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Author Topic: Turbo plenum  (Read 52500 times)
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maj
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« Reply #195 on: November 21, 2008, 02:29:57 AM »

That aeromotive is hungry for electrons too, had one on my bike for a while , actually wore my regulator out, pump supplies 8 lit/min and the bike needed 2 lit/min  , charging system couldn't keep up with the demand , went back to a bosch 044.
kept the aeromotive pump in case i try methanol.
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bharmon77
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« Reply #196 on: November 21, 2008, 07:50:14 AM »

Thank you to everyone for your input as always I have learned a lot more then I expected. Johnny I may take you up on your offer to buy your Mallory pump and regulator, please email details to BHarmon77@yahoo.com. I now have (2) stock Hayabusa batteries in the car wired for 12V to the system, it sounds like this may not be enough battery for these fuel pumps? Or is it just a matter of wire size?

BHarmon 
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Stainless1
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« Reply #197 on: November 21, 2008, 11:09:05 AM »

You could consider each battery for separate duties, that might help you cause if you are not running an alternator.  Any reason you are not running a large automotive battery? (ballast) As we found wire size to get the power to the pump is important.  The pump went to the pressure the electricity would support, no higher.  With everything else running that number was a little shy of the target so we ran only as fast as the  A/F ratio would allow. 
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #198 on: November 21, 2008, 03:57:05 PM »

Stainless,

I have room for a large automotive battery. No reason that I cannot switch, I first figured that if it was good enough for the bike it would work in the car. Now I know better, thank you for the help.

Bruce Harmon
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #199 on: November 21, 2008, 05:13:50 PM »

This is something to consider:

The stock hayabusa stator puts out 400 watts @ about 14v.
(even a "high output" stator is only making 500 watts @ 13v).
This is plenty for the bike.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

My logic last year was to use 2 optima yellows (800cca deep) and charge them before each run with a massive battery charger I have (it came from a truck shop charging about 20 batteries at once).

The problem is that if you charge a battery(s) @ 12 volts (usually a good charger will put out like 12.75) the battery at rest is only at best 12 volts (often 11.5-11.75v) but as soon as you turn on a big draw item the voltage goes to poop. This is like turning the ignition on in your car and watch the volt meter when you turn on the lights. Even though we had 2 batteries as soon as everything was on, the voltage dropped to around 10 volts and maintained. We could of likely maintained this amount of draw for a few hours with the 2 batteries but the voltage was lower than what was needed to spin the water pumps (2X), fuel pump, air compressor and ignition.

We noted that when everything was on when we hooked up the battery charger the pump motors would spin much faster. This should have been a clue that we would have a problem of some sort. And because the stock busa stator only makes 400 watts output this would be the equal to trying to fly a 747 with a RC motor....it just doesnít have enough to run all the stuff or at worst it would smoke. (because voltage goes to point of least resistance the stator would TRY to power everything even if you have 10 batteries, the stator would try and make higher than 12v....this is why it would make the attempt).

------------------------------------------------------------------


It is this reason that I will run 16 volts next year.
What will happen is that battery will be charged to 16 but as soon as everything is turned on it will immediately drop a few volts (I assume to around 14v). I anticipate that it should not have any problems in maintaining voltage <12v through the 5 miles.

But....at least as far as I can see it....

It is far better to start with 16v....loose 4 in the run and be at 12v at the end of a run as apposed to
starting with 12....loose 4 and ending with 8v at the end of the 5 (and at the 5th is where the greatest draw is on the system with high RPM and most fuel being needed).

-----------------------------------------------------------

Sparky mentioned using an alternator.....I am toying with the idea....but it seems like a problem to hook on up to the busa motor!

« Last Edit: November 21, 2008, 05:18:11 PM by Jonny Hotnuts » Logged

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« Reply #200 on: November 21, 2008, 05:48:23 PM »

You sure about those voltages?  I've got it in mind to expect 13.8V minimum from the charger going into the battery, with something in the low 14's more like it.  And the voltage of a standard wet cell is 2.1 volts, so your battery really should have 12.6 volts showing at rest (assuming fully charged so the load of the voltmeter doesn't draw it down, and a voltmeter won't draw much current so if the meter does draw down the voltage -- you've got a funky battery).  ANyway, the 13.8 and 12.6 numbers are what I used in the day when I was doing lots of ham radio stuff in the cars -- and had to know what I'd get to build the corect stuff.

