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Author Topic: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners  (Read 517752 times)
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Koncretekid
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« Reply #2625 on: November 23, 2016, 08:09:22 AM »

A tig offers much finer control and neater, higher quality welds. Look for a tig welder with available high frequency AC and you'll be able to weld aluminum as well. Mig welding stainless requires a very specific gas mixture. One of the best sites to learn techniques is weldingtipsandtricks.com .

Pete

Bo,
I bought a Thermal Arc 95S for under $500 and Pete pretty much trained me to Tig weld over the phone!  But the little Thermal Arc welder has no foot pedal current control which made for some not-so-pretty end of welds.  On the other hand, with a Mig welder (not sure about the SS) you could just tack the pieces together and find a shop to finalize the welding. But learn to make the tack welds very small or your Tig guy won't be happy.
Tom
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2626 on: November 23, 2016, 10:18:39 AM »

How does the foot pedal tig control work when you are laying on your back or in the other awkward positions that are often used when welding?  The jig for tacking up the the pipe will be the bike.  There are all sorts of confined and hard to access places where I will need to squirrel in a tack weld.   
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Stainless1
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« Reply #2627 on: November 23, 2016, 10:43:33 AM »

Bo, it works with your knee, your foot sideways, your other hand... yep, rarely need filler rod for a tack.

forgot, they do have thumb control torches... never used one though
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
Peter Jack
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« Reply #2628 on: November 23, 2016, 12:21:44 PM »

In really awkward situations I've been known to use voice control. Someone else runs the pedal and you just shout whether you need more or less. It usually works pretty well.  grin grin grin

The problem with not having a pedal is that the end of the weld usually turns pretty hot. The only way to cool it down is to feed filler rod faster or else stop and let things cool a little and then finish.

Pete
« Last Edit: November 23, 2016, 12:24:59 PM by Peter Jack » Logged
Koncretekid
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« Reply #2629 on: November 23, 2016, 07:39:21 PM »


The problem with not having a pedal is that the end of the weld usually turns pretty hot. The only way to cool it down is to feed filler rod faster or else stop and let things cool a little and then finish.

Pete

Pete,
It's that "stop" that always got me in trouble.  Without amperage control, I got a little volcano at the end of the weld - - never got the hang of feeding more filler rod, retracting the torch (to break the arc), and getting a nice finish.  I've since had the pleasure of using a torch with a foot pedal to taper off the current while leaving the torch in place with the Argon still flowing - - what a difference!

Tomorrow I'll be welding up a new muffler for an Ossa using the Thermal Arc, so I'll get another chance to make several stops and starts.  If it turns out well, I'll post a picture for Wobbly to ponder the results of pedal-less tig welding!

Tom
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salt27
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« Reply #2630 on: November 23, 2016, 08:16:44 PM »

Bo, it works with your knee, your foot sideways, your other hand... yep, rarely need filler rod for a tack.

forgot, they do have thumb control torches... never used one though

Gus sits on the foot control when he has to crawl under to weld.
A trick Willie Buchta taught him.   cheers

I also have a thumb control, I like it but Gus does not, to each his own.

Bo, I'm only 100 miles South of you, if you want to come try your hand at it.

  Don
« Last Edit: November 23, 2016, 08:34:46 PM by salt27 » Logged
wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2631 on: November 24, 2016, 03:35:34 PM »

A general lack of talent combined with minimal patience and no experience tells me I should get a decent welder to start.  The Hobart 165i EZ-TIG looks good.  It is american made.  The shop that sells these is a few blocks from my local so I can nip into the pub when I get welding supplies.
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #2632 on: November 24, 2016, 03:58:58 PM »

Bo, that would be a perfect choice. There's a website called welding tips and tricks that would likely help you a lot getting started. Get extra tungstens because you'll use them until you get used to the procedures. PM me if I can be of assistance.

Pete
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Hoody
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« Reply #2633 on: November 24, 2016, 04:21:25 PM »

I assume the welding site is linked to this Youtube channel which has some handy vids on it?  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqq70AnPkj4-UApS_m_6mPw
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2634 on: November 24, 2016, 05:34:51 PM »

Thanks for the advice.  It will be  awhile until I get it.  Cams are being ground and bigger exhaust valves installed.  Paying for them comes first.

There is another thread where the subject of race gas was discussed and a fellow recommended calling Rick at ERC.  In the past I used Sunoco 'cause that is what I could get here.  Their Standard and Supreme gave me good results.  Both are leaded and I used them while I was monkeying around with nitropropane and toluene.  The lead helped to calm those fuel mixes.

Now I am using gasoline without those helpers.  It would be nice to switch to unleaded for the sake of the dyno operator, me, and all of you at the track downwind from the thing when it is running.  ERC does a good job with no-lead blends so I called Rick.  He does have a dealer in Oregon, now.  He gave me a leaded and unleaded gas recommendation.  MUL-C is the unleaded.  I will try that.

The highest cylinder pressures are around peak torque rpm on the dyno.  The knock light will be installed and if it blinks red it is time to switch back to leaded gas.  Hopefully the no-lead will work.     
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Stainless1
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« Reply #2635 on: November 24, 2016, 07:09:15 PM »

Hey Bo,
"A general lack of talent combined with minimal patience" is something most of us are blessed with  rolleyes

 cheers
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
Peter Jack
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« Reply #2636 on: November 24, 2016, 08:22:22 PM »

I assume the welding site is linked to this Youtube channel which has some handy vids on it?  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqq70AnPkj4-UApS_m_6mPw

Hoody, you hit it bang on!  cheers cheers cheers

Pete
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« Reply #2637 on: November 25, 2016, 01:27:56 AM »

Bo, I'm self taught and welding is a passion for me. I love it.
A good machine makes you a better welder. Buy the best you
can get. All the advice posted is spot on. Lying on the foot control
takes getting used to though. grin grin grin
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Koncretekid
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« Reply #2638 on: November 25, 2016, 11:38:30 AM »

Set up and made a small muffler for my trials bike using the Thermal Arc 95S - - here is an example of what I can get without foot control:
With a coat of paint:


While we're on the subject, Pete, how does that Hobart compare with the Miller Diversion 180 and the Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200 TIG Welder?  The Lincoln is the cheapest that seems to have the same specs.

Tom
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #2639 on: November 25, 2016, 11:52:55 AM »

I'm impressed Tom.  cheers cheers cheers

Hobart is a totally acceptable brand. They are actually owned by Miller and their products are the equals of Miller and Lincoln. I haven't used any of the smaller machines recently but in the past I've found them to be just fine. The main thing is to ensure that they have AC and high frequency capabilities so they can weld aluminum. If you don't get that capability you'll be kicking yourself forever.

Bye the way Tom, where did you get those caps for the ends of the muffler?

Pete

« Last Edit: November 25, 2016, 11:54:41 AM by Peter Jack » Logged
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