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Author Topic: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)  (Read 607689 times)
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bvillercr
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« Reply #180 on: September 28, 2007, 09:39:27 AM »

We need to change a few things and restart, hopefully I will get a better video during the day.  The family thing is a good thing.
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AJR192
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« Reply #181 on: September 28, 2007, 10:19:04 PM »

Your mom rocks! I couldn't get my mom within 1000 feet of a running blown KB.......Hope to see you at the WF next week.
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bvillercr
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« Reply #182 on: September 28, 2007, 10:50:23 PM »

My dad has been racing since the late 50's.  She's been around almost as long.  Here's a picture in 57 I believe of my dad and his twin with a blown olds.  They ran in the mid 120 and around 12 seconds.  How tires have changed.



How do you think I got the fever.  Many family member used to race, some still do and we still try.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2007, 09:51:43 AM by bvillercr » Logged

bvillercr
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« Reply #183 on: September 29, 2007, 09:55:42 AM »

Yesterday we had to re-due a few things to remedy some leaks.  We also got our new Goodyear 2222 mounted and on the car.  Karma is looking out for us recently.  We will fire the engine again today to get a better tune, Some minor body work and get some organizing done on what we are bringing.  Then tomorrow we will load it all up and be gone on Monday.  This build is almost finished.  Another video later tonight.
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bvillercr
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« Reply #184 on: September 30, 2007, 10:04:20 AM »

A trip to Bonneville wouldn't be the same unless you had to use allumiseal.  We had a little set back yesterday in that we had water in the oil, thought it might be a bville breaker.  We think we got it the water leak stopped we will find out this morning.  If not we might not be there.  Pan is off and we need to check the leak.  We only have a couple things to do to finish.  Here are a couple photos of some of the things we finished yesterday while waiting on the allumiseal to do its magic.

We got new tires and finally got them on.



We made these braces for the blower tubes.





We checked the inner-cooler temperature at idle, and on the hot side it got up to 208 and on the cold it was 130, at 14 psi.(no ice) 
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GH
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« Reply #185 on: October 04, 2007, 09:49:39 PM »

Troy, I enjoyed your visit at WF. Your Dad and me is about the same age, started messing around with cars about the same time. Your Moms maiden name is the same as mine. Check out some photos on my web site (geocities.com/garyhartracing) Cya
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Sumner
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« Reply #186 on: October 05, 2007, 09:25:28 PM »

Troy, I enjoyed your visit at WF................................. Cya

Ditto on what Gary said, good meeting you guys and getting to talk to you.  The best of luck with your car,

Sum
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bvillercr
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« Reply #187 on: October 05, 2007, 11:41:37 PM »

It was great to put the faces to all of the names.  Nice to meet everyone and Gary, don't give up on that AA motor yet it will get you that record and a red hat.
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revolutionary
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« Reply #188 on: October 07, 2007, 08:31:03 AM »

Cool video!  Sounds mean.  Sorry to hear bout your milkshake issues. 
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bvillercr
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« Reply #189 on: October 08, 2007, 12:02:06 AM »

Cool video!  Sounds mean.  Sorry to hear bout your milkshake issues. 

The thing is so loud you can barely hear the real sound of the engine.  Need to find the root of the problem and then put it back together and get it running better, then I will post another video. 
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bvillercr
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« Reply #190 on: October 12, 2007, 06:06:10 PM »

Since getting back from Bonneville we have been slow on tearing down the engine and finding the water leak.  One thing my dad did do, was change the fuel primer from going into the fuel lines to squirting into the spacer on top of the manifold.  Hopefully this will help with the initial start of the engine.  We will start working on the engine sunday.  I will post more pictures then.  Troy
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bvillercr
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« Reply #191 on: October 14, 2007, 07:37:59 PM »

We found the water leak pretty easily and quickly.  While under the car looking up at the sleeves I could see that they were not leaking at the bottom.  I could see some water dripping down from somewhere near the first lifter on the number 1 sleeve.  We took the valve covers off to see if the head was the problem and it wasn't clear at that time.  Once we took the manifold off we spotted the problem immediatly.  With the use of a mirror we could see that the leak was comming from the top of the sleeve where it met the aluminum block next to the push rod hole.  Here is a picture.  The first one shows two push rods holes, the one on the left is the leak.  You can locate it by looking to left of both silicone spots.



This picture is a better view of the leak.



We think the O ring that goes around the top of the sleeve didn't seal the water out, we tried getting the sleeve out but it is a bitch to get out.  When the block is out of the car we usaully heat the block up and put the sleeve in the freezer so it will slide in the block easier.  Here is a picture of us trying to cool the sleeve down so it will come out.  No luck.



I think we are just going to silicone the areas effected and put it back together.  We also changed our gas primer from going into the barrel valve to now shooting into the manifold.  Here is a picture of it. 



All in all we were pretty happy that we don't have to pull the engine system out of the car..... for now anyway.  We will refire it and make sure there are no more leaks before we load up for Mirage in Nov.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2007, 07:46:55 PM by bvillercr » Logged

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« Reply #192 on: October 14, 2007, 09:51:36 PM »

-if you haven't siliconed that spot up yet you ought to consider taking a Q-tip and swabbing the area with some thin green or red loctite----just let that seep into the leak area.

-You'd probably have better results with the loctite if you try to clean it good with some sort of quick drying brake or carburetor cleaner--and maybe use a heat gun to warm up the area then swab the loctite onto there.

-Or even use a smear of JB Weld.
---------------------------------------------------------
-There is a product called www.techspray.com that sells freezer in an aerosol can part #1672-15S where 15 is 15 OZ.

-This stuff says it cools to -62F----I have tried it and it's quick and will put a frosting coating on metal parts in just seconds.

-It's available at Allied Electronics for about $14 a can but it's real handy to have in your tool box at remote places like Bonneville.

« Last Edit: October 14, 2007, 10:08:29 PM by fwillyj » Logged
ol38y
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« Reply #193 on: October 14, 2007, 09:51:36 PM »

Glad you found the problem easily. Look forward to seeing you run at EM.
I've installed liners in diesels with dry ice but I don't remember how we got them out. I think we just used pullers. I'll ask around and see if it helps you. See ya at EM.
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Larry Cason
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2010 BUB 1350 M-PG record
2012 Speedweek  1350 A-PG record 169.975
2014 El Mirage Dry Lake  1350 A-PG  172.651
bvillercr
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« Reply #194 on: October 15, 2007, 09:43:31 AM »

Thanks for the information.
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