Landracing Forum Home
May 24, 2012, 12:00:12 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
BACK TO LANDRACING.COM HOMEPAGE
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Motorcycle Rear Brake Setup  (Read 1389 times)
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
55chevr
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1634



« on: January 24, 2009, 02:23:23 PM »

This year for Bonneville I wanted to reduce the rotating weight and drag from the front brake. So I took the the front caliper and rotor off the bike. It would be tough to load and unload a bike off a pickup bed without a front brake to grab. I decided to use the front master with a long hose back to the rear caliper. Worked out fine. I would prefer to use the rear master with the rear caliper for stopping on the course and still keep the front master option for loading. Is there a way to combine the front master and the rear master with a tee connection into the rear caliper? Do I need a check valve?
Joe
Logged
oz
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 48
Location: Leighton Buzzard GB
Posts: 552


Geordie Power.


« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2009, 02:39:48 PM »

You could use a standard Tee from Goodridge or earls and fit a line lock on the run from the bars to stop the back feeding of the resevoir

http://www.compbrake.co.uk/brake_p4.htm

You could even use a thumb brake like the stunt riders use if you wanted to lose some bulk from the bars.
Just a thought.
Oz
Logged

Newcastle born and bred a City built on Coal and Steel and a people built of stronger stuff
bak189
Guest
« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2009, 04:49:45 PM »

For loading and unloading without a frt. brake....
..........put it in low gear and use engine comp. and the clutch lever.....................very simple.............










Logged
55chevr
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1634



« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2009, 05:37:16 PM »

Tried that but the clutch drags just a bit too much when loading ... Joe
Logged
krusty
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 149


« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2009, 06:59:36 PM »

Put a small shut-off valve in the front brake line before you tee the front and rear lines together. Once you've unloaded, close the valve. Check with your local oval track late model/sprint car supplier for the valve; they're commonly used in those environments.   vic
Logged
55chevr
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1634



« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2009, 08:47:35 PM »

Vic ... found a valve in Speedway catalog that will do that .... thanks ... Joe
Logged
ol38y
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 57
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 590


When all else fails, gas it!


« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2009, 09:08:10 PM »

I could be wrong but, you're gonna need 2 valves aren't ya. One to isolate each master cylinder.

Hooking the rear brake to the front master cyl. seems much simpler. KISS theory

Just my 2c 
Logged

Larry Cason
Bakersfield,CA    It's a dry heat!

2010 BUB 1350 M-PG record
1212FBGS
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 51
Location: Vista, Ca
Posts: 2450


WWW
« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2009, 11:01:39 PM »

you cant have 2 m/cyl in line... when 1 m/c pressurizes it bleeds out the compensating port of the other m/c... you cant put in a 1 way check valve cuz it wont release pressure
kent
Logged
bak189
Guest
« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2009, 11:07:40 PM »

If your clutch drags to much for loading and unloading get a aftermarket Barnett clutch.....
.....very simple............................................................
Logged
1212FBGS
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 51
Location: Vista, Ca
Posts: 2450


WWW
« Reply #9 on: January 25, 2009, 04:32:08 AM »

yep if all the release stuff checks out OK its usually warped plates.... i've been using Barnett stuff for a long time, good stuff, great people... get yourself some
Kent
Logged
oz
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 48
Location: Leighton Buzzard GB
Posts: 552


Geordie Power.


« Reply #10 on: January 25, 2009, 05:25:17 AM »

or mount two rear calipers its easy no tees no valves or use a late model cbr1000 it has two indepependant inputs if i remember rightly
Logged

Newcastle born and bred a City built on Coal and Steel and a people built of stronger stuff
saltwheels262
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 58
Location: cuyahoga county
Posts: 598


LORING 7/11


« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2009, 10:11:18 AM »

 two people are needed to load mine each time on to anything. i am always on left and

#2 on right. #2 operates rear brake pedal while pushing/stabilizing bike. have tried in gear with clutch; ezr w/ pedal  operation.

franey
Logged

bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill      
max 10/07 - a/pf   d license
bub '08 - 153.697 a/pf   pump gas
bub '09 - 156.377 aps/pf  ran out of gear
lta  '10 - 158.208  2 much gear 2x
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
                probably it for that mill, as is.
ohio - 185.076 w/#684
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.16 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!


Google visited last this page May 08, 2012, 04:04:10 AM