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Author Topic: '58 RE Indian MPS-750-PF Build  (Read 21415 times)
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Old Scrambler
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Going Fast - Slowly




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« Reply #105 on: March 10, 2015, 11:01:14 PM »

All of what the 'Kid' had to say..................and take some mental notes when riding. If the wobble or weave is first felt by you seat and the bars remain steady..........you may have a wheel alignment problem. When riding at speed you might 'test' the bike to see what reaction there is to slightly lowering the weight-center by putting pressure on the foot-pegs.  So far, with two builds accomplished, we have no wobbles............but we spend more time setting the chassis up than tuning the motor grin grin.   
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2011 AMA Record - 250cc M-PG TRIUMPH Tiger Cub - 82.5 mph
2013 AMA Record - 250cc MPS-PG TRIUMPH Tiger Cub - 88.7 mph
2016 AMA Record - 750cc M-CG HONDA CB750 sohc - 130.7 mph
2016 AMA Record - 750cc MPS-CG HONDA CB750 sohc - 137.7 mph
Chasis Builder / Tuner: Dave Murre
Scottie J
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« Reply #106 on: March 11, 2015, 08:56:23 AM »

Thanks guys.  So I'm probably better off leaving the forks and focus my attention on other possible issues?
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Old Scrambler
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« Reply #107 on: March 12, 2015, 08:37:41 PM »

What we're saying is.........don't grab what you THINK is the problem. Start with the basics and eliminate any irregularities. Speed will show a wheel or rim that is not true..........or a tire/tube that is not balanced to the ...nth degree. Burt Munro was so into his motor that he failed to change the original front wheel bearing embarassed   
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2011 AMA Record - 250cc M-PG TRIUMPH Tiger Cub - 82.5 mph
2013 AMA Record - 250cc MPS-PG TRIUMPH Tiger Cub - 88.7 mph
2016 AMA Record - 750cc M-CG HONDA CB750 sohc - 130.7 mph
2016 AMA Record - 750cc MPS-CG HONDA CB750 sohc - 137.7 mph
Chasis Builder / Tuner: Dave Murre
Scottie J
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« Reply #108 on: March 13, 2015, 09:24:37 PM »

Well, then it must be a balance issue.  Everything else in the front end has already been gone over, except for the brake shoes and bearings.  Both of which have been replaced at some point and are fine.
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Scottie J
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« Reply #109 on: May 04, 2015, 06:11:49 AM »

Hey everyone!  Not much going on in my world.  Haven't gotten a lot of work done to the bike as I've been really busy with work.  I hit a financial wall so I started working part time at the Hot Rod shop I worked at 5 years ago to try and save a little bit more money to put towards the new motor.  So currently, I've just been focusing on making it look good, because I can do that for cheap with investing mostly time and little money.  So, Since I last posted, I haven't done much mechanically except for tune the carb and and adjust timing, and have come to the conclusion that I can't get anymore timing out of the bike on pump gas.  I'm only at about 30* BTDC before it starts detonating under load.  I'd like to get the timing back closer to 32-34* BTDC, factory is 32*.  Also, since converting the clutch to a dry set up, it has not slipped one time.  I've gotten the tire to break loose a couple times in a turn, but no clutch slip, so that's good.


Other than that, I recently finished up the paint work on the bike.  I finally paint matched the new seat pan to the gas tank, and then added some hydrographics to the seat cowl and the primary cover.  They didn't come out perfect as I was using an improvised system for the dipping, but they did come out really good and you can't see any of the flaws from over 5' away.  Anyway, here's what she looks like now.   smiley












I plan on adding some perforated sheet metal to the open areas of the primary cover, just haven't decided exactly what I want to do there yet.

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Speed Limit 1000
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« Reply #110 on: May 04, 2015, 07:28:49 AM »

Looking good. Iwill have to stop by and check it out cheers
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John Gowetski, red hat @ 221.183 MPH MSA Lakester, Bockscar #1000 60 ci normally aspirated w/N20
fordboy628
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« Reply #111 on: May 04, 2015, 07:34:23 AM »


So, Since I last posted, I haven't done much mechanically except for tune the carb and and adjust timing, and have come to the conclusion that I can't get anymore timing out of the bike on pump gas.  I'm only at about 30* BTDC before it starts detonating under load.  I'd like to get the timing back closer to 32-34* BTDC, factory is 32*.


