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Author Topic: BMMP/C Ranger  (Read 7148 times)
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93SVT5.0TT
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« on: April 21, 2013, 08:56:52 PM »

So this is my 93 Ranger 5.0. I have had this truck for over 10 years now, as it was my first vehicle. It's mostly been a street/strip/show vehicle over it's life, and was a daily driver for me in high school. I don't want it to become a dedicated racer, I love driving it on the street too.

About the combo.

It's a 93 Splash, 3" lowering beams in the front, 4.5" lower in the back via flipped axle. That setup is an 8.8 from an '01 Explorer, so it has limited slip, 3.73 gears, disc brakes, and 31 spline axles where most 8.8's have 28 splines. The engine is a 5.0 from an '89 mustang. I'm in the process of added twin turbos to the setup, along with the prep's for Speed Week 2014. There's too much to list about the engine, but let's just say I'm hoping to limit it at 425 rwhp, so I don't crack the block. Eventually I will get a Dart/Boss block and set it up properly, but I'm not made of money!  tongue The trans is a T5 from a 91 mustang.

I have a cardomain page for it too if anyone wants to see more pics of it all put together before I started this twin turbo project. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/217533/1993-ford-ranger-regular-cab/

To the pics... oh and sorry for the junky iphone quality, everything from this post forward will be better.  undecided

This was about a year ago, when I first started pulling things apart

With the Trick Flow upper intake off. Note the mess of wiring.

With the heater core removed, this side of the engine bay opens up nicely.

Dash removed, can see the ignition box.

My box full of turbo and interior parts

The lesser seen side of the dash, there is some opportunity for weight removal here. I will probably upgrade to an aftermarket or custom built dash in the future, but I had to remove that from my scope of work for the time being.

This is your brain on EFI. I'm planning on almost completely re-doing the engine wiring, as the fella who did the engine swap before I owned the truck decided to leave in the ranger engine harness.  huh

...and this is your brain on drugs.  rolleyes Finding this kind of thing in my wiring harness makes my brain want to explode. This connection was taped over.

Gots ta love Autosol! cheesy This is an MSD alternator, 160 amp. Good little unit, got it before they started making everything in china.

With the fenders and inner fenders removed. Not sure yet if I will run inner fenders or not...

No wiring mess cleans it up a bit

An old battery box I'm going to clean up. Will be moving the battery to the box.

Lower intake removed. The plan is to tear down the engine, and spend a bit of time making the block stronger and improve the coolant flow a bit.

Valvetrain. Comp lifters and roller fulcrum rockers. The cam has plenty of lift for a stock headed 5.0, so I stuck with 1.6 ratio rockers.

Stock E7 heads, I put in 1.94/1.54" valves a few years back and also did a bit of hand porting. I don't have flow numbers  sad So this time around I'm just going to polish the combustion chamber pockets to reduce pre-ignition tendency.

With the heads off, getting ready to pull it.

Hey look, motor mounts

big mess

more of the same

the short block on the stand

bottom end of the short block. Turns out that's a Melling M-68HV on there, bonus!  cheers


Well hey that's about it for now, thanks for checking it out!  smiley

Stay tuned for progress updates, and let me know if you have any questions/comments!

Tristan
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2013, 11:11:01 PM »

Tristan, it might be a good idea to clean up those wire ends and solder everything together before you tape it up.  It looks like this truck is not all Ranger but it is all Ford. 
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tauruck
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« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2013, 01:47:19 AM »

They say if you can't take a joke don't buy a Ford grin. Go for it man.
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Stainless1
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Robert W. P. "Stainless" Steele Wichita, Kansas



« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2013, 08:39:17 AM »

We used to solder stuff all the time, on cars and airplanes... but a good crimp will last longer in a vibration environment.  Solder will make  the copper brittle, just be careful not to over crimp.  If you can find heat shrink with internal glue (military grade) it will seal the connection from salt corrosion.
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
93SVT5.0TT
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« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2013, 11:13:41 AM »

I was planning on using the crimp connectors with the built in heat shrink for most connections, but may have to solder a connection like that one where multiple lines are going into one line. Stainless, is there a solder you can get that has similar elasticity to copper?? I found the heat shrink you are talking about on McMaster-Carr, thanks for the advice!  cheers

Wobbly, I'm not going to be using any tape on this harness, hate the stuff with a passion! haha What I will be using is a "self wrapping split braided sleeve" from Pegasus Racing for abrasion resistance, and a heat reflective flexible metallic convoluted tubing from McMaster-Carr for any areas where heat will be a problem. Will be better than factory when I'm done  grin

Looks like Ford jokes are inescapable... lol  tongue
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gkabbt
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« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2013, 11:19:23 AM »

Tristan,
Looking good so far!  cheers
As I posted before, let me know if I can help with anything.

