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Author Topic: Belly Tank Build Diary  (Read 57383 times)
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SPARKY
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« Reply #60 on: July 27, 2015, 01:57:04 PM »

thanks for the close ups
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« Reply #61 on: August 04, 2015, 11:34:45 AM »

I received the custom steering rack from Unisteer yesterday.  The rack matched the drawing exactly and came complete with dust boots, rod ends and a universal joint for the steering shaft.  I machined brackets to mount the rack from 1" thick steel.  The brackets will be attached to 2" DOM tube which go all the way to the perimeter frame.  The 1.2" of rack travel per revolution of the steering wheel is very slow which what I need.  I am very pleased with the rack and pinion from Unisteer. 


* Steering Rack small.JPG (200.11 KB, 816x612 - viewed 337 times.)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #62 on: August 27, 2015, 05:43:06 PM »

The link tabs have been final welded to the axle housing and the brakes are in.  I have used Wilwood brakes on multiple projects with good results.  I am running two calipers per wheel.  One will be operated by a foot pedal and the other with a hand brake. 


* Brakes small.JPG (172.3 KB, 804x534 - viewed 256 times.)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #63 on: September 15, 2015, 06:00:12 PM »

Help!

I am preparing to final weld my roll cage and am in the process of adding gussets, actually knee bars from 1" DOM 1/8" wall.  I have read the rule book section regarding gussets and am still not clear.  Does the 4" dimension refer to each leg or the hypotenuse per the photo attached?



* Roll Cage Gusset small.jpg (173.38 KB, 804x534 - viewed 180 times.)
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Mike Brown
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« Reply #64 on: September 15, 2015, 06:06:35 PM »

I am using a Jerico transmission with a Hurst shifter.  Since the transmission is behind the cockpit I will be using push pull cables to connect the shifter to the transmission.  Is there any need to have a working reverse?  It would require an additional cable just for reverse. 
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« Reply #65 on: September 15, 2015, 06:13:35 PM »

About the gussets, for a definitive answer call the chief inspector Steve Davies   714-671-9454     cartechscta@gmail.com
« Last Edit: September 15, 2015, 06:15:44 PM by jdincau » Logged

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« Reply #66 on: September 15, 2015, 06:14:39 PM »

I am using a Jerico transmission with a Hurst shifter.  Since the transmission is behind the cockpit I will be using push pull cables to connect the shifter to the transmission.  Is there any need to have a working reverse?  It would require an additional cable just for reverse. 
To the contrary they want a reverse lock out, no need for a cable
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« Reply #67 on: September 15, 2015, 06:18:20 PM »

Mike, I used a Long vertical gate shifter in our rear-engine modified roadster (the shifter is straight line, i.e., it is locked out of 3-4 until you move forward out of 2d, and then locks you out of 1-2), This let me put the shifter on the left side and avoid long, looping cables. I figured the simplicity of operation would resolve any potential confusion on the driver's part. I was right - 6 current records and three red hats. Plus, 1/4" Morse cables have worked fine.

I used a 4" center line on my gusset tubes; no complaints from tech.

vic
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« Reply #68 on: September 16, 2015, 07:21:25 AM »

I am using a Jerico transmission with a Hurst shifter.  Since the transmission is behind the cockpit I will be using push pull cables to connect the shifter to the transmission.  Is there any need to have a working reverse?  It would require an additional cable just for reverse. 
On my liner with rear engine used a T-10 trans, Hurst 4 spd shifter mounted on left with solid rods from shifter to trans with appropriate heim ends and maybe a spacer on the trans arms (don't remember). The pattern was reversed the way I had it but that no issue. Worked fine. No reverse of course.
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Sumner
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« Reply #69 on: September 16, 2015, 02:37:53 PM »

Mike, I used a Long vertical gate shifter in our rear-engine modified roadster (the shifter is straight line, i.e., it is locked out of 3-4 until you move forward out of 2d, and then locks you out of 1-2)...

How did you engage 1st to begin with?  Any pictures of what you did to lift it up into the 1-2 track/gates?



Thanks and it is the shifter I have for the G-Force 101A 4 speed,

Sumner
« Last Edit: September 16, 2015, 02:44:16 PM by Sumner » Logged

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« Reply #70 on: September 16, 2015, 06:53:35 PM »

Thanks for the shifter recommendations.  I will lock out reverse on the transmission and use two cables for 1-2 & 3-4 gear selection.  I am ready to weld the firewall in place.  Should the firewall be fully welded or tack welded?  If it is tack welded is there an approved sealant to make it liquid tight?


* Firewall small.jpg (198.18 KB, 804x534 - viewed 167 times.)
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« Reply #71 on: September 16, 2015, 07:22:32 PM »

You might want to put it on tabs and bolt it in.  3M Fire Putty will seal it fine. 
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MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #72 on: September 17, 2015, 08:27:20 AM »

Sum, I haven't found a pic of the shifter install yet.  Imagine your shifter with a normal "ball" on top, rather then a handgrip and your squeeze type 1-2 gear  selector made to pull straight up via a "T" handle (Long sells it this way). Last thing I do is place the car in first gear (engine is running) by reaching in from outside the car while the driver holds the clutch pedal down. Jump in the push truck and off we go.

I found that it was difficult for the driver to do this one (left) handed by himself . and impossible to reach across with with his right  to raise the lockout due to proper arm restraint. It is simply a procedure I put in place and that's how we do it. For drivers, my instruction is clutch out and accelerate, pull, push, pull, chute, shutdown. grin Your squeeze handle type shifter could be made to work this way (and be a lot shorter, too).

vic
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Ron Gibson
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« Reply #73 on: September 17, 2015, 09:34:28 AM »

You could use a Morse cable for the back and forward and a small pneumatic cylinder for the squeeze mechanism with an indicator light to tell you it's in first.

Ron
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« Reply #74 on: September 17, 2015, 12:01:51 PM »

....Last thing I do is place the car in first gear (engine is running) by reaching in from outside the car while the driver holds the clutch pedal down. Jump in the push truck and off we go.....

OK, I see that the driver isn't putting the car into first in your case.  In the lakester the engine/transmission/shifter will also be far behind the driver so what you do could be an option.  I have a couple plans for making it so the driver can select 1st but was interested in how they might compare to what you are doing so thanks for the input.  



In the picture I posted above the transmission has the stock Long Vertical Gate.  I'll replace the lever and pull grip with something I'll make since I don't want to butcher the stock one in case I go to sell it down the road.  Also the reverse lever shown above will be removed,

Sumner
« Last Edit: September 17, 2015, 12:04:59 PM by Sumner » Logged

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