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Author Topic: Berkeley tune up AK  (Read 20785 times)
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Nexxussian
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« on: March 26, 2009, 07:32:56 PM »

Hello everyone, as some of you may have read in the intro section, my father bought the #559 Berkeley (formerly # 907) From Charles Hornbrook at Speed Week '08. Or as I jokingly tell people here "I left him unattended and he bought a car." grin

Here's Pop's in the Berkeley at a friend's house (before we got it home to Alaska, yes really).



We are currently in the process of going through the car and perfroming the combination of maintenance and modification we believe it needs to both fit us and "safely" go faster. Pop's and I both plan to drive it @ Speed Week '09, yes, I've sent off my membership re-up  smiley. As for the safely being in quotes, well, it is racing, and therefore inherently unforgiving, but we don't see the need to take any unnecessary risks. wink


I titled the thread as a tune up as it is a running driving car that has successfully passed tech at Bonneville with the previous owner (yes, I see the part of the rule book that says it doesn't matter for the next tech, but I figure it has to be better off than an initial 'cold' tech). Our primary goal (after making it there safely and passing tech, those are goals too after all) is to run the car and try and figure out what it wants so it can go faster. We have found a few things already that we think will help, I will elaborate when my currently flaking out (variable bandwidth, not to the good either rolleyes ) Internet connection lets me upload the pictures (as I figure the descriptions are worthless without pictures  grin ).

So we are limiting the mechanical work (at this point) to cleanup and repair work of what's there and the modifications required to get us both to fit. I have longer legs than Pops does, so we are building an adjustable pedal setup out of the pedals that came with the car.

I welcome input on what you see here in this thread, especially from any of the tech officials  grin .

To those of you that have already answered questions I have asked via PM, thank you.

I hope to get to meet some of you fine people at Speed Week '09
« Last Edit: March 26, 2009, 07:37:00 PM by Nexxussian » Logged

Just happy to be here. grin

Erik
Glen
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« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2009, 07:51:04 PM »

Nex, working on it is half the fun, running it makes it worth it. Have fun getting ready and looking forward to meeting you and Pop, join us on the Tuesday night chat line.
 cheers
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Glen
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Elmo Rodge
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« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2009, 08:37:10 PM »

Erik, that's a good looking car. I are impressed.  wink Glen, Erik and his Pop have been to my house here in Utah and are good humans. I'm glad to see them here. Wayno
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jdincau
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« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2009, 08:40:36 PM »

Is this the car with the engine along side the driver?
Jim
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Nexxussian
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« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2009, 04:26:45 AM »

Yeah, the flexplate is just aft of my knees (so the engine is still 'front', sort of).

Wayno, good to be here, watching the net, seeing the volcano spout. rolleyes C-mmmon rain! (washes the ash out of the air  grin)


Yeah, we're having fun working on it.

We have the pedals mostly sorted out (we think) just have to work out the connections.

We think we have the throttle sorted out. We need a new cable as the one we have is too short for the new routing. We found most of the pieces at the local Hog shop, planning on a clutch cable sheath with 3/32nds cable (at this point). Now we just have to sort out the ends (thinking of using a sealed ball bearing for the sheath mount at the pedal end, so it won't bind when you slide the pedals).

We are reusing the clutch cable at this point (with a few minor mods to it's mount).

The brake is in work as well, we have a Wilwood MC that was in our Model A (the one we went to see Wayno in, we swapped it out for a different bore size). We also have a couple of the two piston Wilwood calipers and some bolt on rotors, so we are working on mounting a new rotor to the rear. The old one is on the pinion yoke, we're planning on puthing the new one back there. We're replacing the old one as it's warped and thin enough we doubt we cold get it to stay straight after fixing it.

I have pictures of most of that, in my home computer, I'm at work now, we are standing by to see how much ash we get and how long the eruption is (what, you thought I was kidding earlier? huh ).

I do have pictures of the header though, cool lookin' little thing.



Complete with 1 Qt bottle of Mobile 1 ATF for scale. grin

It's in pretty good shape, planning on sending it out to have it blasted and coated, worst corrosion we found on it isn't bad at all. smiley

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Erik
Nexxussian
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« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2009, 06:12:16 AM »

Well, I have a few more pictures.

A fella over on the HAMB suggested this might be a Citroen / Renault / Peugeot Mi16 2.0. The description fits (2.0, Iron block, DOHC, belt drive, 8 exhaust ports).

See what you think.





One of the distributor (Chevy II I'm guessing, with what I think is a Chrysler Mag trigger inside).

