it's an optical illusion, but it looks like your steering wheel hub is kind of loose on the steering shaft. Stan Johnson got a warning at Bonneville for a similar issue, so best to catch it in Missouri than Utah.
Other than that, congratulations!
Chris
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great to speak to you in line great truck
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Hate I missed that Steve. Truthfully I am sure most everyone thought your run were epic. Go show them how it's done at speedweek. :cheers: :cheers: Now if we can get Gregg "up to speed".
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Now if we can get Gregg "up to speed".
I expect Gregg has had a renewed enthusiasm after this last weekend.
His new K-member should have arrived - let's egg him on a bit.
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Chris:
I think Gregg has the fever, for sure. We can just add fuel to the fire.
With respect to the steering hub, I'll try to take a short movie to show the fitment. I think it's typical of the hex-type setups. Mechanically, it's solid, but does have some wiggle room. I think I have some ways to minimize the movement.
Steve.
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Chris:
I think Gregg has the fever, for sure. We can just add fuel to the fire.
With respect to the steering hub, I'll try to take a short movie to show the fitment. I think it's typical of the hex-type setups. Mechanically, it's solid, but does have some wiggle room. I think I have some ways to minimize the movement.
Steve.
Taking a break from the garage, YEAH!
As for the steering hub, that's why I ditched the hex on mine and went with spline.....No movement at all!
Gregg
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Steve;
I've used both hex and spline quick-release steering wheel hubs and I agree that the hex design does have an annoying amount of play. On one car I tapped the hub for a 1/4-28 setscrew to tighten it up just short of locking it on. It helped but the Mark Williams spline that I'm using on my black Mirage is a far nicer solution. It is more expensive but when you're travelling fast, it feels better to have a more positive steering input.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Awesome Steve! That's gotta be a great feeling! Congrats!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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I am very happy with the way the Rampage ran at Ohio, and was probably even more happy with the reception we got there. It was me, my Crew Chief, my son, and another semi-Crew Chief.
I was amazed at how many people complimented the Rampage, saying that they had followed the build online, and that they were impressed with the quality of it.
From my standpoint, the vehicle is nothing special, just a collection of parts to run in a certain class. Something about it must have caught people's fancy, though, because it was very well received.
I have a few things to work on before Bonneville SpeedWeek, but feel pretty good about our chances to be competitive against the SCTA record. I can't take anything for granted, just want to put my best foot forward and be competitive.
Steve.
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Then again, maybe it was the diesel fumes that affected everyone. :-D
#672 H/DT was the only compression ignition engine racing at Ohio, so we had to send a crew member back into town to buy some "event diesel". :cheers:
Steve.
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Steve:
Great job.
As for Bonneville, take everything you think you will need so you will not need it.
BR
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From my standpoint, the vehicle is nothing special, just a collection of parts to run in a certain class. Something about it must have caught people's fancy, though, because it was very well received.
Steve.
Steve, they are all special. You put your time, effort, money, and brains into that truck. Our camaro is nothing special, a block from mexico, a car that at one time ran in a mud pit and parts from from all the cheapest places in can find. I guess I need to take a ride to Greggs.
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Here is my 2 cents
I had a hotrod friend years ago that I asked the "WHY" question and he answered in the most basic and simple terms. He said, "Bill it's mine and it makes me happy." From that moment on I never had to ask someone why again.
BR
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Here is my 2 cents
I had a hotrod friend years ago that I asked the "WHY" question and he answered in the most basic and simple terms. He said, "Bill it's mine and it makes me happy." From that moment on I never had to ask someone why again.
BR
You are a very rare exception to this rule: Anyone who asks "Why?" will never understand-- George Leigh-Mallory got so exasperated by people asking why he climbed a mountain, he began replying simply "Because it's there!". People who only sit in front of their TV do not, and will never, understand why we do this stuff.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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If I may continue this digression about why we do this stuff - on the tailgate of our pickup we've got the lines saying "We're spending the kid's inheritance". Most likely you've all seen that line a zillion times - nothing new there. But the SECOND line (that I added) does say it pretty well: "But they'll have cool stories to tell about us."
That gives folks yet another bit of insight why we do this. Personal satisfaction is good, and it isn't good to get it from watching a football game on the TV.
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Why not!?
:cheers:
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Steve.
Why?. "Because I can".
And you did. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Our hex fits pretty tight -- plus you can install it so you can see thru it while you're going straight. Don't know if you can when you're not.
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I often see an out of the box thinking vehicle and Ill scratch my head at times but as time goes on I just think to each is own and its what makes that person happy. Who are we to judge right. Steve Ive followed the build since the beginning and Im really hoping to see the Rampage with my own eyes on the salt this year. Well done sir, well done!
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Thank you, Frankie.
When it comes to 1.5 Liter diesel trucks, there are not a whole lot (if any) factory stock options that were ever available in the USA. I can't think of a single truck that was ever offered for sale in the US with a sub-1.5 liter diesel engine. Even the VW Rabbit pickups were all 1.6's if my memory and research are correct.
Over the years, I've always read about Bonneville being the last true bastion of amateur racing and "outside the box" combinations. That is a big draw to me. Building something that isn't a cookie-cutter hot rod is a large part of the adventure.
I've been looking forward to being at Speedweek for a long time (probably 35 years or so). I will do everything in my power to be there in 2014. Barring a natural disaster or family emergency, 2014 will be the first time I set foot on the hallowed ground of Bonneville.
Steve.
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I'll be there with you in spirit bro. :cheers:
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I'll be there with you in spirit bro. :cheers:
Thank you very much, Tauruck.
I just checked the pre-registration for SW 2014, and noticed another H/DT entry. Carbone-Johnston-Wendt, from Florida. A quick Google search for their truck reveals what looks like a VERY serious effort - a chop-top 1947 Crosley pickup...
http://0000pwy.rcomhost.com/
There aren't many vehicles with a smaller frontal area than a Crosley pickup truck, and as the rule changes for 2014, pre-'48 pickup bodies are allowed a 3" "Beauty Chop". File this under "Things that make you go hmmmmmmmmm....."
Steve.
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Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm! :cheers:
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Please enlighten me, whats so hmmmmmmm about it? :?
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I just filed what Steve said. :-D
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The part about the 2014 rulebook being changed to allow pre-48 trucks to have a 3" beauty chop, and the fact that there is a team building a '47 Crosley truck with what looks like an approximate 3" chopped top may be pure coincidence, but it made me go "hmmmmm".
Their Crosley truck looks like it should be extremely competitive with any production truck body in terms of aerodynamics. I'm sorry I didn't think of that design earlier. After a short internet search, I don't think there are any stock-bodied trucks which would have a smaller frontal area than that Crosley, even before it was chopped.
The rulebook previously required bodies to be completely stock. I have to assume that someone lobbied to allow pre-48 (why 1948 as a demarcation date?) to be allowed to utilize chopped tops.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/crosleytruck_zpse07fb9d8.jpg)
Whatever the background behind the 2014 rule change(s) to DT class, that Crosley truck is just plain cool.
Steve.
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In the car classes, it is usually a pre-49 that is allowed a 3" chop. I don't know why the truck is pre-48.
I also don't know why this rule was explicitly changed for 2014 but I know they have allowed 1947 trucks competing in DT to have a 3" chop since 2009.
http://www.scta-bni.org/El%20Mirage/ELM%2009/May/photos/Harnick/Cars_2/0720.JPG
http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,5971.msg88750.html#msg88750
It was discussed then and it was OK'd. I guess it just took 4 years for the wording to get into the rulebook.
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Thanks for the background on the top chops.
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Cardboard air dam
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/5CFF276F-EF51-47E1-AD0F-C891CAEFB98C_zpsfvvfpwg0.jpg)
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I REALLY like but my only question is.....Why didn't you have something like that on at Wilmington last month for your T&T? :? :? :?
Looks like you're gonna need everything against that Crosley!
Gregg
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Juuusssttt a bit on the lloooww side . looks like a trim is in order :)
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It also sticks out a bit past the "1/4" ahead of bumper" rule, but driving it around the block should address both concerns. :-D The concrete road should trim it to more of an exact fit.
On a more serious note, what do you guys recommend in terms of a ground clearance gap?
Also, I'm trying to figure out if I'm better off to go straight down to the bottom edge, or if I should tilt the air dam back a bit so that I can utilize a "splitter" on the lower edge.
Thanks,
Steve.
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SteveM:
I would suggest getting the air dam in compliance with the 1/4" behind the tip of the bumper. It would be a bad day to get to impound and find out the record does not does not stand. I built turn buckles for my air dam braces. That way of I change the rake on the rear I can crank the turn buckle in some to get in compliance. without the lower lip my air dam is 2 1/2" which is what I ran at Maxton. There ain't no place rougher than Maxton. I am set up for 1 1/2" ground clearance and can go down to 1" and up to 2 1/2" by changing out or flipping the lower air dam lip. You can see it bolts on the lower air dam edge with 24 1/4 button heads. It is just under 1/4" behind the bumper tip plumb bob with me in the car and full fuel.
Good luck and looking forward to your adventure.
My 2 cents
BR
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BR:
I'm definitely going to get it in compliance with the rulebook. I saw your thread - thanks for creating it - lots of good information and construction details there. I'm using your pics and ideas as guidance for mine.
My other question is whether it's better to have a horizontal "lip", or "splitter" on the bottom of the air dam, as opposed to a vertical face like your thread shows. I have heard that the horizontal lip (like a piece of angle bolted to the bottom of the air dam) is very beneficial. In order to have the lip and still be in compliance with the 1/4" rule, I'll have to set the whole air dam back a bit.
Thanks for posting.
Steve.
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I REALLY like but my only question is.....Why didn't you have something like that on at Wilmington last month for your T&T? :? :? :?
Looks like you're gonna need everything against that Crosley!
Gregg
Gregg:
I ran out of time to get a real air dam fabbed and installed before Ohio, but I won't show up at Bonneville without one.
Regarding the Crosley, all I can do is make sure to get every bit of performance out of the Rampage that I can find. That's my goal - I don't want to leave anything on the table.
Steve.
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I don't remember where I read this but one car had the lower portion of the air dam(no splitter) made from
corrugated(cardboard) and duct tape/gaffers tape. Let the track decide how high off the ground it needs to be. Then again there might be an aero advantage to XX height off the ground.
Nick
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Quick update:
I decided to fab the air dam from something more substantial than cardboard.
I'm still working on it, but it's not fighting me too much - so I'm feeling good about the prospect of having a "real" air dam:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/AE14FDED-69E6-4EF1-A712-ADB35708994A_zpsbbbaiqhm.jpg)
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I like it Steve. Looking good.
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Steve:
I am interested in how you terminate the sides by the wheel wells. I have the braces on place but have not decided if I leave the air dram straight or scallop it to flow with the wheel opening. I have sharpie'd both designs and looked at them but have not made the final trim cut.
good luck, looks great.
BR
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Getting exciting now dude! Fun stuff on the horizon! Awesome to see the air dam coming along! We had to redo the spoilers/air dams for the 2 757 Camaros last season as there was a change in the interpretation of the rules after the cars had them for years. Now we have set ups for different classes via spoiler just like we do for the wing on the back of the car and rear end (yup we change the rear end completely out, quick change to 12 bolt, to change classes sometimes!) for our GC/GALT.FALT/ PRO changes. Can't wait to see this bad boy in life here shortly!
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This brings up an interesting question. Since i've been told (by SCTA)the Crosley is Not a pickup but a coupe same as a Ranchero or El Camino. So does that mean Ranchero's and El Camino's can run in /DT , since they OK'd the Crosley pickup to run in /DT?
I'll be there with you in spirit bro. :cheers:
Thank you very much, Tauruck.
I just checked the pre-registration for SW 2014, and noticed another H/DT entry. Carbone-Johnston-Wendt, from Florida. A quick Google search for their truck reveals what looks like a VERY serious effort - a chop-top 1947 Crosley pickup...
http://0000pwy.rcomhost.com/
There aren't many vehicles with a smaller frontal area than a Crosley pickup truck, and as the rule changes for 2014, pre-'48 pickup bodies are allowed a 3" "Beauty Chop". File this under "Things that make you go hmmmmmmmmm....."
Steve.
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Me -- who's only guessing . . .
"No, but you can run Diesel in Gas Coupe."
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Getting exciting now dude! Fun stuff on the horizon! Awesome to see the air dam coming along! We had to redo the spoilers/air dams for the 2 757 Camaros last season as there was a change in the interpretation of the rules after the cars had them for years. Now we have set ups for different classes via spoiler just like we do for the wing on the back of the car and rear end (yup we change the rear end completely out, quick change to 12 bolt, to change classes sometimes!) for our GC/GALT.FALT/ PRO changes. Can't wait to see this bad boy in life here shortly!
Hey Mike - what was the difference in interpretation of the rules?
Steve.
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Steve:
I am interested in how you terminate the sides by the wheel wells. I have the braces on place but have not decided if I leave the air dram straight or scallop it to flow with the wheel opening. I have sharpie'd both designs and looked at them but have not made the final trim cut.
good luck, looks great.
BR
I am planning to leave the back of the air dam "square", but I'm always open for alternate ideas or ways to address the situation.
Steve.
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As usual, looks REAL good Steve and should help your effort. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Gregg
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are you allowed to fold the trailing edge of the dam out? In an effort to keep air off the front tires.,
or will this do more harm than good?
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Steve:
I am interested in how you terminate the sides by the wheel wells. I have the braces on place but have not decided if I leave the air dram straight or scallop it to flow with the wheel opening. I have sharpie'd both designs and looked at them but have not made the final trim cut.
good luck, looks great.
BR
I am planning to leave the back of the air dam "square", but I'm always open for alternate ideas or ways to address the situation.
Steve.
FWIW, the lower curved portion of the front of the wheel well was deemed to be outside the rules by Mayor Warner in 2000 (no record!):
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee171/4-BarrelMike/Bonneville%20Merkur/History04.jpg)
Once it was trimmed to go straight down, all was good, including the second trip to impound (a record!).
Mike
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Well that settles it.
BR
But boy did the radius cut around the wheel sure did look good.
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I had a pretty productive weekend, with the final "push" for SpeedWeek well under way.
Last week, I received the re-made window/door net from Stroud. They did a great job, as did Joe Timney, who gave me some extremely valuable advice about fitting of the net.
In order to facilitate mounting of the new net setup, I had to cut some of the old brackets out of the truck. While I was cutting, I cut out the old expanded metal guarding around the leg area, in preparation for an 0.060" aluminum panel in that area.
I have the air dam pretty much sorted out, I just need to drill some holes in brackets that will support the home-made turnbuckles on the back side of the air dam. I have the dam set up at 1-1/2" clearance. There might be a chance to bolt on an extension to the bottom edge of the dam in order to get it a little closer to the surface.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/775B4627-BFB5-46D0-947D-8AAC22898A7A_zpsvyikcumr.jpg)
On Sunday, my neighbor and Crew Chief helped me swap transmissions, putting in a top secret gearbox that I'm calling "MegaTrans X". The combined contents of this transaxle were never offered in any OEM vehicle. As far as I know, it's a one-of-a-kind combination of parts that an Engineer friend of mine put together. The guy literally lives in his shop, which is an old automobile dealership in a less than desirable part of St Louis.
Just thought I'd share an update.
Steve.
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Steve:
Air Dam looks great and fast.
BR
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Looks great Steve! :cheers:
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Dam good. :-D
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Steve
The airdam looks great,we'll see ya in a few weeks here.
Cheers
Tim
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I still have plenty of "checklist" items to take care of before rolling out, but I will definitely be there.
Looking forward to meeting as many of you in person as possible.
Steve.
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Best of luck getting everything worked off the check-list. I look forward to seeing it in person and hopefully meeting you.
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Looks good Steve!
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Another quick update from over the weekend:
I beefed up the air dam with some aluminum angle placed behind the "skin". This is not Manta22 level riveting work, but the end result is an air dam that is VERY solid, and somewhat adjustable for angle.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/90E021C0-4DDC-41D1-A657-5D73D1C01750_zps34fj5rmh.jpg)
Here's the view from under/behind the air dam after riveting the angle in place, and figuring out an adjustable support system. The supports are 3/8 NF allthread with heim joints. This offers a fair amount of adjustment for the angle of the air dam...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DB23850E-2B9E-41F9-8360-D4BFD6824872_zpsfk1ltxvr.jpg)
Steve.
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You did a great job there Steve.
It looks neat. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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That is a good looking job, Steve. Neat, clean, fast :cheers:
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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New and improved sheet metal guarding and door net.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/ECAC9B23-9E4C-4260-A7DD-AD3BD2E61E88_zpsmc5r0s7j.jpg)
I'll be packing the trailer tonight!!!
See you on the salt.
Steve
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See you there! :cheers:
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I have to extend major thanks to Buddy (FlatCad) for loaning me a water injection system to use at Bonneville. I'm hoping that proper use of the water injection will keep my EGT's in check, and keep my mind a little more at ease when peeking down at the EGT gauge.
On the first couple of runs in Ohio, I actually "pegged" the EGT gauge. That was not a good feeling.
Steve.
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good luck
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Thanks for the good wishes.
...loaded up and ready to roll....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/1D158E54-43FF-4DB8-A89C-C623D02C2ED5_zpscfnqcxn4.jpg)
See you all on the salt!
Steve.
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You run a tight ship.
You're already a pro. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
I'm excited for you Steve, have a great time.
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I've been dreaming about this for about 35 years. Crossing the boundary between "dream" and "reality" has meant a lot of TLC (Time and Lotsa Cash). The rest is just nuts, bolts, and various parts.
I've had a lot of excellent help and solid support along the way.
Having a supportive wife and family has made it possible to get this far.
I can't wait to step onto the hallowed ground of the Bonneville Salt Flats.
Steve.
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Steve
If you think you are wonderfully "hooked" now, wait till your first successful pass on the salt. You will become a SALT JUNKY like the rest of us that have been going for any number of years.
After following what you have done and are about to do, it is pretty obvious that racing on the salt is not just a bucket list item.
ENJOY, and savor the results of your efforts.
All my best wishes for a great week.
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Rick:
It's definitely not a "bucket list" item, but more like the high point (so far) of my adult and semi-adult life spent messing around with things that have engines and/or wheels.
Those of us on this forum are all in the same lifestyle. Something like building and racing a land speed vehicle is as much of a labor of love for me as it is to have the finished vehicle. Being able to get out in the garage and work on the machine, while spending a large part of my mind's free energy thinking about the project when I'm not actually working on it, is almost always a pleasure.
Setting foot on the Mecca of Speed in a couple day's time will start the next chapter.
Steve.
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Steve:
It took me 42 years to get there the first time. Now I cannot wait to get back. It is true hallowed ground to a racer.
My advice, make sure to remind your crew which side of the course the return road is on. After making all your rookie runs on course 4 the return road is on a different side on the other courses. One of our friends forgot and got the talk from Mr. Kennedy.
Laslty, you have a nice trailer. Be sure to put a blue tarp down on the floor when you pull you car in and for the ride home. I would roll it up on the edges to make it catch the moisture. The salt will shake out and by the time you get home the truck will be dripping with salty moisture which will eat your trailer up.
BR
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Good call on tarping the inside of the trailer!
Steve
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Turn-Out is the same on 2 as it is on 4. You just gotta remember where you're at.
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Most blue tarps are porous. Use plastic sheeting that is wide enough to go across the floor and partway up the sides--tape in place. Also go all the way to the front so what you track in on your feet won't be an issue or a continual concern. Good to do the tailgate as well. And, as mentioned elsewhere on the site, the floors of the tow vehicle. It's a pain, but not as much as having to clean up after not doing it.
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Most blue tarps are porous. Use plastic sheeting that is wide enough to go across the floor and partway up the sides--tape in place. Also go all the way to the front so what you track in on your feet won't be an issue or a continual concern. Good to do the tailgate as well. And, as mentioned elsewhere on the site, the floors of the tow vehicle. It's a pain, but not as much as having to clean up after not doing it.
IO
You are correct, a roll of painters plastic from the Depot would work great. Our trailer in 2011 had diamond plate floor we had to drill out all the rivets. pull the floor up to neutralize the corrosion in the floor. I sold it but it was never going to be the same. My new trailer I think I will LINEeX the floor and about 24" up the walls. It might be ugly and heavy but should help the trailer last.
