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Author Topic: Belly Tank Build Diary  (Read 54477 times)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #270 on: September 09, 2017, 05:29:55 PM »

I attached the windshield to the body using 1/4-20 phillips truss head screws with 1-1/4" diameter fender washers to spread the load. 


* Windshield 2 small.jpg (162.88 KB, 1072x712 - viewed 37 times.)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #271 on: September 09, 2017, 05:39:23 PM »

My experience with clear acrylic sheet is that it is extremely notch sensitive.  Glazing shops routinely score a line and crack acrylic verses sawing it.  The same goes for holes which concentrate the stress.  So I make large holes using Uni-Bits or negative rake drill bits designed specifically for plastics.  These bits "scrape" the material out verses cutting.  I use a very slow speed.  The hole then gets the tool marks polished out and the edges chamfered using a single flute countersink.  To prevent the threads of the fastener from touching the acrylic I machine a spacer that is a slip fit into the hole.  This spacer also prevents the fastener from tightening down on the acrylic.  The spacers are machined .005" taller than the material.  To make the windshield easy to remove when transporting I used Nutserts in the body so there is no need to get to fasteners inside the body. 


* Windshield 4 small.jpg (130.21 KB, 1072x712 - viewed 41 times.)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #272 on: September 09, 2017, 05:55:28 PM »

We traveled to Maine for the Loring Timing event.  The staff was spectacular.  We made three runs on Saturday.  The first at approximately 125 mph, the second at approximately 150 mph and the last at 191.87 mph.  I did not change the engine cooling water all day.  On the last run the intercooler water temperature was over 140 degrees after the return trip to the pits.  I suspect that the ECU was dialing out some timing from the engine.  I was also not able to concentrate on the tachometer so I was shifting late when I felt the car stop accelerating due to the rev limiter.  I plan to eliminate the tachometer and just use a shift light.  I think that there was room for a higher speed if the shifts were quicker.  The chassis performed well.  There was no shimmy on the front wheels at all.  The original shimmy issue must have been caused by the Speedway Motors steel steering arms flexing.  I would also like to add a logger to the OBD2 port on the controller so I can review the engine performance.  


* IMG_0964[1].JPG (334.24 KB, 1504x1000 - viewed 53 times.)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #273 on: September 09, 2017, 06:00:17 PM »

There was no record at Loring for B/BFL so I established it at 191.87 mph.  


* Record small.jpg (139.33 KB, 612x816 - viewed 45 times.)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #274 on: September 14, 2017, 06:10:43 AM »

My son helped servicing the car between runs.  Andy Welker told me that the track was rough on chutes.  Three runs and there were holes in the bag that holds the main chute.  I will send the bag back to Bob Stroud to be reworked. 


* Packing Chute small.jpg (439.06 KB, 1008x756 - viewed 86 times.)
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NathanStewart
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« Reply #275 on: September 14, 2017, 10:39:06 AM »

Cool! Way to go!
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El Mirage 200 MPH Club Member
kiwi belly tank
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« Reply #276 on: September 14, 2017, 08:04:24 PM »

The bag is dead meat flopping around out there, it's always going to get beat to death. I cut them off & toss them. If you're packing the tow line with long loops as shown in that pic you are running the risk of it tangling. 10 to 12" overlays work best creating a tighter pack to also prevent pilot spring creep.
  Sid.
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