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Author Topic: Some General Motorcycle Rules Questions  (Read 5934 times)
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wolfeman28
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« on: February 01, 2016, 09:36:29 PM »

Hi all. Will be running an old twin at Willmington this year. My build is pretty much complete and I used an old SCTA and Lorring book as guides, but just had Tonya send me last years rule book to get everything buttoned up. I know there might be a few changes in the 2016 book but I'll adjust as necessary when it comes out. Just looking for some clarification on a few areas. Figured you guys may know the answers, if not I'll just forward the questions to Keith.

For reference, I'll be running MPS, overhead cam twin.

1- Gasoline Shutoff(7.B.2.4)- I gather from this rule that I can't use plastic fuel filters to my carbs. I have no issue swapping out the ones I have on there, but what's acceptable as a replacement? Glass just seems like a bad swap. I can go without them as I have a filter on the petcock in the tank, but just wondering what others do.

2- Fuel Shutoff(7.B.2.5)- I'm a just going to be running standard supplied gas on my bike, but was going to enter in both G and F. This rule says I need a fuel shutoff that I can operate from the handlebars. If I'm running a gravity fed system with no pump, this doesn't seem possible. So I'm guessing the Fuel class is off limits to me without a fuel pump? Confused here because I could have sworn I've talked to people that ran gravity fed fuel systems in both classes. Just need some clarification here as I may be misunderstanding something with this rule.

3- Controls(7.B.4)- 1/2" ball ends on controls..... Please see picture. I measure my ends at .601", and they look 'ballish', will these be ok?



4- Fuel Systems(7.B.25)- This section really confuses me. I'm currently running Tygon lines (the neon yellow, pricey nice stuff) from the tank to the carbs, all barb style fittings, with wire style clamps. The rule says something about fire proof lines and connections, fire sleeves over lines, metal clamps on flexible lines...... Just needs this spelled out for a newbie, doesn't sound like my lines or clamps meet this requirement. What about the Tygon? The rule says no plastic lines but then the rule says clear lines are ok if they are marked on the line as fuel capable. Well fuel use Tygon (4040) is opaque yellow. I can hand carry the data sheet for the line with me that shows it's fuel certified. I have never seen Tygon 4040 with writing on it though. And if I have to sleeve it with fire resistant sleeve anyway.... I did see a few posts elsewhere on the forum that lead me to believe that sleeving and clamping the Tygon will be acceptable, but I want to make sure. Only 6" of line, but I suppose it's critical to get right.

My carbs have vent lines and overflow lines as well. Didn't see anything in the rules about these types of lines as they are not directly part of the fuel delivery system. Do I need to sleeve those as well or can I leave them bare?

5- Rear Fender(7.F.4.2)- See picture. My seat reaches the rear axle (barely) so this should be sufficient for the rule, correct?



General question, how does the weekend work? What I mean is, do I have to pack up my bike and overhead cover each night and take it with me to the hotel after the day is over? Or does it all get left there as is with security... Or can I just sleep in my truck bed and skip the hotel?
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sofadriver
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« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2016, 11:57:33 PM »

Wolfy, do not read anything into these rulebooks. It only wastes your brainpower.

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Mike in Tacoma

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wolfeman28
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« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2016, 01:36:53 AM »

I know  grin

I got furloughed a few weeks ago so I need something to keep me busy. Going stir crazy here
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saltwheels262
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« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2016, 06:46:05 AM »

#1 - you can use a metal in line car filter.
  2- a push-pull choke cable could be made up or a pricy Pingle remote fuel shut off could be used for a fuel class.
  3- the ball end on clutch lever looks fine.
  4- I don't know anything about Tygon fuel lines. Would probably be best to wrap them in fire sleeve. You can get fire sleeves at Kohler Company in Brooklyn Heights. Mcmaster-carr is a good source for different pieces that you may need in your build.
vent and overflow lines don't need to be wrapped.
  5- the height of the rear fender is limited depending on what class you run in.

Take the top off of the easy up and everything can be left at the track overnight, except for you.

You probably don't live far from me ; give me a call if you like - 216.990.8547.

Welcome to the forum and good luck.

Franey
 
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events -- made a 2 state change in ZIP codes

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007
saltwheels262
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« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2016, 06:53:18 AM »

  #4 - you could use rubber fuel line and go with worm drive clamps.

Bf262
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events -- made a 2 state change in ZIP codes

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007
Stainless1
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« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2016, 09:43:47 AM »

Firesleve on unvalved portions of the fuel line is required... on the valved portion if in runs close to heat I would recommend it.

Since you have time on your hands, read the rules over and over to help understand what they are about.  Most are safety related, the rest are class related. 

Leave the well secured tag on it and you have a fender.  shocked

If you have a balance tube on the tank it will require firesleve.

A note to Keith is never a waste of time for rule clarifications.
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Stainless
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MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
wolfeman28
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« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2016, 01:24:31 PM »

Cheers guys, thanks.

Ordered up some sleeve and new clamps. I'll be skipping the remote fuel valve and just stay in the G class.

Now to work on my chain guard :/
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wfojohn
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« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2016, 09:47:36 AM »

"IF U R NOT REALLY RUNNING FUEL" ..... Then build for gas class and run gas, then you can bump up to fuel (if still running gas)(keep safety in mind). I have never been required to be re-teched for fuel on a bump up. Check with Keith, in the past they were fair about it and let common sense prevail.
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Seldom Seen Slim
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« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2016, 11:43:53 AM »

Unh, let's see.  When I was actively inspecting bikes if I had been presented with your particular bike and the concept of putting it in fuel class --- I'd probably have just asked Kieth (or Joe, back then) for his opinion on accepting the bike without a hand-on-the-bars positive fuel shutoff and gone with what I received from them.

But then -- lots of racers showed up with an old choke cable  connecting from some kind of lever on the bars to the fuel petcock.  Cheap and relatively easy and absolutely you'll pass for fuel and gas.

Your results may vary. . . rolleyes
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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mtkawboy
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« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2016, 01:35:11 PM »

Even on the street Ive had problems with metal car filters stopping up within a few days. I use the take apart chrome motorcycle filters with the bronze looking filter element inside. Maybe its just the crappy gasohol pump gas doing it, I don't know but I just thought Id mention it
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