Just a thought here.   Don't get hung up on a number goal for total ignition advance.   Use the timing/fuel strength that prevents detonation, OR, run higher octane fuel that will permit more advance AND suppress detonation.

You really don't have any other choices that will not hurt the engine . . . . . .   IMO

 cheers
Fordboy
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I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein
tauruck
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« Reply #112 on: May 04, 2015, 07:47:24 AM »

Hey everyone!  Not much going on in my world.  Haven't gotten a lot of work done to the bike as I've been really busy with work.  I hit a financial wall so I started working part time at the Hot Rod shop I worked at 5 years ago to try and save a little bit more money to put towards the new motor.  So currently, I've just been focusing on making it look good, because I can do that for cheap with investing mostly time and little money.  So, Since I last posted, I haven't done much mechanically except for tune the carb and and adjust timing, and have come to the conclusion that I can't get anymore timing out of the bike on pump gas.  I'm only at about 30* BTDC before it starts detonating under load.  I'd like to get the timing back closer to 32-34* BTDC, factory is 32*.  Also, since converting the clutch to a dry set up, it has not slipped one time.  I've gotten the tire to break loose a couple times in a turn, but no clutch slip, so that's good.


Other than that, I recently finished up the paint work on the bike.  I finally paint matched the new seat pan to the gas tank, and then added some hydrographics to the seat cowl and the primary cover.  They didn't come out perfect as I was using an improvised system for the dipping, but they did come out really good and you can't see any of the flaws from over 5' away.  Anyway, here's what she looks like now.   smiley












I plan on adding some perforated sheet metal to the open areas of the primary cover, just haven't decided exactly what I want to do there yet.



There's a nice piece of stainless steel mesh that comes inside the airbag of most cars. I think it's a backing of sorts. You might find hundreds at the wrecking yard.
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High_On_Octane
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« Reply #113 on: May 04, 2015, 08:29:40 AM »

Yeah, I plan on trying some 106 and see what happens.  I just know she accelerates way faster with a bit more advance and less compression.  So hopefully I just need to bump the octane a bit and be ok.  And again, just running this motor until I can build a new motor with better internals.

1000, the bike is at home now in Aurora, but I'd be happy to show it to you.  Smiley


Tauruk, I have all kinds of blown airbags at work.  Where exactly can I find that mesh?
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High_On_Octane
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« Reply #114 on: May 04, 2015, 08:48:32 AM »

FYI this is actually Scottie, just using my TapaTalk account.  Smiley
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Scottie J
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« Reply #115 on: May 04, 2015, 01:43:08 PM »

Picked up some perforated stainless on lunch and got it sanded and polished.  I think this should work.  Smiley


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Scottie J
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« Reply #116 on: May 05, 2015, 04:47:16 PM »

Got the primary cover finished.  Hopefully it doesn't foul anywhere.


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Scottie J
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« Reply #117 on: May 05, 2015, 06:26:10 PM »

Looks like everything clears just fine.  Smiley


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sofadriver
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« Reply #118 on: May 05, 2015, 11:35:32 PM »

Well, then it must be a balance issue.  Everything else in the front end has already been gone over, except for the brake shoes and bearings.  Both of which have been replaced at some point and are fine.

If you haven't changed to roller bearings in the steering head you should.  They can really make a huge difference and are inexpensive.   Any bearing store should be able to help you.

Wheel alignment is really important, too.  Try this; use two straightedges (I use 8' fluorescent tubes) bungied over the sides of the rear wheel so they run forward past the front wheel.  Adjust your rear wheel until the front tire is centered between the straightedges.  Perfect! (or darn close to it)
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Mike in Tacoma

"aww, what the hell - let's just do it".............

100cc APS/G #833
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