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Author Topic: The Maxton Monster  (Read 15760 times)
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Captthundarr
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« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2011, 01:05:59 PM »

I'm getting ready to buy the cage material.

 Has anyone used Competition Engineering stuff? http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5709255.html
[/quote

This cage set up is legal  using the  1 3/4  .134 tubing,,, Dont order the 1 5/8.. ask them if it is DOM or EW tubing
I prefer DOM... but at .134 thickness and a good TIG welder all will be fine with this kit.

Charles

Wish I had seen this sooner! Why not the 1-5/8?

edit: Nevermind! I just read the rules for the other classes, instead of just the one I'm building for.

Confussed, 3.B.1 Roll Cage  Line #4 "requirements for cage type roll sturcture in all other classes is 1 5/8" x .120 (.134) wall". Don't get me wrong, 1 3/4" is heavier but why not 1 5/8"
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Live,Laugh, Love /  Jack Scratch Racing /ECTA   
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C/GALT 137.65 Ohio Mile check that 144.12 2013, AA/GALT 159.34 Ohio Mile 2014. B/GALT 180.577 RECORD 6/15
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« Reply #16 on: January 01, 2011, 02:43:50 PM »

After re-reading it, that's a good question.

Charles, is the 1.75" so much stronger, that you wouldn't take a chance with the 1-5/8?
« Last Edit: January 01, 2011, 02:48:06 PM by 38flattie » Logged

With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

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redhotracing
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« Reply #17 on: January 04, 2011, 07:47:55 PM »

Put it this way... Joe Timney told me that 1.75" .134 got worn down halfway
@ B-ville by a car that flipped and slid on its' top for a mile or so... He only
uses 1.75" .134 or bigger now. I'm rebuilding my cage with the aforementioned
size, up from a 1.625" .120 wall. Bigger, thicker, better. Just my .02
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Luke- Winston Salem, NC
Loring 2 Club- 201.252 (2010)
Ohio 2 Club- 203.712 (2013)
38flattie
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« Reply #18 on: January 04, 2011, 08:51:22 PM »

Put it this way... Joe Timney told me that 1.75" .134 got worn down halfway
@ B-ville by a car that flipped and slid on its' top for a mile or so... He only
uses 1.75" .134 or bigger now. I'm rebuilding my cage with the aforementioned
size, up from a 1.625" .120 wall. Bigger, thicker, better. Just my .02

I just wondered- I had just ordered 1-5/8 .134 wall a few days earlier. Sure makes sense now!
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With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

http://www.flatcadracing.org/
Cajun Kid
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« Reply #19 on: January 04, 2011, 11:24:29 PM »

I used   1 3/4 x .120  DOM.... and lots of it... center windshield to dash bar (Earnhart Bar) as well as 3rd roof bar, and Petty Bar and tubular 1" x .120 DOM gussets at every tube junction. over 24 of them.

So I am OK with  1 3/4 x .120 DOM   ...    1 5/8 x .134  DOM would also be very strong,,, the wall thickness is a plus,
However,,I am not sure which is stronger   1 5/8 x .134 DOM  or  1 3/4 x .120 DOM.... Huh

Cage and Chassis construction and design also have a lot to do with it, not just the differance in material.

Charles
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« Reply #20 on: January 04, 2011, 11:33:14 PM »

Thanks for the explanation!

I ordered an Art Morrison 10 point funny car style cage, that GH is going to install. I saw a lot of pictures of your cage, and that's a lot of tubing! Looks great!

Your car is far faster than mine will ever be, and I've got far more cage than the rules car for.You obviously agree though, after looking at your cage, that we can't be to safe!
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With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

http://www.flatcadracing.org/
Captthundarr
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« Reply #21 on: January 11, 2011, 10:28:08 PM »

I used   1 3/4 x .120  DOM.... and lots of it... center windshield to dash bar (Earnhart Bar) as well as 3rd roof bar, and Petty Bar and tubular 1" x .120 DOM gussets at every tube junction. over 24 of them.

So I am OK with  1 3/4 x .120 DOM   ...    1 5/8 x .134  DOM would also be very strong,,, the wall thickness is a plus,
However,,I am not sure which is stronger   1 5/8 x .134 DOM  or  1 3/4 x .120 DOM.... Huh

Cage and Chassis construction and design also have a lot to do with it, not just the differance in material.

