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Author Topic: Bockscar 2.0  (Read 5729 times)
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ggl205
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« Reply #45 on: October 25, 2017, 09:02:52 AM »

Hammers, lots of hammers. How would we ever build cars without them. Stainless, I didn't see the one pound. That hammer is an absolute must!

John
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Stainless1
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Robert W. P. "Stainless" Steele Wichita, Kansas



« Reply #46 on: October 25, 2017, 09:10:01 AM »

John, so far the soft hammer has been the only one required... the "one pound" is still sitting by the door, hoping to not need it on this project.   rolleyes

For the guys that don't understand the use of a one pound hammer.... it is not the weight of the hammer.... it is the one that only requires one pound.....
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
manta22
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« Reply #47 on: October 25, 2017, 11:27:25 AM »

Stainless;

I had a similar problem when I built my chassis. The roll cage front hoop needed to be bent to follow the profile of the rear edge of the windshield. This was a large, non-constant radius bend. I took two lengths of tubing to an off-road 4x4 fab shop and explained how I thought the bends could be made- make a slight bend, move the tubing forward a bit, and make another slight bend, etc. It worked out just fine and the second length of tubing wasn't needed after all. I made a Masonite template of the inside of the windshield curve and the bender operator followed that curve. It worked out nicely. Maybe you could try the same trick?

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ


* Hoop Bends.jpg (122.28 KB, 800x600 - viewed 66 times.)
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
ggl205
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« Reply #48 on: October 25, 2017, 05:10:21 PM »

Stainless, my motorized SWAG modified HF tube bender is ready when you are. Use a template like Neil suggests and bend to fit.

John
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floydjer
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« Reply #49 on: October 26, 2017, 07:48:00 AM »

Hammers, lots of hammers. How would we ever build cars without them. Stainless, I didn't see the one pound. That hammer is an absolute must!

John
I prefer calling it a Linear Impact Adjustment Implement. cheers
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Buickguy3
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« Reply #50 on: October 26, 2017, 07:51:43 AM »

      This one ought to do the trick. 
  Doug  cheers cheers cheers
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manta22
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« Reply #51 on: October 26, 2017, 11:00:20 AM »

Wow!  cheesy

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Stainless1
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« Reply #52 on: October 26, 2017, 10:21:45 PM »

Yep, that's the one nobody has and I can't afford....

OK, here is my concept for the roll cage... just front and back bars, required bracing to follow in pictures or metal... we will see how it works out.  Feel free to comment... I am not a professional car builder....

Just so you know... I didn't draw this, my good friend Ross Powers (MC2032) listened to my description of how I was thinking I wanted to do the bars and put it on paper for me.  This adds about 1/2 inch to the height of the current cage and is about 1.5 inches longer.  I am hoping it makes a little extra room in there for helmet growth.  We will see how this works out.... 


* btable9roll.jpg (143.78 KB, 661x882 - viewed 73 times.)

* btable9roll2.jpg (174.93 KB, 735x980 - viewed 67 times.)
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
jacksoni
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« Reply #53 on: October 27, 2017, 07:43:50 AM »

The half inch higher helps for helmet growth and exit ease, the 1.5" longer makes exit ease worse. With the lay down position, with neck flexed already it makes exit harder. Having built a car with inadequate cage height and a front bar that made it ok to get in, impossible to get out (removed the bar which worked for a while and then the inspectors said "nah, nah") be sure of your measurements and adjustments before cutting and for sure welding anything. But I know you know all this, just sayin.... Dead Horse cheers Looking good and will be watching your progress.
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Jack Iliff
 G/BGS-250.235 1987
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Stainless1
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Robert W. P. "Stainless" Steele Wichita, Kansas



« Reply #54 on: October 27, 2017, 09:43:38 AM »

Jack, thanks... the 1/2 higher is in the hard plan... the deeper cage number will be helmet dependent... our old cage shrunk to being a "how you measure the 3 inch minimum" front clearance... and can you keep your head off the cage during a run.  The rougher salt made it a lot harder. 
We are all getting older, our knees not working as well as they once did.... so the bar at the front of the cage will move about 3 inches.  Of course my plan is to make and tack in the parts except the front bar, and then see where that one needs to go. 
The old cage was very tight in and out, but we never had a bailout problem with anyone that drove.


* bsf2010b005.jpg (494.34 KB, 2304x1728 - viewed 54 times.)
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #55 on: October 27, 2017, 10:13:22 AM »

it's actually very easy to go in and out....the trick is to slide backwards into the roll cage and opposite to get out....

...and Stainless, what problem you getting....I went out without taking the steering wheel off..... rolleyes rolleyes rolleyes rolleyes rolleyes

a real issue is the space between helmet and roll cage....at rough salt you come very easy in contact with the upper roll cage bow and than the view is gone....so much vibration... and you have to "shorten" your neck to get free of the roll cage and has to keep this position during the run....not very comfortable....OK...the Bockscar was never a comfortable racer....but therefor he was not built.... grin grin grin grin grin


Jack, thanks... the 1/2 higher is in the hard plan... the deeper cage number will be helmet dependent... our old cage shrunk to being a "how you measure the 3 inch minimum" front clearance... and can you keep your head off the cage during a run.  The rougher salt made it a lot harder. 
We are all getting older, our knees not working as well as they once did.... so the bar at the front of the cage will move about 3 inches.  Of course my plan is to make and tack in the parts except the front bar, and then see where that one needs to go. 
The old cage was very tight in and out, but we never had a bailout problem with anyone that drove.
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Pork Pie

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manta22
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« Reply #56 on: October 27, 2017, 11:24:26 AM »

Yep, that's the one nobody has and I can't afford....

OK, here is my concept for the roll cage... just front and back bars, required bracing to follow in pictures or metal... we will see how it works out.  Feel free to comment... I am not a professional car builder....

Just so you know... I didn't draw this, my good friend Ross Powers (MC2032) listened to my description of how I was thinking I wanted to do the bars and put it on paper for me.  This adds about 1/2 inch to the height of the current cage and is about 1.5 inches longer.  I am hoping it makes a little extra room in there for helmet growth.  We will see how this works out.... 

Why not tie the roll bar into the top tube instead of going all the way to the bottom tube?

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Mr. Schimstock
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« Reply #57 on: October 27, 2017, 11:51:30 AM »

Sharpe Products has a 3D tube bender.   They are located in Wisconsin but shipping couldn't be too bad.  Might be worth sending the a drawing to quote.

http://www.sharpeproducts.com/sharpe-pipe-and-tube-bending-videos.aspx
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PorkPie
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« Reply #58 on: October 27, 2017, 12:15:14 PM »

Neil,

the answer is

CREMONA


Yep, that's the one nobody has and I can't afford....

OK, here is my concept for the roll cage... just front and back bars, required bracing to follow in pictures or metal... we will see how it works out.  Feel free to comment... I am not a professional car builder....

Just so you know... I didn't draw this, my good friend Ross Powers (MC2032) listened to my description of how I was thinking I wanted to do the bars and put it on paper for me.  This adds about 1/2 inch to the height of the current cage and is about 1.5 inches longer.  I am hoping it makes a little extra room in there for helmet growth.  We will see how this works out.... 

Why not tie the roll bar into the top tube instead of going all the way to the bottom tube?

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Pork Pie

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manta22
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« Reply #59 on: October 27, 2017, 12:54:20 PM »

Thomas;

What is "CREMONA"?  huh

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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