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Author Topic: The worlds fastest Weslake.....well maybe!  (Read 48367 times)
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Briz
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« Reply #75 on: January 24, 2012, 04:01:06 PM »

Phew! All sorted now.
Clearance with the cams set at 106 degrees is .075".
I'm comfortable with that.
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Nortonist 592
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« Reply #76 on: January 26, 2012, 12:52:25 AM »

Glad to hear that!!  Now you will be the worlds fastest Weslake!!!
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Get off the stove Grandad.  You're too old to be riding the range.
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« Reply #77 on: January 26, 2012, 06:02:46 AM »

Well maybe!! grin
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Briz
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« Reply #78 on: January 26, 2012, 03:38:30 PM »

Obviously I cant go to the Weslake dealer and get a gasket set for this engine!
On my own I think. So; a chunk of copper sheet off ebay and a days buggering about - much of it de-burring.
Made 6 of them.

Just gotta anneal them now.
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Nortonist 592
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« Reply #79 on: January 26, 2012, 05:37:58 PM »

What??!!  David hasn't got full sets on the shelf??  Whats the world coming to?

I was going to say earlier but decided against it.  My Weslake sheet says 98-102 deg.  I was told by an extremely knowledgeable Weslake tuner to use 112 deg.  I tried it but my Weslake didn't want to know that setting.  I backed it down 2 deg. at a time until I got to 106 deg.  Thats when it started to fly.  Hope it all works out for you.  Looking forward to seeing how it works.
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Get off the stove Grandad.  You're too old to be riding the range.
Briz
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« Reply #80 on: February 01, 2012, 07:32:52 AM »

Thanks Bill. Wow! 98 degrees really would be a lot of overlap!
Assembly finally gets started. Decided to have the pistons coated, thats why the top-ends still off.
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« Reply #81 on: February 02, 2012, 12:55:39 AM »

Briz, the diary does not say how you are going to anneal those gaskets.  It in the past I have had mixed success with annealing big copper gaskets with a torch.  Some hard spots remained.  Now I take them to a foundry and they put them in the big oven, heat them evenly, and do the quench.  The entire gasket is soft after they do it.
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Briz
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« Reply #82 on: February 03, 2012, 03:17:23 PM »

Did them with a torch WW. I'd struggle to find anyone with a furnace round here.
I had the tops of the liners O ringed, so if they're not soft enough the wire rings wont embed enough and there would be an observable gap between cylinder & gasket.
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peterdallan
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« Reply #83 on: February 03, 2012, 04:12:53 PM »

Hi Briz

What is the rake?

Looking good!

Peter
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Briz
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« Reply #84 on: February 03, 2012, 05:51:48 PM »

40 degrees Peter. If I remember right!

Got a bit stuck. Camcoat are V busy and I wont get the pistons back for at least another week. Lots I cant do with the topend still off.
I'll probably make a start on the wiring. With the Microsquirt ECU and the wideband setup, theres lots to do!
I saved the engine loom from an old Volvo I broke for parts a few years ago. It has ALL the connectors I need. Never throw anything away!
« Last Edit: February 03, 2012, 05:54:15 PM by Briz » Logged

wobblywalrus
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« Reply #85 on: February 04, 2012, 10:02:41 AM »

Briz, you have annealed your gaskets and this will not be an immediate help.  This is info for others.  Industrial furnaces are hard to find since almost everything is made somewhere else.  The art community uses gas furnaces for melting glass, baking pottery, and metal work.  A copper smith with a foundry in an art cooperative annealed a BSA head gasket for my old A-65.  He heated it evenly to a dull red and plonked it into water.

Please show some posts about setting up the squirt and wideband.
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beerbellykelly
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« Reply #86 on: February 06, 2012, 11:32:54 AM »

hey briz-
still following the build-got a small foundry here at my place if it helps-got a few melts going in next week when im back from ireland-

p.j. saltbeEFE
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Briz
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« Reply #87 on: February 06, 2012, 02:57:15 PM »

Cheers PJ. Probably sorted now. If I get a problem I'll give you a shout.

Its a good job I hadn't assembled the top-end; I'd forgotten the need for a temperature sensor.
Grabbed a twincam one and found a place on the back of the front head where it could go - there isn't a lot of spare material on these castings.


Some minor clearancing on the intake and its good to go.
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oz
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« Reply #88 on: February 06, 2012, 04:03:21 PM »

 Temperature sensor for what, if air will it not be influenced by your cylinder head temp,mine is further back on the intake the airbox in fact.If MAP sensor would it not be better on a common part of the intake so pressure is kinda balanced between both pots mine is linked through all 4 cylinders to the unit itself.
or is it the equivelent of my water temp sensor for an aircooled,just wondering.

Cheers Oz
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« Reply #89 on: February 06, 2012, 04:21:12 PM »

I saved the engine loom from an old Volvo I broke for parts a few years ago. It has ALL the connectors I need. Never throw anything away!

I worked for a guy who sold second hand parts from Volvos and Jaguars, there was a difference.Pretty much all the Volvo electrics went in the bin, why?..they were worthless because no-one needed to buy them, nothing ever went wrong with them,they were over engineered to the point of the ridiculous. I still have various bits and pieces, the patch bays were beautiful pieces of work.

The Jaguar stuff was different, it was sought after, for all the wrong reasons.
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