|
Stan Back
|
 |
« Reply #15 on: March 30, 2010, 09:01:34 PM » |
|
I'm still trying to master crown moldings.
Stan
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters – California's most-exclusive roadster club.
|
|
|
Peter Jack
Hero Member
 Offline
Age: 68
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1652
|
|
« Reply #16 on: March 30, 2010, 09:25:02 PM » |
|
Interesting looking build Whizzbang. Keep those pictures coming.
Pete
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
My avatar shows Tok, a 100# Alaskan Malamute.
He's the one who runs everything around here.
|
|
|
|
BAILEIGH INC
|
|
« Reply #17 on: March 31, 2010, 08:41:18 AM » |
|
Good subject, and something I've struggled with for years. Recently I made a fixture to mount the tube to my rotary table. A bi-metal hole saw mounted in the mill-drill does the cutting.  I bought a cad program to help design my frame. (I've always been a "Hume Cad" kind of guy myself, but am being won over by this technology now.  ) If anyone is interested the program I'm using is Alibre Design and is pretty easy to learn. Once the tube is designed the program lets me find the angles and offsets that I need to cut the tubes. I found the real benefit to this in the downtubes on the frame I'm building now. The joint at the neck is off center on each side and they meet the lower tubes at an angle. With this set up and an electronic protractor mounted perpendicular to the tube centerline for rotational angle reference I was able to cut them to fit properly in just a few minutes on the first try, with no scrapped parts or hand fitment required.  It worked out really well for me and save a lot of time. I am able to get precision offsets and angles with the calibrations on the mill table and the rotary table. The electronic protractor on the tube requires a little finesse to get the tube clamped in the fixture in the proper position but isn't too bad. I haven't been able to find anything on the market that is affordable to the home builder to do this kind of tube notching, so maybe this will help someone. BAILEIGH, if your company comes out with a similar set up after seeing this, I expect a royalty, or at least a complimentary sample , and a donation to SSS for the site.  Ha ha....no worries. Here is our newest offering to the tube notching community. http://www.bii1.com/notchers/tube-notcher-tn250.php |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Richard Thomason
Sr. Member
Offline
Age: 64
Location: Brewster, WA
Posts: 388
|
|
« Reply #18 on: June 07, 2010, 02:25:53 PM » |
|
Neat program on laying out pipe notching pattern. Do you have something similar for figuring out the before notched tube length?
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
BAILEIGH INC
|
|
« Reply #19 on: June 07, 2010, 03:02:12 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Anvil*
Full Member
Offline
Age: 57
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 170
|
|
« Reply #20 on: June 07, 2010, 06:02:45 PM » |
|
If you have a steady base like a mill or can jig up to a mag-drill I like to use a Rotabroach personally.
Much like a mill cutter but with the center missing. Makes a very clean round cut in tube or plate.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
bearingburner
|
|
« Reply #21 on: June 07, 2010, 06:43:48 PM » |
|
Does anyone make "fine" tooth bimetalic hole saws?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Chaz
Jr. Member
Offline
Age: 63
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 58
|
|
« Reply #22 on: June 07, 2010, 10:27:01 PM » |
|
 We used a holesaw on a drill press . Worked well for our purposes and was cheap! You can see the quality of the fit in the picture below.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
4-barrel Mike
Hero Member
Offline
Age: 64
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1695
Any fool can drive a V8
|
|
« Reply #23 on: June 07, 2010, 11:16:07 PM » |
|
Chaz:
Nice cuts! What rpm were you turning that hole saw??
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Mike Kelly - PROUD owner of the V4F that powered the #1931 VGC to a 82.803 mph record in 2008!
|
|
|
Kato Engineering
Jr. Member
Offline
Location: Devore Heights, Calif. ...so,calif mountains
Posts: 63
|
|
« Reply #24 on: June 08, 2010, 01:11:29 AM » |
|
after cutting a basic size / length / angle with a common endmill in the milling machine,
I have been using a cheapie vertical ocillating sander that uses a tubular roll originally made for wood working..
...... been doing it this way for many years to maker the final fit just right.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Chaz
Jr. Member
Offline
Age: 63
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 58
|
|
« Reply #25 on: June 08, 2010, 08:13:55 AM » |
|
Chaz:
Nice cuts! What rpm were you turning that hole saw??
Mike
Hi Mike... I have a variable speed press, so I cant tell you the RPM's exactly, but it is cut at a very slow speed. I'm guessing about 100 RPM or so |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Richard Thomason
Sr. Member
Offline
Age: 64
Location: Brewster, WA
Posts: 388
|
|
« Reply #26 on: June 09, 2010, 12:02:51 PM » |
|
Thanks Baileigh Inc. Just purchased the Bend-Tech Pro. Now I guess it's time for some serious reading and hopefully learning.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
BAILEIGH INC
|
|
« Reply #27 on: June 09, 2010, 12:16:50 PM » |
|
Thanks Baileigh Inc. Just purchased the Bend-Tech Pro. Now I guess it's time for some serious reading and hopefully learning.
Right on, keep us posted on your progress. Bend Tech rules!  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
BAILEIGH INC
|
|
« Reply #28 on: July 16, 2010, 07:58:14 AM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
BAILEIGH INC
|
|
« Reply #29 on: November 21, 2011, 10:35:21 AM » |
|
Anyone notching on a bend?  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
