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Author Topic: Electric Water Pumps?  (Read 3189 times)
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Gwillard
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« Reply #30 on: February 21, 2009, 12:21:50 AM »

The problem of moving the water too quickly is not so much one of thermal transfer between metal and coolant as it is of thermal transfer from coolant to metal to air. It is possible to move the coolant too quickly through the radiator for it to transfer heat to the airflow. I ran into this many moons ago while racing sprint cars.
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SPARKY
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« Reply #31 on: February 21, 2009, 10:48:34 AM »

Right ON---that is why I use a water to water heat exchanger, with a seperate reservoir tank. I have some fuel cell like foam that floats in the tank---that I Try to keep the hot returned water from mixing with the ambient water that is in the reservior---may have to go to ice water if have a HP jump from power adders---right now I can maintain temp at whatever when I turn the Meziere on at the tank.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2009, 03:44:56 PM by SPARKY » Logged

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Rex Schimmer
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« Reply #32 on: February 21, 2009, 01:34:39 PM »

Fast water----slow water!? We have beat on this subject before. If you slow the water down to much the flow becomes laminar and at that point it stops transfering heat. The flow thru the engine block and the radiator must be turbulent for the best heat transfer, to be turbulent you need flow and lots of it. When I ran a sprinter for a friend of mine at the old Ascot we controlled the engine temp with the return pill on the injection.

Rex
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jl222
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« Reply #33 on: February 21, 2009, 03:28:51 PM »

Slowing down the water that goes through the engine will help it can pick up the heat . If the water moves to fast it won't pick up the heat and cool the metal surface. I am going to put a water shut off valve like I have on the water main going into the house on the return line to the water tank. That way I can control and slow down the amount of water returned to the tank and it will make pressure in the system also. This is something that we did with our drag cars in the past. Also if you run a water tank make sure that it has baffles and that helps also.  All of this is my 2 cents from an old fart anyway.

   Thats what we did on the 222 car, got it at Home Depot

                 JL222 cheers
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Gwillard
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« Reply #34 on: February 22, 2009, 05:40:31 PM »

Fast water----slow water!? We have beat on this subject before. If you slow the water down to much the flow becomes laminar and at that point it stops transfering heat. The flow thru the engine block and the radiator must be turbulent for the best heat transfer, to be turbulent you need flow and lots of it. When I ran a sprinter for a friend of mine at the old Ascot we controlled the engine temp with the return pill on the injection.

Rex

That's what we did for the first year or two. But once we got the cooling system optimized we were also able to optimize the air/fuel ratio regardless of ambient conditions.
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« Reply #35 on: March 29, 2009, 11:32:45 PM »

EMP Stewart pumps can achieve the results you are looking for. I do not believe that the normal aftermarket stuff will work at B-ville. You need to look at the whole package. I would call them and discuss, I have worked with them on the OEM and aftermarket level. Everything is different, you need heat transfer, it is hot on the salt at speedweek and you keep the engine up in rpm and make power for a long time. It is a ratio, hp, time, capacity. You need to look at all of the variables. I worked on engine cooling for a long time to feed my family. smiley
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