Steve:
Check the SCTA facebook page there is an update you should read.
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I have a 10x100 roll of heavy gauge clear plastic and plenty of tape.
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Rain, rain, go away!
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Rain, rain, go away!
The rain's gone - its the darned water that's the problem . . . :|
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The radio broadcast from the USFRA today did not announce any times from course 2 due to equipment issues.
Due to this, I'm posting before Steve to let you folks know how his Rampage did.
He ran a 131.xxx on a 106.xxx record and the truck is in impound.
He got to impound after I left so I did not get any pics of this MAJOR accomplishments.
CONGRATS STEVE and GOOD LUCK tomorrow!
Gregg
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I saw this pic on the USFRA FB page showing impound and was wondering how he did. Hit it hard in the morning!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10302115_606693812773287_7339888346812546404_n.jpg?oh=03343d3ac3252ff4cac8d2bfa6ef1927&oe=549AD02F&__gda__=1419313830_086f370c92a4c0c366782d93423739d1)
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I'm not surprised at all.
I predicted this way back. :-D
Way to go man. AWESOME!!!!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Freakin awesome!!! Crushed it first rattle out of the box!!!
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:cheers: Hurrah!#2 :cheers:
Mike
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Remain silent and carry a B I G stick.
Congratulations.
FREUD
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Wow! 25 mph on the old record. Way to go!
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Steve, good luck on that return run! Here's to you!!!!!!
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Anyone know how he did on the Retur :?n??
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I talked to Steve this morning, and he ran a 129.xxx, for a new record!!!! He was pulling the air dam, and going to see how it ran that way.
:cheers: CONGRATULATIONS, STEVE!!!!!! :cheers:
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Great job Steve.
Congrats on the record.
BR
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Booya boy, way to do it. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Steve, you've done well! Congratulations. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Congrats Steve!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cheers:
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WAY TO GO!!! :cheers:
Mike
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Congrats!! Faster than the H Diesel STREAMLINER record!! Steve's Rampage is the fastest 1500cc diesel at Bonneville regardless of body class.
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YAY!!! :cheers: :cheers:
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: great
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Very awesome!!! Now its time for a hy35 compound and some more fuel? I think that record may need a little walkin room!!!!
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As I just posted in my WoS Picture Post, seeing Steve and Chris get their records was THE VERY BEST part of my being here!
Congrats to Steve, Terry and all associated! This is for you guys :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Gregg
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Google Festus, MO. A peg legged guy with chin whiskers and a cowboy hat appears.
With that as a heritage I will try to fill you in. They cherry picked a class and built a truck.
I had a short glimpse of Steve. He was relaxing in the top of the rental truck box. He was not
comfortable because there was no humidity so he stationed his guards at the very back as he
relaxed. It may have been the first time that they had crossed the State Line but they were prepared.
There was a lot of evidence of a woman's influence but he didn't bring his wife. Left handed, only has
a box with 8 colors of crayons, and was removed from Sunday School class because he brought his pet
turtle and growled erdun, erdun, erdun as he slide him across the table. Doesn't play well with others.
Has not offered to share the trophy with anyone. A mechanical genius from the
beginning. Now a record at Bonneville on his first two passes. There's nothing to this stuff. The Mayor
told the Police Chief to award Steve a Get Out'a Jail Free card but it expires the day after Halloween.
The card for his wife never expires.
Feel sorry for him? No Way.
Respect him.... TO THE MAX.
Welcome to Bonneville.
FREUD
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Mr Steve and Crew,
Your Rampage on the salt nailed a record und Rudolf Diesel would be proud of you guys. Certainly all the rest of us certainly are! :-D
Congratulations! :cheers: :cheers:
Regards,
HB2 :-)
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Congrats Steve.
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Congratulations Steve! Quite the accomplishment sir! :cheers:
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When Milwaukee Midget and Fordboy left my room.........they were so happy for You,
Butt they thought it appropriate that I make my post. They especially liked the "dirty truck"
description. I think they OWE YOU.
Pukelitzer Prize Winner author,
FREUD
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Steve, Slim just posted "certified records set today" in the WOS results thread...
672 Salty Frog Racing Steve Menendez H/DT 135.003
Awesome, absolutely awesome. Congrats again!
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Now he is probably planning on some diesel rig to climb Pikes Peak.
And win it.
He may well do it.
FREUD
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Congratulations Steve on a job well done.
Tom G.
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Steve.....Dude.....
Did I just see another record?
672 Salty Frog Racing Steve Menendez H/DT 135.003
YEP.....So another BIG congrats to you and your team. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Gregg
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Rad man, nice, real nice! :cheers:
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I'm back home safe and sound. :cheers:
What a fantastic experience - it lived up to all of my dreams, and then some.
I was especially overwhelmed by the positive reception given to us by everyone we talked to. That little green truck was pretty popular.
There are a million stories to tell, and I might get around to telling some of them.
One particular story involved firing the Rampage up in the staging lane (maybe 5 or 6 places back to get some heat in the engine), and then seeing a crew from USFRA come running towards the truck in full-on rescue mode, carrying extinguishers and completely under the belief that the Rampage was on fire (based on the large volume of smoke coming out of the exhaust).
Anyway, it was a completely once-in-a-lifetime experience. I feel very fortunate to have set a record on our first run(s), and then bumping our own "new" record by an additional 5 mph.
Everyone I met and spoke to was great, whether it talking to Jesse Winders and his crew (former recordholders in the class), to Danny Thompson at the taco stand trailer on the corner, to the tech school students who made the trip to the salt as a field trip.
Truly Epic! I really appreciate the support and help from everyone who has supported, weighed in, and suggested better ways to skin this cat. I draw a lot of positive energy from all of you.
Thanks again,
Steve.
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You were unique and I am so proud of your accomplishments.
Success like you experienced is indeed rare.
It doesn't need to be 200 MPH to send you home with a glow.
You challenged the record and you won.
C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S
Target550 Team
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Steve, now you know why this land speed racing stuff is addictive. You've just had your next dose. Corngratulations.
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You were unique and I am so proud of your accomplishments.
Success like you experienced is indeed rare.
It doesn't need to be 200 MPH to send you home with a glow.
You challenged the record and you won.
C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S
Target550 Team
Steve, as usual, the Dr. is right.
And while your first passes were mind blowingly fast, given the number of attempts it took for you to even GET TO Bonneville, the lesson learned is this -
There are NO SOFT RECORDS.
You earned it, and a huge congratulations to you and the team. :cheers:
PS - The Rampage build is absolutely stunning - clearly a magazine-worthy racer, and one you should be very proud of.
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Thanks for the support, Chris. Your MG had quite the following as well. It was a pleasure to meet you and FordBoy on the salt.
I know you couldn't hear it at the "big end" of the course, but a cheer definitely went up when you backed up your record run!
I'm glad I was there to see it.
Steve.
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I've already started playing "what if" for the next build.
Suppose a guy could build a 2 liter diesel engine that could make somewhere in the range of 350 HP and put it in a Dodge Rampage??????????
Steve.
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I've already started playing "what if" for the next build.
Suppose a guy could build a 2 liter diesel engine that could make somewhere in the range of 350 HP and put it in a Dodge Rampage??????????
Steve.
Well, I SUPPOSE that a guy - if he were to take the time and apply the ingenuity to their truck that you did - would likely set a new class record.
Now this is all just supposing . . . :cheers:
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http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=315943&highlight=golf+twin+turbo
Here is 450hp 1.9 just for idea purposes.
Congrats again!
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Yep.
Andy2 has some big time power there, for sure!
There are others, but his engine would serve as a great model for anyone interested in building 2 liter-ish diesel power.
Steve.
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Is it standard diesel practice that you need 1 turbo for every 1 liter?
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Is it standard diesel practice that you need 1 turbo for every 1 liter?
Stan, I don't know the answer to your question, but I do know this -
Steve has SET the standard.
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I've already started playing "what if" for the next build.
Suppose a guy could build a 2 liter diesel engine that could make somewhere in the range of 350 HP and put it in a Dodge Rampage??????????
Steve.
Hmmmm, let's see.....
You just did a 1.5L VW turbo with 167 HP and set the record at 135+.
The current G/DT record is 129+.
So, if you build a 2.0L with the same HP as your 1.5L you "should" get that record!
Gregg
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Steve, Here are some pics I took of your truck Sunday in Impound and your 1st record run.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EFkijQ8d4XU/VA0SP6KAPlI/AAAAAAAAB-w/N0wQi7Rv1pc/w800-h600-no/IMG_0012.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YwRvRL2RtIE/VA0SZuM-2bI/AAAAAAAACMA/bn7i9Wlbva8/w800-h600-no/IMG_0039.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eTSdgBDAxq4/VA0SZ1a7xmI/AAAAAAAACN8/w1RGYdMSewo/w800-h600-no/IMG_0040.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SaDLod364qo/VA0Saaax_-I/AAAAAAAACBo/IIwmenh2rOA/w800-h600-no/IMG_0041.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EdF_79XXNpg/VA0Sab_951I/AAAAAAAACN8/Q-KI2eZTtKM/w800-h600-no/IMG_0042.JPG)
Hope you enjoy!
Gregg
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Put the engine in a little liner! :wink: :cheers:
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I'd be happy to put it in a little liner. Got any engine-less little liners laying around?
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Call Jack Costella -- Nebulous Theorem on this Forum.
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I'd be happy to put it in a little liner. Got any engine-less little liners laying around?
Why yes, I do. In fact I lost the engine guy that was with me!. It is a lakester now but is able to go wheels in easily/ :cheers:
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The truck is already built, and built to go much faster... Why not up the power and gear/tire size and crush your old record even more? Like 150~???????
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I think there is some more potential left in the 1.5L diesel / Rampage combination. More fuel, more boost, better flow through the head, more gear/tire..... Keep adding these together until something lets go.
My current daydreaming bounces back and forth between trying to wring more out of the current combination, and building another engine to put in the Rampage for a different class.
I already have a pretty fair collection of parts to build a bigger engine, and have the "hookup" for both diesel and gasoline possibilities.
It doesn't cost anything to dream, but once you start buying parts, the $$$$ add up in a hurry.
Right now, my credit card is busy recovering from this adventure.
Steve
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Congrats on absolutely SMASHING the old record and raising the bar so high!! It was great to see your car run at Bonneville! :cheers:
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Thank you very much, Nate. Sorry we didn't get to talk at WoS. Even with the relatively small number of passes we made, it was amazing how busy we stayed and how quickly the time passed.
Your Squareback was a big hit at the event - a very well done car!
Steve
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... a quick link to GoPro footage of the Salty Frog's 135 mph qualifying run....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ppI9AEdvWA&list=UUtJ8BFry5_gAIhYO8EhDbGg
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No fuss, no muss.
Doesn't get any more businesslike than that.
Thanks for letting us go along for the ride. :cheers:
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Nice ride, very little steering input.
Enjoyed the mini Docu at the end.
Congrats,
BR
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What a nice driving race car! Steve you've done an excellent job. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
I too enjoyed your little appendix showing the expanse of the salt. Well done.
Pete
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Thank you, everyone!
The only time the Rampage felt a little uneasy (just the slightest bit) was during some surging cross-winds, and after I had aired the tires up to "11". I just let it go where it wanted, and didn't try to fight it.
I have a few more videos, I'll have to post later.
Steve.
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just re-read the whole thread (on call at the house). A couple Qs? How far out in inches does that turbo set from the c/l of the engine?
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Trent - the truck is not with me right now. I'm guessing 12-14" from the C/L to the far point of the turbo.
The setup I'm using is not exactly ideal. It's a generic VW turbo manifold that sticks out straight away from the head, and also uses a T3 to T25 adapter.
There are both "top mount" and "bottom mount" turbo exhaust manifolds available for these engines if that's a path that you want to go down. Those manifolds really tuck the turbo in tight against the block or the head, depending on the up/down orientation.
Steve.
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Just to let everyone know that I'm fully hooked, I have begun collecting engines and parts for the "next" build.
If things go as planned, I will have 3 potential pathways (engines) to explore for MOAR POWER!
Hmmm - should it be another VW, or perhaps a Mercedes this time?????
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He he he he he hooked. :cheers:
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Outstanding sir! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: Can't wait to see what's next!
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Hmmm a sideways om606? Ina fwd configuration? Loverly!
Or an om605, the 5 cyl version of the 606, the guys from blacksmoke racing have made a direct injected version, and are making tons of power on the idi.
I still think your tiny 1.5 is capable of adding 50% more power with a larger set of turbos ( or a large one on top of your little one) and a more ideal exhaust manifold. Plus fuel.
If you manage to keep power in the upper rpm range, you will shift torque as well and not murder rods and head gaskets and precups with insane low rpm cylinder pressure.
Perhaps a bosch p7100 p pump, or an a pump? Tweaking them to over 500cc fuel is pretty easy and will fuel everything you need.
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Here's a list of ways I'm thinking about to build an engine for the G/DT class:
VW 1.9 TDI
VW 1.6 IDI
custom VW options - VW 2.0 gasser blocks (9A or ABA) with Ford of Europe diesel pistons, gasser cranks, TDI rods, etc.
De-stroked Mercedes OM601 (like from a 190D 2.2) with a Euro 2.0L crank. I don't think a sideways 606 or 605 will work due to the length.
I already have parts for many of these options.
There is definitely room for improvement with the 1.5 setup (more fuel, more boost, better flow through the head, gearing, tires....)
Anyway, I'll be noodling on this and slowly collecting the needed parts.
Steve.
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Just a quick update - I have recently fallen in love with 2 different transmission options for future trips to the salt.
Steve.
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OK - time for some updates and to get back to work on the truck.
I now have 2 "full partners" on the race team. It's taken a while to work out the details, but we have some excellent sponsors, and solid funding.
The new team name is King, Hake, and Menendez, LLC. (Ken King, Darrell Hake, and Steve Menendez) I like the sound of a 3-name team, kind of like Stone, Woods, and Cook.
We have secured a fantastic amount of technical expertise and willingness to help from 2 Swedish companies, and one in Norway. We are proceeding with an upgrade to the 1.5L engine and trans. We are simultaneously building a new engine to chase the G/DT record. The new engine will be based on a 16Valve, 4 cylinder Mercedes diesel, transferring power through a 6-speed transaxle.
For the 1.5L engine, Goran Lindgren of Dieselmeken AB (Aneby, Sweden) is building us a new, higher output injection pump which will support more power than we hope to make in the short term. We will be aiming for the low 200's in terms of Horsepower for 2015 and beyond. If we get around to beefing up the engine internals, we may aim higher and with compound turbos.
With the 1.5L (H/DT), we plan to run at The Ohio Mile in either May or June of 2015, attempting to bump the H/DT record at Wilmington.
Fred Sundstrom of F-Tune Performance in Ronneby, Sweden is working on our 2 liter engine, which we plan to bring to the salt in 2016. This will be a de-stroked and sleeved Mercedes OM604 engine, capable of making more power than I care to talk about right now. (We are planning to need a parachute with this setup) The power will be transferred though a 6-speed transaxle. The injection pump will once again be provided by Goran Lindgren at Dieselmeken AB.
Petter Lonning (Alcaid) of Stavanger, Norway is supplying the turbochargers and related plumbing for both engines.
We have tapped the true "Cream of the Crop" in terms of high-performance small diesel guys in the form of Fred, Goran, and Petter. I am extremely fortunate to have all of their help.
The 2-liter drivetrain will require quite a bit of fabrication to work in the existing Rampage chassis. Most of that work is planned for the period after The Ohio Mile and before the salt flat season of 2016.
I'm excited to get back to work on this. My credit card has almost recovered from last year, and we have a pretty solid plan laid out for the next 2 seasons.
Steve.
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Good luck.
Bill
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Wow, that's exciting news Steve. Good luck!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Thanks, guys. I have been overwhelmed by the support I've received from Sweden and Norway in particular. Those guys are really into high-performance diesel automobiles.
Here in the USA, most of the high-po diesel stuff is for engines that we would commonly have in 3/4 ton and up pickup trucks. They don't really have that market over there, but they do have a lot of BMW, Mercedes, VW, SEAT, SKODA, Audi, etc. diesel cars that we never have an opportunity to own here in the US.
Combining that support with 2 ready, willing, and able partners (with some disposable income) in the St Louis area, I am feeling very positive about the prospects.
Steve.
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Outstanding Steve!
I am personally excited about any type of engine that is possible of making power numbers that are unheard of. It continues to amaze me the amount of HP/L that is possible with some of these smaller engines, add to that the fact that it'll be running on fuel oil and it's just weird enough for me to be behind it 100%
Looking forward to seeing some of the cool stuff you guys now have coming down the pipe!
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Speaking of which, I just received a package of goodness all the way from Aneby, Sweden.
This box contains an injection pump put together from at least 3 different vehicles, none of which were ever imported to the USA.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/415BB059-4972-4788-8E07-C26AF57C03FA_zpsi1dfhhhb.jpg)
Steve.
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A peek inside the box! :-o
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/3E467B3C-5C63-4256-9A88-313AE474FC73_zpsjx1rmrbu.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/18ABBFFC-7CF2-43FC-9A49-979CE50D2C7E_zpse34ggb5n.jpg)
This is quite likely the only injection pump of its kind within the USA borders. 11mm elements at 2.8mm lift. 170cc's maximum fuel delivery at 6,000 rpms. (My current pump maxxes out at 90cc's).
To go along with the party atmosphere, Goran included a selection of Swedish candies which I will enjoy while working on this project.
Also included are a variety of "Performance by Dieselmeken" decals for the truck.
If any of you guys need injection pump work done, there is no one better on the planet than the Dieselmeken. Check his Youtube channel....
https://www.youtube.com/user/dieselmeken
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Sweet Steve, hope you settle on june for Ohio as we'll be there trying to get Amy and Angela Brenner up to about 185.0 and stomp on some records. :cheers:
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I think that June is the most likely date. May is the Hot Rod meet, and I think we'd be better off avoiding the crowds associated with that event.
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More "teaser" pics. This time, a customized & ceramic coated set of pistons for a de-stroked and sleeved Mercedes OM604. You don't find these laying around any junkyards in the USA (or anywhere, for that matter).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CoatedPistons_zpsdrlrtvej.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/coated%20piston_zpse5zggffr.jpg)
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If that om604 is a cut down version of the om606 and om605(euro 5cyl) it will mke more than plenty of power. 500-600 hp is not uncommon with very minor engine upgrades with a good injection pump. I am excited as heck to see that combo come together!
But for the time being, a beastly 1.5 is exciting to see too!
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Yes, the OM604 is the 4-cyl version of the OM605 and 606 series engines. BIG power from a small package.
Another custom injection pump by Dieselmeken AB, a lot of machine work and upgraded internals by F-Tune Performance, custom header by F-Tune, beefed up 02M 6-speed transaxle, Holset turbo by Petter Lonning, and a lot of other doo-dads will have us ready to chase the G/DT record in 2016.
No sleep for me until the fall of 2016.
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If that om604 is a cut down version of the om606 and om605(euro 5cyl) it will mke more than plenty of power. 500-600 hp is not uncommon with very minor engine upgrades with a good injection pump. I am excited as heck to see that combo come together!
But for the time being, a beastly 1.5 is exciting to see too!
Yes - 100 HP per cylinder is not uncommon for those engines, as you noted. It's not particularly easy, but can be done with the right combination of parts and know-how. The guys who are helping with this project have the experience and know-how to make it happen.
My mind is swirling with the possibilities of a 400HP+ Rampage.
As I mentioned earlier, I think I'm going to be shopping for a drag chute before the summer of 2016.
Steve.
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Very exciting Steve.
All the best. :cheers:
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Those pistons are sexy! :cheers:
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That is very exciting news indeed!!! Glad to see you were able to secure some more help through partners and sponsors. I can't wait to see what the Rampage will do in the coming seasons!!
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More updates.
Here is the sleeved block for the sexy pistons. The sleeves still need to be bored & honed to size.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Sleeves_zpsryqbuehi.jpg)
Steve
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Subscribing
:cheers:
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As far as I know, this is the only OM604 anywhere on the planet that has been de-stroked and sleeved to get it under 2 liters.
Still to come - a lot of custom made goodness.
Steve.
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What size are they from the factory? 2.4?
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Most of them were 2.2's. There were very, very few 2.0's in countries like Hungary, Albania, and Greece, but none of them were turbo equipped.
