Remote water pump Push or Pull

[RichFox]

If you use a radiator you need to run air through it. Drag. A reasonable amount of water will act as a heat sink to absorb the excess heat for the short time we run with out the drag associated with the radiator. Except when I ran turbocharged I made a lot more heat and needed more water than I had made provision for.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Another reason a water tank is better is because the air flow past the radiator ....it has to go somewhere; usually it heats up the engine bay and is sucked under the car. This heated air is no prob if you have a traditional ride. If you intend to have a belly pan you now have to find somewhere with equal or greater air flow than the incoming air to exit the vehicle. This heated air and its method for exit can cause flow disruptions and even more drag then just the obvious air going in.

I read somewhere that a radiator causes about 20% of your overall drag. I don’t know if this is true but I wouldn’t take a chance!

Our class (MS) dictates you have a radiator and I do have one. I will however not say how functional it is.
 

[Stan Back]

Cajun --

An 18-gallon water tank (in our case 1/4" bottom and 1/8" sides and top) takes up less space than an 18-gallon radiator.  And you can put it where you need it.

18 gallons may seem like a lot, but it's doing double duty.  And remember, 5 miles is more than 1 mile.

Our pump is belt driven off the front of the motor -- no one needs to remember to turn it on.

Stan Back

[836dstr]

Just like Dallas said, working ballast. I also run a 20 gallon tank in my Street Roadster, with a radiator required by class rules  but not needed for cooling. My custom aluminum tank is right behind the seat and in front of the frame kick-up, hence in front of the rear axle.

I love it when you can have one thing perform more than one function (i.e. one bracket holding several items).

Tom

[Cajun Kid]

Thannks for the info,,, I think the Stude will have a water tank not a radiator...

Can some one give me info on belt driven water pump ?

Does this do away with the traditional water pump mounted to my block?

Charles

[1212FBGS]

the only problem with a belt drive is that it only works when the motor is running..... I heat my water to 130f and turn on the pump to warm and expand the motor(s) then after the run i keep the pump on to slowly bring the blocks back down... it makes a huge difference in keeping a head gasket in a high boost motor...
kent

[Cajun Kid]

Kent,  can you post pics of your tank, plumbing and pumps set up ?

Good info,

Thanks

Charles

[SPARKY]

There are others that run a conventional radiator in a tank of water--with belt driven water pumps.

I have converted a small alum. radiator into a two pass heat exchanger by blocking of the center of one side tank with a inserted baffel and moving the hose outlet from the other end to the other. This is inserted in a 12 gallon tank that I am able to reverse flow the water from the 25 gallon tank at ther rear of the car with a big Mesiers pump mounted at the bottom of the car.   I have another pump on the outlet so that I can pump the front tank dry to warm up only the eng coolant and eng oil---the heater hose connections are used to heat the dry sump oil resevior coil unit.  May be overkill but I hope to some day have to handle the problem Rich Fox talked about.

[Leon]

Also, a heads up. Rules for 2009 will elminate any cooling liquid other than pure water. The exception will be the allowed use of a product such as Water Wetter or Purple Ice.

I heard that it was any coolant that was non-flammable.  Wouldn't that allow for conventional coolants in a mix with water?  I would imagine that water would transfer heat better with something like Water Wetter or Purple Ice.

[dwarner]

Nope, that is not the way it was presented. Check with your source.

DW

[1212FBGS]

if your cooling system cant do the job with straight water its time to redesign..
kent