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Author Topic: My CBR1000A/F ...Again  (Read 17088 times)
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oz
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« on: June 03, 2010, 01:21:09 PM »

Ah well I have had the best part of a year off and have unfortunatley had to comit to other things than the bike,,,, like working and learning to drive and other such things like making ends meet!!

But I have managed to just about get all the bits now to start playing again.

The bike has managed to make a long trip of about 20 yds into the garage today



Tommorow the head comes of with not too much trouble I hope,I designed the frame so it could be removed without taking the whole engine out.



so it will be pudding test time then.
and off for machining to accept the new throttle bodies amongst other things
101 Weeks till the boat leaves


TTFN Oz
« Last Edit: June 03, 2010, 01:23:05 PM by oz » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2010, 04:13:04 AM »

cool bike mate - ill give you a call this weekend now works calmed down a bit   cheers
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« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2010, 04:29:49 PM »

Well Pudding proven everything went well and the top end can be stripped completley without removing the engine from the frame



first stage remove two one off shoulder bolts



undo all the sundries nos etc and try and seperate a severely corroded exhaust system



that wasnt tooo bad and clearance of the rocker cover and head wasnt a problem either










Looks weird all naked in the frame

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« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2010, 12:15:43 PM »

Injector pump relocated, one boss to blank off which is good as it can be used as a drain plug for transportation. There was a slight leak on one of the seams which will be rectified in the process of the relocation.



Chain drilling is a pain but without a plasma it is a neseccity, I do have a trepanning tool but Icant clamp the tank without fouling the tool.



Hole cut and filed... cool.



Air Intake re design seems like this will be in the area of high pressure for the new airbox I hope





looks like it is in the right region



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« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2010, 07:08:00 AM »

had a bit of a result with the throttle bodies,It seems that the mounting rubbers are offset and if you cut them and swap from side to side the centres come very close to what I want,Just over 1mm away which is going to save alot of work.







and the stella always helps with the creative thinking!!
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« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2010, 11:56:12 AM »

Yes,  a few beers helps when it come to precise measurements,,, mmm looks close enough !!!   cheers cheers

Keep up the good work.

Charles
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« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2010, 12:30:06 PM »

Gowd blimy !

A Brit that takes measurements in mm !



Oz; brilliant bike. Please keep us posted !
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« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2010, 01:49:21 PM »

LOL you know it!! if its got to be a little bit accurate its mm if its got to be more acurate its Thous if its speed its MPH if its directions its Yards if its hot its Farenhite when its cold its Celsius Jeez we are a mixed up bunch aint we!

While I am typing I have a question, The new ignition from the last build (Dynatek) is being ditched as i will be using a 36-1 timing wheel.



if its usefull to anyone, he who shouts loudest gets it, it is a one off stator as far as i know good old MPS


I still have the old pick up from the original electronic ignition which used a steel fighting star kinda thing and a single pick up. which makes me think its magnetic pick up does anyone know if this will work with a 36-1 as it is small compact and i will be able to keep it all within the casing,Will it react quick enough as the old rotor only had 6 or 7 points what do you reckon?

Cheers Oz
« Last Edit: June 07, 2010, 01:51:08 PM by oz » Logged

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« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2010, 12:03:27 PM »

With just these simple tools I will now demonstrate how to make a Fuel Pump mounting boss



Wizz the trepanning tool around at the slowest speed possible and remember to hold on two the pedastle drill in cas it wobbles itself out the door of the shed.



Make a groove about 1.5mm deep in a kinda circle and then decide that the tool you are using is never ever going to go through 5mm steel plate,oh and remember ear plugs unless you love screaching squealing high frequency noise!!



Chain drill another bit of steel and knock the centre out with a big hammer,Then repeat the operation for the outside circle.



Pop a few holes through it in the appropriate places tap and counter bore to accept the heads of the bolts for plug welding and voila!





Then its time for some really technical stuff I laugh in the face of CAD designers,,, well not really just a few dimensions for the new intake spigots



CAD drawings done just need to source the ali




Redundancy looms yet again so progress may have to slow down somewhat.

TTFN Oz

« Last Edit: June 08, 2010, 02:16:41 PM by oz » Logged

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« Reply #9 on: June 13, 2010, 07:44:06 AM »

New Intakes done for the front until the head has the new throttle bodies and airbox fitted





Throttle mounting plate done





And 36-1 timing wheel fitted,Kinda getting there!

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« Reply #10 on: June 14, 2010, 09:06:39 AM »

I liked the method of making the groove, in order to drill the holes accurately.  That's one I'll use, because it saves so much time hand filing.  Usually I'd drawn a line, and then tried to get the holes on the line....which quickly taught me to make the circle smaller, drill the holes, and then hand file to the actual size.

This is a good site to learn stuff.
JimL
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« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2010, 11:48:39 PM »

Like all the hand stuff, team STD can relate. But the easy-off head frame is a bit of practical designing. Factories please take note.
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« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2010, 06:13:58 PM »

What Make/Model bike are the throttle bodies from?

I have a CBR1000F engine in a Drag Bike I would like to change to Fuel Injection.

JW
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« Reply #13 on: June 19, 2010, 02:50:49 AM »

JW Bodies are zx10r Kawasaki 2004/5 you have to cut the mounting rubber in half and reverse it then split the bank of four and space the two halves apart Bingo!! its there.

I can post the Cad drawings for the parts if you want them but I would wait for a week or two.
When they are fitted and working I could advise you on any pitfalls I come across.

Timing wheel is 2.5inches and goes straight in with the correct spacing for the original pick up,Again I will try it and see how it goes.

I have a friend who also runs a CBR Drag bike his has a Turbo setup and he holds the IOM Ramsey Sprint record for his class.
so if Richard Barks appears on this site he would be a good bloke to have a chin wag with!

Cheers Oz
« Last Edit: June 19, 2010, 03:55:48 AM by oz » Logged

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« Reply #14 on: July 27, 2010, 11:38:30 AM »

Unfortunatley the first revision of the new Inlet tracts failed miserably before getting of the starting blocks,I think i was trying to be too clever for my own good and almost ruined the good head I have the other two heads are mainly for spares and hopefully wont have to be used.
But with a couple of chats with an old friend who happens to own a lovely little machine shop the new inlets should be ready to be welded in and flowed by the time I get back from Italy.....I have to go away coz all you fellas will be on the salt enjoying yourselves I am going to go and drown myself in nastro azzuro and arabiata sauce yum yum!!
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