The "turbo" blocks are more heavy duty, have piston squirters from the factory, and are much more common.
There are also a few 2.3-something versions available in commercial vehicles.
The one I'm having built is being sleeved for the relatively common OM606 pistons and rods, like we would have had stock in a '98 or '99 E300D Mercedes.
The crank is from a previous generation OM601 2-liter, which were pretty common in Europe, but never imported here.
We got a larger version of the OM601, a 2.2 liter, in the early ('84-'86 or so) 190D's.
Steve.
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How about some rarely seen photos of a Mercedes injection pump, with accompanying custom pump camshaft.
This is not a job for a do-it-yourselfer.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/pumpcam2_zpsv9mqs63k.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/pumpcam1_zpssodg9jcv.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Superpump_zpskiq66elh.jpg)
The pump builder - Goran Lindgren at Dieselmeken AB, is one of the very best diesel pump guys anywhere on the planet!
Steve.
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One piece at a time.....
Sachs 4-puck clutch disk to work with the modded BMW M20 flywheel and Sachs 618 pressure plate.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Clutch_zpskbird6t3.jpg)
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One piece at a time.....
Sachs 4-puck clutch disk to work with the modded BMW M20 flywheel and Sachs 618 pressure plate.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Clutch_zpskbird6t3.jpg)
Metallic/semi-metallic linings?
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It's being called a "sinter" clutch in Sweden, so I am making a leap to say that the "pucks" are metallic.
Steve.
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Quick update - the Holset HE200WG turbo for the 1.5L engine is on it's way! :-D
Steve.
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Another Holset convert.
Welcome to the club. :wink:
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Yes - my "Turbo Guy" in Norway, Petter Lonning is a Holset dealer/distributor/modifier.
The package that he is putting together for me for 2 turbos (one stock, one "Hybrid", and a downpipe adapter for the stock HE200WG) is one of those deals that no one in their right mind would pass up.
Looking for 200HP from the 1.5 diesel, and 400+HP from the 2.0.
Steve.
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Holset here as well!
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This is so exciting, I just have to share. Here's a video of the injection pump for our G-glass engine, being run on a test bench.
In this video, the pump is running at the equivalent of 7,000 engine RPM, which is almost unheard of for a diesel.
Goran Lindgren (the Dieselmeken AB) is at the absolute pinnacle of the diesel performance world.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJZBffz9S2w&feature=player_embedded
Steve.
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This is so exciting, I just have to share. Here's a video of the injection pump for our G-glass engine, being run on a test bench.
In this video, the pump is running at the equivalent of 7,000 engine RPM, which is almost unheard of for a diesel.
Goran Lindgren (the Dieselmeken AB) is at the absolute pinnacle of the diesel performance world.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJZBffz9S2w&feature=player_embedded
Steve.
Heck, I'd work with the guy just based on his choice of shop music!!
:cheers:
Fordboy
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That was sweet hearing that thing wind up on that awesome test bench!!! The Rampage is going to fly!!!
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Steve, it's a joy to follow your build site. Keep it up.
FREUD
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Nice one Steve. :cheers:
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I'm pretty excited about this series of upgrades to the Rampage.
For the H-class engine, I'm starting work to take it from "Stage 1", to "Stage 2". That will involve the new injection pump, turbo, and exhaust setup. Eventually, we have a "Stage 3" planned, which will be intended to really push the limits of the engine design.
We should be testing the "Stage 2" H-class engine at The Ohio Mile in June of 2015. We will be looking to familiarize and license an additional driver at that time, and potentially bump the existing record as well.
The G-class engine is also being worked on. The video shown above is related to that engine, which will also be developed in "Stages". For Stage 1, I'm looking for 400HP. Keeping the other team members and partners on-board with the "Stages" philosophy is important. We don't want to shoot for the moon and end up breaking something early in the development.
On a re-test of the injection pump, Goran Lindgren (Dieselmeken AB) ran the re-worked pump at the equivalent of 8,000 engine RPM's for 3 minutes. Unfortunately, that video is only posted on his FaceBook page. If you want to see the video, you'll have to "friend" him on FB.
These pics are not as exciting as the videos, but thought they were worth sharing, anyway...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/blockampcrank_zpsnmfkrmy1.jpg)
This is the 4-cylinder block and crank, shown here with the optional 5-cylinder head gasket. The extra hole works as a cup-holder.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/F%20Tune%20Rods._zpsvox5zwag.jpg)
These are the upgraded connecting rods, which should carry us through as many "Stages" as this engine will see. My friend Fred Sundstrom, at F-Tune Performance is doing the engine machine work and assembly (in Ronneby, Sweden).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/11001532_557430694359432_1839710370880135265_o_zpsvno86lbd.jpg)
One last pic for now - this is the OM604 "Super Stroker" pump being built by Goran Lindgren, in Aneby, Sweden.
Steve.
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Crazy stuff man!
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Another piece of the puzzle is falling into place.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Holset_zpsfqbzrlqb.jpg)
Holset HE351W for the G class engine.
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....and the second turbo delivery of the day is the HE200WG for the H-class engine.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/he200WG_zpskltwbpul.jpg)
Steve.
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Just like to say Hey! to a fellow Missourian!
I have just finished reading your build thread end to end and I found myself smiling as the other guys were giving reports of your runs at Ohio and Bonneville.
I have always had a thing for the salt flats and hope to go myself someday. You are quite an inspiration!
Who knows, maybe see ya there sometime!
Randy
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Thanks, Randy.
If and when you make it to this side of the state, you have an open invitation to stop by and check out the Rampage in person.
Steve.
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Update with respect to the Mopar Performance headlight covers.
I found 2 sets for sale semi-locally, but they are for the 1983 and previous front bumper. The 1984 front bumper (like I have) uses 4 headlights, whereas the '83 and prior uses 2 headlights only. There is also a difference in the hoods between generations. The correct hood has to be used with the matching front bumper.
I am now bouncing the possibility around in my head about switching front bumpers to the '83 and prior style in order to utilize the MP headlight covers.
I know it's relatively common in the Camaro world to change the effective model year of the body by changing bumpers and trim, but need to do some deeper research to determine if there are any other differences.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/HL%20covers%20MP_zpstexjyugi.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/charger%202.2%20%20HL%20covers_zpshziktacb.jpg)
I think that everything else is the same, but need to confirm. Back in the early/mid 80's, I don't think that Chrysler did much (if any) sheet metal updates to the Rampage (or anything else they were producing).
Steve.
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I'm learning more and more about the "ins and outs" of sheet metal differences on the Charger/Turismo/Rampage/Scamp.
As you may or may not know, there are 2-headlight versions of these vehicles. There are also 4-headlight versions which started with the '84 model year (except for the Shelby Chargers, which retained the 2-headlight front end until the end of their production in '87).
Anyway, there was also a slight change at some point to the area at the top of the fender, where it meets the cowl. Gregg Adams tipped me off to this difference, but I never knew the details and hadn't seen it firsthand.
I still haven'e seen it firsthand, but I just learned that at some point in the '83 model year, this change to the fender and cowl fitment was adopted, while Mopar was still using the 2-headlight front end.
The "updated" fender & cowl then continued through the '84 and subsequent years, although I'm not sure if it was used on the Shelby versions.
In any event, I now believe that if I swap a mid-year '83 nose section onto my Rampage, it would be "correct" in terms of factory sheet metal as a Rampage would have been delivered in 1983, in terms of all the front sheet metal and nose cone section.
Steve.
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I have to share my excitement about the following:
One of my sponsors - "Hardy's Hot Rods" has hand-crafted this fantastic likeness of my Rampage, in a Bonneville themed case, based on a Hot Wheels truck.
This thing is completely fantastic!!!
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/A100F6B7-79B9-451A-9D44-E0A12CBE983D_zpsloqf3tp6.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/E3AFC581-A3E5-484F-ADF9-8CF00DDE3036_zps1koodloz.jpg)
Steve
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Steve, that is awesome! What a really special piece. It's only a very few get their projects replicated in a model, especially one so nicely detailed. The person who did it is rather talented as well.
Pete
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One specialty item like that model make the entire project satisfying.
Beside that You overhauled the record.
Might be hard not to quit when You are SO FAR AHEAD.
C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S !!
Now it's a Can You Top This deal.
FREUD
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...back to the full-scale parts....
The custom ground camshafts have been delivered to the engine builder. These might be the only custom ground OM604 camshafts you see all day.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Camshafts_zpsyqzxk1zj.jpg)
Steve
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as well as OM604 pistons & rods.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Pistons%20on%20rods_zpsqf312bw4.jpg)
Lots of custom stuff here. OM606 pistons with valve reliefs milled deeper to match the cam & valvetrain, ceramic coating, and forged H-beam rods.
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All good stuff Steve.
Great to see the updates and wish you only the best.
God Bless. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Just a quick update - new injection pump has been installed. It is capable of delivering almost twice as much fuel as I had with the previous pump. It's turned "down" for now, but can be easily adjusted for more fuel.
Here's a short video....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0QcsrObF9o
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Another update, this time for the G-class engine.
Mercedes OM604 (16Valve) cylinder head with custom cams, springs, and all the stuff needed to make them work....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Assembled%20head._zpse9cc4ysj.jpg)
Steve
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Nice video Steve! I can't wait to hoon my car around the neighborhood! :cheers:
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...and mine is "letter of the law" street legal.. :-o
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Mine is... not so much. :evil: :-D
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OK - getting into "Crunch Time" mode for The Ohio mile on the weekend of June 6th and 7th.
Firstly - I needed to go through the brakes, as last year's visit to Bonneville did not do the brake system any favors. :-D
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/9A830B34-6215-42A2-B196-90342D08B952_zpswmbzlh9f.jpg)
Secondly - it's time for the new turbo (Holset HE200WG to be installed)....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C05547E5-18BF-46F9-9D95-F1077F24048D_zpsai04jzvh.jpg)
And thirdly, I am fabbing a new exhaust system to go along with the new turbo. 3" diameter all the way back... (cup of coffee and a Pop Tart to show the scale of the exhaust plumbing).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C9D67E7A-CE92-42EE-B8BA-E529C5815089_zps1pqiulgb.jpg)
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Still to come before Ohio - a new, higher volume electric fuel pump to feed the larger injection pump, and updating the sponsorship logos & decals.
Steve.
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Into a "mild scramble" mode to get ready for The Ohio Mile. New turbo, 3" exhaust, bigger injection pump fed by a bigger electric "pusher" pump, as well as a few minor tweaks to make the whole package of race truck and trailer work better are under way.
Here are a few pics to show some work....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/7E5F1BD5-6FE4-4030-98C9-4AECFC906A26_zpsfootfgw6.jpg)
3" exhaust. It's complete now, but I didn't take many pics. While 3" may seem like overkill for a 1.5L turbodiesel, the "next" engine, and possibly the "next" one after that will be able to take advantage of the free breathing.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B3665971-6C4A-439B-93DB-DF6D5EA6EDE6_zpshpm1ctum.jpg)
This is the new HE200WG turbo, after porting the exhaust housing (basically gasket matching), re-clocking the oil drain and compressor housing, and adding a bracket to re-locate the wastegate actuator. This turbo should be an excellent match for the higher capacity injection pump, and will support more power in the future.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/9E1A62EA-7B67-45E5-BF73-EDE91CC8C7BA_zps6ftiizx1.jpg)
one last pic, just because garage selfies are fun, and to let any of you recognize me if you are in attendance at The Ohio Mile in June.
Steve.
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Just a quick update after the Ohio Mile (weekend of June 6-7).
We managed to bump our own record in H/DT from 123.xx mph to 135.6 mph, running on "low" boost.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2Hn--X847Q
Then, one of my team members made his rookie pass, running 128.xx mph, while shooting for 125 +/- 5 mph....
Camera view out the back of the cabin - lots of smoke, and signs that the clutch was slipping....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAXMhwud9us
One last pass, with the boost turned up (40 psi max). On this run, the boost elbow blew off the turbocharger in 4th gear.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaU-98yAMeo
I'm happy to report that we brought home 2 records - bumping our own H/DT, then putting Darrell Hake in the book by changing classes to E/DT (an open record at Ohio).
There is more potential in this setup, but we are going to need a new clutch, and a new outlet adapter for the cold side of the turbo.
We are planning to go back to Ohio in September, with the goal of bumping both records again.
Steve.
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Good going Steve, with any luck we'll see you in September, with our tee shirts on...
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Thanks, Cap'n. It was a pleasure to meet you - sorry we didn't have more time to visit and chat.
After giving it some more thought after last weekend, I am now committed to changing not only the clutch setup in my truck, but the transmission as well. By the time I spent enough money on a serious clutch for my small-shaft 4-speed, I would have been a long way down the road to a heavier-duty 6-speed conversion.
I'm going on the record now as saying that we will be running a 6-speed trans and heavier clutch the next time we travel down the Ohio Mile. It will be a bit of a scramble to pull it off this summer, but where there's a will, there's a way.
I'll be seeing you in September, and will have 2 extra gears, and a fully functional clutch by then.
Steve.
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Had a bit of a setback over the weekend.
My car trailer was stolen from a locked parking lot behind our manufacturing plant.
Steve
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whata bummer hope to hellover it was EMPTY
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Yeah - it's an open trailer, but a friend and I had recently stripped it down, painted the whole trailer, new boards, new wiring, LED lights, etc.
Brand new white "spoker" wheels and brand new E rated tires.
I'm not holding out a whole lot of hope to get it back, but there's always a chance.
Steve.
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Sorry to hear the news Steve.
St. Anthony is the patron Saint of lost property so just ask him.
You'll get your trailer back. :cheers:
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Scum bags like that need to be drug out in the street and beaten in front of their children.
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Steve:
I am sorry to hear that. I have had my axles and wheels stolen.
Bill
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Steve,
Sorry to hear it. Hope the Police can get it returned.
:cheers:
F/B
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Police are talking to the owners of the lawn service company who takes care of our industrial property.
Not too many people would even know the trailer was back there ( a back lot behind an industrial building, behind an 8' tall locked fence).
Good news is that there was a fresh cigarette butt laying right where the passenger's side door of a pickup would be when hooking up to the trailer. We just had the lot re-sealed, so a fresh butt stuck out like a sore thumb. Police submitted the butt for DNA testing, believe it or not.
If the smoker/theif has a criminal history (he most likely would), we might just get lucky with a match. Should take a couple of months for the DNA testing, however.
I'll remain hopeful, but will start looking for a new trailer in the mean time.
Steve.
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That sucks. We have had several things stolen from our plant.................they even too the small gas grill we keep behindthe office!
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Steve,
In my experience, crimes like this are "crimes of opportunity" or "crimes of information" or both. The police know this and will concentrate their efforts on who knew the trailer was there.
I realize this doesn't help you out. All you can do is to be more vigilant about your stuff in the future. And I also realize that even if you take measures to undermine theft, a determined thief can take your stuff in spite of any precautions you might take. Just makes you love humanity, doesn't it?
Fordboy
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In the future, I will take some additional measures to slow any potential thieves down, and will have a dedicated insurance policy for the trailer, as well.
For now, I am planning to attend The Texas Mile in October. I picked up a top secret transmission on Wednesday evening, along with the shifter, cables, flywheel, etc. needed to make it work.
Actually, the transmission itself isn't all that secret, but the gearing inside has been selected to match my 1.5L engine as well as I could possibly configure.
My hope is to run on the high side of 140 mph through the traps at The Texas Mile. Bonneville will have to wait until 2016.
Steve.
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I don't know which direction you are heading through Texas, but you will potentially be heading through my neck of the woods. Sou de like an opportunity for some beers and socialization. (Plus I really wanna see that car and wont be able to make the tx mile this year)
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Hey Steve,
I recently received my 2015 Rulebook, but also the 2014 World Of Speed Video,
Your Rampage is on the quite a few time launching off the start line, very cool..
I saw it and thought.. hey, I've seen that one before!
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Crackerman - I'll be traveling from the St Louis, MO metro area - I haven't decided which route to take to Beeville, yet, so I'm open for suggestions. I prefer to stick to the interstates as much as possible, just to keep things rolling smoothly.
Bow - I don't think I've seen the 2014 WoS video. I must have missed out on the availability of that video. I'll go check the USFRA website to see if there is something available. Thanks for the tip.
Right now - I'm on the search for a replacement trailer so I'll be able to tow the Rampage down south.
Steve.
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Well, if you are coming down i35, then you will pass me.
Once in Texas, I do recommend stopping at smitty's BBQ in Lockhart just south of Austin (if you are taking i35) and if you are coming down early enough, you can take a little jog out of the way and make it through shiner Texas and the spoetzel brewery.
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I also shoulda said, I live real close to Denton tx, just North of dfw metroplex(Dallas fort worth)
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The Dallas route is probably the one I'll take.
I'll give you a shout out when it's a little closer to the appointed time.
Steve.
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By the time I got around to registering, the Texas Mile registration was closed. For now, I'm setting my sights on 2016. My 1.5L engine will be on "Phase 2" of a 3-phase plan in 2016. A new transmission, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, etc. are going in over the winter to support a bit more power.
I have given up on my old trailer (which was stolen over the 4th of July weekend) being found. I have purchased a new trailer, which I'll be picking up next week.
I did make another significant purchase recently......
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/2015%20Ram%202500/Green%20truck%201_zps4hmhgeov.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/2015%20Ram%202500/48CAD2BA-CE1F-4327-A888-49E2569ED8FA_zpsmfobx1a9.jpg)
The current H/DT record at Bonneville is 135.003 mph, set in September of 2014. We went faster than that at The Ohio Mile in 2015, before the clutch went away and we blew a boost connector apart. For the purpose of making a statement and then holding myself to it, I'm going on record as saying that we intend to run over 145 mph at Bonneville in 2016 with the 1.5L engine.
If time permits, I will also be using a 2-liter engine in 2016, which will be in "Phase 1" of its advancement. With that engine, I hope to be flirting with "Parachute" speeds at Bonneville.
Right now, I'm trying to regain my Mojo, and get the project plan back on track for 2016.
Steve.
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Nice truck Steve. Wish you many miles of safe travel.
All you need is a Kawa dirt bike to match. :wink:
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Thanks. I'm not much of a dirt bike guy. I like 2 wheelers, but mainly the kind with pedals. However, I have had a case of "Porsche 914 Fever" lately. Luckily, I don't have any money, or else I might be on the lookout for something like this.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/green%20914_zps9obl7amx.jpg)
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I also like the Lime Green color.
In fact I would have painted the liner that color
but you beat me to it. It stands out big time.
Sorry you never found your trailer but those thieves will be buying medicine soon!!!!!.
GO STEVE, GO GREEN!!!!!. :cheers:
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...and so it goes - one piece at a time, but these cost a lot of dimes......
New steel flywheel, and major upgrades to the clutch and pressure plate.
These parts are needed to support more power, and a new transmission in the Rampage.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/75C13D07-6CA7-4088-B812-6B206692F77D_zpsketchyx8.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/183F8E10-ED59-43B2-8F3F-47B38A8EC18A_zpsiuubwcfp.jpg)
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Oh yeah, we bought a new trailer, too....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/0358A35F-9277-4302-945D-91A327E0B339_zpslonqqoeb.jpg)
It still needs some finishing touches to be set up the way I like it, but it's a very solid start.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/0358A35F-9277-4302-945D-91A327E0B339_zpslonqqoeb.jpg)
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Oh yeah, we bought a new trailer, too....
It still needs some finishing touches to be set up the way I like it, but it's a very solid start.
Hmmm, first of all, it's the wrong color. :mrgreen:
Mike
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I'm planning to do some amateur pinstriping. Freehand pinstriping is something I've always wanted to do.
Guess what color I'm going to use?
Steve
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Practice with black.
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Nothing wrong with a flatbed, Steve. They pull easier and won't eat you out of house and gasoline.
And given your solution of renting a U-Haul while in Wendover, provided your spares will fit in the bed, you'll save the Dodge and have a nice, sheltered work space while on the salt.
A trick to save space - UPS your clothes to the hotel and simply duffle a change on the road. Clothes are fairly light, but take up a lot of space. The UPS shipping can literally buy you room for a spare motor.
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8-)
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Practice with black.
That's good thinking!
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A trick to save space - UPS your clothes to the hotel and simply duffle a change on the road. Clothes are fairly light, but take up a lot of space. The UPS shipping can literally buy you room for a spare motor.