Charles


Thanks for the input Charles, I stuck my head in the Stude at Maxton for some ideas.  Great cage, aint nuthun wrong with too much safety. For a given leagnth both sizes are comp.
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Live,Laugh, Love /  Jack Scratch Racing /ECTA   
Amy Hartman-Driver, Frank Hartman-everthing else.
C/GALT 137.65 Ohio Mile check that 144.12 2013, AA/GALT 159.34 Ohio Mile 2014. B/GALT 180.577 RECORD 6/15
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« Reply #22 on: January 12, 2011, 08:38:51 AM »

We used 1 3/4 dia.  X 1/8 DOM on the drivers compartment of our lakester, because what if the change the Min requirements before you are finished?
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Captthundarr
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« Reply #23 on: January 12, 2011, 10:39:47 AM »

True dat.!!!
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Live,Laugh, Love /  Jack Scratch Racing /ECTA   
Amy Hartman-Driver, Frank Hartman-everthing else.
C/GALT 137.65 Ohio Mile check that 144.12 2013, AA/GALT 159.34 Ohio Mile 2014. B/GALT 180.577 RECORD 6/15
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« Reply #24 on: January 14, 2011, 04:33:18 PM »

Thanks for so many good  ideas.
So it seems that 1.75 is the way to go size wise. I decided not to go with the prefab cause the shipping was too much. I can buy the material locally but there seems to be a shortage of 1.75 tube bending dies( shops are all geard up for 1.625), so maybe I will just have to buy my Own.
Fred
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4-barrel Mike
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« Reply #25 on: January 14, 2011, 06:14:07 PM »

I have one of these in 1 5/8".  Pretty nice piece.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-3-4-Tubing-Tube-Bender-SandRail-Prerunner-Baja-/160425626006?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item255a1cc996

Mike
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Mike Kelly - PROUD owner of the V4F that powered the #1931 VGC to a 82.803 mph record in 2008!
Fheckro
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« Reply #26 on: January 25, 2011, 08:02:37 PM »

I know I said I was going to buy a tubing bender (and i am) ... so how in he double hockey sticks did i wind up with this!!! No self control!
come on Fred... focus

Jerico 4 speed/w .88 over drive.
used once by little old lady.
$1800


* jerico1.jpg (13.2 KB, 334x251 - viewed 189 times.)

* jerico2.jpg (11.14 KB, 331x245 - viewed 189 times.)
« Last Edit: January 25, 2011, 08:05:34 PM by Fheckro » Logged

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« Reply #27 on: January 30, 2011, 09:15:51 PM »

Today I Stripped out the interior and welded up all holes in the floor.
Also I removed the heater and blower motor and fabricated a plate cover the hole (see attached). I used the original bolt holes and sealed it with fire seal.

Yesterday I wired up my cutoff switch. I fabbed up a nice steel mounting bracket for the switch and had everything ready to go, then like a dumb Acura i
forgot to turn it off. This morning when I returned the battery was stone dead (It was already half dead) of course because the door was open all night and the lights are still connected tongue.
I am learning about coil cell batteries. They are very hard to charge from stone dead!

I talked to a local steel supplier and he quoted me  $116 for a twenty foot stick of 1.75x 0.125 DOM tubing.


* HeaterPlate1.jpg (46.3 KB, 720x431 - viewed 172 times.)

* Heaterplate2.jpg (49.56 KB, 720x431 - viewed 165 times.)
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« Reply #28 on: January 30, 2011, 09:19:02 PM »

 Doing  Cad modeling to get some ideas. Attached are pictures. I think this is what I will start with.
I may want to add more later. The forward tubes will connect to the front shock towers. I'm not sure about
the dash bar, It may have to move or curve cause I don't see how it's going to clear the steering column and everything.
Also, I Still need to get the seat so I can find the exact positions of the shoulder cross bar.  I want to add a bar that runs
down the back and under the seat. The cad model is not exact but is close to the dimensions that will be used.



Fred


* Cage 1.jpg (31.47 KB, 777x441 - viewed 170 times.)

* Cage 2.jpg (23.22 KB, 777x441 - viewed 154 times.)

* Cage 3.jpg (28.83 KB, 777x441 - viewed 148 times.)

* Cage 4.jpg (25.33 KB, 473x652 - viewed 160 times.)
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« Reply #29 on: March 14, 2011, 08:19:31 PM »

I guess I am not the best bloger. It has been a while but I have been making steady headway, albeit slow.
 I got distracted with the transmission. I found a "Monza" bell housing but the trans hole  needed to be re sized to fit the Jerico transmission. Th eMonza uses a cable throwout bearing so this particular bell housing is rare. I was able to find a local machinist to do the work on the barter system. So now I have a Jerico 4 speed and bell housing.
last month I was able to locate a clutch pedal and now that is all installed in the car and ready for duty. This week I scored a billet steel sfi approved
flywheel so i think all I am lacking is the clutch, throw out bearing and scatter shield.



* BellHousing1.jpg (41.83 KB, 720x431 - viewed 151 times.)

* JericoAndBell.jpg (46.27 KB, 720x431 - viewed 139 times.)
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