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Author Topic: Australian Belly Tank  (Read 1479681 times)
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grumm441
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« Reply #5040 on: April 10, 2016, 05:17:19 PM »

I'm trying to work out what you are doing to my rims in the picture Simon sent me
Were they a bit of a tight fit?
G
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Wazavudu Bellytank  Spirit of Sunshine Bellytank
Dr Goggles
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« Reply #5041 on: April 10, 2016, 06:26:31 PM »

I'm trying to work out what you are doing to my rims in the picture Simon sent me
Were they a bit of a tight fit?
G

yeah you could say that...........

They're always a little tight those hubs, we've cleaned up the inner edge of the race wheels, those trailer ones need to have the same treatment and we need to keep those hubs with a little coating of something to stop them getting that little rusting on them ..........what I was doing was putting a little pressure on them while some WD40 seeped in..then some judicious tapping on the baseplate of the jack and it let go..

SPANG!!!!!!


As you were.
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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/

Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.
kiwi belly tank
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« Reply #5042 on: April 11, 2016, 10:43:02 AM »

How are you hooking trans to pinion, can you go to a Greek coupler or a flat flange setup & cheat the engine/trans back a skosh?
  Sid.
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #5043 on: April 11, 2016, 04:41:36 PM »

How are you hooking trans to pinion, can you go to a Greek coupler or a flat flange setup & cheat the engine/trans back a skosh?
  Sid.

Good question Sid-en-eeee,

Herr Grumm has mentioned the possibility of using something like the Datto tailshaft with flanges, going Greek could be good but I'm not sure sure we could muster the Drachmas for that.


* Datto tailshaft.JPG (13.82 KB, 500x359 - viewed 125 times.)
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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/

Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.
Dr Goggles
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« Reply #5044 on: April 11, 2016, 05:00:38 PM »

However.......

there is this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GM-Powerglide-Male-Coupler-Long-Suit-27-Spline-/321930361862?hash=item4af48b7c06:g:BMcAAOSwaNBUjogS

that would get us there.... and being click and collect from Woolies we could get some "milk" while we're there cheers


But, I can't seem to find what we'd need at the other end......
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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/

Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.
kiwi belly tank
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« Reply #5045 on: April 11, 2016, 06:31:27 PM »

I had B&J custom build me some Greek couplers for my 7.5 10 bolts in the liner so they are set up to do them now.
Ok, I just called Mike to check & the longest 32 spline TH400 coupler he makes is 7" total length & they are $120 each, part # B&J-80. The custom 7.5 10 bolt female are $150 each & they are a no mod bolt up. Part number B&J-SID.
  Sid.
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awelker
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« Reply #5046 on: April 11, 2016, 09:59:57 PM »

I used Mark Williams couplers when I switched to a new transmission. Good selection of applications plus you get blanks you can modify as you need. They also have the components to make up short driveshafts with the same gear couplers.

http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshaftSolid.aspx?CategoryID=207

- Andy
« Last Edit: April 11, 2016, 10:07:54 PM by awelker » Logged

Dr Goggles
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« Reply #5047 on: April 12, 2016, 01:28:41 AM »

Boom!

I'm comin' back here, you blokes are real helpful.....


No, seriously that was great, that will make all the difference if we can use a coupler, it may give us as much as four inches. grin grin grin
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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/

Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.
Dr Goggles
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The Jarman-Stewart "Spirit of Sunshine" Bellytank


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« Reply #5048 on: April 12, 2016, 01:30:21 AM »

......and the part# is priceless. cheers cheers
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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/

Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.
kiwi belly tank
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« Reply #5049 on: April 12, 2016, 09:40:36 AM »

Yeah I'm a priceless kinda guy.......oh hang on......I mean without much money. tongue
I have both of those parts here, although I'm not using them in the same configuration but if you decide to go that way I can get you the total distance out from the diff housing so you can keep building without parts in hand.
  Sid.
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #5050 on: April 20, 2016, 03:26:31 AM »

It's 260mm from the rear plate of our box(which is the end point of the female spline) to the face on the pinion. Can you measure the pairs you have Sid? Even if we can save 75mm it'd be good.

In other news I did a clean up jobon the engine bay which makes it approachable now, it looked like the engine bay of something that had done 300,000miles without a wash...............
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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/

Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.
kiwi belly tank
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« Reply #5051 on: April 20, 2016, 04:38:56 PM »

Ok Mate, here's what I came up with.
Due to the fact I don't have your pinion yoke I'm using the distance from the front of the diff housing to the rear of the trans tail housing. This will always be constant no matter what the pinion depth is plus I had the 10 bolt couplers done 3/8" long so they could be cut back if needed.
With B&J-SID & B&J-80E it will be 2 1/2".
With B&J-SID & B&J-80 it will be 5 3/4" or anywhere down to 2 1/2" if you want to cut down the 80 coupler, they are splined full length.
This is giving you the standard 2" of spline contact on the trans output shaft & you will use a split collar (about $8) on the trans shaft to set the end float of the 80 coupler that is a floater. You can cheat 5 3/4 out to 6 1/4 ish at both ends if you need to.
All these couplers are machinable with a tungsten bit if you need to shorten them or cut a seal surface.
  Sid.
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #5052 on: April 21, 2016, 12:55:34 PM »

Fantastic! That means even with  longest length we can lose about 3 inches, meaning we can get all the room we need it seems. Colonel, what say you?
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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/

Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.
Milwaukee Midget
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« Reply #5053 on: April 21, 2016, 06:23:06 PM »

That is good news. 

I don't question you're ability to lengthen the chassis, but you've got a proven combination, and if you can get this done without having to cut and paste, you're saving time and minimizing variables.

Is the Rev in town?

Dodge, dude, this is getting exiting!  cheers
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kiwi belly tank
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« Reply #5054 on: April 21, 2016, 10:32:01 PM »

Stretching it is too much like hard work.
Hey Gogg's, I have an extra one of the long -80's that I was gunna cut down to a short. I'll sell ya that one for the price of a short & just buy a short to replace it if ya wanna go that way. Actually I could send you both ends & have another B&J-SID built to replace one of the two spares I'm having built right now so you wouldn't have to wait. He doesn't keep the B&J-SID in stock, it's a custom part.
  Sid.
 
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