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Author Topic: Maxton Belly Tanker  (Read 16774 times)
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Rchop
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« Reply #15 on: February 04, 2009, 05:57:53 PM »

The GSXR fuel tank I bought on eBay came in today. I hooked everything up, added fuel and rolled the test stand to the door with the exhaust pointed outside. She started right up...proof of life!


I have ordered a TRE for the motor and now it's time to start looking for a body.
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« Reply #16 on: February 04, 2009, 06:08:42 PM »

Randy,
That engine sounds strong ... you even hooked up the radiator ... I especially like the handle bars ... cool ride?

Joe
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Rchop
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« Reply #17 on: February 04, 2009, 06:10:53 PM »

Randy,
That engine sounds strong ... you even hooked up the radiator ... I especially like the handle bars ... cool ride?

Joe

Hmmmm, a seat on the test stand! A least I don't have to stand aroung going "vroom, vroom" any more LOL
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« Reply #18 on: February 04, 2009, 06:49:38 PM »

Thats kind of where I am at right now, sit on the bike(no motor), close my eyes,with a vision of Bonneville go vroom vroom. shocked
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WORLDS FASTEST PRODUCTION MOTORCYCLE 213.470
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« Reply #19 on: February 04, 2009, 07:23:13 PM »

I think we've all done that Fred grin grin
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« Reply #20 on: February 04, 2009, 08:58:26 PM »

Hoping to get a little 2 wheel fix this weekend on my VFR rolleyes
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WORLDS FASTEST PRODUCTION MOTORCYCLE 213.470
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Rex Schimmer
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« Reply #21 on: February 05, 2009, 10:21:03 AM »

So Randy, is that "test stand" in your kitchen?

What is the deal with having the fuel tank, is there a sensor in it that is required to make the ECU run the engine?? I am also planning a small lakester and want to use a GSX-R 1000 motor but I really don't have room for the gas tank.

Dilute my ignorance, Please!

Rex
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Stainless1
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« Reply #22 on: February 05, 2009, 10:37:09 AM »

Rex, if you use the stock fuel pump, it is in tank... he won't be using that tank in the car I'm sure.  You can cut one up for a fuel pump mount, I've done that on the bike instead of making one. 
Or as I suggested earlier, use an external pump and a return flow regulator. 
There are several things you need to overcome in the car, if you don't have the stock key switch (it has an anti-theft feature not shown in the diagram) you need to put a resistor in one of the lines.  I think all this was in a thread a couple of years ago. 
How soon will your lakester be ready, point us to you build diary so we don't hijack Randy's...  grin
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Stainless
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MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #23 on: February 05, 2009, 12:07:30 PM »

So Randy, is that "test stand" in your kitchen?

What is the deal with having the fuel tank, is there a sensor in it that is required to make the ECU run the engine?? I am also planning a small lakester and want to use a GSX-R 1000 motor but I really don't have room for the gas tank.

Dilute my ignorance, Please!

Rex

Rex, the test stand is in my small shop attached to my garage. It's getting pretty full right now, so I'm building a larger one. You can see the new shop thread here: http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,5407.0.html

I'm using the stock tank just for testing just because it's "plug and play". It's easy to use for any GSXR motor I want to test on the stand. I will be building a seperate fuel tank with fuel pump and regulator as Stainless has suggested for the lakester build. There are just 3 wires going into the pump, 2 for the motor, one for the low fuel indicator. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm assuming a direct connect to an external Bosh or Walbro fuel pump will work just fine...am I right Stainless?
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« Reply #24 on: February 05, 2009, 01:16:38 PM »

Only if you first put in larger wires, and get rid of the 5 am fuel pump relay... I would (and we did) use those wires to actuate a 40 amp relay with #10 wire to the Walbro pump... learned the hard way when we ran out of Fuel pressure due to not enough electrons making it down the wires to the pump... 
We used the stock pump on the Busa (external 99 model) and the original relay until we ran turbo.  Switched to bigger wire, but forgot about that little relay until we got back and started troubleshooting our fuel problem.  Couldn't rev the motor past 7000 without going lean.  Didn't have that problem 08....

Note, your stock pump is internally regulated and could be used if you stay normally aspirated.  It is easier but might as well build for the future when you want to go faster and faster and faster....  grin
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #25 on: February 05, 2009, 01:36:52 PM »

That's great info Bob, thanks. I will make the wiring plan to add a larger fuel pump relay.
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« Reply #26 on: February 06, 2009, 11:47:07 PM »

Stainless,
I am probably not ready to start a build site, my lakester is still mostly drawing velum, sketches and some calculations. Probably won't actually be fabricating much for at least another year or two. I plan to retire in 2010 so that is my target start date. Might get some of the small machine parts that I already have drawings for started but that's about it. I am going to watch Randy's build to see if I can learn a little.

Rex
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« Reply #27 on: February 08, 2009, 12:08:12 AM »

Off the cuff idea, here.  Years ago I wanted to build a belly tank car, but it didn't happen....however.... during my planning I realized that a solid rear axle (with the wheels wide enough for a belly tank) would probably eat up some of the power from a very small engine.

I think a person could get around it by using the rear axle from a small rear wheel drive car, with the pinion removed (and hole plugged), flipped over, and the back of the axle housing cut out for chain runs.  This would allow for a differential, and you could run sealed bearings in the carrier to eliminate oil in the housing.  Removing the ring gear would leave room for a sprocket.

The rear end I was looking at was from a Starlet or early Corolla 1200, because the ring gear size was only about 6" on those (so I could get a small enough sprocket to fit).  You could also use old MG Midget, early Datsun 1200, etc.  I figured it'd make it easer to mount an axle, because the old RWD housings are fully welded and plenty stiff.  Brakes are already there, also, so that's one less thing to figure out or buy.

Just an idea....

Good luck with your project!!

JimL
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oz
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« Reply #28 on: February 08, 2009, 05:24:24 AM »

Nice one Those belly tanks always look good I wonder how hard it would be to build one for the road.
When we were using Axles for chain drive Trikes back in the day we would use Reliant Rialto or Regal diffs they are in three parts and easy to get sealed bearings for, the sprocket bolts to the crown wheel  and then just plate in the planet whels and put in grease nipples. i dont know if you ever had reliants out there in the US so this probably isnt that helpfull.
I found this page which may shed some light on what i am getting at.the other concern is I aint sure what kind of power they will handle,they seemed fine for the likes of Z1300s but your gixer will be pushing out alot more power.

http://spaceport1.co.uk/yodaofbo/tech/diff%20ratios/Reliant_axle_info.html

Like the sled in the background.
Good luck Oz
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« Reply #29 on: February 08, 2009, 09:19:19 AM »

Great ideas guys, thanks. Keep them coming!
This is why I posted this thread in the idea/design stage. There is enough experience on this forum that we can find and use proven methods in the build grin
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