That's good thinking too. As far as having an open trailer, I actually prefer it. When I came to Wendover in 2014, I was using a borrowed enclosed trailer (which I had to do a lot of work on). Since my lifestyle often involves hauling around cars in various states of disrepair, the open trailer is greatly preferred to the enclosed trailer.
Plus, I feel like the open trailer is "Old School Bonneville Cool". I am thinking about making a rack to haul some conduit and connectors to make one of those temporary shelter deals (like a super heavy duty E-Z up).
In any event, I'm setting my sights on the summer of 2016, hoping it's going to be one of the best on record.
Steve.
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Steve-
Nice trailer! We have a 21' Kaufmann (3' of which is dovetailed) for the Camaro. I mounted a Tractor Supply truck box on the front and put the winch and its battery inside (with the ferrule mounted outside to keep things clean.) If you have room, it's a nice way to have tool and parts storage without giving up more than 18". You can feed power from the 9-pin to keep the battery charged or add lights (something I plan to do soon). As for the "shelter", my ChumpCar buddy mounted an EZ-UP to his open trailer by simply drilling holes where the base feet allow (probably for stakes?) and welding nuts underneath. Makes for a quick and cheap method for shade. Good luck!
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Steve-
Nice trailer! We have a 21' Kaufmann (3' of which is dovetailed) for the Camaro. I mounted a Tractor Supply truck box on the front and put the winch and its battery inside (with the ferrule mounted outside to keep things clean.) If you have room, it's a nice way to have tool and parts storage without giving up more than 18". You can feed power from the 9-pin to keep the battery charged or add lights (something I plan to do soon). As for the "shelter", my ChumpCar buddy mounted an EZ-UP to his open trailer by simply drilling holes where the base feet allow (probably for stakes?) and welding nuts underneath. Makes for a quick and cheap method for shade. Good luck!
There are definitely some good ideas here. My old trailer (the one that was stolen) had one of the plastic toolboxes mounted on the front, and also a battery box, which as you said, was charged by the 7-pin harness. Pre-drilling for an EZ-up is a solid idea, too!
Thanks.
Steve.
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If you want my two cents' worth -- by all means get an electric landing gear for your trailer. They're around $150, yeah, but it's so nice to just move the toggle switch this way or that to raise/lower.
I've got on on the racer trailer, and that trailer has a big 12V battery hard-wired to the lights and stereo and so on - and is charged through the +12V on the 7-pin connector. Simple enough, and since there's that battery I can lower/raise the trailer whether hooked to the pickup or not.
I've cranked enough trailers over a good lifetime -- that dang it, it was time to treat myself to a bit of luxury. Put one on your trailer -- and you'll be bragging to others and suggesting that they do the same. :cheers: :cheers:
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Cranking trailers is for cranks. :-D
If $150 solves the problem you gotta have one.
I could make millions here in SA with a system like that, :wink:
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I put one on my trailer. it lasted about a year which is about four or five trips max. I am back to hand cranking which makes me cranky!! :-o
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Fred, you just ruined my dream!.
:-D :cheers: :cheers: Cranky.
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One of my problems is that under certain conditions the tounge jack drags. It may be that that screwed mine up. it had been on long enough for me to lose the instructions and spare pin. It was just easier to put the manuel jack back on to "farkle" with the electric one. Farkle is one of Slims favorite words. Mine is spelled a little different! :dhorse:
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For now, I'm trying to keep it simple. My buddy has a 24' enclosed trailer (Pace GT) with electric tongue jack, big battery on the front, both 12V and 110V lights inside, etc. He did not buy it new, and it had been "modified" several times along the way. It had a cheap battery charger installed in the trailer, with speaker wire running out to the battery (to keep it charged). Ridiculous.
The wiring on his trailer was completely screwed up the first time I towed it for him (to the point of blowing fuses in MY TRUCK) when I hooked up to it. He kept a box of 30A fuses in the top drawer of his toolbox to feed the trailer wiring a new fuse just about every time he used it.
In 2013, I spent a lot of time re-wiring and trying to correct all of the problems with his trailer. I got it to the point where it would no longer blow fuses on my truck when I hooked up to his trailer, but I still don't trust that trailer. The electric jack mostly works, but you still have to keep an eye on the "main fuse" on the 12V side of his trailer, or the battery will not charge. I don't think I'll ever be able to trust that trailer, but I do still tow it for him, and it's what I took to Bonneville in 2014, after doing a lot of re-wiring, putting all new tires & wheels on it, re-doing the brakes & bearings, etc.
Right now, I'm happy to use the manual jack on my open trailer, and to know that the wiring harness is completely intact. I need to add a toolbox to the front, modify the ramp pockets for longer ramps, and add some tie-down points. I'm also planning to buy/build one of those EMT conduit type canopies, and a handy way to carry it on the trailer.
This winter will be spent working on the new transmission, turbo, & injection pump setup. We are planning to run at Ohio and Bonneville in 2016!
Steve.
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A fix for a high effort trailer tongue jack is to replace the worm drive with an Ebay ball screw . A little engineering involved . A fraction of the work to lift the trailer .
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A fix for a high effort trailer tongue jack is to replace the worm drive with an Ebay ball screw . A little engineering involved . A fraction of the work to lift the trailer .
That sounds like a great idea. Do you have any pics of such a conversion?
Steve.
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Sorry no digital camera . Mine are on my tow dolly that raises to work on the streamliner and raises a little more to roll it in the level trailer . The ball nut pushed down against the inner telescoping tube and the ball screw pushes up against a McMaster ball thrust bearing and conical washers in the top the fixed tube . Mine raises about a 1/4" per turn with moderate force as it lifts 1200# . As I said a failsafe anti wind down latch is important . It should have a stop so the screw can't screw out of the nut and have all the balls fall out .
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Yes, all the balls falling out is a bad thing. One of the "rites of passage" for service technicians in our manufacturing plant is to run a nut off the end of a ball-screw shaft. I think that every service tech we've ever hired has performed that task at least once. Most of them have ONLY done it once.
Steve.
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Sorry no digital camera . Mine are on my tow dolly that raises to work on the streamliner and raises a little more to roll it in the level trailer . The ball nut pushed down against the inner telescoping tube and the ball screw pushes up against a McMaster ball thrust bearing and conical washers in the top the fixed tube . Mine raises about a 1/4" per turn with moderate force as it lifts 1200# . As I said a failsafe anti wind down latch is important . It should have a stop so the screw can't screw out of the nut and have all the balls fall out .
I'm still having a hard time visualizing. Are you putting the eBay ballscrew inside the telescopic housing normally used in a tongue jack?
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The ball nut mounts near the top of the lower tube . The shoulder of the ball screw sticks out through the plate on top of outer tube with a ball thrust bearing between the shoulder and the plate . It's hard to be more specific without knowing the tube and ball nut sizes . Ball nuts need to be aligned with the screw so I used what McMaster lists as alignment washers . McMaster and Ebay has everything .
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The ball nut mounts near the top of the lower tube . The shoulder of the ball screw sticks out through the plate on top of outer tube with a ball thrust bearing between the shoulder and the plate . It's hard to be more specific without knowing the tube and ball nut sizes . Ball nuts need to be aligned with the screw so I used what McMaster lists as alignment washers . McMaster and Ebay has everything .
OK - thanks again. Sorry if it seems like I'm asking too many questions, but I'm very curious about this setup. Without a photo, drawing or sketch, words will have to suffice. The length of ball screw used, diameter, thrust capacity, etc would all be very helpful. There are plenty of cheap ball screw assemblies on Ebay, but I would prefer to only buy once, in the size range that has been proven to work.
Did you weld the ball nut into the lower (inner) tube? Mount a handle on the top of the shaft, just like a "regular" trailer jack?
Steve.
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I still vote for push-button/toggle switch.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_trailers-towing+trailer-jacks+electric-jacks
Also:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3500-lb-capacity-drop-leg-heavy-duty-electric-trailer-jack-69899.html
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Boy, Slim, you're still getting old if you don't enjoy getting up by hand anymore.
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Changing subjects slightly.... :-D
I'm moving forward on multiple fronts. Later this week, I'll take delivery of the final bits needed to install the new 5-speed trans, flywheel, pressure plate, etc. for the 1.5L engine. Call me crazy if you'd like, but I think this combination has the potential to see 150 mph in the Rampage with some additional development. I'm currently moving into "Phase 2" of a 3 phase plan to go faster with the 1.5L engine installed.
Moving up in displacement, Phase 1 of the 2-liter effort is coming together, albeit slowly. One of the major hurdles has been overcome, however.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Saab%20Trans._zpsglry0mmf.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/12211190_10205029317120877_533189275_o_zps92dceuf1.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/12207574_10205029369602189_293105306_o_zpscddxwizc.jpg)
You are looking at what's likely to be the only Mercedes OM604 block mated to a SAAB F-40 6 speed transmission that you are likely to see all day. As far as I can tell, it may be the only such combination on the planet.
Thanks to my friend Fred Sundstrom at F-Tune performance in Sweden, we will have an engine and transmission combo worthy of chasing a record in the G/DT class. Combined with a "SuperStroker" diesel pump from Goran Lindgren at Dieselmeken AB, also in Sweden, and a hybrid turbo from Petter Lonning (Alcaid) in Norway, we should be making a solid 400+HP from the engine. With a little good fortune, we will put this combination over 175 mph (needing new race tires and a parachute along the way).
This is exciting stuff. I'm fighting hard to keep my mind focused on "Sticking to the plan" for both classes.
Have a good day.
Steve.
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:cheers:
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Keep at it Steve. :wink: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Thanks for the support, guys. I just need to stick to my plan and try to keep my focus on executing the plan as properly as possible.
I'm hoping to run at Ohio, Bonneville, and possibly in Colorado in 2016.
Steve.
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I see no major obstacles.
Maybe you haven't noticed but you're a pretty determined dude!!!!.
All the success Steve. Way to go man. :cheers:
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You are looking at what's likely to be the only Mercedes OM604 block mated to a SAAB F-40 6 speed transmission that you are likely to see all day. As far as I can tell, it may be the only such combination on the planet.
What, JC Whitney doesn't make an adapter? :wink:
Welcome to the world of intermingling of species. :cheers:
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What, JC Whitney doesn't make an adapter? :wink:
Welcome to the world of intermingling of species. :cheers:
Intermingling for sure. Here's where the "magic" transformation is made...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Clutch%20and%20welded%20trans._zpsdubzqfkh.jpg)
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One more piece of the puzzle arrived today. I realize it may be difficult for those of you who are reading this, as there are essentially two "Parallel Projects" going on here. Sometimes I have trouble keeping track of the various bits and pieces myself.
I now have what is considered to be the "best" OEM shifter, cable, and shift tower setup for modified VW 02A transmission which will be used with the 1.5L engine (H/DT class). This shifter is from a later model 02J transmission. It can only be used on an 02A with the correct Shift Tower, which is the part on the right side of the photo. The photo was taken on the somewhat dirty floor of my office.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/60D80170-C9EF-4C10-BE04-B039C3F67246_zpszvbp9pxd.jpg)
Steve.
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"Shifting Gears", so to speak - the 2 liter engine is coming together.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Assembledblock_zpswlxgnrni.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/Assembledblock_zpswlxgnrni.jpg)
Good news - the engine rotates without coming to any hard "stops" (i.e. valves and pistons hitting one another). That's a good start.
Steve.
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I'd definitely vote for the shifter that's on the second set of photos. That first one has such a stubby little knob, you know. . :roll:
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I spent a little over an hour and didn't find that -- thanx for pointing it out.
Stan
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Thanks for the support, guys. I just need to stick to my plan and try to keep my focus on executing the plan as properly as possible.
I'm hoping to run at Ohio, Bonneville, and possibly in Colorado in 2016.
Steve.
If you make it out this way Steve, be sure to let me know. I heard the event here in CO turned out pretty well, and there was some fairly fast passes made. I didn't make it to that meet, but if I know someone that is running, I'll darn sure be there. May even be able to help a fella out with his little green truck...
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King, Hake, and Menendez, LLC. are planning a "Team Meeting" for the week before the PRI show. The intent of our meeting is to lay out our strategic goals for 2016, and start developing the Action Plans for the year's activities.
In addition to the green Rampage, one of the other team members has a Spec Racer Ford sports car. We need to lay out our 2016 schedule based on the LSR and SCCA events that we want to run.
I'll post updates right here.
Steve.
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Steve:
Mt SINCERE apologies for not getting up with you at PRI. It was my 1st time there and I was having issues with sensory overload and completely forgot. It did not dawn on me until Friday night that I had missed you. Sorry!!!
Gregg
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More progress on the 2 Liter engine.... This thing is going to be a MONSTER!
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/F%20engine_zpsejybzcy3.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/F%20Plate_zpsd03svfmx.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/MB%202%20Liter/BIG%20Turbo_zpssqslswmt.jpg)
(Swedish Hipster not included with purchase).
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Way to go Steve. :cheers:
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I've been messing around with shooting some video footage. I'd like to get good at it, so I can produce a YouTube video series about the development of my project.
This is one of the first video attempts, as myself and 2 friends/helpers attempt to talk through a transmission mounting bracket, and discuss various video shooting options....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htxbx0Fiw2w
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Video Update - the hybrid 02A / 02J Volkswagen transmission has been installed. In this brief video, Darrell Hake demonstrates the operation of the 02J shifter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSWhvXCmlHs
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3-Minute Tech video showing how we are using 80/20 extruded aluminum and some chassis tabs to secure the shifter into the cabin of the truck.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xlHqFPJ8ec
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Good idea, Steve.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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I like the videos Steve. Great idea. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
The other great idea is your use of the 80/20 system. I googled 80/20 Inc. and I think I've discovered another very useful tool. :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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Thanks, Guys. I'm trying to get more "into" shooting short videos to document progress on the Rampage. I have A LOT to learn, even about how to organize the various elements of my YouTube channel. Please stay tuned for more installments.
Peter - the 80/20 stuff is super-cool, easy to work with, and maybe best of all, QUICK to assemble into usable parts, fixtures, etc. We use it a lot at work to prototype engineering projects. It really is the "Industrial Erector Set".
Steve.
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I created a new YouTube channel for the King, Hake, and Menendez Salty Frog truck.
Please subscribe on YouTube if you are interested:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCExgMh5UZ8YmDIKVzKqwfZw
Thanks,
Steve.
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Just a quick test to see if I have figured out the "Embed Code" for videos.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/guO6Szm2gcA?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Steve.
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Way to go Steve.
Thanks for uploading.
It's cool to put a face to the name. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Thank you very much. I've been trying to shoot more video, trying to get better at editing, etc., with an eye towards doing more of a video blog for the "Build Diary". If you like it, please subscribe to my YouTube channel.
I got the engine started for the first time since last fall. It has a new transmission, shifter, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, trans mounts, etc.
There are now 4 VW starters in my garage. Only one is the "right" type starter for this application. The mix & match of parts on this truck are sometimes difficult to keep track of.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-a8NI5Mgg0&feature=player_detailpage (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-a8NI5Mgg0&feature=player_detailpage)
Latest video -
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The latest update:
My friend Darrell and I spent an evening cleaning up the interior of the Rampage, then taking a good look at what it's going to take in order to link the VW 02A-based transmission to the Plymouth Acclaim drive hubs. Anyone who has ever worked on a CV joint knows how filthy and nasty they are inside.
Here's the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRvp1L9NWhw
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Nice progress, Steve.
If you do weld those two axles together, I'd suggest cutting the sleeve ends at a diagonal or use a "fish mouth" cut. This distributes the torsional stress over a larger area. A circular weld concentrates the stress at the weld.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Good thinking on the fish mouth cuts. :cheers:
It just so happens that I have the tooling to make cuts like that.
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Trying to stay busy, we removed the seat, belts, window net, steering column, and some other tidbits, in preparation for rust remediation....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1c63ss9Vyn0
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One more video for now - Rattle Can Restoration of the firewall and inner fender.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6AYLiSeZh4
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Steve,
Once you have determined the shaft length then make the sleeve that you are going to connect the two shafts with ,003-.005 smaller than the shaft's OD and heat the sleeve and freeze the shafts and then and shrink on the two shafts together then TIG the diagonal joint. This does several things, it insures exact alignment of the two mating shafts (at least as close as your lathe can turn the shafts and sleeve) plus the shrink fit will greatly increase the torque capacity of the fabricated shaft. You won't depend completely on the TIG weld for carrying the torque load.
Rex
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Rex..............You are a jewel.
Your knowledge is so relative and the guidance is
beyond description.
Target 550 trusts your judgement.
FREUD
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Rex and Freud - excellent advice all around. I may make 2 sleeves - one for mockup to determine the exact "best" overall length. This sleeve would be slightly oversized to allow a telescopic-type adjustment.
The second, and permananent sleeve, would be a shrink-fit as described above.
I am very fortunate to work in a facility with qualified machinists and some heat treatment capabilities. This will be work for our CNC guy. I can do rough cuts on our manual lathe, but the ability of that lathe to hold tolerance, and my ability to operate it effectively, are far from ideal.
What do you guys think about pinning the sleeve to the shafts in addition to the shrink and weld? In my own mind, I have gone back and forth on that topic.
Steve.
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What do you guys think about pinning the sleeve to the shafts in addition to the shrink and weld? In my own mind, I have gone back and forth on that topic.
Steve.
No likey. GIANT stress risers, potential failure point. Those axles are just "torsion bars" and the welded section will not "twist" at the same rate as the rest of the shaft, raising the stress on the remainder of the shaft, concentrating the stresses on the welds. We used to weld things to anti-roll bars to stiffen them, and it was a "wild ride" when they broke . . . . . . . always at the weld . . . . .
Steve, what are the consequences if this welded shaft fails in service? Is there the potential for catastrophic damage? To the car? The driver?
Wouldn't a purpose made axle be a better choice?
Maybe I'm way off here, as I don't follow your build that closely. BUT, I am a safety first guy. I've lost too many friends to "stupid sh*t.
Just my 2ยข
:cheers:
Fordboy
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Steve -
WOW - thanks for pushing on getting this site to do video links more readily.
This thread is now the Cannes Film Festival of LSR.
I'm liking it.
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I'm not a machinist but I stayed at a Holiday Inn once. I don't think it would be that expensive to make a new axle out of the right material, the right length, with the right ends, especially since you have access to machining and heat treat. Do what you're thinking to get the proper length, then make new = much safer.
YMMV
Ron
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Those are all good ideas.
My first chore is to get a mock-up made to verify the correct working length of the shaft for this application.
After that, I'll have some decisions to make. In the meantime, I'll research custom FWD axles.
Our shop "may" be able to do it, but we don't have a good way to spline shafts.
Steve.
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Steve -
WOW - thanks for pushing on getting this site to do video links more readily.
This thread is now the Cannes Film Festival of LSR.
I'm liking it.
New ideas and great input from most of the members is what makes LR.com so impressive :cheers:
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My thoughts exactly, SL 1000.
I can't imagine how much more difficult building these vehicles must have been before the internet and forums like this one.
Steve.
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Raxles.com
Pricey, but full custom is available. Get your proper length axle mocked up and sent to em, it will come back with good shafts. If you send em the ends, they can duplicate repeatedly.
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My thoughts exactly, SL 1000.
I can't imagine how much more difficult building these vehicles must have been before the internet and forums like this one.
Steve.
You got that right!!!. A guy here in SA imported a show winning custom bike from the US in 93 through an ad in a bike magazine.
When it arrived it wouldn't run. Empty engine casing. :-D. The faxes flew like mad.
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[/quote]
You got that right!!!. A guy here in SA imported a show winning custom bike from the US in 93 through an ad in a bike magazine.
When it arrived it wouldn't run. Empty engine casing. :-D. The faxes flew like mad.
[/quote]
OUCH! That's definintely a "Show Only" type of bike.
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How 'bout if we define that bike as a great example of a "trailer queen"? :cheers: :cheers:
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Steve-
I would talk to Mike Reichen (the crazy Evo 2 guy) re: axles. Those DSM guys put 1000hp
through their AWD setups, so custom axles/diffs are a must. He should be able to guide you
toward a good long-term setup. Not too far from you in Chicago.
