holley blue fuel pump regulator

[KZScott]

I was given a used pump and regulator that is supposed to be in working order, so I want to double check that Im doing this correctly. my problem is i dont seem to build fuel pressure(2 psi), but have lots of volume.

when setting the fuel pressure, it must be flowing correct? as in i pull the fuel line going to the fuel solenoid in my fogger system and run it into an open jug?

does it matter which is the return and which runs to the solenoid? im thinking it does and they are backwards. 3 ports on the regulator, one says in two say out and look identical to me?

when the pump is running and dumping fuel into the open jug, capping that line doesnt bump pressure. capping the return doesnt build pressure, capping both(kink rubber lines) and 9psi.

thanks

[Crosley]

that regulator is a dead head static pressure  design,  not a return to tank  by-pass  design.  If there is flow the pressure will not build.

the three ports... larger size is the feed...  the 2 on the sides are feeds to the carb or what ever

[KZScott]

the three ports are all 3/8 pipe

[1212FBGS]

1 inlet 2 outlets and all are 3/8 npt.... cap off 1 of the outlets and put yer hose on it....it should definetely build enough pressure to blow yer thumb off of it if you are doing a trailer park pressure test.... i suspect someone gave ya a pump in need of a rebuild..... speedway should have a rebuild kit for ya...
kent

[dickj]

"Fogger??"  Sounds like your going to use this system as the secondary fuel supply for a nitrous system.  I've used a whole lot of swap meet parts, but personally, if this is going to be part of a nitrous system, I'd save it for trading fodder and buy a new pump and regulator.  A loss of fuel in a straight gas motor will usually show up as loss of power.  Loss of fuel in a nitrous motor usually yields a lot of scrap aluminum.

DickJ
In East Texas

[Speed Limit 1000]

Pull your foggers from the motor and flow through them into a jug for 1 min. See how much flows at different pressures.  With one line open it will not build much pressure.

[Crosley]

the three ports are all 3/8 pipe

OK..  it is still a dead head regulator, not a by-pass style.

If it is a chinese copy of the old Holley regulator style, throw it away.. Aeromotive is good stuff

[Stainless1]

We ran up to 15 psi with our blue pump and reg.  If you dead head it and you are not getting at least that and can't adjust it that high, you have a bad pump or regulator. 
The best test is as SL1000 said, a trick if you don't want to pull your foggers is drill a .060 to .090 hole in a plug, pull the hose off and install the plug, adjust pressure while spraying into a container.  It will not make pressure flowing through a 3/8 or #6 hole.

[KZScott]

my uncle gave it to me, he had 3 on a camaro but then went with a big BG, they were just sitting for a couple yrs so its not a junk one someone tried to give away or a copy of the real thing.
so basically i have to cap one line, then see if i can get pressure thru a small hole in the other or through my fogger nozzels. yes i have a seperate fuel tank and pump dedicated to the nitrous. Dodge i thought it was a bypass regulator

[KZScott]

ok, so I plugged one of the out ports, and drilled a .060 hole in the other plug. set flowing pressure to 10 psi. working great. takes about 33 seconds to drain my little fuel cell

thanks guys!

[Stainless1]

Scott, try to not burn it down on the first pass.... start richer than the N20 equipment manufacturers suggest if you are planning to hold the button down for more than a couple of seconds.

[KZScott]

im thinking about trying 20f 24n with 10 psi FP
is that an ok baseline?

[Stainless1]

N20 at what temp and pressure.  If you stay in the low liquid pressures of a cold bottle you are probably safe.  I like 800 to 850 since long term button will make the bottle cooler and keep a lower pressure consistently.  Easier to tune.  Unfortunately all jets are not created equal.  I like to test and weigh, sure you waste a little N20 but it is cheaper than aluminum. 
Since your pressure setting jet is larger than the area of your 4 fuel jets you will probably not have a low fuel pressure issue.  I would put a Murphy pressure switch on the fuel pressure than ensures fuel pressure before the N20 will come on.
How long are you planning to spray? 
I probably need to find my nitrous notes to comment on your jet choices, but I would start 1 fuel jet richer than they recommend for drag racers.  N20 can run quite rich without much power loss, a little lean leads to power loss. 
Good luck with your effort.

[KZScott]

I didnt know you measured N2O temp? I have been trying to run around 950psi the few times Ive tried it at the drag strip
didnt know that 800-850 was easier to tune, I will shoot for this from now on 
I have a NOS low fuel pressure switch on my system that Im finishing, but Im not sure if I can set it high enough yet, it was for the low pressure pump. is this what you are refering to with the Murphy switch?
i have a 2 dial controller and rpm window switch with gear activation, for the drag strip i have it setup to start as soon as i click to second, 50 % start, and havent really played with build time much. I want to hit Loring this yr, but I may run a smaller shot for that and maybe delay it untill 5th and 6th gears?

[Speed Limit 1000]

Some controllers have a timer that will only run for a short time. Yes the Murphy switch, "anything that can go wrong will go wrong and at the worst time". We had our switch set that if the fuel pressure went below 6 PSI the N2O would stop.