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Author Topic: Get your nuts off  (Read 2850 times)
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wheelrdealer
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« Reply #15 on: October 14, 2016, 07:48:10 PM »

So it goes  like this,

Wife:
     Where are you going?

You:
     Out in the shop.

Wife:
     What are you going to do?

You:
      Wax my nuts!

Wife:
      You are sick!

You:
      What, my nuts are stuck and I need to loosen them.
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« Reply #16 on: October 14, 2016, 09:57:04 PM »

It seems the situation is nation wide. From Florida to the Pacific coast........

Same situation. Nuts are too tight and the wife doesn't understand.

Explanations never penetrate  after the first year of marriage.

By that time she has everything under control, except the tight nuts.

Married more than a year.............

FREUD

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Jack Gifford
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« Reply #17 on: October 15, 2016, 12:24:36 AM »

... Wrong, wrong, wrong, Jerry...
I don't know Jerry from Adam. But if you're saying 'no' to antiseize on lugs/nuts, I can't agree with that. Following your reasoning, would you also disagree with using threadlube on important highly stressed fasteners such as main studs, head studs, etc.?

Something [cheap!] that's worked well for me on wheel lugs for sixty years- grab any old can of enamel (you know, the ones with not enough left in them to paint anything) and brush some onto each lug before installing the nut. Don't knock it 'til you've tried it... smiley
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Seldom Seen Slim
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« Reply #18 on: October 15, 2016, 07:22:13 AM »

Here are a couple of reasons why I say NO to anti-seize on wheel studs/lug nuts.

First of all is what happened to me.  I applied anti-seize on the bits  and thought it'd help combat Wendover locktite effects.  After a year or two of the stuff being on there - and I change all four wheels for summer/winter tires -- it was so gummed-up that I had one heck of a time getting them off and on.  As some of you may know, it's kinda difficult to use a wire brush on the studs, so I ended up having to get a tap and die to clean the threads.  Until then I had to turn up the impact wrench a notch just to spin them loosened nuts off and on.

Okay - I didn't like the results I got from using anti-seize.  Now the other reason:

A large majority of the torque applied to a nut/bolt simply overcomes friction - doesn't do any tightening per se.  Stipulating that you need to apply 50# torque according to the mfr. - most of that is going to just spin the nut and the rest - the left-over portion - does the stretching/deformation that provides the clamping force itself.  It follows that if the friction is way reduced by the lube -- the excess torque will go into deforming the metal of the fasteners beyond the recommended - and very likely towards damage.

Right?  So I was taught, many hundreds of years ago, when Dad worked as the midwest sales manager for Premier Industrial in Cleveland - the company that made/makes the Grade 8 "Supertanium" fasteners.  Have I been laboring under a misconception all of these years? huh
« Last Edit: October 15, 2016, 09:03:24 AM by Seldom Seen Slim » Logged

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« Reply #19 on: October 15, 2016, 08:34:25 AM »

IIRC, I think (this memory crap) I had read on tightening something, it specified to use one torque for the nuts, use a different torque if oil was used and another torque if anti-seize was used. That would be to keep the clamping force the same with different lube as Jon said. One mfg. (ARP ?) says to use engine oil only when tightening their product. No or different lube would change the torque specs.

Ron
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« Reply #20 on: October 15, 2016, 09:06:07 AM »

By the way, a quick tangent to thank Dad (may he rest in peace) for getting me to the Indy 500 a half-dozen times in the 60s, and especially when he worked for Premier and we got GARAGE PASSES during time trials.  Think that didn't warp my future, affect my destiny?  Hey -- I smelled Andy Granatelli's cigars on Gasoline Alley!! evil  What else could possibly have happened to me - but to end up at Bville? cheers cheers cheers cheers cheers cheers cheers
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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« Reply #21 on: October 15, 2016, 12:16:32 PM »

SSS, What you said about anti-seize on lug nuts is exactly what the local tire shop says as they chastise me for it.

I suspect they keep carb cleaner on hand just for this reason.   rolleyes

  Don
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« Reply #22 on: October 15, 2016, 11:56:33 PM »

... one mfg. (ARP ?) says to use engine oil only when tightening their product...
Not ARP. I use many of their fasteners. They are adamant that only their proprietary product- ARP thread lube- be used with their torque specs.
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« Reply #23 on: October 17, 2016, 07:58:59 AM »

Oh good...I started a sh^t storm. My work is done....www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-lug-nuts-anti-seize-189201
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« Reply #24 on: October 17, 2016, 08:21:38 AM »

Oh good...I started a sh^t storm. My work is done....www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-lug-nuts-anti-seize-189201

Thanks for the link... there is a nice chart linked in the middle of the blog. www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-lug-nuts-anti-seize-189201. Shows the different torques for dry and lubed fasteners.

BR
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ECTA    Maxton D/CBGALT Record Holder 166.715

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