53 Stude Frame for LSR

[John (Maryland)]

Greetings and hello.

Does anyone have any thoughts about the strength of the existing frame of a 53 Studebaker for LSR?  The question basically concerns whether it is better to build a new square-frame package with A arms and ladder bars or to modify the front and rear suspension of the existing frame. The current frame is in reasonable shape and the engine could ultimately be up to about 700HP.

R.
John Schell.
Maryland.

[hotrod]

I had a 53 Studebaker Champion that I ended up grafting a Chrysler Hemi into (392). In the process I grafted a 58 Dodge front frame section on it, and the difference in thickness between the frame sections was an issue when it came time to weld them together.

I would say not recommended. The stock frame material is awfully thin and I don't think you could get a reliable tie in for the cage, without a lot of effort boxing and gusseting the frame, and you would always be worried that the frame would give up at the lightest hit and peel the cage off.

Larry.

[RichFox]

I am told that the V8 frames are thicker. When putting the V8 in my 6 cylinder Lark, we were concerned about welding motormounts to such thin metal and added structer to try to spread the load.

[jimmy six]

You don't say what class you are building it for but remember by our rule book Gas Coupe must have the original frame. Good Luck

[Stan Back]

It's my understanding that Studebaker used a heavier gauge frame starting in '54.  I've read that they prototyped the '53s with 6-cylinders and the lighter gauge and when production started they had all sorts of body alignment problems with the V-8-powered cars.  I'd check out going to the heavier gauge if you've got to stick to the stocker.

[GH]

I would sugest building your own frame and use a straight front axle. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

[John (Maryland)]

All.

Thanks for responding, the information is most helpful.

I am in the "design" stage considering either Altered and Gas Coupe knowing there are different rules to take into account.

Again, thanks for the info.

John Schell.

[Dave Cox]

Hi John. I've got some of the later (heavier) frames available. Unfortunately I'm on the West Coast. If I can help just let me know.

Dave

[DavidinDurango]

We are in the middle of a '53 ford pickup project . .

What I hear 9 times a day is:

"if you are going to drive this thing xxxmiles per hour we need to add a (crossmember, gusset, another crossmember, 9 more gussets, etc)"

so I would say:  Pick the easy way to do it right BEFORE you start.

poorer and wiser I remain,

David in Durango

[John (Maryland)]

TNXs for the info. everyone; it is appreciated.   

[will6er]

I am starting a 1953 Studebaker build and can anyone tell me what years of heavier frames will replace the 1953 6-cyl frame, and do they require modification to fit?

Thanks

Will6er

[snap daddy]

Me too!!  ^^^

[Cajun Kid]

My 53 Champion has a thin frame (.078) the 1954  and up V* frmaes from what I understand have a heavier (.120) frame.

Since I will be running in E/CGALT class I can modify or replace the frame.

I to will not trust the thin frame, so I am smoking over several ideas (none of which are cheap since I can not do any welding myself) man I could have saved a ton of $ on my last 2 projects if I could only weld.

1. I can take .125 thick C chanel and weld over the existing hat chanel of the main rails, graft a new rear section with ladder bars or 4 link/panhard setup and coilovers.
and then use either a dropped straight axle with leaf springs, or Mustang II or aftermarket IFS with coilovers up front.

2. I could have someone build a boxed frame front to rear all new.

3. I could get one of the Nascar or chassis shops around here to build me a straight rail main rail chassis with full tube cage, but them guys don't useually biuld door cars ?

Still in the design stage, but have the car and the motor, just waiting till November to get started.

Charles