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Author Topic: UK Lakester build G/GL  (Read 13297 times)
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Rex Schimmer
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« Reply #60 on: January 26, 2018, 03:00:30 PM »

I definitely agree with Sid, the Simpson part seems to be one of the least restrictive for entry and exit to close cockpit situations. My son, Duke, aka "The Hero Driver" uses one and he is about 6 ft and weights about 175 lbs, broad of shoulder and narrow of hip but he fits into (and get out of) our car(which is 25 in. dia and the frame rails are 18 inches apart) very well. Of course he has the advantage of youth and he is a world class rock climber which makes him stronger than hell! I have attache a pic of the drive area in our car for comparison to yours, pretty small.

I have also attache a pic of the P-38 (Lockheed Interceptor) blue print that I have.

Rex


* cockpit r.jpg (106.18 KB, 800x600 - viewed 129 times.)

* P-38 r.jpg (127.59 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 133 times.)
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Rex

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Lemming Motors
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« Reply #61 on: January 29, 2018, 10:53:11 AM »

Thanks for the pic Rex - there is a flying legends display at Duxford in the UK in July and there will be a P-38 coming over from Austria on the flight line - there does not appear to even be one on display in he UK. Definitely want to see that in the flesh.
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A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.
Speed Limit 1000
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« Reply #62 on: January 29, 2018, 07:25:44 PM »

Thanks for the pic Rex - there is a flying legends display at Duxford in the UK in July and there will be a P-38 coming over from Austria on the flight line - there does not appear to even be one on display in he UK. Definitely want to see that in the flesh.

There might be one in Wales.

http://blog.flightstory.net/430/lockheed-p-38-lightning-found-on-uk-beach/

John
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John Gowetski, red hat @ 221.183 MPH MSA Lakester, Bockscar #1000 60 ci normally aspirated w/N20
edinlr
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« Reply #63 on: January 29, 2018, 08:58:36 PM »

I would hold off on the helmet purchase until close to driving time.  The helmets are dated and you could get a helmet that is already a year or two old and then it might be a while before you race.  Why risk just being able to have a five year helmet.
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Lemming Motors
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« Reply #64 on: January 30, 2018, 08:39:01 AM »

Imagine building sand castles and unearthing a P-38.

Talking of beaches; I am going to get the helmet to finalise roll structure but also I need to do some driving to shake down - there are a couple of runway opportunities in the UK but also and significantly there are a few events on Pendine Sands so I can pretend to be Malcolm Campbell or Parry_Jones (Bluebird / Babs).

In the next week I plan to be in a position to send to tech my latest (last) evolution of the roll structure and then its time to replacing the waste pipe with cold drawn seamless (CDS / DOM) and the duct tape with TIG welds.
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A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.
Seldom Seen Slim
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« Reply #65 on: January 30, 2018, 10:32:53 AM »

A sidebar about helmet buying/"expiration date":

In the grand scheme of things, a helmet that'll be valid for 10 years won't suffer for being a year old when you really need to use it.  There'd be 90% life remaining.  Not a big deal, and prudence says you might consider replacing it before the final day, anyway.

That, however, depends on your buying a helmet that's as new as possible.  If you're shopping in a store you can check for yourself and make sure you get something fresh, but if you're buying online please consider specifying that the helmet must brand new (i.e. valid for the longest possible time) and that you'll return it if it isn't.

Keep that in mind when buying and you likely won't regret getting the helmet early.
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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Lemming Motors
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« Reply #66 on: February 27, 2018, 04:44:50 AM »

After some correspondence with tech the roll structure is waiting for the steel to arrive.

Using the down time to solve some other aspects so they are designed in and don't become problems later in the build;

Parachute in a tube.

Can anyone point me to a discussion (I can't find it) on the forum, or provide me with plans or a detailed photo diary of using a 6" tube to pack and launch a chute; I want to make sure I am designing it correctly.

I would like to understand the tube size required (I wrote to Stroud but I guess they don't answer email).

