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55chevr
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« on: January 24, 2009, 02:23:23 PM » |
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This year for Bonneville I wanted to reduce the rotating weight and drag from the front brake. So I took the the front caliper and rotor off the bike. It would be tough to load and unload a bike off a pickup bed without a front brake to grab. I decided to use the front master with a long hose back to the rear caliper. Worked out fine. I would prefer to use the rear master with the rear caliper for stopping on the course and still keep the front master option for loading. Is there a way to combine the front master and the rear master with a tee connection into the rear caliper? Do I need a check valve? Joe
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oz
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Geordie Power.
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« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2009, 02:39:48 PM » |
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You could use a standard Tee from Goodridge or earls and fit a line lock on the run from the bars to stop the back feeding of the resevoir http://www.compbrake.co.uk/brake_p4.htmYou could even use a thumb brake like the stunt riders use if you wanted to lose some bulk from the bars. Just a thought. Oz
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Newcastle born and bred a City built on Coal and Steel and a people built of stronger stuff
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bak189
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2009, 04:49:45 PM » |
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For loading and unloading without a frt. brake.... ..........put it in low gear and use engine comp. and the clutch lever.....................very simple.............
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55chevr
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2009, 05:37:16 PM » |
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Tried that but the clutch drags just a bit too much when loading ... Joe
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krusty
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2009, 06:59:36 PM » |
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Put a small shut-off valve in the front brake line before you tee the front and rear lines together. Once you've unloaded, close the valve. Check with your local oval track late model/sprint car supplier for the valve; they're commonly used in those environments. vic
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55chevr
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« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2009, 08:47:35 PM » |
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Vic ... found a valve in Speedway catalog that will do that .... thanks ... Joe
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ol38y
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« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2009, 09:08:10 PM » |
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I could be wrong but, you're gonna need 2 valves aren't ya. One to isolate each master cylinder.
Hooking the rear brake to the front master cyl. seems much simpler. KISS theory
Just my 2c
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Larry Cason Bakersfield,CA It's a dry heat!
2010 BUB 1350 M-PG record
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1212FBGS
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« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2009, 11:01:39 PM » |
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you cant have 2 m/cyl in line... when 1 m/c pressurizes it bleeds out the compensating port of the other m/c... you cant put in a 1 way check valve cuz it wont release pressure kent
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bak189
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« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2009, 11:07:40 PM » |
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If your clutch drags to much for loading and unloading get a aftermarket Barnett clutch..... .....very simple............................................................
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1212FBGS
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« Reply #9 on: January 25, 2009, 04:32:08 AM » |
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yep if all the release stuff checks out OK its usually warped plates.... i've been using Barnett stuff for a long time, good stuff, great people... get yourself some Kent
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oz
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Geordie Power.
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« Reply #10 on: January 25, 2009, 05:25:17 AM » |
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or mount two rear calipers its easy no tees no valves or use a late model cbr1000 it has two indepependant inputs if i remember rightly
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Newcastle born and bred a City built on Coal and Steel and a people built of stronger stuff
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saltwheels262
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LORING 7/11
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« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2009, 10:11:18 AM » |
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two people are needed to load mine each time on to anything. i am always on left and
#2 on right. #2 operates rear brake pedal while pushing/stabilizing bike. have tried in gear with clutch; ezr w/ pedal operation.
franey
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg 120" crate street mill max 10/07 - a/pf d license bub '08 - 153.697 a/pf pump gas bub '09 - 156.377 aps/pf ran out of gear lta '10 - 158.208 2 much gear 2x bub '10 - 158.100 sweetooth gear lta 7/11 -163.389 7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450 probably it for that mill, as is. ohio - 185.076 w/#684
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