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Author Topic: BMMP/C Ranger  (Read 7172 times)
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tauruck
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« Reply #15 on: April 27, 2013, 02:12:07 AM »

I was planning on using the crimp connectors with the built in heat shrink for most connections, but may have to solder a connection like that one where multiple lines are going into one line. Stainless, is there a solder you can get that has similar elasticity to copper?? I found the heat shrink you are talking about on McMaster-Carr, thanks for the advice!  cheers

Wobbly, I'm not going to be using any tape on this harness, hate the stuff with a passion! haha What I will be using is a "self wrapping split braided sleeve" from Pegasus Racing for abrasion resistance, and a heat reflective flexible metallic convoluted tubing from McMaster-Carr for any areas where heat will be a problem. Will be better than factory when I'm done  grin

Looks like Ford jokes are inescapable... lol  tongue
Yup, I've been on the receiving end for years. I thought I'd just get your blood going a bit. grin Go Ford or go home. cheers
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93SVT5.0TT
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« Reply #16 on: April 27, 2013, 12:57:26 PM »

Thanks for the link Tman! Good selection of switches there.

Cheers on the Blue Oval!  cheers


Tristan
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93SVT5.0TT
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« Reply #17 on: May 12, 2013, 12:40:12 PM »

So over the last couple weeks I have ran the main feeder line to my garage, so now I have power for my air compressor, welder and plasma cutter. Let the games begin!  evil

So I have the heads off and I'm going to polish the combustion chambers. Here I duct taped the face of the head so if I slip its no problem.


Removed the valves with one of those junky screw type spring compressors.... kind of a drawback living in a smallish city, can't get the right tools without ordering online.  rolleyes


chambers partially polished


here's a fully polished chamber, I'm not going so far as to mirror shine them, a rotary diamond file will do a good enough job for this build.


Before I pulled my engine apart a heard a slight ticking, and I thought it was the lifters. I adjusted the lifters a couple times, but it made no difference. Checked the lifters when I pulled them, and all seems well. (they are comp cams hydraulic rollers.) but I may have found the cause of the ticking here.  cheers


2 exhaust valves have some galling on the stem, both were on the same bank. Will have to get replacements and new guides..


so now I'm on to deburring some parts of the block, and opening up the coolant passages where there is restriction to flow. I expect it's hot in Bonneville...  cool

Will post more soon.  smiley

Tristan
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tauruck
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« Reply #18 on: May 12, 2013, 05:44:20 PM »

You're getting there Tristan. Keep at it. cheers
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« Reply #19 on: May 12, 2013, 07:31:21 PM »

When I still was working at Montana Power we used the liquid electrical tape for all kinds of wet connections and also heat shrinks with a liquid inside that melted at high temperature. Either way works well but I preferred the heat shrinks, just dont overheat them or shrink them too fast with high heat
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93SVT5.0TT
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« Reply #20 on: May 14, 2013, 11:39:18 PM »

Plenty left, Mike, as you know with your project  cheers

mt, McMaster Carr has some adhesive sealing heat shrink that sound like what you are talking about. I'll make sure to get a heat gun, so I don't shrink them too fast, thanks for the advice!  smiley
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tauruck
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« Reply #21 on: May 15, 2013, 09:22:02 AM »

Wiring will drive one nuts. i don't know a thing about electrical. I'm good at taking directions though. I rewired my F2 car by taking one wire off at a time and replacing. Neatest job ever. grin I admire you guys that know electrical.
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manta22
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« Reply #22 on: May 15, 2013, 11:59:42 AM »

Wiring will drive one nuts. i don't know a thing about electrical. I'm good at taking directions though. I rewired my F2 car by taking one wire off at a time and replacing. Neatest job ever. grin I admire you guys that know electrical.

It helps to have had amateur radio as a hobby when you were a kid and to have built lots of Heathkits.  cool

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Seldom Seen Slim
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« Reply #23 on: May 15, 2013, 12:35:03 PM »

All right, the hijack continues for at least one post.  I built a bunch of Heathkits, too -- partly because the factory was about 15 miles from where I lived and I could go get either factory pricing and/or "defective" units or best -- "demo" models that were factory assembled.  I enjoyed building them -- great instructions and fun to do.  I remember building a color television for someone that wanted it.  I got to have the fun without having to actually use the set.  I don't remember hearing back from that guy, so the TV must have worked pretty well. 

