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Author Topic: How do I crack the cussed thing open?  (Read 2125 times)
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uglydog56
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« on: July 25, 2008, 08:49:31 PM »

I have an A-10 drop tank I am using for my lakester body.  It has a seam on the bottom with about a hundred phillips head screws that are the swastika-looking jobs (tighten only).  I need to break this seam so I can take the center piece out and shorten it.  How do I get these stupid screws out?  So far that have successfully destroyed several bits for my impact (the one you hit with a hammer) and the impact powered by air, and about 5 drill bits.  I think it is laughing at me.  Anyone have any experience with these?  You cant get to the nut inserts on the other side.
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manta22
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« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2008, 09:43:26 PM »

If they are what I'm thinking of, they look kind of like a Phillips head but not quite. These are quite common on aerospace hardware; you can find bits that fit them on eBay. I forget their exact name but maybe someone else does.
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kip305
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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2008, 09:45:08 PM »

ugllydog56:   I don't know the shape of the slot, however, could a sadistic engineer have used a left hand thread. If so, i am sure you can hear faint laughter.
Good luck, Kip305
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Glen
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« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2008, 10:01:34 PM »

The aircraft ind. has a special bit to remove the tri-type screws. The bit has a serated side to back them out. I believe Apex makes them.Hope this helps.
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Glen

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uglydog56
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« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2008, 10:10:53 PM »

Thanks I'll start looking for the bit then.
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RichFox
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« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2008, 10:57:43 PM »

Not try-wings I hope? If so I have a few bits.
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MCR
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« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2008, 11:03:52 PM »

If it's a cross head, like a Phillips, but each "blade" is offset to the center, we called them Torq Set screws.  What I would do if you cannot find the right driver, is to get a left hand drill bit and drill them out.

But McMaster Carr is your buddy.  www.mcmaster.com type in:  36735A49 and take a peak.  PG 2773
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2008, 11:28:24 PM »

Looking at it from the weldor's point of view, I'd just put a little tig build up on each head then use the trusty vise-grips. grin This is a perfect application because you should let the screw cool before you try to unscrew it and by the time you put all the welds on the first ones would be cool. Usually impatience wins and you have to weld more than once.

Pete

SORRY, DUMB IDEA ------ FUEL TANK!!!!!!!

PJ
« Last Edit: July 26, 2008, 01:14:03 PM by Peter Jack » Logged

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Stainless1
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« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2008, 11:40:59 PM »

Are you planning to use the seam on the car?  if not, plasma cutter will remove the seam in about 5 minutes and the tank will be open.
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Stainless 
 MSA Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
 Builder of Bike 278 1000cc APS-G,  Kids Red Hat Record 208.959 (old PS rules)
 Other kids A-G record 179.172  Josh O record 182.266
 Co-owner of the Amo Steele Streamliner, #1411... still sorting
Sumner
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« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2008, 09:54:09 AM »

Are you planning to use the seam on the car?  if not, plasma cutter will remove the seam in about 5 minutes and the tank will be open.

Glad you brought that up.  I need to cut the nose out of ................



............ these tanks soon.  As far as I can figure they are from the 50's.  I would think any fuel residue would be long gone, but I hate welding/cutting on something that in my mind might explode.  Would you have any reservations about taking the plasma cutter to them?

c ya soon depending on if I get the correct answer here.....now back to the screws,

Sum
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Richard Thomason
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« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2008, 09:59:09 AM »

If you are worried about combustion, run the exhaust of your truck into the tank and weld or cut with confidence.
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2008, 10:13:05 AM »

Sum:

As I get older I get less and less brave. I've used several different methods over the years but the only one I use now is to steam the tank and then do what's necessary while it's still warm. I prefer to check it with an explosimeter but if the tank's good and hot it's safe.

I've known a couple of people over the years who have cut into "old rain barrels". One was killed and one suffered a concussion and a broken shoulder. It makes me cautious.

If I were doing it I'd use a saw.

Pete
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My avatar shows Tok, a 100# Alaskan Malamute.
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Sumner
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« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2008, 10:20:24 AM »

................If I were doing it I'd use a saw.
Pete

I was going to use a saw so I'll continue with that approach.  It shouldn't take long with a zawzall.  I recently welded a sump in the truck gas tank and before I've cleaned and blown them out myself.  This time I spent $50 and had someone else clean it and check it with their explosive meter and felt much safer when I started welding.

c ya,

Sum
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willieworld
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« Reply #13 on: July 26, 2008, 10:22:57 AM »

sum how much af the tanks are you going to use   willie
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willie-dpombatmir-buchta
Stainless1
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« Reply #14 on: July 26, 2008, 12:33:49 PM »

Sum, did they have inert tags on them... if not use your nose in the filler hole.  If it smells like gas or diesel, carefully cut with the sawzall, if there is any liquid left in them, swab a little out and try to burn it.  Most tanks disposed of by the military are inert before surplussed
WYA....
See ya on the salt  cool
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Stainless 
 MSA Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
 Builder of Bike 278 1000cc APS-G,  Kids Red Hat Record 208.959 (old PS rules)
 Other kids A-G record 179.172  Josh O record 182.266
 Co-owner of the Amo Steele Streamliner, #1411... still sorting
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