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Author Topic: '58 RE Indian MPS-750-PF Build  (Read 21399 times)
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Scottie J
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« Reply #15 on: December 13, 2014, 09:05:03 AM »

Over the last couple of days I've been tracking down everything I need to build a new wiring harness, including a new keyed ignition switch, new brake light switch and a new tethered kill switch.  I had everything lined up, started cutting the holes in the box to run the wires.  Everything was all good and then I went to go start on the harness....  AND the box doesn't fit my other bike.  undecided   I forgot to take into consideration that my "mock up" bike has my the '83 Suzuki swingarm on it that is about 3" longer than the factory RE swingarm.  A minor set back, but at least I now have a battery box built for my Chief when I finally put that bike together.  So I started building another box that actually clears the rear tire for the '58.  Pretty much the same as I already made, except a little bit shorter in height and half as wide (front to back) as the first one.  Not sure if I'm going to make it to the shop this weekend to work on it or not.  I'm supposed to help my friend finish spraying his kitchen cabinets this weekend, so I will just have to see how that plays out.

A couple more pics.




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Scottie J
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« Reply #16 on: December 13, 2014, 09:07:21 AM »

Also, a quick question for the Pros.....  Is there such a class as M-750-PP (production push rod)?  Just curious, as I don't see anything in the 2013 rule/record book.
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Seldom Seen Slim
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« Reply #17 on: December 13, 2014, 09:33:29 AM »

Scottie, forgive my ignorance, but are you aiming for SCTA/USFRA or for the BMST?  Different rules, different classes, different records.  There's lots of knowledge about both systems here, and maybe if you've chosen one or the other -- maybe then you'll get more help and cogent responses. grin
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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Scottie J
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« Reply #18 on: December 13, 2014, 09:54:45 AM »

Sorry, SCTA and BUB is what I'm looking at. SCTA in particular.
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fredvance
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« Reply #19 on: December 13, 2014, 10:13:28 AM »

SCTA class would would be M/PG. Modified production(naked) pushrod Gas.
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Scottie J
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« Reply #20 on: December 13, 2014, 10:22:22 AM »

SCTA class would would be M/PG. Modified production(naked) pushrod Gas.

Ok thank you for that.  Does anyone know what the current record is for this class?
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BHR301
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« Reply #21 on: December 13, 2014, 10:43:35 AM »

SCTA record is 137.872 and the AMA record is 159.903.

Bill
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Scottie J
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« Reply #22 on: December 13, 2014, 11:09:38 AM »

OK, so it still has been broken since 2009.  Thanks!
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Scottie J
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« Reply #23 on: December 15, 2014, 11:19:13 PM »

Worked on the bike some tonight.  Pretty much finished with the new electrical box and seems to fit nicely.  I have all the holes drilled for the wires to run thru and to mount the ignition switch.  Still need to get a larger piece of sheet metal to finish the lid tho.  Also got the new brake light switch installed and and ran wires up to the controls for the headlight and kill switch.











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JimL
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« Reply #24 on: December 16, 2014, 12:52:19 AM »

AMA current record for M-CG (classic gas) is 125+ and the M-CF record remains open.  Your bike/engine would fit into Classic category at the AMA meet ( or M-PG or M-PF.)

  BUB has become AMA "BMST" event.  Same rule book and records as BUB.

Confusing, no? huh
« Last Edit: December 16, 2014, 01:24:21 AM by JimL » Logged
Scottie J
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« Reply #25 on: December 17, 2014, 01:06:57 AM »

Finished making my new electrical box for the Blackhawk!  The box itself is made from 1/8" plate steel and has holes cut in it for a key ignition and wires to run in and out of the box thru rubber grommets.  All connections will be made inside the box except for a couple, but they will be hidden under wire looming. The lid is made out of 16g cold roll steel, and I intentionally bent the sides a little tight so it "snaps" into place.  I will put velcro on the 2 side flanges just as a secondary measure.  I will also glue a small piece of rubber foam to the bottom side of the lid above the battery to secure the battery in place.  I built the box to have minimal clearance for the battery, so after I coat the inside with rubberized undercoating, the whole box will be insulated and have a soft cushion for the battery to rest in.  Tomorrow I will weld a short M6 stud to the inside of the electrical box for a grounding point.  The box itself will ground thru the frame at the mounting points.  Then hopefully after work tomorrow I can get the box painted and officially mount it and finish the wire harness and complete the connections inside the box.








I'm also going to weld two 6M to right side (in this pic) to mount the rectifier.



Also, I spliced in a 3 wire waterproof plug into the brake light harness.  So, any time I need to remove the brake light when I remove the exhaust, I just unplug it!   Smiley


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Koncretekid
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« Reply #26 on: December 17, 2014, 09:53:40 AM »

Nice neat work, Scottie.  But you may need to use more than a velcro strap to hold it down. I know ECTA (I don't have an SCTA rulebook at present) require the battery to be fastened down with a metal strap.  A couple of screws thru your battery box flanges should satisfy that rule.

Your fuse holder looks like one I recently mounted on a Norton Commando;  make sure you have room to actually install the spade connectors, as they add some length to the spades and the wire which protrudes may foul the sides of your box or your battery.

As for wire connectors, I have concluded that no open connection will survive the elements at Bonneville.  I have started (or I'll be rewiring my bike before I go back) using the connectors that have a built in shrink sleeve which contains a hot melt glue.  Then make sure you use dielectric grease when snapping the connections together. (Note that in the following photo, I have not used the above mentioned connectors, but I will be from now on.)

I also noted that you bought a landyard cut off switch.  Make sure it is the proper, i.e. normally closed if you want to run it inline with your ignition circuit, or normally open if you want to short out the points or magneto.

Tom


* Battery box connections.jpg (250.29 KB, 2592x1728 - viewed 111 times.)
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We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!
Scottie J
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« Reply #27 on: December 17, 2014, 11:03:59 AM »

Thanks Tom.  I actually did want to use heat shrink connectors, but Home Depot didn't have any when I bought them.  I haven't done any connections yet, so I may still do that.
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Koncretekid
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« Reply #28 on: December 17, 2014, 11:25:22 AM »

Scottie,
I couldn't find any locally, either, so I ordered these on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380951778202?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

They also sell bullet types as well.
Tom
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We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!
Scottie J
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Age: 39
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« Reply #29 on: December 17, 2014, 10:08:12 PM »

Finished making my new electrical box for the Blackhawk!  The box itself is made from 1/8" plate steel and has holes cut in it for a key ignition and wires to run in and out of the box thru rubber grommets.  All connections will be made inside the box except for a couple, but they will be hidden under wire looming. The lid is made out of 16g cold roll steel, and I intentionally bent the sides a little tight so it "snaps" into place.  I will put velcro on the 2 side flanges just as a secondary measure.  I will also glue a small piece of rubber foam to the bottom side of the lid above the battery to secure the battery in place.  I built the box to have minimal clearance for the battery, so after I coat the inside with rubberized undercoating, the whole box will be insulated and have a soft cushion for the battery to rest in.  Tomorrow I will weld a short M6 stud to the inside of the electrical box for a grounding point.  The box itself will ground thru the frame at the mounting points.  Then hopefully after work tomorrow I can get the box painted and officially mount it and finish the wire harness and complete the connections inside the box.








I'm also going to weld two 6M to right side (in this pic) to mount the rectifier.



Also, I spliced in a 3 wire waterproof plug into the brake light harness.  So, any time I need to remove the brake light when I remove the exhaust, I just unplug it!   Smiley


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