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Author Topic: Sum's Salt Bullet .... Lakester....  (Read 13457 times)
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Sumner
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« Reply #30 on: January 13, 2014, 10:46:23 PM »

Since I am running a G-Force 101A transmission behind the 4 cylinder Atlas motor I needed an adapter between the block and the transmission.  I considered making one but decided age wise I'm running low on time and need to buy some things for the car and not try and make them all.

So I bought an adapter plate ....



.... from Marc in Canada who is on the salt with the Black Opel.  He sells them mainly to people with Atlas 4200 motors (motor was in the TrailBlazer) that want to run GM transmissions behind the motor in other vehicles.  One thing common to the back of the block on the Atlas motors and other GM motors is that the locating dowels for the bellhousing are in the same place in relation to the center of the crank and transmission input shaft.  This does simplify the task if you want to make your own and I explain how on the following page on the site about the adapter plate.......

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar-4/construction%20page-136.html

... and you can find more pictures and info there as always.

There was a small problem in using Marc's adapter on the 2900 engine and it would also hold true for the 5 cylinder motor.  That is...



... they have a balance shaft on each side of the motor where the 6 cylinder 4200 has none.  The balance shafts have covers on them at the back of the block and the cover on the left side was contacting the adapter....



... at the cover and the two bolts as shown above.   The bolts were exchanged  ...



..... for allen head screws and that helped a lot.



Some time in the mill and boring into the adapter slightly from the block side where the lower screw was, took care of it all.  The mill work could of been done with a grinder also



...So now that the adapter is clearanced and mounted I could move onto the SFI bellhousing and mounting it.  That is next.

More info on the above here....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar-4/construction%20page-136.html

I sent Marc a pattern of the cutout and future adapters for the 4 and 5 cylinder engines should be pre-clearanced.  Marc's adapter is a precision made piece that I highly recommend getting and the price is very reasonable.  I have a link to his site on the build page above,

Sum
« Last Edit: January 19, 2014, 08:27:45 PM by SPARKY » Logged

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« Reply #31 on: January 14, 2014, 09:24:08 AM »

For 200 bucks that plate is a steal. Pardon the pun.
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Sumner
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« Reply #32 on: January 14, 2014, 10:45:37 AM »

For 200 bucks that plate is a steal. Pardon the pun.

Yep, one would be crazy to not get one.  Especially since there are so many other time consuming things to do to get one of these cars done.

I actually have a second and might later pull the SBC out of my pickup and put in a 4 with a turbo on it.  Since the pickup is sectioned and tight in the engine compartment now trying to get the 6 in would be a problem.  A 4 with a turbo and 350 to 400 HP would be plenty good for the truck.

If anyone is interested on the 4200 board one of the members there did a nice group of drawings of a 4200 6 and a SBC superimposed on each other that gives you a good idea of the differences in height, width and length,

Sum
« Last Edit: May 09, 2014, 12:31:35 AM by SPARKY » Logged

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« Reply #33 on: January 18, 2014, 06:44:26 PM »

After getting the adapter plate mounted on the back of the block the next step was mounting the bellhousing to it.  The adapter had threaded holes for the bellhousing to attach to but the holes in some places run into the block or part of the block so you can't use longer bolts in them.  At first I cut...



...the heads off of some grade 8 bolts to make studs out of them but didn't really like that.  So after that...



...I found that I could run a tap through the threaded part of the adapter and it would clearance the block with threads like above for a couple of the locations.

A couple other places where there was solid block behind the holes I drilled into the block a ways with a slightly oversize bit so that bolts would just continue past the adapter a slight ways and not hit the block.

One hole....




that was too close to the stud for the starter to drill oversize I drilled undersize to 5/16 and ....



.... ran a tap into it so the bolt would go through the adapter and into the threads and one ....



...I was able to just drill a hole on through the web on the back of the block.  With that done....



...the bellhousing went on with bolts and a couple allen head bolts below the locating dowels.

Then ...



.....I checked the bellhousing for center.  I'll use some .007 offset dowels to get it closer hopefully.

As usual more pictures and info here....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar-4/construction%20page-137.html

Sum
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« Reply #34 on: January 18, 2014, 07:32:35 PM »

It is so nice to have you back on these forums.