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He used either stock axles or raxles. With a driveshaft shop driveshaft. (helped him pull a shattered trans at texas mile)
Mitsu guys use stock shafts a lot of times, as the awd stuff is very Stout. Mostly they have to worry about wheel hop snapping shafts.
On salt, does it hop?
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You got that right!!!. A guy here in SA imported a show winning custom bike from the US in 93 through an ad in a bike magazine.
When it arrived it wouldn't run. Empty engine casing. :-D. The faxes flew like mad.
[/quote]
OUCH! That's definintely a "Show Only" type of bike.
[/quote]
Now you know why they say, "If it don't run - chrome it!" :-D :-o
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Who would like to see a brief video about modifying a Dodge Rampage crossmember, and some safety talk?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H72GCKNOTeM
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Steve, haven't been on in a while and just saw this.
I never drove on the short course return road at WoS in 2014 but the long course return road had many, many potholes filled with water.
Naturally, if there are any pin holes in the k-frame salt water can get in and start rusting from the inside out.
You might want to consider using something like this to seal the inside of the k-frame:
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html
I just got 6 cans that I'm going to use in my frame rails and any other channel that can trap salt that I cannot get to with my brush on master coat primer.
YES,,,,,I'm REALLY back to work on mine!
See you guys in Wilmington,
Gregg
PS
REALLY like the videos.
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Greg:
That Eastwood stuff looks very promising. I recently got my K-frame and other goodies back from powder coating. I welded as many holes as I could in the K-frame, but a couple of them need to remain open by design.
Here's my latest YouTube video, taking a tour of suspension updates, the clutch master/slave plumbing arrangement, steering system modifications, and the condition of the truck's interior:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvta-vnNu8M
Like you, I'm really looking forward to Wilmington.
Steve.
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A couple of weeks ago, some friends came over to my garage one evening. Kyle Yoest and Ron Erickson are they guys behind Project Syncro on Youtube.
Check out the excellent video they shot about my project....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T6mcstLZYE
This is the level of video shooting and editing that I aspire to.
Steve.
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All righty then... :-D
Another video, this time featuring some Benny Hill - style fast motion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UurzZv2sEiY
Steve
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The new custom CV shafts have been delivered (thank you for all the recommendations, guys). They fit perfectly, and are designed to handle up to 400HP, which this little 1.5L engine will never manage to produce.
All the powdercoated goodies have been installed on the suspension, the CV axles are now installed, and the little truck is just about ready to go back onto all 4 wheels.
Here's a video to show off the CV axles. The video now features some surf-rock background music and random rednecks acting goofy during the closing seconds....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHyHlzF4-zs
Steve.
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It's all going back together, 1 nut and bolt at a time.
The Ohio Mile is in 17 days. There is still plenty of work to be done, but enough time to complete all the "checklist" items.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/4ADDFB6A-435A-4816-82FD-294F6CD2F5E1_zpsftiqquiy.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/F9C6E34C-75AA-4738-A916-4780A56ACB95_zpsayt1podx.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/6A2C5233-1F3F-430C-BB8D-FF42ED92A898_zpswxe7lzha.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/9E3E10CD-C28C-430A-8AF8-74F8149F1EC1_zpsv6blmcay.jpg)
Ohio, here we come....
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I'm closing in on the To-Do list items for The Ohio Mile.
Last night, a friend and I set up our "Jackstands and String" wheel alignment fixture, made some small adjustments, and are pretty happy with the results.
In just over a week, we will see if we've been able to make any improvement in the 1-mile speed of the Salty Frog.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/2E2065D4-E4D2-436A-9D1C-31EE23A2E939_zpsphmezam6.jpg)
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Bad news - we were "One and Done" at Ohio this past weekend. The Rampage pulled great in 1st gear, 2nd gear, 3rd gear, then felt a little bit soft in 4th gear, and had no power in 5th. It might have actually slowed down in 5th gear.
In any event, the engine is dead in its current configuration. We burned up a piston in cylinder #3.
Here are a couple of videos (one from in-cab, another from the starting line)....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-rNLGyGnWA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqI_K3aafso&feature=youtu.be
(Run starts about 2:25 in this video)
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and some pics of the damage....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/0090FDE9-CF92-446F-909A-82765E4233D0_zpsjz1r0x4u.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B9B54730-7B7E-4D92-9BCE-01FEDC7DAE43_zpsdwvbbfbi.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C5D4D284-E770-48ED-913B-D142150FFF4B_zpsc7cmgjnu.jpg)
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That's a shame. Looks like maybe a valve floated and kissed a piston as well.
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Yeah- there was definitely contact. I haven't figured out why. My first thought was that maybe some molten aluminum got behind the valve head and stuck it open. There is almost no clearance in these VW diesel engines.
Steve.
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Sorry you lunched a motor Steve. :-(
Tough break brother.
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That's the way it goes in our chosen hobby.....
My challenge now is to see if I can pull it all together (machining, custom parts, etc) in time to go to Bonneville this summer.
Steve.
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You might turn some valves reliefs into those pistons as well... Maybe next time it won't hurt hard parts. Be sure to check your rods for bend too.
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You might turn some valves reliefs into those pistons as well... Maybe next time it won't hurt hard parts. Be sure to check your rods for bend too.
tough deal on a diesel. The last thing you want to do is anything that will lower compression, especially true of a small diesel.
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No, this is not always the case. The most powerful, fastest and quickest light truck based diesel engines in the u.s. drag racing right,now are sitting around 12 to 1 compression (power service dragster and scheid diesel dragster) 3000 ish hp 6500rpm and much more than 100 psi of boost.
The same principals are applied to sled pullers. (actually, pulling methods were applied to these engines.)
If I am not mistaken, that vw idi should be sitting somewhere between 19 and 21:1 comp ratio. Yes, it's easier to start, and helps the precup warm up and run without as much smoke while cold.
Losing a whole point of compression will not hurt much in the cold start department(esp if glow plus are still utilized) and may even result in MORE hp, as timing can be added without detriment to the peak cylinder pressure. Another benefit of added timing is cooler exhaust temps. Diesel is a slow burning fuel, start burn sooner, more energy released in burn (to a point) it will also cool off sooner, not torching exhaust valves or exhaust edge of piston crown.
Steve, higher hp cummins guys bevel the top of the piston side.
From top Of top ring land to top edge of piston crown, .010 to .015 taper is cut. It allows for,more agressive heat expansion without sticking piston in cylinder. Also it retains stock bore. (egt over 2000 dg can be had of fuel is kept off the piston)
Are you allowed to run straight water injection? Or is that out of class rules?
What egt, boost and iat levels we're you seeing at max?
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If that was a gas motor I would say that it leaned out on that cylinder, but with it being a diesel I'm not sure what would cause that. It definitely got way too hot and melted the edges of the piston though.
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As always, thank you for the great responses, guys.
I just returned from a business trip to Europe. It was maddening to not be able to respond to this forum from my phone - for some reason, the TapaTalk app did not want to play nicely with the forum software.
Re: Compression - the factory VW 1.5L IDI engines were 23.5:1 static compression. Through the use of a 1.9L "AAZ" cylinder head, mine is a much more boost-friendly 17.5:1 compression. The 1.9 heads have more volume in the pre-combustion chambers pressed into the head.
I am still using Glow Plugs, wired to a Ford type starter solenoid. I usually hit the plugs for 15 seconds or so before firing the engine.
Beveling the top of the piston, above the top ring, is an excellent idea. I think that's what killed my engine. VW recommends extremely small piston-to-wall dimensions. Even though I had my block bored higher than the VW-recommended spec, it is still very small (less than 0.002" total piston to wall clearance). I will definitely be increasing the clearance, and will talk to my machinist to see if he thinks he can machine an accurate bevel above the top ring.
The EGT's I was seeing were at or above 1600F, and running 40-45 psi boost.
Water injection is allowed, and I'm using a SNOW system, with a #3 (I think) nozzle. I'll have to check that when I get home.
Steve.
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Since 1mm oversized 1.5L VW diesel pistons are essentially unavailable, I have decided to order a set of 1.6TD pistons, which are the same diameter, but have a different wrist pin height and diameter.
To make up for the difference in pin height, I have ordered a set of custom connecting rods from Pauter Machine.
At this point, it will be a bit of a scramble to get it put back together in time for Bonneville, but that's my goal for 2016.
Steve.
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Nice, if the rods are longer that will set you up with a better rod ratio.
-
Yes, the rods are longer by necessity, but not a whole lot longer. Just over 1/8" increase in rod length.
I brought an old piston into my day job to let one of the machinists "test machine" a taper above the top ring groove.
Steve.
-
A quick update.....
With help from some friends, the engine has been removed from the Rampage.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/3C376BB3-8127-4547-9A4A-C0B6F0C55281_zpsjqooqepf.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/F139AFB2-D7CF-4676-8EFB-0DD6005B1047_zpsqvxxcugd.jpg)
After some wrenching, I got the engine dis-assembled to assess the damage. Sadly, this piston will not be re-used. I don't think the damage will "buff out".
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/F9ABC0B8-BCAF-406F-9599-4F7B191EE245_zpsdbcm7umv.jpg)
Now, it's time to get the block to the machine shop to see what it will take to clean up the bores, then order pistons, bore & hone to size, etc., etc, etc.
All she really needs is some TLC (time, and lotsa cash).
Steve.
-
Another quick update...
Before taking the block to AMT Racing engines (machine shop), I drilled "steam holes" in the 1.6TD block to match the coolant passages in the 1.9L cylinder head I'm using. This is similar to the 400 SBC type cooling arrangement, but in reverse. If my memory serves me, a 400 SBC has the holes in the block, but not all SBC heads have the holes drilled?
Anyway, I drilled these "speed holes" in my block yesterday...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/86B2C21C-61DB-4029-8029-B2ED21D54211_zpscidkqsqy.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/52739DE5-BE64-4397-8CF6-E72F565C4E13_zps9jcsu41a.jpg)
-
Today, I dropped off the engine block, crankshaft, block girdle kit, and various tidbits at AMT Racing engines.
I'm in it to win it.
Steve.
-
It seems to me that it is well within your ability to
make a great mark on that record.
Go for it.
FREUD
-
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Freud. We hold the record now, but there are at least 3 additional, very capable teams chasing the same record.
Unfortunately, my stuff will not be back together in time for SpeedWeek '16, but I should be able to compete at World of Speed or possibly World Finals if WoS is a no-go.
The small-displacement diesel categories seem to be gaining in popularity as small diesel engines become more common, especially in the USA. I think it's likely that more of the smaller displacement DT records will fall in the very near future.
Steve.
-
Another quick update.
The engine block is at AMT Racing engines. After inspection and test-honing, it was determined that I'd need to go to 1mm oversized pistons to allow the bore to clean up. Since +1mm 1.5L pistons are complete unobtanium, that meant I'd be buying a set of custom connecting rods to work with a set of easily obtainable 1.6 Turbo Diesel pistons.
So, the money has been spent, and the needed parts have been received. From Pauter Machine, I now have a set of custom connecting rods with 49mm big end, 24mm pin end, and 139.4mm center to center length...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/23C80AFF-480A-4A41-9EA0-2A76D7271A6A_zpsagfuigtt.jpg)
These suckers are HEAVY DUTY. They will be able to handle any amount of power that a small displacement VW diesel can tolerate.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/A6CF8C5B-270D-401B-9C36-36098531D24D_zpsbjbbyf3l.jpg)
To go along with the custom rods, I found a set of genuine OEM Kolbenschmidt "Turbo" pistons, which are notched for the oil squirters, and have an angled chamfer near the top of the piston, to allow for more localized heat on the top face....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C88E80DA-CE6C-4316-928F-E0D52C6B0BBE_zpscps9tyc1.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/8B5DDFB9-F30D-421C-B678-473B1CB3A6B5_zpsqagfwchg.jpg)
All of the parts are now at AMT, awaiting their turn....
-
Oh, yeah - I almost forgot.....
I also dropped off a bottom-end girdle and billet main caps at the machine shop. The main caps fit under the girdle, then the girdle ties the main caps to the skirt of the block, all the way around. Since we will be running 40+ pounds of boost this year, I really want to keep the bottom end solid.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CA95E2F9-2433-4955-ABC7-60B11DE0A8A5_zpsbjeuxdnj.jpg)
We are on "Phase 2" of a 3 phase engine development program. Melting a piston back in May was a setback for sure, but I think we will be ready to run again for World of Speed.
Steve.
-
Just talked to the machine shop. My block is on the hone, setting final bore size, then it needs to be align honed with the new billet main caps in place.
Keeping fingers crossed that the machine work will be done in the next few days, and then I'll have about 1 month to put it all back together and be ready for World of Speed. I know of at least 3 other teams who will be running in H/DT - hopefully we can push the limits of the 1.5L diesel power a bit higher than before.
Steve.
-
Another update....
The block is back from the machine shop. The bores have been cleaned up and honed for new pistons. The bottom end has been fitted for billet main caps and a girdle plate.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/ADC64619-7F05-4EF9-814D-DCABE7BCC732_zpsb6agynae.jpg)
Pistons and rods are in-hand.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/BDF4CC88-8C8F-4326-BD5E-08EB18282773_zps3v55fnwl.jpg)
The cylinder head is at TechTonics Tuning, being ported and assembled by one of the very best in the business, Collin Gyenes.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C62BA35C-9B23-441D-BA07-975B7481349A_zpstlopmpqh.jpg)
It will be a bit of a scramble to get it all put back together and ready for World of Speed, but that is what we are going to do.
There is a team currently chasing the H/DT record at Speed Week. Going into SW, I thought they would most likely bump the record up a bit, but it seems like they may be having some issues getting up to speed. I hope they get their setup working properly and can get the full performance out of it.
For my part, I plan to start with a conservative tune for WoS, and build carefully from a known baseline. I don't want a repeat performance of The Ohio Mile in May....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/F9ABC0B8-BCAF-406F-9599-4F7B191EE245_zpsdbcm7umv.jpg)
That's all for now....
Steve
-
I forgot to ask before, are you running ice in your waic system? Greenspeed had issues with their pump this week, and saw over 500dg iat for a few seconds. Typical for them is 70dg.
Running regular water you should be under 150, but ice helps even more. If it's too cold it can put out low rpm, low boost fire, and cause rough Running. But that can be worked around with a switch to turn pump off till heat gets going.
Any reduction in temperature can prevent meltdown. Also, a lean diesel is a cooler diesel, increase in air density can pack more oxygen in the hole, resultng in a leaner condition.
-
All smiles here! I just got a shout-out on the live feed from Bonneville from SSS and Ron Cristensen.
I'm listening while I sit at my desk.
Yes, my deal will be assembled and back on the salt for WoS.
Steve
-
I forgot to ask before, are you running ice in your waic system? Greenspeed had issues with their pump this week, and saw over 500dg iat for a few seconds. Typical for them is 70dg.
Running regular water you should be under 150, but ice helps even more. If it's too cold it can put out low rpm, low boost fire, and cause rough Running. But that can be worked around with a switch to turn pump off till heat gets going.
Any reduction in temperature can prevent meltdown. Also, a lean diesel is a cooler diesel, increase in air density can pack more oxygen in the hole, resultng in a leaner condition.
Thanks for the input. Yes, we typically use a couple of bags of ice and 2-3 gallons of water in our WAIC system (a Coleman cooler mounted in the bed of the truck). It's circulated by a RULE bilge pump (forget which model right now). The IC gets cold enough to have condensation literally dripping off it.
I also have a SNOW water "fogger" system between the IC and the intake.
My engine normally runs a little rough until it warms up anyway. I typically don't turn on the circulation pump or the fogger system (with a pressure switch) until just before making a pass.
I'd like to add an IAT gauge before WoS, as I have no idea what I actually see in terms of intake temps.
My main plan is to dial back the fuel for some test runs, keeping an eye on the EGT's, then add fuel in small increments until EGT's get too high. When the engine blows up, then I'll dial it back down a tad. :-D
Steve.
-
Steve:
Sounds like the perfect Bonneville tune-up sequence. Start out at a conservative then tune until it sets a record or blows up. My friends tell me... "you have all year to fix it"!
BR
-
Right you are.
I've been telling people "I don't want to blow it up on the first pass, but if I don't have a record near the end of the meet, I don't mind blowing it up then".
Steve
-
That sounds like a plan to stick to. I hope you get it all together and ready to go in time. I'll be rooting for you.
-
Second round of Shout-Outs. Ron and Slim are reading this build thread aloud over the feed right now.
Steve.
-
Sounds like I need to plan a salt trip this fall.
-
I want to give some special thanks to Ron and Jon for mentioning me when the H/DT entry ran at Speedweek. Sounds like those guys with the Crosley truck are getting it sorted out. Having R&J call the action was a real treat.
Now, I've got to do my part, and get really busy putting my stuff back together.
I'm making it my personal goal to run over 140mph in H/DT at World of Speed.
Thrash time has begun.....
Girdled bottom end....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/34E0742E-ED84-4C3C-8DAC-226194563155_zpslpxksunx.jpg)
Assembled short block top end....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/8B298192-2E87-4BAC-822D-200329BCC8D4_zpskyqgfojl.jpg)
Ported head....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C62BA35C-9B23-441D-BA07-975B7481349A_zpstlopmpqh.jpg)
About to hang it on the chain....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/07C97FF9-C4C6-48D2-A8D1-415EFC940121_zpsosusoehx.jpg)
Mating the shortblock to the trans...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/A87F3062-79DB-4F45-9452-4F6A2F6158AA_zpsgzk4ty04.jpg)
There's not a lot of time to spare between now and World of Speed.
Steve.
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I talked to the Crosley guys a couple of times. The motor is a very late model Renault (2015?) with very low miles on it (3000?). Anyway -- it had something like 80 electrical connections when they got it -- they hired an electrical engineer who got it down to 9. But I guess the throttle-down for gear changes, the lane-avoidance, the air bag deceleration cycle along with the shut-down heat cycle and non-smoking sign were eliminated.
What did it finally run? (You can get better information by not actively attending the event.)
-
I can't say exactly what their fastest run was, but I think it was in the range of 124 mph or so.
Maybe if they keep cutting wires, it will keep going faster.... :-D
But seriously, that little Crosley truck is so tiny, I think that they will be able to "bump" the existing record when they get the full potential out of their engine.
Steve.
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And it was so cute to watch run. :roll:
-
It's getting short on time before World of Speed, so no cuteness for me, Slim. Time to find my "Wrench Mojo", and get seriously busy putting this thing back together.....
I received the head from Collin at Techtonics Tuning. This thing is going to flow like melted butter over popcorn.... Smooth ports, big springs, big cam, BIG flow.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/621FC313-F3A9-4906-BAAB-C7460FD87662_zps3t60wrtt.jpg)
Setting up for the evening (last night)...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/9AE94908-652C-4F86-B574-C80EF2D2F1F0_zpsnbp4vx91.jpg)
And opening my East German crate full of rare and lovely speed parts to find just-the-right combination...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/FFCC128A-2629-4E09-B798-375582771E2B_zps5epqcaof.jpg)
I'm working in the office this morning, then back to the wrenches later today. With any kind of luck, I'll be firing the #672 H/DT up before the end of the weekend - Monday night at the latest.
STeve.
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CJW Crosley made about 7 runs, well at least started the runs. this was the best run.
112 H DT Carbone-Johnston-Wendt 118.032 112.881 119.174 119.174 17-Aug-16
-
Even though the head is not a crossflow, those ports are something to be jealous of!!!
-
Can't wait to see this thing at World of Speed.
-
I can't wait to be at WoS! I have my "to do", my "to pack", and my "to buy" list all made out. It's just a matter of completing all of the items in the boxes.
I made good progress over the weekend - as a wise man said - "Slow is Fast". I was very careful setting up the head, getting the cam, crank, and pump timing adjusted properly (VW diesels are a PITA to get timed properly).
A few more pics....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/0A911120-5936-4E02-9E33-BABE41D59521_zpswtrjhety.jpg)
Cylinder head on the bench, with injectors glow plugs, intake and exhaust manifolds installed.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/A7D626D7-5317-4A80-A7BA-8B1AD8F7B75A_zpslxcqcmpm.jpg)
Head studs installed in block. I'm sure glad that I decided against using hardware store lag bolts, as opposed to the ARP studs.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/75AAB436-525B-40E0-B8E4-168E09966E83_zpsm65yyjef.jpg)
Head installed on the block, and studs torqued to 125 ft-lbs. Yes, 125 ft-lbs.
