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Author Topic: Indexing bellhousing.  (Read 920 times)
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sdroadster
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« on: October 01, 2017, 02:02:19 PM »

I just bought a Quick Time bellhousing, that I am in process of dialing in. It's negative .007 on one side of the bore, and negative .010 on the bottom. The instructions say divide the reading in half to determine if the housing is within tolerance. So according to them I'm .005 out of alignment. There are offset alignment pins available, but the smallest offset is .007. It appears the bellhousing needs to move towards the 1 or 2 o'clock position to make the reading better. I'm thinking a .007 offset pin too big of a change and will create a misalignment in the other direction. Do any of you guys have experience with a bellhousing alignment issue? And in particular what readings you find acceptable.  Thanks Terry. (Yellow Studebaker #352)
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RichFox
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« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2017, 03:18:28 PM »

You turn the offset pin to dial in the bell housing. It would end up split between the up and down and side to side offset. Get the pins and try it. You should end up closer to true.
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sdroadster
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« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2017, 03:45:37 PM »

Thanks Rich, I'll try it. There are several brands available. Someone recommended RobbMac industries, there is also Moroso and Lakewood. I'll try to get it closer.  Terry
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Jack Gifford
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« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2017, 12:00:00 AM »

Many times I've settled for ~.005" misalignment. No problem.
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jl222
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« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2017, 01:38:09 AM »


  After indexing, we drill a couple of 3/16 holes on each side of bell housing through motor plate and into block

  and insert roll pins so we don't have to check every time.

             JL222
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mike f
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« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2017, 06:13:50 PM »

Hi to all,  Mike from MF Performance.  The infro. that has been given to you is correct, but I have always held   .000 in all directions and yes it can be done.  Don't forget to check the face of the bellhousing to the block.  You can have the bore correct but the face could be off.  This is a real problem with steel bellhousing, again .005 is the limit but .000 can be done. Hope this helps, good luck.  Mike
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jacksoni
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« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2017, 07:46:34 AM »

Hi to all,  Mike from MF Performance.  The infro. that has been given to you is correct, but I have always held   .000 in all directions and yes it can be done.  Don't forget to check the face of the bellhousing to the block.  You can have the bore correct but the face could be off.  This is a real problem with steel bellhousing, again .005 is the limit but .000 can be done. Hope this helps, good luck.  Mike

Indeed. But to do this you need to be sure the surface being indicated is perfectly flat, round, etc, no irregular paint or corrosion etc.

I remember doing this on my first trip to Bonneville in 1979 having qualified on a run, lost the drive shaft which took out the rear, transmission, block plate and parts of the back of the engine, not to mention the driveshaft tunnel, seat belt mounts and nearly my butt. Undeterred, trip to SLC got engine welded, new block plate, and trans. Had a spare rear (not mine rolleyes ). Assembled engine/bellhousing with the bellhousing dial indicated to decent numbers in the  back of the truck in the KOA campground. Early in line next AM installed rear, engine/trans, etc. Had some trouble with the drive shaft length and had to cut off the front of the yoke. Record runs under way this whole time. Pushed to the fuel truck. I was under the car finally bolting up the shaft- with some SLC TV camera crew taking pictures- and then jump into fire suit and pushed to the line. Oh Well. Car wouldn't start. The distributor had been bumped with all these shenanigans and was way out of time. So back to the pits, fixed that, drilled some carb jets to richen it some, went back out requalified and set a new record by 10mph over the old.(might have been a minimum, don't remember).  Got salt fever bad and have been breaking parts out there ever since!   cheers
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Jack Iliff
 G/BGS-250.235 1987
 G/GC- 169.741  2009
 G/GMS-178.835 2010
ronnieroadster
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« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2017, 06:47:23 PM »

