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Author Topic: Wet versus Dry Nitrous Systems  (Read 13578 times)
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Flyboy
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« on: July 17, 2007, 12:42:58 AM »

Could people please tell me the major advantages of wet versus dry? And what size bottle/bottles should one use if it can't go under the seat?

It appears to me the dry system is cheaper, easier to put on but not very efficient.

The wet is more expensive, harder to put on, but offers more efficiency. What are most people running? Comments?
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firemanjim
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« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2007, 12:57:01 AM »

Need to know what its going on--dry is for a fuel injected motor and you need some way to bump fuel pressure to add fuel in conjunction with nitrous. You do not want to go lean, things burn/break.
Wet system adds fuel with nitrous, 2 solenoids, extra fuel pump etc, but better way to add lots of nitrous safely.
Look at www.suzukihayabusa.org or www.dragbike.com in their nitrous sections,lots of info.
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« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2007, 04:04:45 AM »

i never used dry.... isn't it only good for tiny shots like 30 or 40... any thing less than a hun is a waist of time..!.... i think its kinda risky without the proper amount of fuel. dont waist your time and go for the real thing. right joe?
kent
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hayaboosta
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« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2007, 08:29:43 AM »

Flyboy, I am not sure how the ZX14 reacts to the dry shot, but I would suggest nothing less than a "modified" wet shot if not full wet for LSR. 

The modified wet shot incorporates a electronic device that will increase the duty cycle of your injectors to compensate for the nitrous.  Check out http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/fi01.asp

A true dry shot relies upon the inlet air temp sensor (IAT) to pick up the decreased temperature of the inlet air charge (the nitrogen of the nitrous) when nitrous is introduced to the airbox.  The limitation that Kent spoke of is the ability of the IAT to read the change and the range of influance the IAT has on the fueling through the ECU.  That is why dry shots are limited to 20-40 hp and usually used for short durations.
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Dynoroom
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« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2007, 10:32:36 AM »

I've run both wet & dry nitrous systems on some of our record setting engines at Bonneville. If your using efi it's easy to add 150 hp with a dry system. We've run as much as 400 hp with a wet system but it's not as easy as it sounds. This would be for cars so if your talking about bikes I'm not the guy to ask. 
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« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2007, 06:40:41 PM »

true dry shot is NOT relying on an IAT sensor to try to
get the system to compensate appropriately.............

that's a mickey mouse roulette game............

flyboy.....its a matter of application......

bottle size et al......is all dependent on how much
hp ya wanna make and for how long..........

Joe Smiley
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« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2007, 07:37:31 PM »

thats what i said... 30 or 40 shot ain't worth it....I put a 200 shot on my 600 once...... once...lol
kent
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Stainless1
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« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2007, 10:12:57 PM »

Yep Kent, every now and then you can stuff a little too much of a good thing into a motor.  When I turned up the juice on the 1.1L in the lakester the 3 of the Carrillos lived through it...  rolleyes  rolleyes
200 in a 600 doesn't leave much room for regular air.  shocked  grin
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Stainless 
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Flyboy
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« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2007, 10:26:46 AM »

Another question-

I understand a high compression ratio is not desirable for running nitrous and that most bikes should keep them stock..

But what about porting the heads? Is there any benefit to doing it if you are running nitrous? Thanks in advance--
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« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2007, 12:28:06 PM »

oh man... a dedicated nos motor is way different than in asp motor.. no it not about compression ratio.. its modifying the combustion chamber, bigger ex valves, different plugs, different ign timing, and way different cam timing. you will have a hard time finding someone who figured it out to actually tell you everything that made his motor live. Its very expensive cheep hp..lol
kent
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LVMAXX
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« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2007, 03:00:41 PM »

 grin
« Last Edit: October 02, 2009, 02:02:53 PM by LVMAXX » Logged
2fast4u2c
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« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2007, 03:15:34 PM »

Another question-

I understand a high compression ratio is not desirable for running nitrous and that most bikes should keep them stock..

But what about porting the heads? Is there any benefit to doing it if you are running nitrous? Thanks in advance--

I run a high compression Pro-Mod 1397cc motor with a Ward Vortex Head in my Busa.  I use a full wet system at about 150-200hp.  I spray it for over 14 seconds.  When I do it right, I go fast.  When I don't, I don't.

This coming year I have a Dry shot at about 60hp with an instant rich system for the 1st stage.  Then the wet system for the second stage.  Should go faster yet.

Guy

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« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2007, 07:08:22 PM »

Guy,

Just wanted to see how long that setup would have lasted at the salt... 14 seconds is a relatively short period of time...

The guys that have been successful with it on the salt run the juice for 3-4 consecutive miles.. You can calculate the seconds in that at over 200 mph...

Jon
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Flyboy
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« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2007, 08:56:35 PM »

Being a nitrous rookie I figure 27 sec./mile at 225 mph. I have been told a 2# will get you 30 to 40 seconds on a four cylinder motor. So if one runs a 2# shots on both sides of one's bike then it is assumed he would have good acceleration mile 4-6. If the wheel starts spinning on mile 4 then one would have a mile to re gain his traction. Do you vets see any problem with this reasoning? Please let me hear you.
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« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2007, 10:15:36 PM »

So are you saying with 2 2# bottles you are going to run from the 4-5 and the 5-6 so two full miles??? At what HP Level??? That is the Key....

Jon
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