Landracing Forum Home
May 25, 2012, 09:54:15 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
BACK TO LANDRACING.COM HOMEPAGE
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Pressurized Water System  (Read 1200 times)
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Mutley
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4


« on: June 11, 2011, 04:47:40 PM »

I am looking into building a pressurized water system for my car would like to hear how some you guys have done it. What are somethings I should look out for?  -M
Logged
maguromic
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 1366



WWW
« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2011, 05:32:07 PM »

How much pressure do you want to run? Tony
Logged

“If you haven’t seen the future, you are not going fast enough”
Racerboy
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Age: 58
Location: Cypress. Calif.
Posts: 42


Ken Pike


« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2011, 05:37:29 PM »

Just a few questions

What engine, and what class
What type of water punp (electrical or mechanical)
Radiator or water tank (and what size tank)
Logged

Long Live the Comp Coupe's
Mutley
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4


« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2011, 06:58:02 PM »

I am going to be running in C comp coupe with a SBC.  I want to use a radiator with a header tank and run 35-40 lbs of pressure. -M
Logged
krusty
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 149


« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2011, 08:42:07 AM »


 Take a look here    http://www.crracing.com/custom-built-products/pressurized-cooling-systems   and here    http://www.crracing.com/tech/cooling-installation-details/using-pressurized-colling-system  for information on high-pressure cooling systems as used in many professional series' engines. Remember that your radiator, accumulator, and hoses/fittings need to be rated to withstand the pressure you decide to run at. I have used this system in both Cup cars and LSR and it works very well.    vic
Logged
maguromic
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 1366



WWW
« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2011, 02:18:53 PM »

To add to Vic’s comments, you wont find a cap much higher than 30 pounds, and then your only option is to build a system like Vic suggests.  One of the things you want to keep in mind us the fin count on the radiator
 
In my experience the more fin count per square inch the better.  I have found that 17-23 fin count, with 17 being the minimum I would use works.  Without the extra fin count for support, anything lower you run the risk of core degradation. On our RMR we will be running closer to 50 pounds and on my neighbors GC Firebird, we will be running a radiator with 200 fins per inch and pressurizing to 40 pounds.

If you set up the system properly you could use different water pressure as part of your strategy to tune the motor for optimal performance.  Tony
Logged

“If you haven’t seen the future, you are not going fast enough”
Mutley
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4


« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2011, 07:07:44 PM »

Vic and Tony, thank you for the information.  cheers  It looks like its a little more involved than I thought. But then what isn't? -M
Logged
kiwi belly tank
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 160
Location: Lava Hot Springs Idaho
Posts: 469


« Reply #7 on: June 27, 2011, 10:53:44 PM »

Mutley, another way to it is to put a small radiator in a water tank, pressure the rad but not the tank. Gives you gobbs of cooling capacity.
  Sid.
Logged
Jonny Hotnuts
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1378



« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2011, 07:52:34 PM »

A sealed system will develop pressure when the water heats up and is metered by the PSI rating of the cap. If you want 30 psi, put a 30 psi cap on it and the water pressure in the system will make that a few seconds after the water temp reaches just over 100 degrees and starts to expand.

I have a 5 gallon air tank I use for my coolant tank with a 15 psi cap, no radiator and it pressurizes itself just fine.

I know some peeps will say I am wrong, and it is necessary to have the restriction of the radiator core to develop head pressure (and it will make a few pounds depending on the pump and restriction) the system does NOT need a radiator to develop its operating pressure. When the water heats up it will pressurize beyond the head pressure of the pump and wont care if there is a radiator, tank or other.

If for whatever reason you want to pre pressurize your system.....you would have to use pressurized water or you will be introducing air in the system.

~JH


« Last Edit: June 30, 2011, 08:12:46 PM by Jonny Hotnuts » Logged

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
manta22
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 73
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 547


What, me worry?


« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2011, 10:15:00 PM »

A sealed system will develop pressure when the water heats up and is metered by the PSI rating of the cap. If you want 30 psi, put a 30 psi cap on it and the water pressure in the system will make that a few seconds after the water temp reaches just over 100 degrees and starts to expand.

I have a 5 gallon air tank I use for my coolant tank with a 15 psi cap, no radiator and it pressurizes itself just fine.

I know some peeps will say I am wrong, and it is necessary to have the restriction of the radiator core to develop head pressure (and it will make a few pounds depending on the pump and restriction) the system does NOT need a radiator to develop its operating pressure. When the water heats up it will pressurize beyond the head pressure of the pump and wont care if there is a radiator, tank or other.

If for whatever reason you want to pre pressurize your system.....you would have to use pressurized water or you will be introducing air in the system.

~JH

JH;

You're not exactly wrong but your understanding is a bit incomplete; true, the coolant will develop a pressure in the cooling system that will be relieved by the pressure cap if it is allowed to reach a high enough temperature-- however, the thing about pressurizing the block & heads by the water pump is true, but that pressure is over & above the pressure in the radiator and pump inlet. So even higher pressure will be developed by the back pressure of a restriction.

Regards,   Neil  Tucson, AZ

Logged

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
hotrod
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 714


WWW
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2011, 10:37:24 PM »

Quote
If for whatever reason you want to pre pressurize your system.....you would have to use pressurized water or you will be introducing air in the system.

Not necessarily, if you use an air over water accumulator with a bladder, connected to the cooling system by a small diameter tubing. The system can be pressurized by airing up the bladder in the accumulator, but there is on water flow in the small diameter pressurization tube, so the accumulator never sees the high temperature water in the cooling system. Also if the system does burp a little water the make up water that the accumulator will push into the system will be cooler water than the circulating water helping to cool things off.

Basically the same configuration as the oil pressure accumulators like used in the accusump systems.

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2410

Larry
Logged

Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.16 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!


Google visited last this page May 17, 2012, 08:38:19 PM