Back to wrenching tonight.
Steve
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CJW Crosley made about 7 runs, well at least started the runs. this was the best run.
112 H DT Carbone-Johnston-Wendt 118.032 112.881 119.174 119.174 17-Aug-16
CJW must have been getting the bugs ironed out later in the week. They ran 121.63 on Thursday, and 123.383 on Friday, both on the combined (Long) course.
To my eye, those little Chop-Top Crosley Trucks should have a lot of potential.
Steve
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Back from Bonneville, and we had an absolutely fantastic time! I really appreciate everyone who stopped by the pit and mentioned that they enjoy the build thread.
I'll try to share some more stories, but thought I should post one pic that sums up how our World of Speed ended.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/6EE4BBD0-3418-4740-9CE6-BC407D0BBC69_zpsnmpebsnr.jpg)
This happened on our last pass (7th pass overall for WoS). I told my friend (a rookie driver), to put his foot down, drive it like he stole it, and try to bump up the record. Go big or go home. Well, we went home after the engine blew while on the track, leaving some oil on the salt and causing a delay as we had to tow him off the course.
Sorry about the delay to those who may have been waiting behind us, and to the clean-up crew.
We will be back next year, and plan to keep all the oil inside the engine(s) we are bringing.
Steve.
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Another sacrifice on the Alter of Salt.
-
Well, did you bump the record?
#fuelmuch?
-
Oh maaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnn.
:-(
-
Well, did you bump the record?
#fuelmuch?
I was not able to "bump" the record before the melt-down. Best pass at 2016 WOS was 132.xx mph on the 2-1/4 mile "Short" course. Record is 135.003 mph.
-
That's a bummer... Have you thought about coating the combustion chamber surfaces? Do it doesn't torch another piston?
-
Here is footage of run #5 of 7. This is what I consider to be the last "good" run of the 2016 season for #672 H/DT. 132 mph and some change.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0H-ciJko4Q
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That's a bummer... Have you thought about coating the combustion chamber surfaces? Do it doesn't torch another piston?
Good idea for "next" time.
-
IMHO, looks like piston "debonding" to me. However I have been wrong at least once before in my lifetime. :-D Good luck with the autopsy for the cause of it's demise. We're all watching and waiting.
Ron
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I have seen guys polish piston crowns, the head side chamber face, and face of valves. It supposedly reflects heat easier.
I do know, trying to tig weld polished aluminum is significantly harder to get a puddle started,, it takes a ton more juice, but once it starts, flows out just as easily.
Another test, would be polish a nut, and then try a heat comparison with a non polished nut. Heat with a torch, see which one turns red first.
These are just another thought for "next time" trying to prevent the next "next time".
-
For anyone interested, here's video from the final (and fatal) pass #7 of 7. This was with my friend, (a rookie driver) at the wheel.
Upon reviewing the video, there are several things I'd do differently. This was the 3rd pass in a fairly short period of time (back to back to back passes).
Before this run even started, the water temps were too high, and only got hotter. EGT's look like they were maxxed out before the top of 3rd gear, as well. (Guages are from left to right - EGT, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Water temp, and Boost). The blue/silver thing under the tach is a GPS speedometer.
Anyway - live and learn....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pl60gADiHnc
-
I took the injectors to St Louis Diesel Injection Service to have them tested. The tech there said they all looked "perfect", so at least I know a bad injector was not the problem...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5O8JR3RXdQ&feature=youtu.be
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OK - time for a little more ugliness (you have to hit rock bottom before rising back up, right?)...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/BCA42C95-73A0-4975-9329-5DA42E1BF33D_zpsninsobbc.jpg)
Here's a peek inside the exhaust inlet of the turbocharger. Seeing metal "crumbs" at this location cannot be a good sign.
Then, we get a look at the hot side turbine of the turbo - I hope no one else ever sees this in their turbo - apparently they are not designed to ingest liquid metal...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/698D7348-C5BB-4844-9FDA-D15066A8211B_zpshzqvazpc.jpg)
Last pic for now - sadly, this scene is becoming all-too familiar and frequent: (out with the bad).
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/62A771BD-EED3-4621-93DB-B2255A43CFCC_zpskdhjymh3.jpg)
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Remember we do this for fun :cheers:
John
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Steve,
Nice to finally meet you and thanks for loaning Jerry your sealant.
Bummer about your engine/turbo. :-(
Don
-
Don:
Same back atcha (except you didn't loan me any sealant). I hope the Hylomar helped with Jerry's intake issues.
As far as my engine - I'm chalking it up to my own lack of good judgement in terms of the tuneup and prep on the engine.
I've already started collecting parts to put it back together. My goal is to run both a 2 liter and a rebuilt 1.5 liter diesel next season.
Steve.
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I think we've seen enough ugliness on my build thread for a while. How about something beautiful?
....like maybe 400 ponies in a box....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/11C3ABC9-C24C-4391-841A-4916BE688F0D_zpsre1gdqql.jpg)
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OH
MY
DOG!!
That is beautiul!!!
-
It's definitely a good looking package. Even in stock configuration, Mercedes Benz likes their stuff to look nice under the hood.
This one is definitely NOT stock!
Steve.
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Steve, what size is the one in the box?
Bill
-
It's just under 2 liters, intended for G/DT class.
Combination of a 2.2L block, sleeved for smaller pistons, and a somewhat rare 2.0L crankshaft. (Never available in the USA). Weirdo European parts.
Steve.
-
What turbo size did the builder end up settling on? 400hp sounds fantastic!
-
Petter Lonning is the turbo guy's name. He's a Norwegian turbo guru.
Turbo for the 2 liter is a Holset HE351 with a custom HX35-12cm turbine housing (non-wastegate).
Ultimately, he would like me to run compound turbos, but I told him I wanted to start out simple and conservative.
Steve.
-
Very nice, those are solid 65 lb/min turbos. I have ran several on different vehicles.
While that turbo may be laggy as a single, drive pressures will be way down vs a compound setup. Salty DOG racing had a compound setup on their Cummins lsr truck and ended up having significant drive pressure and get issues. Swapped a large single on, and stopped having issues, gained a couple hundred hp due to lower pumping losses and better tuning, and are now reliable. So, good choice.
-
Thanks for the affirmation! I don't know much about turbo selection, but I have faith in those who know what they are talking about.
If I can get this setup to be reliable, that would save a lot of wear and tear on my wallet.
Salty Dog - is that the white Dakota LSR truck?
-
No, white 09 full-size dodge.
Greenspeed is the s10 with Cummins power.
-
I think Salty Box is Tim Boyle's full sized truck.
There is also a white Dakota (early '90's model). They race as "STD Racing" - I thought maybe that was Salty Dog?
I'm familiar with the Greenspeed truck as well.
Salty Dog is the one that I'm not familiar with.
In any event - the simplicity of a big single turbo setup sounds reassuring.
Steve.
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I think we've seen enough ugliness on my build thread for a while. How about something beautiful?
....like maybe 400 ponies in a box....
Holy crap!
-
You are right on the salty box thing. I mixed it up with a drinking establishment I have visited before. Oops
-
You are right on the salty box thing. I mixed it up with a drinking establishment I have visited before. Oops
There are a lot of "Salty" names associated with the LSR crowd, that's for sure. Big Tim's big white Dodge is certainly impressive, as is his team's entire effort. The stuff that comes out of his shop is inspiring.
Meanwhile, back in my humble abode, I spent some time cleaning up the "Salty Frog" garage and playing around with the limits of suspension lowering. Without extensive modification, I think this is about as low as I'd ever be able to go. At this point, the front suspension crossmemeber is about 1/4" from the floor. If I got really creative, I might be able to modify the crossmember mounting points to gain another 3/4" inch or so until "Everything" hits.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CDF88C60-A21F-4D99-8776-CE01FB338D16_zpsdbg7zhzd.jpg)
This setup is not really practical, but a fun exercise, nonetheless....
-
Big Tim is good shit. Helped me a ton
-
Quick update for those interested....
If you are buying an engine from outside the US and want to import it legally, be prepared to go through some governmental type Red Tape.
Until recently, I would not have guessed that I would be on a first-name basis with anyone at the United States Environmental Protection Agency. However, through the process of importing this Mercedes OM604 engine, that's exactly what has happened.
Yes, it's a hassle, but I did everything "by the book", 100% legally, and won't have to worry about the Feds ever coming after me for having a non-compliant engine.
The engine is not yet in my hands, but has cleared customs.
Steve.
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Just an FYI:
Here is a pic of the file folder containing all the documents (copies of emails, customs forms, declarations, certified statements and EPA guidelines) related to importing a Non-US-spec engine into the USA for competition purposes. Proceed at your discretion:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/5D999BFA-EB94-4A11-B831-FB8B0D06996F_zps6flpe63k.jpg)
All the hassle will be worth the effort when I'm on the salt next summer.
Steve.
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Shouldn't that file be named OMG 604 Import? :-o :-D
Feel your pain, Steve! I tried to get a Toyota racing head in the early '70's and the only rubber stamps they had said NFW! :-(
-
The good news is that all the hassle "should" have paid off.
Engine and trans should be on my shipping dock Tuesday - all "Legal Eagle".
The guy I talked to at EPA said that none of the Customs Brokers he's ever dealt with have known how to handle this kind of thing. He was actually quite helpful, getting me the correct forms, telling me what documentation I needed, and even providing me with an example letter with each point that needed to be addressed.
Steve.
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Great news - look what showed up on the shipping dock today....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/010AD94F-B018-4E30-9AE8-D89714CBFC0D_zpsbuyargn8.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/D256725F-3BA0-4B4E-9FF5-2D99CFE48FC0_zpsb5jesjvp.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/982D3191-FA22-40D8-A024-C058226C70F2_zpsalwjzzfc.jpg)
The crate is now in the back of my "big" green pickup truck, on its way to the little green pickup truck...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/14CAE4F2-6670-4044-AD70-E96810E28CFB_zpsnpeedqy2.jpg)
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Very nice piece.
Good luck on your endeavors with it.
Bf262
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Nice, just in time for the holidays!
Good luck.
BR
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Hey, Steve,
Yes, a bit of a headache, a bit of a hassle, and I went through a similar experience trying to bring my K-Series in from Great Britain.
I used FedEx, and the folks there were quite helpful in directing me toward the correct paperwork.
I want to say it cost about $750.00 to ship a $150.00 boneyard piece across the pond.
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Yes, the shipping fees were about $1,000 for this engine & trans package.
I used my employer's commercial UPS Customs Broker to help me through the required paperwork, but there was still A LOT that I had to do myself. I still haven't seen the bill from the customs broker yet. I'm a little scared of that bill, but that doesn't really matter, since I have the engine in my possession now.
Steve.
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All the best Steve. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Add some Holy Water for insurance. :wink:
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All the best Steve. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Add some Holy Water for insurance. :wink:
Thanks - I should take it to Mass on Sunday to ask the Priest for a special blessing.
Steve.
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2 of my friends stopped by last night to help with test fitting of the new engine & trans into the Rampage. I'll try to tell the story with captioned photos:
Step 1 - bolt these two parts together:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/67D5C180-9C44-4139-9E68-2AC28ED9BE49_zpsfyak9lll.jpg)
Step 2 - OK, done. This looks bigger and heavier than the VW drivetrain we were using before....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/F9806C05-D894-4893-855C-5006C6039E13_zps6aytnnaa.jpg)
Step 3 - Yeah, it's definitely bigger....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/542EC1D3-AC56-4D24-B91F-1B8E76637CD7_zps1gtl6jcx.jpg)
Step 4 - I think it's going to hit....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/625FFDB3-698D-4996-8E80-899657EA150C_zpsavuj9cbg.jpg)
Step 5 - Hit what? Hit everything....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/2D513D64-51B0-4302-A32C-B826DE9B67D0_zpsbuujact0.jpg)
Step 6 - Nahhhh, it will go....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/952E1A48-E160-4027-A49C-BCC6EBC52F0C_zpsfmvzr7cb.jpg)
Step 7 - Are you sure? Yeah, I'm pretty sure....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DDFFB2F5-5DC6-4DA6-AE9B-2B4987A5CFED_zpsi45wum7s.jpg)
Step 8 - All right, Man, looks pretty good....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B6BB47E9-2C66-4E1C-9E32-2F60F0EB064E_zpsopz9djdu.jpg)
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You got it in sideways. How're you going to attach it to the rear end?
-
How 'bout a long flexy cable, Stan?
-
It's a little long on one end, and a bit wide on one side.
I wear size 15 boots - can I loan you my shoehorn?
-
Next up - carefully marking the firewall, welded-in transmission mount, and radiator core support before making some strategic cuts.
Steve.
-
Hoping to find some time to cut the firewall and "rain tray" back over the next few days.
Steve.
-
It's a little long on one end, and a bit wide on one side.
I wear size 15 boots - can I loan you my shoehorn?
Size 15?????. Brother, that must be a shoe horn the size of a skate board.
And you drive an MG!!!. Big respect Chris. :cheers:
Steve, I never thought a diesel could look that good!!!
Nice work man. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Nice Steve!
-
I'm trying to keep the project moving....
I had a good session in the garage last night. Part of my "Action Plan" for installation of the 2 liter drivetrain involved creating some more space for the header and turbo arrangement. I had previously set back a portion of the firewall for turbo clearance on the 1.5L, but it was becoming apparent that I'd need more room for the 2 liter setup.
After laying out a few cut lines, removing some wiring and plumbing from the firewall, and carefully covering the windshield, it was time to start cutting.
This new tool is worth a pause in the action... I bought a diamond-coated cutoff wheel for my 4-1/2 inch grinder. It's a LENOX brand wheel, cost about $15 at Lowes, and I am thoroughly impressed so far. A normal abrasive cutoff wheel costs about 3 bucks or so, so I was hoping that the diamond coated LENOX wheel would pay for itself. I'm here to tell you, that diamond wheel did a great job cutting through multiple thicknesses of sheet metal, and best of all, there was much less black grit, and the wheel didn't get smaller. (Unfortunately, I didn't take a photo of the cutoff wheel).
Anyway, I sliced and diced a bigger section of the firewall out, which will be boxed in within the next few weeks....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C91EEC5F-0EAB-4FDE-ABAE-FCD8B74DF1CF_zpsyzdphqpa.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/E7CC2AE6-5932-4DE0-BA59-D5EA323E5D2F_zpsnbmn7skw.jpg)
...and the new view from inside the cabin, after another test-fitting of the engine & trans....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/FF68D608-1898-4C98-8DF0-1D821DE3CD02_zpsjvqhildu.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/6ABC1CC0-EBE7-4C1C-83DA-49D9BAC6D2BE_zpsdogfovgu.jpg)
Since I only want to do this once, I think I may widen the opening a bit on the passenger's side of the firewall.
Steve.
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That's a great foto presentation. Thanx.
-
More updates....
I'm working on a way to make the whole front end easily removable (fenders, nose cone, bumper, and core support) for easier service and engine swaps.
My goal is to get the front-end removal process simplified to the point where 2 people can have the whole front clip off in less than 5 minutes. I think I have a pathway forward, but it's going to take quite a bit more work to be practical.
The plan for 2017 is to show up at SpeedWeek with the 2 liter engine & trans installed and ready to run. I will have the 1.5 liter engine and trans in the truck or trailer, on "standby" for a quick swap if needed. In any event, here are a few pics...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/8EE21F5A-881C-40EC-99D7-E9480DA99F7E_zps8inbct0p.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/7F8EB732-5F2A-4465-A334-AE63D6C36603_zps6ojdntjo.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C0F2EF67-E3EA-4118-B67D-788580D69BC6_zpslktc9lio.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/0BE776DE-168A-4710-A4AF-DB15FDDD217B_zpsxbxkfvxp.jpg)
As seen in the last photo, the 2 liter engine & trans takes up most of the available space in the engine bay.
-
It's funny how the to do list on a race car only ever shortens temporarily. Great looking work as always Steve. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Turn it 90ยบ and you'll have a lot more room.
-
One more piece of the puzzle...
Custom made billet steel flywheel.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/E3A18B5E-F679-4B05-8342-35414B166548_zpscv5ebo4p.jpg)
Crossing fingers - I REALLY hope this thing fits right. If it doesn't, I have no one to blame but myself.
Steve.
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It's easy to tell when time is getting short.
The money starts flowing like gravy at Thanksgiving dinner.
Not many pics to show, but I have ordered a new radiator to replace the cardboard mock-up shown in this pic, along with the Davies-Craig electric water pump and controller. A brand-new set of custom CV axles have also been ordered to take up space between the 6 speed F40 transaxle and the drive hubs.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CE29236C-13C2-4C6C-B546-248D8A34E9AA_zpsgh8cfnsk.jpg)
The list is getting a bit shorter to be ready for Speed Week, but there is still a huge amount of work to do, and plenty of money to be spent.
Steve.
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Steve said: "...plenty of money to be spent."
Steve, do you really care how fancy your casket is gonna be? Enjoy the $$ now, and leave 'em a couple of rattle cans of Rustoleum brown for the pine box. :cheers: :cheers: :dhorse:
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We know you've been busy, Steve - the posts have trailed off.
Nevertheless, it is stunning the progress you've made on the different iterations of this vehicle.
We'll look over your shoulder, and we're grateful for the updates, but carry on - we don't want to bother you. :cheers:
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Awesome stuff Steve.
We joined the forum at about the same time and you have a record already!!!.
I'm here bitchin about my lot in life. You inspire me man. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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The surprise to me is that you have accomplished anything at all.
Out there on the 3rd rock from the moon and still accomplishing.
If there is anyone to be proud of your accomplishment it is YOU.
Electricity blowing up, thieves stealing the wiring and noone who
can give you any first hand advice, except people half the world
away, and You still accomplish.
Great job, Son.
FREUD
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I uploaded a few more pics, and started testing the limits of my credit card again. Let's see where I left off....
I bought a second-hand Syncrowave 180SD, because I've always wanted one. My TIG skills are nothing to brag about, but have been improving.
Started out by making a few mounts and brackets...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/54A09B44-9FAF-4AB6-87C8-1828FE04CCFC_zpsygblm2fd.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/5F8CB8E0-10F0-4BC8-AA8C-48DB166E94F2_zpsxcbasxaw.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/D78783CC-C543-40FF-8966-9BAF736E6A87_zpsbfruno0g.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/2BEA5A00-771F-45EE-9D04-B2178B352791_zpsjdb4hh0g.jpg)
Then I started making cardboard "mock ups" for a bigger radiator and intercooler. The aluminum intercooler is the "old" one. New cardboard cooler is a bit larger.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/3EB47879-6EB0-409D-9A18-2B5CD3DC21B7_zpsgsbxypyl.jpg)
Radiator and intercooler fit into place....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/6C5AB597-F9CB-42AE-8AD0-50116B5DA8D3_zps1ndzc4jh.jpg)
Exhaust donut for the turbo "Down Pipe"
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/1015F04E-4EE1-4EA6-AE6B-3C2C0DCD7ED2_zps3tpgvx6o.jpg)
This small hole in the firewall will have to be patched later (turbo downpipe visible through the hole).
Steve.
-
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/07089B3C-DA29-4A14-BE59-B03BE998C665_zpsw84eidio.jpg)
Small hole in the firewall (downpipe bends visible).
I adjusted the coil-overs and set the truck back on the ground to check ride height and oil pan clearance. I think I can lower it a bit more, but will wait until the radiator, intercooler, and nose section are re-installed.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/BCF2F54F-C52A-40D7-94B4-C58BF82646EC_zpsuvm51oip.jpg)
The Davies Craig electric water pump (150 l / min) and electronic pump/fan controller arrived today.
The aluminum radiator (same dimensions as cardboard radiator) has been ordered, as has the aluminum intercooler, and steel CV axles.
Those parts should all be here before the end of the month.
Speed Week approaches rapidly.
STeve.
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If anyone is interested in seeing the Action Plan format & template I'm using, here's a .Pdf snap of it. If you'd like a copy of the template, please send an IM.
Steve.
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In keeping with the "Every Day is like Christmas" - (Except the day when the credit card statement arrives), I now have a LARGE Griffin aluminum radiator, and a Davies Craig electric water pump & water pump/fan controller.
