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Author Topic: Salt Flash. A Bonneville Beezer.  (Read 40921 times)
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Briz
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« Reply #105 on: March 18, 2015, 03:25:41 PM »

Yeah, I saw those magnetic heaters. Cant use them on ours as there are no steel parts on the engine or oiltank! All aluminum.
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manta22
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« Reply #106 on: March 18, 2015, 03:29:25 PM »

FB;

We've discussed this subject before so you might search the topics.

Basically the problem with those types of heaters is twofold--

1. the 12V heaters don't put out a lot of heat without drawing lots of current from your battery/alternator

2. AC line voltage cartridge heaters put out much more heat but the watt density overheats the oil that is in direct contact with the oil.

A better approach is to use a pad heater like those made by Minco or Watlow Electric. These spread the heat over a wide area of the oil tank wall and do not damage the oil while heating the contents. They are made in various voltages, wattages, and sizes. Some are silicone runner and others are Kapton film insulated.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #107 on: March 18, 2015, 03:32:06 PM »

Yeah, I saw those magnetic heaters. Cant use them on ours as there are no steel parts on the engine or oiltank! All aluminum.

These aren't "magnetic heaters"-- they have a resistance element (nichrome wire) inside the coils. They have wound coils simply to keep the overall size smaller, such as dipping it into a coffee or tea cup to heat the water. Nothing fancy.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #108 on: March 18, 2015, 04:03:39 PM »

Back in the "dark ages" when I raced sidecars in Europe (always cold weather unlike here at my now home in CA. and AZ.) we used the stove top (also to make a cup of coffee and tea) to preheat the Castrol R "bean oil" and then put it in the oil tank..............worked just fine.........but I am certain in this "modern age" there are better ways to preheat oil................Ah...Yes, the good old days.....................at 78 living in the past....but still alive...
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manta22
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« Reply #109 on: March 18, 2015, 04:26:28 PM »

Bak189;

Sidecar racing is in a league by itself. In 1963 I travelled to Berlin on leave and saw a sidecar race on the old AVUS circuit-- cold, rainy, but there they went around the steep banked turn....the fastest bikes went up on the yellow line!

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ


* Avus- Banking 2- May 63a.jpg (78.72 KB, 800x519 - viewed 160 times.)
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Briz
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« Reply #110 on: March 18, 2015, 06:14:08 PM »

Yeah, I saw those magnetic heaters. Cant use them on ours as there are no steel parts on the engine or oiltank! All aluminum.

These aren't "magnetic heaters"-- they have a resistance element (nichrome wire) inside the coils. They have wound coils simply to keep the overall size smaller, such as dipping it into a coffee or tea cup to heat the water. Nothing fancy.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Neil, I was referring to the magnetic oil pan and diff heaters that Fordboy was talking about in the previous post.

FB;
Basically the problem with those types of heaters is twofold--

1. the 12V heaters don't put out a lot of heat without drawing lots of current from your battery/alternator

A better approach is to use a pad heater like those made by Minco or Watlow Electric. These spread the heat over a wide area of the oil tank wall and do not damage the oil while heating the contents. They are made in various voltages, wattages, and sizes. Some are silicone runner and others are Kapton film insulated.

I was thinking more of plugging into the support vehicle rather than using the bikes electrical system.
I'll look into these pad heaters too, thanks.
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« Reply #111 on: March 18, 2015, 08:00:51 PM »

FB;

We've discussed this subject before so you might search the topics.

Basically the problem with those types of heaters is twofold--

1. the 12V heaters don't put out a lot of heat without drawing lots of current from your battery/alternator

2. AC line voltage cartridge heaters put out much more heat but the watt density overheats the oil that is in direct contact with the oil.

A better approach is to use a pad heater like those made by Minco or Watlow Electric. These spread the heat over a wide area of the oil tank wall and do not damage the oil while heating the contents. They are made in various voltages, wattages, and sizes. Some are silicone runner and others are Kapton film insulated.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Neil,

I remember your comments from prior to Speed Week 2014.

The mag heaters are 120v, run off an aux generator while we are in line.    It was a cobbled together system that provided some heat where there was none before.    Chris will need to do something else for the next go round because the "new" engine is all alloy.

Since the heaters were NOT in direct contact with the fluids, there was no danger of localized overheating.

The next permutation will probably be 120v Wattlow pads, or the like, still using the 120v generator.    But with a better plug'n'run requirement.

Thanks for the thoughts.

Briz, sorry for the thread hi-jack.   I'll buy you a cold one if we meet up on the Salt in 2016.   And a cold one for you too Neil.
 cheers cheers
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« Reply #112 on: March 19, 2015, 11:30:23 AM »

FB;

Back in the Can-Am days we plugged in a patch heater that was on the outside of the M8C dry sump oil tank and let it run overnight. In the morning the oil was nice and hot. I forget the wattage but it was probably around 100W. Since AC outlets on the salt are hard to come by this may not be an option.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #113 on: March 19, 2015, 01:56:10 PM »

On the subject of (oil) heating:  I have used a battery heater for heating many things.  You might not be able to find one unless you live in a pretty cold climate.

It's pretty much a heating pad (like for your sore muscle) that's about the width of the battery's height and covered with a crud and acid-proof material.  Wrap it around the battery and tie-wrap it in place (the entire thing is about 2' long) and then plug it into 120VAC.  Not lots of watts, but it keeps the battery way warmer than ambient - and the engine cranks much faster with the warm battery.  I don't know if it gets to 150F or whatever you might want for the oil, but it sure as heck will get the cold morning oil warmed a good part of the way to where you want it before a run.

Try an auto parts store or an old--style hardware store - or maybe a farm supply store.
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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« Reply #114 on: March 19, 2015, 02:33:08 PM »

Briz,
try any of the go-faster guys from drag racing. Ask for a nitrous bottle heater kit.
Runs off 12VDC and will heat a 5lb nitrous bottle to 60*C in about 20 minutes.

HTH
Neil
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« Reply #115 on: March 19, 2015, 03:04:29 PM »

Thats a thought too....cheers.

We've often thought what would have happened if speedweek last year hadn't been rained off. How would it have run?
Well, I think the turbo would have seized somewhere into the first run!
We got the new turbo today...took the old one off to find a twisted ribbon of metal protruding from the exhaust. Took the pipes off and it was clear what it was; the exhaust sealing rings had disintegrated! all 3 of them. Another pull on the dyno last week and it would have been in the turbo. How in hell do you predict something like that? We wont be using that type of seal again!


New & old turbos:


« Last Edit: August 05, 2015, 04:09:10 PM by Briz » Logged

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« Reply #116 on: March 20, 2015, 07:51:44 PM »

Back in the day, the crew used to pre-heat the castor oil (not Castrol) on a stove and add it just before engine start.

What days?
1914 BMW biplane...
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« Reply #117 on: March 20, 2015, 10:05:58 PM »

My boys heat up their field rations with something that uses a chemical reaction instead of fire.  This weekend I will talk to them and ask about it. 
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