roadster weights ?

[Roadster943]

I am in the later stages of building a D/G roadster. I have most of the mechcanicals in. Now I need to start thinking about ballast.What am I looking for as far as total car weight? Do I want it even front to backside to side, or??? I do understand I need to keep the weight LOW!! Thanks Roadster943

[Roadster943]

Whoops  Sorry Joe I got this in the wrong spot. I sorry, I am new to this and Obviously not too good at it . I have no idea how to get it to the right spot now that I started this. I hope to do better next time. Roadster943
 
  <small>[ March 03, 2004, 01:02 AM: Message edited by: Roadster943 ]</small>

[Bob Beatty]

Roadster923, you are right about keeping any ballast low.  You also should make sure it is well secured. One of the tricks of keeping these cars pointed the direction you want to go is the "dart concept".  The dart concept means you keep the center of gravity (the weighted point of the dart) ahead of the center of drag (the feathers).
 We used to think we had to run a bunch of balast in a roadster - we ran ours at about 3800# (220 MPH, C/GR).  Many of the faster roadsters today seem to be 2500# to 3000#. We'll be looking forward to seeing your new toy on the salt.

[LSR Mike]

Try Lead shot in the Frame Rails. Weight is low, and distributed. You just have to stand the Car on it's end!
 
 Mike M.
 847 F/P/MP

[c/pickup]

I got to tell you lead shot in the frame rails is a great idea. I would have never thought of that in a million years. Dude, you should have worked with nasa.

[terry russell]

old stock car trick make tech. let the lead during the race.

[jimmy six]

My suggestions are close to the others. I don't know the configuration of you frame but the center of the car ahead of the rear axle is best. Try not to put too much in the rear unless thats all you got...As Bob said don't forget the arrow doesn't go straight without front weight. Mine ran 215 at 3500# wet with driver. Spun at 185 at 2800# My split was 42% front 58% rear. Good Luck....J.D.

[Dean Los Angeles]

I mentioned the lead shot in the frame rails to a kart buddy years ago. He put the lead shot in, and had the plug come out during the race. It sure was interesting to see everybody behind him sail off the track!

[promachine]

A D/G engine at about 600-700 hp could run at about 3200-3600 lbs.
Beg, borrow or steal a set of scales and start off at around 40% in the
fronte and 60% in the rear. Left to right should be even.
Set up your car so that you can add or subtract weight as needed.
You might want less weight at El Mirage and more at B-ville
The rear tires will allways try to pass the frontes if you get out of shape,
even if your off the throttle. The best way to keep a roadster going
straight is the keep rotating the earth, when she noses over or runs
out of power or gets pedaled to much she just won`t go straight.
Remember that its the rear tires pushing the car foreward that will
keep the car going where you point it....
Thats what works for me and I am sure the opinions will vary, but
everybody will agree that the weight needs to be low in the car, and
don`t take any shortcuts on safety items.

[1212FBGS]

do not tech your car and add or change stuff. Tech your car as you plan to run.

[sickracer]

do not tech your car and add or change stuff. Tech your car as you plan to run.

We don't need another El Mirage problem     Tech and rules are there for a reason.......

[Stan Back]

Roadster943 -- Did you get my Private Message (I'm new at this!)?

[Nortonist 592]

Hey Stan,    What the tonnage on your roadster?  Or even just the frame?

[Stan Back]

Our C and D Street Roadster weighs 3000 pounds wet with driver with absolutely no ballast.  It's about 55% rear and 45% front.  It's a steel-bodied Model A with a 1/4-inch boxed frame, mounted very low.  The rear end is over the frame.  It has an 18-gallon water tank in the rear.  It's run 209+ on the salt and the tach is just as good as a speedometer.  If it's slipping, we can't tell.  We don't know the weight of the bare frame, but we sure can't pick it up.  It gets deeper, and wider, towards the back to a maximum of about 5" width and 12" depth.  The frame is segmented inside to allow us to add shot, but so far the air inside is sufficient.  Al Simon built it.  Last year we ran El Mirage for the first time with the C motor and went 189, just what the tach said.  Later in the year we put the D motor in and only went 173 (with the wrong, C motor, gear).  We hope to re-gear it for El Mirage later this year and do a little better, but that D record of the Barbees' is real stout!  The car has had the same owner for over 40 years and is still licensed for the street and could someday return.

[Stan Back]

And as a further thought, now we find it would probably be good to lighten it up a little, especially for the D motor at El Mirage.  But we're stuck except for draining off some of the water (or a major rebuild, which is not going to happen).