Gregg
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Stainless1
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Robert W. P. "Stainless" Steele Wichita, Kansas



« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2013, 02:40:02 PM »

Tristan, there are actually barrel crimps that will work for situations like that, the key is the right crimper and finding the barrels.  When I put the Motec in the lakester last year I had to improvise on a couple of them but I'll let you know if they worked out OK in about 10 years  grin
Don't know of a solder that will stay flexible as the wire, there are things that require solder, those are the connections that seem to fail when you need them most...  shocked

Everyone hates tape, but we still use it here and there  cheers
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2013, 05:20:05 PM »

Thanks Gregg, will do!  cheers

Rob, I found some 3 and 4 way ring terminal style crimps. I suppose I could use regular ring terminals and rivet them together haha

you mean you don't inspect your wiring harness between seasons??  tongue

I would imagine the tough part is simulating the intense desert heat during testing...

Tristan


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« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2013, 08:06:08 PM »

Tristan, there are actually barrel crimps that will work for situations like that, the key is the right crimper and finding the barrels.  When I put the Motec in the lakester last year I had to improvise on a couple of them but I'll let you know if they worked out OK in about 10 years  grin
Don't know of a solder that will stay flexible as the wire, there are things that require solder, those are the connections that seem to fail when you need them most...  shocked

Everyone hates tape, but we still use it here and there  cheers


     Anybody ever try Permatex "liquid tape" from a can to seal electrical connections and joints for protection against corrosion?  Any long term result conclusions good or bad?

                       Ed
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Stainless1
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« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2013, 08:10:54 PM »


Rob, I found some 3 and 4 way ring terminal style crimps. I suppose I could use regular ring terminals and rivet them together haha

you mean you don't inspect your wiring harness between seasons??  


Tristan, take a 12 gauge terminal, cut the ring end off, and you have a wire splice crimp for multiple wires, be sure to file the sharp parts
If I had an x-ray machine I could look at it under the shrink... we shrink over connections on switches, have multiple layers where wires join a bundle...
Everything works in the shop, the electrical gremlins appear on the salt, last year Pork Pie was running for his 200 MPH back up run when the shifter solenoid quit.... worked fine until it could cause the greatest impact  undecided
That's racing on the salt
If it was easy everybody would be doing it  cheers
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2013, 08:26:25 PM »

For some extra-critical connections I use liquid electrical tape.  And it does work.  For instance, the thermocouple for our hot tub spends 100% of the time under water in 100++F water.  The first one died in a few weeks.  The second one - when I remembered to use the liquid tape - has been fine for over a year.  It's non-repairable, so you'd best use it on something that's going to stay permanent.
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Jon E. Wennerberg
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93SVT5.0TT
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« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2013, 09:46:18 PM »

My mustang harness had a bunch of that liquid electrical tape. I hated every minute of taking it apart, but I must admit that the copper underneath looked pretty good. It might be a good thing to put in the hauler for race day, but I will try to use heat shrink only I think. How many of you guys have regretted a 'permanent' change/fix/etc on race day? As Rob was saying, Mr. Murphy rears his head at the worst possible time.  tongue

I like the ring terminal idea, Rob. My 2nd favorite web site, McMaster-Carr, also has butt connectors with different sized ends. Many ways to make it professional.  grin
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« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2013, 10:36:14 PM »

    Thanks to everybody for the feedback on the tape out of a can. I recently picked up a can of Permatex, figured it might be easier to dab into tight spots than trying to get a wrap of tape around them.  I haven't used it all that much so far so can't honestly offer any valid results yet.

     I'll admit to far more than my share of regrets much later about using the latest "trick of the day" for quick and easy fixes.  One big reason for me adding "long term" to my results question, I'll be considering the permanent factor more now in my decisions to use it.

                        Ed
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93SVT5.0TT
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« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2013, 12:08:41 PM »

So the bike guys out there may be familiar with RB Racing. I found a great article on their web site that shows how to do a professional wiring harness (ie: Formula 1 quality) that they have used on Harley's at Bonneville. This was exactly the kind of thing I had in mind. I will cheap out a little bit on it, though!

Ed, they use a 1 part epoxy in areas where a shrink sleeve isn't practical or just can't be used. They also have links to suppliers in the article.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

Tristan
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« Reply #14 on: April 26, 2013, 01:34:43 PM »

Good site, thanks for the link.  Here is a favorite supplier of mine for wiring supplies.

http://www.waytekwire.com/products/
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