The aluminum radiator will make a nice replacement for the cardboard unit being utilized right now.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/6633ACB5-D6E1-4D38-BF8B-93069992B0BF_zpsmc3gsbg6.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/D954B1F6-9980-464E-9B64-D4D4F7B6305C_zpsk6xodaha.jpg)
I guess I'd better get busy installing this stuff.
Steve.
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Those Davies Craig pumps are slicker than snot with their variable flow control. They're fairly new to the US but have been on the Australian market for ever.
Sid.
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This setup shipped straight from the Motherland. (I even had to pay in Aussie dollars).
Steve.
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If anyone is interested in seeing the Action Plan format & template I'm using, here's a .Pdf snap of it. If you'd like a copy of the template, please send an IM.
Steve.
Steve -
What, ARE YOU CRAZY?
Don't you know the rules?
DON'T BE KEEPING TRACK OF THE COST OF THIS STUFF, AND NEVER LEAVE A PAPER TRAIL!
:wink:
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I was gunna take a pdf snapshot with my Polariod but then I don't know what an "IM" is, is that an impersonal message? :?
Sid.
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Individual Message, Impersonal Message, whatever....
I probably should have said Personal Message.
The Excel file is too large to be included as an attachment, but I can email it to anyone interested.
Steve.
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"DON'T BE KEEPING TRACK OF THE COST OF THIS STUFF, AND NEVER LEAVE A PAPER TRAIL!"
Truer words have never been spoken.
John
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Feel free to "hide" the Dollar-related columns.
I find that having an Action Plan with deadlines to be a good way to organize the work, however.
Steve.
On a more enjoyable note, the non-cardboard radiator has arrived, and looks like it's going to be a good fit.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/FD9ED274-34DC-4CE1-A77E-24251BAE7AA6_zpsbasxrzvu.jpg)
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Beautiful radiator Steve!!!!!!!!.
Was it a birthday present?. :-D
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Great progress man!
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Gotta keep making progress.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/BF8DEAE3-0E5D-4A80-9FA5-65D6DBB0FB04_zpslxwvczc4.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/AEB88D87-9636-4B12-B057-8314F712DB53_zps0boz9l2c.jpg)
The good news is that the new radiator fits, and the hood will close!
Steve.
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I am envious of the size of that engine bay!!!
-
:-D
Yeah - I was thinking about making a 7/8 scale replica of the Rampage to minimize some of the "free space", then see if anyone would notice.
Steve.
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In my never-ending quest to bore everyone here with tiny details, I have 2 more pics uploaded and ready to share from last night.
For the 2 liter engine, the exhaust & turbo setup includes 2 external wastegate/blowoff valves. Routing the various exhaust pipes is a bit of a challenge under-hood.
On Monday night, as a couple of friends were over bench-racing, we came up with a vision to route both wastegate dumps out through the passenger's side fender. The vision is these 1-1/2" pipes should have the general appearance of a double-barreled shotgun pointing out of the fender well.
To that end, I broke out an apparatus which I'm not crazy about using, but is sometimes a necessary evil. It's the old "Hole Saw on an Extension". At least in this case, the wrist-twisting shouldn't be too severe, as it's only a 1-5/8" hole saw, and a 20V DeWalt drill. Not enough to put me in the hospital with a broken arm or busted jaw...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CFFF8920-2FBC-4C58-BCD3-E9FE52741ADE_zps0p0chsaj.jpg)
After cutting a couple of holes through the small area between the strut tower and firewall on the passenger's side (lining the holes up with an existing opening on the inner fender reinforcement "box", I was able to test fit the 2 wastegate dump pipes.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/82C027BF-E7D0-4739-BCF9-351A5A3B95FC_zps0fgf6mok.jpg)
I think it's going to work pretty well in terms of plumbing ease, freeing up some space under-hood, and looking cool. Now, I have to bring myself to cut hole(s) in the outer fender, and fabricate some type of decorative flange to surround the opening.
Steve
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Steve, when I saw the first bit of the (hole saw) picture - just the saw and an inch or two of the extension -- my wrist started hurting MAJORLY! Too many snags over all the years. . .
Geez, man, don't show us things that can go ouch. :roll:
-
:-D
Yeah - I was thinking about making a 7/8 scale replica of the Rampage to minimize some of the "free space", then see if anyone would notice.
Steve.
That was actually done back in the late 80's with an Oldsmobile. I ended up pushing the thing with a pickup to 100mph trying to get it on boost at a private FIA meet. I guess the cat got out of the bag when the factory wanted pictures along side a new one.
Sid.
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I've heard the "Urban Legend" story of Smokey Yunick using the "7/8", or other similarly downsized Chevelle back in the late 60's/ 1970-ish. Not sure whether to believe the Smokey Yunick story or not.
The petite Oldsmobile story seems more believable.
Steve.
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As crunch time approaches, the parts are flowing in, right on schedule (for now)....
Next up, a custom set of CV axles to mate a Saab 6-speed transaxle to a pair of Plymouth Acclaim drive hubs, attached to an '84 Dodge Rampage suspension.
Autozone couldn't look up the correct axle part#, because I couldn't tell them if the vehicle was originally equipped with air conditioning or not.
Instead, I ordered this pair of beauties from "The Driveshaft Shop". They do great work!
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/29F2A2C8-5FE6-4C90-9151-9CE0DEF0EF47_zps46nxjzk0.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/145D1A15-20B2-42C9-98B7-611500D11C4F_zpsjdnyx1kz.jpg)
Cool stickers, too.
-
I've heard the "Urban Legend" story of Smokey Yunick using the "7/8", or other similarly downsized Chevelle back in the late 60's/ 1970-ish. Not sure whether to believe the Smokey Yunick story or not.
The petite Oldsmobile story seems more believable.
Steve.
Smokey did a lot of things that were not to be believed. I still miss that guy.
John
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Good looking parts Steve.
You've come a long way.
Awesome build. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
-
Good looking parts Steve.
You've come a long way.
Awesome build. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Thank you very much. The progress feels very slow, but I just have to keep pushing - one piece at a time, and make sure it's all done in time for Speed Week....
Last night's progress - working on the wastegate dump pipes.
The details may seem mundane, but posting helps keep me motivated.
First - I had to set up my "pipe stretching" apparatus:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/7FF9933D-9478-475F-88D8-7344C51AA3C3_zpsrn3ccf1h.jpg)
Then, fire up the TIG machine and get some much needed practice....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DC1152F6-3C58-4F00-9B91-8BD8AD57423A_zpsmpc8niv6.jpg)
Then, to do that activity that always hurts - cutting holes in otherwise good sheet metal. I would have preferred to avoid damaging a "Performance by Dieselmeken" decal, but some sacrifices must be made to the gods of speed:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/8B0FD980-BAB1-4462-A046-225DB9890B72_zps2hknxj2l.jpg)
I'll need to make an escutcheon-type plate and trim the pipes off, but this will be the general layout for the wastegate pipes.
Steve.
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Gotta keep plugging away.....
Although SCTA will not allow a cardboard firewall, I thought it might be a good way to make a template for the steel firewall modifications....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/AB52999C-DE5E-4F3C-AC20-72B7C7D273A6_zps2acb2vxg.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CC8F8060-5FEB-4BC9-90DF-8F3DD1A3730A_zpsh05nvmnt.jpg)
Not bad for a first (rough) fitting.
Various other parts of the project are progressing, as well...
Can I interest anyone in a receiver hitch to fit an '82-'84 Dodge Rampage? This thing was basically just hanging under the back end, causing a bit of extra wind drag.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/81047294-B725-4805-870E-025D7E0A179D_zpsvkdvegph.jpg)
And I received a parcel today which I hope to put to good use.
An aluminum OM606 intake manifold. I feel a lot better about modifying and using this intake, as compared to the plastic OM604 intake that was stock for the engine.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/6CA31D41-17D7-4E5B-9C64-27E0C1441FA7_zpsrtebh7r0.jpg)
-
Amen, Steve. Cardboard templates can save a ton of re-working aluminum or steel panels.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Agreed Neil. :cheers:
-
I do a lot of CNC work here too Steve, Cut N Cardboard. 8-)
Autozone....What are we working on today sir?.....Is that a diesel? Good luck with that one Mate! :-D
Sid.
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Gotta keep posting updates....Gotta keep posting updates.....
New axles installed. They fit- which is great news!
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/56FDF2DD-86B9-4DCA-AB0C-64C462ED45EA_zps41okholo.jpg)
Sharp-eyed viewers may notice the slightest, tiny-est, bit of rust on suspension bolts and components. I have no idea how that happened.
These 4-cylinder Mercedes diesels (OM604) were only available with plastic intake manifolds from the factory. Considering the amount of boost I plan to run through this engine, I didn't think that a plastic intake was a good idea.
What IS GOOD, however, is the fact that a 6 cylinder aluminum intake manifold will bolt up directly to the 4 cylinder head, the ports match up perfectly, etc. It's just a bit too long....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/08EDB09D-BB50-412B-814E-6CD777B3D0C7_zpspkzxzchv.jpg)
No problem, right? Let's just cut a bit off the end....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/5A398B67-6C81-4C46-ACD2-3CD550715019_zpspaa5vqja.jpg)
I'll keep the leftover part in case I ever decide to build a 1-1/2 cylinder MB diesel...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/2132BD5C-A801-4C36-9BE9-E6F75179219C_zpsqrjksbuk.jpg)
-
That half cylinder is destined to run a tad lean, I'd guess...
-
OK - more updates, gotta keep making progress...., etc.
First of all - infrastructure and organization are important. To that end, I have started labeling the drawers of my tool chests. This is not so much to benefit me, but to benefit anyone who may be foolish enough to stop by and help work on my project...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DA2A4A1C-2B89-4934-B061-873CD1146FA8_zpsqfw0a77v.jpg)
Next up, since SCTA would not approve my waiver for a cardboard firewall, I went ahead with the plan to make one from 0.062" thick steel.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B8515DB6-0D5C-462C-A600-5FFAD9CBBE83_zpsx4fqo1dq.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/E324F568-B160-48CA-9593-9279880947D3_zpsj2xguukg.jpg)
Then, on to making an extra-heavy duty upper core support with gusseted corners....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/E4CF466F-A509-4B96-8CF3-91B29D8FD2B4_zpshjgsrrme.jpg)
and I managed to "score" a set of discontinued shift cables for a 2006 Pontiac G6 GTP (6-speed) car. These are discontinued parts from GM.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/199F7720-FCB8-47C1-9240-2FB60B2CF02B_zps4rxuqdzv.jpg)
Lastly (for now), I built a shifter mounting bracket from 80/20 extruded aluminum channel. This should allow me to change from the Mercedes/Saab/6-speed setup back to the VW/VW 5-speed setup with relative ease.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/5C6D164A-385D-42CF-A633-ED539A590B05_zpsgqvrms7u.jpg)
That's all for now, folks...
-
Just to keep the documentation up to date - I spent most of the weekend cutting, grinding, and welding in the engine compartment of the Rampage.
I have boxed the Lee Iacocca era "frame rails", C-notched those rails for clearance at the transmission and for the water neck outlet on front of the Mercedes engine, have the steel firewall welded in, and have constructed a heavy-duty tubular steel upper radiator core support to help keep the nose of the truck from flexing backwards, while supporting the upper radiator mounts as well...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/78C8AFEA-AF39-47F8-A366-0D5A0D10A7C1_zpsoxudnrqr.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/221A2AF6-657F-4912-BCD3-61E4BCC0CEC5_zpsqmfe4uqh.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DD708549-15B2-4E29-AD6A-66091DCFA181_zps2i6sk7wj.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/F80B0209-C2BE-42B2-805F-B8FF313CADF1_zpsouxy2frz.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/91595ACE-A96C-47ED-80E4-D71475413131_zpstuvhfem2.jpg)
That's all for now - gotta get back to work on the fabbing this evening.
-
Looking good! You're making huge progress. :cheers: Keep it up and keep the updates coming.
-
Nice work...looks good and strong.
BR
-
Gotta keep posting updates.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/272F8D20-DB0B-4FEE-BF02-5EE46A1332F0_zpsknaaqkll.jpg)
Where the shifter cables will pass through the firewall...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/3E9862B3-E1B1-44A9-8A15-133C0B1318E1_zpstpycnrwd.jpg)
installing a mock-up block for the 1.5L engine, to work out details of the new intercooler and radiator setups....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/63FFDA42-D4F9-471E-955F-FEC2446DD05E_zpsrawbbr7i.jpg)
my first "successful" aluminum welds for the intercooler piping.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/30E69ADF-CA59-4E78-805A-02DA4C3A549E_zpsgskdlgxj.jpg)
new SA2015 helmet.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/998B53E2-DDAD-496A-82C4-9E288F3924FD_zpswvqjwtqw.jpg)
Old (probably older than me) tubing cutter...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/5B619E64-C269-4707-9173-7168AC0B66DB_zps61ikceb0.jpg)
Updated intercooler piping for the 1.5 engine.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C9FA8B0C-319B-41CC-AD49-5D4330088808_zps71ijsvxc.jpg)
Updated plumbing from the 1.5 engine to the new radiator...
That's all for now. More to come. Thanks for looking.
Steve.
-
Continuing to push forward over the last 2 nights....
We removed the engine, trans, radiator, etc. and prepared to shoot fresh paint in the engine bay.
I spread some seam sealer on the appropriate seams, smoothed it out with my fingers, and decided it was "good enough".
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/7CA752A0-227E-488B-B64F-44D5A7A9E9B4_zps7zcknjad.jpg)
Followed by shooting black epoxy primer in the bay and wheelwells. This was the first time I've used epoxy primer. I was shocked to see how thick the epoxy was before being "thinned" with activator.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B27F06FE-E0DE-426D-8C4E-5248B57B2E6C_zpsxxj475sa.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C11AAD57-DDFE-4129-8153-29C045A33A1E_zps3zpjrai0.jpg)
By that time of night, I decided not to stay up super late and shoot the color, that will have to wait for tonight.
Steve.
-
Steve, your aluminum welds look pretty good overall and are likely relatively strong but they appear to be dirty. You might want to use a little Scotch Brite after you've wire brushed the pipe ends and then wipe them down with acetone just before welding them. You'll end up with a much better looking and performing weld.
Pete
-
Thank you, Peter!
I'm a complete novice when it comes to figuring out the welder settings and material prep for aluminum. I'll try scotchbrite on my next attempt.
I used a combination of a wire brush and some rubbing alcohol on a rag on this first batch of welds.
Thanks again,
Steve.
-
Steve:
Might want to bump up the argon a little bit say 15 to 20 and use a #8 cup to cover the weld pool better. If the filler rod gets in and out of the argon shield you will get crude in the weld bead. Also the weld bead will look and act different, like a film that is not shiny from the contamination being introduced by the rod that gets exposed to air.
Looks great. Enjoy your posts.
BR
-
Alcohol doesn't have the oomph to do a good job of degreasing. Acetone does the best job followed by lacquer thinner. The acetone wins by far. Just don't leave the top off. you'll be looking for another can. It also happens to be the solvent to use when you're working with fiberglass.
Pete
-
Thanks, guys.
I'll pick up a fresh can of Acetone on the way home tonight. The old one seems to be empty.
I'll also crank up the Ar flow a bit and try a bigger cup size. Thanks for those tips!
Steve.
-
Steve:
I am no certified welder by any means but I have noticed as I weld aluminum more and my coordination skills improve between my torch hand and my filler rod hand I can use the smaller cups. The two things when I started that made for a large scrape pile, too much heat and letting the filler rod get out of the argon flow.
I found on the polished aluminum you have to give a good acetone cleaning. There must be something the polishing compound leaves on the aluminum.
BR
-
Polishes can leave a residue. You may also be dealing with a clear anodize. That's a dye that's actually penetrated into the surface of the metal. It can be chemically removed using some really nasty stuff or removed with grinding. When you're welding what you know is clean aluminum keep raising the gas flow until you get a clear puddle. Any grey or dull on the puddle is an indication of oxidization.
Pete
-
....learning by the day. :cheers:
For the next Al welds (on the 2 liter engine setup), I will make sure that any clear anodizing and/or polishing compounds are completely removed and cleaned to bare aluminum before striking an arc.
As always - thank you very much!
Steve.
-
Another day, another update:
I shot the under-hood color last night. In keeping with my belief that "You get what you pay for", I used a $10 Harbor Freight spray gun....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/215B7D3A-CEF3-4FFB-9EFC-0DAF1625DFFC_zpsnaqpizft.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/55750D5F-209D-4A89-9AD8-81A6BCD2E4C4_zpsqtpejla8.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/A714B490-08AA-4B95-828B-BF649455205E_zpsxnisuzlw.jpg)
...I'll be back onto engine & transmission assembly tonight, after cleaning up the garage.
Steve.
-
Good choice of paint, Steve.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
-
For $10, it doesn't pay to clean it up and reuse it.
-
For $10, it doesn't pay to clean it up and reuse it.
You've got that right!
Steve.
-
More updates.....
I received a package from Goran Lindgren (Dieselmeken.se), which included a freshly tuned, re-curved injection pump for my 1.5 engine, along with a whole bunch of Dieselmeken swag (t-shirts, decals, hoodie, coffee cups, sunglasses, hats)....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C80F8EF7-D4FC-49BD-AC70-8618F39F6A7C_zpsxt2k0nny.jpg)
I can now be fully decked out from head to toe in Dieselmeken accoutrement.
My wife and children gave me this "Bubba Keg" for Father's Day, which I promptly adorned with a Dieselmeken.se decal.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CD30DFE3-3331-4180-A8DA-E694618CA77A_zpswdx4s2hu.jpg)
Somehow, I managed to upload a photo of this container of fruit and berries. Since I uploaded it, I figured that I had better show everyone....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/AA98FA8F-1452-4035-9465-CDA1BB708E6A_zpsciap5zw8.jpg)
Then, on to the serious work of the day, which involved fabricating a scattershield for the 2 liter / 6 speed combo. If this part of the scattershield is pointed towards the ground, then the entire vehicle is most likely upside down....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/7957DF9D-E679-4072-ACC5-84DC00E4E914_zpsdsgypxrt.jpg)
and last but certainly not least, I started trying to figure out how to get the turbo outlet fittings to work in combination with the turbo housing...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/8BA9CFA4-8925-421A-8A67-BD1796D8AF64_zpsjmuwegiy.jpg)
With a little bit of TIG welding, I think this setup will work just fine!
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/39B9F2D4-8FC1-44E1-A54A-DE02B9813EB5_zpstzqxjuxb.jpg)
That's all, folks.
STeve.
-
Progress continued last night, and 2 friends and I completed additional fabrication work on the scattershield, as well as bleeding the clutch slave cylinder / throwout bearing, installing the clutch and PP, and bolting the engine to the trans.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/7DF1F280-C68C-438A-A5B7-DFBEE3718FB6_zps8hutbrak.jpg)
-
OK, way too much organization, Steve!
John
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Steve, I just zoomed in a couple of clicks and - GeeZ, man, are you frickin' crazy? I see a column labeled "Cost" or something. What possessed you to think that there's going to be something good about knowing how much you've spent?
Leave no traces -- way safer. . . :roll:
-
Sage advice.
-
Tell no one and deny, deny, deny!!!!! if caught. :evil:
-
This I agree with completely---even to the point of self deception---I very seldom ever write just one check to pay for something.
-
Self deception for the cost to build and campaign a race car is a practiced art, Sparky, and I have a PhD in it. It is a skill set that most polaticians posses and comes in quite handy when the significant other randomly asks how much you have spent on racing. My pat answer is far less than she thinks.
John
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I never worry about how much racing costs... it is all paid for by a friend of mine.... Mr. Visa... :-D :cheers:
-
I can certainly hide columns of the spreadsheet, but since I have 2 at least 2 other parties with financial ties to the team (King, Hake, and Menendez, LLC), for purposes of the LLC, I need to keep track of the duckets.
It can be demoralizing, but when I go to tell Mr. King and Mr. Hake that we need more money, it's nice to be able to show them where the last $$$$$$$$$ went.
Steve.
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Well, yeah, there's that way of seeing it, but come on, you know how it is for much of the world's racers. I was fortunate (?) in that Nancy also raced - and understood the costs involved.
Understood - or tolerated? I think I don't want to delve into it any farther. . . :dhorse:
-
"Progress" - if you can call it that, continues.
