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Author Topic: Skip’s “Thing” – Blown Fuel Roadster  (Read 89260 times)
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« Reply #15 on: September 20, 2009, 01:20:00 AM »

bvillercr

Yep, It's easy to post 12 months worth of work in a day! Really I think I'm working in Dog Years here as everything takes me 7 times longer (and expensive) than I think it should. I've got friends that have busted out complete race cars in under 6 months, simply amazing!

Here's the promised update on the brake & clutch pedals>

I originally intended to use a Wilwood hanging brake & clutch pedal assembly; however, as it all seems too common with this project, I had to rethink my options as I ran out of room. The pedal assemblies placed the hydraulics in front of the pedals and the added length pushed the pedals back too far into the cockpit. What I really needed was a reverse mount set-up with the hydraulics pointing toward the driver. I looked for a suitable replacement, but didn’t find one. So I scrapped the mounts I'd created for the Wilwood units and commenced to make myself a set of reverse mount pedals. Here’s some pics of the pieces and the finished unit tacked into the car. I know some roadsters only run a hand brake; however I spent a lot of time on dirt and like the confidence in knowing that if I need to, I can stand on a brake pedal.

Thanks - Skip         


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« Reply #16 on: September 20, 2009, 01:22:46 AM »

Brake & Clutch tacked into the car.


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« Reply #17 on: September 20, 2009, 05:14:39 AM »

Looks Good Man, Keep up the great work.  Tim
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« Reply #18 on: October 10, 2009, 11:04:16 PM »

I like it Skip!  ....want to come by and see it...give me a call...Rob has my cell, if you don't.

JimL

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« Reply #19 on: November 16, 2009, 03:53:06 AM »

Brake & clutch pedal are complete so it's time for a gas pedal. True to form it was easier to make one than adapt and existing unit. The pedal is made from some extra 3/4” tubing and 1/8” sheet stock. I drilled holes in the pedal and used a center punch to raise the hole for traction. I haven’t yet added a pedal strap, but will do so later after making sure it accommodates my racing shoes. I’m hanging the pivot for the pedal from the brake & clutch assembly as I believe this will give me a long, smooth pedal action for the throttle.


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« Reply #20 on: November 16, 2009, 03:55:37 AM »

Here are some pics of my secondary flooring which is 3/16 inch aluminum plate. Each piece bolts in from above the step pan and to add additional weight I left space to sandwich in 3/4 inch steel plate.


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« Reply #21 on: November 16, 2009, 04:03:04 AM »

Have you ever had a problem with a tape measure? Seems like the cheap help I’m using (me) can’t measure correctly, so I had to remake the rear crossmember. All’s well now as I was able to revise my rear spring placement inward 1 inch, which freed up some needed space for the rear 4-link.


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« Reply #22 on: November 16, 2009, 06:31:52 AM »

Skip, when a guy's doing really nice work like you are, every once in a while you've got to do one of those just to keep you humble. We all do it, few of us admit to it.

Keep up the great work and keep posting pictures.

Pete
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« Reply #23 on: November 16, 2009, 07:33:17 AM »

Quote
True to form it was easier to make one than adapt and existing unit.

Gospel! wink
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« Reply #24 on: November 16, 2009, 03:24:36 PM »

Skip --

You might need to space the pedals apart a little -- especially if you're using the bulky "funny car" boots.  Just a thot  . . .

Stan
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« Reply #25 on: November 17, 2009, 03:22:17 AM »

Peter
The older I get, the easier it is to find the time to go back and undo a mistake, before it turns complicated.

Stan,
Yea, I’ve been fretting about the pedal spacing and coming from a roadster guy I’m sure you speak from experience. The good part is I can trim the pedal bushing and space it either way. I’ve got shoes left over from when I raced midgets (add jokes here) however I need the SFI-15 boots to set final spacing.

Thanks - Skip
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« Reply #26 on: November 17, 2009, 03:29:13 AM »

I thought I needed so additional capacity to add weight to the car. Could have just relied on my lead butt for rear weight, but I fab’d up some weight bars that go under the seat and run side to side. They're just capped tubing with tabs that will bolt to the frame rails. I'll fill them with lead shot.


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« Reply #27 on: November 17, 2009, 03:30:45 AM »

I thought I needed so additional cockpit triangulation (to add roll cage structure stiffness and tie the right side top rail to the cockpit top rail) so I fab’d up this piece. It unbolts for removal to give access to the water tank and dry sump tank.


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« Reply #28 on: November 17, 2009, 03:32:25 AM »

I also thought I could use some shoulder protection, so I picked up these Kirkey pieces that are recommended for my Kirkey 20 deg layback seat. Instead of bolting them to the seat I rotated them forward to run parallel to the cage and then added mounts to the cage. They limit side to side rocking, although will still “give” if called to do so (hopefully not).


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« Reply #29 on: November 17, 2009, 03:35:06 AM »

For body mounting I always planned to bolt/clamp the body to the top of the frame. Usually I make a threaded spud and weld it in but recently found these nifty threaded pieces from McMaster Carr. They were too inexpensive to pass up and as you can see worked really well. I’ll be using these again. I made the clamping plates from 3/16 inch flat bar.

I’m in the process of finish welding the cage and then it’s on to making the trans mount, shifter mount and water & fuel tank. As this is a blown/fuel motor I’m thinking 25 gallon on the water tank and 15 gal for fuel. I’ve got a “Chiller” intercooler for the 8-71 blower and will need to fab an intercooler tank; was thinking 15 gal water/ice would do. However, Blower/engine guru says “Chiller” not necessary with fuel, but absolutely necessary with gas. Any thoughts?         


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