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Author Topic: Sheet Metal Intake Manifold.  (Read 76442 times)
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tauruck
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« on: April 14, 2015, 02:48:31 AM »

I need stirling advice on a sheet metal intake.

I used a brand new Torker11 manifold from Edelbrock to create a welding jig
for the Aluminum plates (3) I'll be using to make up the base.

I have two options.
Use the jig that by all accounts is accurate and has all the threaded inserts built in already
or take the dummy block with the heads mounted to my Aluminum weldor?.
The thing that bothers me is that the welded jig might be a small amount "off" due to the welding.
Using the block and heads means wasting a set of gaskets and the transportation is going to be difficult.

When making the jig I used 6mm steel plate and never welded it all in one go.
I took my time and used the original fasteners to set it up.


* INL1.JPG (93.39 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 222 times.)

* INL2.JPG (95.64 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 232 times.)
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SPARKY
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« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2015, 07:56:46 AM »

When I bought my first profiler manifold I couldn't find one for a std. height  BBC block---they had to mill the tall deck intake manifold to fit the head and block.

 you might take the same approach build the manifold slightly to "small" with thick flanges and mill to fit---it would also take care of any welding induced warpage at the same time.
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Dynoroom
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« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2015, 09:00:51 AM »

Mike, do yourself a favor and use the block & heads for mockup to weld. It WILL warp some. so be ready to mill the flanges if needed.


* Roadster Intake 034 (Medium).jpg (76.14 KB, 800x600 - viewed 211 times.)

* Roadster Intake Manifold April 2013 040 (Medium).jpg (68.12 KB, 800x533 - viewed 239 times.)

* Roadster Intake Manifold April 2013 011 (Medium).jpg (87.37 KB, 800x533 - viewed 270 times.)
« Last Edit: April 14, 2015, 09:03:28 AM by Dynoroom » Logged

Michael LeFevers
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« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2015, 11:22:20 AM »

Thanks Mike.

Do I set it up with or sans gaskets?.
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SPARKY
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« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2015, 11:56:16 AM »

My vote --  set it up with thick flanges and no gaskets so you can mill to straighten and fit
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Miss LIBERTY,  changing TKI  to noise, dust and RUST!!!

The # 1 issue is: TO KEEP THE REPUBLIC      
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"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."   Helen Keller
Peter Jack
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« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2015, 02:33:48 PM »

I'm agreeing with Sparky.  grin grin grin

Pete
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tauruck
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« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2015, 10:05:50 PM »

Thanks Sparky and Pete.

Wise words. That's exactly what I'll do.
Awesome advice. cheers
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tauruck
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« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2015, 12:47:46 AM »

I was just thinking that I'll need to use head gaskets and tie down the heads
properly so I get correct bolt alignment.
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SPARKY
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« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2015, 12:49:57 AM »

I was referring to intake gaskets
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Miss LIBERTY,  changing TKI  to noise, dust and RUST!!!

The # 1 issue is: TO KEEP THE REPUBLIC      
   Center for Self Governance            tncsg.org     mrspowell.org

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."   Helen Keller
tauruck
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« Reply #9 on: April 16, 2015, 06:55:06 AM »

I was referring to intake gaskets

I know you were but if I leave the head gaskets out it will change dimensions fairly drastically.
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Ron Gibson
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« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2015, 08:27:17 AM »

Head gaskets come in a variety of compressed thickness's. Also that gasket dimension can change your compression ratio substantially. You need to figure out which ones you are going to use. Then you could use shim washers of the right thickness,under the head on the bolts so you can clamp them down tightly for stability without using up new gaskets.

Ron
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« Reply #11 on: April 16, 2015, 08:47:27 AM »

Ron is correct, you should use either a head gasket or simulate one. The bolt them down with 3 or 4 head fasteners. No need to use them all or torque to spec. Using a new head gasket is not a problem, most will be ok to use afterwards.
Carry on...
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Michael LeFevers
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Without Data You're Just Another Guy With An Opinion!

Racing is just a series of "Problem Solving" events that allow you to spend money & make noise...
tauruck
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« Reply #12 on: April 17, 2015, 02:42:49 AM »

First problem encountered.

I have an ARP bolt kit for the original Torker2 manifold.
Instinct tells me the bolts are a little long for my sheet metal application.
Do I replace them all with shorter High Tensile good grade bolts?
I could swap out some of them but that's looking for trouble IMO.

Thanks in advance.
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tauruck
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« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2015, 03:19:22 AM »

Some pics of the original fasteners from ARP on both ends.
The bushings look very long. What say you guys?.


* Man1.JPG (67.07 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 196 times.)

* Man2.JPG (82.91 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 187 times.)
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Dynoroom
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« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2015, 08:46:01 AM »

Swap them out, no problem. The use of grade 5 in this application is fine.
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Michael LeFevers
Kugel and LeFevers Pontiac Firebird

Without Data You're Just Another Guy With An Opinion!

Racing is just a series of "Problem Solving" events that allow you to spend money & make noise...
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