I assume the Optima batteries are similar in voltage characteristics to traditional lead-acid.
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« Reply #201 on: November 21, 2008, 07:19:53 PM »

what kind of aircompressor are you powering during the run
and why...??

and that motor makes upwards of 600hp + with one water pump...
why do you need to power 2..?......

and additionally that motor
can make near all that power all day long...making 13.5 volts plus
with the stock charging system....and one little motorcycle battery...


curious ...Joe Smiley
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #202 on: November 21, 2008, 08:33:45 PM »

Quote
what kind of aircompressor are you powering during the run
and why...??

and that motor makes upwards of 600hp + with one water pump...
why do you need to power 2..?......

and additionally that motor
can make near all that power all day long...making 13.5 volts plus
with the stock charging system....and one little motorcycle battery...


curious ...Joe

1. compressor = Viair http://www.viaircorp.com/
This runs the air shifter and pulls a pin that removes the left side lateral head restraint (also has manual pull)

2. The stock WP is removed for chain routing. I have a water tank for cooling and over 25' of 1.25" copper piping with a 3' raise. One pump runs water from the tank to the back of the car, the other pump pushes it through the motor. The system was designed by an engineer from Meziere. http://www.meziere.com/ (IMO the finest electric water pump available).

3. Again, the stock stator makes a mere 400 watts output thatís it.

This means that 400 watts output makes about 29 amps @ 13.5v.
The water pumps I use draw about 22 amps total (11 each)Ö.this leaves about 7 amps to power the ECU, fuel pump, fans, or whatever else you have. It just isnít enough.
If you try and run much more than a few lights I can promise you will:

A- make low voltage
or
B- Smoke a rectifier or stator.


-JH
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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
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« Reply #203 on: November 22, 2008, 12:12:33 AM »

yo nutz
im running 2 motors, 2 starters, 2 ecu's, 2 ignitions, 2 sets of coils, 2 kinsler fuel pumps, 2 meziere w/pumps, 1 shureflow w/pump and 1 viair airpump, 1 data aq all off of 2 cheep napa batteries... no alternator and 1 can go 1 whole race weekend without recharge......i suspect thet your battery supply cable is too small...step up to 2/0 cable
kent
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bharmon77
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« Reply #204 on: November 30, 2008, 04:34:25 PM »

Johnny,

Don't know if you have any experience with this problem, but my car is a front engine Hayabusa, shaft drive. I have removed the sprocket and replaced it with a drive shaft adapter, this eliminated the speed sensor and the speed sensor rotor on the sprocket. Can you run the motor without the speed sensor? If not is there a way to relocate it or wire around the problem?

Bruce Harmon
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WildBro
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« Reply #205 on: November 30, 2008, 06:19:09 PM »

Johnny,

Don't know if you have any experience with this problem, but my car is a front engine Hayabusa, shaft drive. I have removed the sprocket and replaced it with a drive shaft adapter, this eliminated the speed sensor and the speed sensor rotor on the sprocket. Can you run the motor without the speed sensor? If not is there a way to relocate it or wire around the problem?

Bruce Harmon

I do not run a speed sensor, no problems.

Bill
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #206 on: November 30, 2008, 09:04:03 PM »

Bill beat me to it!
Only drawback is that the speedo wont work.
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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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« Reply #207 on: November 30, 2008, 11:09:09 PM »

Bruce, we agree, haven't used the speed sensor on the busa motor in the Bockscar.  The sensor output is not a requirement for the ECU to run the motor properly. 
JNuts, speedometer?  The busa speedo is grossly inaccurate above 130 anyway, and since the wheels and gearing are different it doesn't matter...  undecided
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #208 on: December 01, 2008, 12:04:40 AM »

really.?.!.... are you using a 16 bit or 32 bit ecu? are ya using some kind of TRE?
kent
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bharmon77
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« Reply #209 on: December 01, 2008, 06:45:17 AM »

Thank you to everyone who replied, if I do not need the speed sensor then that is good news, actualy with a night to sleep on it I was concerned that the speed sensor might be where the computer picks up engine RPM that is used to control ignition timing? The wiring harness and motor are 2006, I was told that this is an upgraded ECU? 16 or 32 bit I don't know? What is a TRE?   

Bruce Harmon
7077 H/BFL
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