No Ruth. He won't forget you.

FREUD
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Sumner
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« Reply #35 on: January 18, 2014, 08:37:23 PM »

It is so nice to have you back on these forums.

No Ruth. He won't forget you.

FREUD

Good to be back and sorry we can't make your NW Reunion....

http://bonnevillenwreunion.com/

You guys have a great time.  I'd of liked to of been there to hear...



... that young guy above speak  smiley  I'll bet it will be a fun time for all,

Sumner and Ruth
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« Reply #36 on: January 19, 2014, 11:03:51 AM »

Sumner, why do these engines use hollow dowell pins instead of the solid pins like all the older Chevrolet engines both big block and small block?
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« Reply #37 on: January 19, 2014, 11:38:05 AM »

Sumner, why do these engines use hollow dowell pins instead of the solid pins like all the older Chevrolet engines both big block and small block?



The block side of the dowel pin hole is threaded.  Marc told me that with the stock GM engine/transmission they have a bolt form the transmission bell through the dowel into those threads to suck the two together.  He has some concern about bolting the trans. only to the adapter and not also into the block.  The adapter is held on with 10 bolts to the block so I feel that it is a very solid install to the block and the transmission bolts to the adapter in the normal SBC/BBC manner as you pointed out.

I will be installing solid off-set pins so won't be able to use the threaded holes.  You might be able to, especially with an auto.

Still  on the right side...



... where the mount is below the pin I'll probably run the bolt into and through the adapter and through that hole in block web and put a nut on the other side and maybe run a bolt on the other side through the adapter into a threaded hole in the back of the block.  That might be a good backup for a street driven vehicle, but for a race vehicle where you are taking things apart frequently probably overkill.

When do you get your 4200 for your pickup?  Are you going to make your adapter or buy one from Marc?  I'd recommend buying one but also know your spending habits  evil,

Sum
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« Reply #38 on: January 19, 2014, 07:31:53 PM »

Sumner, I should get the engine this coming Friday or the following Monday. Would you want to sell me the second adapter that you have? Or should I go to Marc?
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« Reply #39 on: January 19, 2014, 07:59:19 PM »

Sumner, I should get the engine this coming Friday or the following Monday. Would you want to sell me the second adapter that you have? Or should I go to Marc?

I'm still toying with putting one of the 4's in the pickup with a turbo on it so want to keep the adapter at this point.  Now saying that I don't need it now so if he doesn't have any right now it is yours and you could replace it later,

Sum
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« Reply #40 on: February 04, 2014, 01:44:52 PM »

Very nice work! I look forward to more posts on the install. This will all be helpful to us in the future wink

Wade
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« Reply #41 on: May 08, 2014, 07:39:59 PM »

Recently I posted that Marsh Racing Wheels has some other centers they can use if you are looking for more backspacing on their 15 inch wheels.  Jim Cosgrove, the driver of the Das Bullet lakester asked me the other day for more info on them.

I received two of the wheels yesterday and took some pictures for him but decided to go ahead and post them on my site and here as they might help someone else also.  You can find more pictures and info about the wheels on my site here....

http://1fatgmc.com/car/14-lakester-1/construction%20page-141.html

They have about 4 1/8 inch of backspacing, about 1 1/4 inch more than the wheels I recently bought for the back of the car since I was removing the Datsun chain drive rear and the wheels I had for it and going to a GM 7 1/2 with Ford tubes and axles, thus needing 5 on 4 1/2 wheels.  The wheels I just received with the optional center with increased backspacing will decrease my scrub radius to about 1 inch.



Above is a picture that has on the left the wheels I recently bought for the rear with the maximum backspacing for that style center and the wheels that arrived yesterday with the optional center.

Another view of the ...



....back side of both wheels and as I mentioned before more pictures and info here...

http://1fatgmc.com/car/14-lakester-1/construction%20page-141.html

Sum
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« Reply #42 on: February 11, 2015, 12:17:14 AM »

Hey Sum, Happy Birthday my friend.   cheers

  Don
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« Reply #43 on: February 11, 2015, 12:42:10 AM »

Wow ---Sum are you still having those things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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« Reply #44 on: February 11, 2015, 04:24:45 AM »

All the best Sum. Here's wishing you a great year.  cheers cheers cheers

Pete
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