To correct the center line on my bell housings which I make myself for the combiantion I run I have to make my own offset dowel pins since nothing is available for the Ford flathead block. To make the needed offset dowel pins I use an adjustable three jaw Buck chuck in my old Southbend lath by offsetting the chuck I can make various amounts of offsets on the round stock I use to make the dowel pins.
    The same can be done with a four jaw chuck but the set up is a lot harder. My goal is always to get as close to .000 as possible. So far so good no broken flywheels or front pump seal leaks. I also spend lots of time making sure the face of the block and bell housing are true to the flange face of the crankshaft.
 Ronnieroadster
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Working in the shop I use the 'F' word a lot. No not that word these words Focus and Finish go Fast and Flathead Ford!
 ECTA  XF/BGRMR Record 179.8561
 LTA    XF/BGRMR  Record 186.946
 SCTA  XF/BGRMR Record 192.448
 SCTA  XXF/BGRMR Record 216.131 plus a Red Had
sdroadster
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« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2017, 09:09:46 AM »

Thanks guys! The question is the back of the block, and prior line boring. I have worked on my hands and knees, and turned that motor over a hundred times measuring the bore and face of the Quicktime bellhousing. The instructions say the reading you should adhere to is 1/2 of TIR. So, I'm at .005 on the bore at the 9:00 o'clock position, and .002 at the 6:00 o'clock position. The face is about .003. So half of the readings are as close as I'll get with my pile of parts. I hope to install the engine and trans this weekend, and re-assemble during the week. If I can get it to shift on jack stands I may go to a chassis dyno prior to subjecting myself to the embarrassment of another shifting failure at El Mirage. 352 C/GCC Studebaker.   Thanks
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mike f
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« Reply #9 on: October 07, 2017, 03:54:56 PM »

Hi again,  Did you drill and install the 3/16th roll pins?  Can you install the engine with the bell housing installed?  IF not be sure to recheck the alignment, even with roll pins I always recheck.  What type of trans. are you using?  Some are more forgiving then others on alignment.  Mike
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sdroadster
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« Reply #10 on: October 07, 2017, 10:20:41 PM »

No, I didn't install the roll pins. I don't have a motor plate.  The SBC mounts in the front as normal, and uses a  stock type mount on the trans. I install the engine and trans as an assembly into the car. I ran a used Muncie 4 speed until it began popping out of gear last October. Over the winter I bought a new Autogear trans which is a Muncie knock off. In April I ran the car on a chassis dyno, and it popped out of gear, I have chased this problem for a year. Over the coarse of the year I have changed the 3rd member, driveshaft, transmission, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, pilot bushing, throwout bearing, bellhousing, and had torque lock slider syncros installed in the trans, bought a new old stock Hurst Shifter, and removed the solid front and rear motor mounts, and installed polyurethane. Turned the motor upside down on a stand and inspected the bearings, looked at the connecting rods etc. The motor is a wet sump retired circle track 359 cu in that I re-cammed. It makes 644 horse at 7600 rpm. I am not a contender for a red hat, just an old guy who has family camp outs, and runs the car for bragging rights. My son ran the car through at 181.466 mph in September 2016 El Mirage, and in October this crap started. Somebody suggested I put a big block and a turbo 400 auto trans in it. Maybe I should, but I haven't given up my small block yet. I installed the engine and trans today in 100 degree So Cal heat, in anticipation of October El Mirage. We'll soon see if the bellhousing related work has helped. Thanks Terry...
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mike f
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« Reply #11 on: October 10, 2017, 06:27:02 PM »

Hi,  Hope all your work pays off.  The first trans. you used the Munice had a lot of problems jumping out of gear.  The problem was with the main case and the input placement.  We had to correct it on most of them.  I don't know if Autogear fixed this problem, when I sold the main business all the Munice stuff went with it.  Keeping correct alignment will help, good luck.  Mike
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sdroadster
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« Reply #12 on: October 10, 2017, 10:58:21 PM »

I got the car started today, and shifted through the gears on jack stands. We decided to go straight to El Mirage and have a camp out. If the car performs I'll do the happy dance. The chassis dyno is $150 per hour, and the clock starts when they begin strapping the car down. I know they'll burn 3 hours. I would rather spend that money on entry fees, and mixed drinks.  I'll let every one know how the car behaved. Thanks Terry
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