Over the weekend, we pickup up a well-loved Ford Aerostar van to use as a runabout on the salt. This van is going to get the Sublime Green treatment before SpeedWeek:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/A457C5D6-9C31-4236-A475-410727567ECA_zpszjmygkqn.jpg)
Then, last night we installed the 2 liter drivetrain, which should remain installed until SpeedWeek.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/6DB90545-4954-4A9F-B80A-B59C0C4DAF47_zpsntzb1htk.jpg)
There is plenty of work still to be done, but having the engine & trans bolted in place is a significant milestone for this project.
Steve.
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I see you have a head start on the "Bonneville Loctite" department with your van. (rust) :cheers:
-
I see you have a head start on the "Bonneville Loctite" department with your van. (rust) :cheers:
Oh yes - direct from Indiana.
-
Welcome to the trusty-rusty van world. Clean & cover the electrical connections on the trans with silicone spray, it will save you a lot of heartache.
Sid.
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Once upon a time a racer from way up north thought he'd done enough to protect the understuff in his truck. And then, surprise one day the next spring when his transfer case went kaflooey 'cause it had no fluid in it.
Seems a hunk o' salt must have got crammed into a crevice or something way up there - and slowly ate through the aluminum and allowed the fluid to escape to freedom.
I say again: The best way to clean the salt is to park the vehicle is a fast-moving stream slightly deeper than the vehicle is tall. Return in a few days.
Back to you and the Aerostar, Steve. I spent lotsa time in them there vehicles - stories to tell. . . :roll:
-
Welcome to the trusty-rusty van world. Clean & cover the electrical connections on the trans with silicone spray, it will save you a lot of heartache.
Sid.
Good tip, Sid!
thanks,
Steve
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OK - time is getting short now. I'll just throw up some pics of progress over the weekend....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DC4D16FF-584E-410F-9D8D-6226C646BFE2_zps55d1kib8.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/5549F918-5CC5-4BB8-A99F-572E287F83A7_zpsds8kjemt.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/FDB004A2-4C81-4714-9F37-81E0658849CC_zpsdjwtlvcu.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/E7BEC505-34E0-4F7B-BF69-E823E72A81F7_zpsso4ikzhn.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/99D3B302-40AB-46EF-B58F-41F5CB67A2BF_zpszprgkfat.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B76AB3C1-C467-4B82-8686-F4E4E2A962FD_zpsc3nu0ytu.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/05788533-3ADF-4567-B87B-17E85CD96661_zpslsjnurbp.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/10F72510-3650-49AF-B3DC-D0B56AB9C4CB_zpsg20xnvoz.jpg)
That's most of my weekend.
-
That shade of green looks a lot like my zinc chromate primer, Steve. :-)
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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That's a sturdy looking weld Steve. Are you using a back purge? It really adds to the quality of the weld.
Pete
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No back purge on that weld, Pete. "Some Day" I will get myself a back-purge setup, and maybe some more neat welding stuff.
For now, I'm just trying to get everything done on time to show up at Speed Week with a running, driving race truck.
...and a lime green support van.
Steve.
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Lime disease suits you well Steve! :-D :-o :-D
-
Steve:
Looks good. Stainless is my favorite to weld...once I learned to use the right heat.
Keep thrashing.
BR
-
No back purge on that weld, Pete. "Some Day" I will get myself a back-purge setup, and maybe some more neat welding stuff.
For now, I'm just trying to get everything done on time to show up at Speed Week with a running, driving race truck.
...and a lime green support van.
Steve.
Back purge is simple. Put a T piece in your hose and buy a box of latex gloves. Check out Vince Roman at Burns Stainless. He has video. You won't be sorry. :cheers:
-
Thanks for the latex glove and "T" advice. I'll have to give that a try next time around.
However, there was no welding yesterday. Last night was spent on fixing the A/C, and advanced body work for the Aerostar...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C9133F38-5395-428E-BA77-206EC4006B85_zps4zzvviuq.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/CD428291-C39E-4811-B3CB-8D766F10E56F_zps2qsvslxa.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/ADF49819-38AB-42C7-9B96-2C0BF684393E_zpsapodjxvo.jpg)
She's just about ready for the Oakland Roadster Show now.
Steve.
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I remember fixing my loud exhaust...kept getting tickets, with cut up beer cans and bailing wire. Steve I think I qualify for your body work crew!
BR
-
I hearken to the days of metal Hills Bros. coffee cans being cut and trimmed to be wrapped around the pipe, then muffler clamps to hold it there. We went high-zoot, no doubt! :roll:
-
Good move using the license plates.
You may have just started a trend.
Rampage Rust Buster. :cheers: :cheers:
Hey Steve, are you getting time to watch Le Tour?.
-
I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that the green van with the license plate rocker panels does what it needs to do for the week. It may be up for sale immediately after that.
I have been finding a little time to watch LeTour, normally late at night as I'm settling in before sleep. How about you?
Regarding the "big" controversy - I do not think that Peter Sagan should have been DQ'ed. Relegated for the day - perhaps, but not DQ'ed. That decision by the judges was completely arbitrary in my estimation. Those are the fastest guys in the world, all fighting for position and first place. They make their livings sprinting for the line and finding gaps where there are none.
Steve.
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I love the Gangrene Van Steve but you need to lose the self tapping screws in the licence plates & change to pop rivets so you don't F--k somebody's $800 tire on the salt.
Sid.
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I agree with you on the pop rivets!
Will remove the screws and replace with rivets one at a time!
Steve.
-
Still pushing forward (one piece at a time) on multiple fronts.
I picked up the 1.5L block from the machine shop on Friday @ lunchtime....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DDE10EA6-BD68-42B3-8242-B1BBCA6047A6_zpslcncfvif.jpg)
Then promptly set it aside to get back to work on the intercooler piping, brake system, and fuel system for the 2 liter....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/AACA455A-CAED-4283-A332-F477AF57718F_zpslqvouk87.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/9DD4CBDA-FD2E-4DC5-984E-91569560FE6B_zpsyjkjh9ak.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/76036790-733A-42D5-9A65-ED13DFF8C42E_zps9oqr9gx6.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/A67B40B5-97A8-42B5-B940-10335B91600B_zpsfuzwbtwn.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DEB71D89-6120-4977-9F84-4768624CBEFE_zpsodcwgidl.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/FBBAD053-D489-4A14-99A9-EFFBBA8DF2BA_zps7jyhoz6m.jpg)
-
Crunch time is here - it's "All hands on deck" for the final push. Got my dad in on the action. Got my son in on the action. Got my friends and neighbors in on the action..... It's all asses and elbows from here on out....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/840DDD8C-19DF-418F-93A1-BC71ACA11078_zpsgf6ykar1.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/2BDB67A6-758A-43A8-A36D-788B966EF8F3_zpstkyl7zlw.jpg)
We had a short family vacation thrown in ( NOT MY BOAT)...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/C720A261-CC4C-4191-A64E-18B3B579F53A_zpsfqze8f4w.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/3CCDD22D-3A11-4E8B-8C38-607709E8AAC0_zpszultjqra.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/31D4F8A6-17DC-430A-8427-CA88F479A35D_zpsczuhm5xb.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/A234BA28-76DA-4D1D-BE13-A5F5BE0334FA_zps0r5q0miv.jpg)
There's still plenty of work to be done. It WILL get done, but there won't be much spare time between now and departure time for SW.
Steve.
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Any post Speedweek update?
-
Any post Speedweek update?
Carnage
-
Wait for Steve to catch his breath & he'll tell the story, it's a long one.
Sid.
-
The short story is that we are home safely, and we all had a fantastic time. :cheers:
No new records were set, but we did get a new driver through Rookie Orientation and 3 or 4 passes. Best speed of something like 133 on a 135.003 record. We were on the salt early every morning, and stayed late every evening.
We had problems with both engines (1.5L and 2.0L), but nothing completely catastrophic.
The long story is much, much, much longer.
Catch you later,
Steve.
-
Are you ready to tell the story?
-
We recorded video and audio for an hour-long Podcast about our trip to Speedweek. It was broadcast live on FB, but hasn't yet been uploaded to YouTube. When it's on YouTube, I'll post a link here.
Most "normal" folks will find the podcast dry and boring, but the audience here may enjoy it. Let me see if I can post a link to the FB broadcast....
I'm not sure if this will work or not:
https://www.facebook.com/ProjectSyncro/
Steve.
-
Is that going to tell the marathon story on the salt with the engine issues, the engine changes, the used engine out of Utah.......?
You guys busted a$$ from what I could see & I was kinda busy!
Sid.
-
Sid:
The podcast should tell as much of the story that will fit in 1 hour (including lessons learned). We had a fantastic time even though the racing gods did not smile upon us. We just weren't as prepared as we should have been for a very ambitious plan to run 2 engines and 2 transmissions, neither of which was fully sorted out.
It was a pleasure to pit alongside you and Burton's team - I think there was a good synergy / camraderie all week. You have a great team!
Steve.
-
I listened to the whole thing but it cut off as you started to discuss the upcoming plans.
-
I haven't had any luck gettting my buddy to upload the podcast to YouTube, so I'll get back to sharing the plan here:
for 2018, we want to run at the Arkansas Mile, and at Bonneville (not decided whether for Speed Week or WofS yet).
The plan is to chase the G/DT record. I'm not planning to rebuild the H engine before next year.
To that end, we have removed the drivetrain from the Rampage, and will methodically disassemble, inspect, and rebuild the engine....
A few pics of the removal are shown here:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/5657F515-E80A-4C92-9D20-ECE8EA8A32DA_zpsfmdlvhz9.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/62C2BD88-2000-4266-9E48-2BC17D0B9758_zpsaubdglst.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/59389BEF-FDF0-410E-91ED-2AABE175D06E_zpsn3fgi96z.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/04587345-9B15-4DC8-B467-E38017E6DD24_zpsnumlrrvs.jpg)
Next step = careful disassembly of the short block.
Thanks for looking.
Steve.
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Let's see if this works.....
https://www.facebook.com/ProjectSyncro/videos/865405506943067/
Steve
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Nope.
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YEP!
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Works on my Windows machine. 8-)
Mike
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After a short delay, I get a black box with this text:
Unavailable
This video can't be embedded.
Watch on Facebook ยท Learn More
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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I had to nudge it along a couple of times but I did get to the end which was a little before what I imagine is the end. That was fun to listen to and I've been on those programs. The most important thing you should have learned is complete all the work in the shop before you leave. It's never easier to complete the work at the race and getting there a day earlier doesn't mean anything if you can't perform.
That's a hard earned lesson that I've learned over several ugly experiences.
Good luck in your recoveries. :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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We pitted right next to Steve with Burton's liner. Like Steve, Burton & the guys had just run out of time to finish the liner at home so we spent the first four days finishing it on the salt & Goran had his Dieselmeken hands in that too before we were done. I knew some of Steve's dramas but we were pretty busy dealing with our own but Burton did manage to Two-Club it on the goat track.
The podcast played fine for me.
Sid.
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Glad to hear that at least "most" folks were able to see & hear the podcast.
Summary - we (I) made a plan that was a bit too ambitious for 2017, running out of time to get everything sorted and tested before Speed Week.
We had a great time and plenty of adventures at Speed Week. Once there, we spent our time as wisely as we could, and had the best help available anywhere on the planet (I can't vouch for other planets). We spent a lot of time wrenching, parts chasing, and testing. It was a tremendously good time!
Ultimately, although we were very close to getting a new driver into the record book (I think 133 on a 135 record), we couldn't get that part of the plan done, and we did not have success with the other engine & trans combination, either. We managed to make a lot of new friends, which cannot have a price put on it.
For 2018, we are going to maintain a singular focus, and put all efforts into achieving the goal of maximizing the performace of our G/DT effort.
Steve.
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All Righty then.... back to work on the Rampage, pulling the 2 liter engine apart to see what needs to be done for 2018.
Most of this Mercedes engine is pretty typical, although it does have a few particular "Mercedes" features, like this rotary camplate on the front of the injection pump drive sprocket:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B7394D63-9DA0-4DF2-AC07-5E8958793304_zps4dqxrpso.jpg)
In this case, the bad news is shown in the roller bearing follower that is driven by that camplate (this bearing looks BAD):
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/0F68145B-B023-4FE9-AB0E-4CDE435D5908_zpsahgai5kp.jpg)
For those of you who might not know, MB is fond of chain drives and sliding tensioners:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/D1B9692F-06A3-443C-B264-D6DE25638A65_zpsf5dlnchj.jpg)
The last sad picture for now is this milkshake which was drained out of the oil pan:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/F2802A0F-082F-4C01-ACAE-67C7FA82EF0F_zpsgoxrmm12.jpg)
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All righty then.... a little more disassembly took place, and I'm ready to drop off the block at AMT Racing engines for a thorough cleaining, magnaflux inspection, and having the deck of the block machined the absolute minimum amount to clean up the surface finish.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/EFC5E0B4-619F-4484-BB83-9ACE6AB89A5D_zpsirbpgemv.jpg)
Rods and pistons are ready for another round in 2018.
I "think" the block is fine, except for the very rough surface finish on the top deck surface.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/EF5FBF8F-6E73-497C-8D87-6C1AD95C63E3_zpsuvhfsvl4.jpg)
Steve.
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New adventures.... learning a few things about running this CNC mill (from someone who knows what they are doing), and making a torque plate for the OM604 block.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/11E87BE1-1667-4B48-9E36-DD24B74C2197_zpsexn01gjq.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/51445F3A-1852-4836-8742-CF95796670A0_zpshpxcedfa.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B41D854A-440A-4AE3-BC59-1644286956DE_zpsln8ykc7p.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B1A8A097-CF5D-469E-96F9-EE0629E8D0A6_zpsktxttq3i.jpg)
I'll drop the torque plate off at the "real" machine shop on Wednesday afternoon, so they can get to work on the 2018 version of the G/DT engine. There are some other guys out there chasing this same record, so I really need to put my best foot forward in 2018.
Steve.
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Feeling good as progress is being made.....
The block has been decked, the cylinders have been straightened out, pistons have been sent out for high-tech coating, and the piston rings have been checked for fit.
Everything is looking good (much better than the non-flat, super rough deck, tapered bores, etc) from the original "machine work" performed by a previous shop.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/D6D4E9EB-AD23-47D9-B80F-7A69A29D6D0D_zpsvjggagp3.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/F0261019-4E3C-4707-85BD-ADB1BC91B541_zpsdeflb1wb.jpg)
The plan is to focus, focus, focus on this 2 liter effort for Bonneville this summer.
Steve.
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I am in the same mode . Right after Nov. Elmo the car came apart for upgrades . I run
I am doing similar upgrades with the '40 bantam , I run T/O so whatever I do is good , car is to small to run Roadster class .. You are running T/O anyway until you set a record !! I went from single 1 1/4" SU carb to 2 , new 4/2/1 exhaust with inner coating , divided siamese intake to divided intake ports , freshened up valve job , new rings , belly pan from radiator to rear springs , would have gone further with more $$ . Windscreen , inner moons on front , blocking radiator 70% at grille , a little more caster , made rod bearings and pistons a little slicker .. STEVE :cheers: :cheers:
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Okey dokey....... :-D
Time to break out the wallet again, and start buying the required goodies to put this thing back together.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/6EACA30F-0615-42C2-BACB-9FFF6924FA15_zpsd3zxco2b.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/D7544224-07F1-4C35-97B6-C7AACFE2EE94_zps2zfg45ow.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B11A3E36-A5AB-414E-847E-C116F6B8D483_zpsdqerkrgx.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/8BDC488C-4B9B-481A-B4F4-E0197B17659B_zpssl71las0.jpg)
In all, I feel MUCH better about this engine after having it apart, having the deck surfaced, the bores honed, and going back together carefully.
I can almost smell the salt in the air.
Steve.
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The main cap bolts are an odd duck with full threads, are they a torque to yield one-timer?
Sid.
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Good eye on those bolts, Sid. They are definitely an odd duck. While not true "torque to yield", there is an overall length tolerance for them. Mine were within spec, but after your comment, I decided that it was better to be safe than sorry.
A call to ARP to check availability of main studs with M11 x 1.5 pitch threads revealed a set intended for Chrysler 2.2L engines fit the bill.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/977A567D-35AB-4E86-87BE-11761A72B05A_zpsmkdxylxw.jpg)
These studs will be nice insurance for peace of mind, if nothing else....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/0DCB7714-AC2A-4EF7-A3C4-267816729810_zps5vsu9xkl.jpg)
I've also been busy "going through" the head, lapping all the valves and giving all parts a good once-over.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/67B8E2B3-C721-485A-B953-61AAABDE16DE_zpszq379r1f.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/48D3EFE9-3AF5-40F3-AC07-A8787BE8077F_zpsixykclzl.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/0C268F3A-C9C7-4654-AF4A-AB04683E66BD_zpsqantfynw.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/60D6D354-92A2-4D2E-8F8A-3838B67D217A_zpsbnudvlh7.jpg)
Next up, a freshly rebuilt and tuned injection pump is on it's way from Sweden.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/EC15BF70-9286-420A-800D-8A2F53D49F4B_zpsnosyvl4e.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/637E8923-CFA3-45EF-ACDA-FA02B7F30D96_zps5zre55nw.jpg)
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While I'm poking my nose in your $hit Steve..... do the main caps stand up to big boost on these things? They look kinda thin like they could use a girdle bar. I'd hate to see you run over the crank.
Is Goran coming back this year?
Sid.
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Pick away, Sid. We should be OK with the plans for this engine and no girdle. There is a pretty well established "recipe" for the OM60x series of engines which can give approximately 100HP per hole on stock main caps.
At this point, I'll just keep my fingers crossed that the bottom of mine will hold together long enough to be competitive against the record.
Steve.
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This "might" be the last good opportunity to photograph this engine before it's installed in the chassis again.....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/B9D67D33-5BF3-4692-A1B7-6CF9F45097A9_zpsnunghnb6.jpg)
Steve
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Are you ready for Speed Week?
Nick
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We will not be attending Speed Week 2018. We will be at WOS in September, however.
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I'll be looking forward top seeing you and your little green truck there, Steve!
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Thanks, Neil.
All the pieces are coming together, but as you know, there's never any "extra" time....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/10709D9F-BE57-46B7-8C26-ACB6DCC4FF82_zpsa4gefdvr.jpg)
I have a newly fabbed and installed receiver hitch / push bar / parachute mount coming together for WOS
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/39E09104-B218-402B-8C70-4BCD2F1D683B_zpsdcfltflv.jpg)
This was taken after the K-frame was bolted and welded in place, along with a 2" square receiver mount....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/5131BDA9-254B-40B0-BA10-A4196DDC0D54_zpss4948tzw.jpg)
...and the tacked-together basis for the push bar/chute mount
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/54C82507-FEDE-4380-A001-3AEC031F5397_zpskz3rqpfd.jpg)
We will also have hand numbered and lettered stickers available:
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/A9C78932-5B1C-4C58-8394-981A3D854739_zpskoecngca.jpg)
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Congrats on the Speedweek 19' Speeds! I'm listening back to the broadcast this week finally and catching up on what happened after we left.
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Congrats on the Speedweek 19' Speeds! I'm listening back to the broadcast this week finally and catching up on what happened after we left.
Thank you! Even though conditions were not great, we had an excellent driver this year (not me), who was able to get the truck down the course, finding the best possible salt, without blowing up the engine.
How many days until Speed Week 2020? Preparations have already begun at my house.
Steve.
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Just wanted to take this opportunity to post an update and put it in writing:
We are working on an "F" engine for Speed Week 2021. Will probably bring either the G or H engine along as a backup if needed.
There - I feel better now that the words have been typed out.
Steve.
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Steve, I see you got a few records at Speedweek. Congratulations!!
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Thanks - Yes, we managed to set 2 records. Actually, setting the record in the same class twice, but that's just details.
Perhaps the best "record" we set for ourselves was having a fully functional race vehicle at the end of the week, instead of a pile of smoldering parts. It felt very good to drive the race truck back onto the trailer before heading for home.
Steve.
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Been following this build for a while, but I guess I missed what your records were. What are they? Great job!
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Records currently held at Bonneville are H/DT at 135.003 mph, and G/DT at 171.992 mph.
As always, there's more speed left in it (until the engine lets go, then it's time to back off a little).....
Steve.
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I hadn't known about them either. I thought I'd followed it here for years.
Congratulations!