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Author Topic: newbie, motorcycle safety wiring  (Read 3582 times)
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toledoupsguy
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« on: February 18, 2015, 05:06:32 AM »

I just joined the ECTA Sunday, been wanting to do this for a long time now.  Was told it will be about 3 weeks before rule book comes so I thought I'd ask here.  What other than the front axle nut and pinch bolts what else needs to be safety wired?  I'm assuming the cotter pin on the rear axle nut suffices there?

Thanks in advance.
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Joe Timney
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« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2015, 06:59:54 AM »

7.B.15 Wheel Retention:
All axle-retaining nuts, pinch bolts, axle caps and axles shall be safety wired or
otherwise secured by visually verifiable means. Lock washers, self-locking nuts or
thread-locking compounds do not meet this requirement.
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Joe Timney
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toledoupsguy
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« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2015, 07:10:51 AM »

Thank you but I understand that part.  I was trying to ask if anything else has to be safety wired.  Oil filter, oil drain, oil fill, brake banjos or anything else?
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2015, 07:28:13 AM »

You sound really aware of the concerns that might be involved. Remember that rules are only minimums and nobody will ever try to shut you down for over doing safety items. Do what ever you feel might be a concern.  grin grin grin

Pete
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runt13
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« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2015, 12:04:21 PM »

I've been told I over engineer everything! here is a list on what I did safety wire, this is on my 2002 Buell X1 White Lightning [p/pp-1350-4]

1. front axel pinch bolts [4]
2. front caliper mounting bolts [2]
3. transmission drain plug
4. engine drain plug
5. oil filter
6. chain / belt guard mounting bolts
7. shifter pivot bolts, [had one work loose drag racing....]

I did / do use a cotter pin in the front axel nut, and a pin in the rear axel nut.
I use locknuts on everything else, along with red and blue Loctite.

I also duct tape my oil fill plug as well

Everything is checked before the first run and between every run I make, I made a check list that I have memorized but still physically go over it checking everything as I go.

RUNT ''13''
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2012 Wilmington mile
April meet,
p/pp-1350/4 record, 132.601mph

September meet,
p/pp-1350/4 record 139.915mph [bump]
p/pp-1650/4 record 142.364 mph
p/pp-2000/4 record 140.009 mph
p/pp-3000/4 record 144.511 mph

2013 Wilmington mile
July meet,
m/pg-1650/4 record 137.278
m/pg-2000/4 record 136.695

Sept meet,
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2014  Wilmington mile
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p/pp-1340/4 record 142.5855 [bump]
toledoupsguy
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« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2015, 04:46:15 PM »

This is my first every attempt at safety wiring.  Will this pass inspection?

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manta22
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« Reply #6 on: April 20, 2015, 05:57:10 PM »

No-- check out Youtube videos for the proper way to do safety wire. Is that copper wire?

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #7 on: April 20, 2015, 07:40:11 PM »

http://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/chapter_07.pdf

This link should download the FAA safety wire pdf  - See section 7

Search this site for safety wire! You want some .032" stainless steel safety wire.
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toledoupsguy
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« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2015, 04:18:55 AM »

The wire is .032 MIG wire, copper coated mild steel, is that wire a no go?  It looked so easy but my first attempt is sure pathetic.
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2015, 04:52:32 AM »

The normal wire used for safety locking is stainless. It comes in spools and is available in a number of diameters. You`ll find it a lot easier to twist than the mig wire and the smaller diameters are sometimes easier to fit into tight areas. Lock wire is available from aircraft supply outlets and race car parts suppliers. `ve found the aircraft suppliers generally to be more reasonable and have a better stock. I`m supplying a link to give you further info.

http://www.malinco.com/aerospace-wire.html

Pete
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Rick Byrnes
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« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2015, 10:26:55 AM »

Years ago when working at the Ford Gas Turbine Lab, the A & P licensed guys taught me how to wire.  I have always preferred .020" 304 Stainless wire.  Be careful though it will "bite" you. 
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Rick
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« Reply #11 on: April 21, 2015, 01:45:10 PM »

The purpose of the locking wire is to prevent the fastener from turning loose.  Therefore you should have the wire leaving the nut/bolt in the "tighten" direction rather than across the top or in the "loosen" direction.  Got it?  Good luck, and if you're anything like me -- buy the wire in a good-sized hank.  You'll make lots of ties and screw up and clip it off and try again.

Also it's good to have a bunch of 1/16" drills handy because folks that didn't already wire their fasteners will ask to borrow yours.  I always lend out the stuff -- and dang near every time they return the bits even better.  I carry cheapo (foreign) drill bits with me and I get nice fancy (expensive but American) ones back.  Those go into the drill file and I get a net increase in my stock. grin grin
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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« Reply #12 on: April 21, 2015, 04:06:56 PM »

http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,14443.msg262539.html#msg262539
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All models are wrong, but some are useful! G.E. Box (1967) www.designdreams.biz
toledoupsguy
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« Reply #13 on: April 24, 2015, 04:18:00 AM »

Saturday an aircraft mechanic buddy is going to wire them up for me, hopefully he will get it right grin
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The man on the top of the mountain didn't fall there.
2014 zx14r in nuclear sunset black and orange.
Joe Timney
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« Reply #14 on: April 24, 2015, 06:21:46 AM »

Mig wire is -6, it is hard and will crack when twisted...not the best to use.
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Joe Timney
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