Yes, Heathkits were good training.  I wish today's assemble-it-yourself thingies were so well designed and had such good step-by-step instructions.

Hijack over for me, at least.

Jon a/k/a WA8GDW
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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desotoman
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« Reply #24 on: May 15, 2013, 04:44:35 PM »

Wiring will drive one nuts. i don't know a thing about electrical. I'm good at taking directions though. I rewired my F2 car by taking one wire off at a time and replacing. Neatest job ever. grin I admire you guys that know electrical.

If you don't mind different colored wires find as many different colors as you can that are available. If you are stuck on having only one color, they sell wire  numbers that Electricians use, put same number on each end of wire and keep a record of where each numbered wire goes.

Tom G.
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Asking questions is one's only way of getting answers. As a young boy I was always taught that there is no such thing as a stupid question. It suggests that the quest for knowledge includes failure, and that just because one person may know less than others they should not be afraid to ask rather than pretend they already know. In many cases multiple people may not know but are too afraid to ask the "stupid question"; the one who asks the question may in fact be doing a service to those around them.
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« Reply #25 on: May 22, 2013, 11:50:40 PM »

Well I don't know what a Heathkit is, but I will be re-using the factory wire, so it will stay color coded. Smiley

Went to the US border to pick up some parts this weekend;

SFI Bellhousing


Racing seat (will keep the street seats for around town)


Also picked up the roll cage, hood pins, main girdle, pushrod guide plates, ARP rod bolts, steering u-joints (so I can clear the turbo headers), a washable oil filter, and a couple wicked impact wrenches.

More importantly, I fired up the TIG for the first time this weekend!  evil

humble beginnings  embarassed


but improving with each weld


This is the beginning of the obligatory welding cart that is every person's first welding project lol


I will post the Solidworks model and the real thing when it is done  cheers

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« Reply #26 on: September 27, 2013, 09:47:43 PM »

Hey all, been awhile since the last update, was in eastern Europe for a few weeks, traveling for work for a few weeks, and have been building for a few weeks. So since last time:

I finished the welding cart


Stripped the interior


Received my roll cage kit


Filled the box of the truck with various planned parts  tongue


Welded on the anti-pierce plates. This took a long time, because of the different thickness between the plate and the floor of the truck


Fit up the new seat


Turbos! I disassembled them to an extent to replace some of the fasteners with higher quality pieces. Still waiting on some fasteners to finish the job. Has anyone used Nord-Lock washers before? I got some for this project and man they kick as5!!


here is the block off plate and v-band flange I had made up. I have to convert these turbos from internal to external wastegate, so these plates are needed.


rear hoop tacked in place


these are some footpegs for a buddies V-max that I welded. The TIG skills are getting better through practice.


Engine back from machine shop


getting ready to weld the v-band flanges to the block off plates


clean parts


in the box you can see some hose I got from McMaster Carr for the vacuum system. I am going to try to use the quick push-connect fittings and manifolds that are commonplace in robotics for the vacuum system. The 5.0 Ford has main vacuum takeoff underneath the manifold and it's a huge PITA! So my plan is to route those to a common manifold with the push-lock fittings. Never seen it done on a car before, so should be interesting to see if it holds up to the heat and vibration.


Almost finished block offs. Sent them to my co-workers machine shop to face them, as the welding has a tendency to pull the plate out of shape. I was surprised how much considering the plate is 1/2" and I didn't pour a ton of heat into the weld.


here you can see the compressor side of the turbo with the hole for the internal wastegate.


Block off plates resting on the turbo. I drilled holes to dowel the plate for perfect alignment of the exhaust orifice.


TURBO


I polished the stock valve covers years ago, and now I'm going a different direction with the look. This is a "before" pic...... stay tuned!  cheers

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tauruck
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« Reply #27 on: September 30, 2013, 11:08:45 PM »

Looking good. From the cart to the truck you've done nice work. Good to see you're back at it.
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« Reply #28 on: October 03, 2013, 09:07:14 PM »

Thanks Mike! How's the other side of the world this time of year?
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javajoe79
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« Reply #29 on: October 07, 2013, 09:23:53 AM »

Where did you get the cage kit from? You probably read the rule book in regards to the cage but was just checking. I would assume it would be a custom kit to abide by the SCTA rules?
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