Launch propulsion; a spring or a gas strut (as in the ones that hold car trunk lids open - I can get those to any length and force)?
What is the plunger end made of, what stops it misaligning and wedging in the tube?
What stops the shroud getting stuck on the edge of the plunger if clearance to the tube is required, and;

Am I overthinking this?
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A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.
Elmo Rodge
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« Reply #67 on: February 27, 2018, 07:44:40 AM »

On mine the spring is part of the drogue 'chute. When released, it pulls the main 'chute out. Simple.  cheers
Wayno
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Lemming Motors
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« Reply #68 on: February 27, 2018, 07:54:53 AM »

Drogue chute, simples, yes; thank you. I was over thinking it.

Do you pack into a bespoke deployment bag or just stuff the chute in the 6" tube, put the drogue in last, compress its spring and engage the end flaps and release cable?
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A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.
ggl205
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« Reply #69 on: February 27, 2018, 11:10:56 AM »

Drogue chute, simples, yes; thank you. I was over thinking it.

Do you pack into a bespoke deployment bag or just stuff the chute in the 6" tube, put the drogue in last, compress its spring and engage the end flaps and release cable?

I have done it both ways and both worked fine.

As for the 6" diameter chute tube; It depends on if you will pull through the tube or just use a tube to contain the chute itself. If you pull through the tube, it should be mounted central to where you tether to the chassis. If you tether outside the tube, you can mount the tube anywhere you like. Of course, this is just my opinion and there are many ways to accomplish what you want.

John
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Elmo Rodge
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« Reply #70 on: February 27, 2018, 11:20:12 AM »

I use a bag and mount outside the tube at the proper height.  cheers
Wayno
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Stan Back
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« Reply #71 on: February 27, 2018, 11:26:55 AM »

. . .  and to the length of the tube depends on the length of the whole package, mainly the size of the chute.  A manufacturer will help you decide what size you need and purchasing early won't hurt in deciding the tube length.  Make it a couple of inches longer than needed, then, if you need a larger chute, or it grows with use, you can still use the same tube.  Store a roll of duct tape in there to take up the slack.
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« Reply #72 on: February 27, 2018, 12:22:34 PM »

A 6" tube is good for a standard 5" pilot & 6" pvc sewer pipe is cheap & desirable. Don't mount the tow line inside the tube, that creates leverage on the back of the car when the chute hits off center & that upsets the car plus it beats the $hit out of the tow line & the tube. Make the tube longer than you need & pack it up with foam board spacers with three lugs on them so they fit tight in the tube. Put a string loop through the middle so you can hook them out of there as needed. The whole laundry pack gets bigger & stiffer after use on the salt. There's one correct point to attach the tow line & that's just below axle center line at the diff, everything else is a compromise.
Any release system has to have a mechanical override (rules) & in many of the cable systems the pilot spring loads the cable making them hard to pull & to load. Every year I teach at least one new team how to pack a tube chute & I've seen a lot of systems, most of them I don't like. Look hard & long before you decide.
  Sid.
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Lemming Motors
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« Reply #73 on: March 06, 2018, 08:13:59 AM »

There's a jig in my mind
I hear it all the time
Dancing to the jig in my mind

It comes from the mountains
Across (through) the mists of time
Man, this little jig is fine

It came into my life
On an old and ancient stream frame on castors
Part of my ancestors dream

I'll listen to you
Even if your jig is blue black and the frame is blue
Maybe that'll help it heal

Steve Young


* Roll structure jig.jpg (253.91 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 96 times.)
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A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.
Lemming Motors
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« Reply #74 on: March 06, 2018, 08:21:15 AM »

Many thanks for the chute comments.

I have a confession; I have opted to outsource the roll structure; although I can weld etc. I am a hobbiest and I think that part needs to be right in case it goes pear shaped on the salt; I think it was Kiwi Sid who said that he learned to sculpt before he learned to weld - that's me - I am an artiste with an angle grinder.

The jig was made by Gary at Loaded Gunn to my working drawings and my 1:1 plastic tube and duct tape model. He will do the tiggery.
He builds race car chassis (monocoque and tubular) which compete very successfully and is a hot rodder.

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A Bonneville Lakester please barman.
Certainly sir; a lick of salt, a sip of gas and a twist of Lemming. More Lemming sir?
Just a squeeze.

A Squeeze of Lemming it is sir.
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