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Author Topic: 1350cc Pushrod bike  (Read 24180 times)
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nrhs sales
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« Reply #15 on: February 02, 2010, 04:46:29 PM »

You never did answer what class you plan to run this in.  Can you run 2 engines in a regular 1350cc pushrod class or do the 2 engines make it a special construction?  The rules are confusing.
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John Noonan
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« Reply #16 on: February 02, 2010, 04:51:18 PM »

Jim,

Good talking to you, as I said rather than worrying about modding the front end for the frame you could always mod the frame if need be.

See you later..

John

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John Noonan
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« Reply #17 on: February 02, 2010, 04:54:48 PM »

You never did answer what class you plan to run this in.  Can you run 2 engines in a regular 1350cc pushrod class or do the 2 engines make it a special construction?  The rules are confusing.

Seems like it would run in APS PG-1350 pr APS PF-1350 


J
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nrhs sales
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« Reply #18 on: February 02, 2010, 05:20:14 PM »

I'm being an idiot!!  Special construction is "A" class. Some stupid voice was telling me that A class and special construction were 2 different classes.

I really need to put a hurting on that other voice that keeps talking to me! undecided
« Last Edit: February 02, 2010, 05:23:44 PM by nrhs sales » Logged
John Noonan
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« Reply #19 on: February 02, 2010, 05:59:20 PM »

I'm being an idiot!!  Special construction is "A" class. Some stupid voice was telling me that A class and special construction were 2 different classes.

I really need to put a hurting on that other voice that keeps talking to me! undecided

I never called you an idiot... evil
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fredvance
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« Reply #20 on: February 02, 2010, 06:47:22 PM »

It would be easier if they called it Altered class. rolleyes

  Fred
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WORLDS FASTEST PRODUCTION MOTORCYCLE 213.470
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« Reply #21 on: February 03, 2010, 01:56:56 AM »

Thanks, John, for the assistance....I realized these forks will help my trail number, which will be more stable, not less.  I'm sure I can build the front of the frame to take them....I have to do some pretty extreme bends to clear the front cylinder head anyway.  If my luck holds it'll rain all weekend, which means SHOP TIME!!..... not trimming bushes and hauling trash.  I feel the need....to bend some steel.

Have a successful trip.

JimL
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nrhs sales
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« Reply #22 on: February 03, 2010, 10:55:29 AM »

Noonan,
Stop talking to me in my head!!

Jim
Bike looks great.
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saltwheels262
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« Reply #23 on: February 03, 2010, 05:35:12 PM »

[quote   I can brace the triple clamps, like we used to do for road race in the old days.


[/quote]

i'm interested in how you did in fact reinforce the triple clamps.

your bike looks good. good luck. which event are you planning on attending?

franey
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events -- made a 2 state change in ZIP codes

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007
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« Reply #24 on: February 04, 2010, 09:01:04 PM »

We used to split tubing, so we could slide it over the upper tubes, and fit an x-brace across the front of the upper tubes, to keep the upper and lower clamps from rocking.  We used industrial screw clamps to pinch the tubing (it was only split on one side....drove it on with a hammer before installing the upper triple clamp).  The original lower clamps had a pinch bolt, but the old upper clamps only had the filler plug as the hold-down on the top end of the tubes.  You could grab the front wheel between your knees, yank the bars, and reposition the upper clamp/handlebar alignment (back in the bad old days).

Hard to believe we survived, isn't it?  Anyway, Noonan helped me out on some FZR1000 forks, so now I've gotta' get working on the frame.  This is probably good, because I was going to have to weld the cracked lower end of one of the Katana lower legs (free bikes are never free, are they).

JimL
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saltwheels262
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« Reply #25 on: February 05, 2010, 04:51:23 PM »

thanx.
any more pix of build or reinforced trees?

franey
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events -- made a 2 state change in ZIP codes

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007
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« Reply #26 on: February 13, 2010, 11:36:18 PM »

FZR1000 front end fitted, and the Katana frame cut down in preparation for reinforcement and tube joins.  I had to move the enigne back 1", and down 3/4" in front, in order to clear the frame and be able to turn the forks.  The FZR forks have more trail than the Katana, and are a lot bigger.  The FZR forks fit the Katana frame with .120" spacer under the lower bearing.

The second pic shows the approximate shape plan for the 1 5/8" top tubes.  There will be a 7" radius bend to get around the rear cylinder head and exhaust.  I've quite a bit of plate to add around the swing arm pivot area, and cross braces to keep it all stiff.  I still haven't figured out how to get the engine package in and out of the frame.  The left front side of the engine bay is a problem, because there's a carburetor right where I need a down tube.

onward....



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Beairsto Racing
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« Reply #27 on: February 14, 2010, 12:31:43 AM »

Looks great Jim! It should make for a very slim package.
What kind of body work do you have planned?
-Scott
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JimL
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« Reply #28 on: February 14, 2010, 01:02:08 AM »

Thanks.... I'm using Charlies Toy fairing (same as last years bike) and Kent's new tailpiece (to fit the current rule).  I'm considering carrying some frame into the fairing, to give me a place to mount "stuff" that I'm running out of room for.  I have last years fairing, so as soon as I get top tubes tacked in, I'll see how it fits.

This is really fun, whether it works or not!

JimL
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« Reply #29 on: February 14, 2010, 10:58:49 PM »

Work done today (photos):
1.  This shows my plumb bob, hung through the center of the steering stem.  The tie rod (seen behind the wheel) is used to fine adjust vertical true, after the table is trued and blocked, when measuring.  You can also see where the front wheel is bolted throught the table frame (table frame length was set to match desired wheel base).
2.  Photo shows top tubes fitting method.  The plumb bob and level can be seen.  This is 6.5" radius bend in my 1 5/8" top tubes.
3.  The ends of the top tubes were notched to fit the cut Katana frame.  These will make some pretty tight welds after the paint is ground away.
4.  Here's the fairing from last years 500cc pushrod bike, fitted around the twin engines.  I designed this frame to use EXACTLY the same front and side fairing mounts as last years bike.  It will save me some time and effort as I work through this, and I already know my legs and arms fit the 500cc bike.  I'm considering adding 1" of seat height (compared to my 500cc bike) to allow a little more room under my right foot for the 4 megaphones.


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