Landracing Forum Home
October 23, 2017, 03:47:30 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
BACK TO LANDRACING.COM HOMEPAGE
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  


(Note: Donations are not tax deductible)







Live Audio Streaming and Archives of Past Events
Next Live Event: TBD
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Drip Rail Removal and Flush Mount Window question(s)  (Read 4465 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
wheels777
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Location: York, PA
Posts: 51




Ignore
« on: June 28, 2016, 07:25:52 AM »

Is there a relative Cd improvement value for the removal of the drip rails on my 1974 Datsun Z?  Similarly, a relative Cd improvement for flush mounting the side windows?  Is it worth the effort?
« Last Edit: June 28, 2016, 08:09:35 AM by wheels777 » Logged

#9270 - 1954 Studebaker
kiwi belly tank
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 166
Location: Lava Hot Springs Idaho
Posts: 2221




Ignore
« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2016, 08:11:02 AM »

Yes.
 Is it legal in your class?
  Sid.
Logged
wheels777
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Location: York, PA
Posts: 51




Ignore
« Reply #2 on: June 28, 2016, 09:01:17 AM »

Yes.
 Is it legal in your class?
  Sid.
I am not specifically building it for a class.  Will enter whatever class I can.  The value of the modification will determine if the work is done.   Visual aerodynamics (mental gymnastics) are deceptive...just because I think it looks like it can help does not mean it will.   Hence, the request for a relative Cd improvement number.  I would hate to invest significant hours to see a .00001 Cd change and a .11sf frontal reduction.

The drip rail looks ugly front and rear.  The lack of a recess for the window look ugliest in front and possibly negatively influential at the rear.  But all modern vehicles have that/those area(s) cleaned up.
« Last Edit: June 28, 2016, 09:04:15 AM by wheels777 » Logged

#9270 - 1954 Studebaker
jacksoni
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 73
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Posts: 958




Ignore
« Reply #3 on: June 28, 2016, 11:59:28 AM »

The way I read the rules, drip rail removal puts you in /Alt and mounting windows flush with outside, if they were not there in the stock configuration, puts you in /CC. You would normally run Classic if you want (don't have to). At the outset if this is a new car/proposition for you and considering your concern that the modification may not give you much, I'd suggest not going to the trouble, build your car to whatever class you want otherwise, run it and see what you get. If you then want to step up the program to the normally faster classes, go for it. Some of what you want to do can be simulated in a wind tunnel (tape, cardboard etc). (where do you live? The A2 in North Carolina can answer these questions within an hour or two. )In addition to someone here having first hand knowledge,  some searching around you might find some information that answers your questions directly.

Oops, see you are in York, Pa. The trip to NC is not too bad if you really are serious about this. I have done it from here (Annapolis, MD)

Additionally if you are thinking ECTA and running /RS or /SS, no body cares what you do to the body, in essence.
« Last Edit: June 28, 2016, 12:03:09 PM by jacksoni » Logged

Jack Iliff
 G/BGS-250.235 1987
 G/GC- 169.741  2009
 G/GMS-178.835 2010
wheels777
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Location: York, PA
Posts: 51




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2016, 12:29:31 PM »

The way I read the rules, drip rail removal puts you in /Alt and mounting windows flush with outside, if they were not there in the stock configuration, puts you in /CC. You would normally run Classic if you want (don't have to). At the outset if this is a new car/proposition for you and considering your concern that the modification may not give you much, I'd suggest not going to the trouble, build your car to whatever class you want otherwise, run it and see what you get. If you then want to step up the program to the normally faster classes, go for it. Some of what you want to do can be simulated in a wind tunnel (tape, cardboard etc). (where do you live? The A2 in North Carolina can answer these questions within an hour or two. )In addition to someone here having first hand knowledge,  some searching around you might find some information that answers your questions directly.

Oops, see you are in York, Pa. The trip to NC is not too bad if you really are serious about this. I have done it from here (Annapolis, MD)

Additionally if you are thinking ECTA and running /RS or /SS, no body cares what you do to the body, in essence.
I search the forum long enough to decide to post the question.  I was just hoping someone had some relative numbers for these mods. 
Logged

#9270 - 1954 Studebaker
kiwi belly tank
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 166
Location: Lava Hot Springs Idaho
Posts: 2221




Ignore
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2016, 12:58:11 PM »

The advantage would be relevant to your body design only & not a given number across the board. You could run it with them on to come up with a base line & then wack them off. I believe the fastest pro Z car is Burton Brown, Victory Motor Sports.
The first production car I owned with drip rail delete was an 85 Starion & that was way ahead of the mob for aero in it's day.
  Sid. 
Logged
GH
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 76
Location: Springfield, Missouri
Posts: 830





Ignore
« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2016, 08:41:57 AM »

I removed the drip rails on my Studebaker, but did some other things at the same time, so I don't know if that helped any or not. Sure looked better.
Logged
SteveM
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 49
Location: Festus, MO USA
Posts: 1388





Ignore
« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2016, 03:26:17 PM »

"What Class" is not just a trivial question.  How the rest of the car is built depends heavily on the rules for the class, and the existing record in that class.

Unless you are happy running in Time Only, it really needs to be built to satisfy the rules and existing record of whatever class you choose.  A lot of people, (myself included) have had "false starts" with vehicles, having invested time and money, only to realize later that whatever they are building won't work within the structure of the rulebook.

My 2 cents -

Steve.
Logged

1/2 of the Rampage Brothers
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!


Google visited last this page August 05, 2017, 06:12:57 PM