V4 Dodge

[zenndog]

I think it is interesting to point out all the small problems that come up, I think that for every thing that is pointed out there are 6-10 others that were dealt with and most are now forgotten, and may never be mentioned. If you don't enjoy solving little problems, this is the wrong hobby.

The other day when we were putting the motor/trans into the roaster Rich said "we have a problem", I was thinking, "I am sure it is no big deal", then Rich pointed out that the Dodge factory starter bulge was hitting the steering gear housing. I thought, "now that is a problem". I had to laugh because it reminded me of this quote from a movie I watch with my kids, Kung Fu Panda

Shifu: Master! I have... it's very bad news!
Oogway: Ah, Shifu. There is just news. There is no good or bad.
Shifu: Master, your vision. Your vision was right! Tai-Lung has broken out of prison! He's on his way!
[pause]
Oogway: That IS bad news.

Rewrite:

Rich: Zenon, we have a problem.
Zenon: No, I think the oil manifold is just caught on the primer pump but the pump can be taken off.
Rich: No, look at the starter bulge cast into the block, it is hitting the steering box.
Zenon: Oh, that IS a problem.

Of course it wasn't a problem after all!

Happy New Year!!!!!!!!

[zenndog]

Update, I was at Rich’s on Moday, MLK Jr day. Rich made part of the brackets to mount the engine, some neat little accessories for the engine tilter that would allow us to slip the chain onto brackets rather than have to bolt it to the block. And he added an actual handle, which it has never had because it wasn’t in the box when I bought it.
The goal today was to remove the engine to add a spacer to the clutch fork fulcrum to allow the clutch fork to engage the clutch easier, and hopefully before it bumped into the firewall. Also the goal was to fabricate the engine mounts so the engine is actually mounted in the roadster.
We started by lifting the engine and setting it in the position we wanted it in
Level from side to side, 3 degrees from front to back-even though the engine will be fuel injected, mechanical of course!





Once the engine was leveled, we bolted the first part of the engine mounts to the block and then the “doughnuts” to the frame with the second part of the steel bracket attached. Then I tacked them in place. I didn’t get any pics because I was welding. But here is a picture after the mounts were tacked before I finished welding the first one. The steel parts attach to an aluminum collar or “doughnut” which is attached to the frame. Rich never welds to the roadster frame because he has put so many engines in it.



Here are the mounts from different angles









Once the mounts were ready the engine had to come out again





Here is a close up of the leveler with the brackets Rich made and the new “handle” for turning the screw



I guess I didn’t get pics, but we looked at the clutch fork and decided that a ¼” spacer was the place to start for the fulcrum. We lowered the engine on the hoist and pulled off the trans and bell housing again. It went smooth. While I was looking around the shop for the hood sides ( which were right in front of me on the wall), Rich made a ¼” spacer and had it bolted back on. So we but the trans/bell housing back on the engine and put the engine back in the roadster.
Here is a couple of pics which show where the clutch was before and where we wanted it to be. This is pre- spacer



This is where we want it to engage ( I am holding it)



Here it is back in the roadster, after the spacer is installed on the fulcrum, with the engine bolted into the car



Here is the before



I think that is an improvement!

Here is where Rich turned out the lights, quitting time. Engine bolted in with solid mounts, clutch fork positioned where we want it.



The Montana dodge boys are coming to visit Rich next weekend. Should be fun, don’t know if I can make it but I hope to.

[zenndog]

I missed the Dodge Boys, but they stopped in to see Rich last Tuesday. We got some work done this weekend, here are some pics

First, here is where we left off



The job for the day is to attach the slave cylinder for the clutch. Here it is with the bracket as used on the Plymouth



we decided to attach it to two bolts on the bell housing, here is a pic with the nut removed from the top bolt



Another angle



We made a larger plate that lined up on the bolts we wanted to use and then welded the old bracket to the new plate. Here is the result. The adjustable push rod and spring were used on the Plymouth. There is an aluminum bracket, which is hard to see, that holds the spring. I had to grind off the back of the original dimple in the throw out arm with a carbide bit in a die grinder to make a hole to mount the spring.



Another angle after it was installed



We spent some time staring at the oil pump and different ways to mount it. Rich wants to think about it more so we stopped there with the fabrication work.

While Rich was checking the internet for different sized timing belts to use for the oil pump, I took the Roto-Phaze distributor out to check it on the engine. Rich was concerned that it may hit the hood so while he was busy I decided to check it out.

Here is a distributor that Rich modified to fit the dodge. This has been in many of the photos you have seen in this thread.



Here is the Roto-Phaze.





The Roto-Phaze distributor cleared the hood so i think it should be a go.

That is all for now.

[38flattie]

I love this build!

It's looking great guys!

[zenndog]

On another note, I bought my helmet, head restraint device, and Nomex head sock in early January. I went with DJ Safety.

I didn't take any pics but we also re-installed the flooring panels, driveshaft/trans covers and I took a moment to sit in the car for the first time. Pretty cool!

The next time I am there I will get Rich to take a picture.

[RichFox]

After a lot of holding the pump here and there and finding which belt was right this is where the oil pump ended up. Now to find a place to put the fuel pump.

[jdincau]

How about on the back of the oil pump?

[RichFox]

That's how I had it on my Plymouth. We will see.  RF

[Anvil*]

If it won't work on the back you could add another plate and support bearing on that long shaft then add a second pulley out front to drive the fuel pump. You'll need some long spacers to get the load back to the engine block.

[RichFox]

The plan was to put the pully hard against the oil pump pully and mount the Hilborn drive to the back of the bracket that holds the oil pump. Not sure I have room for that. Haven't really tried yet. Or there is the aux drive shaft running at crank speed on the other side.

[Stan Back]

Any way to mount it on the front cover and run it directly off the cam?

[zenndog]

Rich likes the fuel pump to run directly off the oil pump. That way if the oil pump stops spinning the fuel supply stops also, the engine dies. Z

[RichFox]

It would require a new front cover to mount the pump and then I think the dampner would be in the way. If I wanted this to be easy I could have bought a crate 350. I wouldn't have minded if it was somewhat less hard.

[Stan Back]

I couldn't tell from the photos where the cam was located (probably in the same place it has been for years).  Foolish of me to offer the suggestion.  I'm well aware that you know more about that engine (and all engines) than I.  Just thought I'd offer it up for discussion.

[Dr Goggles]

If I wanted this to be easy I could have bought a crate 350. I wouldn't have minded if it was somewhat less hard.

That should be in the landspeed quotes section, hahahah, I laughed when I read that. We all want it to be a bit difficult, but right in the the thick of it you're always wishing it would be over soon. I cringe at the amount of time and money I've spent when you're lost in the maze and it seems like dollars will save you time, in the end it takes lots of both , and patience.