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Erik
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« Reply #6 on: March 31, 2009, 05:22:46 PM »

hi

I'm working on a photography project about LSR cars and the people involved with them. So far your the only one I have found who also is in Anchorage, AK. I would like to meet and see and you car. Send me a PM and I'll send my contact info. Look forward to hearing from you.

jim
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Nexxussian
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« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2009, 05:38:59 PM »

Not much to shoot at the moment as the car's apart.

But I'm willing to talk to you, so I'll PM anyway.
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Erik
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« Reply #8 on: April 01, 2009, 01:23:18 PM »

I had a Berkeley Street Car, tons of fun.
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Michael
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« Reply #9 on: April 01, 2009, 05:47:03 PM »

I have a little experience with the Mi16 (very little).

The person you mentioned that suggested it was a Mi16 is correct.

BTW:
For whatever its worth I always thought Honda copied a bunch of this motor for their D/B series engines.

~JH
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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
Nexxussian
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« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2009, 12:02:05 AM »

JH thanks, I haven't heard back from the fella since I posted pics over there.

Yes Berks look like a scream to drive, especially if you shoehorn some modern power in there.  evil


Picked up the new pinion yokes today and took them to the machine shop. We are re-doing the brake mount (it came to us with one disc on the pinion yoke).

I just got done cutting some blanks to have machined to fit the Yokes (after they're trued) .

Anybody know if a late '70s Cellica ever had vented front brakes (or ones that would bolt on)? I've got new discs but they're solid. Probably not a problem for heat rejection as the car was run before with less than that (for brakes) but I guess the old road racer in me wants bigger binders. evil

Not that I expect to need them at B-Ville.  rolleyes

Of course then I suppose I would have to account for some kind of pumping loss (if I came up with a vented rotor). huh
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Erik
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« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2009, 08:37:35 AM »

You must have too much time on your hands or you are building a combination road race Bonneville car. The only thing I worry about my drum brakes is that they don't drag.
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jackson
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« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2009, 09:04:47 AM »

We are kind of set up the same way Rich is.  Drum brakes only in the back, operated by a hand lever.  It provides enough force to lock up the rear brakes on salt, so I figure that's enough.  My only concern about brakes is having enough brakes to slow it down if there is a fire.  I actually prefer to have brakes that aren't sensitive since I don't have the reflexes of an F1 driver.   
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Nexxussian
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« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2009, 10:06:07 AM »

Combo road / B-Ville racer.

Good one. grin

No just one disc, mounted to the pinion yoke, 1 small caliper with a pad the size of a Stanley 'diameter scale' (# 33-115).

We are replacing the previous brake (same kind of setup, different pieces) due to the disc being warped (and a concern we wouldn't be able to keep it from warping again) and the caliper that was in use previously was draging on the rotor (it's got a 'floater' brakcet it slides on, that's what was draging).

So we are going back with new stuff in hopes of not having the drag issue it had before.

Primarily we are using these because we had the discs (new, in the box) and the calipers (ditto) so we figured that would be the simplest, as we don't know yet what axle ends are on the 7 1/4 to source drum assemblies.

And the thought of spares in hand if anything screwed up was somewhat reassuring as well.



I appreciate the input though, thank you both.
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Erik
Nexxussian
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« Reply #14 on: April 04, 2009, 10:13:04 PM »

New pit-chures.


First one, Look Ma, no gaps.



What offset?





Next are a series that shows the adjustable pedal at the current level of completion.

This is the left side pedal assembly slider rail, laid roughly in place as it would be in the car, except in the car it would be turned 90* so the 'bend' would be down.



Next is the upper slider rail bracket on the right side (apparently forgot to take a picture of the left one  embarassed) notice 2 bolt holes 90* apart, 5/16" grade 8 if you're wondering.



At the firewall (16 gauge steel) is the slider rail receiver socket, this is the left side as well.

Note, the square hole is to pass the clutch cable and bracket through in the forward position, we are sussing out a boot to seal this.




Here is a side view of what it would look like in the car, notice the 'high tech' 'space age' 'race weight' aluminum support brace to the right of the pic. wink



And finally a top view showing the pedal assembly slider roughly aligned with the holes in the rail (left side again, convenient as it were). We are hoping to use 5/16 lynch pins, but if tech says no then we will make sure to have bolts on hand. The rail is 1/8 wall 1" square tube, the slider is 1/4" wall 1 1/4" square tube. Fits together much better than it sounds.

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Erik
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