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Author Topic: H/BF-BGMS changes for '10  (Read 5541 times)
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« on: June 03, 2010, 07:02:04 PM »

I am behind due to house projects that went nuffing futs so I am really going to roll on getting the car ready.

To start last year I spun the car on my backup run at 200ish mph.

There are a few factors that I can say attributed to the spin but they all lead to the outcome of the tea cup ride at Disneyland.

Lucky for me the only damage from the spin was a crack in the body seam where the nose meets the body and a starter that spun backwards at 60,000rpm and detonated.

We have already replaced the starter ($60 on ebay....lucky find).


We have also decided that we want to add more weight forward and were told NOT to come back to the salt with the 14" tires with the blower motor.
Thankfully when I originally built the car I made sure that if it was ever needed to install larger tires they could go without too much work or altering the lines. Sure this is going to be a pain but I feel it will be better in the long run to install the same M&H 22" tires we currently run on the rears on the front.

Here are a few pics of the progress as of June 3:



After cutting a good bit of sheet the tire almost fits. Clearly I need some more clearance but doesnt look like its going to radically change the bodys lines.



Here is a shot over looking level down the hood. The tire has about 1/2" below the wheel pants. This is what the previous tires had. While provisions will have to be made to cover the tops of the tires it wont require a front end rebuild (this year).


Also....

Using a narrowed early chevy drop tube axle-spindles-hubs up front. New wheels are on the way but cant proceed pressing the 5/8" studs in the hubs until I know how thick the mounting face is on the new wheels (and dont know how much to narrow until I get things assembled to measure track width.

~JH


« Last Edit: June 03, 2010, 07:07:06 PM by Jonny Hotnuts » Logged

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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2010, 07:12:20 PM »

-PROBLEMS WITH POSTING PICTURES-



Before cutting anything...



Here is the first pic I tried to post that wouldnt yesterday but does today....
« Last Edit: June 04, 2010, 10:46:01 AM by Jonny Hotnuts » Logged

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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
bvillercr
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« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2010, 02:35:06 AM »

What is your front to rear ratio now, and your going to change it to what? grin
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2010, 10:41:22 AM »

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What is your front to rear ratio now, and your going to change it to what?

I did a balance on with NA motor and it was something close to about 40/60 (60 being rear). Seems every time I add something heavy to the front I end up adding something to the rear. Its tough to get the weight forward when you have a mid-rear engine.

I would like to change it to 60/40.

~JH

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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
Seldom Seen Slim
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« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2010, 10:56:05 AM »

Unh, maybe you could get some tungsten-soled boots?
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2010, 06:52:15 PM »



Had to do some frame mods. I didnt want to have to do this but it became evident that it was the best AND shortest path.



The removed section.....thank you mr torch.



I dont know WTF these "wing" things are on my axle tube so I cut 'em off.



After grinding the fluff.



Solid bar splint. The tolerances were so tight I had to use a flap wheel to take off the dull to get it to fit.



both sides cut to length and ready for assembly.



Loose assembly ready for tolerance measurements.

~JH




« Last Edit: June 10, 2010, 06:55:51 PM by Jonny Hotnuts » Logged

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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
willieworld
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« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2010, 07:25:33 PM »

those wing things are for the front spring and radius rods ---i take it you will ridged mount  ---the bearings are in the right place ---looks good                      willie
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willie-dpombatmir-buchta
bvillercr
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« Reply #7 on: June 10, 2010, 08:29:59 PM »

40-60 is better than most have.  If you reverse the numbers I bet you will have more wheel spin. cheers
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2010, 09:25:53 PM »




Using a laser to set up toe. The laser seems to be a perfect way to set up your alignment. I dont know what people did before these things!



Got all the new studs in the hubs.



Tie rod and rack. I dont know if this is the way its done but I pointed the steering arms forward. This is because the caster angle would mean they would go below the frame and make contact on the floor. Seems to work fine and cant think of any reason why this would be bad.



rack and pinion of lamb

~JH

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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
Peter Jack
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« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2010, 10:10:06 PM »

Jonny, try turning the steering wheel. If the picture is taken from the front of the car, as it appears, you're going to find that when you turn the wheel to the right, the wheels will turn to the left and likewise in the opposite direction. The solution is to turn the rack over.

Pete
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #10 on: June 20, 2010, 10:20:27 PM »

Jonny:

PM sent.
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RidgeRunner
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« Reply #11 on: June 20, 2010, 10:28:14 PM »

JH,

     Pointing the steering arms to the front instead of the rear with no other changes will affect the Ackerman.  There seems to be various opinions as to just how much various Ackerman settings affect straight line running.

                Ed
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willieworld
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« Reply #12 on: June 20, 2010, 10:32:57 PM »

jonny   i sent you a chassis book---read the section on ackerman principle--------willie buchta
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« Reply #13 on: June 20, 2010, 11:56:07 PM »

Quick fix for your Ackerman....pull a string from the center of the rear axle, across the kingpin line (with steering straight ahead).  The tie rod ends need to land on the string line.  I was able to heat and bend my flat plate arms (similar to yours) to fix the steering on my roadster.  You may need a longer tie rod (I had to use a Sprint car part to get the odd size I needed).  Don't go too far....the autocross guys use excess Ackerman to get quicker turn-in.....not what your looking for!  If you are just a little under, it'll be ok. 

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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #14 on: June 21, 2010, 10:00:30 AM »

Peter Jack:

Thanks and duly noted....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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JH,

     Pointing the steering arms to the front instead of the rear with no other changes will affect the Ackerman.  There seems to be various opinions as to just how much various Ackerman settings affect straight line running.

                Ed


It was my mindset that because I have a 27'' frontal track width, 15-20 degrees steering and a 10' wheel base the Ackerman principles would not have any affect on handling.

Am I wrong?Huh
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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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